Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


starletsy

Advanced Members
  • Posts

    1,209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by starletsy

  1. Good tyre size caculator here: clicky
  2. What kind of manifold do you have? Is it the standard cast manifold or an aftermarket stainless or mild steel version? If it's aftermarket the flanges on these have a habit of warping so they are not level and you cannot get the gaskets to seal. Simon
  3. This had previously been in storage for 10 years no tax or mot. It’s a 1976 Toyota 1000 that needs some work but I just don’t have the time and space now to fix this one up. It will come with a spare windscreen as the one that is in is cracked. The interior is tatty and the dash is cracked. I’ve not had the 2K engine running but it comes with a 1300cc 4K, which I know is a good runner. Must be collect from south Lincolnshire. Looking for £400 May swap for something else retro.
  4. There isn't much difference in size between a K50 and t50 mate the K50 is shorter though try www.kp61.net for one.
  5. For sale: Dawes Air fuel ratio meter: Purpose: To allow for the safe increase of boost on your turbo/supercharged vehicle, you should monitor the air/fuel mixture. This meter allows you to read relative changes in your mixture and warns of lean conditions that can damage your engine. Applications: The "E-W-S" is tuned to work well in all forced induction applications. Be it a supercharged, factory turbo, or custom built system, our meter will help to protect against lean mixture damage. Approximate size for all units is 2.5" by 1.5"(display face) by .5". All you need is a narrow-band O2 sensor, like the one that came standard on 96% of the fuel injected vehicles in the world. What makes the E-W-S superior to other Air/Fuel Meters?: Our meter is color graduated around a generally recognized as safe .90 volt O2 sensor reading. The lights are color-coded to warn of excessively lean or rich conditions. This allows the meter to be read at a glance, by color. Each meter is individually tuned using internal potentiometers and a calibrated DVM (compared to the mass produced gauges which use resistors--and are not individually calibrated) to give the most accurate results available from a narrow-band O2 sensor. Also, we use a different style of case, which allows the monitor to be surface mounted anywhere you wish. In other words, you don't need to cut holes or buy a gauge pod. Additionally, it may be pointed at the windshield for a "heads up display" that allows the readout to be read as a reflection in the windshield. Our meters are the brightest on the market and use color coded indicators that remain clear when inactive. This allows for easy reading in full sunlight, while preventing false readings. I've heard that you need a wide-band sensor to tune your A/F mixture. How do you do it with a narrow-band sensor?: Although an expensive wide-band sensor is needed to make precise changes in mixture (such as those made when programming an ECU fuel map), narrow-band sensors can provide enough information to warn of excessively lean conditions under boosted applications. Racers have been successfully using the voltage output of narrow band sensors for over 20 years, to prevent costly engine damage. Our unique display provides an Early Warning System that is not even provided on many wide-band units. For this reason it makes an excellent supplemental system for a wide-band meter, as well as a great stand-alone system. Item Condition: Used Price and price conditions: £20 including delivery within the uk Pictures: Contact Details: U2U Location: Lincolnshire Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Free within UK will post worldwide for extra cost
  6. For sale: Blitz Skeleton type turbo timer with toyota starlet EP91 harness I think this harness fits other toyotas also Item Condition: Used Price and price conditions: £40 including delivery within the uk Pictures: Contact Details: U2U Location: Lincolnshire Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Free within UK will post worldwide for extra cost
  7. :D My old car hmmmmmm we have history :!Removed!: Simon
  8. I think i've got one of them mate will have a look tomorrow if you still need one. Simon
  9. Of course she is.................that is how she posted her original question Welcome to TOC Michelle If some people wern't so far up there own on here then what harvey wanted to tpye was toyota gt turbo without the spaces but it gets changed automatically. Oh and yeah nobody makes them but there is plenty of threads on how to do it on the other site. Simon
  10. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:IT&ih=003 Simon
