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    Yaris D4d

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  1. It's been a number of years since I put up the original post on this matter, but if you read it again you will see I flag up a problem with the back plate of the drum brakes moving out with the hub. My car was a number of years old and the hub was firmly stuck in position, and onto the back plate due to corrosion. Others on the forum have also encountered this problem. If you jack out the hub via two off M12 bolts and nuts (or similar) as per my post, the bolts hold the back plate firmly in place. The method I described prevents the risk not realising the backing plate is moving (e.g when using a hammer etc) and damaging other components. I shared this jacking technique with the wider community as it was very quick, uses commom items we keep in our garages and is unlikey to cause injury to ourselves or damage the car.
  2. My figures for a Mk2 Yaris D4D are as follows: 51,594 miles using 3,590 litres of diesel = 65.46mpg. In the first 20k miles the average was lower at 64.4mpg. I also changed to a heavier grade of oil (i.e. 5w-40) in the last 20k miles, which will have probably reduced the economy slightly.
  3. I agree that is so important to have regular oil change interval with cars that have timing chains. The T-180's also have the same chain driven cams found on some Avensis, Rav's ect (2-AD power units) which use the oil for lubrication. I had an Audi A6 3.2 (Quad cam V6 32 valve) that had a timing chain failure. The cost of replacing that engine was £12776... If I may go slightly off the Yaris subject a bit. £13k for a new engine is some nose bleed, to say the least. Did you get any warning before the chain failed (e.g. rattling from cold etc)? I dread to think what the cost of a new 4.2 litre V8 would be in my RS4 if the timing chain failed. Fortunatley for me this happened to the previous owner of the car. I bought it from auction when the car had only done 200 miles on the new engine. I called Stoke Audi(Where the car came from and had all warranty work done) to find out the history, and they'd informed me of the new engine and given me a print out of all the warranty work that had been done on the car. Its a mad price for an engine. I paid far less than that for the car. Wish I still had it now as it was one of the best (And sounding) cars I've ever owned... Btw... You've got one of my all time fav engines! Gis us a go my mate Yes, the V8 in the RS4 is a good engine and sounds nice as its a cross plane V8. It sounds like an American muscle car or NASCAR on the over run!
  4. I agree that is so important to have regular oil change interval with cars that have timing chains. The T-180's also have the same chain driven cams found on some Avensis, Rav's ect (2-AD power units) which use the oil for lubrication. I had an Audi A6 3.2 (Quad cam V6 32 valve) that had a timing chain failure. The cost of replacing that engine was £12776... If I may go slightly off the Yaris subject a bit. £13k for a new engine is some nose bleed, to say the least. Did you get any warning before the chain failed (e.g. rattling from cold etc)? I dread to think what the cost of a new 4.2 litre V8 would be in my RS4 if the timing chain failed.
  5. As your car will be under maufacturers waranty for a number of years, the least painful way of proving your car has been serviced correctly with OEM parts etc, is to have it done at a Toyota dealer. This would be useful in relation to any future warranty claims you may have to make. My advice would be to ask the garage what the individual costs are for the 30k, 40k, 50k, 60k and 70k services, add them together to see if you are getting value for money. Also, look in your owners manual and make a list of the other items that require changing at the specifeid intervals, such as brake fluid, pollen filter etc. Sometimes the service plans only cover the basics like engine oil/filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and labour. So, I would ask the garage if the additional items are covered. For your information, when I bought my Yaris D4D a couple of years ago, I got a service plan from Benfield for about £340. I did this because the car was under warranty. The £340 service plan covered any three services. So, I would challenge your garage on their service plan costs, find out what is covered and maybe ring a couple more local Toyota franchised dealers.
  6. Taking each question in order. Question: So what is the difference between synthetic and semi synthetic? Answer: The clue is in the question. A fully synthetic oil has a larger percentage of synthetic base oil, per pack of oil, than a semi synthetic oil. I think I have read somewhere a semi can be a minimum of 30% synthetic base oil, maybe others could confirm. Question: What do the 5W mean etc on the bottles? Answer: The 5w refers to the low temperature viscosities for cold cranking and pumping. Each grade (e.g. 0w, 5w, 10w, 15w etc) falls into a band of viscosities at a given cold temperature for cranking and pumping. Generally, the lower the number before the w, the lower the viscosities are for cold cranking and pumping. Question: What should I be getting for a 95 Rav? Answer: Is it petrol or diesel? Have you looked in your Toyota Owners Manual? Maybe go online, say Castrols website, put in your registration number and get their recommendation. Other websites such as opie oils, miller oils, Fuchs, Mobil allow you to do this as well.
