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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by BenL

  1. BenL

    I'm In Fast Car!

    You know what they say is the lowest form of wit? Just thought I would share it with you anyway, to be honest as I didn't invite them along I can't help but feel proud the work I do goes noticed by the media.
  2. The forums removed the spaces I put in to the error code read out. If you've got no codes it will go * * * * * * etc. However say you've got or had a knock sensor fail it will flash *_*_*_*_*_____*_* the repeat (the _ being pauses).
  3. Check the gearbox for smooth shifting, also try some high rev changes in to forth and fifth (don't get done for speeding). Cruntching and whining from the gear box is very bad. Make sure the oil isn't like tar and check it's been serviced properly. Ask when the cam belt was done too. Although not a probablem if it breaks on these engines, but it does cost a lot to replace. With the cold spell we're having at the moment you might find the car won't maintain full boost. Another good test is to take a paper clip along with you and once the engine is warmed up, switch it off (switch off the heater, radios, etc too), then use the paper clip to connect pins E1 and TE1 in the diagnostic socket. Switch the ignition to on (but dont start the car) and watch the engine check light on the dash. If the check light flashes without pausing its good, if it flashes out codes (like * * * * *, then repeats) the ECU is detecting problems with the engine or sensors. This is a great test because the codes are stored until the ECU is reset, codes like running excessive boost, failed knock sensors (typically from too much boost causing a knock loud enough to destroy the sensor), or anything else which could be a problem later! Also check the paint carefully for any signs of spraying. Pull the boot carpet and look for rear end repairs, check the ECU hasn't had the wires cut in too (found in the boot, bolted to the back over the passnger side). Listen for hollow sounding knocking from the car as you drive, typically is leaking shocks. If it's a decent spec turbo it will have no-rebuildable Bilstiens which are throw away items and very expensive. Check the colour of the coolant, MR2's use Toyota Forlife which is blood red in colour. Green forlife isn't suitable for MR2's really, and if anything else is in there it could be a sign of poor or cheap servicing. Check the oil filter and see if it's a Toyota one. Seems like a silly thing, but in tests rarely any after market filters are much cop. I will only use Toyota filters on my car for that reason (they are also fitted with a non-return valve so don't leak oil all over the engine when changing). Check the seats and carpet for water stains or wetness. Damn those leaky t-bar seals! Listen to wind noise coming from the door mirrors, also check for shaking. Although not expensive to fix, it's not much fun doing in winter time. If buying a fresh import, check the passenger foot well for the Toyota factory fit emergency flare. Not availible in the UK, and is a nice part to have when you come to resell. Check the stereo and listen for any crackling or popping noises coming from the rear speakers. If the T-bars leak, ofter water gets in the amps and kills them. Also check the door speakers. The standard ones tend to rot away the rubber around the cone and sound like crap when that goes. If the car is fitted with a Green HKS Powerflow air filter (looks like a mushroom) either walk away or use it to bring the price down. These filters are complete crap and suck in all but the largest chucks of dirt and dust. I used one of my own car for a couple of months and it chocked up the inside of the airflow meter and inlet pipes. Biggest waste of money ever.
  4. I've got my tool bag, complete with jack and some toyota spanners. Cant remember if it's velcro though, thought mine had a popper on it? I've also got the t-bar sun shades and leather / sued bags for the roof pannels too :)
  5. BenL

    I'm In Fast Car!

    Well not actually a picture of me or my car this time, but once again for the last legal cruise I put on! Check it out on page 103, the Midnight-Racing Xmas cruise. I was only in Revs a couple of months back too :D Fame at last!
  6. Frozen hand brake cables are a common problem on some older MR2's. My car suffered from it badly when I first got the car, but I've since replaced the cables with a new set and never had the problem again. For the time they take to fit, it's well worth replacing them
  7. BenL

