Konrad C

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Everything posted by Konrad C

  1. That's not good. My old battery was a Platinum battery which I think was supplied by National Tyres, well before I owned the car back in 2015. I replaced it with Exide Premium at a good price from Tayna Batteries plus delivery, just over a month ago. Same battery from Euro Car Parts would cost far more, even with discount!
  2. C1336 and C1346 = zero point calibration of clutch and g-force sensor. I had those same codes after using the wrong diagnostic (Launch Creader 😎 device to 'reset' the EPB! I fixed it myself using an older version of Techstream. I had tried Delphi but it was partially successful. Here is someone who made the same mistake I made - Read the other fixes which I tried, but never worked for me.
  3. In my area there are lots of Corolla estates used as PHV in my area of Greater London/Kent. I saw one of the first in the show room last year -
  4. If Cosmin had bought a petrol variant or one of Toyota hybrid models, or a trouble free car, he might have had a different outlook about Toyota. Toyota are not perfect, but to say 'I never buy a certain brand again' is a little drastic. Toyota had good diesel engines, but stopped when they switch their attention to hybrid. Personally I would never buy a diesel car, and with the London ULEZ increasing, there is no incentive. The BMW diesel engines was only a stopgap to meet euro6 emissions, for the Avensis and Auris until they were fazed out. I hope Cosmin gets his car sorted.
  5. Thank you and I am glad you got something out of my tutorial. The Xcarlink is a good choice. I installed one with the Bluetooth adapter in my brothers Grand Scenic. These USB/Bluetooth adapters are far easier and cheaper than replacing the whole stereo. If you still cannot fix your unit, you may have to replace it. That's when you need to decide which option to take. Let me know how everything goes.
  6. Had a brief play with my stereo. With key in accessory mode, press and hold the answerphone button on the steering wheel, until the word 'phone' shows on the display. The turn the 'tune-file' to go to 'system'. Press the 'tune-file' control to enter new menu. There are a few functions not even covered by the owners handbook, so you need to find out what they do. If you press the 'tune-file' to access a particular function, you get confirm, or with a twist of 'tune-file' cancel to go back. I think you can reset the radio properly, but as I said, you need to explore a bit. I found 'guide voice volume' in the menu. I assume this is for the voice calls and if using phone SAT-NAV via Bluetooth voice. The Owners handbook hardly covers much!
  7. Just seen the video. That is an internal fault! I say it would need somebody who can fix the fault or a replacement unit. I am looking to see if the stereo can be reset to factory right now.
  8. I too recently changed the car battery. I flattened it once or twice as far back as 2018, doing diagnostics and listening to music whilst fitting gadgets to the car, but it coped well after. The battery condition indicator was showing 'green' = good! If parked up for a few days it would either just about start, or the battery was too weak. Once the car was running, the battery was fine. I carried one of those small booster starter, and that worked. The lock down made the situation worse, so I changed the battery in the end. Good thing too, as the plastic battery tray was missing. All sorted and I can leave the car up to a week or more (car usually park for a few days between use).
  9. You video is unavailable on YouTube. My stereo has been faultless. The most general cure to try is to pull the fuse to the radio or if you have the time partly remove the trim to get to the rear of the unit and disconnect the main connection. This may help in how to access the rear of the unit - Can you describe the issue and when it happens - playing radio/CD/MP3 from CD/AUX or you have added a USB adapter?
  10. You need to find a Toyota specialist who knows about electronic parking brake (EPB). Then with the right diagnostic find out what is the real cause. Also inspect the rear brakes for seized piston or caliper sliders, and badly installed rear brakes after a brake pad and disc replacement. I have the manual version of your car, so can't really say if what other factors could be involved.
  11. There may be a couple of possibilities. The first is the rear pistons were not set with the slots horizontal, so protrusions on the rear of the pads sit within the cutouts. The mechanic doing the brakes would wind back the piston as far back, then force the inner brake pad into place. Then during operation the piston would be press at one protrusion of the inner brake pad causing either, the brake pad to disc at an angle, which in turn causes uneven wear, or the piston to be skewed to one side, so there is less movement. Get the garage to check the rear brakes have been assembled properly and everything is aligned and secure. I have the earlier EPB so only auto release, but was force to change the rear pads after only 3 years because of incorrectly installed pads, caused the inner pads to wear faster than the outer pads! The second cause may your cars EGR! Diesels have faults that link one system to another, that can disable what may seem unrelated function. You need good diagnostics to find out this.
  12. You posted on the wrong thread! This thread is related to the T25 car (2003 - 2008). Your car must be the later T27. Do a search for EPB, T27, then read the causes and fixes. Just to let you know, very few EPB actuators fail. Most fault are caused by other components, especially after any work carried out. For example, seized or sticking caliper sliders, seized pistons, gear position sensor not securely connected after a clutch change, to name a few. Other systems can cause the EPB light warning to come on. I have have some minor issues with my EPB, all caused by some of the things mentioned. I have diagnostic scanner and software which has helped me fix my issues. Techstream work the best. You need to get the actually fault diagnosed. Also Post a new subject - not reply to this - and detail what has been done. Here are a couple of related subjects - There are more, so either respond to those instead of replying to this thread.
  13. Konrad C

