Bug

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About Bug

  • Rank
    Club Member

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  • MSN
    bug@hotmail.co.uk

Profile Information

  • First Name
    I
  • Gender*
    Female
  • Toyota Model
    IQ2
  • Toyota Year
    2011
  • Location
    Kent

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  1. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi Frosty Sorry, price would help wouldn’t it, useless! I am only interested in what i paid for it, £70. The steps one needs to do are broadly;
  2. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi I have been working with Dart driver on this problem with her IQ and offered the following to her however, she has currently declined. I still have my spare A/C ECU that i bought way back when Solley and I were originally working on this problem. At that time i had ordered a number of parts that were supposed to be the AC ECU Amp and i think it was 3rd or 4th item that i received was which really was the AC Amp. I have been somewhat tardy in doing anything with it since we resolved this problem so, if anyone would like it then please do contact me. I shall put it on eBay in due course but would of course rather help someone if i can given how messy it was to receive this in the first place. To be clear, it is the AC Amp that we originally used to trial the prototype fix without risking my original Amp. Once we confirmed the fix worked and my own Amp wasnt at risk i removed it and the wonderful Solley attached an enhanced version of the prototype to my amp and then we reinstalled it. This spare amp is therefore without any modifications as each "fix" will require the Volages of your flow sensor, these can be obtained by using Techstream in your car. It is not possible to 'pre-fix' the modification as if the boost makes the voltage too high or too low then the A/C Clutch will not engage, there is a very small window for the voltage to be acceptable. Using this spare amp can save you from Breakers or eBay costs of £15 to £175 and not necessarily receiving the right item. It also allows you to test without damaging your own Amp and you could pass this back on once you are finished with it. Toodlepip! Nat
  3. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi Please accept my apologies, i have been unable to access the site for some time and, well, gave up on it to be honest as my iPhone required me to set a new password every time i came to the site and the password requirements are so bonkers. Anyway, i am here at the moment, do you still need help? Thank you Natalie
  4. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi Lambous what does the onboard diagnostic report on the Control Panel? To access this you Hold Auto and Recirculate whilst initiating Ignition
  5. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi Lambous Apologies, i have a palava logging into this site everytime and have to reset the password which is nuts complex for a forum that you can read without logging in anyway. As for the A/C, how may i help? Has anyone connected a laptop to your IQ to see what errors are in the log? have you tried running a diagnostic off of the A/C control panel by depressing the buttons when activating the ignition? (full instructions are in the thread above) What code do you get on either the laptop or A/C panel? With a laptop attached, can you start the A/C via the Magnetic Clutch test? If it starts you will hear the engine rev higher and cooler air, this would be a good indication of the mechanics being ok and probably a sensor fault. If its mechanical then probably would need a new compressor, Dave fitted his own replacement as unfortunately he experienced a fault shortly after we got mine working by modifying the Amp signal. If its sensor then you may be able to clean it, i think later Dave even found somewhere that the sensor was available from (I can look in my emails/sms if necc) I may have a spare Amp with that number, i bought a replacement as part of my diagnostics. How much are you looking at? i do keep meaning to sell it but forget. I will look Friday as its in the car and a bit early at mo. I'll say which mine is (The spare one) Ta