  11. This isn't 100% certain sale but if people are interested in parts i will consider sensible offers will know 100% on Monday. 1. Forged Pauter rods and Lightened, balanced and Knife edged crank. These came out of Andrews engine and are totally mint. £500 2. Cruise Power 256 degree cams used came from the auction in Japan.£300 3. EP91 rear 5 point roll cage, used bolt in.£350 4. Tom's rear corner spat's for EP91 brand new not been fitted or painted.£100 6. Sprint hart CP1 15" wheels come with tyres (195/50/15 A539's) although 2 are illegal. £250 7. Sparco Crimson 15" wheels Mint condition good tyres but a little big at 205/50/15. £300 Please U2U me with offers i will post items 1,2 and 4 the others will have to be collected. Located in Lincolnshire. Simon
  12. Your on about the geunie toyota part? Try toyota not sure how much it will be if not head over to www . toyotgtturbo . com And Jay or toyotabreakers should have a spare one. Simon
  13. Defi temperature sensors x 2 (water + oil) Defi oil pressure sensor Also included is the wiring, which I believe connects the sensors to the control unit. Only known problem is one of the plugs is broken please see the pictures below. These were working when removed. Open to offers not sure what these would be worth. Will post anywhere at buyers expense. Simon
  14. Hi mate pm me a price for the gauge and some pics of the back of the rad cap please. Simon
  15. Try Fensport mate they will have the engine and if they will not do the converstion they would be able to point you in the direction of someone that will.
  16. Depends on which ones they are mate. Std ones usually fetch about £50-£75 for a pair, recaro ones maybe £150-£200
  17. Yes it will better to get it done sooner than later as you might cause damage to the flywheel. I know for the turbo starlets you can get uprated sports clutches from starlet gt turbo . co . uk (remove the spaces ) but you might have to check to see if they use the same diameter clutch. Simon
  18. For sale: Apexi stand for RSM/SAFC/VAFC/AVCR Item Condition: New in box Price and price conditions: £15 delivered with the uk. Extra Info: What you see is what you get!! Pictures: Contact Details: P.M. or post below Location: Lincolnshire UK Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Postage is free within uk extra to anywhere else will post world wide. Simon
  19. Decided to sell this as I just don’t get the time to use it any more. This is a top spec 1/10 rc truck the same spec won Adam Drake two world title the last two years. It’s in very good condition as you can see by the pictures and comes with everything needed to run and race: XXXNT Nitro truck Nova Rossi engine with tuned pipe Hi Tec 40 meg radio gear 12v starter box Glow starter Fuel Comes with all you see in the pictures plus instructions a few spares and original box. This is a quick truck it's hard to estimate speed though but it's not something for your average back garden best on a playing field or something. I brought this last year from a guy that races on the national level as he had just upgraded to the latest edition. It's running at 1.2 motor but as this was a racers truck it's at the high end of the market so is very quick. As for price check here: http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/shop.php?...%3D1%26category %3D29 Thats £340 for the rolling chassis!! No radio No engine No glow starter No starter box I would like £300 which is about half the price of what this lot would have cost new. I cannot post the fuel and postage is extra too the price. Simon
  20. Please post a full spec of you car engine wise then we might be able to add some pointers to why you keep blowing motors
  21. These are absolutely perfect condition, all in japanese and will be sent out in cardboard backed packets to keep them that way. 1. Rav4 tom's brochure 2 double sided pages showing all the tom's parts with part numbers for the Rav4: 2.D-Tec Altezza brochure 2 double sided pages again with the D-Tec Aristo on the last page: 3. Corolla/Levin T101 brochure 3 double sided pages with all the tuning and body parts tom's produced. Also single page double sided tom's NA-R wheel brochure featuring the T101: I'm asking £5 each for the Altezza and Rav4 brochures and £10 for the T101 ones. Post and packing will be set at £1 i won't charge any more if more than one is brought. Payment by cheque or bank transfer sorry no paypal. Simon
