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Konrad C

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Everything posted by Konrad C

  1. Here is a link to my post I made a few years ago. I have not had any issues since.
  2. Do you have a smart phone? I tried this using my Samsung phone and the Google lens app. Not perfect, but it got most of the translation done. Also be aware that there could be another fuse box, usually in the engine bay. I hope this helps. PS I Google Toyota Regius and result came back as a HiAce Regius, in people carrier and camper van variants.
  3. Hi Dorian, have you looked through the forum? There are many topics covering this issue for a very long time. So unfortunately my guess in my previous reply was correct. I always say to people to research older cars to find out known issues, before committing. Due to the age of the car, some of the the solutions are not available or cost effective these days. Depending how bad the oil consumption is (which sounds bad from your description), it will be an engine sourced from a later T25 facelift Avensis from 2006 to 2008. Those engines had the fix. The other problem is the emissions side, because the system must be contaminated. So if you source the engine from a scrapped car, it would be wise to take the catalytic convertors and sensors too. The problem is how many miles the source engine has done? The other option is sourcing a recon' engine. Rebuild your own engine may not work because the cylinder bores are made of a special coating. Changing the piston rings may or may not help! If you are an experienced mechanic or have good friends and access to garage, it will help reduce costs. I hope you got the car cheap to offset the cost of the fix? As I said earlier, it is best to find out a cars known issues on forums like this or Honest John. I was fortunate to find out about the ZZ oil burning issue, when I owned my MK1 1.8 leanburn. I was envious of the higher power of the VVTi and that the engine had a chain cam, whereas my leanburn had a cambelt that needed changing every 5 years or 60,000 miles. The good thing was the engine was non-interference and the belt had an easy time. Then I started reading about Avensis 1.8 VVTi burning oil at very low mileages and the causes. There are more topics on the subject. Good luck which ever route you take to fix your problem.
  4. Hi Plinth. I have used a few of these adapters with my T27 with W53828 standard CD/radio with the 6+6 CD changer socket. All worked, but the Wefa works the best. One thing I was aware of, are some suppliers state that the B9010 may not be compatible! It seems that there could be a special cable needed to use an adapter with the B9010 unit. Read the following links - The LaPower unit works well with USB memory sticks, but the Bluetooth audio was in mono. The APPSCAR was sluggish in operation needed the supplied wired remote to operate it - the other units work fine with the stereo and steering controls. The Wefa unit I currently use is fast, perfect sound, great Bluetooth with every Samsung phone I used, and works perfectly with the car controls. You need to specify the B9010 unit, but may be disappointed.
  5. That is a good question. I have seen quite a few posts from new members, who don't put all the car details in the post or profile. I would guess that the engine is VVTi ZZ petrol (1.6 or 1.8), but could be wrong! If the engine is the VVTi ZZ petrol, then it is the period from 2000 to 2005 that the oil burning issue happened for that type of engine. The ZZ engine oil burning issue was fixed by 2005, but not every car suffered or every owner was aware or did anything to fix the problem. So some cars got through the net and some unsuspecting owner now gets the problem car. Maybe Wakefield (Dorian) can tell us when and how long he owned the car, and the actual engine?
  6. That is my thought too! Ignition switch symptoms are - turn the key the the normal instrument lights come on, but the starter does not work. Also the the lights do not dim, as if the battery was low, because the battery is fine. I had the ignition switch problem when I own the T22 Mk1. The fault initially is intermittent, then happens more often until the car won't start at all. The fix was easy on that, but about £50 from Toyota, because a third party switch would not work. It was wrong for the car and I spotted the pinouts were in the from place. I always check and compare components before before installation, so did attempt to fit, but got my money back. So you have some direction with the starting. You probably have something rolling around, but you will have to put up with it. Check the heater vents or that chassis rail.
  7. It can be difficult to compare photographs, and rely on the sellers description. In the end, you have the correct tool. 👍
  8. I can't really help, but you need the wiring diagram to find the connection to the dome light. It could be the switch may be the fault and may have a bad contact. An auto electrician could confirm what I said by checking the switch and if the electric is coming through.
  9. I have the very same tool. Here is my post.
  10. I had this problem, when I owned my Mk1 1998 model many years ago. I found it was a build up of brake dust. I would hose down the disc and callipers and it helped for a while. The better solution is to disassemble and clean using brake cleaner, then add copper grease on the back of the brake pads. It might be worth replacing the pads and discs, if they are worn and the discs are heavily ridged. Also make sure the slider pins move freely and suitably greased.
  11. You can get the Bosch Aero Twin online at reasonable prices, but you paying for quality that lasts. Just make sure you are getting the real thing and not fakes!
  12. You need to ask locally, because we here in the UK won't be much help!
  13. The plastic valve was what I was describing on my old Simca. If you had some putty like substance, you you put it on the suspect components. I don't think you will hear hissing as such, depending on the size of the leak and how much vacuum is being created. If you can find a way to test individual components, to isolate the leak.
