Konrad C

I recently looked under a Yaris Hybrid in a garage, and the catalytic convertor is right on the manifold, making it hard to access in the usual few minutes. Only the resonators from the joint back to the tailpipe are accessible, and the thieves aren't interested. On the Prius, the first resonator is the catalytic convertor that the thieves target. This difference is why the Yaris Hybrid is a safer bet. Another thought is to debadge the Auris Hybrid, since there are other variants of that car (petrol, diesel). Unfortunately a Prius has no such option apart from trying different forms of protections/guards to at least deter or slow these thieves.

Today my friend Waqar who is a member of this forum, has become the latest victim. His wife went to Leatherhead leisure centre in Surrey, and the theft took place in the carpark. His car is gen 2 Prius. A couple of months back whilst he was having the car MOT, he saw these shields made for fitting under the car. He thought about getting one, but obviously did not. I don't have information on the garage supplying these shields. The car is now at another garage having a replacement cat' and sensor fitted. It is not a genuine Toyota, but the garage fitting, plus other sources have said, the thieves seem attracted to genuine Toyota cats! Waqar has told me the carpark manager at the leisure centre seemed shifty, whilst another employee seemed more honest and told him, there had been 9 similar thefts! I told Waqar to add this comment when reporting to the police. If there is a pattern, then they could investigate. If the police had the resources, they could put a bait car there, and follow to the scrap dealer. That's what I would want, but in reality things never work like that.

I have the owner's manual for my 2009 Avensis, but have download the later versions which cover most of my car. The EPB has different operation - auto apply when switched off. Hopefully someone might have a spare 2009 to 2011 manual. You could try Ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=toyota+avensis+2010+owners+manual&_sacat=183718

I have not checked the cross member, but there has hardly been any knocking either. What ever the feeling was, I haven't noticed it. Car drives fine and pass the MOT back in March this year, with tyres tread getting close to limit in a few thousand miles. Tyres were replaced in August. If anything shows up, I will post.

When I got my '09 T27 Tourer, I still had my old '98 T22, both 1.8, four years ago. The T22 felt more lively lower down the rev range, but with the T27 real power started from close to 3000 rpm. Fuel economy is roughly the same. I sold the T22, and did a few little things to the T27 to make me feel more at home. I change the oil and filters, using 0w20 grade oil. The spark plugs are Denso iridium plugs and I cleaned the MAF sensor. Also check the tyre pressures. My engine now seems to pull well, and I'm in the next gear up when not needing power. So long as the car keeps up with traffic and goes up hills fine, I am not too fussed. I have been in a T22 and T25 with 1ZZ engine, and they seem to have a good power to weight ratio. My T27 didn't seem any different, but I didn't get to all scenarios. One scenario between my old leanburn and Valvematic was on the motorway. The old car took off in 5th gear, whilst I need to change down to 5th or even 4th to match in the T27. I live near a hilly area and the car copes fine.

It's the vacuum pump ticking. Nothing wrong with the engine. All Valvematic engine have the vacuum pump for the brake servo, because there is not enough vacuum created because the throttle is almost fully open. This is similar to diesel engines, but where diesel engines are control by the amount of fuel inputted, Valvematic engines use the valves to control the amount of air coming in, instead of a throttle. Now you have had the boring technical part out of the way, go and enjoy the engine like I am. As I said before, the ticking is normal.

I have the photos of the car, from Google street view and my dashcam. Car parked in the same spot. Since the car is on Street View, I thought it might be okay to share. The car has VVTI badges and SR style grill and is a facelift.

I noticed a lot of moisture on the inside of the windscreen, the first time I used the car, after not using it for nearly a couple of days. Once the car had warmed up, and the air-con had absorbed most of the moisture in the cabin, all was fine. In fact the air-con demist has been used a lot. There seems to be a lot of moisture in the air. Never noticed it much in previous years. Sometimes the car is not used for day or two, and this is the first cold snap I have experienced in recent years. Once the car interior is very warm (heater set to 24°C) all is fine. I was thinking a getting something to absorb the damp air, but I need to investigate that.

Over the weekend I took a friend to birthday function down in Folkestone. Near the destination I passed a immaculate looking silver Mk1 one late version Avensis hatchback, with alloy wheels and tailgate spoiler. I thought to myself, what a nice looking car, but then snapped out of of it. I am in a nice Avensis myself, and it's couple of generations newer. I could post stills from my dashcam or screen shot from Google street view - car parked in same position, but I don't want to upset any privacy, unless the owner happens to be a member and gives permission. That owner must love that car.

Only the AZ direct injection petrol engines cannot use E10 as detailed in the list. Maybe someone had a problem with an Avensis, and the man at the petrol station thinks all engines are affected.

Worse still, unless you get genuine Toyota filters, a lot of third party filters are for the left hand drive versions! I had this problem, but you might be able to adapt the filter to fit, by cutting off the tabs that are used to push and pull the filter in/out. Glad Toyota changed the system and filter type. Mk1 filters are expensive too!

Hopefully your car brakes will never fail! laso there are other ways of slowing a car down. I am sure that authorities would have banned or forced companies to make an 'emergency brake' alternative. The parking brakes operate on the rear wheels which not as effective as the fronts. That's why it's called parking brake, not emergency! You made a valid argument and I agree with points made. I remember posting negative comments about the EPB, when the T27 was first introduced. Back then I thought my next car would be a late 1.8 T25, but when it came to buy replacement for my T22 1.8, there were quite a few T27 at close to the price of a very good condition T25. I actually nearly went to buy a Honda Civic! The parking brake unit is actually fairly reliable 🤞, any all the issues I have had, are linked but not the unit itself. I have posted my issues and fixes on this site. A couple of tips - avoid deep puddles if you can, and if having any rear brake work, make sure the person doing the work puts everything back correctly. Same goes if clutch is done. There is a sensor for the gearbox that if not connected securely, will flag a fault and disable the auto release. Simple fix of reconnecting and secure the cable to sensor. I hope your car is a well cared for example with regular servicing.

If you are sure your car has the brake rattle, then just buy the kit. It's not expensive, but if you are not sure, buy the silicon grease and apply. If silent after application, then you have your answer. Then you could do as Alan did and re-apply the grease when necessary, which hopefully is a long time. Also helps stop seizing, another effect of lack of lubrication!

With T27 diesels, engine faults and warnings seems to cause what is unrelated systems like the VSC and EPB to throw cautions and be disabled. This makes the owner think something major has happened, when only a service and clean is all that's needed! A diagnostic code reader only helps give direction and it's a common fault on this forum. Looks like EGR and inlet cleaning needed.

Hi I. The question regarding the diesel company testing the injectors as good, could be down to what data they compared to, and is that data correct! Toyota will have more detailed information on your engine, so be able to figure out the injector specs. Plus someone commented in another post to change all the injectors, not just the faulty one. This balances the whole system. When funds are short, then one would have to make do, but the fault may return. Also has the wiring to the injectors been checked! It may explain why the diesel company said the injectors are fine. An auto electrician may back probe the connectors to check the current and signals are getting through. A replacement injector won't fix the problem, if there is a wiring issue! I assume this has been checked. Hopefully everything above has been done and Toyota are dealing with this. I have been watching a few diagnostic YouTubers, and they all seem to to follow a logical approach. Not seen one with your particular engine yet. Good luck and keep us posted. 👍