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mikeb

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Everything posted by mikeb

  1. Sotal's car has a different engine - the belt might be cheaper, and fitting it is definitely easier (quicker). Your price isn't too bad for a 3s-ge belt.
  2. Yes, same place on a gen 5.
  3. Is the squeaking coming from the front? Could well be your wheelbearing and hub knackered. It sounds a bit like the problem I had - the squeaking at least, although I didn't kill the ABS sensor. It's quite a common fault. What happens is (for some reason) the wheel bearing inner shell turns on the hub axle thingy and beacuse the bearing shell is harder material it wears down the hub. This lets the entire hub/driveshaft assembly wobble around and the ABS sensor rubs on the toothed wheel. If it's got bad it could have killed the ABS sensor. Try jacking up the front wheels check for play.
  4. You can use either Dexron II ATF or 75w-90 EP oil. Either should be fine (just like it says in the handbook). ATF should give easier gear changes from cold than 75w-90, but with slightly less wear protection.
  5. I wish I had lost 2 stone! Got it all done in the end - new wheel bearing and hub fitted, and rebuilt the drive shaft with new boots at both ends. Also replaced the gearbox oil with fresh Motul 75w-90 - not convinced that the changes are as smooth as they were before though. If it gives me any trouble I guess I'll be swapping it for ATF. And whilst I was doing it I noticed my radiator is leaking where the bottom cap is crimped on. Not happy about that. Oh yeah, while mine was off the road I borrowed my Mum's gen7 (140) a couple of times. Handles quite nicely, but felt really lacking in low down torque.
  6. Got it out in the end - using a 3 foot jemmy from one side and a two foot one from the other. Can't get a replacement circlip in time, so I'm going to have to rebuild it with the existing one. Also managed to remove the old wheel bearing from the hub carrier using a combination of a vice and a lump hammer. Going to get the new one pressed in properly so I don't damage it.
  7. If you have a dimmer on your dash lights you don't want to use to the post dimmer supply to feed your light. Take a feed from the headlamp stalk switch for the sidelights or the feed into the dash light dimmer.
  8. Yes, it's the left hand drive shaft, and the outside end is dangling free - I have removed it from the hub carrier. So far i've tried with a 2 foot pry bar and I can't get it to budge, it's just bending the dust cover on the drive shaft. I will go and try the chisel method.
  9. Gen 5, ST182. I suspect the gen 4 and 6 are similar though??
  10. Alright then, what holds the drive shaft into the diff?? According to my haynes manual it says that it's a spline type thing and it can just be levered out. But that's seriously not working. :( Anyone know how it comes out?
  11. Like dak says, I think it can be done without removing the whole dash. Just the centre console and some other small panels. Looks like a fiddly job though.
  12. I wouldn't bother about it, they don't make any difference to actual performance. The flywheel only affects how quickly the engine picks up/slows down when it's out of gear - i.e. between gears. Also, the flywheel will be balanced as a package with the crank, if you change it they won't be a balanced pair any more. On top of that I think the torsional damper on the crank pulley will become less effective - the lighter flywheel will shift the harmonic frequencies of the bottom end. Toyota made the flywheel the weight that it is for a reason (mainly idle speed), if it could be made lighter without compromising something they would have done it - it would have saved them money afterall.
  13. The low level warning light sensor is a separate sensor to the fuel guage sensor. I drove mine for 30 miles with the light on constantly, and then drained the tank, and it still had 2 gallons left! So there must have been about 3 gallons when the light came on solid. Yours may well be different though.
  14. It could be a dodgy servo valve in the PAS system, although I've not come across it before. How much difference is there between the two directions?
  15. There's a time interval as well, I think they should be changed every 5(??) years, regardless of mileage.
  16. Anyone dare to crosspost this to a scooby forum?
  17. Welcome. :) I find it very hard to believe that the celica's handling is on par with a 4wd Imprezza though.
  18. Maybe you need a new rad cap? (It's worth eliminating the basics first)
  19. The beams is rev 4 (not sure if that's an official designation or not). I wouldn't bother swapping just the head anyway. It's just as easy to pull the whole engine, and it's probably cheaper to buy a complete rev 3 engine than it would be to buy a c/head by itself. You will also need all the manifolds and intake system, engine loom, and ecu, and maybe some other stuff. Then you've got to worry about the clutch and gearbox being able to handle it.
  20. 1) Chilton or Haynes paperback (from the hanyes website) 2) What dak said. I hope you have small hands, and expect skinned skinned knuckles. You will probably need an impact gun for the crank pulley bolt. 3) Not sure, many parts are interchangable between gen 5 and 6, not sure about 4 though. 4) The cylinder head is different between the 3 revisions of the 3s-ge (rev 1 = 147hp, rev 2 = 158hp, rev 3 = 173hp). That's the main reason for the power difference. Also, the rev 2 and 3 have a tubular exhaust manifold, which is probably worth about 5-10hp to you. Not sure if it is interchangable onto the rev 1 head though. The bottom ends are more or less the same except possibly slightly different pistons due to the different compression ratios and valve pocketing.
  21. I spy a bit of a beast on the far left hand side of the workshop. ;) Does the prop block access to the fuel pump on the gt4 then? And I still think you're going to be needing forged pistons soon.
  22. Interesting. So do the JDM cars have 3 rear seats instead of 2?
  23. mikeb

    Celica Alloys

    You should really have complained within the 3 year warranty period. But if you kick up enough fuss, they just might do something about it. 'Fit for purpose' and all that.
  24. Weird - there are only two rear seats so you should only have two seat belts, but they should be full seat belts not just lap belts. Front and rear belts should all be inertia - unless the intertia mechanism has failed. Assuming imports are the same as uk models - and I would have thought they are.
  25. It does sound like buckled wheels, and quite a few people have had problems with the gen 7 17" wheels buckling easily. It is possible that the tyres are out of balance, but highly unlikely that more than one of them would be. Quite often if a wheel is out of true, you can see it wavering on the balancing machine as it spins. Something to consider looking at.
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