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Thermal

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Everything posted by Thermal

  1. About that unrelated engine revs to speed thing, look at it this way: It's the computer that continuously selects the proper gear ratio from an infinite number of "gears". It always selects the optimum rev/gear ratio for the given load. Higher revs doesn't hurt the engine, (too) low revs in a traditional gearbox situation in combination with a heavy foot, does! IMHO people who complain about "that irritating Hybrid rev noise" do not understand the hybrid system. I dare say, these people probably have been abusing their cars, causing lots of wear and heat in their engines and gearboxes. In other words, they have always done it wrong, and/or were too lazy to shift down in a manual gear box. You cannot beat a computer, and in a sophysticated Hybrid, you even don't want to! That said, Toyota could have used more and better sound deadening in the otherwise very comfortable RAV4!
  2. Maybe this can help? Looks genuine... http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/raw_content/4NCU52QByN-h0aqiXfcJ
  3. Ah yes, didn't realize this was an old thread. Only saw the last unread post. Sorry.
  4. This video suggests there is a plug ready behind the clock for it. Have a phillips screwdriver ready. πŸ˜’
  5. When some 14 years ago my Peugeot 406 broke down again, I scrapped it after only ~180.000 Kms. Now carless, I went on a mission to find a really reliable car with low operational cost. Having owned Renault, VW's, BMW's, Volvo and Mercedes etc. I actually had little hope to accomplish such a mission. Avoiding a couple of brands I knew a reputation from anyway, I came across the Toyota marque and browsed the Avensis forum. Based on what I saw there, I ordered a T27 Avensis petrol. The Avensis was absolutely flawless during the 10 years I owned it, when it was replaced by the present RAV4.5. Best cars ... sofar!
  6. It's a direct replacement. The driver's side is as easy as "old one out, new one in, fixed". The passenger door swiches take a bit longer, as they need to be extracted from the door trim panel itself. Not difficult, but takes some caution not to break the trim fitting. BTW, in a previous post I was wondering if the original switches already had the LEDs in them and maybe only needed the adapter cable to light them up. That is not the case. I found my original switches today and they definitely have NO LEDs. Sorry about that.
  7. Yes, "Homie Autoparts Store". I could not tell the difference from the originals. They work perfectly, and the LEDs are dim enough, that you don't notice they are lit during daytime.
  8. I wouldn't worry too much about the warranty. The switches I received look, work and feel exactly the same as the originals, they even have a Toyota part number on them and were probably made in one of the many factories where Toyota gets them from.
  9. Hmm... so after 3 years of complaints Toyota are still selling the RAV4's with unlit window switches? 😲 I found that downright dangerous and it was the first (and only-) thing I changed, soon after I got it. See the above link (recommended), and make sure to order RHD or LHD according to your country. Since this simple modification, my RAV4 changed from 99.9% to 100,0% perfectness! πŸ‘
  10. This video explains how to adjust the Aygo's clutch. The Aygo does have a cable and it can be adjusted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTaNNh8MUGk You actually cannot see the adjuster nut from above though. In my wife's Aygo, I removed the battery and battery tray to provide some more space and reach the adjuster to set a somewhat lower bite point. She has done > 170.000 Kms in her Aygo and still has the original clutch. She knows how to drive ... πŸ‘
  11. @Cyker, Yes, looking at your video, the Yaris doesn't handle that very well. I've never seen that happen in the RAV4. And I have seen and felt the "pedestrian alert" only once, when it was really needed, when a brainless cyclist crossed my path in a narrow street, while she was busy texting! You mention that the various Modes in the Yaris don't do much. In the RAV4 the difference is undeniable. The Mode switch is a big dial, and has 3 positions: ECO and SPORT. The dial always returns to the middle position and for "Normal" Mode the dial is marked "Press for Normal". If the dial is pressed by accident (which leaves ECO or SPORT mode) and press the accelerator a bit, you know immediately that you're no longer in ECO mode. "Sport" Mode changes the car even more. The instrument panel turns red and acceleration, steering and braking become far more aggressive. 0 to 100 in 8 seconds they say... It's not a sportscar, but it is ... impressive. Given our national speed limit, I have never tried the top speed in any Mode. And given the present fuel prices, I only use Sport Mode sometimes when entering a busy Motorway. ECO, common sense and patience is the way to drive a Hybrid and it serves you well. Stay safe!
  12. Maybe that would not be too bad as it seems. What I have seen sofar is, that these autonomous cars are all programmed to be extremely defensive and cautious. The technology is still in its infancy, so they will have bugs but that's a matter of time. I expect traffic to be alot safer when autonomous driving matures. Unless, ofcourse, manufacturers are then forced by "the market" to equip autonomous vehicles with "Ludricous" and "Idiots" buttons. Fortunately, I will be too old to drive by then. 😟
  13. I wonder if there's a difference between the Hybrid systems in the Yaris and the RAV4. The RAV4 has 3 different Modes of Operation, "ECO", "Normal", and "Sport", which makes the car behave quite differently, where "ECO is the gentle, comfortable and fuel efficient mode, "Normal" gives the performance you would expect from a 2.5 liter engine, and "Sport" mode is .... impressive which also changes the steering and braking characteristics! On longer distances I normally drive in ECO mode which gives between 55 and 57 mpg (5.2 - 4.9 L/100 Km average and during the summer season. Not bad for a 1750 Kg car.
