geezbeez

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geezbeez last won the day on February 18 2011

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About geezbeez

  • Rank
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  • Toyota Model
    Aygo Platinum
  • Location
    Warwickshire
  1. Don't know what people think about these, Aygo is not as bad as most cars bad but changing head units can be a problm with radios integrated into dash, and sat nav, steering wheel controls, in dash lcd displays sometimes rear parking sensors etc.. http://www.avantalk.com/products02.php?id=58 should be possible to leave Aygo head unit on the front dash speakers for satnav and FM radio use an under seat sub, front and rear speakers with amps, have everything hidden and just do everything thru bluetooth.
  2. There's a bike rack kit for the aygo, I have one. Its not sold through the UK dealers , think its produced primerily for dutch owners, I bought mine through Towequipe in Nuneaton but you may be able to find it else where. To use this rack you connect a couple of small fixings just under the bumper, no drilling, bolts prvided. Once these fixings are there the rack can be put on and off easily. Really you should use a light board with the rack, the rack comes with a plug you can wire in to lights for a light board but as I only ever put one bike on and that does not obscure lights hardly at all and dont carry it far I never bothered with a light board and plug. If you just typed "aygo bike rack" into google, then click images thers a picture of a yellow 107 appears with the rack on. Really you people, go to Halfords.....? Its best just for one bike, although can get 2 on maybe even 3. As I say I just have 1 bike.
  3. You would have to try but probably not. Your problem was with the seat base lateral support wasn't it? Have you thought about removing the seat cover from the seat squab and reformatting it with a little more support at the edges then put seat cover back. just a little more padding added to the sides may make a big difference. Glue, stitch to existing padding. Depends though if you are big enough that you sit over the edges of the seat it wont help you. I have the alcantara seats which are same seat but recovered. They are a little better and Im sure the seat cover would remove easily. On the standard seat this may not be possible?
  4. If buying new/almost new then Yaris and IQ both also woth concidering, build and quality are better than Aygo if price similar. All cars have thier faults. Mini's should be better than most but premium prices on everything mean when things go wrong the cost is double.
  5. They are based in Walsall. I know that people have used them for Punto exhausts, you can have a look through Fiat Punto forum, Im sure a girl had one fitted and was most pleased. They can make exhausts up to what you require so if you fancy a different tail pipe they can do all that, let you pick and choose, and also decide how noisy you want with different boxes. If you need an exhaust, and can take the trip to Walsall then why not? If theres milage in your current exhaust and your not near to Walsall so want mail order then dont bother. You can fit yourself but exhausts arent always a perfect fit (all exhausts that is , not MIJ specific comment, I havent seen a MIJ exhaust) - so it can be real hard to get an exhaust perfect without a car lift. On a negative, MIJ like most places arent averse to selling total crap, they have one of these leaf blower motor kits on thier site. Total Guff
  6. Its difficult to see what to lubricate except the cables in there guides, which is next to impossible. using the wrong lubricant may make it worse!
  7. a month or so back I took one of mine apart to inspect as neither adjusted particularly well. I seem to remember that there are 3 cables 120 derees apart which connect the back of the adjuster with the back of the mirror. So as such theres no distinction between vertical and horizontal adjustment. If not adjusted for a while mirrors can stick/be a little awkward to adjust. The best way to keep them functioning would apear to be moving them about a bit once or twice a month with one hand on the adjuster and one on the mirror to assist if needed. This cable system is not the best but its a method thats been used on various cars for as long as Ive known adjustable mirrors, 30 years or so...
