stewyinpagham

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About stewyinpagham

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    S
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    HAD: LC3, T180, Verso D4D, Starlet, Carina
  • Toyota Year
    2011
  • Location
    Hampshire
  1. Hi Lee From your Avatar pic it appears you have the previous Rav to the one I had. I dont know if yor 'key' is directly connected to the starter motor relay or if there is a 'brain' in the way. I'm sure somebody here can help with that one as if it's directly connected there could be a sticky relay or contact that could be found using a test lamp. JUst because the starter was not the issue with my T180 don't discount it as I've had occasions on 'Landies' with starter motors hanging-in after the engine has started but this is usually down to poor build quality of Lucas and Bosch motors coupled with corrosion, oil, mud or all 3 in the flywheel housing!
  2. Hi Lee No I never did get to the bottom of the gremlin. The T180 almost lived at Snows in Hedge-end Southampton for a month and all they did was change the starter motor. This was never going top be the fault and the problem remained until I backwards dealt with my local Citroen dealer for a Berlingo Multispace. Stu
  3. Well guys and gals, thanks for all the assistance and banter over the years but I've had it with Toyota GB and their 'representative' in Hedge-end Southampton. Having taken the car in on 4 occasions and the dealer keeping it for many days each time and after supplying umpteen videos of the car starting badly, a temperature and weather record and even recording how long the car has stood for between starts, they finally decided to fit a starter motor? http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=121775&st=0&p=1091563&fromsearch=1entry1091563 I told them it would not fix the problem and it was glowplug or temperature sensor related but they knew best as they were the dealer! So next morning, post new starter motor the car started like a bag of 'doo'! I immediately called the service manager and he could not believe it. He then said he would call back within the hour and arrange to have the car back in. I'm still waiting and thats 2 months ago! In desperation when I got to work, I ripped off the engine sound shield to check all the electrical connectors I could see. Bu$$er me.. the glow-plug rail was loose and No2 glowplug had even lost its securing nut and plastic cap. The final nail is that it is now starting to blow coolant from the header tank and yes I know the Toyota have pushed the warranty out to 7 years I'm told, but I've just have had enough. As I've had so many issues with the car, I've decided to by a 'reliable' brand and have moved to Citroen.... At least I know it will be flaky, and fall apart but as I've not paid premium money for it It won't upset me and most AA men can fix it.. and its got a spare wheel. My old T180 in silver, 45000 miles, 1 owner, Full TSH is probably up for sale down East Sussex way.. nudge nudge you have been told.
  4. In the boot of my T180 resides an Avensis space-saver purchased from the local salvage yard for £20.00. It's 5 stud and 114mm pitch with a 60.1mm hole center. With it are ''instructions'' for the 'AA' man to fit this only to a rear wheel and use if required the rear on the front. He then has to unplug the EGR valve connector. This 'throws a code' in the engine brain and disconnects the 4wd. Wife can then drive home without any worries about damaging the 4WD system. The code 'resets' when the plug is replaced in the EGR valve. Sounds convoluted, but the space saver removes any worries even with the bl@@dy Bridgestone RFT's fitted that we will get stuck!
  5. Hi All Photos here... http://s868.photobucket.com/albums/ab247/stewyinpagham/TPMS%20disable%20photos/
  6. I ran with TPMS 'rigged for off' until last Sunday. I have RFT's and a working TPMS so I will use it till the new rims arrive. The testing process has included a couple of extended runs of over 1.5 hours with no warning lamp showing. The reason for the pink wire from the binnacle being 'taken' to 0V is to stop the alarm pack from detecting a cable or unit failure of the TPMS unit and flashing the alarm. If you're in the Fareham Po16 area, I will happily do this mod for you or any T/SR180 owner. It takes about 10-mins 'Tops' and costs about £1.00 + a pint! I did take some photos and will endeavor to upload them tomorrow when I'm on a faster server. Stu.