    Mr2 Ecu Reset

    It should be noted that the only thing resetting the ECU actually does is clear any error codes. It’s not some magical cure for running problems, and you don’t need to reset it every time you fill up with a different grade of fuel. Timing and Fuelling are controlled dynamically when driving sensibly in what is called closed loop mode. This is where the ECU keeps advancing the timing to the point of knock the backs off and starts the process of advancing again, and the fuelling is kept at optimum thanks to the O2 sensor. When you stick your foot down the ECU switches to open loop mode where it runs a preprogrammed fuel and timing map (based on throttle position and air flow / MAP reading), the O2 sensor is ignored and the knock sensor is only used to detect detonation. If any knocking is detected in this mode the ECU will first pull the boost, and then if that doesn’t stop it, it kills the ignition advance and reverts to limp home mode. If at the moment you are experiencing inconsistent running, it will be because the external air temperature keeps dropping below 5 degrees C. When it’s this cold the ECU lowers the boost to 7psi because the air is denser and not so much boost is needed to make the same power. Also because there is more oxygen present in the air it can safe guard against running lean (not that it’s a concern on our cars). If however you find that your car always runs inconsistently, 9 times out of 10 it’s because your base ignition timing has moved from the 10 degrees BTDC it should be. Some foolish garages are under the impression that 5 degrees base advance is required because of our lower octane fuel we have over here (and I’ve seen a number of MR2’s set like this). You need your 10 degrees base timing, it does not cause knocking.
  8. Just remove the filler cap and check you can see coolant in the neck. If not refill. The expansion tank is pretty useless for judging the level as you can bearly see it.
  9. Sounds like a good car. Check when the cam belt was last changed as a garage will charge upwards of £600 on average. 100,000 miles really isn't a problem on these engines providing it's been serviced properly. On a 3S-GTE we're rebuilding at the moment, that has done nearly 100k and there is bearly a hint of wear on any of the bearings. Very well built and tough cars.
  10. BenL

    Rev 1 Spoiler..

    On the Rev 2 they are held on with clips and a couple of bolts. Undo the bolts from the inside (one front, one back) and then firmly pull the side parts off. The front clip can be a bit of a sod to free but it's very tough so be firm and it's unlikely to break.
  11. BenL


    When is the next meet? I’m one of the many who have had problems with the Oz pipe cracking. My first one cracked twice around the O2 sensor, I welded it up both inside and out and it was fine since, however I’ve had a replacement pipe with the supporting bracket which I’ve recently fitted. The bracket doesn’t look very strong really and only holds the pipe from the same bolt that supports the turbo oil return feed to the block. Time will tell if it solves the problem for good. Still cracking aside it does make a very good upgrade if you are running an uprated actuator. The reduction in back pressure is very noticeable and turbo spool improves greatly. At the moment I am reaching 1.2 bar by 3100rpm! Here is a selection of random pictures from during the rebuild and the finished car. Apart from the machine work I did all the rebuild myself (yes it is possible to get the engine in and out with no help from anyone!) Sorry looking engine bay Standard CT-26 Modded CT-26 Wiseco Forged pistons (lower compression than standard, just 8.4:1 ready for some serious boost!) My assembled short block (Had the block decked to make sure the steal head gasket sealed perfectly) The car with it’s freshly rebuilt engine The engine is pretty filthy at the moment because of the bad weather, but when it warms up a bit I will give it a clean and post up some more pics.
  12. I'm sure it's the fuse. I've blown one before and the buttons won't light up. If the connection to the compressor breaks or you are low on gas the buttons still light up. It's probably just something simple like the fuse.
  13. BenL


    I just thought I would say hello as I only discovered this forum the other day. Names Ben and I'm from the South East. I drive a 93 MR2 GTS Turbo which I've owned for nearly 4 years now. I'm on both the UK and International owners clubs as Ben Longhurst, plus I also run my own club called Midnight-Racing (you might have seen some of the events I do on the telly or in magazines?). I’ve done a few mods to my MR2. Body wise fitted the 94+ spec rear lights and 98+ spec clear front lenses. I’ve lowered it 35mm, and fitted some 16” TSW Imolas. I have a new MRD front splitter to go on yet, but that will probably be the last body mod I do as I love the lines of the standard car. Performance wise I’ve done a full engine rebuild with 86.5mm oversized forged Wiseco pistons, kept the standard rods and crank, running a 1.2mm TTE layered steal head gasket, water injection, very modified, flowed and ported CT-26 turbo running a 48mm T-04E compressor, thicker shaft, ported waste gates and a larger turbine wheel. This exhausts to my 3” Aussie Exhaust down pipe, connected to my GReddy Power Extreme Exhaust. Done lots of other bits too but get’s boring if I keep on! 1500 miles after the rebuild I put the car untuned on the rolling road and made just over 260hp at the wheels with just 1.2 bar boost running nearly off the scale rich (standard it made 156whp)! I’ve done about 4000 miles now and the engine has freed up nicely, so very soon I will go back to the rollers and tune for power. My goal is to break in to the 12 second ¼ mile times so I should be well on my way to achieving that. Hope to speak to you all soon Ben
  14. Personally I think the MR2 looks great in black, when polished you can get such a deep shine. However if I couldn't have got a black one, I would have gone for the metallic blue because it's a fairly uncommon colour. (Quick picture of mine and a friends MR2 who we are presently rebuilding for some serious power!)
  15. BenL

    Rev3 Lights..?

