stantheman1

Yeah, I think it was just the 1.0 litre mk 1's that had plastic dipsticks.

Hi Edwin Is it possible for you to remove the fog light from the bumper, if so remove the filament lamp and use warm air from a hair drier to remove the moisture that has collected, depending on the severity of the condensation you could be there a while. Also check that the seal on the lamp holder is tight and secure when fitted to the fog light. As an alternative you could try drying out the fog light on the vehicle by warming the 'glass' area with the lamp and connector disconnected, be careful not to heat the 'glass' area too much as I think it's made of plastic and not in fact glass (I could be wrong).

The genuine Heko's that I fitted to ours came with spring metal clips (no self adhesive tape) each deflector came in a sealed bag and packed together in a box. They look very neat and compact compared to the ones Toyota supply.

I highly recommend the Heko wind deflectors, they look great and are easy to fit. Not sure I know what you mean about the "out of box condition" and "missing parts" as they should be new and complete unless otherwise stated.

There's an approx 10% error built in when comparing to gps on all the Yaris's that we've owned or driven and in my opinion is deliberate by the manufacturer and not a fault. You will have to factor in the new error percentage when using different wheel rim sizes. I have yet to come across a setting in Techstream allowing the speedo to be recalibrated but that's not to say there isn't one.

The IPA solution will help to wash away the loose particles it comes into contact with, it is difficult to know if everywhere has been targeted but like I mentioned previously it will only return a few months later. The added advantage of using IPA is that it will neutralise 100% of the harmful bacteria that resides there as it contains 99.99% alcohol). I have also used the foam cleaners and found those to be very messy, these types tend to leave behind a residue which acts as a barrier trapping debris and bacteria, these foam type cleaners also claim to kill bacteria (the ones that I have tried did not mention how much of the bacteria it destroys) so it's down to personal preference. Pouring or spraying anything down the air vents doesn't sit comfortable with me.

See link for spec, other manufacturers or websites maybe cheaper. https://www.ebid.net/uk/for-sale/wurth-air-conditioning-disinfectant-spray-cleaner-300ml-can-175151093.htm?from=googleshop_uk&adwords=Y&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh5-8_46s5wIVTLTtCh23zQ0MEAkYBiABEgIkm_D_BwE

Why would they think the reg is wrong? (Genuine question, just intrigued!)

Don't bother with the foam cleaners, they're far too messy, the best and easiest way is to use Isopropyl (IPA) sprayed or pumped (via an extension tube) up the rubber drain tube and deep into the casing where the evaporator is located, have small tub ready to catch the product and debris as you extract the straw/tube. There wont be a lot of debris and the dusting will only return a couple of months later in any case.The IPA will not only wash out the loose particles but will sanitise the ac system far more effectively than any foam cleaner imo. The drain tube can be found under the carpet on the far right hand side of the passenger side foot well near the centre console/ bulkhead.

I would agree with that statement also, I'm not sure they even offer a diesel variant out there.

Corrosion of the (aluminium) ac system.

Not forgetting the 1.0 and 1.8 variants.

Faulty starter solenoid perhaps?

Also be open minded, don't rule out an air leak!

Incorrect! there are two motors in the washer tank, one for the front and one for the rear.