kithmo

Maybe it's something to do with the earth's magnetic field ?

Just a thought, if you just pumped one tyre up, there may be too big a difference in pressures between tyres to reset the TPMS.

Now I see, in that case a block heater may be a good idea just for the saving on fuel.

Yes, i forgot to mention the heater, In my experience the climate and demister had to be off altogether. I'm not convinced that the money saved improving the mpg would compare to the electricity used to warm the block though, not to mention the hassle of plugging it in and then not forgetting to unplug it before driving off.

If you press the EV button within 5 seconds of the Ready light coming on you can force EV, even with a cold engine, as long as there are 3 or more bars on the HV indicator, it will kick out at 20 mph though. Not sure why you would want to spend time and money installing a block heater just to get (at most) 1.5 km of EV travel ?

I have the Ctek leads with the little two pin plug permanently attached to the battery and just plug the charger in to recondition the battery in situ every 4-6 weeks (I only do 3k miles a year). As long as the car is switched off there should be no problem. I also bought SWMBO another lead to attach to her 2006 Gen 2 battery and usually charge hers in situ as well, the little lead I leave sticking out behind the trim so I don't have to remove anything. Not sure if charging it at the jump point would affect the Ctek's performance due to the longer lead to the battery ?

Hi Bob, the 3 selections are: 1 ) Motorcycle (a motorcycle icon) 2) Lead acid, Gel and some (?) AGM (a car icon) 3) Cold weather and high power AGM (a snowflake icon) I guess the 3rd one is the different charging profile (higher rate ?).

I guess my CTek intelligent charger can detect this then.

The original battery is Lead acid, just make sure the vent tube is fitted to take away any fumes.

Same settings on my Ctek charger for AGM and lead acid. As Aaron says above, same basic technology.

For real world fuel consumption see Fuelly.com

Be aware, they can wear out though. the metallic cloth inside the bag may get a bit worn if you're throwing your keys in there a lot, it's worth checking if they're still working every now and then. In that respect an Altoids tin may be more hard wearing. You also have to make sure the pouch is closed properly so the signal can't leak out. You could turn off your spare key if you don't want to buy two bags.

The ones I've got have a sewn in tag on them saying, "Defender"

They're not dodgy if you use them correctly and check if it's working. The owner of the Range rover probably had their spare keys somewhere else in the house and not in a pouch. The pouches have two pockets, one for the keys or phone or whatever you want to block and another one that is not protected. If you put the keys in the wrong pocket then they are not blocked. The other thing is. as I said above, some owners forget about their spare key and don't protect it. It's easy enough to check if the pouch is working, put your keys in and go to the car and see if you can open it, doh, it's not rocket science, although it might be beyond the intelligence of Range Rover Evoque posers owners 🙄 I have two cheap pouches, bought off Ebay £6 each, one for my spare key and one for my every day key, both work fine. I can't open the car when standing right next to the door, with the key in the pouch and I can't start the car if sat inside with the key in pouch, even holding the pouch up near the start button.

I've turned off my spare key and I just pop the daily use key in a faraday pouch when I get home.