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Everything posted by Funkadelic

  1. Any idea on where to obtain a front lip like this one? It's all I need. :(
  2. "It's easy, once you get the damn thing off." Would just like to point out that "once you get the damn thing off" is the operative part of this sentence - Getting your cat off could take ten minutes or it could take a whole afternoon! And getting it back on again is a nightmare!
  3. Mine have been removed (it's an import). Do I need them back on the for the MOT? If I do, how long will it take? Do I need to get the wheel off?
  4. That's cheap - Must be a catch somewhere. Still, good to know they are out there. I quite fancy the idea of a drive across Europe in the summer. A hulking great GT would do the job nicely!
  5. Interesting. For how much though?
  6. Problem with that is a good Uk Supra is like a needle in a haystack anyway. I know I'd end up with an imported twin turbo jobbie rather than a UK one... But to be honest, I've run a quote on a twin turbo import and it's quite reasonable. Interestingly enough, it would also cost about 60% less to insure than it would for me to insure a Skyline GTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From the information I've collected, a turbo with an auto 'box seems to be the only proper choice.
  7. It has been suggested to me that, being 21, I might not be ready for a Supra TT! Having driven Ferraris quite fluently round Silverstone I beg to differ, but I'm not turning a blind eye to being sensible, so what are the specs on an SZ?
  8. Jap turbo nutterdom is very tempting - I've almost been there a couple of times. Still considering it, but there's something about the driver involvement of the 'Teg that wins over outright speed for me. Having said that, I'd choose a really nice R32 GTR over an ITR any day!
  9. Yep - I just realised he has a tubby! I am sooooo tempted to get an Integra. Again.
  10. Rhaines, you're probably right - I've been following a lotus Elise that was flaming a bit once. I think mine's running rich too, but I don't get flames. It's probably to do with the diameter of my pipes though! (The car came with 5" slash cut pipes, hence why it's so loud)!
  11. You can't miss the cat - It's a section of pipe about 30cm long in the middle of the system, held in place by four bolts. The top bolts are an absolute !Removed! to get to though and chances are the bolts will be rusted to buggery, and very, very dry!
  12. Fizz, it's a '94 car so I just missed out on skipping the emissions testing. Dale, there are no visible flames (for one thing the exhaust doesn't get hot enough for that, being N/A) but it pops and bangs like a good'un. The engine's ability to breathe more freely means that there is a noticable increase in top-end power, but bottom end torque suffers a fair bit due to the fact that there is no longer any back pressure/pulse tuning going on. The engine becomes almost V-Tec like to an extent. It's nowhere near as "jeckyl and hyde" as a proper V-Tec system but the kick at just over 5000rpm is more pronounced and acceleration between 4000-7000rpm is fairly significantly increased, so the slight loss of bottom end power is probably something you'll be able to live with. My car isn't really much quiter than it was when I had just a straight-through pipe, but the exhaust note itself is nowhere near as three dimensional as before - It's gone from being a menacing rumbler at idle and an absolute screamer at high revs, to a flat, characterless drone... It's very annoying! There is now talk of me getting a new car as a result of the cat' going back in, so my advice would be; gut it!
  13. Funkadelic

    Mot Time!

    MOT time soon, so I've had to bung the !Removed! cat in. Took the best part of the whole afternoon due to dry, rusty bolts and that !Removed! irritating flange ( :o ) but it all came together in the end. The pulse tuning effect must be working as the car actually feels like torque is more evenly distributed across the rev range now, so that's possibly a case for keeping your cat in place if you have a N/A engine. BUT, despite this, the cat is sapping a hell of alot of power, so whilst acceleration is alot smoother it's also alot slower than before... Which sucks. And it sounds like absolute ****! Really flat, and really dull, whereas before it sounded positively frightening, and where it used to crackle and pop loud enough to make people jump, it now hisses and occaisionally drops the odd squeaky !Removed!. I don't care about global warming - I'm gonna start to hate my car if I have to drive it like this for too long.
  14. Where abouts does the little sensor wire plug in to? It's MOT time!
  15. That is funny, but on a serious note I can't stand the ignorant, smarmy attitude that some VW enthusiasts have towards Japenese car enthusiasts. OK, so there is alot of "Jap Crap" out there, but an equally large number of VW Polos are just as bad! And a large number of Mk2 GTis are driven by total !Removed!. :D R32 Golf (the big bad VW) Vs R32 Skyline (the big bad Nissan)? Pleaaaaaassssssseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!
  16. My handbrake cable is slack-as-you-like anyway. Really should get it seen to.
  17. I would say go for 17s. They look just about right IMO and even on 17s the MR2 can become a bit tricky to place at times. I would imagine 18s to be a bit of a nightmare during certain types of driving!
  18. Hello all, it's been a while since my last visit. Quick question... Should I get another one? I'm thinking about a turbo, without a T Bar roof (I never use mine and I would like some extra rigidity in the chassis). Financially, it seems like a sound thing to do when compared to my other choices of car! But some modding would be required this time round in the form of Bomex front bumper, and toms skirts or something along those lines. Not to mention wheels, brakes, suspension... The costs would soon add up. But I dunno if I should go for a modded MRT over, say, a stock RX7 or 'Teggy Type R. Usually my philosophy is never to go back to the same woman/car after having had a good run the first time around. Any opinions? (I anticipate some fairly biased ones from you lot)! ;)
  19. The term you're looking for is "spacer." ;) As I've said, the wheel-wobble is a result of increased information from the road being transmitted through the front wheels, due to the fact that you are running thinner tyres on larger rims. This means there is less cushioning effect between your wheels and the road. I can guarantee you the problem will not disappear unless you go back to smaller rims.
  20. If it's not really been driven anywhere whilst in the garage I can't see how it could be an alternator fault. If people have been removing bits of bodywork and fiddling about you might have a short somewhere though.
  21. Yeah. Sod 5k though - I could get a drift prepped one imported from Japan for that much! !Removed! drifters putting the prices up!
  22. I'm thinking about one of these as a kind of stop-gap car as I save for an RX7 FD3. They seem pretty tricky to find though... Where are the best places to look and how much do they go for?
  23. The problem is that that, even if the rolling radius at the front is the same, there is less rubber between the road surface and the front wheels resulting in an increased amount of feedback through the steering wheel, resulting in tramlining or "wheel wobble." Lots of MR2s tramline terribly on 17s. Mine can be awful depending on the road surface.
  24. How much do Truenos cost these days?
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