  22. You be lucky to ever get 190hp from a stock ct9... Buyers Guide All Turbo starlets are imports unless it’s a UK car that’s been converted. First off here is some background into imported cars from Japan: The Japanese Car Market Japan has the largest domestic car market in the Far East, with major car manufacturers such as Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Mitsubishi and Mazda proving popular across the world as well as Japan. Due to the limited space for road vehicles in Japan strict regulations along with other factors have shaped the market to favour part-exchange towards the purchase of new models. As a result their is virtually no domestic used car market in Japan, and a rapid depreciation in car prices. Intense competition means that models are constantly being upgraded or re-designed, and many extras are fitted as standard, which would add thousands to the price of a UK car. Shaken ’Shaken’ is a strict car registration scheme which operates in Japan. It consists of a series of safety inspections combined with compulsory insurance, weight and vehicle tax. New cars come with 3 years’ ‘Shaken’. After this has expired the ‘Shaken’ must be renewed every 2 years throughout the ownership of the vehicle. Therefore the Japanese generally sell or part-exchange their car as a period of ‘Shaken’ expires. The cost of renewing the ‘Shaken’ is relatively high as the Japanese Governments policy is to reduce car ownership due to the limited space available. In fact, the Japanese car owner must prove that he/she has sufficient parking space for each car they register. Imports Importing a car yourself can save you quite a lot of money but it is far from simple. This is why for the purpose of this buyer’s guide we will just be looking at common problems found with the starlet and things to look out for when going to view. Bodywork: This is a good place to start remember the age of the car you are looking at. Take a magnet and some coins with you. Use the magnet to check for filler, which is often used by cheap repairs to mask damage. The coins can be used to judge panel gaps – slide a coin down a panel gap, if it stops then the panel gap is tightening up. If the car is wet, then dry it as a wet car hides paint defects You will often find small marks and scratches from the import/shipping process. One thing that is very important is too look for poor fitting panels and uneven gaps a lot of the cars that go through the auctions in Japan have had minor accidents but there often isn’t any record of them. If repaired correctly then there is nothing to worry about. The EP82’s mainly the Mk1 versions suffered from pealing lacquer on the roof and bonnet so that one thing to check carefully. Check the car has been under sealed in Japan they don’t use the harsh road salt we do so the under seal often isn’t up to the standard on European cars this will eventually lead to the car rusting quicker so it a good idea to check it’s been done. If it’s a dirty car, offer to clean it – whilst cleaning it you’ll spot scratches and problems. Engine: Here’s what you do........... First check under the bonnet. Check the following............... Engine oil condition. Black oil suggests poor maintenance. Service history. Very important, especially for a turbo engine. Receipts from previous turbo repairs. Proof of a reputable service history. Aftermarket turbo remanufacturer’s nameplate. Has the turbo been replaced before and by whom? Be suspicious if a reputable company did not carry out the repair. Oil leaks around the turbo. Signs of a poor turbo rebuild or a worn turbo. Heat shields loose around the turbo. Sign of a recent replacement turbo. Painted exhaust turbine housing. Could be trying to hide a poor quality turbo repair. Water staining around the turbo bearing housing. Leaking water connections. Alignment of hoses and connections. Poor alignment indicates a badly repaired turbo. Non-genuine hose clips. May indicate poor workmanship. Bleed valve on actuator hose. Turbo has been operating at a higher boost pressure that it was originally designed for. This may have damaged the turbo. Dump valve. Indicates that other engine modifications may have been performed. Replacement actuator. Uprated actuators are fitted to operate at a higher boost pressure. This may result in turbo damage. Grip marks on actuator rod. Signs of a recently increased or reduced boost pressure adjustment or problems with the turbo. Air filter condition. Signs of oil staining on the air filter may indicate engine wear. Split compressor intake hose. Unfiltered air entering a turbo will cause damage to the compressor wheel. Exhaust leaks. An incorrectly serviced engine can run weak, causing excessive heat build-up in the exhaust. This leads to warping and cracking of the exhaust manifold and turbine housing. Non genuine oil filter. A sign of cost cutting when servicing a car. Retro-fitted boost gauges. Cars fitted with a boost gauge tend to have had the boost