Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Adam C

    Egr Valve

    Oh right, thought the lad I work with was talking rubbish (as he often does)! I don't see how it lowers combustion temperatures though, surely it's venting hot exhaust gasses . . . this is one part of an engine I haven't got my head around. To me it sounds like just another part they fit to go tonto; if it's not head gaskets, DPFs or turbos failing on the D-4D engines, it's EGR valves! Though wonder if that's just down to diesel soot particles clogging them up? Any idea if the 1NR-FE 1.33 Dual VVT-i engine (with Stop/Start) in the Yaris mk2 and iQ3 has one? Don't think my 2SZ-FE unit has one. Looking to get another Yaris with the 1.33 engine soon. If the Denso ECUs on the D-CATs can't be 'rigged' so that the DPF can be removed, I doubt they'll accept an EGR valve bypass on an iQ. Unless the iQ ECU isn't a Denso . . .
  2. Adam C

    Egr Valve

    I just noticed this conversation while scratching my head . . a lad at my work said something about an EGR valve on his Corsa. I questioned this as I didn't think petrol engines had these - only diesels. Coming onto here I've noticed from this thread that petrols do indeed have EGR valves? Do all petrols? Gonna have to inspect my motor tomorrow now as I have no idea if it has one
  3. Same 1ND-TV engine that exists in the Yaris D-4D as far as I'm aware. I've briefly driven two Yarises with these engines and (at least in those cars) they are good engines
  4. My nana had issues with her car firing up. R reg Starlet was sometimes having trouble starting which I traced to her pressing the accelerator a little on start-up, flooding the engine. I was once advised to do this practice but there is no need, the car's ECU looks after it unaided. Just wondering if that may be what's been happening here also? My dad's car has been having issues with oil leaks due to it not getting enough running. He only really drives it around the doors so it can't boil away the condensation in the oil system. That then blocks the breather pipes and oil leaks over the engine. I always ensure my Yaris gets plenty of good running so I usually refuse family favours of driving them around the block etc, as a result it runs like a dream
  5. When I got my Yaris TR new (in September 2008 back when I was 21, first brand new car), I always made sure it was driven gently though I used lower gears than I'd usually use at first to bed the engine in and to avoid labouring it. Avoided big stops & just basically kept it all smooth. Often had the engine running when I did my weekly tyre pressures to listen to it. As mentioned by Red Yaris 54, I also varied road speed so avoided long runs at constant speeds. Once or twice I was provoked into 'flirting with the revs' though reading a comment by alfiejts, doing so may have done a good thing in burning off an oil glaze. I'm now thinking I could've used higher revs in the running-in phase as a small theory I have, it may help the engine when it is run at high revs (such as brisk acceleration) although that surely isn't essential. Now at 37,000 miles the car is still sweet as a nut and a pleasure to drive. The motor is incredible, has a lot of pull, keen to rev and fuel efficient. Usually driven gently though not afraid of using the revs where it takes my fancy (within the law though). It's also never used a drop of oil. So I'd just say the method I used compares well to Red Yaris 54, if not exactly the same, and such should keep the car fresh as a daisy for the long term. Enjoy the car, the Verso S is a cracking motor.
  6. Hopefully it's just a fuse although there's quite a few that do 'gauge and meters' which I'm guessing is the digital dash. Illuminations could be right. Or Instrument panel light control. Best to check those before you dismantle anything. Oh I could imagine it being difficult to replace the light under the Start button, like
  7. Just had a close look at mine. They all should light up when your lights are switched on - temp, selector and recirculate/fan speed. Might be worth investigating although I dread to think how much a garage would charge what with having to take the centre console apart. I wonder if there's a fuse for them, gonna check my manual
  8. But yeah having to replace both bearings at the same time does seem a bit odd
  9. Mine had to have the OSR bearing changed in 2010 at about 21,000 miles, car just two months shy of being two years old
  10. Hi there. Yes the heat selector lights up in the 2007 Zinc, does so in my 2008 TR. Is it lighting up in yours?
  11. I have a theory on these diesels which I feel is their biggest producer of the exhaust soot - turbo lag. Years ago I remember seeing a then-new Renault Laguna estate (on an 02 plate) accelerating away from traffic lights I was walking past. As the driver went up to 2nd gear it chucked out some black smoke. At first I felt this was a problem, turned out to be normal for diesels, we all see it when the driver is just getting on the gas, especially if they 'give it some'. As almost all diesel engines these days are turbocharged, they'll inevitably breathe out black smoke which is unburnt fuel. This is - I feel - all the soot that you see being emitted from diesel engined cars as they're trying to spool up the turbos. However they're designed to do this as they need exhaust emissions to run the turbos. I used to run a diesl car (alongside my Yaris) last year, Corsa Life ecoflex CDTi, I hardly noticed it produce much diesel smoke however I knew the car would've been emitting it. I had seen it twice under hard acceleration, although that had followed some pootling around. With that car you could feel when it needed to be revved as it was lumpy whilst cruising at 30mph in 4th. Might be because it was a Vauxhall though! A few months ago I've seen my first smokey Yaris D-4D. Guess until turbo lag is completely eliminated, all diesels will smoke. However I remember a small point I read in a car mag years ago that a company was thinking of an electric-driven turbocharger. Though that same magazine claimed Honda wanted to make a high-revving diesel . . What are your thoughts?
  12. Hi there I have the mk 2 Yaris, just had a look at the cooling system. On the mk 2 there's a drainage tap at the bottom of the radiator with a very small pipe that has a hole in it placed, so on that model it appears you can drain the coolant without having to remove the undertray, not sure if the mk 1 is the same. As for coolant itself, I'd go for Toyota's mix which is a pink fluid. I don't know for definite but I think it's a whole ready mix that goes straight into the cooling system. Watch out for air locks though if/when you carry out the work. I'm not sure about a reverse radiator flush, don't think that would be needed. Let us know how you get on
