toyotavensis

If the facelift didn't change the interior too much, the 2005 54 plate Avensis has the HRW button mounted on a long plastic strip that goes all the way to the passenger door. Starting at that end, it pulls towards you with clips at various intervals, nothing to actually undo. It's been a while since I removed (and successfully replaced) mine so you may want to canvas for more opinions before snapping yours in half.

I came across this thread and idly followed it. Then I tried out using the a/c on the cold and frosty screen I've been having lately. What a revelation. The inside of the windscreen clears so quickly. I have obviously never thought about/understood the term "conditioning" in a/c. It stays on most of the time now. Makes up for the poor performance of the blower. Still haven't worked out what effect the little button down by the headlamp adjuster has.

It's finally happened. 130,000 miles and the clutch gave out so I couldn't get the car into gear. Back to driving by matching the revs and the road speed. Only able to start it up in gear - bit of a pain at junctions. Anyway, new clutch and DMF installed by Toyota agent - loads of money. Now, the heavy clutch pedal has gone, the creaking from the point where the rod goes through the bulkhead has gone. Strangely there was no clutch slip and I never imagined that a symptom of a failing clutch was a heavy pedal action. I still have the original problem of the lack of pep off the line but hey, one problem at a time. Will take a bit of time to examine the DMF as I asked to keep it. Quite a lot of rotation between the parts. Has to be said that the car is a whole lot quieter at idle and has less vibration overall.

I had this problem with '05 Avensis hatchback. The (clean) water collected only in the nearside boot well. There was a little dampness to the edge of the carpet and the foam underneath but nothing else. It has been cured for a year now by resealing the bracket that holds the hatchback strut to the car body. PLEASE support the hatchback with something steady before undoing anything.

I can't say if the EGR needs cleaning in your case as I'm not a service technician. However, if your '04 2.0 D4D has a 1CD-FTV engine then the EGR valve will be on the right hand end of the block/intake manifold, under the black metal channel from the turbo. Look for pics in the general members' gallery under 1CD-FTV EGR.

You don't state what style your car is but I find that the rain drips right in off the glass when I open up the hatchback. I think that some greenhouse glazing rubber strip on the edge of the glass might be enough to stop it. It might even hold back that bit of snow that you didn't clear off properly but is now in the laptop case. While we're on the subject of poor design, who let the Mk2 hatchback out with a hatch that only opens to 1.8m? That means oh so many dents in the forehead from the catch which is just above eye level. And the poor quality pressed cardboard load cover which doesn't even have proper locating hinges or catches. Honestly, my old '97 Fiesta was better designed in all of the above areas. My other interior gripe: why is the majority of the dash made of a reflective material when it could be made of a matt material, like the strip of dash that's nearest the windscreen, and not reflect the sunlight up onto the glass? Perhaps the sun doesn't shine on the test tracks like it does in South Wales! Won't be going back to the Fiesta now that I've got used to the space, pace and comfort of the Avensis.

The arrow in the picture is pointing to the vacuum unit on the turbo. The actuator controls the variable vanes in the turbo. I posted some pics in the general members' gallery under "1cd ftv egr valve" but they will only help if you have a 1cd ftv engine....!

I have no first hand experience of this problem. However, I came across these when searching for something else which also suggest looking at the current drawn by the starter motor. Avensis starting problem links to ilexa.co.uk TOC starting problem

thanks cmia! any help would be gratefully appreciated The last pic, ***9, in the list has the top of the egr valve actuator visible. It's the pot with the black dot on it just above the green plastic trap in the picture.

I've been berated for providing this answer before as I have a 5dr '05 Avensis not a pre-'03. However, I solved my problem of clean water in the well behind the rear wheel that slopped over into the spare tyre well by removing the hatchback gas strut mounting and resealing that with LSX, a plumbing silicone sealant. Result - dry car! Do prop the hatch securely open before attempting to undo the bolts - it is very heavy.

I have posted some photos in the general members' gallery under 1CD-FTV egr valve. If you have a 1CD-FTV engine, they should help. On this model there are three fixing points and the lower one is the hardest to get at. It's useful to have some small bolts or similar to hand to plug the coolant pipes when you disconnect them. Work on a cold engine. Can I ask what the problem is that you are experiencing?

If you have a couple of small bolts handy, you can put them in the ends of the coolant hoses. Very little came out when I removed mine, but I did it on a cold engine and I was ready with the bolts to plug the ends before I tucked them back out of the way.

Sounds like you are on the right track. After removing the top two 12mm nuts, there is a third fixing point at the base, a 12mm bolt. In my pictures in the general members' gallery, the socket is pictured on this bolt. It would be easier to get to it if you completely removed the airbox - I didn't. On this forum, cmia recommends cleaning it in diesel.

I still haven't worked out how to master displaying images. Anyway, the attachment has a marked version of your image. The unit is best seen from the battery side with the complete airbox removed and it's underneath the box in the metal air duct from the turbo. There are more pictures in the 1CD-FTV album in the general members' gallery. On this particular engine I could only find one metal gasket between the unit and the block. On this forum, cmia recommends soaking the valve in diesel to clean it.