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stantheman1

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stantheman1 last won the day on May 18 2020

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About stantheman1

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  • First Name
    Steven
  • Toyota Model
    yaris
  • Toyota Year
    2007
  • Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. I think he'll be more than happy with just a simple 'like' or 'thanks' by clicking the button at the bottom of his reply box. 🙂
  2. Ha, ha, glad you got it sorted! I did enquire as to where Bob (flash22) was as this was just 'right up his street', in my second post to you. If he can't sort it then nobody can! Well done Bob!
  3. It sounds like the coil pack rubber boot is tracking to earth, is it dirty, damaged or discoloured in any way? Any pictures? Did you manage to get any freeze frame data when it started to misfire?
  4. Check the battery terminals for corrosion and that they're not loose, also check the ground cable from the battery -ve to the chassis to the engine, and as above make sure the connections are tight and free from corrosion,
  5. I would visually check all the electrical connections to sensors etc to see if there's any sign of corrosion, a spray of contact cleaner will help tremendously, I would also check the connections of the ecu as well.
  6. DTC's are diagnostic trouble codes and as there aren't any then there won't be any data in the freeze frame to show. When the check engine light is on then the data can be viewed. Bank 1 Sensor 1 will be the pre cat oxygen sensor (the yaris has only one bank).
  7. I would just stick it down with 'tiger seal', it's far better than duct tape and silicone sealant, you can buy this from Halfords but it's much cheaper online.
  8. They very rarely fail unless they've been subject to heat and moisture. If the error code is still there then pull the freeze frame data to see what when wrong.
  9. Hi Terry Just hook up the scan tool to your car and go through the various menu options until you see freeze frame, there will only be data if a fault is present. Good luck, let us know how you get on.
  10. The idle speed seems to be rather high approx 1400rpm especially when the engine coolant temperature is at normal operating temp and therefore the maf readings are meaningless, at idle it should read appro. 1.3g/s. The fuel trims looked good at times. The best info you could provide is the freeze frame data when a fault occurs, that way we'll be able to see the relevant info. Don't clear the codes until you have saved/recorded the data. There's no harm in cleaning the maf sensor (provided you do it correctly as not cause any damage to it) but I very much doubt that'll fix your issue as your fuel trims look good.
  11. Silly question but have you removed the childproof sticker from the new battery?
  12. ....Not only that but your fuel graphs would be way out. You've probably just disturbed it by getting to the injectors, try the connector again.
  13. The P0100 code may be just down to disturbing the sensor connection, make sure it's 'fully home', so that you hear that resounding 'click'. As above, is the car running okay now?
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