Konrad C

I didn't mention the EGR as links I posted made the EGR one of the probable causes. Also, as my car is valvematic, it does not have an EGR. Good shout. 👍👍🏽👍🏾

Contrary to Scott's post about me, I only know some of the things about the EBP system. I have experienced a couple of different issues - when the EPB seems to not disengage, so have to switch the car off and restart (very rare). Secondly and after I had the clutch replaced, the mechanic did not secure a gear position sensor connection properly. The following link details the fix:- It could be a connection issue like corroded terminals. One thing you should do, is raise the rear wheels and see if they spin freely when the EPB is off. It could be possible that one of the cables or callipers has seized. Here is a link to a fix that partially worked because the connector was still attached:- Look at this post too:- An auto electrician with good diagnostics like Toyota techstream should be able to confirm the fault. My friend (auto electrician) used diagnostics (not techstream) that showed a diagram of the gear position sensor and location. Other issues could be wiring, and pedal sensors. Diagnostics will hopefully find the actual fault. I like to learn and know all I can about the EBP, so hopefully this will help.

I saw this post and was going to add my own post with links and diagrams, but since a link has already been provided, I will just answer the following. The hand brake cable from the handle, goes a short distance to an equalizer bar under the car. Then two much longer cables go to each drum. The cables hook on to levers inside the drums The drum system is no different to brakes I have seen and worked on other makes. It shouldn't be too difficult and I am a DIY mechanic.

Your car is the previous model to my 2009 T27, but the devices I have were designed to work with your car. Here is what I did to add Bluetooth/USB/SD/AUX adapter to my car - Here are links to the adapters :- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluetooth-USB-AUX-music-Interface-Toyota-Avensis-Prius-T25-hands-free-kit-/172679111993 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Interface-Streaming-Handsfree-Highlander/dp/B01FM100MY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y6RYT5KAMB54KBHMTD00 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Handsfree-Changer-Adapter-Interface-black/dp/B06ZZB1XFC/ref=pd_sbs_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06ZZB1XFC&pd_rd_r=f8e1da62-ceba-11e8-99f3-b1e9d09c1b5d&pd_rd_w=G58lT&pd_rd_wg=4j2UE&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=91BB8Y91T3V197ZZM72N&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=91BB8Y91T3V197ZZM72N https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Bluetooth-USB-SD-AUX-MP3-WMA-Player-Interface-TOYOTA-Auris-Avensis-Corolla-/222408170523 These are the cheaper examples and I have both but currently using the LaPower version even though the sound via Bluetooth is mono and not as loud. The other version which has as the additional controller, has a better Bluetooth sound, but cannot take calls if listening to the built in radio or CD. The LAPower takes calls regardless of the source. Since your son wants to pipe the sound to the speakers, the AUX function of the adapters will be useful. Before buying the adapter, make sure your stereo is compatible. The standard CD/radio are all fine, but the later Nav version may not work or an additional Y cable may be required. Hope find the suitable solution.

I would only stick to turbos from 1CD-FTV engine. The AD engines will be different. When getting a second hand turbo, you will not know it's history, so check the seals, play in the bearings and overall condition. You could end up in the same position otherwise!

Sorry you have to have such an expensive repair done. I own one of the earliest cars with the Valvematic engine since 2015, and have made sure the oil is changed at regular intervals. I don't know if the oil change helps, but I do anything to limit any failures. When you do a teardown of your old controller, it will be interesting to know how it failed. Unfortunately a lot of other manufacturers are using more complicated engineering, to meet emissions and power requirements. I look forward to your findings Mohammed.

I meant to say "I would not carry a car battery in the load area or passenger compartment!" The battery would need to be in a vented area and securely strapped down. The battery would need to be a sealed type. What about the battery solutions that in car audio people use, with a double charging systems.

I would carry a battery around in the load area of an estate for long periods for safety reasons! For emergencies I would carry booster cables/jump leads, or one of those power banks (if they are that good).

