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Golden bay NZ

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Golden bay NZ last won the day on July 4 2011

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    Toyota Celica SS3 VVTI Beams
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  1. If its happening at high revs it could be coils, tho its too low is for that
  2. 18" rims will rob your car of power. My celica gains another 12 HP by running 15" Volks with Toyo T1R,s and can beat Skylines and wrx,s. Read my post on wheels on pg 1 of the Celica Forum to see how..
  3. Yes. On the firewall you can see the two pipes and slider. Check the slider moves when you turn the heater on. I had a similar problem and believe it was caused my my heat exchange unit having sludge. You cant see this as its way behind your dash and behind the two pipes on the firewall. Disconnect these two pipes, they will take some levering as they will be well stuck on with age. Poke and hold a good flow garden hose into one pipe then the other. Look to see if a brown sludge comes out. This will work better if you run a cooling system cleaner first with the heater on and then let it sit overnight If this doesn't work you may need a new exchange unit which is expensive to replace and not worth it probably
  4. Well here's my input after winning 59 illegal high speed races and beating Skylines, Wrx,s and Evos in my 218hp gen 6 SS3. This car is highly modified in terms of weight removal and runs Tein suspension It depends what you want. If you want longevity and good rim protection a heavier 2 ply sidewall tyre is best. If you want performance on a small engine..go light The lightest performance tyre is the Toyo T1R. I run these. They are one ply sidewall so your car will sway a little but i find them very predictable and they've barely slipped in 5 years..mind you i don't have an ordinary celica. If you want stability use 20 mm spacers/adaptors There is a reason they used T1R,s and Volk rims on Fast and Furious 3 Tokyo Drift. T1R,s are also the quietest tyres I've found Here's the thing. If you run a standard 17" rim on a 2000 celica with a 2 ply 10 kg tyre..you can gain better grip and an extra 10hp by using a lighter wheel and tyres. I will explain at the end. The Federal FDR2 has surprisingly good reviews for a cheap tyre. My favorite tyres for a 2 ply is the GTRadial Champiro 228 or Bax if you don't mind slightly more road noise but longer wear Apart from the T1R and 228, Bax...very few brands provide reliable grip in the wet. Advans and Bridgestone Re002 will at the cost of robbing you of power.. If your gen 7 weighs 1200 kg is it? Divide this by 190 HP = 6.3kg of car body weight for every 1hp. So every 1kg of body weight you shed you are gaining, or more accurately 'freeing up' 1 HP. Rims are part of the centrifugal drive train weight along with pistons and flywheel. The further out from the hub the weight is the more power required to turn it. So a rough formula is 4:1 for rims and 5:1 for tyres on your driving wheels...meaning 1 kilo shed from the rims is equivalent to 4 kilo of body weight lost I run 15" Volk TE37,s weighing 4.5kg and 205/55 T1R,s weighing 8.6kg each. Compared to a 17" standard alloy rim weighing 8.6kg and a 10kg tyres its a 10 HP difference. Work it out like this Rear: 10 kg + 8.6kg =18.6kg x 2 =37.2kg Front: 8.6 x 4 = 34.4kg x 2 = 68.8kg Tyres: 10 x 5 = 50 kg x 2 =100kg 100 + 68.8 + 37.2 = 206kg Total Change to a 15" Volk and T1R.. Rear: 17.2 kg Front: 4.5 x 4 = 18 x 2 = 36 kg Tyres 8.6 x 5 = 43kg x 2 = 86 kg Total: 139.2 kg 206 kg - 139 kg = 67 kg difference 67÷6.3= 10.6hp A lighter rim/ tyres combo improves grip because your suspension rebound is better able to keep your wheel on the road, heavy wheels tend to bounce. This is at its worst on bumpy corners in the wet. Tests on a flat surface may show low profile tyres grip better..but not on a bumpy road or track
  5. You undo the plastic guard inside the wheel arch enough so you can get to the intake box. I cant remember but I think there is a bolt or two holding it in place .. and its prob. whats stopping you get the scuttle guard off.
  6. k means kilometres or 60 miles. I think 2 gallons is standard reservefor most Toyotas
  7. So is this the hidden panel inside the wheel arch? Why dont you just drill some holes in it to let water out? I took out my air intake and it was hard to get at.
  8. Dont wory about it. You shouldnt have any crap in the tank in a car like yours. Youve got 2 filters anyway. The only problem is that you will start to run out of gas and splutter if you drive fast around bends. But if you drive carefully you should get 100k if you had to.
  9. Oh right. Mine have self tapping screws mostly and a quarter of them are missing!
  10. I have 2 gallons left when I hit the warning light in my ST202, so about 90k's which I think is standard for most of the older Toyotas Ive run it dry to test it as well
  11. That doesnt sound good. Whats a 'scuttle panel'? Are you sure you havent got rust under the air vents above the bonnet? You should be able to get those plastic pins at those auto warehouse places
  12. Hi You might be right about some Celica parts fitting, as the ST202 is based on the Carina/Corona chassis For a front wheel drive you would need a thicker rear sway bar. Strut braces front and rear will also help. But the best thing you can do for handling is to install coilovers. This stops almost all body roll, but they are very hard and bumpy. I would keep to a higher profile tyre
  13. Why are you replacing the figure 8's when you dont know where the knocking is coming from? One of my fig 8's has been on for over 100,000 k of some very hard driving at high speeds on bumpy roads. These are all expensive joints and it may be your control arms knocking which can be more expensive. You might do the Fig 8's and the knock could still be there. Get your mechanic to have a look when its on a hoist and lever the joints with a crowbar to find out which one it is. The Fig 8's can knock when there is only a tiny amount of play. The control arms are a llittle more obvious.
  14. Is it superstrut? I agree. Knocking at low speed bumps is almost always the control arms Buy them yourself. This seems to be a favoured part for adding a 110% mark up by mechanics
  15. Couldnt find a matching clutch. Machined stock flywheel and balanced it at a marine turbo outfit to 0.9 grams at 8000rpm Didnt take enough off - 18 holes at about 1kg bringing it from 6.4 to 5.4. Hasnt made a lot of difference, 5.1 would have been better. Didnt get sway bar, Had to replace bushes, rear struts and bearing - ouch. Car going the best its ever gone. Need to wait until tyres are worn down to get accurate time But am changing to 4.5 kg TE37 15"'s for comfort, low noise and power
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