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  • Toyota Model
    Toyota Avensis 2004 D4D

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  1. Hi all, I need to fit a tow bar tomorrow, and that needs the muffler removed to attch the bolts up through the boot. I had a look at the exhaust, and the rearmost exhaust mounts dont look to have bolts on them. The service manual says to remove the bolts, but how?! All I see is two pin type bolts going through the rubber mounts that hold the muffler...am I not looking hard enough or is there a knack to getting them out? Thanks, Ken
  2. The noise sounds like a metal on metal grating, like changing gears without the clutch fully depressed but not as loud or violent! The compressor is obviously still working, as the low pressure pipes are frosting over. Once the car revs hit 3000 it starts to grate, and once i back off the revs it goes away. Once the A/Cis sitched off there is NO noise, as the compresor is switched off. Its like the gas is there, being pressurised, but not circulating across the condensor to make the air cold. The mechanic who did the aircon serviec seems pretty competent. He seems to be the garages main mechanic and he spent almost two hours doing everything. Stil, he may have made a mistake!
  3. He seemed pretty sure it was the compressor! I dont think there is any good-will in my local toyota, they even chrged me 10 euro for gas that wasnt included in the aircon service as the system was empty... cash is tight at the moment so I can't afford to get a replacement compressor pump. I was hoping there was a tiny chance it could be something else!
  4. Hi all, I am driving a 2.0L D4D avensis, ftv-1cd engine. My aircon was pretty weak for the last few months, just blowing out slightly cooler air. It stopped working completely (I imagine the refrigerant level dropped low enough for the pressure switch to cut the compressor.) I brought the car to toyota yesterday, and they did an aircon service. No leaks were detected, but the system was totally empty and took the whole 440g of freon. The Air-con was working perfectly and was ice cold on the way home. This morning was a different story. The car started making grating noises passing 3000RPM. I turned off the A/C and the noise stopped. I got home and had a good look under the bonnet. The "low pressure" lines are frosting over as you would expect, but there is no cold air from the vents. The drive belt is properly attached and tight. I rang toyota, and he said it is definatly a faulty compressor, and quoted a cost of 1200 euro for replacement. I am a bit hesitant to believe them that it is the compressor when it was working so well yesterday. Does anybody have any other ideas that i can check out? I am not going to pay that price for a new compresor on an 8yr old car, I will just get the by-pass belt if needs be. I was thinking maybe there was too much oil in the system which took a few hours to make its way back to the compressor and block it up. Toyota said that they did change the oil in the compressor too. I hope someone can help! Ken.
  5. Hey thanks for the reply!! Im not sure I would be able to drop the front struts, dont think id know how! What is the easiest way to check the bearings...is it just a matter of spinning the wheel by hand and listening for a grinding? Thanks, Ken
  6. Hi All, I have a 2004 Avensis D4D, With the English road pack. For as long as I can remember, if you take your hands off the steering wheel even for a second, the car starts to drift left almost instantly. This has gotten worse lately, and now if I take the pressure off the steering wheel the car wil hit the hard shoulder line in about 2 seconds. I have checked everything that I can think of... Brake pads and discs: All ok, bled brakes, even wear, shiny disks Whes and Tyres: Tracking done, No uneven wear, all tires the same size Suspension: No excessive bounce, no leaks, wear,visible damage Tie rods and CV joints: All tie rods and the rubber bits are perfect, no play whatsoever in them, or the wishbone ect Im at a bit of a loss now to be honest. The only minor issue I have with the car is a very slight creak when I go over a speedbump slowly. This ONLY happens on speed bumps, comes from the left hand side somewhere. I had a look in the service manual, and it seems fairly vague when it comes to the steering system. I have noticed that the power steering "self centre" system seems more aggressive when it is returning from turning right. If I have turned left (the problem side) it seems very sluggish to return to dead centre, and I usually have to hold the wheel at 5 degrees right to get the car to go straight. Is there any way to set the power steering centre point manually? If there is, i'm sure it could solve this really annoying problem! Thanks, Ken
  7. Thanks again for all the replies! I ended up buying the Gunson Eazibleed on Ebay yesterday, just for an easy life. I can imagine that giving albeit simple instructions to the wife could well end with "picture-no-sound" for at least a day, maybe two! Can anyone confirm that one of the attachments will fit the avensis resevoir screw top? (2004 d4d ftv-1cd). It would be a pain in the backside if I have to go drilling the cap to make it fit! Also, does anyone know the correct sequence for bleeding in this car? hmm, cant remember what side is nearside and what side is offside! Thanks, Ken
  8. THanks for the replies! I think i'm going to do it myself, more for the fun of doing it myself than anything else. Mistermena, do you have to bleed the master cylinder during the process? The service manual mentions that you have to do it after draining the fluid, but I hope that doesn't apply to replacing and bleeding fluid. Ken
  9. Hi there, I need to change the brake fluid on my ftv-1cd 2.0 D4D as it has not been done in years. I had a look through the service manual, but it is a bit vague. Anybody have any tips on how to do it? Also, How do I get out that annoying little strainer in the brake fluid resevoir? I can't suck out any fluid while it is in there, and I don't want to break it pulling it out! Once I get it out, is it just a matter of sucking out the fluid to above the outlet, adding more, then bleeding the brakes from furthest to closest? Do I need to have the car running or stopped? Thanks in advance, Ken
  10. It does sound like an Aircon problem alright, maybe a compressor clutc problem. Mine was rattling on idle a bit, had to have the compressor reconditioned. Something to do with the idle bearings in the compressor. Try disconnecting the Power Steering and Aircon aux belt, if the nosie stops, its probably the aircon. If it is the aircon compressor, I know you can remove the aux belt that is in there, and put on one meant for a car without aircon, thus bypassing the aircon compressor totally. The aircon wont work, but its cheaper than a compressor replacement!
  11. You will pull a hell of a current with the ingnition on and no engine running. I was advised on a previous post to take the cover off around the ignition switch (3 srews) and unplug the two pin plug from the ignition switch for the alarm. I have never tried it yet. Hi there, I did the white plug removal, it worked well. Remove the two screws from the steering wheel mount, then the one underneath. You might have to remove some of the other plugs to get at the small white one (WIth two wires). Unplug the white one, and plug all the others back in. Easy! Ken
  12. steview, I have the same year and model avensis. The EGR valve is just beside that green "plug", and slightly under that black exhaust type box. It has a round cylinder on top, held on with two tiny bolts. The Bolts for the valve itself are below the little cylinder, one on either side, and one below. You will know it's the right one if you see two coolant hoses coming out, one on each side. Be careful removing these, as they have coolant in them!! Best of luck, Ken.
  13. I was just wondering, does anybody here have a list of the air con fault codes? It would be a handy one to have! Thanks, Ken
  14. Is it not the GPS sensor? Thats what the D4D Avensis Manual says anyway! Ken
  15. Thanks for that caveman!! Do you think removing the coolant hoses would drain all of the coolant, or just whatever is in the egr and the hoses? I'd hope to not have to do a full coolant change as the stuff in there is the long life coolant, changed only a few weeks ago! Ken.
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