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Everything posted by mikeb

  1. He said in his first post that he has the 158hp 3s-ge, I don't think we need to question that?? If you really are getting to 140 then you're probably hitting the rev limiter, and it doesn't surprise me that you killed a bottom end at that!
  2. Where do you get +8mpg from?? Current 2L = 35.3 combined, new 1.4T =38.2 combined, so that's less than 3 mpg difference. If you're so knowledgable on vauxhall engines perhaps you'd like to enlighten us as to how GM 'restricted' the e16se engine from 170hp down to 100hp?? I've built a couple of these engines myself as 3 of my friends race them, and we'd love to know how to get an easy, streetable 170hp.
  3. No - Men drive 200+bhp cars. No - It doesn't sound interesting. No - I wont buy one. YES - some muppet will be racing you in one soon. What are you getting so worked up about? The point is that VW are trying to improve the economy of their cars without losing performance. It's not meant to be a superfast hot hatch or anything. Admittedly, that second article is getting a bit excited about what is effectively a 3 mpg improvement. You've been reading too much fiction mate!
  4. UK Gen 5 3s-ge = 158 hp (without cat) UK Gen 6 3s-ge = 173 hp (with cat)
  5. Is that a manufacturer's specs top speed, or a real world verified road speed? ;)
  6. Finally got round to looking at my car today, to try and identify the worrying grinding/squealing noise from the front wheel area. Found considerable slop in the LH front wheel bearing, so I stripped it down to find the common problem of the hub turning inside the bearing inner shell. The hub is rather knackered, and the bearing clearly needs replacement. :( The bearing arrangement looks quite under engineered for a heavy FWD car. So who's done this job before on a gen 5 (I think the gen 6 is very similar??)? Three questions: 1) Is the bearing a press fit in the steering knuckle? (It looks like it's not, but held in place with a circlip) 2) Has anyone found the bearing outer shell turned in the steering knuckle, trashing that as well? 3) Where can I get a new bearing and seal kit from (apart from Mr T)?
  7. Maybe you have an aftermarket rev counter or something, but the gen 5 /158hp engine redlines at 7000rpm. According to the manufacturer's data, top speed is 137mph, but that's incredibly optimistic. 120mph is closer to reality. If your car has a manual gearbox with the standard ratios, you should see about 3750 rpm at 80mph. I can't help you with the shock absorber other than I would expect it to be the same as the UK part. Not sure what you mean by 'electronic one'? Brake disks can be had from lots of places. I think the cheapest I found fronts for was from 'buypartsby'. It is highly unlikely that a gen7 steering wheel will fit a gen 5.
  8. That's about 25mpg, which isn't wide of the mark really. Ultimately it's down to your driving style, journey type and the ambient temperature. I think that if the lambda sensor is shot, you'd be talking about worse than 20 mpg.
  9. Firing order is 1-3-4-2. I think just about every I4 engine is. Not sure if then gen 6 has coil packs or a dizzy, but the coil primary should measure about 0.5 ohms, the secondary should be about 10k ohms. Not sure what units those numbers are that you gave - but if they're k ohms across each coil pack, they are probably about right. Anyway, a failed coil/coilpack is not usually an intermittent fault - it's normally terminal. It's difficult to measure the HT leads for breaking down, but it might be worth spraying wd40 or similar around the dizzy/ign components if they are damp. Otherwise you might just need a new set of plugs.
  10. The gen 5 has a huge boot for a coupe, I'd be surprised if the gen 6 is much smaller. Fair enough it might be smaller than a calibra's - but that's a small price to pay for proper rear suspension instead of that trailing arm !Removed!.
  11. Pads from toyota, discs from anywhere. Not sure about your wheel bearing - how many miles has your car done?
  12. I can't comment on that particular wideband. But I would say that a wideband O2 sensor is almost essential for any (properly) tuned vehicle for monitoring purposes, and contrary to what others have said, it is quite feasible to map a car well on the road in conjunction with a wideband O2 - for an experienced mapper anyway. If you are feeling confident, there are diy wideband kits available. The next most important aftermarket sensor for a turbo car is exhaust gas temp (EGT).
  13. The ICV is the white plastic thing with the connector unplugged under the throttle body in this picture (ignore the bits circled in red): Also check your ignition components.
  14. You've got an ST mate - just wait till you need new piston rings! :o :!Removed!: What was wrong with ALL 4 springs and dampers? Clutch - whats the mileage?
  15. Mine has never failed one yet - not bad for a 15 year old car. :)
  16. I'm not sure the fuel filter and gearbox oil need changing at 27k miles?
  17. mikeb


    I think the carina is the base car for the celica - much of the celica's running gear was borrowed from the carina!
  18. I don't think there is a manual way of ajusting idle speed - the ECU does it all under closed loop. The only component to check (directly) regarding idle speed is the idle control valve. Make sure it's not gunked up. If it was faulty, I think your idle speed would be constant and probably on the high side (2k rpm). From your symptoms it does not sound like the ICV to me though, and these kind of faults are usually mechanical. Also check for vacuum leaks (split/disconnected hoses) on the inlet piping, especially the piping to the MAP sensor. I doubt that resetting the ECU would achieve much - the only relearning part is the idle contol valve characteristics (although if it is clogged up an ECU reset would be required following cleaning). Resetting the ECU just causes an erratic idle while the ECU relearns how to get the correct idle speed back. It may be worth doing a compression check, if you have a compression test gauge.
  19. Any parts in particular? The cars are mostly the same. There are subtle differences though - no rear fog lights on JDM (twin brakes instead), different shape number plate surround. 112 mph speed limiter. Probably some other little things like that.
  20. I was going to suggest turbo/supercharging of this engine, but to do it from the ground up would be much more expensive than that kit. I think the 3s-fe should be able to cope with 6 psi (maximum) of boost in standard form. BUT it would be essential to get the fueling spot on - and I don't see anything in that 'kit' that would sort the fueling.
  21. 1500 tops. Pains me to say it, but realistically that's the most any buyer would pay.
  22. Yes, probably. That's not the whole story though, there are probably gains across the rev range. But what more do you expect without changing anything mechanical on the engine? And the only other mod that I can thing of for similar money that would offer more bang per buck is nitrous - and that's aimed at occasional use.
  23. £470 fitted and mapped at Thor: http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/Greddy-104.asp Looks like a good deal to me.
  24. Personally, I like the look of the emanage ultimate - it's got loads of features, and some stuff that other piggybacks can't do. One of my friends had a few bad experiences with a unichip, which put me off it. You might get 5% or so more power from an NA engine with one of these properly set up.
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