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Konrad C

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Everything posted by Konrad C

  1. Hi Michael, if you go to my profile, you can find a lot of posts on various subjects. My car is one of the early T27 TR Tourer (estate), being a '58 plate (Jan 2009). I took ownership September 2015, when it had 52,000miles. It is on 96,000 miles. Fuel consumption is 35mpg with mainly local driving. Range with full tank shows over 400 miles with full tank, but have gone a lot further doing long drives on the motorway. Where I live is hilly. I do all my own general servicing - oil (0w-20 fully synthetic) and filter, air and cabin filters. Spark plugs change every four years with Denso iridium plugs. Coolant change happened when I replace the water pump and auxiliary belt. I periodically check the tyre pressures and have 35psi all round or close. I extra change is I got a full size alloy in place of the space saver. I had a puncture on the rear and the space saver felt horrible, even for the 5 miles of use to get the repair. Remember with front wheel puncture, it is best to put the space saver on the rear, then put the rear wheel to replace the front! That is why I got the full size spare. Auto EPB means the parking brake auto releases on the early manual versions, then the facelift versions added auto engage. Another problem with the early non-NAV versions of the early TR spec cars, is the Bluetooth only supported voice calls and depending on the phone like my old Nokia Lumia, voice navigation, not music. I had to add a Bluetooth USB adapter via the CD changer port, at the rear of the stereo. For me, this gives me the best infotainment experience with little outlay. Better navigation options with Google Drive, Here WeGo and Waze. Only thing missing for some is no reversing camera. That's my experience with my car, but as I mentioned above, there are other topic I have posted on.
  2. As an owner of a 2009 manual 1.8 Valvematic, I find the engine fairly smooth overall, but could do with more torque. Occasionally the engine will hold the revs when coming to a stop, but this only happens once in a while. For the engine to run rough as you say is unusual, so there is a problem. But your meaning of rough could be the on/off nature of the fly by wire throttle causing jerky progress. My car does it when cruising along at town speeds under light throttle inputs in higher gears - like engine movement and drive line backlash. You could try and clean the MAF sensor using something like CRC MAF sensor cleaner. That is what I did. Also in another recent post where the driver of a manual like mine stalls the engine, I advised the same plus check the inlet and vacuum pipes for leaks and are secure.
  3. Not really necessary and the wrong diagnostic kit could actually cause a lot of problems! What is more important is having the correct piston wind back tool for left and right handed screw threads, and that the pistons are wound back so the cut outs are horizontal to the callipers. With the piston properly aligned, thepin of the back if the inner brake pad will fit within the cut out, which aids assembly. The post will explain.
  4. I was correct, but as Scott said, the Valvematic engine has little low down torque and not responsive to pedal inputs all the time. I have got used to my car. Here is the image of the accelerator pedal didn't appear properly in my previous reply. http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/2/781240C.png Here is my post from the past -
  5. If you could afford it, and unless the other coils have been replaced previously, I would replace all the coils! Anyway, glad you have sorted the problem.
  6. I would guess the engine is Valvematic petrol. My car does not exhibit the 'flat spot' like you have described. I have stalled my car a few times, especially early when I first got the car. The stalls normally happen during slow manoeuvres, plus I was still using my old Mk1 leanburn for a while, until I sold it. A couple of times recently, I had let the clutch up without really putting enough revs, and the 'anti-stall' kicked in revving the engine. The engine sometimes holds revs for a few seconds before dropping to idle. The throttle can be a little jerky when driving in on light throttle while driving along. I have cleaned the MAF sensor a couple time in the past. It has been mentioned that their is an ECU update, but I don't know if my car has had it done. Generally the car drives fine and at normal town speeds I tend to be in high gears and low revs, once moving. If I need more power/torque, I then select the appropriate gear. I would try cleaning the MAF sensor using CRC MAF cleaner, check the inlet hose from the air filter to the throttle body and the vacuum hoses. Finally get diagnostics check, looking at the throttle pedal. http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/2/781240C.png
  7. Cruise control is one of the things I was not fussed about, but it's nice to have. When I bought my car second hand, I checked the equipment level and the TR spec was the best to go for, so ignored the T2, which misses so much for me. I have the original brochure in PDF form so I knew what I was getting. I did add a couple of thing missing, because I have the standard stereo (no navigation and reverse camera). I added a Bluetooth/USB adapter so get a better infotainment and navigation via my phone, and a Fresnel lens at the rear window. The thing I am missing is folding mirrors, but that is minor for me. I rather the cruise control be standard, because it is so integrated to the car for safety reasons, plus all the cruise control indication light functions. The car has to exception condition for me to buy it in a lower spec!
