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Racingmcfly

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  • Toyota Model
    Celica

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  1. Anyone know if Celica GT4 ST205 calipers and discs will go on SW20?
  2. Drivabilty, is what im after, ive done a few track days and wanna do some more! My previous 4 was rubbish on fuel. £50 would get me about 200 miles if i was lucky yet my n/a 2 would get me 200 miles on £35
  3. Ok, I used to have a 1995 MR2 REV 3 about a year ago and i never had a days trouble from it apart from it needing a new clutch! (Although totally my fault due to many a racing start). I canned the ***** out of it all day everyday serviced it reguarly and it never missed a beat! Anyway then I wanted more power so i was gonna go for a Turbo MR2 but then decided because there only being 2 seats id go fo a GT4 ST205 instead, excepecting this to be just as reliable as the 2! Anyway to cut a long story short ive had nothing but problems with it, from blown turbos to knackered big ends! So im gonna get rid of it and go back to a MR2 as its more fun for a start! Thing is do i go for a Turbo or stick to the NA? I do like to drive them very hard and im thinking that a Turbo 2 may let me down too? How reliable are these 2's, i know its the same engine as the 4, was i just unlucky and got someones old dog??
  4. Looking at the Turbo again, it does seem to have end float in the sharft, so i phoned Turbo Technics and told them, they are having it back to take a look at it. Im hoping that they have screwed up and they will fix it and everything will be ok. Oh i can see the exhaust valves cause I have taken off the exhaust manifold aswell. The turbo comes off the manifold easier this way i find, due to some extremely tight nuts!!!!!
  5. Had the turbo go a few weeks ago so have spent out 700 bucks on a new one. Turbo works fine much better than the old one and spools up a lot faster. The only problem is that the car has started to blue smoke from the exhaust. It smokes when it has left idling and you give it a few revs. First thing i thought was it must be the turbo as it was the only thing that had changed from before. So was gonna send it back to be looked at. Took it of and have noticed that there is a small amount of oil running down the exhaust valves. This must be where it from. The plugs are not oily so this makes sense. I take it this means the valve guides are screwed! So after just spending almost a grand on turbo, parts etc im a little :censor: off! I find it a bit strange as there was definatley no oil there when i changed the turbo. Anyone got any ideas. It doesnt smoke untill it has warmed right up so was thinking maybe a different weight oil? im using 10w 40 magnatec??? Any suggestions would be very appriciated
  6. Well the pumps working, i have found the relay that controls it and hardwired it. It does now chuck up an error though. But it definaltley stays a lot cooler, so more investigation is needed. Only problem now is i have worse problems. Had the turbo go a few weeks ago so have spent out 700 bucks on a new one. Turbo works fine much better than the old one and spools up a lot faster. The only problem is that the car has started to blue smoke from the exhaust. It smokes when it has left idling and you give it a few revs. First thing i thought was it must be the turbo as it was the only thing that had changed from before. So was gonna send it back to be looked at. Took it of and have noticed that there is a small amount of oil running down the exhaust valves. This must be where it from. The plugs are not oily so this makes sense. I take it this means the valve guides are screwed! So after just spending almost a grand on turbo, parts etc im a little :censor: off! I find it a bit strange as there was definatley no oil there when i changed the turbo. Anyone got any ideas. It doesnt smoke untill it has warmed right up so was thinking maybe a different weight oil? im using 10w 40 magnatec??? Any suggestions would be very appriciated
  7. Does anyone know when the water pump that pumps the charge cooler water to the radiator at the front should come on? Should it run all the time, my charge cooler seems to get very hot on top of the engine, the water is boiling yet the radiator at the front is ice cold?
  8. Racingmcfly

    St205

    Does anyone know if the ST205 front shocks are cartride shocks. They look to me if the may be. Toyota want £150 for the complete unit. Mine keep bottoming out and rattling so i guess they are screwed.
  9. I had the same problem on my ST205, The back brakes should'nt lock first so you really need to take a look at it. When mine started doind i tried bleeding the brakes incase there was any air in the lines. That did'nt fix it. Then i found that my rear discs where, badly worn. The inside edge was binding more with the pads, and when braking hard in casues more pinpoint pressure on the disc casueing it to lock. Check the rear surfaces of the discs, pads and check the rear piston in the calipers are not ceized
  10. Oh dear my Turbo has let go on my GT4 ST205...... Anyway have removed the thing and have sent it of to Turbo Technics. I was thinking of getting a cat replacement pipe as now the turbo is of you can see just how much restriction the cat must give. Fensport want £230 for a decat pipe but looking at the cat id say i could turn me cat into a de-cat with a few power tools etc. Can anyone see any problems with this. Apart from the obious MOT problems.
  11. The ECU in the ST205 will not allow full boost if it detects any thing that is not in its paremeters. for example if the engine is not up to temperature, or its too hot etc it will limit the boost to protect the engine. You could have a dodgy sensor somewhere?
  12. Had a little bit of a scare at the weekend, almost crashed through a hedge. Was doing around 80mph and thought i give the brakes a little test. Anyway was braking pretty hard and the rear end locked up and the backend went swinging out to the left. Quickly dropped the brakes and managed to get it back before leaving the road through a hedge. :o First thing is im wondering why my ST205 hasnt got abs. I thought they all had it or was it an optional extra. (theres is no abs pump etc) Secondly does anyone know if there is a weight activated brake bios valve. ie more load in the back the better the rear brakes work. All the pads appear to have ample material on them. The only thing is the front brake discs have been uprated for the grooved variety which I believe where probable fitted in japan, and the previous/uk owner said he had replaced the pads with geniune toyota parts. So I was thinking maybe the rear pads have some uprated pad material in them casueing them to lock first? Anyone any ideas to this quite scary prob!!! :o Cheers Ollie
  13. Check that your brake fluid is not low, cause when you boot it, it probably is swishing around and triggering the brake warning light which i believe is the same as the handbrake light!!! Ollie
  14. My mates got a toyota hilux 2.4TD and he wants me to give him a hand to change the cambelt. How hard is it to do and how does it tension? I just changed the cambelt on my celica gt4 and i found that quite easy! Any help would be much appreciated
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