  14. Yep, that would make the ACC "experience" ... nerve wrecking! The difference is, I mainly do Motorways, and believe me, we also have traffic and some of the categories drivers you described overhere. But after a couple of million kilometers, I think I have developed the necessary sense of identifying them in time, and switch off ACC in anticipation. 🀐
  15. Yes, there is room for improvement. ACC works quite well in heavy traffic, as long as everybody behaves somewhat. Maybe the RAV4 system has some more processing power to cope with situations you described, because I never experienced such hectic reactions. That said, it works best if traffic keeps reasonably flowing and if not, there always is the Cancel button to return control to the Master.
  16. With modern eCVT's, is anyone using Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) in creeping traffic? That would brake, creep and stop all automatically for you. Just a thought... 😏 (If so equipped of course)
  17. Just Google for a "heated 12V car seat cover". I have one for years and I find it totally acceptable. Came with a cigaret lighter plug and I leave the cover on the seat until the end of the winter. Warms up quickly and feels ... comfy 😊, even when I switch it off after a couple of minutes it keeps the temperature. Was only a few €€.
  18. Don't know about Toyota's, but over the last 50 years I had several brand cars with folding/tilting/sliding "sunroofs". Not that I wanted them, but they were already on them when I bought them. Sooner or later they all started leaking, rusting or gave all kinds of electrical problems. Worst case was, it once refused to close when it started to rain. 😨 Fun or not, I hate sunroofs. And as a bonus tip: don't let your daughter buy a used Aygo or any car with an "MMT automatic", even if it looks like a good deal! Recent petrol manual Aygo's are "fun" enough and very reliable.
  19. Yes, let us know what you see and what the technician says. After reading that section of the manual (again... πŸ˜’) I'm almost convinced that pulling and holding that HOLD button activates the mechanical parking brakes on the rear wheels, as a measure of last resort. That will probably mean a write off of the expensive EPB, but if you find yourself speeding down a hill at 100 miles per hour with a hydraulic failure, you should be in a different class of "financial awareness" 😲
  20. Aha! I never noticed that subtile difference. Maybe because everything is flat here anyway and I hardly ever used Hold... Thanks for pointing that out, I'll try to replicate this tomorrow. BTW, the manual also states that by pulling up on the Hold button, it can be used as an emercency brake. I wonder if that is hydraulic, or the "wirring motor" EPB function. I presume the latter. (chapter 4.2, driving procedures)
  21. Two things happen simultaniously when you touch the accelerator to release HOLD mode. The electronic parking brake starts to "unwind", and at the same time the normal crawling takes effect. The parking brake mechanism is a worm wheel that engages/disengages in a second or two. No need to really press the accelerator on flat or slight inclines.
  22. Just take off the bumper. It's easy and at least you see what you're doing.
  23. Agreed, 100 %! That manual contains tens of other of these little functions that you did pay for, but would not easily detect. Mine was delivered with the Hold function set to Manual and (having read the manual...) I found that very strange. That would mean that if you put the car in Park on an incline, the whole 1.7 metric tons would "hang" on the little parking pawl that locks the transmission 😲. Set "Hold" to Auto, please, in the name of that poor little parking pawl! πŸ˜‰
  24. Even that's not necessary, and it was probably copy/pasted from the ICE version. The whole trick here is to get the car's low voltage circuit at least at 12V momentarily, to enable to bootstrap and start the Hybrid system. A GB40 accomplishes that in seconds. Then make sure the system "state" is elevated to "READY" in order to enable the High Voltage battery to charge the 12V battery. The potential 1000 Amps starter capacity of the GB40 will never be used on the RAV4 because it has no starter motor. Not sure if the original question has been answered yet, about what exactly uses the 12 Volt battery, so: all lighting is 12V front and rear wiper motors instrument panels multimedia system door locking alarm system remote control receivers dashboard accessories front and rear (USB connectors) secondary motion/tilt alarm and interior radar (if fitted) lane tracing/assist camera dashcam and various things I forgot ... Part of the above mentioned things, such as door locking receiver, alarm system(s), keyless system, etc. remain always active even if the car is switched off and are often mistaken for a "power leak". Fact is, if you leave the car unused long enough it will drain its 12V battery to a level where it can no longer sustain its most basic services, like unlocking and starting the car. Installing a higher capacity battery only makes that period a bit longer, in the end it will go flat. I love my GB40, so does my wife's Aygo and other family members' non-hybrid Yarises, and the already mentioned Landcruiser. They all loved the 1000 Amp part of the GB40 (# not sponsored) on various occasions. πŸ™‚
  25. Mine started a Landcruiser Diesel with no problem. However when such ICE car has other problems, that require multiple start attempts, a heavier model booster may be required. To help a weak 12V battery get the Hybrid system going, a booster like the NOCO GB40 is sufficient. It is capable of outputting 1000 Amps 😲 but only for short bursts. After that it shuts off before it becomes too hot to handle! NOCO sells a whole range of far heavier boosters if needed, at increasing heavier prices ...
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