  6. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi, OK, there will be two versions of the how we fixed my AC problem, a short version and a long version. Hopefully this will help all those other IQ owners that appear to be experiencing the same problem as I did. Background Regassed IQ continued to not engage the magnetic clutch when the AC button was depressed. The On-Board diagnostics (Hold Auto and Recirculate whilst initiating Ignition) reported Code 79. Short version Its fixed!!! OK, smidgeon longer Short version My Flow Control sensor was working within Tolerance but not within Operational Parameters, this prevented the Magnetic Clutch from engaging whenever the AC button was depressed. On the IQ the Flow Sensor is sadly not consumable or replaceable as its built into the AC compressor, these may be bought on Ebay from £350 upwards but then would require degassing, fitting and then regassing so I would imagine it would be northwards of £800 to complete. Speculation on my part. To put the Flow Control sensor back into Operational Parameters we inserted a small LM741 amp inline to the sensor, basically this increased my Standby voltage on the sensor and then once the AC button was depressed the Magnetic clutch engaged and wheeee, chilly air onc more! Intrigued? There is a long version now! Long Version After having Kwik Fit regass my car a number of times to no avail i went to a garage for their help to diagnose my AC problem. Once there I discovered Techstream as the tech was using it for diagnosing my problem and after some fiddling he was able to activate the Magnetic Clutch through Techstream. This suggested that the AC could work but something was preventing it, his guess was that it was a pressure sensor as it would not come out very cold once forced. He gave me a contact who he believed could help but unfortunately that contact never responded to me. All the other local specialists either did not work weekends or had long waiting lists so, inspired by his work with Techsteam I thought that I could give that a go! I’m no spanner monkey but im a tech-bunny so, untimidated I went about locating Techstream and sourcing a lead etc. Once I had these I had also been given a contact that I could obtain the official IQ workshop manual book from too so I contacted that person who kindly helped. That person, Tarquin, or Mr P for short, was oddly enthusiastic about helping and got quite involved in my Techstream investigations and became a great source of help, motivation and nerdiness! Initially I was having problems installing Techstream as it did not like going on a 64b Windows but we got over that (I use Techstream within a 32b Win XP VM (Virtual Machine) on my 64b Win 10 laptop, all funky and good!). Mr P and I were then able to compare readings of my faulty AC and his working AC, trying to spot patterns and compare measurements. The On-board diagnostics reported code 79, Techtream B1479, this code indicated; Flow Control Sensor Wiring loom fault AC Amplifier fault Mr P allowed me to use his IQs cabin control panel as a test - I had same result with no AC. I bought a replacement AC Amp off ebay for £14 – ****** sent me something that wasn’t an AC Amp, the case says ABS but I don’t know what it is. Seems many people have this item listed as an AC amp but is wrong! I bought a used AC Amp from a reclamation site after directing the guy to its location in the car cabin (behind the cigeratte lighter), £70 – Others are calling it an AC ECU – same result, no AC Frustrating huh?! This was suggesting that the hardest thing to fix was the most likely fault but it would be an expensive gamble. The Toyota manual advises for a diagnosis that in Techstream one should see the voltage for the Flow Control Sensor be above 0.7v (otherwise it’s Fault A) and below 5v (otherwise its Fault B) unless it remains fixed (ie, doesn’t change at all) which would be Fault C. Mine was reporting 3.65v and would remain Fixed unless I forced Magnetic Clutch (where it would then drop to a little above 2.5v – 3v. This suggested the Flow Sensor WAS reading the data. Mr P then tested his and his results were 4.1v and when AC active it would bounce around 3.5v. His displayed a similar variance range as mine although his started higher, but we were both within the Tolerance that Toyota mentioned. I was pretty vexed by now as getting obsessed with this and im no mechanic, researching and learning how this all worked was distracting me loads! I then contacted one of the original garages again and got a date for their guy to have a look. I was kinda relieved that I could pass this on to someone so I could stop thinking on this however, the garage day came and went and all he could advise me was that the pressure sensor appeared ok and that he had a code, B1479 but that he didn’t know what it was. I was back to square 1! He asked me to take it back another week when he had researched the code but I felt this was going to go nowhere further yet so I got home and thought on this as something had to be wrong and we had a lot of data. I then stumbled across a Lexus website where someone mentioned that their Flow Sensor v was low which prevented his magnetic clutch from engaging and that he boosted his to just over 4v using a LM741 amp. I read the whole article and the various reports from others matched my fault profile IF I discounted that both Mr P and my results were within Toyota norms. What if Mr Ps was woring BECAUSE he was over 4v and I was at 3.65v, a little under 