  13. No harm done there jetsetjunta, if the info is there, it's always worthwhile. Makes me feel better that my query has answered others'. And thank you to everyone here for your feedback. Hopefully in the coming months I will be able to run a Yaris 1.33 alongside my current 1.3 as I look to complete my driving instructor training, with a Yaris number one choice of wheels. My instructor mate who I'll be working with runs a Suzuki Swift which has a similar layout of many of the controls and the buttons all look similar in style and function, though I'd much prefer the Yaris.
  14. As the title & description state, I am wondering how long usually does the Stop/Start switch the engine off for? I've always wanted to drive a Yaris with the 1.33 engine (mk 2 as the mk 3 doesn't have Stop/Start) but cannot part company with my current 1.3, I love it too much. Another reason for my query; I've been in a friend's Audi A1 TDI which has Stop/Start. In that car, the system kills the engine for just one minute . . surely it should be longer? I don't know. I usually turn my engine off when I know I'm gonna be stationery for a fair while - often either side of a minute, though for short pauses, no doubt Stop/Start will step in on a 1.33. What are your thoughts peeps? And on the above Audi, the air-con was off.
  15. It definitely wasn't a wheel bearing issue my friend. Fortunately the noise has quietened down now so I am happy again. The only issue I have is the ease at which the windscreen picks up stone chips! Been tended to by the same chap from my local National Windscreens base God knows how many times now! (Good thing it's never been struck by a pheasant unlike a Mondeo that was having its 'screen replaced, totally smashed, that was. RIP birdie
  16. I think I might give the handbrake test a go though on the brake rollers at the garage, all looked ok. I'll just try and put it at the back of my mind and enjoy the car again. Thanks for your replies people
  17. I first feared it but the sound doesn't increase with speed, just gets a little louder, if you know what I mean as the main parts of the brakes don't rotate. As mentioned I previously had a wheel bearing go and this sound is different to that. The garage confirmed it is not a wheel bearing. I'm starting to see your point about the automatic adjuster alfiejts, I'll see how it goes and hopefully the noise will go down. I first believed that it was a seized part in the drum mechanism.
  18. Oh right, I didn't think it would work. I guess the thermostat must open before the 'cool' light goes out? Glad the car doesn't overheat but suprised that if the cars can run like that, why Toyota give all the cars big grilles. May have to put that to them
  19. Perfectly normal. From my experience of the Yaris 1 litres & the D-4D engines, those two take a while to warm up compared to my 1.3 VVT-i (unsure of the 1.33, supposedly that's the same. As Cyker says, better off driving than idling, though don't give it the beans on a cold engine. Madasafish I probably wouldn't recommend blanking off the lower radiator grille. The engine itself takes a while to warm up before the warmed coolant is allowed to circulate through to the radiator. All engines in cars are fitted with thermostats which stay closed, blocking off the top radiator hose until the coolant in the engine block has reached sufficient temperature. Partially blocking the radiator would affect the engine's ability to cool down when it needs to. Although the 'eco-weenie' VWs and Seats have very small radiator grilles in comparison to their standard models, these have been developed to work with smaller grilles. Suprised Toyota don't modify the radiator grilles. They may do before long . .
  20. Hi alfiejts and thank you for your response. My dad cottoned on to this automatic adjuster and said it may need to wear down a bit. It definitely is noisy, I can hear the droning rumbling sound whilst on the move. Surely won't that increase rear brake wear? The Toyota mechanics brought me into the garage to see the car for myself, both on the ramps and on the brake roller test. All seemed ok despite the rear brakes not totally free-spinning. These cars have EBD (Electronic Brake-force Distribution), supposedly this'll play around with how much braking effort goes through each drum? The garage said they did a strip & clean though with the way they run I don't think they completely stripped them down, that may have worked. Guess it is just the noise I'm concerned about, the car doesn't feel any different to drive. The car has just this week clocked 35,000 miles, though last year needed a new wheel bearing on the offside rear corner (where I feel the drum noise comes from, not sure if the two are linked). Other than that the car is perfectly sound as ever. Did either of your two Yarises make this droning sound under normal driving? I'm hoping it goes away real soon so the concerns I have vanish. Probably overreacting
  21. I started noticing this problem while driving. It is a sound I hear at any speed which sounds like I'm braking, only I get it when I'm not braking too. An annoying rumbling noise and being a perfectionist with the car, I'm not standing for it. I've had the car looked at before Christmas but they couldn't find anything wrong, suggested it could be road salt. So a wash later and it's still making a sound. Yesterday I jacked up eac rear corner to spin each wheel to see how free they were. Offside rear was catching whilst the nearside rear span as freely as was humanly possible. Problem identified. Every so often when I haven't driven the car for a day or two, I do get a rubbing from a sticking rear brake which used to free up after ha;f a mile, now I believe a part inside the drum mechansm has seized on. The garage let me take the car in to have it checked out. They said they couldn't fault it but carried out a 'strip-&-clean' and that didn't work either. I left them an email stating I wasn't satisfied and they agreed to have another look today. Took it in and I could see the mechanic spinning the rear wheels before removing them. After a while I was led into the garage to see for myself. The brake was still catching but the lads claimed it is supposed to. Yeah and make a noise too? I think not. After the car was road-tested & brought back, I was again led in and found out the brakes had been adjusted, only now when I rotated the nearside rear, I found that this was also now catching. They reckoned there was nothing more they could do except maybe bring the car in again if I was still unhappy. Drove home and the sound was now louder. Not a happy bunny, my car isn't perfect anymore and I'm now beginning to consider my options. I just want it fixed. Anyone got any ideas? Is this normal for the brakes? It's definitely worse than before so I think not. What really is the answer? What can I do? I'm considering writing to Toyota rather than pester the dealer for nothing again. Ormi, any ideas?
  22. Adam C

