Geoff Peace

Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Geoff Peace

  1. Six of one, half a dozen of the other I would say. By LU UK I presume you mean LUK who manufacture dual mass flywheels for a wide range of vehicles. Blueprint are also very reliable. So either or as it were. Regards Geoff Peace
  2. Firstly there is no easy way round, the immobiliser and ECU are interlinked. Secondly, if there were an easy way round it should not be posted on an open forum for reasons of security. Thirdly, I would think a replacement would have to be programmed by a Toyota dealer. Not cheap! Regards Geoff Peace.
  3. Immobiliser? Regards Geoff Peace.
  4. The first step is to read the fault codes. Otherwise you are stabbing in the dark. Regards Geoff Peace.
  5. What makes you think you need a new clutch, other than the bite point being low? Is it slipping? Put the car in first gear, engine running, handbrake and footbrake on. Increase the revs to about 1500 with your hand, since your right foot will be on the brake. Let the clutch out slowly, the engine should stall, indicating the clutch is OK the fault is with the release mechanism. Regards Geoff Peace.
  6. Glad it was an easy solution. Good Luck to your daughter on her interview, We need nurses. Check lights frequently, it could mean life or death! remember the RSM's question, when did you last check all your equipment lad? Do it now! Regards Geoff Peace.
  7. I can't believe both bulbs would fail simultaneously. I can, I have known this happen many times, the bulbs are probably the same age, so any shock or surge in current can blow them both. Another scenario is that if one bulb has blown the, driver may not notice, particularly if most of the driving is done on roads with good street lighting. If the fuses are OK test the bulbs. Regards Geoff Peace.
  8. Glad you got it sorted! The genuine Toyota part is by far the best, If I had a pound for every time someone has bought a cheap part and then had to buy he proper one I would be quite well off. Buy cheap, buy twice! Regards Geoff Peace.
  9. The point I pick up here, which is in line with my original reply, is that if you are driving on full beam and nobody flashed you, then, I submit, the lights are not aligned correctly. The beam should fall at 1% or an inch every eight feet. I would question that your lights do this. If you are in a country lane on full beam, every oncoming driver should flash you, and curse you! Regards Geoff Peace.
  10. Clean the VVTi valve. There should be guides on tinternet somewhere! Make sure it is not gummed up with oil, and take care with the O ring, otherwise it will leak. Regards Geoff Peace.
  11. It sounds as if the pinion is sticking . You need to remove the starter to check, the pinion shaft will probably be contaminated with dust from the clutch which will not be helping matters. It needs cleaning then just a trace of oil to ensure the pinion moves freely. Regards Geoff Peace. Have things changed as I was taught yonks ago that even a trace of oil will cause dust to stick ? Del Yes oil does attract dust etc. So you are quite right. That is why I said a trace. There will be plenty of clutch dust on the pinion and the shaft which turns into a filthy paste and causes the pinion to stick. After cleaning, I would say a little oil then wipe the oil off. Even better would be graphite or one of the teflon lubricants which would not attract the clutch dust as much. Regards Geoff Peace.
  12. It sounds as if the pinion is sticking . You need to remove the starter to check, the pinion shaft will probably be contaminated with dust from the clutch which will not be helping matters. It needs cleaning then just a trace of oil to ensure the pinion moves freely. Regards Geoff Peace.
  13. Geoff Peace