  7. I bought some this morning to renew at 6 months along with filter, be prepared! It's now £16.88/5 litre. Toyota recommend it and Pinkstones use it plus it's good for 10k miles or 12 months, so that'll do me. Why pay more unnecessarily? I went to my local Toyota dealer to find out the specification of the "Toyota own brand 5w 30 oil". I could not find any details on the 5 litre container (that I looked at anyway) to indicate if its a mineral oil, semi synthetic oil or fully synthetic oil. The approvals on the container were as follows: ACEA A1/B1, ACEA A5/B5 and API SL. I have looked on the internet and can not find a data sheet to clarify if its mineral, semi or fully synthetic oil and also to check out the other important properties such as the viscosity index, HTHS etc. Someone said it costs £16.88 for 5 litres. Without doing too much investigation I found the following oil on TPS's website: Quantum Synta Z 5w 30 at £12.84 inc VAT for 5 litres, with ACEA A1/B1, ACEA A5/B5, API SM/CF approvals and the data sheet states its fully synthetic. So, in summary, the above Quantum oil has: the same ACEA approvals, a more up to date API approval, the data sheet states its fully synthetic and its £4 cheaper than others say the Toyota oil costs. Indeeed, why pay more?
  8. My owners manual for the 2007 Yaris D4D does not state whether mineral oil, semi synthetic oil or fully synthetic oil should be used. It just provides the required approvals (i.e. ACEA B1, API CF-4 or CF) and states a viscosity of 5w 30 is preferred, however other viscosities may be used. I don't know how you would quantify "no noticeable wear" unless you have stripped down a number of 100k engines, measured the engine components, and compared the results to the manufacturers tolerances. As stated before, I am not a Triboligist, but looking the ACEA oil sequences it can be observed that oils meeting certain approvals must provide a higher degree of wear protection during testing. So, an A3/B4 oil would be expected to provide more wear protection than a B1 oil, as it must have demonstrated A3/B4 levels of wear protection during testing. However, a B1 oil is likely to provide better fuel economy than a A3/B4 oil. In my opinion, just like any other engineering problem, its about matching the demand placed on a material with its capacity. The demand on my car is 30k plus motorway miles per year, and I'll keep the car till it dies. So for me, engine life/wear protection is more important than fuel economy, and therefore I'll stick to an A3/B4 fully synthetic oil.
  9. I try and avoid using phrases like "only the best will do" and "premium quality oil" as I am not a suitably qualified and experienced Triboligist. One of the brands quoted in a previous post has ACEA A3/B3, API SJ/SL/CF approvals, has no OEM approvals and costs about £50 plus for a 5 litre pack. API CF is now obsolete and ACEA A3/B3 oils don't provide the performance levels of a A3/B4 oil. So, I can't see the point in spending £50 on an ester synthetic oil that has lower approvals than something like Quantum Platinum which has A3/B4/C3 approvals, is fully synthetic (probably a Group III base oil), has OEM approvals and costs about £15 for 5 litres. Don't be drawn in by the high price, the fancy packaging and the marketing BS. Look at the standards.
  10. I carry out my own servicing on my 2007 Yaris D4D, and use Quantum Platinum 5w 40 which has ACEA A3/B4/C3 approvals. Its fully synthetic (probably has Group III base stocks), is made by Castrol and costs approximately £15 for 5 litres from TPS. My manual states 5w 30 is preferred with ACEA B1 and API CF-4 (now obsolete) or CF (now obsolete) approvals. ACEA A1/B1 oils are of low friction and viscosity and must provide a minimum fuel economy improvement of 2.5% over a 15w 40 oil. However, when looking at the ACEA oil sequences, A1/B1 oils have a higher degree of permissible wear than A3/B4 oils. The Quantum Platinum also has the VW 505.01 approval for PD engines, so should provide a high degree of wear protection for the cams and followers etc.