  8. After having this problem, problem got a lot worse and clutch was replaced under waranty a week or go. Second gear is still less than perferct to get into though at anything other than walking pace or a stand still. Still goes in with a blib of the throttle and a firm shove, but has never slipped in. I would have thought all 3 parts in you picture would have been replaced? Thats what a new clutch is isn't it. They would not have just replaced the friction plate would they, would they???? On a side point. When got the Aygo there was no free play, slack in the pedal before the clutch was moved by the pedal. I backed off the screw on the end of the cable (where cable connects to clutch actuator) a couple of turns to give about 5mm movement on the pedal before it moved the clutch in case the car had been running on anything other than a fully locked clutch. After warantee work, my clutch is much lower and I have about 40mm movement on the pedal before the clutch in moved. This is exactly the same as the 10 plate Aygo I borrowed for the day the work was done which also had a lot of free movement (again about 40mm) before the clutch pedel actuated the clutch. When I talk about 5mm/40mm movement, when you press the clutch it fairly easy to tell, how far does the pedal move before theres any resistance other than the spring on the pedal. Im guessing 40mm is what toyota set it to but this does seem a lot
  9. Thanks for the pic, so when these snap a new clutch must be fitted because the clutch assembly is broken. PS, Comments about Daihatsu. I read Daihatsu will not import any more cars to the UK and will be out of europe completely within 2 years. Bit of a shame for those small dealerships, no new cars to sell.
  10. It would be really nice to see a broken clutch with this problem. Just had mine fixed. By strap do you mean one of what I would call fingers, the parts of the clutch which are pressed in to release the clutch? Nice posting by mbellinger. Concidered buying Daihatsu Charade before buying the Aygo. It's a shame that the relationship between Toyota and Daihatsu does not seem the same in the UK as that between Volkswagen and Skoda. Maybe its because Daihatsu are only majority owned by Toyota where I understand Skoda are wholely owned subsiduary of Volkswagen. Or maybe its because most Toyota dealerships are owned by large retail concerns and Daihatsu almost all small independents? BUT Daihatsu products which rival Toyota just dont get imported to the UK, or when Toyota move into a segment Daihatsu move out, or when a Toyota product is not up to scratch its rebadged as a Daihatsu. Why is this and Why dont we have the latest Daihatsu Mira or Mira Gino in the UK?
  11. Im not trying to slate Balance motorsport. I expected to comments something along the lines of "I bought one of these and can I do believe the claims because I got it fitted and it really is better because....." and maybe "I fitted a different exhaust and its (also good/no good at all)" If you look on my107 blogspot on the dyno used "a standard 107 appeared to make 75.8BHP @ 5974rpm, improving to 79.4BHP @ 5946RPM, with a K&N and backbox change so almost the same figures with a different airfilter and back box. Are these dynos overreading or does the 1 litre unit generally make a bit more than the 68 claimed in basic tune? That might be something to discuss? When starting this thread: I didnt expect one person to take opposition to my posting along the lines of questioning why I should ask and why I should not take website dyno results as fact. Initialy making out that the exhaust was something it was not, and then back tracking, whilst constantly questioning me, possibly wishing to debunk me as an ill-informed idiot. Not discussing the product and finally sugesting I take my discussion off the forum. On a positive note: AVO coilover kit. I do quite a lot of research before I buy stuff and I think "Number1Norton" comments about the FK dampers were helpful and I can contact AVO about the coilover kit if I decide I might want to buy it. I asked skeptically why 0-30mm drop front and 25mm rear: What I believe the correct reason for having 5mm more drop front than rear is: The rears are non adjustable so set at 25mm. With alowance for 5mm more drop front then the front can initially be set at 25mm as the back, then you can then measure the weight on both front wheels and adjust acordingly for even corner weight. If the rears were set at 30mm and front 0-30mm when you adjusted for corner weight at the front you would always end up with the car slightly lower at the rear. I did not post sugesting this, I thought it was the right answer and I thought someone else might say something similar unprompted.
