Konrad C

I think your car may be still be under warranty, if within 5 years or 100,000 miles. But, it depends where you are located as this applies to the UK at least.

I think the fault is with your O2 sensors, and may be have been part of the original problem. You don't say what engine in your car but it is either 1.8 1ZZ or 2.0 AZ. These engines are totally different, and the major difference is that the 2.0l is direct injection. Maybe you can add the engine size to your cars description. I think it may be the 2.0l, because you mention bank 2 sensor 2. There are 4 O2 sensors on the 2.0l but less on the 1.8l engine. If I had a running problem, before carrying out any fixes, check what all the components are doing by carrying out a live diagnostics. Then you can see what is going on. Most of the components you have mentioned are covered by diagnostics. Then individual checks can be done, like measuring the resistance outputs of the O2 sensors. How did the dealer come to the conclusion of the injectors, and did they check the other parts before replacing the injectors? The big question, is how many miles the car has done, and what is the service history of the car? You have to factor in wear and tear! Try disconnecting the battery for about a minute to see it resets the ECU back to learning mode, then drive the car at various engine speeds and loads.

Also check and use the discount code on the Euro Car Parts site and you could get it as cheap as the Carparts4less. I reserve and the collect and pay that way. Current code is SUMMER35.

Same for the UK, 1AZ-FSE direct injection only. A lot of new petrol engines are direct injection, and most with turbos. Hopefully these newer engines can cope with E10 or the manufacturers will have a problem. Norway has on of the highest uptake of EV's and hybrids with incentives.

The rear doors are a different shape. The saloon slopes, whilst the estate is more squared. Still, check with avensisd4d786 to confirm.

The actual oil change is as easy on the 2ZR engine as the 7AFE engine. The difference is you need to undo 3 clips, to open the access panel of the under tray. Then you need the Toyota specific oil filter tool - Without this tool, getting the oil filter could be difficult if tight, plus can be damaged. The tool is fairly cheap and easy to get, so no excuses. The oil filter location is close to the sump drain plug under the car, so when the access panel is opened everything are there - The cost of the oil is not as cheap being 0w-20 instead of the 10w-40 of the older engine. Some or may be a lot of garages would probably put in 5w-30 grade, instead of the preferred 0w-20 as stated in the handbook. I think the 2ZR engine is easier on the oil, because I use less revs in most situations - 5th gear at speeds of 30 mph on light throttle, 6th gear over 45 mph. The upshift indicator calls for it if I don't go into the higher gear. Car didn't need topping up between oil changes and I average 8000 miles a year. Some ways this car is cheaper to service compared to mey old Avensis - no cambelt, the spark plugs are cheaper even though they are the same Denso iridium brand and need a smaller socket, only one drive belt on the 2ZR compared to the three on the 7AFE, and the cabin filter is far cheaper. There is no power steering fluid to check. Not touched the coolant (long life), and the water pump looks easy to access if need changing! I recommend to those out of warranty, want to save a bit, and handy with tools.

Well done Johan. You did the right thing by researching and checking, before you buy. The 2.0 1AZ is a different to the ZZ series. The main different is the direct injection used by the 1AZ, which means it needs a little more powerful alternator. Add the fact that the 1AZ is used on the higher spec cars with more kit. Also applies to the battery. The bigger 2.4l 2AZ shares a lot of the 1AZ parts too.

You need to see and compare the two alternators. The position of the mounting points need to be identical, so the belt is straight. The main plug has to be the same too. The belts are the same gong by the following - http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2004/camry/acv30l-aemnkw/3_284570_001_/tool-engine-fuel/1605_v-belt#16361A http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2004/avensis/azt250l-awmehw/3_273550_012_223W/tool-engine-fuel/1605_v-belt#16361A Looking at the diagrams from the following, the alternator plugs may be different :- http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2004/avensis/azt250l-awmehw/3_273550_012_223W/tool-engine-fuel/1903_alternator http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2004/camry/acv30l-aemnkw/3_284570_001_/tool-engine-fuel/1903_alternator/1 You need to contact the sellers and tell them what you actually have and need, swap photos, so you know what you are buying before committing. I am being general and because you are non-UK cannot recommend specific sellers.