  7. Hi Anchorman.. O-guru of Ravvy things.. I will try the waiting but the question is.. when its really cold, into the minuses, it's on the button no waiting. Surely thats when it needs the warmth to stop the 'cold' diesel putting out the fire? Have you an idea of the current draw for the glowies so I can put a peak-hold clamp meter on the supply and push the button. EDIT Leaving the glowies on for longer.
  8. Hi Offroadster. This only occurs when the temp is approx 5 to 8 deg C. When it frozen hard it's on the button. When it's hot or the ambient temp is hot it's is on the button. The start button is more like the return button on your 'mac. It just sends a 'start' signal to the brain. I've just tried holding down the start button and it does not keep the starter engaged.
  9. Hi all. Any one had this wierd problem when starting their Diesel Rav when the weathers a bit damp?. I've worked out that it happens when the ambient temperature is about 5-8deg C. It's not every time but I've finally caught it on camera-phone! If the cars covered in thick ice or snow it starts perfect. If the temperatures nice and warm, perfect. It's done it on a full tank of fuel and when the fuel lamps on. It's done it parked up hill and down hill. When it does start it pulls like a train. 99% of the fuel it's had is V-power or Optimax and I've cleaned out the EGR after this started and it still does it!
  10. Hi Had mine from new in 2006 and still have it, now @ 42K. I bought a T180 just to 'rag it about' till the 'FT86' was released in 2008.. what year is it now? I've not yet had the head gasket / carbon build-up on the pistons problem asI'm not worried as TGB have pushed this repair to seven years. I've had a few issues, but my local Mr T (WKB in Chichester) is very accommodating The fact that I give it some beans regularly has probably saved the build up. As for MPG anything with 180BHP, oodles of torque and as aerodynamic as a breeze-block will guzzle V-power and Optimax when you boot it, but if I wanted MPG I'd drive an Aygo! (no offense Aygo owners) ....... Now when is that FT86 Toyobaru actually released.
  11. Do you notice any imbalance during braking? I'm not going to suggest that your stealer may be absolutely honest about the condition of your Discs & Pads but check your self. If you change them yourself there are 2 sizes of pads listed after-market for the early T180. I know, I had the wrong set the first time. http://s868.photobucket.com/albums/ab247/stewyinpagham/?action=view&current=2types.jpg
  12. DMF and clutch... did they give you any milage on this? I've 5 months till warranty runs out.
  13. Here we go.. Snipped pink wire to Pin 5 on instrument pack. Ran a permanent 0v to a the chassis ground point behind lower OSF A panel trim. No lamp 'on' during ign. test cycle. Ran car for 1.25 hours continuous. No TPWS lamp. No other warning lamps or any other messages. I will leave this as is for a week and see if a longer run has any effect -timer?- and will then revert to TPMS normal operation. I've still not found the TPMS gismo box as my bottle is not up for playing with 'air-bags' but I don't seem to need to. There was something comforting when conducting the tests when the TPMS the lamp came on immediately @19Psi... Thanks for the tech. input SHCM. Now starts the debate, do I run 17" rims and sell the 18's.....? Just realized... Connect the 'NEW' 0V cable from the chassis ground to the Pink from the instrument panel. Insulate old wire from TPMS.
  14. You could treat it like the I.T. man would do with a Windoze computor. Pull the fuse or disconnect the battery?
  15. My Sister and step Daughter both have RAV 4.2's. 1 is a petrol and 1 is a diesel. Both have a plenty of miles on them now and have proven to be very reliable. The petrol has only had an ozy sensor fail and since my sister retired, numerous flat batteries but this is a known petrol fault caused by lack of use and a battery smaller than my torch! The diesel has just under 100K on it and is still on the original clutch. Apart from a battery at 6 years no other faults (kiss of death now). They both 'rib' me about my 4.3 and the 'dealer-oppertunities' it's suffered. Having done a fair bit of 'soft-off-roading', the X-trail is a good car apart from a very vunerable exhaust but more worryingly the diesels seem to be overstressed and crack cylinder heads within seconds of loosing any coolant. If your milage isn't great the Scubi Forester is an extreamly capable 'car' but is a tad greedy with the 2star. Stu