    We did one last month to finish off the year, but won't be doing any more now until the weather picks up a bit.
  16. BenL

    Rev3 Lights..?

    lol yeah thanks to Revs.
  17. BenL

    Rev3 Lights..?

    I have the red corners on my MR2 and I got them from my local Toyota dealer. They have them listed on their parts CD but don't like searching for them
  18. A compression test may not show up a failed head gasket unless the engine is very smokey. Pop along to your local Toyota service department and get chatting to the guys in the garage. One of them will probably perform a coolant sniffer test for free. It's just a chemical in a jar with a hand pump which you place over the coolant filler neck and squeeze the pump a few times. If the chemical goes red, you've got problems. Doesn't take five minutes to do either.
  19. The T-VSV is nothing more than an electronic bleed valve which is controlled by the ECU. It's function is to increase the boost over the turbo actuators set pressure of 7psi. When your engine is cold, or knocking has been detected the T-VSV remains closed and your max boost is limited to the base 7psi. If all is well and the engine is up to running temp, the T-VSV opens and bleeds off a little pressure back to the inlet manifold to increase the boost to 13psi. If you disable the T-VSV you will need either a bleed valve or ideally an electronic boost controller to increase the boost back to the factory 13psi. Once you have done this you remove one of the ECU's safe guards against engine damage, but because the ECU also closes the T-VSV when the external temp drops below 5 degrees, you will also get more consistant cold weather running. Unplugging the T-VSV is the quickest way to disable it, however that means climbing under the car (it's located under the inlet manifold). A much easier way to disable it is to cut the vacuum pipe from the turbo actuator which disapears off under the engine and plug both ends.
  20. BenL

    Beams Engine

    The BEAMS engine was fitted to the last generation NA MR2's in Japan. It's a 2.0 with varible valve timing which develops 200hp standard.
  21. The LSD uses the gearbox oil, so make sure you use GL-5 grade oil. Very easy to change, undo the large filler plug on the front of the gear box (either 25 or 27mm can't remember which, and it faces the passenger seat). Then undo the lower drain plug. Fit the drain plug, refill, then refit the filler plug :) Once the under tray is out of the way you'll be able to see what you need to do.
  22. GT Turbo is the heavier better equipped model, comes with all the options like steering fog lights, folding mirrors, T-Bar roof, ABS, etc The GTS was cheaper and lighter, however all the GT parts were availible as an optional extra.
  23. BenL

    Standard Turbos

    There isn't a T22 turbo, there is a T2 which can be found on Renault 5 Turbos, a T25 which can be found on Fiesta Turbos, and the more common T28 which is used on Skyline GTR's, Pulsar GTi-R's etc. The T28 does have a larger compressor wheel than a CT-26, however the exhaust side is even more restrictive so it wouldn't make a good swap. Also being a single entry turbo you would reach 15psi by around 3800rpm. Out of interest a T88 wouldn't spool on an MR2 until around 6500 - 6800rpm. Toyota CT-26 and CT-20b turbos will fit both early and late cars, so if you are on a budget a used CT-20b in good condition would make a nice mild upgrade for anyone with a Rev.1 or Rev.2 car. Remember the extra power isn't coming from the larger compressor, it's because the turbine can flow better on the CT-20b.
  24. BenL

    A/f Meter Link

    AF meters are only as good as the O2 sensor they read from. The standard narrow band O2 sensor can't read quick enough to detect sudden lean conditions. Unless you hook them up to a decent wide band O2 sensor, you have nothing more than a pretty light show.
  25. BenL

    Whats These Do?

    A catch tank will trap any oil mist or blow by from the breather instead of sending it back in the engine to be burnt off. You don't want any oil present in the intake because it lowers the effective octane rating of the fuel and that leads to piston destroying detonation!
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