  14. I mainly read your posts and you should be thankful so far, that your local authority has not implement ULEZ type schemes, that are running in inner London and other cities and town in England and Scotland. More frustrating for some (not me) is the 20mph limits also being introduced in many areas around the UK! ICE engines are not efficient or clean at these speeds and DPFs (and PPFs) get full quickly and won't always regen properly. This is why EV and Hybrids are popular in London. Yes they are more expensive, but they are reasonably reliable and suit the current situation here in London. There are a few diesel diehards, but they either have done hacks or don't mind spending the £12.50 a day to drive within the ULEZ. Worse for some including my brother, there are plans to expand ULEZ to cover Greater London next year! So those owners with non-compliant cars will have to make the choice of paying or replace the car which could be more costly.
  15. I will say yes if you have checked and compared movement of both sides from the equalizer to the drum shoes. Corrosion and misshaped parts will affect the brake performance. So I would say yes, if the back plate is in a bad state. The following should show all the components including the back plate. http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/3/460551D.png http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/3/460526D.png Links to the images - http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2008/avensis/adt250r-alfeyw/3_273550_136_352W/powertrain-chassis/4601_parking-brake-cable/1 http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2008/avensis/adt250r-alfeyw/3_273550_136_352W/powertrain-chassis/4601_parking-brake-cable/3
  16. Remember I said I replaced a servo on a car (Maestro) many decades ago, I also had another servo fault on another car (Simca) years before that. The non return valve failed where the cap fell apart. This meant no servo assistance and a hard brake pedal, needing a lot of force to stop the car. The non return valve was attached to the servo drum as part of a hose. I manage to get one off a scrapped car in a breakers yard the next day. Once in place everything returned to normal. I would check the other vacuum components for leaks. The vacuum pump should be effective within a few seconds of starting the engine.
  17. You are not being rude in asking. Experience and a bit of logic when understanding how the clutch and transmission works. If the gears can be selected with the engine idling, but the car does not move, then the drive shaft, input/output shaft in gearbox, differential or clutch has failed - not transmitting drive to the wheels. If you can only select gears with engine off, then the clutch is not disengaging. Cause is hydraulic issue or failed clutch. To narrow down the cause, a proper examination and some tests can help locate the issue, and eliminate possible causes. Lift the front wheels off the ground safely and with the engine running, see if the wheels rotate (even in neutral). This will let you know if the drive is broken between engine and wheels. Try engaging the gears to see if the wheel spin at different speeds. If nothing happens, then it will be transmission out to check the clutch. I remember a friend who asked me to check why his Nissan Sunny had no drive, and there was a rumbling noise. It turns out he broke the differential (front wheel drive) doing a wheel spin or drag start. New gearbox time! Hopefully you are more fortunate.
  18. I have done a servo swap many decades ago, so not on the Avensis. You can see the bolts on the inside, but you need to remove some of the scuttle cover in the engine compartment, to separate the master cylinder from the servo and the servo pipe. Do this first before working on the inside. I think the hard bit is setting the pedal adjustment. Use the old servo to match the new, and take measurements before starting the work. It is a case of working in awkward positions and having the right sockets and spanners.
  19. I wouldn't think so, being a Mk2 T25 2006 model. I assume the car is fitted with the original unit. My later Mk3 T27 has the non-nav CD/radio (with handsfree Bluetooth for calls only), and I updated it with Bluetooth/USB adapter plugged into the CD changer port and get most functions music/nav directions/ and streaming with the phone in the cradle. The steering control works on some of the functions, plus there is voice control too. Yes any third party Android auto/Apple carplay unit can be fitted with Toyota specific wiring and facia adapters and steering controls. Everything should be plug and play, so not cutting and slicing!
  20. I think the brake booster/servo has torn membrane internally, so needs replacing. The bit you squeezed is probably the dust boot. It will be a matter of sourcing one and cost.
  21. No Joe, the engine Bigszu has is the same as mine 1.8 Valvematic 2ZR-FAE. He say his is 2017 which is fairly young and only covered 40,000 miles! My car is 2009 and on 100,000 miles. Hopefully his car should be under warranty. Very rare and unusual fault, but can happen.
  22. Your car is covered by the Haynes manual in detail, including the parking brake. I also had some technical PDF's that may contain the technical information regarding the parking brake. I will have to check my archive drives elsewhere to see what I have. Also sites like Toyota DIY should contain details and part numbers. I will get back to you when I find the information.
  23. I checked my car which is the same as yours, and all good. Yours is a little more mucky, but everything is identical and nothing is missing. When you say the gears are not engaging, do you mean you select a gear, but the car does not move? That would indicated the clutch or drive shaft is broken. If you can't get the gear lever to lock into position - resistance, the hydraulics has failed.
  24. When I had my 1998 T22 GLS, I replaced some of the bulbs in the dashboard and heater control area. I posted my reply -
  25. The parking brake drums of the T22 with discs are manual only adjustment, as detailed in my reply.
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