Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Advanced Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mikeb

  1. Just an update on this: The price from Mr T for the bearing was £81.83+VAT, and £33.85+VAT for the seal kit. But SKF do a kit with bearing and seals (I think the part no. is VKBA 3308). I paid £35+VAT from Goldline Bearings (thanks beardie) in Telford - quite a saving! :D Just got to make it fit now.
  2. All alternators have a rectifier and voltage regulator built in. If you have a car with a dynamo (so that wouldn't be a celica then!), then the regulator will be an external box.
  3. Any mods will make large difference, especially without any NCB to tame it. I think it boils down to you having the worst combination possible: Young driver Accident history No NCB Imported model Modifications Try getting a quote for a standard UK GT, it might be worth swapping to what is effectively the same car. Also make sure you tell them what your annual mileage is going to be - you say you're not going to use it much so make your mileage clear to them. Edited to say - my insurance has always been less than £450 a year on all of my cars, right from when I was 17, and always in my own name as well. :D
  4. Yes - don't even bother! ;) That thing is the biggest piece of nonsense I've seen in ages. You'd do much better to spend your £33 on petrol, or something else constructive.
  5. mikeb

    New Car!

    I didn't mean riding the clutch, I meant letting it out gently like you do in a normal start. Non organic clutches don't even like that - they are designed for race applications where you sidestep the clutch at 4000 rpm. ;)
  6. mikeb

    New Car!

    I don't like the WRC spoiler either! You might have to keep an eye on that clutch, non-organic ones are not designed for slipping (i.e normal launches), and they tend to wear really fast if you use them like a traditional clutch.
  7. Well, if the seat didn't slide it would be even harder! Is it really such a major issue anyway? Most other cars have more serious flaws than the reseting of the passenger seat!
  8. It's not just the gaitor that needs changing though - the seal in the end of the rack must have failed for fluid to get into the gaitor. I don't know how difficult it is to replace the seal. Could also be worth checking the pas pump (on the back of the engine - difficult to see from above), for leakage.
  9. In most other cars the seat doesn't slide at all when you tilt it - just the back moves. ;)
  10. mikeb

    New Car!

    That is a great looking car, and an absolute bargain for the price. A bit miffed by the paddle clutch on an otherwise standard car though. And the gen 7 seats are a step backwards IMO.
  11. mikeb

    Air Con

    Yeah, that. If it really is petrol, you have a very serious problem!
  12. So now we know why the gen 6 in lighter than the gen 5 - they left out the sound deadening! You mean when you're re-doing your lippy, sotal? :P
  13. mikeb

    Best Price

  14. Blimey - I know people are running that turbo as a 'big' single on supra engines, and that's 50% bigger capacity!
  15. It only says he was driving it, it doesn't mention if he was the owner. I guess most normal owners wouldn't be trying to outrun a police car?
  16. Actually, there is quite a low possibility that the emgine is damaged - quite a few people now have suffered snapped cambelts without damage. The only way to tell for sure is to fit a new belt (~£40 for a genuine Toyota). If there is internal damage, you will probably find it easier to swap the whole engine than fit a new c/head.
  17. Sometimes there's a sticker on the cam belt cover that shows the date and mileage of the last cam belt change. There's not really any way of 'checking' the condition of the belt, it should just be changed at the recommended service intervals. If in doubt, it might be worth getting it done with your next service.
  18. Is there much advantage to using that turbo on a stock bottom end? I mean, the pistons restrict usable boost to <1.2 bar don't they, and the stock turbo is happy at that level. Does this one spool quicker or something? Is it a dual ball bearing jobbie?
  19. Then replace the igniter unit. It's most likely to be the sensors in the dizzy though, don't worry about the igniter until you have eliminated the dizzy from the equation.
  20. The crank sensor tells the ECU what position in their cycle the crank and pistons are in. It needs this information to know when to fire the fuel injectors and ignition spark - without it, there is no way your engine will run. There are actually 3 sensors in the dizzy for this purpose - Ge1, Ge2, and Ne. It's all expained here (pages 5 and 13 are particularly useful for you): http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf I still think it's worth sticking a multimeter in the connector and checking the resistances before you buy any replacement parts. It could just be a dodgy connector or wiring, or it might even be a faulty igniter (I think code 12 potentially covers this as well).
  21. Maybe there are a few UK autos about, they must be pretty rare though. Just had a look in the manual, and the rad does have the trans cooler integral to it. Looks fairly simple though, just a few extra pipes to undo. Remember to top up your trans fluid afterwards. Also, you will probably find that you have to remove the fans from the rad before you can lift it out, and install the new one in the car before you refit the fans.
  22. Well, if Booster has pulled up the correct EPC page, it looks like 19235 to me (thats not the full part number though). But I can see it being an expensive part, so you should really check yours out before you shell out for a new one. It's very easy to check the resistances if you have a multimeter (or get a friend to do it). I am surprised that the components are not available separately. I'd be inclined to get a second hand replacement from TCB.
  23. The air gap should be between .008" and .016" These might help:
  24. No, the dizzy also has the angular position sensor inside it (i.e. the crank position sensor). It connects with a 4 pin connector, and provides signals G1, G2, and NE to the ECU. There is NO toothed wheel or position sensor on the crank on these cars, it's all done from the dizzy. Looking at the EPC pictures, it appears that you can only buy the housing complete with the sensors.
  25. It's easy to change. Well, it is on a manual car. The auto might be a bit more fiddly if the rad has the transmission cooler built in. And if it does, then a new rad might be an expensive part - the auto was never a UK model, so it's an import only part.
  • Create New...