pressure increased. Compressor wheel lift. Movement of the turbocharger’s rotating shaft, up and down, is an indication of turbo bearing wear. Rubbing compressor wheel marks. If you can get the owners permission to remove the air filter hose, check signs of the rotating compressor wheel making contact with or rubbing the housing. This indicates excessive wear in the turbo bearings and means a turbo rebuild is imminent. Actuator hose cracked or split. This will cause over-boost. Intercooler damaged or split. This will cause low boost and a loss of power. Rubbing or split Intercooler hoses. This will cause low boost and a loss of power. Oil feed hose leaking. May lead to turbo oil starvation and eventual failure. Oil drain hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the turbo oil return will lead to leaking turbo seals and blue oil smoke from the exhaust. Breather hoses squashed or bent. Restrictions in the breather pipes or hoses may cause blue oil smoke from the exhaust. Breather system “one-way” valve sticking. Can cause blue exhaust oil smoke. Up rated or non-genuine exhaust system. Reducing the exhaust back pressure with a free flow exhaust system can cause oil leakage from the turbo oil seals, leading to blue exhaust oil smoke. The coolant should be bright red. If it’s a different colour then ask why - the system could have been overhauled as routine servicing or there could have been cooling issues with it previously. If the coolant is dark and murky and you can’t see through it then either knock a few hundred off the asking price (or enough to cover draining system, re-core of radiator, replacing water pump, renewing thermostat, cleaning reservoir and flushing the system repeatedly until clean) or walk away. Next comes the road test. Check the following............... Start the car from cold. It should fire up quickly and easily and settle into a smooth, but fast idle of around 1200rpm. There should not be excessive smoke – although be aware that on a cold day, there will be more visible water vapour but that is not smoke. Idle speed when the engine is warm (temperature needle halfway across the gauge – should get there and stay there within 5 miles drive) should be between 700-800rpm without air conditioning on. A/C should add roughly 100rpm. Rubbing noise on acceleration. Turbo bearings badly worn. Poor performance. Low boost caused by defective turbo, wastegate mechanism or air leak. Too much performance. Over boost may be due to an incorrectly adjusted or defective wastegate. Hesitation - violent. This condition can be experienced when accelerating hard. The boost pressure exceeds a nominal value, leading to over boost (a safety cut out switch). The problem may be caused by a defective wastegate. Hesitation - holding back. Engine mixture weak, or air restriction. Pinking or detonation under load. Incorrect ignition setting, poor quality fuel, excessive boost pressure or a poorly maintained engine. Blue smoke under hard acceleration. Engine wear or defective breather system. Blue smoke under deceleration. Engine wear. Check on full lock for noises from the CV joints. Check the Handbrake is holding well the cables are expensive Now whilst the engine is at normal operating temperature, leave the engine idling for 10 minutes. Check the following.................. Blue oil smoke at idle. Defective turbo seals, excessive bearing wear, defective breather system or restricted turbo oil drain system. Black smoke at idle. Worn diesel injection pump or injectors or excessive over-fuelling. White smoke at idle. Engine damage, cracked cylinder head or head gasket failure. Very rarely caused by a damaged turbocharger. An exhaust blowout noise from the engine bay is possibly a cracked or loose manifold. Interior: Check for excessive wear on the seats and steering wheel compared to the mileage it’s done could be a sign of a clocked car. EP82’s suffer from electric window motor failure and blower motor failure quite often so check these operate correctly. The speedo records distance. In Japan it would record in kilometres. At some point it may get converted to read in miles, but its true “mileage” will be made up of a mixture of kilometres and miles. To convert divide kms by eight, then multiply by five to get it in miles. Simon
  23. Hi mate try this guy: Ben at SJW absolute top bloke all systems are stainless, 1.4mm thick. 01924 495367 07929231530/ 07779714156 http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc001876me.jpg http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc001889uv.jpg http://img115.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc001869io.jpg Simon
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership