Konrad C

I would check the spark plugs condition to see how contaminated with oil they are. I would also check the breather pipe system, and the EGR (which I only recently discovered was on this petrol engine). The catalytic convertor may need cleaning/changing. Just changing the O2 sensors, when they could be tested, seems a waste of money. The O2 sensors made no difference and confirmed the fault code - the catalytic convertor is not working within set parameters. A compression test may reveal if the piston rings are good. The breather system can cause pressure build up, forcing oil into the combustion chamber via the valve guides. Basically everything needs to be checked and if necessary rectified. When buying a car close to 10 years old, wear and tear is expected, but you never know if the car has been cared for or driven. Has any of the previous owners maintained the service history or ignored regular oil changes and other items? At least you bought your car from a dealer, so should have some comeback.

Hello Sam again. There are plenty of options, but it is how you want to go about fixing a socket. I will show you where you can tap off the storage box power socket. The following photo is from when I was fitting a USB socket extension, in place of the AUX only socket in the storage box for my USB adapter project, 3 years ago. The rear of the power socket (brown) where the cable connects. This is where you might want to attach the extension from. Here is an example of the USB socket extension kit you want to fit - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DGNQNLR/ref=asc_df_B07DGNQNLR57375602/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22146&creativeASIN=B07DGNQNLR&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309902997323&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10349297347498929172&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-523974741251 You may need a kit with long cable if tapping from another power source and the kit need the space to fit! Here is a diagram of the console storage box. You would need to drill a suitable hole just under the ashtray. I was was going to say replace the ashtray, negating the need of drilling, but it needs more work/thinking. Another idea is to find a way to route the a USB cable from the power socket (drilling a hole in the storage box). As I said these are ideas, and hopefully you find a suitable way. Konrad👍

With demisting, the Avensis uses the aircon by default, with the correct setting. The heating, ventilation and air-con system, needs to be in good working order. That means the filters changed, the system clean, the drainage system clear and not blocked, and the air-con gas at optimum level and good pressure. Also regular use of the air-con helps as the gas and oils help with the sealing. Also checking around the car for moisture which may indicate a possible ingress of water. Places like windows, door seals, plus the rear light seals. Check the boot area and rear vents in the wheel arch area. Going through deep puddles can add to the problem. Also make sure the brakes are not binding! An Auris that is two years old should be in good order, unless it has been abused, been in a serious crash and rebuilt, a badly made car! Demisting problem and poor fuel economy does not sound good for a car of that age. I had an old '98 Avensis from 2003 until 2016 and apart from age related wear and tear, plus gearbox at around 120,000 miles, has served me well. My current Mk3 estate is doing well so far. Even now I am getting 36.5 mpg in London stop start traffic. I would be very disappointed if had an Auris like Danny's and get the problems he is reporting. I would expect to be around 40+ mpg.

Sounds like the CD players are getting old. Wear and tear, plus a lack of lubrication on the moving parts. Also the laser head may need cleaning.

You really need the diesel or turbo petrol from what you are stating. What is your driving style and the where you drive?

If I drive along in too high a gear and off throttle or slowing down, if the ECU detects the engine below say 1000 rpm, the ECU tries to raise the engine revs. If you did the clutch whilst this is happening, the engine revs go to about 2000 rpm for a few seconds before falling to idle. This same system kicks in when the air-con is running, though not as high revs. From the sound of things, the 1.8 Valvematic in my tourer is in good order compared to yours.

Here are some things I have experienced with my car, and will share with you. The engines power is defined by it's torque as well as where the torque and maximum power occurs in the rev range. The valvematic has 147 hp (108kw) @ 6400 rpm, 133 lbft (180nm) @ 4000 rpm. Now add the weight of the car and the gearing. I tend to drive in low rpm 1500 - 2000 rpm, changing up early unless more power is called for. I have to be careful, because the engine anti stalling causes the car to *****. I cleaned the MAF sensor back in August, keep an I on the tyre pressures. My car average fuel consumption is 37 mpg with mainly outer London driving and stop/start traffic. The throttle response is okay,, but if you really need to really accelerate hard, you need to get the revs well above 3000 rpm. Another improvement since the clean, is not having to come out of 6th gear on the motorway as much. Yes I still change down when necessary. Here is a link to me cleaning the MAF sensor. I used CRC MAF cleaner. - The engine also has induction features linked to the vacuum piping. Check those. The vacuum is a little easier and cheaper than the Valvematic system which can be expensive. On a lighter note, there are 1.6 versions, and I wonder what they are like to drive?

There is a simple test I did when I had a faulty windscreen washer on my old Mk1 Avensis. I accessed the reservoir via the front wheel liner. Then I reversed the plugs to the two washer pumps. Then I activated the rear washer/wipe function or front in your case. What will happen, is the front wiper and rear washer or rear wiper and front washer will activate. This will confirm the electric is good, and the pump is dead. In my case I replaced nonfunctioning pump motor. These are more likely to fail, compared to the actual fuse. Make sure put the connectors back in their proper front/rear motors after testing! I should mention that hatchback/estate cars have two pumps, not one as mentioned in another post. When you get a replacement washer pump, factor in washer fluid since you will have to drain the reservoir. I never use water alone, unless there is no option. The poster though an Avensis owner has a Yaris, but the same info still applies.

It can be fixed if you know what you are doing. The contacts are worn. I replaced the indicator and light stalk, because my friend who does MOT told me that it was also affecting the lights. I replaced it with a stalk from a Mk1 facelift. There is a difference if your car is a prefacelift and have front fog lights, to the later models. They are fully compatible, but there is no extra switch box on the later versions. If your car doesn't have front fogs, you can use any Mk1 stalk. When I have time, I will find my post on this. It has photos detailing what I said above.

I just noticed you have posted on Facebook too. When changing any gasket, the mating surfaces need to be clean. But if the noise still happens, check the exhaust thoroughly. Still check other possibilities I mentioned above.

I have done manifolds on different cars, most recently changing a friends 2005 Smart ForFour Brabus (177 hp). If you are going to remove the nut/bolts/studs, stray plenty of plus gas, WD40 or similar at least a couple of hours before. That's what I did on my old Avensis, spray the night before. Good quality sockets and spanners that minimize rounding of the nuts help too. Looking for a crack can be difficult. The crack could be on the underside. You need to get the car up on a lift or use a mirror to inspect the whole manifold. The car need to be under load, with a wide open throttle to really hear the noise, I suspect. Another source of noise can come from the induction side. Check the throttle body and inlet manifold. Also check the vacuum system, and the engine(PCV) vent pipes.

Your car has a service mode, as detailed in your owners handbook. This service mode leaves the parking brake off until the work is finished. You can do the work you need to do.

My car has behaved most of the time, but occasionally it revs at about 1.5k when I come to a stop. Also on light throttle at too high a gear, the engine hiccups, like it is trying not to stall, then when I did the clutch to change down, it revs off load. If I change down, then the engine stays smooth and revs drop instantly. Does the same if I come to a halt and press the clutch just before stalling. I think it is the ECU anti-stall. I also thought of the throttle pedal sensor. I have diagnostics that can check this. Mine is fine.

As David stated, unless the flywheel has been damaged by the clutch rivets, this should be a clutch only job. The flywheel is standard - 'Not' dual mass flywheel. Also remember, this should be cheap since the Citroen C1 and Peugeot 107 are the same car. Parts should be inexpensive. I did a quick search and found this - https://clutch-repair.co.uk/2018/09/18/clutch-fault-c1-aygo-107/ Ask for the old parts when the job is done. This will tell you what the condition of the clutch. I did when my Avensis was done last year.

I try to avoid traffic and anticipate situations, the best I can. I change the oil once a year - I only do 8000 miles a year. I use 0w-20 grade oil preferred by Toyota, as per owners manual. Be aware, that some dealers may use 5w-30. I once tested the parts man at my local dealer, and he got the grade wrong for my car. He said that 0w-20 is for the hybrids! You car has a turbo and produces more torque at lower revs, so should be more efficient. Every little helps.