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XkillerX

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Everything posted by XkillerX

  1. if you put the pc (even a notebook) into the trunk quite near the subs, the poor thing will probably go defunct in a few months. a wise choice to put it would be under the passanger's seat. heavily isolated against vibrations of course. ibm thinkpad's are formidable, but come on, really, every time you'd crank up the volume it'd be like knocking on its case with a hammer, that dont make no sense. you'd be wiser selling it off on ebay and getting a creative zen touch or similar, and connect it to the aux input of the head unit. plus you can take it with you and fill it up with music as you go. also that setup you're talking about it attracts faaar too much attention, i dont know what kind of neighbourhood you live in but you'd better watch where you park.
  2. in general, sony head units suck @$$. the same as panasonic, jvc, and the new kenwood, pioneer etc. if you're looking for new stuff, go with alpine, _trust me_. man-bing will tell you the same. or get a kenwood excelon W7027 if you can still find one. or a pioneer deh p77mp i think... mmmm the one with the burr brown d/a convertors
  3. if you have a LINE-IN input (usually rca a.k.a chinch) on your cassette player you can just get any cd/usb/hd portable mp3 player, plug it in, set the input on the head unit to 'auxillary' and rock'n'roll. alternatively, you can buy a low quality "tape" adapter. you plug one end of the adapter to the headphones connector of the portable mp3 player, and you push the "tape" end in to the cassete player. your cassette player will think it's playing a cassette tune, but it will actually be playing your music from the mp3 player. you drive an st185!!! both of these solutions are not worthy of that glorious car!!! :ffs: throw all that crap away and get a decent apline cd/mp3/wma headunit and enjoy every second of your audio&toyota experience!!!
  4. you need to remove the factory head unit and take a gooood look and the wiring loom. since there is no way you can know the factory combination of the colors/meanings of the wires and their functions, my advice is to look for some service manual or any other tech advice about it. the whole trick is, that besides the 12v input fed into the head unit (this one is often called "battery +") there is another wire called "ign", "ignition". that wire feeds the signal that allows you turn the head unit on. now, if you cut it, and connect it directly to the battery+ wire, the head unit will think it's always under ignition, and allow you to turn it on/off as you wish. i've always had a setup like this, although i never had a factory stereo, so i have no idea what the wire loom is like on a rav4. anyways, my solid guess is that a trained service person in your local car hifi shop could do this in 10 mins, if he has info on the wire color coding. just remember to turn it off!
  5. have you ever seen a "power" cap manufacturer put up demo cars, showing, car A, w/o a cap, does xxx decibels, and car b, with our "ultra power cap" does xxx+yyy decibels???? NO. and you will never see that. power caps are just a fad made up to sell people another round of placebo they dont need. like all those "super turbo" chargers, and petrol "demagnetisers" all and the other crap you can make up. save yourself those hundred pounds and put it away towards a decent battery, which is about a 150 i believe. the only "evidence" of power caps being useful is that people who own them tell me "i THINK the bass is really clearer now when i pump it to the max". does that sound plausible to you? if it made a difference, trust me, you'd KNOW immediately. the only reason people keep recommending them is that nobody wants to admit they threw away a lot of money on soemthing they dont need. send it back and get a decent battery, or an alternator upgrade. (for example, with an exxide maxxima, you can start the engine while the music is full on without drop-outs. now THAT'S a huge difference) and dont run your system full on when you finally get it going. good speakers need break in time. after that, thump away... i just hope your poor yaris can take the beating of that powerhouse you'll install in the trunk ... i don't think you're aware of the sheer quantity of the bass those alpine's can make...
  6. i'd risk and plug it to other set of inputs on eq... with volume turned down to zero at the beginning, of course, and then slowly get it up. the biggest problem with modern navi/audio setups is that you cant get any info on what and how the factory installed and there arent any dealer/service people who can help you out either. let me know what happens.
