stantheman1

You've got to wonder why the fuse had blown in the first place and if no one's been messing then chances are it'll go again as fuses just don't blow for no reason.Prime candidate imo would then be the fuel pump as the current draw would be considerably higher if it was faulty..(Not sure on how much current is drawn by the seat belt restraint system and the power used by any of the warning lights will be minuscule.)

Not enough info. Are you parked outside in the open air or in an enclosed space or garage? Is the ventilation system in the 'on' mode? Is the exhaust leaking/blowing? Does this only happen when it's breezy or windy?

It maybe different in other countries, where are you based?

Powered via the ignition I'm afraid!

Costco sell Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 for approx. £30 each all year round.👍

That's what i suspected all along! (#11) Thanks for posting back your solution which could help others in the future when using the search function. 👍

There's a place in Leeds that carry out custom stainless exhaust systems for approx. £350! So I would imagine they would be a similar price nearer you.

It may be that it's just the gasket that' s leaking but you'll soon find out once it's removed, ebay have a few pre owned ones for sale! Thanks for posting and please update us with your findings.

I would call that no. 4 cylinder. Can you see any cracks in the plastic inlet manifold? Also what are you showing us in the picture?

As others have enquired "what is the actual fault code"? The carb cleaner is for checking for vacuum leaks that are not clearly visible, vacuum leaks can cause the engine to run poor at idle, a quick and simple way to check is to spray carb cleaner around and along the vacuum hoses/pipes and if there's a change in idle speed means you've located the loose or broken line.

No timing belt it uses a chain and highly unlikely that this is your problem. Do you have any carb cleaner to hand?

Check for vacuum leaks.

Should be approx. 12.9 to 14.1 volts, 15 volts is too high and eventually will damage the battery.

A dedicated battery tester will test your battery amongst other things for 'cold cranking amps' status, it compares the spec on the battery with the actual output your battery is able to produce, a multimeter will not give you that info. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autool-Battery-Checker-Charging-Analyzer/dp/B071NS74YK/ref=asc_df_B071NS74YK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310744208542&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5220435035202827615&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046675&hvtargid=pla-465567139144&psc=1

You cannot conduct a meaningful test by using just a multimeter!