    2016-Brakes

    First thing is consult the owners manual to engage service mode if changing the rear brakes! From 2012, the EPB had auto engage, and service mode disables this. Also you need to have left and right handed piston push back tools. I have a kit I got from Ebay, and used it on other cars. If do the fronts no special tools are needed. The fronts don't have the anti rattle spring seen on earlier models or other cars that have it. Very easy to work on, and being that young nothing should be seized.
  14. I remember my experience of the loan Yaris Hybrid last year. I loved it! Got the mpg average up to show some crazy figure during my use.
  15. Bit disappointing to hear. When I had my old Mk1 Avensis (1998), the air-con was still working without issue. Shows some cars have a hard time and others easy. Just luck of the draw. Hopefully you won't suffer in this heat.
  16. I agree. Use an old laptop. From experience an older version of Techstream is the is better than a cheaper scanner. In fact a not so cheap scanner I used, cause a problem with the EPB - resetting after brake pad change. Techstream fixed the issue that the scanner couldn't. It also happened to another member using another brand scanner! I also have Delphi which is quite good, but Techstream is better for Toyota's.
  17. Here is my experience with my wipers. My car being a '58 plate is one of the first T27 on the road - owned the car from September 2015. I am currently using Bosch Aero 539S (right hand drive) wiper set. They work fine and when I was the car, the wipers are cleaned too. There is no play in any part of the system - I just checked. At the beginning of 2016, I changed the wiper blades, but bought Bosch universal fit Aeros (not 539S), and they worked okay for a while. Later they started to work less efficiently. I manage to get genuine Bosch 539S online at a good price. The performance was a massive improvement. I haven't need to change them for quite a while now. I was doing a clear out, and found a new set of Bosch 539S, which I bought and forgot about. Another tip - I clean the windscreen and wipers, so the rain beads off. Also I set the auto wiper to the lowest setting, so the wipers are not sweeping a nearly dry screen. Also make sure the wipers are not frozen to the screen during winter! This reduces wear on the wipers, arms, linkage and motor. I carry a glass cleaner to use between washes, just in case. How the car was used previously, before you own it, is a factor. Hopefully you will get an idea from anything I mentioned above.
  18. All the things mentioned are things KwikFit do! When you go to get the MOT, you might need to go to a trusted independent test centre. Before that go to a garage and have them look at the components mentioned, for a second opinion. That way you will know for sure the report is accurate and the car is safe! Surface rust will come off with a wire brush, but corrosion is the oxidised metal is weak and chunks will come away.
  19. I still have the old water pump, and now it has seized! I think it's due to the lack of lubrication from the coolant. When I took the pump off, it spun freely but roughly. This confirm that the pump has worn and I caught it before and serious play or even leak happened.
  20. Having just change the water pump on my 1.8 Valvematic, it seem the petrol variants are a little more easier to work on, compared to the diesel variants. It's mainly spanner job. Here are some videos I found on YouTube From the videos and Stephen's comments, the engine mount has to be removed for better access. I paid £75.48 for the water pump kit, Toyota red coolant and de-ionised water all in, and did the work myself. I had a spare belt, so fitted that.
  21. Not as bad as some who are posting on really old posts. I see your point. Hi Imran If you went through all the responses, Anthony did state that he got back to them and they sorted out the damage, though he painted the area after. I noticed similar damage to my Avensis, which I think happened before I owned the car. The bend was so bad, the jack could'n't be used. I repaired the damage myself. Here's my post with photos - The tricky point is proving who did the damage. What I have done in the past, if giving a car to a garage you have not used before, is take photos of the car. I did it a couple of times when the clutch was replaced, and a recall. Since I do most things on the car myself, I can only blame myself.
  22. Over 91,000 miles, so nearly double the mileage. It is disappointing for you, but at least it's not a major job for the petrol engine. The Auris 1.6 is exactly the same. I think the diesel engine is more involved and needs the engine mount to be removed!
  23. When I started using Techstream 5 years back, the version I had worked initially, but i didn't understand the functions. Then at the beginning of 2019 when I messed the EPB, I decided to give it another try. I found a place to download version 12, then loaded it to my old netbook. I already had the mini VCI cable. I already had Dephli loaded with another interface cable loaded on the same netbook. I had to play with Techstream to learn all the features and how to use it. It did what my other diagnostic tools couldn't do and cleared the fault! I found a menu that cleared any cautions and warning on the display, not just the fault code. It was in a different menu to the parking brake, if I remember correctly. Hopefully you will learn and find a way to clear your issue.
  24. I too have tried the paper clip method for another reason, but it didn't work either. I have diagnostic scanner and netbook with Techstream and Delphi plus the cable connections that work with them. They work better for me and all three can do steering calibration, and find any error codes. You will to go that route.
  25. There is a basic test that can be done - http://www.cardiagnostics.be/-now/Self Diagnose Toyota Corolla ECC-panel.htm