  8. Since the person has not posted in a while, I will give my own answer just in case there is no response. Generally a weak battery will cause a lot of problems. First start on cold mornings is a high current draw. I would assume the battery has been replaced, but dirtbiker (Jakub) has not replied to if and how he solved the solution. I had a weak battery last year, and depending how depleted the battery is, once the engine has started, some drivers have the heater running, lights and radio on, so trying to release the parking brake is another draw. Also the EPB system detects the power is low, so flashes a warning. Usually the alternator charges the battery in a few moments, so the EPB light stops flashing and there is enough power to release power brake. I had a mini jump starter that helped me until I replaced the battery. My car is 1.8 Valvematic. You have a warning, so either have a suitable jump starter or replace the battery.
  9. If you check one of my posts in this forum, I added a Bluetooth adapter because the original Bluetooth has very limited phone only function, no music or other sound functions. My current Bluetooth adapter (I updated to a later version), does 3 beeps with the first minute after starting up, muting the music each time. The beeping didn't happen with the Samsung S8, and it didn't happen with my Samsung S20FE 5G at first. It started after the an update in March this year. I am using a Wefa Bluetooth/USB adapter. In my case the phone is the cause. Otherwise the Bluetooth works fine. I keep all my dashcam footage so was able to review when the beeps started.
  10. The email I used was - CustomerService@dartford-crossing-charge.service.gov.uk I keep all important emails for record purposes. Another bit of advice if you have a prepare account. Due to the pandemic from last year, some people have changed their travel and probably not used the crossing as much. If you have a Dartcharge account and not used it in a long time, log in to the account and check the status. This is because if no crossing activity in a year, the account is suspended, even if you have funds in the account! They are supposed to contact you as a reminder, but don't count on that. I ride my bicycle a lot, passing the Woolwich Ferry and even using it occasionally. Most times it is a one boat service, plus there is a dispute with the longer serving staff, meaning no service on select days. When running the wait time can be long on busy days. Bit surprised this subject came up, but happy to answer.
  11. I was looking in the owners manual PDF (T27 Avensis) regarding another subject, and came across this under Refueling - I then checked my actual paper back version, which is the first version for the T27, and found the same info regarding E10 fuel - X Gasoline engine EU area: Unleaded gasoline conforming to European standard EN228, Research Octane Number of 95 or higher Except EU area: Unleaded gasoline, Research Octane Number of 95 or higher ■Use of ethanol blended gasoline in a gasoline engine Toyota allows the use of ethanol blended gasoline where the ethanol content is up to 10%. Make sure that the ethanol blended gasoline to be used has a Research Octane Number that follows the above. So all Valvematic engines should have no issue using E10 fuel, which has been available in other markets outside UK for sometime.
  12. I too wanted to know why early gasoline direct injection engines (GDI) are incompatible with E10, and found the following:- https://autotechnician.co.uk/forewarned-is-forearmed-e10-petrol/ All of the incompatible GDI engines are no longer produced, or have been updated. The problem is, there are cars still on the road with these engines, plus not every fuel station supplies the premium (still E5) petrol in a lot of locations! GDI engines already have other problems, like carbon build up in the inlet manifold and valves.
  13. Toyota are not the only ones. Other manufacturers have similar direct injection engines made in the late 90's, early to mid 2000's that are also not compatible with E10. Ford, Vauxhall(Opel), Mitsubishi(Volvo), Volkswagen to name a few have engines that are not compatible. Toyota for me are far from the worse as very few models used the 1AZ/2AZ engines. Volkswagen Audi Group are the worse, because they have both direct injection (not compatible to E10) and non-direct injection (compatible), of the same capacity in the same models. Not many owners are technical minded, bothered or even aware what engines they have or even if the fuel is different. The first an unaware owner of an incompatible car will know, is when the car has engine and running problems!
  14. I am glad you figured it out. Yes your amp can take audio straight from head units without line out - high input port. Everything is plug and play these days, so cut and splicing. As mentioned by Bob, Toyota have used a general standard to plug head units for a long time, for the power and speaker connections. The extra plugs for more advanced features have been added over time. I did my own little update when I got my Avensis, by adding my Bluetooth/USB adapter to get a lot of features. Hope your upgrade works out.