  11. It sounds like the wheel bearing has failed. When my rear wheel bearings failed, they also had no play in them but felt slightly rough when turned with no road wheel on. Please find my original post copied in below which details how to change them: 'I have had to change the rear wheel bearings on my Yaris D4D this weekend. There was no radial play in the bearings, but they were making a droning noise at certain road speeds and felt gritty when the hub was rotated with the road wheels removed. I ordered replacement parts from Toyota, which came to five hundred pounds for two new hubs including VAT. The price came as a shock but you cannot just change the bearings, the whole hub including the speed sensor for the ABS must be replaced. The Haynes manual states that the hub assembly can be removed by backing off the hub fixing bolts and striking the said bolt heads with a hammer. I have seen a few posts on this site reference problems with the backing plate for the drum brakes coming off with the hub assembly when impacting the four rear fixing bolts with a hammer and drift. I had exactly the same problems on Saturday. My elder brother, who is a very good mechanic, had a good idea which worked very well. He removed two opposite wheel bolt studs from the hub by striking them from the front with a hammer. They are retained within the bores of the road wheel stud mounting plate via splines on the outer diameter of the studs. He then put two long M12 bolts through the holes, with an M12 nut and washer on each bolt. The nut and washers were on each bolt between its threaded end (which was touching the backing plate) and the road wheel stud plate (so that the washer via the nut was hard up against the rear side of the road wheel stud plate). He simply held the M12 nuts (in turn) with a spanner and gradually turned each bolt head c/wise with a socket/ratchet to jack the hub out. The bolts were in the nine and three o clock positions and nicely missed the brake mechanism. This procedure worked very well and kept the backing plate in position.'
  12. I fitted a set of locking wheel nuts to my 2007 Yaris D4D when I fitted my winter tyres on standard Yaris steel rims. The wheel studs are M12 x 1.5 pitch and the standard Yaris steel rims require a cone seat on the nuts. I used McGard part number: 24157SU. I purchased them off Ebay from a seller called MAPS Ltd for about £27.
  13. I agree with you all the way. However, it is a battle with Insurance Copmanies to make them understand what winter tyres are for. A number of years ago I had a bad experience when informing my insurance company I was fitting winter tyres to my Impreza WRX. I contacted them to try and be up front and completely squeaky clean, in case I had to make a claim. I couldn't believe the response. First of all they jumped to the conclusion I was using the car for rallying, and then I got the usual 1001 excuses why they don't cover the slightest modification to cars. I felt like I was banging my head against a brick wall, and ended up directly contacting the Underwriters. I ended up speaking to a Senior Underwriter who actually understood something about cars, and got a letter in writing saying I was OK to fit the tyres. The problem is this: when you first ring the call centre you get someone who normally has not got a clue about cars and they have no guidelines or training about winter tyres. I don't bother to inform them anymore now. I take the approach that if they tried to void my policy, if I make a claim, the Insurance Ombudsman would make them pay out.
  14. I was coming home tonight and there was an article on Radio 2 about winter tyres. Apparantley, some customers have contacted their Insurance Company before having the tyres fitted, and are being told they will be classed as a modification. This may cause problems if you make a claim and your Insurance Company does not cover modifications. I don't understand how any tyre can be classed as a modification if it has the same rim size, width, profile and (or exceeds) the load index as the original equipment fitted by the car manufacturer. The speed rating does not matter, unless you are caught exceeding it. How can anyone with any intelligence prevent the fitment of tyres which are specifically designed to improve braking traction and cornering grip in winter conditions? After all, they are designed and substantiated by Engineers to provide these important safety functions. Furthermore, most vehicle manufacturers approve the fitment of winter tyres, and state this in their owners manuals. I have winter tyres fitted to my diesel Yaris which I use for work. I fit them between October to April, as I have a 600 mile per week commute over the Pennines. They are an absolute necassity for myself, as summer tyres would be lethal in the conditions we have experienced this week. I just don't understand how Insurance Underwriters in this country can get away with this. Most of our European neighbours are required to fit them by law.
  15. You will not be breaking any laws if you fit T rated tyres to your car, unless you are caught exceeding the said speed rating. A 'T' speed rating permits 118 mph and a 'H' rated tyre permits 130 mph. However, you must equal or exceed the load index. My Yaris D4D also comes with 185/60 R15 84H tyres as standard. In October I fitted my spare set of Vredestein Snowtrac 3's which are: 185/60 R15 88T. I have had the acceptability of this confirmed by the Department of Transport in the past. I had a Subaru Impreza WRX which came with W rated tyres as standard. It used to be impossible to get W rated snow tyres, and I had to drop down to a V rated snow tyre. The DoT sent me a letter saying this was OK, providing I didn't exceed the V rating. P.S. It is good to know there are some like minded people out their who also fit winter tyres to their cars. Most people I have mentioned the use of winter tyres to in the past, seem to think winter tyres either don't exist or are a waste of money. I do 600 miles per week in my D4D over the M62 between Leeds and Warrington, and have never been late for work or stuck in the snow (touch wood).
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