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Konrad C

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Konrad C last won the day on June 2 2021

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  • First Name
    Konrad
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    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Avensis Tourer TR Valvematic 1.8 T27
  • Toyota Year
    2009
  • Location
    Greater London
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  1. How many miles has your car covered. My Avensis 1.8 Valvematic Tourer (2009 - '58 plate) has cover at least 99,511 miles, and apart from the minor idle problem runs very well. I have always used fully synthetic 0w20 oil every oil change with very little need for oil top up, between changes. It could be luck of the draw and a few cars have issues. Considering the engine was designed to run on 0w20, I would be very reluctant to use a heavier engine oil, especially as the oil goes through the Valvematic controllers and other parts of the engine. 10w40 is probably the heavier but fine for UK temperatures. Hope the car runs fine and the smoke emissions are low. What are the MOT exhaust emissions?
  2. I think is correct about the synchro or the clutch not releasing enough. The point about 1st gear synchro going first could be true, because the car is not moving, giving time for the driver to select gear. Now if the first gear does not crunch while stationary and second gear does while also stationary, then second gear synchro is at fault. Also pump the clutch pedal to find out if the gear change improves. Another factor is how the driver adapts to the new clutch after it has been replaced. The pedal will need to be press fully down, where as the clutch had a high biting point previously. Hopefully the gearbox oil was replaced during the clutch replacement. All things point to the gearbox if the clutch side of things are okay.
  3. I think some or one connection has not been put back properly. In my case, the gear position sensor was not securely connected. - I would look at the earth straps and any connections, in the area worked on when the clutch was replaced. The problem with some, can the garage that did the work be trusted to find the problem and rectify the faults? With the help of a friend who happen to be an auto electrician, I corrected the faults myself. I have since got the diagnostic tools to deal with my car. Hopefully this will give you direction.
  4. I would find an auto electrician with diagnostics like Techstream, who can solve the door open warning light. For as far back as my previous '98 Mk1 Avensis, there has been wiring adapter cable available to fit other stereos. The adapter cable works on most Avensis from T22 to T27. Problem is some people are ignorant and lazy to find this solution, not doing a little research, using old outdated methods. On later cars there are additional interface adapters for steering controls. Also safer, reducing shorts and other faults.
  5. Check the 7.5a dome fuse located in the engine compartment fuse box. Another issue is that the early Mk1 T22 (pre facelift), can have issues with the interior dome light that can short, due to the design. I replaced my dome light unit with a different design. Here is the original post to which I replied -
  6. The sump plug washer I use is fibre washer type. Overall diameter is 24mm, 13mm inner hole diameter. I bought a pack of the washers from Ebay a few years ago. I think they are M12 washers. I have used them on my old Mk1 '98 Avensis, my current Valvematic, and two different Nissan Micra's (1.4 and 1.2 triple).
  7. I had a failing water pump on my Valvematic and changed the pump and belt myself. It was not difficult to do and I did a lot of preparation before doing the work - parts, tools, coolant and de-ionised water. Unfortunately I cannot say much for the diesel version.
  8. I was one of the replies and posted the photos showing me cleaning the MAF sensor. I have a new recent issue when stationary during a journey, the engine will suddenly increase to just over 2000 rpm then settle back down to normal idle - like I press the accelerator pedal then released it. The only thing is the stereo and dash cam. No heater or air-con, the engine is at normal temperature. I will be doing my own checks and gather some information. This sudden rise in revs happens a few times or none at all. Performance is fine otherwise. No jerking and using local Morrison's E10 fuel. I have plenty of diagnostic options available to me, so it just my time and check connections and vacuum leaks. The car 2009 '58 plate 1.8 Valvematic, owned is 2015. All fluid levels are good and the oil is just a little below maximum since I changed it back in July 2021. Basically I have not needed to top up the oil (0w-20). Car is on 99'000 miles. When and if find something, I will get back here or make a new post.
  9. I meant to say contaminated fuel. Talking of fuel, did your car have the recall mine had 3 years ago?
  10. I would say to check the MAF sensor by cleaning. Techstream can do tests and checks, but you need to know what you are doing. I the Valvematic control has a problem, it would normally throw a code. A few ZR engines 2010 - 2011 have had V-matic controller issues, I noted from posts from various forums - Auris and Avensis. What about contaminated few?
  11. I remember the following post -
  12. I have the petrol version T27 2009 Tourer. I change the car battery, an Exide I got from Tayna. The only issue I had was that the ECU had to relearn the idle settings. I found a quick way to reset the idle back to normal. Nothing else was needed. The radio is not coded, just need to do radio memory presets. The windows will need the quick down hold then up hold to Parking brake not affected. The diesel might not be affected at all.
  13. The first thing I thought of, is the high pressure side of the fuel system may not be delivering a high enough. I am not sure of the figures, but just checked a couple of sources. https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/04-11-20_faq_az_eng.htm Second source is from the Haynes manual for the Mk1 using the same engine. From the fuel tank 3.7 - 4.2 bar. High pressure side delivery 95.2 -104.8 bar. Remember this is for the T22 using the same engine. The link states 8 - 13 MPa. You need to convert the figures. 1 megapascal = 10 bar. This means you are getting 7MPa (70 Bar), according to a unit convertor. That sound low. Going by what you have, the pressure is down. Also check other items mention in the link included above.
  14. Adding to Tony's advice, you should check your owners manual for light bulbs wattage. My car which is a Mk3 2009 (58 plate) Avensis T27, has H11 55w halogen bulbs. Your car looks to have the same bulbs. Most good motor factors will try and supply the correct part, but some can get it wrong. 6 years ago, a shop I went to, assume my car was Mk2 T25, because it was a 58 plate. The guy behind the counter argued with me, the owner who knows what car I drive! He gave me the wrong parts. When I went back with all the info and a mechanic friend who confirmed what my car was, he didn't seem to handle the fact he was wrong. Another staff got the correct parts. I hardly use the shop since.
  15. Just found this topic when exploring other parts of the forum. This has been answered many times and here is the following thread.
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