Replace the clutch! Adjusting will only change the pedal position and where the biting points happen. The clutch will slip all the same, and you could end up damaging the flywheel. Anyway 69k is just about right for some cars if driven by a driver who uses the clutch a bit too much or rides the clutch pedal. At least you will know the car will have a good clutch. The clutch is far cheaper than my 2009 1.8 TR Tourer, which has an internal slave cylinder/bearing, and more connections to the transmission. As I said, just change the clutch.

This may not be related, but I had slightly jerky at light throttles, when feathering the pedal. I tried cleaning the MAF sensor with CRC air sensor cleaner - The MAF sensor is located on the air filter cover - Undo two bolts and unplug wire connections to remove. Be careful not to touch or contaminate the sensor. Here are some close up photos :- I sprayed the cleaner over the following areas:- The sensor was left to dry then refitted. The car was less jerky and is now much smoother on the throttle. Most of the time the engine sits at low to mid rpm (2500), but occasionally I rev it higher, especially when going up steep hills. Fuel consumption is currently over 37 mpg, before was 35. I did the cleaning in August.

A few years ago, I successfully bled the brakes of my old Avensis using the Gunson Easibleed pressure bleeding kit. I set the pressure to about 25 psi after trying 15 psi. I went to each wheel and went around until the new fluid came through. I started at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. The result, good responsive pedal. I worked on my own so this was the only way I could get the job done. Anyway I tried pumping the pedal route with an assistant a few years earlier, and it did not work. The pedal was soft and had long travel. That is when I first got the pressure bleeding kit. It is easier and faster.

Good luck with the upgrade. My car being TR spec 1.8 v-matic manual, has cruise control. If and when you fit the cruise control, if the light does come on, you need to go to a quiet road and make sure that the brake pedal cancels cc when pressed! This is the most important safety check. The other functions like setting the speed, change speed faster/slower, resume and cancel on the stalk should work as marked. Cruise control should work better with the auto.

This is of interest to me even though I don't have the Nav system. On the old DVD based system, the radio would not even work if the disc was not in the drive on boot up, after battery reconnection. If the disc was missing, it would mean finding a replacement. At least with the later systems you only lose navigation. If I was buying a car, I would make sure it had the memory stick, either installed or with the owners manual and spare key. It would be on my check list - spare keys, owners manual, locking wheelnut key, and any other item the car supposed to have. A friend of a friend had his memory card stolen by a garage, so he manage to source a genuine updated version online.

To prevent blockages, I have always used premixed washer fluid. I check the washer fluid level every so often and top up. I keep spare containers of the washer fluid and avoid using tap water. Use distilled water if possible if needed to dilute washer fluid. I have not had a blockage for a long time, nor need to adjust the jets.

I would say they are rare in petrol, and even more rare in Tourer (estate) form. add the 2ltr as the economy is not much worse and VED are the same as the 1.8. Just make sure that the car is regularly serviced and cared for. I do regular oil and filter services using the preferred grade of 0w-20 oil myself. This includes the oil and air filters. Don't forget the cabin filters. If you get the 'Nav' version, it must have the SD card with it. The radio will not work without, it if the battery is disconnected! Owners manual is very handy, and make sure you have the locking wheel nut key. I have only driven the auto in a RAV4, but it is similar to the Avensis. You need to drive one to experience the CVT. The EPB has it's quirks. Mine is the early version that auto releases, but you have to engage yourself when switching off. I made the mistake only once! Hopefully you get the space saver spare as a minimum and not that repair gunk. I have a second hand full size alloy as my spare, and it was last used when I clipped the curb tearing the sidewall. No gunk will repair a 1" tear! For spec TR should be your lowest. You miss a lot of kit like no centre storage cover armrest, no cruise control, no alloy wheels, no Bluetooth handsfree (that can be remedied with a Bluetooth USB/SD card adapter), and a few minor things. Here is the brochure for the early T27 so you can compare the specs at that time. AVENSIS_tcm-3060-363505.pdf Hope you find the right car.