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Posts posted by mikeb

  1. I am looking at buying a used Hilux ('06 or newer model). I've seen lots on autotrader described as 'Hilux Vigo', but there's no mention of the Vigo model/trim designation on toyota's web site.

    Is the Vigo model name just given to imports, or was the Vigo model ever sold directly in the UK? :huh:

  2. as far as I know, Machine mart sell this item.

    EDIT - just looked on their website and couldn't find it.There's one in their catalogue though, in the Hand Tools section. CHT452 - OHV Valve spring compressor - about 15 quid.

    Thanks for that, although I'm not sure it is quite what I need. Do you mean this one: http://www.toolsbypost.com/product.php?cat...840&id=2927? I think that only works on OHV engines, and not OHC.

    The tool I have seen is this one: http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?acti...P=1&LowCt=0, $17 plus shipping.

  3. I am looking for the service tool required for adjusting the valve clearances on a 3s-ge engine. It's used for depressing the bucket so the shim can be removed/replaced without undoing the camshafts.

    I've seen the tool advertised on an american website, but does anyone know where I might buy one in the UK? (I think it's a fairly standard tool that is used on many toyota OHC engines).

  4. Thanks Tony. :thumbsup: Your photos were very useful - I managed to get the bonnet open earlier on.

    I decided (from the pictures) that going up round the back would be vey difficult. Instead I undid the three bolts holding the latch mechanism in place (visible in the 5th picture) and raised the bonnet with the latch still attached. It's was quite fiddly though - especially removing the plastic shroud and front trim (you need the bonnet open to get at the screws :wacko: ). Not sure what caused the problem, but I suspect that the cable was seized. It might be stretched too - but I won't find out until I put it all back together.

  5. The bonnet release on my gen 5 appears to have seized - the release cable is fully extended and won't retract but the bonnet catch is still firmly latched. :( Not sure if the cable has stretched or something else has bent at the catch end. I've tried pushing and lifting the bonnet whilst pulling on the release lever, but no joy. So now I can't get the bonnet open (I can't even move the thing cause the Battery is flat too).

    I need to find a way of releasing the bonnet catch manually - preferably through the front grille or cooling ducts, but (I assume for security reasons) you can't see any of the catch mechanism through the grille. I know the cable comes across from the RHS, but I can't even see or feel it. I'd rather not have to take off the front undertray if it's avoidable - the car is parked on a public road and it's not the nicest place to try and work on it.

    Could someone take some photo's of the bonnet catch mechanism on a gen 5 and post them up/message them to me please? And has anyone got any tips for popping the release? TIA :)

  6. All sorted now :D

    The clowns had the cheek to say it was doing it all along, but i didn't notice before because the clutch was slipping :huh:

    But they fixed it for me, like they were doing me a favour.

    What was causing it in the end?

  7. I know it's last minute, but I am thinking of coming for the Saturday. Are there any club stand spaces left (anyone drop out?)? And do I still have to pay £20 at the gate, just for one day? If so, I'll go in the public car parking and pay a tenner instead.

  8. Hi Guys.

    Just got back from showing those little Corsa kids how to drive.

    I have got an Imported Gen 6 2.0L BEAMS. I was going around 120-125mph in 5th gear at about 5000rpm (redline 7000rpm) when it felt that the engine bounced back of a restricter, ie when you go into the red. The car was still pulling well until this.

    Do any of you know why this has happended??

    Are the Jap cars restricted ??

    Any ideas

    By the way if you were wondering i did leave the corsa and its spotty owner.

    all jap cars are limited to 112mph. That's how fast you were going. It is fairly straightforward to derestrict it though.

  9. Mike your part number is the catalogue part number. I was referring to the number etched on the bearing. Sorry for any confusion. :thumbsup:

    Ah, that explains it. The SKF front 'kit' includes the seals - toyota charge around £40 for the seals alone! :o

  10. SKF do a wheel bearing kit (bearing and seals) for the gen5. I expect they do one for the gen6 (it might even be the same). It should cost under £50 for a front bearing. Try Goldline bearings in Telford. :thumbsup:

  11. Well, I used a 75p peice of plumming from homebase to fit the hole. If it does make a difference to sound, its too subtle for me to notice. So, waste of time there, if your thinking about doing this, I wouldn't bother.


    Is that white thing hollow? If so, you've still got a resonator chamber (of some description) there. You really need to blank it off flush, or get a new pipe without the hole their. Is it really worth all the messing about?

  12. It doesn't look bad at all mate, I think he's winding you up. Best bet would be to actually take the car for an MOT test - they will tell you exactly what the problem is, if it's a failure issue.

    MOT testers do seem to be anal about rust on brake and fuel lines, that again is usually just surface rust. A quick wire brush and a coating of waxoyl/tar paint BEFORE the MOT tester see's it usually does the job.

  13. Losing that quantity of oil would show somewhere, I'd have thought - like leaving puddles or clouds of smoke out the back. All you can do really is keep an eye on it and see if it carries on at that rate.

  14. keep an eye on it - the 7afe engines all use oil so maybe with the 3sfe engine sharing the same block it might suffer from the same problem.

    I don't think they are the same block? :unsure:

    And it's the pistons that are important in the 7a-fe engines oil consumption. I'm pretty sure they don't have those in common with the 3s-fe.

  15. I'm fairly sure all the 2 litre gen 5 variants (excluding maybe the GT-4??) have the same rear brakes - drums for the handbrake with an outer disc/caliper arrangement for the footbrake. I think the fronts are the only brake related part that was changed in the facelift - early models have 255m discs, later models 277m discs.

    The shoes should never wear out (assuming the handbrake is only used when stationary) - but the disc/drum is all one assembly so you have to replace it when the rear discs are shot.

  16. At the wheels Mike. :thumbsup: Intersting chat with the bloke running the dyno about transmision loss. He reckoned that i was only losing around 40 - 45 BHP. which is only around 20% I was expecting it to be more than that. He tried explaining how it all works, but it just went straight over my head. :wacko:

    That sounds about right for transmission loss. Generally, losses are estimated as about:

    15% for FWD

    17% for RWD

    +5% for 4WD

    The WI should help significantly when you get it sorted. :thumbsup:

  17. That mesh looks very fine - I hope it doesn't affect your cooling system.

    For the spraying, just find a small local bodyshop who will do it for cash. It should be cheaper than buying all the spray kit yourself, and will be a better result

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