4v? Again, im no electrician either, my job is networking and IT yet, with bizarre co-incidence, my fellow Nerd in crime in this endeavour was Mr P, an electronics whizz! We discussed the posts and amps, he was happy to build one and slap it into my spare AC Amp as a test, a bit like this; In the real world it looks like this; It is soldered onto the pins on the input/output from the Flow sensor loom into the AC Amp. This boosts my current voltage up to circa 4v. I popped my spare modded AC Amp it into my car Weds lunchtime (only takes a couple of mins) and started the engine before tentatively depressing the AC button and waited…clunk….the magnetic clutch engaged! Cool air came out the AC vents and the compressor was whirring away as it used to! It was not freezing, but that may be that its not my original AC Amp or perhaps the pressure is not correct as it was not regassed with a working compressor so I need to sort that out. The fault had been because my Flow Sensor whilst was within Tolerance, was presumably not hitting an operational voltage requirement (again, presumably set somewhere above 3.68v where mine wasn’t working but below 3.96v where mine now is working. So, hopefully someone with an AC Magnetic Clutch not kicking in will be able to use Techstream to identify their Flow Control Sensor Voltage and ensure that the voltage varies when Magnetic Clutch is forced on to see if it would be a candidate for this fix. I have attached 3 screens of my voltages, I hope they help. Thanks for all the help and advice, its been a great challenge to work through this which I would not have been able to doo without all your help and especially Mr P, Tarquin. Wow, what a gem he is for the forum, a very proud IQ owner! Ta Nat
  7. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Yup, had to call in the 2 most nerdiest Nerds of all Nerdom Big geniuses🤓
  8. Hi I have same problem and am looking for any info on replacing the sensor only and not the whole compressor
  9. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi Are you able to give me the hyperlink in the imagine above please? My onboard diagnostic says 79, even after i clear it so would like to know what it is. ta
  10. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi In this Pic above there is a Hyperlink provided to go to the DTC codes but it doesnt take me there (as its a graphic on the PDF. The onboard diagnostics says 79 Any advice? Ta
  11. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    This is what the A/C should be according to this URL http://ictworkshopsolutions.com/ict2014/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Complete-Refrigerant-Filling-Chart.pdf I cannot locate what the Pressure should be tho. I shall pop in to Kwik Fit shortly and see what they say, otherwise i'll take it elsewhere next weekend (the tech recommended a garage)
  12. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Hi Well, i returned to Kwik Fit and complained that the A/C wasnt working and they only regassed it Oct 2016, i asked if he could check my relays. He plugged in the A/C machine and advised that it reported only 35PSI and set it to proceed. The process removes all existing gas, pressure tests to check for leaks and then blows new oil through to lubricate the parts before blowing in the gas. As this is a programmed cycle it stopped before the regassing stage and reported it needed more oil, this meant that he started the whole process again and the second time it progressed to the end. I hope that helps
  13. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    Howdy puppies I took my IQ to a garage guy with a computer yesterday and he was able to turn the A/C on via the laptop Control Panel so it appears to demonstrate that mechanically all is ok. His suspicion is that the Gas is an incorrect pressure and so the Pressure Switch is not allowing it to activate. He did clear some errors beforehand (as we could not locate the A/C options in the Control Panel as they appeared as blank boxes so we missed them at first). It is puzzling when i saw the Kwik fit guy start the re-gas process twice (as first time it stopped as it wanted to use more oil to seal the pipes) so i can only imagine its too much pressure in there now (unless their guide books are wrong regarding the pressure required) Ta
  14. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    OK, here is a limited help on the fuses and relays - http://www.autogenius.info/toyota-iq-fuse-box/ Now, BLR, hmmm
  15. Bug

    IQ Air con system

    This is the Fuse and relays that the pic is referring to. I had seen some vids about Toyotas in general failing the Magnetic Clutch Relay (MG-CLT was the code in the video) but i could not locate any refs to that in an IQ and here it is. Would be handy to know which Relay code that was as must be one of those in the pic of the fuse box