Konrad C

I have Techstream, but had sold sold my old '98 Avensis 3 years ago, so cannot test to see if it works. During my ownership of my Mk1 Avensis, any issues were diagnosed using the paperclip trick and list of codes. To think you can check an EML practically for nothing. The only advantage of using a reader that works over the paperclip method, is the speed of getting the codes, if there are more than one code stored. Vauxhall has self diagnostics which doesn't need a reader. I used that method on a friends car, and it gives the same code as using an OBD2 reader.

I would get the existing wheels refurbished and stick with the same tyre size. I bought a secondhand wheel so I had a fifth alloy, though it is a different colour.of the same design. It came in handy a few times, when I had to wait a couple of days for a replacement tyre. Anything is better than the space saver that comes with the car. A full size wheel fits without the tool tray.

Look at this if the divider valve is faulty -

Last year I had a similar problem with the left nozzle, so removed both nozzles to check and clean. I also checked the hoses and connections. I looked at the hose where it runs at the bonnet hinge to make sure it was not kinked or damaged. The actual nozzles didn't look blocked, and I put them back on opposite sides - left to right and visa versa. After reassembly, everything worked better. I only use pre mixed washer fluids.

I personally stick with the correct grade/specification for my 2009 Avensis 1.8 Valvematic - 0w-20, as stated in the owner's manual. Every oil change apart from the first where I used Triple QX 0w-20 fully synthetic, Petronas Syntium 7000 fully synthetic 0w-20 grade, all from Euro Car Parts. I used the ECP Ebay site and paid only £22.99 for 5 litres. It takes a few days for delivery, but a massive saving. With a complicated engine like the 1.2T, you would want the best and recommended protection!

I wouldn't moan too much about the fuel consumption of the Avensis auto or manual. On the face book page somebody with a 2.0l litre saloon is also getting 44 mpg on a 220 mile round trip. My car (manual) average 36 mpg, and goes higher on long runs. I see smaller cars with smaller engines like Ford Fiesta 1.0l turbo barely getting 30 mpg!

I wonder if the sliders are seized or the the brakes were hot? When the discs are hot then cool down, they may shrink enough for the pads to not enough clamping force. Also looks at the cables and linkage. I have noticed that the EPB unit itself is not really the cause of any faults, but other parts or systems linked to it. No matter what type of parking brake (electric or handbrake), I do as Mike suggests when on inclines and leave the car in gear.

The auto lock feature can be disabled. It should be in your owner's manual if you have it. I would disable the auto lock feature and see if the issue persists, before doing any extra work and spending money. The auto lock has a mode which keeps the passenger doors locked, until the driver has press the door lock switch on the drivers door. This post may help.

Yes. I checked to makes sure. You should have made this a new subject!

The DTC's are off because the fault code has been cleared or erased. The DTC's could return if the fault is still present, if the parameters are not met. This may happen when driving! The Valvematic engine has two controllers as shown in the following picture - The part numbers begin with 11101J - http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2010/avensis/zrt271r-aefepw/2_273560_038_410W/tool-engine-fuel/1104_cylinder-head#11101J I am not sure how they fail, but to help prevent any possible problems, I stick to using 0W-20 grade fully synthetic oil and do regular oil changes. Let's hope it is not expensive to fix.

This is an old post, but just in case anybody comes across it whilst searching for a solution, my fix was to use Techstream (old to up to date) with a Mini-VCI J2534 USB to OBD cable. Techstream simply removed the caution lights, and did a proper 'reset' that other diagnostics caused and could not fix. I mistakenly thought that my Launch would 'reset' the EPB after changing the rear brake pads, and caused the same issue as the others on this post. I have a notebook with Delphi that has the proper software, but the battery needed charging, so use the Launch. That was when I loaded an 'old' version of Techstream and learnt how to use it before fixing the fault. Even the Delphi or the jumper wire (paper clip) and pedal trick didn't work. It's going to happen to somebody in the future and hopefully this will give them an idea of how to fix the fault. For those who read this, but not have the fault, don't use the wrong diagnostics to 'reset the EPB' unless the software states it can calibrate. I only know that Techstream and Delphi can do this! After changing rear pads, just leave alone if you don't want a headache.

I am not an expert by a long stretch, but have experienced a few EPB issues, and they always seem to be related to something else. some pro level diagnostics though good, don't always get everything specific to a particular brand or model, especially if they are not updated. I use Techstream, and that is the best being Toyota's own diagnostic software. I used my Launch diagnostic tool which I wrongly thought it could reset my EPB after a brake pad change, but it wiped the clutch and g-force zero point setting (I known your car is auto) - . If you read my reply in the post above, you will note that Techstream was my saviour. I think your diagnostics results are fairly accurate, and just needs to test the various components, to confirm the actual fault. Electrical and electronic faults can be a pain to find in modern cars. You mention the fault happened after jet wash. The problem with high pressure water, is the water can get through any openings without you knowing it happening. Check all the rear lights and earthing, plus all earths around the car. Look for any damaged wiring. Check all the connections and plugs. I would pull the battery for a few minutes, to see if it will clear the ECUs. You will have to drive the car to relearn the engine profiles. Basically try any cheap fixes before moving to big fixes. I hope it's not the cam/vvti controllers!

I can say from my post this year, my rear brakes were changed after only 3 years, due improper installation. I made sure they were done right this time, though I might check the sliders very soon.

I repaired mine a couple of months back - Look for my repair post.

Even though the car has what looks like the OBD2 socket, it will not be OBD2 compatible. This is the same for my previous Mk1 T22 '98 Avensis pre facelift, with the non VVti engine. Mine was was the 7A-FE leanburn. What I did to check any fault codes, was to use a wire to link pins 4 and 13, then turn the key to 'IGN'. The EML(CEL), ABS and SRS lights will flash. If a fault code is stored, the 2 sets of flashes will will happen for the relevant system. So for the EML to flash twice, quick pause then once, will mean code 21, which means the O2 sensor is faulty. For the ABS, it will have the same two number flash for the system including which wheel sensor could be at fault. To add to this, if the ABS light is permanently on during the test, the ABS brain is dead! I had this happen to me, so I got one from the breakers yard and fitted it within a couple of hours. I am not sure if you have the same problem. To clear stored ABS faults after repair, whilst in diagnostic mode with ABS flashing stored codes, press the brake pedal 8 times within 3 seconds, and the ABS should begin to flash quickly and constantly with no pauses, and there may be a beep. This is useful for non OBD2 cars - https://www.auto-manual.com/fault-codes/error-codes-toyota/ .