Good question. I guess that some of those cars may not used as much over the latter years. Then there is the perception regarding Toyota's reliability reputation. I think a majority of general public think that Toyota's are reliable and not aware of any issues, that those of use in the forum know about. Then there are the 1ZZ engines that actually never had oil burning issues! I would like to think that there are very few original, oil burning engines are still around.

Do you mean the remote switch on the drivers door is no working the rear passenger window, whilst the rear passenger switch works fine? I would remove the door card and check the wiring and connections. I suspect the wire from the master controller may be disconnected or damaged within the passenger door. I looked at my Mk1 Haynes manual which has wiring schematics, that gives a rough idea how the Mk3 may be wired. If I am correct, you can still disable the passenger control from the master switch. As a tip for future reference, before undoing the screws to release the glass from the lifter, set then glass at the height to access the the screws, then use tape or suction holders to holder the glass in place. When the screws are removed, the glass won't drop. Good to know if working by yourself or even with help. Did you change the rear windows in the load area and the tailgate glass too? The reason is the to know how the heating elements and antennas are connected, and do they still work?

Since the car is only two years old and very low mileage, take it back to the dealer and complain. I checked your earlier posts, to notice you have the 2 litre diesel. You also mention towing a trailer. These may or may not cause the problem. What you need is diagnostic check.

This is one reason why I prefered to do the oil change myself, or go to a Toyota specialist who should have the proper tool. Some garages don't have the proper tool, and you end up with a damaged filter housing. While viewing the various Youtube videos on Toyota oil and filter changes, I came across this video where the owner changes the filter only, after having a stuck filter housing, and not have the correct tool. He decided to change the oil, then do oil filter later when he had the correct tool - I found that backward thinking because when I got my car, I researched what tools were needed before tackling the job. I bought the tool months before the oil change time. Anyway the owner got away with only losing the oil in the filter and not from the engine, because of the valve system of the filter housing. He only had to top up a small amount of oil. Good to know if you had an oil change by a garage, and suspect the filter may have not been changed.

I just carried out the annual oil and filter service, for the third year. The car has just done over 76,000 miles. I took the following photo a few hours later to record the odometer. I covered my previous oil service experience here:- I am currently using Petronis 0W-20 oil I got at discount from Euro Car Parts. The only issue I had this time, was the filter being hard to undo. Blame the last person who changed the oil filter - me. A longer socket handle and brute force sorted that out. Toyota seem to be using the same style filter across the range of most the petrol and hybrid engines, including the tool. I checked the coolant which was near the minimum mark. I topped up a little for the first time in well over a year, which is not bad, since only a small amount was needed. Drive belt was checked and looks fine - I have spare in the boot. The cabin and air filters have been change earlier this year. The car is fine for a good while.

Do you have a dashcam? If not get one! If you did have one, you could have identified the car - easier during daylight. I would have pursued for a brand new replacement at the other owners cost, so long as the other car was properly registered and insured! I did a how to remove the Avensis door mirror cover, which I assume is similar procedure to the Auris - The following images gives you an idea of the Auris door mirror - and the indicator From the image above, the signal repeater is a standard 501 bulb. Cheaper than the LED fitted to the Avensis. There are some selfish drivers out there, hence the dash cam. I got a video where I was passing some parked cars either side, and the oncoming car didn't want to give way, but stopped because there was only enough room for one. Replaying the video showed I was correct.

You need to make an account to see the images as well as part numbers. I use this sight along with http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota Toyota are very consistent with each generation of cars, so fixes for the Celica, are the same for Avensis using the same engine. Also the OBD jumper wire/paper clip tricks are the same across most the cars for ABS, SRS and EML until OBD2 standard and VSC systems came along. Then you need a diagnostic scanner that supports these later functions.