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Everything posted by rajivrattna

  1. Then you definitely need to activate your lane keep assist because even a slight deviation from the lane can result in the arm being chopped off by another car in that other lane. 😀
  2. The price of smart chargers have been falling through the years but quality difference is definitely there. Lidl smart chargers probably is good for day to day charging but the big questions are (1) will it charge a battery with less than 2 volts charge (a run down battery), (2) will it restart after electricity break/pause (3) will it recondition the battery (desulfation), (4) will it go down to maintain and trickle charge for many days after charging if you are away for months. A more expensive Ctek charger will do all that, so read the fine print. I have two Ctek chargers and one of them is 20 years old! They cost more but are really good. I have besides those other two low cost smart chargers bought from supermarket. Both of these cheaper ones don't do all of above and I rarely use them.
  3. Well all Cars with auto high beam have problem with the camera sensor due to misting of windscreen and it clears up after sometime due to rising inside temperature or after ac use. In that case while waiting for the mist to clear up turn headlight stick to lowbeam manually. After it clears up go to auto beam.
  4. As far as the diesel engine goes, that is the only thing BMW or any other German car maker made it well and they are reliable. It is their petrol engines and the rest of the car that sucks and is unreliable. I am sure Toyota checked every bit of that diesel engine collaboration before they accepted it in their cars. I remember reading a few years ago how the two had collaborated, BMW getting help with hybrid tech in exchange.
  5. Being Toyota, I guess it is a Denso alternator. Denso makes great parts but their alternators seem to be a weak link. I have had to rebuild or replace these alternators in both my old corolla and Aygo after 8 years or more of ownership. While chosing the alternator for Aygo I noticed that they were two different types with different amp ratings. This time I chose a non Denso alternator.
  6. I would start by charging the battery with a good charger like ctek charger that can even charge batteries with very low charge remaining. Not all chargers are built the same. If and when you succeed in rescuing the battery and starting the car, buy a rechargeable jump start thingy that you can keep in a trunk. Costs only a few quid from eBay or Amazon. It will hold charge for almost a year and can jump start your car multiple times from one charge. Now that is necessary because you almost destroyed your battery by letting it drain to bottom charge. The battery will never be the same again and can give you problem in future. Winter is bad time for batteries.
  7. Is your so called original bulb a Philips long life bulb or an aftermarket badly designed bulb that refuses to budge, I wonder.
  8. I wonder if the overfill history has something to do with incomplete emptying of the old oil before filling it with new. The time pressure must be immense at the dealers. I change oil in our auris 1.2t myself and I drain the engine oil with both the sump plug and oil filter removed and let it drip for atleast 15 to 20 min after the first rush. Then after replacing the sump plug and a new oil filter, I fill the new oil exactly 4 litres and each times the oil level has been at exactly max. So does the dealer not know what I know? Difficult to believe. Or the other reason can be the oil filling tap. Some Toyota dealers use a long pipe with flow meter attached that shows the amount flowing in through to the engine oil cap hole as they press the lever. The trick is to stop at the level indicated on the meter. Slow reaction =more oil filled in the engine.
  9. Our Auris is 6 years old and the original tpms sensors are still working.
  10. My son drives lexus IS 300h (2015 model) and having driven it and comparing it to our Auris 1.2T, I can safely say that the comfort, the sound insulation, the interior, the sound system, the acceleration response and sheer driving dynamics of Lexus thrashes Auris any day every day! It is apples and orange comparison. We have even driven the newer model lexus and it is even quieter and better in every way. So really no comparison at all. The only down side of Lexus is the service cost. Here in Sweden the major service costs 600 Euro and the intermediate costs 400 Euro. The service costs for Auris would be 450 and 250 major/intermediate respectively.
  11. We have been driving my wife's Auris 1.2T for a year now. The engine itself is small but very good in response and power delivery. I think the turbo comes on quite early and the fuel consumption needle moves up pretty quickly too even with mild controlled acceleration. The disadvantage lies on higher fuel consumption for its size, specially during city driving (8lit/100km). It is thirstier than my Mazda CX5 with non turbo 2 lit engine in city driving (7 lit/100km). In the highway the auris 1.2T is more fuel ecomomical (5.4lit/100km vs 6.5lit/100km) compared to Mazda cx5. Cx5 is far heavier and taller than Auris.
  12. Sounds like your clutch is giving up. Hope your warranty covers that.
  13. It is fixable with tyres that have a lower db ratings. See my answer in the other similar thread.
  14. The combination of 17 inch wheels and low level of insulation inside the car makes Auris E18 model a noisy and jittery car on pot holes. We had the same problem which was further amplified by the Swedish rough surfacing of roads (to withstand regular snow ploughing during winter). It felt terrible and tiring on longer journeys. There were only three solutions. Change car, go down on wheel size to 16 inch or change to less noisy tyre. We changed all 4 tyres to Nexen nfera sui rated for 68db for our original 17 inch wheels and we are very happy. The noise level and jittery ride have improved beyond our expectation. Yes it is fixable. Why do we have two threads on the same/similar topic?
