Konrad C

I have Techstream version 12 on an old netbook. I also used my Launch Creader VIII which can read ABS VSC codes. I recently updated it. I pulled the very same codes, showing the same description as the Techstream. I am still learning what the codes mean, because hybrids are a different beast. I advised Waqar to find a local Prius expert, because this is a little out of my depth. We decided not to erase the codes for now! There are critical systems, plus the brakes being major, just cannot take chances. Add that some areas are high voltage, much more care is needed. So far I have looked at the codes individually, and it seems there could have been a power glitch. The car returned to normal after shutting off, then restarting. The general solution is to check the connections and the earthing, making sure everything is secure. We did replace the front right wheel bear last year, and the left bearing back in 2016. We also replaced rear right spring that had broken, last year. We was careful to replace everything and check the security of every nut, bolt and connection. It would be advisable to check them again. We didn't sped much time yesterday, due to Waqar working, and social distancing. I did help him get his Honda Jazz running, since it had been parked up. Just needs battery replacing which was being delivered.

I have a friends Gen 2 front wheel bearings, we had changed them after confirming they were noisy. It took a bit of elimination and time for them to be loud enough to be sure. If the bearing are confirmed, be prepared for the brute force needed to separate the bearing from the carrier!

I can second that, having test drive a 16 plate Vauxhall Mokka 1.4 Turbo, and compared to my '09 (58 plate) Avensis T27 Valvematic, the controlled are heavier. I even thought the Mokka's brakes were faulty!

I like Mazda so great decision. I was going to buy a Mazda 2, 5 years back but a friend got it. The controls seem to be very similar. I agree. The seller should make sure the car is running properly at point of sale. With the knowledge I have in regards to the idle issue, if the fix worked (I would do it on a test drive), I would return the car to back with the faulty idle, then knock the seller down a lot! I know that's being cheeky, but that's sellers problem! If the fix didn't work, I would walk away too. As i said before, Toyota's with the Valvematic engine, forgets the idle very quickly if the battery falls to a very low level, changed or the ECU fuse is pulled for a couple minutes. The 'fix' takes a few minutes and doesn't need miles of driving. But then the car may have other faults, so overall I would walk away and look for something else.

According to Gates - https://www.gatesautocat.com/search-results/?search_type=vehicle&page=0&make=TOYOTA&model=AVENSIS&vyear=2003&fullseries=_T25_+2.0+D-4D+(CDT250_)+FWD+Hatchback&enginecode=1CD-FTV&litres=2.0&KW=85&PS=116&enginetype=Diesel&source=result Continental - https://www.continental-engineparts.com/eu/en-GB/Automotive-Aftermarket/PIC-Katalog/PIC-Product-Information-Center-1/?lg=en I hope this helps. 👍

All later AD diesel engines are chain and have 6 speed gearboxes. The earlier CD diesel will have a belt and only 5 gears! Alan you were nearly there, but you gave the easiest way to identify what engines you have. 👍

I assume your car is TR spec as the seats have the same material as mine. I have not noticed my drivers seat staining like yours. I get dust build up where the seat base meets the backrest. It's easily cleaned. I will look at my seats later and try any suitable cleaner I have.

I recently checked the catch again, and it is working as intended. It is greased, and the spring that helps the hook hold is good. The bonnet springs up on release, but is help by the catch hook until I release that. If the hook has a weak spring and the pivot sticking, make sure it is cleaned and see if the spring can be made stronger. I rather the catch need a bit a force to release. As I said before, that catch hook did it's job and held the bonnet down. When I close the bonnet, I press down then try and lift to make sure the bonnet lock has engaged properly. It would be wise to check the bonnet is secured after a garage has had the car, because if the mechanic is busy, rushing or distracted, s/he may not have closed the bonnet properly, though most tend to slam it shut!

I don't know the torque setting, but I use hand tight with a new fibre washer for my petrol Avensis. Don't use too much force because it will be hard to undo on next oil change, plus the threads could be stripped! You can get an idea by gauging how much force was used to undo the bolt, tighten, then see if you can match the first undo force. Use as a rough guide. Since the engine is BMW sourced, see if there is any info on BMW sites.

