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Everything posted by mikeb

  1. There's a massive amount of doubt. You'd need to use an engine dyno (i.e. not a chassis dyno) to even attempt to measure any improvements made by changing the air filter. Anyone who says they can 'feel' the difference from the driving seat is suffering from the effect of placebo (or the extra noise). The OEM airbox and ducting provides a cold air feed, and it was computer designed by the same people that know all the parameters of the engine, not some 3rd party tuning company that designed an 'induction kit' without full knowledge of the engine. I could imagine that a ram pipe (i.e. ducting to the front of the car) to pick up ram air whilst travelling at speed would be about the only thing to improve performance. But again, the OEM ducting already does this to an extent, with the inlet just behind the headlight (on the gen 5, not sure where it is on the gen 6). Well they would say that, they sell the things afterall. Foam air filters usually offer shocking filtration - that's OK for a race car where the engine will be rebuilt regularly, but most people don't want to do that with a road car.
  2. 'Induction kit' DOES NOT EQUAL 'forced induction'. They are two very different things. An air filter does not force air into the engine, the downward action of the pistion sucks it in. Yes it goes through the air filter, which could be a potential restriction. But anyone who has actually measured the pressure drop across an OEM air box/filter arrangement will be aware that any gains from aftermarket filters are absolutely negligible. Of course rally cars, touring cars and F1 cars don't have 'induction kits'. Have you ever seen them on the shelves at halfords or in the demon tweeks catalogue? They have tuned custom induction systems to match the rest of the engine. The whole setup is shockwave tuned, do you really think aftermarket induction kits achieve the same thing? Oh, and rally cars have forced induction (turbo), touring cars are NA, so the induction requirements are quite different. ???? Did you actually read my post, the bit where I stated: "But yes, you would invalidate your own insurance, so it's not a very clever thing to do." That's called being polite - obviously something you still have to learn. Again, the American bloke was just pointing out that in the US, their car insurance companies are much more reasonable when it comes to modifications. In the situation you describe, I'm sure the at fault parties insurance would pay out to an innocent the 3rd party.
  3. Well technically, if they drive into you it's their fault, and their insurance company pays up, regardless of what mods you have. But yes, you would invalidate your own insurance, so it's not a very clever thing to do. What are you on about?? Seeing as an air filter is a passive component - it does nothing but sit there and filter out dirt from the intake, and petrol is an active component at the heart of the combustion process, I'd say that they are right and you are wrong. ;) Did you not notice that the poster was from the US, and that he was pointing out how we are raped by our insurance companies here in the UK by having to declare every single little mod, whereas over there insurance companies just cover them? I'd say you are the tool. Vacuum across the air filter in a forced induction setup is pretty much irrelevent, when compared to an NA engine. And why does every heavily modified car in the world have forced induction?
  4. You will need to spend serious money to get any more power from the beams engine - it's already in a high state of tune. One option would be to get the 'black top' beams engine from a Toyota Altezza (imported IS200) and transplnt it/swap heads. It has dual VVTI and give another 5 or so bhp. You sure it's not an import? I've never heard of a UK gen 6 with the 3s-fe (although some MR2's had it, so it's not totally inconceivable). Well, considering the current owner paid £5k for it a month ago, and he's put miles on it since then - you'd be pretty silly to pay £6k for it. ;) Did you read the discussion above? Yes, it's technically possible, but that doesn't make it viable. And yes, with the right mix of components it should be possible to stroke a 3s-ge out to 2.2L. Probably block, crank and rods from a 5s-fe, pistons and head from a 3s-ge. You may have trouble finding a cam belt of a suitable length though... You must live a 'bad' area or something. I am 26 and paying ~330 fully comp on my ST182.
  5. 3s-fe is the same bore and stroke as the 3s-ge. The block is the same, I'm pretty sure the crank and rods are the same. But the 3s-ge pistons are pocketed for the valves. Now, the 3s-fe head has it's valves at 60 degrees, the 3s-ge are at 45 degrees IIRC. Also, the squish area, and CR will be different, so I am totally convinced that the pistons will need to be replaced as well. And even if you didn't have to swap the pistons - it won't be a couple of hundred quid to swap the c/head over! More like £1000+ (not even including labour). Parts you will need to swap: complete cylinder head assembly, cambelt, possibly pulleys and tensioner Inlet and exhaust manifolds and pipework Engine wiring harness ECU Fuel rail (and probably most of the rest of the fuel system) ACIS VSV, vac tank, piping These are just the things I can think of off the top of my head. A complete engine transplant would be cheaper and less work than rebuilding your's with a different c/head.
  6. It's the best way really. I don't think a GE head will work properly without changing the pistons as well. Whatever, the cheapest way to more power is to upgrade to a car with a more powerful engine.
