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mikeb

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    celica

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  1. I am looking at buying a used Hilux ('06 or newer model). I've seen lots on autotrader described as 'Hilux Vigo', but there's no mention of the Vigo model/trim designation on toyota's web site. Is the Vigo model name just given to imports, or was the Vigo model ever sold directly in the UK?
  2. Thanks for that, although I'm not sure it is quite what I need. Do you mean this one: http://www.toolsbypost.com/product.php?cat...840&id=2927? I think that only works on OHV engines, and not OHC. The tool I have seen is this one: http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?acti...P=1&LowCt=0, $17 plus shipping.
  3. I am looking for the service tool required for adjusting the valve clearances on a 3s-ge engine. It's used for depressing the bucket so the shim can be removed/replaced without undoing the camshafts. I've seen the tool advertised on an american website, but does anyone know where I might buy one in the UK? (I think it's a fairly standard tool that is used on many toyota OHC engines).
  4. I'm trying to contact you because I have questions about device you mentioned in http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=43316

    Could you write to me on bartek.zdanowski(at] gmail.com ?

    Best regards, Bartek

  5. Thanks Tony. Your photos were very useful - I managed to get the bonnet open earlier on. I decided (from the pictures) that going up round the back would be vey difficult. Instead I undid the three bolts holding the latch mechanism in place (visible in the 5th picture) and raised the bonnet with the latch still attached. It's was quite fiddly though - especially removing the plastic shroud and front trim (you need the bonnet open to get at the screws ). Not sure what caused the problem, but I suspect that the cable was seized. It might be stretched too - but I won't find out until I put it all back together.
  6. Thanks. :) That should make it a bit easier!
  7. The bonnet release on my gen 5 appears to have seized - the release cable is fully extended and won't retract but the bonnet catch is still firmly latched. :( Not sure if the cable has stretched or something else has bent at the catch end. I've tried pushing and lifting the bonnet whilst pulling on the release lever, but no joy. So now I can't get the bonnet open (I can't even move the thing cause the battery is flat too). I need to find a way of releasing the bonnet catch manually - preferably through the front grille or cooling ducts, but (I assume for security reasons) you can't see any of the catch mechanism through the grille. I know the cable comes across from the RHS, but I can't even see or feel it. I'd rather not have to take off the front undertray if it's avoidable - the car is parked on a public road and it's not the nicest place to try and work on it. Could someone take some photo's of the bonnet catch mechanism on a gen 5 and post them up/message them to me please? And has anyone got any tips for popping the release? TIA :)
  8. What was causing it in the end?
  9. I know it's last minute, but I am thinking of coming for the Saturday. Are there any club stand spaces left (anyone drop out?)? And do I still have to pay £20 at the gate, just for one day? If so, I'll go in the public car parking and pay a tenner instead.
  10. all jap cars are limited to 112mph. That's how fast you were going. It is fairly straightforward to derestrict it though.
  11. Ah, that explains it. The SKF front 'kit' includes the seals - toyota charge around £40 for the seals alone! :o
  12. Mine was £46 inc vat and carriage. The SKF part number on mine is VKBA3308.
  13. SKF do a wheel bearing kit (bearing and seals) for the gen5. I expect they do one for the gen6 (it might even be the same). It should cost under £50 for a front bearing. Try Goldline bearings in Telford.
  14. mikeb

    Resonator Box

    Is that white thing hollow? If so, you've still got a resonator chamber (of some description) there. You really need to blank it off flush, or get a new pipe without the hole their. Is it really worth all the messing about?
  15. It doesn't look bad at all mate, I think he's winding you up. Best bet would be to actually take the car for an MOT test - they will tell you exactly what the problem is, if it's a failure issue. MOT testers do seem to be anal about rust on brake and fuel lines, that again is usually just surface rust. A quick wire brush and a coating of waxoyl/tar paint BEFORE the MOT tester see's it usually does the job.
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