  12. Flywheel figures should be flywheel figures yes. But unless you take the engine out and use a flywheel dynamometer they are not. Most rolling road dynos show 2 figures BHP as measures through the drive train and an estimate of power at the flywheel which is based on the figure measured through the drivetrain. Now its how that flywheel estimate is mesasured which I do not understand. (I dont think anyone else understands either). So you do a dyno run on a car and it measures 60bhp through the drive train its entirely possible it will show 70bhp as a flywheel estimate. If you measure bhp of a car in all 4 gears you should get 4 diferent drive train figures this is what you should expect as the mechanical loss in power will vary from gear to gear. On an older rear wheel car where 4th gear is almost always 1:1 ratio there would be least mechanical loss in 4th gear so the dyno would show most drivetrain bhp in 4th gear. You would probably dyno such a car in 4th gear to get a best guess at flywheel bhp. Even changing the tyres and wheels would effect the reading that a rolling road dyno would give for the same car, it would also effect the flywheel estimate (by even more as this is a higher figure). Of course the flywheel power would not have changed. The diference between drivetrain bhp and flywheel bhp can be accounted for by gearbox, final drive, CV joints wheel bearings etc and tyre losses. Surprisingly tyre loss can be the largest factor. The Aygo is rated at 68bhp, so if you dyno a standard car and the flywheel estimate is 72bhp you can reasonably assume the flywheel estimate is more likely wrong than right. If you asked someone to dyno your car and they only gave you a flywheel estimate then that would not be much use to you. You would want to see the drivetrain bhp as well and would need to know exactly what gear the car was dynod in. You would also have checked your tyre pressures carefully before the dyno run. Next time car dyno'd you would ensure tyre pressures were the same and go back to same place and have dyno'd in exactly same way. What I doubt about balance motorsport claim is that 6bhp can be gained by only a cat back exhaust. I think its very hard to get any bhp improvement in exhaust system without changing for a tuned manifold and sports cat or cat removal. Something like Kaz pictures which I believe are NOT the item from Balance Motorsport claimed to provide an extra 6bhp. Whilst I would believe an extra 10bhp with a performance manifold like Kaz has I dont believe you would get more than 1 or possibly 2 bhp increase from a cat back system. Figures to small to measure accurately with a drivetrain dyno.
  13. I dont see any sports cat http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/products.asp?recnumber=107708 Flywheel figures are flywheel figures they are measured at the flywheel. You can take measurements through the drive train and has it a guess what the flywheel figure might be. The change in figures is whats important when you are using a dyno but me thinks how the figures are produced is whats important when your reading them of a web page. FK Coilovers: Yes it would appear there are reasons to be skeptical about them.
  14. Is that C1 owners club or just arbitrary C1 owners? Dyno shows base 72 hp which seems very good for a C1/Aygo thought stock was 68? Quote: Original car made 72.9 HP flywheel corrected, with Exhaust HP was up 5.9HP to 78.8HP What does flywheel corrected mean?, surely its a chassis dyno reading or a flywheel dyno reading. I thought chassis Dyno readings could vary by 6bhp just by doing the test in different gears. Theres another site City Bug Store, they sell Remus exhausts and rocspeed disks? Is it not just what one suppliers gets a good deal on against another?
  15. I'm not entirely convinced by some of the claims made by Balance Motorsport. Exhaust. Theres the standard exhaust, the theres the TTE sport exhaust which makes no claim for extra HP and then theres the exhaust sold by Balance motorsport which claims to uniquely gain additional 6hp? Coil overs. There are expensive Coil overs from KW and FK 0-30mm drop which are no doubt good but expensive. Then theres Balance Motorsport selling AVO coil overs with 30mm drop front and 25mm drop rear? Why the different drop front and rear? Look on AVO site and I cant see coilovers for Aygo C1 at all? Is this just a coilover kit for a different car which just happens to fit? On a positive side the Bilstein/APEX combo set which Balance Motorsport sell. They dont make any super claims for this and sell it for what it is. A set of uprated dampers and a set of uprated springs. Not going to be as good as a proper coilover set but affordable and should make an improvement on the stock items. Comments????