  7. Go here, and start reading. Once you've read everything that's relevent, post in their forums. They will help you. http://www.pepipoo.com Goodluck. Oh, and the LTI 20-20 is notoriously 'dodgy'. ;)
  8. Fully comp usually covers you to drive other cars, BUT only if they're not registered in your name - which it would be if you've just bought it.
  9. At the end of the day it comes down to personal opinion - they (presumably ) like the cosmetic mods that they've done to their own car, but you may not agree with them. Fair enough, but it's only an opinion - what makes your's right and their's wrong? (I'm trying to play devils advocate here to an extent). There are plenty of people who use TOC who have cosmetically modified their cars in ways which, frankly, make them valid candidates for barryboys, but we don't slate them on here.
  10. They are a bunch of !Removed! with too much time on their hands. Granted, most of the cars they 'feature' are total abortions, but I don't see the need to go around taking photo's and then posting them on the internet, just so they can all join in the slating. Most rational people just snigger under their breath and then carry on with their lives when they see a badly modified car, don't they?
  11. I couldn't see it under the bonnet on mine when I had a quick look the other day. It's certainly not in either of the two main fuse/relay boxes.
  12. Well said. :) When the gen 5 first came out it was praised for it's good brakes. I had a polo for a hire car a while back, and the brakes were on/off like a switch. It was horrible to drive in traffic.
  13. Nobody said he did :) . But you have to remove the screws and studs at the front of them where it attaches to the h/lamp motor access panels. Sorry my bad for not describing it properly. Bit rushed. Sorry misread your post re. arch liners, but you still don't need to remove the front wheels. :P Not sure about the MR2 wiring. Electrically, they are probably very similar, but I wouldn't expect the loom to be the same length. Have you tried TCB (see stickies) for the parts you need?
  14. mikeb


    Fuses only blow once - they wouldn't explain why your clock comes on and off. Sounds more like some dodgy wiring associated with your stereo.
  15. Woah there, slow down a minute. You're trying to remove the rad to get access to the lighting loom? Fair enough, but the rad out is an easy job, removing the front bumper won't help you to get it out. ;) Just remove the fans, undo the pipes (there is a drain tap on the RHS), unbolt the clamps at the top and the rad just lifts out. If you really want to remove the front bumper, it doesn't need the wheel arch liners removing anyway. You need to undo the the undertray from the bumper underneath the car, remove the plastic cover on top (and the carbon fibre cross peice - undo the sidelights for this), then there are the fiddly little bits in the air inlet opening thingy (looking up). They are push clips, and they don't unscrew (even though it looks like they should). Use a small flat screwdriver to prise the middle bit out, and then the whole clip can be removed, and the metal brackets that they hold. Hope that makes sense, it's not easy to describe these things. Oh, and the bumper clips into the front wings, you need to pull the edge of the bumper straight out the left and right to release it (or prise it out from behind).
  16. Depends which model you have: SS1 - not sure but maybe the same as UK GT (possibly different ratios??, output shafts??). SS2 - Probably the same as UK GT SS3 - I think this one has an LSD, not sure if it's the same otherwise. As long as you don't get a box from an ST (1.8) it should mate to the engine, just the drive shafts that might be different.
  17. I'm sure you can get them cheaper than that.
  18. You've just put 17" wheels on. Assuming your old wheels were smaller, then you can expect a harsher ride. Big wheels are for cosmetic purposes only, pretty much everything else about them is bad. Tyre pressures should be around 30-35 pounds, depending on the tyres themselves, and how you want to balance the front-rear grip.
  19. I've done 36k miles in 3 years, so exactly 1000 miles per month average. And at 28 mpg average that's over £4500 worth of fuel... :!Removed!:
  20. It's best to dyno at 1:1 gear ratio (which should be 4th on an ST205??).
  21. He was saying that he wants a GT4 but is put off because he's had problems with a turbo car before (i.e. comparing the reliability of an RS turbo to a GT4):
  22. An Escort RS turbo is hardly the epitome of reliability though is it. Please don't compare it to a Toyota. Both the gt and gt4 are very reliable cars, but as with any vehicle of this age, if it's not been looked after then you could be in for expensive problems. Just got to choose carefully, scrutinise service history etc. The only slight weakness is headgaskets, but I suspect most cases are due to abuse/neglect - too much boost, knackered cooling system etc. If you want a gt4 you are probably best to go for it, otherwise you will probably be regretting it later.
  23. Thermostat, Coolant temp sensor, cold start injector temp sensor (maybe?), air intake temp sensor, map sensor.
  24. Probably not. I think the st162 has a cast manifold, the st182 is tubular. As for the rest of it, I doubt that it will match up.
  25. UK cars didn't have a lambda sensor or cat until '92.
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