    The jack fits between the two small notches in the sill just behind the front wheel. (to change the front wheel) Or just in front of the rear wheel (to change the rear wheel) Look in your handbook on page 463 Steps 4 and 5 the diagrams will make things clearer. Regards Geoff Peace.
  14. Just to add. If you google motor factors and where you live then you will be able to choose. They supply the trade with parts but sell to the public as well. Do you have a Euro Car Parts in your area for example? Much cheaper than going to a dealer. Hope this helps. Regards Geoff Peace.
  15. Now I have seen the photographs it would seem that the lamp lens is not clear but has a frosted, or 'bulls eye' appearance. Are all hybrids the same? or is there a rogue batch of headlights? I say this because I own a Mazda MX5 the dipped headlights have the same frosted look, but a switch to main beam leaves the dip on and two separate main beam lights illuminate but they are clear glass. I am of the opinion the headlights on the hybrid should be clear, as is my wife's 1.33 TR Yaris. Just to add, In the 50's and 60's when all cars had circular seven inch headlights the standard bulb was 45/40watt! I know cars were not quite as quick then but a car I used to service in the early sixties had the same headlight bulb and that was an Aston Martin DB4, nothing slow about that! But the headlamp alignment was part of a routine service and checked every six months. How things change. Regards Geoff Peace.
  16. I always fit Bosch never had any trouble. Do not get them from Halfords though! Motor Factor, much cheaper. Try cleaning the edge of the blade with methylated spirit. RainX on the windscreen is very good I find. Regards Geoff Peace.
  17. Leaks like this are often difficult to trace. If there is water under the passenger seat, lift the carpet, look at the heater box near the floor passenger side, you should see a rubber drain tube from the heater and passing out of the car through the floor. Check that it has not become dislodged or split. Regards Geoff Peace.
  18. Very true but in cases like this, it is often a poor earth connection which causes the problem. The current tries to find its way to earth, often through another part of the wiring harness. I would check the wiring on the wiper harness and its connector. Regards Geoff Peace.
  19. Does your handbook give any tyre pressures under the heading 'Eco pressure'? Regards Geoff Peace
  20. As above. If all OK lift the carpet, passenger side and look at the lower rear of the heater. You should see a rubber drain tube from the heater which should go out through the floor. If it is dislodged the water will drain into the car. If OK you need to remove the glovebox and check the pollen filter. If you need instructions on this just post. Regards Geoff Peace.
  21. Just about impossible to answer really without at least a photograph of the damage. Can you post a photograph? Regards Geoff Peace.
  22. Well, that's your problem there. All cars are NOT made of the same materials. The bulk of them are similar, but the little things - like the seals inside the engine for oil and coolant - are often quite different. So one engine's 'good stuff' could be another one's poison and cause the seals to fail eventually. And don't even think of assuming that all engines from one manufacturer will use the same specs - different engines in the same car (even two petrol versions) may use different specs, so always check. Also, what is commonly called antifreeze is these days in modern engines often a complex coolant. Using ordinary a/f or plain water can lead to overheating. If your car is allergic to glycol you'd better drain and flush it, and put some right stuff in. Agree with the above. Antifreeze these days is a minefield with OAT technology, silicates, borates, you name it! Antifreeze protects the engine against freezing, to state the obvious, another very important function is the anti corrosion inhibitors. Mixing antifeeze can destroy them. Use the correct one for the car. If in any doubt go to the Comma Oils website and input your details for the correct information. I have been using their antifreeze for years and I I find it excellent. Remember, antifreeze is very cheap compared with a head gasket if said gasket corrodes due to lack of inhibitors. Not unknown! Regards Geoff Peace.
  23. At the time the US had just pumped a huge number of dollars into the home car manufacturers. Nothing like discrediting the opposition to sway public opinion, just ever so slightly of course! Regards Geoff Peace.
  24. My manual also shows one washer pump, but a washer switch for the front and another for the rear. I would think the early models reversed the pump direction for front and rear. However, my wife had a 2005 Yaris and there were definitely two washer pumps. I would remove the connectors to these and put a 12v supply across each pump in turn to confirm they work. What can happen is, in frosty weather if you do not have enough additive in the washer fluid it will freeze, when you try to operate the washers the pump will rotate and strip the vanes from the impeller. Hence no washers! So verify the pumps work firstly, if they are OK and the 20A fuse is OK investigate the earth on the column switch. The Haynes manual is definitely for earlier models and has not been updated, no reference to electric power steering for instance Regards Geoff Peace.
  25. I rate the reliability of Toyota very highly, I have been connected with the motor trade since the early fifties so I have seen many faults on many cars. One thing about Toyota is they are not the cheapest on the road, it is possible to by an 'equivalent' more cheaply. My wife bought a Yaris in 2005 and one thing which impressed me was the quality of the electrical connectors and the wiring in general. Cars are now much more reliable mechanically than say forty, fifty years ago, but they are much more unreliable electrically because of all the electronics on modern cars. This, to me, is where Toyota scores. My wife had her first Yaris for nearly seven years, no trouble at all. She recently bought a new Mk.3 yaris, just as reliable. I think Toyota are first class in the reliability index, in my opinion anyway! Regards Geoff Peace.