Davax

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About Davax

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    New Member

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  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris
  1. Hi to all. I have a problem with my Yaris CDX 1999 model 1lt. When I drive at very low speed (dead slow) and turn the steering slightly I hear a clicking sound. It is coming from the left side of the steering rack and pinion, where the steering bellow is. I don't know if it is coming from the steering gear or the anti roll bar( there is the anti-roll bar bush right behind the steering bellow). The anti-roll bush doesn't seems to be worn off. When I drive in the morning this sound is not heard. It seems that when the engine warms up that it is heard. The steering is fine and there is no play in the steering. Does anyone have any idea what it might be? Do the anti-roll bar bushes need replacement or maybe I should remove the steering gear bellow and add grease to the gear? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Davax

    Problem With Key

    If you have the Master Key then it shouldn't be a problem to reprogram the key. You can check if the key needs programming is my checking the immobilizer light. The red light which turns on as soon as the ignition key is removed. If when you place the key in the ignition, this light turns off then you do not need to reprogram it. If on the other hand it remains flickering then you have to reprogram it. It is quite easy to do it. I just did mine a month ago.
  3. Davax

    Problem With Key

    SOUNDS LIKE YOU'VE REMOVED THE TRANSPONER CHIP PART OF THE KEY , THE REMOTE LOCKING AND IMOBILIZER ARE SEPERATE TO SOME DEGREE AND IT DOESNT MATTER HOW LONG YOU LEAVE THE BATTERY OUT WITH THE IMOBILZER ONLY THE CENTRAL LOCKING WILL GO OUT OF SINK SWAP EVERY THINGBACK THE CAR SHOULD STILL START HOPE IVE HELPED
  4. Yes the sensors on your exhaust pipe are both Oxygen sensors. One is fitted prior to the Catalytic Convertor and the other after it. First you should check the wiring contacts. Both should have a wire coming out of the sensors and a connector at the end of these wires. Check if any of the wires are broken and if connectors need cleaning. Then remove the battery terminal and connect it again to clear the code. See if the Mil lights stays on again. If it does stay on then you have to remove the O2 sensors and check them out. If they are corroded or look damaged then you have to replace them. If they look ok then you may try and clean them. Fill a Jar with some gasoline and put the sensors in it. There should be enough gasoline to submerge the lower O2 filter. Leave it overnight and clean it with paper towels in the morning. Reinstall them and again disconnect battery and reconnect and check if the MIl stays on again. If it stays on then you have no alternative but to replace these sensors. The problem is you wouldn't know which one of the sensors is actually faulty unless you use a code reader / scanner. But it would be a wise idea to replace them both since both of them have taken the same amount of torture in the exhaust pipe. Good luck
  5. Thanks to all who replied to my query. Just to let you know my Yaris clocked 91K and still runs very good. Just passed its MOT (which here we call VRT). Anyway I was thinking of cleaning the Idling Control valve without removing it from the trottle body. Just remove the trottle body and spray alot of Carburator Cleaner inside the 2 holes there are in its side (where there is the idling control valve). Do you think it will be cleaned or is there a chance of ruining the idling control valve? Cheers
  6. Are not two answers enough for you..............How many ways do you want?............It is not Microsoft!! :D Yes there is another alternative....Take it to your Toyota Agent!!
  7. Thanks Kcs for your reply. Then it seems I'm not the only one with this problem. Do you know what the idling speed should be for this car? Its a 1SZ-FE 1.0lt engine. I think I will remove the idle control valve just the same and clean it. Do you think that its gasket can be reused? Cheers Davax
  8. You either use a code reader / scanner which I previously mentioned. It has an erase trouble code function or you can remove one of the battery terminals. Leave it disconnected for about 10 minutes and refit the terminal.
  9. If you disconnect the battery to reset the ECU and the fault remains the lamp will surely light up again. So you might as well do it. Should the engine lamp light up again be sure to check it out as soon as possible.
  10. Search around like Ebay, Amazon, etc. You should find it. Memoscan has a newer model. I think it's the U585 with some extra functions. But you can buy other scanners like Actron which are quite popular. Since your car is European make sure it is EOBD complient not just OBD2(E stands for European). Contact the suppliers and give them your car details. Sure they will help. I point to note: Recent models come with a USB cable for updating firmware. Mine does not have this. It has a serial port which are not fitted in today's computers. So check that it has a USB cable. Regards
  11. My Yaris 1999 model 1.0 which I am presently restoring has an idling speed of approx. 550rpm at normal running temperature. No accessory being turned on. When cold idling speed is higher until it reaches it normal running temperature. The thing which is bothering me is that with this slow idling when starting to move from rest on 1st gear and accelerator pressed the engine does not respond immediately. When the a/c is on or the power steering is turned fully the idling speed is increased, the engine does respond immediately. Engine oil and oil filter, air filter, and spark plugs have beeen changed. I also added injector cleaner in the fuel tank. I cleaned the trottle body with a bit of carburator cleaner (I did not remove the trottle body from engine). Can anyone tell me if I can remove the idling control valve and clean it with carburator cleaner? Or maybe someone has an idea what I should do. What should the idling speed be for this vehicle (1SZ-FE)? Here are the readings from my code reader scanner. LIVE DATA Coolant (deg F) 196 ST FTRM1 (%) ranging from -1.5 to 3.9 LT FTRM1(%) -5.4 Engine (rpm) 550 Veh speed (mph) 0 Ign Adv (Deg) ranging from 3.0 to 5.5 IAT (deg F) 126 MAF (lb/min) 0.140 ABSLT TPS (%) 10.1 O2S11 ranging from 0.075 to 0.815V 0.07 to 2.3% O2S12 ranging from 0.710 to 0.715V N/A % OB2 STAT EOBD I/M STATUS MIL status off Misfire Monitor OK Fuel System Monitor OK Comp. Component OK Datalyst Monitor OK HTD Catalyst n/a Evap System Mon n/a Sec Air System n/a A/C refrig Mon n/a Oxygen sensor Monitor OK Oxygen sensor HTR OK EGR system n/a Thanks to all. Davax
  12. Hi to all. Just a short note about myself. I am a motor vehicle enthusiast and love restoring motor vehicles. I previously owned a Toyota Corolla XL coupe and also a Toyota Liteace. Now I purchased a Yaris which I am presently restoring. Found this site very interesting and of great help.
  13. To find out why the malfunction indicator lamp when on, you have to use a code reader scanner. You attach this scanner to the 16 pin socket on the driver's side under the dash. A code is shown on the scanner which indicates which sensor is malfunctioning. You can easily buy one of these code reader scanners. They are not expensive. I bought one from Memoscan, U581 model and it works great on my Yaris. This scanner also includes a cd to describe the code fault. Otherwise you have to take it to the Toyota agent or an equiped garage. But obviously it would cost you. If you need further help let me know.
  14. Hi to all at Toyotaownersclub. I am new at this site and found it very interesting. I presently own a Yaris 1999 CDX model which I am overhauling. Although I don't have the MIL engine light on I would like to use my hand held scanner to read the live data, etc. and compare them with the values given by the manufacturer. The problem is I don't have these manufacturer's data values. I do have the Haynes repair manual but it doesn't seem to include them. Can anyone provide me with these PCM data values or guide me from where I can obtain them? Thanks to all.