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  • Toyota Model
    Celica 1996 st

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  1. dave_celica


    If all fails, call the AA! Dave
  2. Hello, from one Dave to another. I had an aerial problem on my last car and discovered that Halfords can supply almost any aerial possible (for cars that is). Well my Celica is the 6th Generation (1996) and that’s done 165,000 miles and sounds amazing. There is not a hint of anything wrong with it what so ever, with the engine bay in pristine condition. I don’t know if you or anyone else out there can predict when it will pack in? Dave.
  3. Hi. Anyone know where you can get or if you can get a Haynes manual for the 6th gen Celica because Halfords don't sell them for this one. Ta. Dave.
  4. Hi, tried to write back to you about the side skirts but the email thing wouldnt work. I think its sent it to you as a pm. :hokus-pokus: Dave
  5. Easy business. Took me about 10 seconds per wheel. Before you fit them buy some grease and coat the locking mechanism or you’ll have to break them off again when you take the wheels off! They just push on and you use the keys provided to make sure they stay attached to your wheels. Dave.
  6. No worries, the same thing happened to me. You can just order another 2 from any Toyota garage. I needed 4 new ones and it cost me £60 so its £15 a wheel. Harsh but life's tough. Dave.
  7. Iv got the 6th generation Celica (not an import) but its the 1996 N reg 1.8st. If you still have them do you know whether they will fit? Cheers! Dave.
  8. Its either on the right or left of the engine bay in a black box or its under and to the side of the steering column. Both covers for the fuse boxes will indicate which fuse is which on the reverse side. Dave.
  9. Mate, I got it sorted in the end. Not one of the 10 Toyota Garages had a ****** clue because they no nothing about cars. I tried the ECU/EFI thing and it doesn’t make a difference. Taking out the ECU/EFI in fact has absolutely nothing to do with the alarm faults. The problem is that you need to take out the DOME fuse before undertaking any electrical operation (i.e. disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery). This wont break your alarm but it tells the alarm to shut down temporarily. Basically I was told to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and take out the DOME fuse until the back up siren goes off. This drains the battery and sets the car alarm on permanently. To get the alarm to work again you need to jump start the car with the DOME fuse back in place and then hold down the alarm button on your remote. This deactivates the lock on the alarm and your back to normal! Dave.
  10. Well you certainly sound like you know what your talking about but I don’t understand. If you say it cant talk to the ECU then how come the car is working as it normally does? Does it mean my car will suddenly break down? Surely if I stick both the resistor AND the original connector in then the computer ECU thing will be totally confused because it will be told about the actual temperature of the air and fooled into thinking the air is colder! If I were a computer id be pretty confused, lol! You say about the drag racing thing, does that mean that the resistor is actually used by other people and not just a con! Cheers for you help mate! Dave.
  11. Thanks for the reply! The mod was from ebay yes (£2.50) so was prepared to waste it. The installuniversity website wont load for some reason. It’s not my computer because everything else works. Anyway, I installed that resistor mod into the IAT sensor the other day and it actually does do the business really well. The acceleration of my Celica St is now noticeably faster, but I just hope it doesn’t do any long-term damage! When fitting the resistor though, the instructions say to bend it in place and wrap it in electrical tape, leaving it away from the air intake on its own. The picture and text instructions also clarify this. Not only is that the case but there is clearly no way you can fit the plastic connector back on because of the presence of the resistor. What do you think? Cheers! Dave.
  12. The way I've learnt is you can either get bent over for a normal induction kit, costing you £££'s or you can make use of the scientific facts. Basically I made my own kit using a universal induction cone (K&N) at £15 from Santa Pod. All you need to worry about is getting colder air into the system as colder air has more oxygen, therefore burns faster and gives better acceleration! The link at the bottom of this text is my induction kit where I’ve basically replaced the air box from my Celica st with the air cone. Then I made two holes under the car in order to lead a 4inch metal but flexible pipe (£10 from Homebase) and another plastic 3inch pipe (£5) to the air cone. They both suck up loads of cold air from under the car along with another plastic pipe attachment from the original air box to the air cone. The final and most genius part are to make an air protection box to surround the air cone. If you don’t do that then your induction kit is almost pointless because the heat from the engine bay will simply swirl around the cone and outweigh the amount of cold air to the cone. To make it I simply went to a scrap metal yard (they're everywhere) and bought a meter-squared piece of aluminium sheet metal (£6). I measured the size of my air cone and cut the sheet metal to the correct size into a box that would surround the cone with holes to feed the cold air pipes. The only hard part of this whole process is cutting through the metal (it takes a lot of pain). The end result is worth it because the outside of the box reflects the engine heat away from the cone and the inside of the box keeps the cold air present. My car is only a 1.8 but the acceleration is amazing as a result. Much better than any normal induction kit. If you can be bothered to do it, have a go. Here is the link to the picture (http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/gallery/album01/CelicaInduction?full=1) Good luck! Dave.
  13. Cool, I shall give it a go! A guy from the Toyota garage suggested disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery then removing the 'dome' fuse, reconnect the negative terminal and put the dome fuse back in again but that didn’t work. He recons the alarm is probably busted now. If I replace the ECU and EFI fuses like you said, that wont harm the management system or confuse it will it? Only I have an induction kit instead of an air box and a mod chip in the 'intake air temperature sensor' to make the ICU think its receiving colder air. Cheers boss! Dave.
  14. Cool, how do I reset the ECU fuse? Dave.
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