  7. give that stupidity back immediately, that's the biggest waste of money i've ever seen!!! a "power" cap isnt gonna help you out... do you really believe that a 400 euro alpine amp needs a POWER CAP????? since you're gonna be running 2 amps of a poor little yaris's alternator+tiny battery, i recommend you use the money you'd waste on the capacitor and get an alternator upgrade. or at least an excellent battery. like an exxide maxxima, or an optima yellow or red top. now THOSE things make a difference!!! :hokus-pokus:
  8. okaaay, let's take this one from the top. the 1242D is a 12", 2 times 4 ohms (double voice coil) subwoofer. you cant change that. it's 2x4 ohms, and it's capable of handling 500 Watts of TRUE power. the M605 is a class D (digital class) amplifier. that means it can take anything you toss at it, and it should be able to support impedance as low as 1 ohm (at a loss of sound quality of course). it offers 400 watts in 4 ohm mode. you can forget about that. you have a TWO times FOUR speaker, you can either hook it up in series or in parallel (or hook up only one voice coil to get 4 ohms and screw it all up). so you're going to hook it up in parallel - thus lowering the total impedance of the subwoofer to 2 ohms (note - the monoblock amp sees the DVC woofer as only one). hence you will get 600 watts fed into a 500 watt speaker. since alpine is a premium company, you dont have to worry too much about blowing it, unless you're insane. first of all, use premium cables, EVERYWHERE. 2nd, match the input sensitivity of the amp with the output voltage of the head unit (usually it's 2 volts). now set that a bit LOWER, so you DONT DRIVE THE AMP INTO CLIPPING. also, get an alpine recommended box for the speaker, or better yet, get it custom built for your car specifically (lots of money but worth every penny). now, when you're tuning it up, get the most saucy, bassy song on a cd you'll ever listen to and play it. the point is to adjust the head unit/amp/speaker to sound as loud as possible WITHOUT ANY DISTORTION coming from the speaker. this is hard to do if the box is in the trunk and you're adjusting from the driver's seat. get an infrared remote. experiment. don't drive your amp into clipping, because the speaker is the one who has to deal with it. also, SIX HUNDRED WATTS are an aweful amount of power. i have 300 and it's moooore than enough for a compact car. make sure you have an either really good head unit (with a v-hybrid or really really really good mosfet built in amp) or get a separate small amp for the other speakers in the car. running that sub of THAT amp and the other speakers of a regular head unit will result in you not hearing anything but the bass. hey, but maybe that's just what you're looking for, right? PS dont forget to put the other speakers in the car on HIGH PASS FILTERS - no reason for them to bother producing bass that you'll never hear from the woofer. it's late and i'm sleepy, make sure to write back tomorrow and tell me what turnes out.
  9. hey flame boy, you never answered my pm about the consumption
  10. the sound depends on the quality of the speakers you get. if you get some cheap 20 euro trash dont expect any changes but if you get some nice kenwood excelon PSR's or alpine type R's, you won't believe the difference. especially if you have a quality head unit. also bare in mind, that if you're front speakers are crappy, they will numb the changes you'd get from the really good speakers in the back. upgrade all 4 speakers at once that's all i can say.
  11. we're not psychics here... 1st things 1st, what's the exact model of the woofer?
  12. hello 6th gen owners is the celi with the 7AFE engine considered a euro2 or a euro3 car according to EU emissions regulations? i can only import euro3 cars to my country
  13. you're selling..... the car of my dreams..... for 6000 pounds..... ?!?!? and you say you're bored of it.................... i think i'll give suicide a good chance.... PS i also drove my friend's 6th gen celica today... there is one really, huge, big problem with his car. actually, two huge problems. it's HIS car, and NO, he wont sell it to me
  14. nope, i'm a hungarian from yugoslavia. oldskool, hehe. i doubt that the japanese emission laws are the cause of the extinction of real sport cars. come onn, if a LANDCRUISER PRADO can pass the emissions test, are you telling me that the supra, mr2 and celica cant...??? i cant believe that by the time i gather up enough money to buy a sports car there wont be any toyota racing vehicles left!!! :!Removed!:
  15. hello to all lucky owners of markIV supras. i wish i could get my hands on one. unfortunately i think there isn't a SINGLE ONE in my country, and i cant even import one because "it's not a euro3 engine" and it's import to europe ceased a long time ago (in 98 i think?). i've been dreaming of a naturally aspirated version for many years now - ever since i first played the original Need For Speed game (who can still remember that one, huh? best game ever!). my appeal is straightforward and desperately sincere: TOYOTA PLEASE BRING BACK THE SUPRA!!!!! you don't have to change anything!! nothing at all!!! just bring it back, it will still decimate it's scarce competition the way it is!! what's the point of having a 192hp corolla? or driving a GOLF (ewwww) R32??? they are NOT true sport cars. they are great cars, but will never be close to a supra. because of all the ignorant people buying SUV's they dont need, now that the time has come to change my corolla, i have no real alternatives, really. the choice will probably be either a newer corolla, avensis, yaris, who knows. if i get _-REALLY-_ lucky maybe even a 6th gen celica. but never a SUPRA.....
