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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by Welshcakes

  1. Just a quick note to say, thanks to a quick trawl of the web, I have found answer and have unlocked immobiliser. If anyone is ever in the same position (though it takes a special sort of stoopid to do what I did), for a 1.8 Avensis '02, the way to unlock is as follows: Get in and close all doors; Within 15 seconds , insert key and turn on and off 4 times - don't try and turn over, just to the 'ON' position and back; Switch on a 5th time and open and close driver door ... at this point my radio came on and my immobiliser had disarmed. If you need to go further, I have read that you would then continue with the following steps; Within 20 seconds on opening and closing the driver door as above, continue to open and close it up to five more times and then remove the key; Within 10 seconds, insert and switch to 'ON' and leave in place for at least 60 seconds. Remove key. End. Thanks for the reads anyway. Please not this only works when you are using the Master Key.
  2. Okay, now I put my hands up to being a thicko for doing this but ... my Avensis Master key was low on battery so I took apart without problem to change battery. Didn't have the right battery in the house so thought I would pop down to local shop and purchase. With key dismantled (yes, many of you know what's coming) I thought I could just use the 'key' part to start car and purchase said battery. It wouldn't start and dawned on me that it's because I didn't have fob 'gubbins' so walked to shop, got battery, installed and reassembled. Works a treat. Went to use car now and thought the fob unlocks perfectly, engine still won't turn over and hence it would appear that eve though I have my Master Key without any damage (I know it wasn't damaged as the battery replacement is isolated and a doddle), the immobiliser will not recognise the Master code and hence will not deactivate immobiliser. I am praying I'm not advised that I have made a seriously expensive mistake and that there is a cheap way round this that doesn't involve buying anything from a Toyota dealer. Thanks in anticipation that I shall not be weeping at your expert advice!
  3. Just my two penneth here but our engine management light came on within half an hour of our car passing its MOT with our mechanic of twenty years who we know is very thorough and wouldn't let anything slip by unnoted. The car runs perfectly and I have read that the light can come on for the smallest of things, often not requiring attenmtion/replacement. I'm not suggesting anyone should ignore the light (especially when a diagnostic has identified a problem) however I also think it's useful for alleviating stress to bear in mind that the Death Light might not necessarily mean a lighter wallet.
  4. I think I may go 'Blue Peter' and create a sponge bung around the nut and wring it out every journey! How I wish I believed in manmade global warming, I'd be out revving it up every morning. Ah well, I shall pop a bit of bicarb of soda onto the carpet and do my best to prevent it getting sodden. After hearing the unsuccessful lengths so many have gone to, I don't think I'll depress myself by dismantling the back half of the car so thanks for saving me the trouble and irritation of a long pointless exercise.
  5. Good Afternoon I am now the proud owner of an Avensis, allbeit a second hand vehicle. Bought off a friend, the 2002 1.8 GS had been parked up on his hardstanding for 14 months so apart from having to supercharge the battery and spend £95.00 on it, I was over the moon that it passed the MOT and even the SATNAV works - this is despite discovering that the tyre well was full of water and the carpets upon which the CD drive is sat, were sodden. Now I have found where the dripping is entering the boot cavity - it's dripping in through the bumper cavity, through the nut hole and along the nut which attaches the bumper to the main frame. For the life of me I cannot work out how, gravity being what it is, this is happening. The boot seal appears to be in good order and there's no visible rusting, paint chipping or unalignment with the bumper or the rear lights housing. Has anyone heard of this being a problem or even simply come across the odd case of it? A mechanic suggested I just apply sealant to the nut cavity but this wouldn't solve problems of water entering the hollow bodywork and could possibly cause bigger problems through a build up. Any suggestions would be warmly appreciated as this is literally doing my nut in! Cheers Welshcakes
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