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Everything posted by stantheman1

  1. I think he'll be more than happy with just a simple 'like' or 'thanks' by clicking the button at the bottom of his reply box. 🙂
  2. Ha, ha, glad you got it sorted! I did enquire as to where Bob (flash22) was as this was just 'right up his street', in my second post to you. If he can't sort it then nobody can! Well done Bob!
  3. It sounds like the coil pack rubber boot is tracking to earth, is it dirty, damaged or discoloured in any way? Any pictures? Did you manage to get any freeze frame data when it started to misfire?
  4. Check the battery terminals for corrosion and that they're not loose, also check the ground cable from the battery -ve to the chassis to the engine, and as above make sure the connections are tight and free from corrosion,
  5. I would visually check all the electrical connections to sensors etc to see if there's any sign of corrosion, a spray of contact cleaner will help tremendously, I would also check the connections of the ecu as well.
  6. DTC's are diagnostic trouble codes and as there aren't any then there won't be any data in the freeze frame to show. When the check engine light is on then the data can be viewed. Bank 1 Sensor 1 will be the pre cat oxygen sensor (the yaris has only one bank).
  7. I would just stick it down with 'tiger seal', it's far better than duct tape and silicone sealant, you can buy this from Halfords but it's much cheaper online.
  8. They very rarely fail unless they've been subject to heat and moisture. If the error code is still there then pull the freeze frame data to see what when wrong.
  9. Hi Terry Just hook up the scan tool to your car and go through the various menu options until you see freeze frame, there will only be data if a fault is present. Good luck, let us know how you get on.
  10. The idle speed seems to be rather high approx 1400rpm especially when the engine coolant temperature is at normal operating temp and therefore the maf readings are meaningless, at idle it should read appro. 1.3g/s. The fuel trims looked good at times. The best info you could provide is the freeze frame data when a fault occurs, that way we'll be able to see the relevant info. Don't clear the codes until you have saved/recorded the data. There's no harm in cleaning the maf sensor (provided you do it correctly as not cause any damage to it) but I very much doubt that'll fix your issue as your fuel trims look good.
  11. Silly question but have you removed the childproof sticker from the new battery?
  12. ....Not only that but your fuel graphs would be way out. You've probably just disturbed it by getting to the injectors, try the connector again.
  13. The P0100 code may be just down to disturbing the sensor connection, make sure it's 'fully home', so that you hear that resounding 'click'. As above, is the car running okay now?
  14. Also check the condition of the chassis earth link (from battery negative to bodywork(inner wing) and then to engine block) check for a sound connection i.e. not corroded or loose.
  15. Whenever you remove the injectors you always have to replace the 'o' rings. You can purchase them from the dealers for approx. £3 each.
  16. I am also a little confused now, you said that when you checked the spark plugs that they were in perfect condition so not wet or any fouling found, so I'm thinking fuel delivery or the lack of it but then you go on to say that after it was checked with the SnapOn and the fuel graphs looked good. So to recap, you have spark, you have fuel and you must have air at the correct ratio also, hmm! Does the fault happen at idle or when under load? Have your mechanic friend check out the crank sensor, firstly check that its connections are good then if he has a 'scope' and the technical knowledge, to check the waveform whilst in operation. He should be looking for missing pulses around the time when the code is set, if this is the case then I would strongly suspect the sensor as all the other culprits appear to be errant. EDIT: Get your man with the SnapOn tool to see if there are any other codes set (as not all scan tools will show all codes) and get them to show you the freeze frame data and take a picture of it also record the live data showing as much info as possible and report back please. Where's Bob (Flash22) this is just 'right up his street'!
  17. MAF = Mass Air Flow (sensor) If you have correctly ruled out spark plugs and coil packs then the likely culprit could be a clogged injector or a poor electrical connection. It could also be poor compression on cylinder 3. What does the freeze frame data show? What are the fuel trims like and what mileage has the car covered?
  18. Is the noise emanating from the engine bay or from the inside of the car? Has the vehicle had any accessories fitted such as an alarm, sound system etc?
  19. ....Also don't discount the lost key turning up again.
  20. The face lift 2009 onwards had the 1.33 engine, (you can very easily spot these from the self coloured bumper inserts front and back).
  21. The radiator is unlikely to get hot when driving in these temperatures, if there's heat from the internal heater then it's more than likely that everything's 'honky dory'. Try again when the weather picks up and you'll soon be able to see if the radiator gets warm. Btw, the expansion tank doesn't get pressurised as it's open to atmosphere.
  22. It sounds like you could have a weak or faulty battery, are you 100% sure you're trying it with the 'new' battery? Try swapping the battery for the one in the working fob to rule that out.
  23. Try here: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/vitz/2-hatchback-right-xp90-2007-r-2981/electrics-4/rear-combination-lamp-321
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