I can't give the official guidance, but I have replaced brakes of my earlier 2009 Avensis which has semi auto EPB. I also do brakes on other makes of vehicles, with similar brake setup and also have EPB like a Renault Grand Scenic. Depending on the EPB, those with auto apply will need to enter a service mode, the the parking brake is released. Here is a page from the owners manual detailing how cancel auto engage - Some mechanics use diagnostic laptops to release the brakes, but since there is a release method as explained above, and most people don't have diagnostics. You need brake rewind kit with both left and right handed thread! These are easy to get especially online here in the UK. There are a few videos on YouTube showing how replace the brakes. When winding back the pistons, make sure the cutouts are in line vertically, so the protrusions on the back of the inner pistons fit within the cutouts. This aids reassembly and prevents uneven wear. This piston on a Vauxhall Corsa VXR has the piston not correctly wound back. The cutouts should be horizontal. The piston need to be turned 45 degrees. The following photo shows a photo in the correct position :- The piston is in the correct orientation to the caliper. The Avensis is the same. The pin on the back of the brake pad. This is for the Corsa VXR, but the Avensis has a pair, shown in another photo. The following photos will show the premature wear caused when the piston is in the wring position :- The Corsa was worse than my Avensis, because there is no anti wear like the Avensis! Also the outer pads were hardly worn compared to the inner pads. After assembly and everything has been checked. Pump the brake pedal and apply the EPB, holding the switch for a few seconds. Repeat a couple of times. Now here is the warning. Do not use any reset mode on any general handheld diagnostic device to 'reset' the EPB, unless it states it will calibrate Avensis parking brakes! It will render the EPB manual only, and there will be cautions and warnings. Codes C1336 G sensor zero point calibration undone and C1346 Zero point calibration of clutch stroke sensor undone. Laptop based diagnostic software like Toyota Techstream has the proper function to 'calibrate' the brakes, but it is not necessary, when most don't have such equipment. Just do the basic and you will be fine. My brakes have been fine since I have replaced them. You just need to pay attention to the minor details.

Further to my email, you can source a switch from Ebay at a very reasonable price - https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=84450-02010&_sacat=0 All you need is to find someone competent enough to fit it!

I think prices have gone up and that seems to be Toyota labour prices too! Even though I am not a mechanic, I managed to replace the ignition switch on my old Mk1 Avensis in 20 minutes. I paid £45 inc VAT from the dealer at the time. If you read my post above, I bought a switch from a Jap parts shop, but even though it looked identical, the electrical pin outs were different. I compared the pin out legends of both, and the + - and signals were on different pins. I also did another post on this subject.

There are sites like ToyoDIY, 7zap and the following where you can obtain info - http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2008/avensis/adt251r-awfqxw/3_273550_145_352W/powertrain-chassis/4708_brake-tube-clamp/2#47313P

I should mention that the Mokka 2016 model, had full brake replacement front and rear, including brake fluid change within last couple of years!

I have the C-HR brochure (UK 2019) and it confirms everything listed for the UK market. In the UK for the Avensis (no longer sold) as an example, the lowest grade misses a kit and features of things and won't even get them as an option. Some people don't care, others do. Unfortunately the OP somehow, thought his grade 'Design' would have the features of the higher spec cars. Maybe he saw the info on a non UK sight, and assumed his car should have them too? When looking at buying a car (new or secondhand), I would look at what each spec offers, then decide on the spec that meets my needs. As an example my car is TR and has everything I wanted. The lowest spec T2 misses a lot of things of the TR like cruise control, Bluetooth, rear electric windows, and alloy wheels for example. I checked these before searching for my car. One thing when buy a new car from a dealer is test driving the highest spec car, but buying a far lower spec! If the buyer is not knowledgeable, he/she will be expecting the same features. I am putting out my perspective, and hope it was helpful.