  16. heyyy it's 3 am and not the right time for me to play teacher because i can hardly type, go visit www.bcae1.com and read, Read, READ, you have everything explained there from head to tail :bookworm:
  17. great bargain. if you know nothing about car audio look no further. best bang for the buck. and the h/u included is really good, too.
  18. that h/u is a complete waste of money. you'd be MUCH better off getting a separate dvd player h/u + monitor if you're looking for multimedia, and a no-brains straight-out mp3 player if you're into music. although i'm loaded with oldskool kenwood excelon if you're shopping for new things i'd go with alpine. same goes for speakers, unless you're buying PSR class kenwood excelon components. bare in mind, 430 pounds is a LOT of money, that's more than 600 euros, you should be getting an almost complete sound system for that kind of money, not just a fancy head unit and a pair of "150w" speakers! (and when i mean complete system, i mean good h/u + 4 speakers + small amp + subwoofer + cables).
  19. heyyy i'm an IT engineer too :) no mcse and other b$ on me, i refuse to pay big bucks for silly exams and fancy pieces of papar :cacker: . in car PC? was thinking about that a LOT, but in the end decided to skip on the project. too much hastle for a car i dont travel around enough in (aka, too much city driving, yuck). you can power your pc by 2 ways. first one would be finding a (used is ok too) UPS that works on 12/14.4 volt batteries. dismount the damn thang and hook it up to your car's battery using proper wires (AT LEAST 10 gauge/10mm2. dont forget a 50amp fuse right at the battery!!!!). the second choice is to get a DC-DC power supply made especially for in-car use. the internet is full of them. they ARE expensive, but they solve one big problem: huge voltage drops when you start the motor. yupp. saves you the trouble of destroying almost everything in a few days. of course, there is an answer to this too, with the UPS version :D get a REALLY good starter battery. like, exide maxxima, optima yellow or red top. these things have at least 4 times the cranking power than regular batteries. you can crank them all you want and i doubt there'll be a significant voltage drop. and now, for the money part. you're looking at a minimum of a hundred euros for a decent DC-DC power supply. as for the UPS version, first you need a ups (used=cheap, new=probably 30-50 euros) to dismount, then a QUALITY power supply (NOT those cheap noname craps that come a dime a dollar - i'm talking about at least a coolermaster 380W extreme - 40 euros at least too) and THE BATTERY (mentioned above). at least 200 euros more. the equation solves itself. as for CPU and other stuff, if i was low on money i'd get a used amd xp 2500 (barton core) and underclock fsb to 100mhz, it still has loads of processing power at silly dissipation. for bigger money, an amd 64bit 3000+ model. "cool'n'quite" works incredibly! :group-cuddles: bring it on!
  20. Hi everybody, and hopefully more people will check this post out than in the electronics forum :cacker: i'm sick of the domestic police playing highway robbers and tricking people any way they can (60kmh signs on HIGHWAYS, 20kmh construction signs NEVER removed etc). i've been looking around for radar and lidar ( = laser rader) scanners and jammers and found only one that seems to work well. it's the Blinder Jammer m20 Xtreme. supposed to offer complete front&back protection with 97% chance of jamming. BUT, this puppy costs a hefty 500 euros to get it installed. does anybody have experience with this one, or any other jamming devices??? come on people, i know you're sick and tired of the highway robbers... err... i mean police. i dont want to drive like a maniac, i just want to drive _normally_.
  21. WOW... lots and lots of important info! :group-cuddles:
  22. i'm also running a 5 channel amp. all of my equipment is kenwood excelon except the rear parcel speakers, they're jbl. but as for the h/u i didnt stretch further than the kenwood w7027, frankly because i dont see sense in buying a million euro h/u when next year there'll be a better, smarter and significantly cheaper one. too bad kenwood took such a fall in quality, the 2004&5 stuff is :censor: , i'd stick with alpine if i'd have to do it all over again. :bookworm: so, JT: get yourself a set of expensive alpine 6x9's if you've already made up your mind and want nothing else. like the SPS-690A, they should be around 60 euros but are well worth it.
  23. that's true, but he should still know what is the RIGHT way to go, no?
  24. From my experience in car hifi, this is the most effective cost-performance setup i can advise you: swap your head unit for a pioneer with "direct sub drive" option. look around http://www.pioneer-eur.com to find one. get a set of 4" component speakers for up front (10cm midrange + tweeter) and a readily built, but high quality and efficiency bass tube/box and stick it in the boot. run the sub of BOTH rear channels (you "bridge" the rear speaker channels). you WONT BELIEVE the sound you're getting. and now for the added bonus... to get to the next level you just have to buy a small 4 channel amp in the future, and you're ready to rock'n'roll :hokus-pokus:
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