  15. The last time I heard about this, was near a transmitter mast. But if this happens in other locations, so long as there are no masts, I would look at the fuel pump, and the cam/crank sensors. Since the car is at the dealers, they can check on diagnostics.
  16. Personally I wouldn't buy a Mk2 T25 now, especially in the UK and where I live in Greater London, since the diesel version is not ULEZ compliant! Does Sweden have similar laws against older diesels? On the other hand, if Sweden petrol is E10 with E5 being premium, then go for diesel. The AZ direct injection petrol engine is not compatible with E10 fuel! If you are not towing, what about 1.8 1ZZ petrol? The body a need to be corrosion free.
  17. Learned something new. If this can happen, I would make a note to turn off the auto lights and auto wipers to reduce the risk of this happening. Even though this happened in New Zealand, I am sure UK dealers may be aware! I have never had the idle fluctuating during warm up, only the momentary high idle when coming to a stop with a warm engine, once in a while.
  18. 1.8 '58 Valvematic Tourer. I last filled up on the 18th September, but not the slow brim to thevery top. I have done around 100 miles to date and have about ¾ - ⅔ of a tank remaining. I only use the car for essential trips and do any shopping during that time. Otherwise I ride my bike or walk. When we had the last fuel shortage, I didn't queue nor panic buy. I just planned everything carefully. All those people queuing, either were caught short, especially the ones who only put in a tenner and are always running on empty, those doing a lot of trips and have no other choice. It's the selfish drivers who don't need the extra fuel, plus the news media who are the problem. The shortage of tanker drivers didn't happen overnight! Any seen the Phil McCann BBC reporter joke? 😂
  19. I agree with Bernard Foy, but if the trim is removed and put back carefully without looking disturbed, using suitable trim tools. Then basic electrical checks can be done. Anyway I have had to put right my rear seat and seat belt, after it went in for the fuel suction recall. So nobody including the dealers are perfect! http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2009/avensis/zrt271r-awfepw/2_273560_041_410W/body/6708_back-door-panel-glass/2 http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/2/675824A.pnghttp://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/2/742621A.png I have not had the need to remove the inner panels, but going by my experience from my previous car, remove any screws normal embedded in the grab handles, the with the trim tool or similar, pop the panel clips.
  20. Great idea, but with my car - 1.8 Valvematic, the engine sump is not the lowest point. Going by the diagrams and photos, there is no access hatch to the oil filter and drain plug, as with the current plastic shield fitted to my car, even though one is mentioned. You have to be very unlucky or going too fast, to have something strike the sump! A shield further back to block access to the catalytic convertor would be more useful, even though the T27 is hardly targeted compared to hybrids or Honda Jazz!
  21. If you are looking at an early T27, there seems to be a known issue for some Valvematic engines built 2010/11 having Valvematic controller issues. This has also happened to Auris with the Valvematic. I have one of the earliest T27 1.8 tourer, and it is running well. Had the clutch replaced 4 years back, The EPB (parking brake) works fine, but had issues caused by other faults, but not the EPB unit itself! The early cars have cracks on the front doors, in the door strap area. If caught early and within warranty, replacement doors. It is easily missed, so other measures taken are larger washers or welding in worse cases. The driving experience depends on the induvial. I know the engine and it fine when driven at normal traffic speeds. You will need to rev it to get the extra power, especially laden, but once above 3,000 rpm the engine is lively. The gearing is a bit high from 4 to 6, so at fast road speeds, you need to drop a gear or two to over take. On the other hand, I tend to shift up early and use low revs most of the time, changing up early or just as the gear change indicators appears. I cannot speak for the CVTauto version. You need to test drive the car for yourself. Servicing for me as a DIYer is very easy, but you need to get the oil filter tool (cheap on Ebay). I use the preferred oil grade of 0w20. Read my posts to see my experience, since I own my car from 2015. The hard bit is moving on to another car.
  22. Can you give reports on experience over the coming months please? Your car could be a sort of actual test, to see if and what the affects of E10 on components, performance and economy. How long you have been using E10 fuel? I am sure it takes time, for any issues to take affect. Must add that Toyota should add the specific reason why E10 is a problem, like seals, gaskets, metal or material being eroded by E10.
  23. I forgot that I even replied to that one. I have used my car a lot less since March 2020. I even cycle more than I drive!
  24. 6 speed manual. Check my profile for posts. Sorry for the late reply. Been busy.
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