    Fuel Consumption

    Does the OP NEVER give the car a nice long run now and again at all? If it's never had a spell out on the open roads, I'd recommend giving the vehicle a chance to show what it can do now and again to see if it is just down to inner city driving (which I'm sure it is).
  23. Adam C

    Smoke Problem

    Hang on guys! According to the OP's description of the car it says this is an Avensis D-CAT which, unless I'm mistaken, means the car has a diesel particulate filter on the exhaust system. From what I gather on how this works, that'll almost certainly be what's causing the white smoke as it goes through a 'regeneration' cycle, where it uses a 5th fuel injector fitted directly into the exhaust system to burn off soot particles. Which, if that's the case, the white smoke is nothing to worry about. As long as coolant & oil levels are fine & there's no visible signs of leaks or coolant residue on the engine cover, the car is mechanically sound. I hope that's the case mind. Never seen this white smoke before/never caught a Toyota D-CAT performing a 'regen'.
  24. Mine came with Continental ContiPremiumContact 2s all round (as new). I've been that impressed by them that I'm keeping to these. Changed the fronts like for like. Great tyres, fantastic in the rain AND snow. My old one had Wanlis on the front & original Dunlops at the rear. Had to change the Dunlops so went like for like - the newer ones were great but let down by the Wanlis which were rubbish, especially in the rain. Changed the car before we had the worst winter weather (09 and 10) and can't remember it ever facing horrid snowy conditions. Best keep to the top brand of tyres, they're better for noise, grip and the shortest stopping distances.
  25. One thing I noticed here; no one mentioned checking tyre pressures. Surely having the tyre pressures checked regularly will make a difference? For my Yaris I make it mandatory to keep the pressures anywhere between the two figures the manual states and my fuel consumption is good. Will help on the motorways. kimbo23, was your Passat an automatic too? I thought the 2.0 Avensis would have goodish economy as I'm sure I've read that it has direct fuel injection? I'm pretty much guessing that the Passat does too