  15. This oil change interval is not standard or fixed as some of us may believe. It seems to depend on the car maker and in some cases on the interpretation of what is severe use and what is not. Toyota usually advocates once a year or 15000km. BMW for my earlier E91 recommended once in two years or 25000km. In USA the general consensus is to change it after every 6 months or less and their interpretation of severe use is "cold climate" or "multiple starts and short distance driving". For us living in Nordic countries cold climate is normal and the oil change is still once a year. My take on this is keep it simple and just follow your car hand book given interval. The car maker knows.
  16. Here is a link from Swedish car expert to you all non believers on why the best tyre should be on rear axle. He starts the test with best tyre on rear axle and car goes forward on a slippery curve without drama. On the next instance he goes through the same slippry curve with the best tyre in front axle and worn tyres on rear axle. See for yourself.
  17. The used car prices generally have also increased for more than two years in a row in Sweden. The main reason is the almost three to four times increase in road tax for new petrol driven cars, a drive to force people to go electric. Auris from 2015 or 2016 with 1.2T engine can cost up to 13 to 14 thousand euro.
  18. We had Toyota's "kvalitets garanti" , quality guarantee for total period of 8 years from the date of manufacture on our Aygo, which we bought second hand from Toyota dealer . It was about three years old when we bought it and when the mmt actuator failed the first time we had the whole replaced under that warranty and later the water pump failed and that too was replaced under that warranty. We paid nothing. The warranty price was already included in the price of the car. After eight years we sold the car, knowing that another mmt or clutch related problem was around the corner.
  19. Having driven two tank full I feel that the car (Mazda cx5, no turbo) feels a lot more quicker and lighter on E10. Good acceleration too. I am happily surprised. My wife who drives the 1.2 turbo Auris has not noticed any change on E10 so far.
  20. Have a look underneath and even in the boot area to see if you could identify the individual wires going to the sensors and how they are connected to the brain/sensor box. This is the first stage. Is this an after market sensor in the car or an original? The original ones are too well fixed by toyota to identify each wire and it's sensor. If it is aftermarket then it is probably loosely tied and thereby easier to identify by prying out the sensor from out side and then tugging at each wire to see which sensor is connected to which wire. The next stage would be to pull a little bit of sensor and wire from outside and then after cutting off the wire at the sensor attachment point attach the new sensor wire to that remaining old sensor wire (use ties or tape whatever works best without increasing the thickness and pull on the old sensor wire from inside dragging the new sensor wire in place of the old wire (rail roading technique". Do that for each sensor. Fit your sensors on the bumper and attach the wires to the brain box. All done. All this can only be done if the old sensor wires are NOT tied in one bundle behind the bumper. If you have to remove the bumper then there is an you tube guide. I will have to dig it out.
  21. Here are my 2 cents on this topic (supported by Swedish traffic agency). We always rotate our tyres when we change from summer to winter and back again from winter to summer wheels/tyres here in Sweden. We mark the position of the wheel so that we know exactly where it sat the last time. The pattern of rotation (front to back or criss cross) depends on if the tyres are directional or not. Directional=front to back rotation and non directional= criss cross or back to front rotation. Regular rotation means uniform wear and changing of all four wheels at the same time. Cost wise no difference. Equally worn out wheel means changing all four wheels at eight years vs un even wear (non rotation) means changing two wheels every 4 years for example. Safety wise, better to change all 4 at the same time. If you are forced to change only two wheels/tyres, then the best/newest/best tread always on the back axle. This is best for stability of the car, no matter what sort of car you have, front wheel drive, back wheel drive, or four wheel drive. This information is hammered in to every Swedes head by the traffic agency every year via news paper article, tv and radio. Winter roads can be treacherous if you have got the wrong wheels here!
  22. I am sure that others have allready told you but I will repeat it any how. Aygo MMT auto is a big no, no, no. MMT is a problem waiting to happen. We have been there, seen that, done that and regreted it every bit. Any other Toyota with CVT auto is fine. Toyota CVT s are usually very reliable and good, specially the newer ones. The older ones tended to be a bit noisy, whining noise. Our 2015 auris cvt is quiet.
  23. You will be fine with E10. I would stop worrying. These cars are built to be able to run on E 10 since the switch over was decided more than 10 years ago but did not happen untill now. Besides they are compatible with E10 as it says at the Toyota web site. We have been using E 10 in Sweden for more than a month now and have not noticed any sort of problem in starting, running or fuel economy in all our three cars (a Mazda, a Toyota Auris and a Lexus). We in Sweden should be more worried about winter starting and water crystals in fuel but we are not since that alcohol dissolves water and stops it from freezing in the lines. During winter the fuel from the pump receives more additives so chances are that it will run smoothly.
  24. Our 2015 auris (in Sweden) does not have indicator on the dash showing when the DRL is on. Since the early morning hours are now quite dark in Sweden the headlights (low beam) come on instead of the DRL as you start the car. I noticed that the other day when the wife drove off to work.
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