Konrad C

Yes. I did secure a couple of 5 litre bottles, last year at a very good price. Add that I had plenty left over from previous oil changes, I have enough for now. I will look at other options when the time comes. Engine hardly needs topping between changes, and done just over 95,000 miles ('58 plate 2009).

My friend had her 2011 Auris Hybrid recalled for airbag. She got the car back and some of the setting s have reset including the time and date. She manage to set the time by fluke according to her, but doesn't know how to set the date. I told her to use the DISP button to change the function once she gets into Set up mode, to high light DATE. Then long press to enter date change. I think it's similar to my Avensis T27 setup. She is giving it try, so I hope I put her on the right track. I told her to check the owners manual, which is in the car. She lives a little far for me to travel (u

The 'preferred' oil grade is 0w-20. I suspect that a lot of cars are using 5w-30 because it is readily available and cheaper. What a coincidence. I was only just looking at the owners manual for the Auris, so here is confirmation - I always my Avensis Valvematic oil changes myself and always use 0w-20 Petronas 7000 fully synthetic. I have the oil filter tool to change the cartridge type filter.

Glad you have found the possible cause. Since your post, we had some temperatures of just under 0°C in London and the south east. I can tell you, when I set the temperature to say 23°C, the car was warm and comfortable. I increased the temperature to 26°C and it was hot. As I said in my previous post, I changed the water pump and used 50% mix of long life Toyota coolant and de-ionised water. Everything looked clean. Here is my post on that - I have noticed other posters having issues posting photos, but I have not had any issues. May be there is a setting out!

Bob, going by Rob's description 2002 vvti, all petrol Avensis engine oil filters are spin on canister type, until the Valvematics that use cartridge type. I am also surprised the sump plug is the same - my old leanburn is virtually the same. I am using the same fibre washers, every oil change. I kept my Haynes manual from when I owned my old Mk1 7A-FE, as it covers all T22 petrol engines.

Normal start up with other Toyota engine designs, before 7A-FE 1.8 leanburn and 2ZR-FAE 1.8 Valvematic before and after the 1ZZ 1.8. Yes normal, especially in the cold to get the engine to operating temperature quickly.

I would say no or at least very rare. If the engine had a turbo, then there is more scope. Even hard still is the fact that the Valvematic engine is a complicated set up and Toyota ECUs are not easy to chip! To generate more torque, more air and fuel is needed. This would mean forced induction of super charger or turbo. The 2.0l version of the Valvematic engine is not that much more powerful, with 20Nm extra of torque. Look at this to understand the ZR engine series - https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/19-09-30_faq_zr-engine_eng.htm I am mostly happy with my 1.8 Tourer and when I do need

I can't provide any photos, but so long as the mating surface is clean and even, it should make a good seal. The filter is easy to screw on by design until tightening. Couple of things to note. Replace the fibre washer on the sump plug - size M12. This serves two purposes - stops any possible leaks and helps to stop the plug working loose through vibration. When replacing the oil filter, run a film of clean oil over the rubber seal of the filter. This helps with sealing and tightening. Both procedures with stop the sump plug and oil filter from being loose and leak, like how you fo

I don't have this multi media unit having the more basic system, but I checked the manual and the unit needs the data SD card to boot, not DVD! https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/{AA1D1449-9E87-E79E-E0BA-A85EA4D19E87}/01955_TNS 510_OM_LR.pdf Hopefully you received the owners manual, the audio system manual and the SD card in the folder that comes with the car. Someone I know had his SD card stolen, so he had to get another one, just to get the audio unit to boot! This happens when the battery is disconnected and the unit loses all of it's settings. Once power has been restored,

There is a diagnostic test that might help you check the heater ventilation operation. I tested it on my T27 Avensis and it works, so should work on your T25! http://www.cardiagnostics.be/-now/Self Diagnose Toyota Corolla ECC-panel.htm This should check the motor flaps you suspect may be faulty.

Since the Carina has a similar 7A-FE engine to the Mk1 Avensis, so long as most of the fuel components are the same, there is a possibility it is compatible! I say with caution, because there could some differences. The Avensis (97-99) with the 7A-FE is 'cleared' to be used with E10 fuel, but strangely the later AZ-FSE series is not! The AZ-FSE are direct injection engines, and other direct injection petrol engines of the time from Ford, Mitsubishi/Volvo, Vauxhall and VAG are also not compatible. Same for a lot of carburettor cars. I hope my theory that 7A-FE is compatible whatever the insta

You are not contradicting me, but the person in the quote I posted, since it's not my words. Only noticed this a year later! What I have read is E10 is supposed to be less 'efficient', so the performance and economy may be slightly worse! I also read from different sources that some have noticed, others not at all. Back when leaded petrol was being phased out in the UK, for a while there was three fuel pumps - leaded (4 star), unleaded, and diesel. I had a '85 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 using 4 star. I then found out that I could switch to unleaded which was cheaper, so I just switched after checking

Glad you found the broken wire. Could this have been the real fault and the original coil is fine? That is why I would switch coils with one of the other cylinders, to see if the fault follows before splashing out, as suggested by Gerg! Last year whilst changing the spark plug (routine service), one of the coil connecters broke at the catch. I replaced that.

We are about to switch to E10 later this year in the UK, so I cannot say how my car will be affected yet. The fuel grade in the UK is E5 95 RON. There are super grade of 97/98 octane, and I think 99. Also it is said that E10 fuel is less efficient! At least the engine is compatible unlike the AZ direct injection engines, and similar engines from Ford, Mitsubishi/Volvo and VAG, which are totally incompatible! When we start using E10, I will report back.

The real concern for me is, what happened when you jump start? Last couple of years I had battery issues, before finally changed the battery. It got worse when the pandemic and restrictions began. I bought a small jump starter power pack, beginning of last year, after flattening the battery installing a dashcam and testing, plus listening to music while doing the install. A neighbour helped me jump start my car, but it could happen when nobody was available, hence the jumper pack. When I did the jumper lead process - both cars plus lead first then negative. Disconnected negative first, then po