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oldcodger last won the day on May 21

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About oldcodger

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    Corolla 1.6
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  1. Just to disgress a little, notice you also have an Auris in your household. Have been thinking of getting a late model Auris, wondered how you feel about them compared to the Corolla, much the same or chalk and cheese ? Are they petrol or diesel ?
  2. Hi @Corolla2004, Good info there, but a couple of points. Feel sure the hose gaskets are there, just that they can crush so tightly onto the caliper face or the hose union that you think its part of them, Doubt the joint would seal without the washer. The slide bolts are a reguar trouble spot, but thats only due to years of maintenance neglect. Once they have been cleaned or replaced, and lubricated with red or silicone grease they are fine, providing you do a yearly service check on them, as you should be doing for pad and disc wear.
  3. Looks like the diodes are wired in parallel, so probably the 8 one will handle a higher current from a more powerful model. Worth asking your supplier or Denso uk if they are compatible. Get it wrong and you could blow your alternator, battery and more, even start a fire !
  4. Hi, Yes, any decent brand spanner should be fine. Think my flexibles came with new washers, but best to check with wherever you order from, as different suppliers may not, got mine from Brakes International. Before you do any removal, best to check the condition of your metal brake pipes , partic on the rears. Its the last 30mm or so where the pipe meets the nut, it does not have any sleeving protecting it, just paint, so check if its got any bad rust there. A mot check point . If its just light surface rust then you may be able to clean it up and seal, otherwise some new brake pipe needed, so more a garage job ? Probalby worth getting a quote from a garage for replacing the flexibles at it might not be any dearer than having to buy all the stuff needed to do it yourself ?
  5. Hi, We know 4 side jacking 'pinch' points for changing a wheel, but when raising the car from the front central or rear central trolley jacking points, where is the proper position to place the Axle Stands ? Nothing in the Toyota User booklet or the Haynes manual. Some suggest using the standard pinch points for the Axle Stands but others say no, go inboard 250mm and use the raised ridges that run the length of the side skirts?.
  6. Hi, Been there , done that !! 1, Yes replace all 4 flexible hoses, they are equally old and prone to failure, a keen mot check point, standard rubber ones are not that dear. 2. a .Brake Bleeding is quiet easy if you use one of the many one man bleeding systems. Have used the Gunson one for many years and never had a problem. Usually find you need at least 1 ltr of fuild to do a full bleed. b. Undoing those rear hose joints can be very difficult as they get a lot of exposure. Its actually the nut on the rigid brake pipe that screws into the cliip secured flexible hose end that has to be undone so you need to be careful you do not damage the metal pipe. You need a proper brake pipe nut spanner, (quiet cheap) if that fails/ rounds off, then a good pair of mole wrenches as a last resort. c. If doing it yourself, apply penetating fluid to the nuts several times over a day or so. Yes, using a garage might be better as if they have trouble they should have brake line repair tools etc. Equally its not such a big diy job if you are confident about working on the brakes, and if you do find a nut that will not budge then thats the time to stop and go to the local garage. .
  7. If you mean the luggage compartment of the Saloon model, rather than the Hatchback, this might help you align things ?
  8. Hi, Do not know if your model is the same ? but the later ones the filter is part of the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank as shown in the pic below for a 2004 model
  9. Hi, If you mean you threw the batteries away, afraid I cannot help, but if they are still there the battery type should be stamped or printed on the face of the battery, something like CR1616 is commonly used in Toyota fobs, but not sure about your 1999 one ? Once you open the fob, look on the inside of the casings, it might also have the battery type printed on it as well as the orientation,
  10. Several applications of a penetrating spray and the use of a nut remover, like this set, but do check that it will suit the size of your nut and there is the space to attach it to the rounded nut. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bolt-nut-remover-set-6-pcs/6083D?tc=BB3&ds_kid=92700048793290430&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoP385cKN6gIVSbTtCh1hVwulEAQYAiABEgIKY_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds If that fails you will have to cut them off with an angle grinder or hacksaw, assuming you can get behind it to fit new bolts ?
  11. Hi, Can you clarify. if locking with the remote , does it sound the alarm straight away or some hours later ? Equally if just locking the door with the key, does it ever cause the alarm ? Not familar with your cars alarm circuitry, but would assume the boot, bonnet and door switches are just simple switches that are closed/shorted when the bonnet/doors are closed. If one is going faulty intermittently, then the simplest way is to disconnect one sensor at a time, and on the disconnected plug and cable, secuely fit some form of wire across the plugs two pins or sockets. The use the car as normal and see if the fault returns, if it does reconnect that sensor and try the next.
  12. Hi, On our models, the slide bolts are two different types, one is a solid pin, the other also solid but with a rubber fitted on its end. Just wonder if that device is some ealier form of rubber /bolt assembly ? If it is a rubber cap, rather than pulling it, try using a thin blade around its edge and see if it can be eased out to reveal whats in there. EDIT Ah, missed you last post , though still think if might be a rubber or oil filled device ?
  13. Hi, Looks like there is an electrical spade connector coming off it as well, which suggest it some kind of device, but no idea what with just one connector ?? Either way think you have to be very careful its not damaged as it might be another obselete part. Was mention in the fourm about the brake dust shields from Toyota not being available for some models, think it was to do with the pattern / die being lost or something ? Some talk about third parties making them, but not seen any around, but worth searching online. Hopefully someone might have a proper answer for you ....
  14. Hi, From what I can see the temp gauge and tach info for the Combination Meter/Dashboard are from connections to the ECM, rather than a sensor direct to the Meter as with the speedo. It could be when you damaged (?) your original dash you also electrically blew part of the ECM , so you new dash does not work. The only way you can prove where the fault is, is by fitting a 100% known good dash, ( though if the ECM is faulty you could damage the new dash, if thats whats happened already ?) or - you need to have the tacho and temperature pins of the ECM read out to ensure they are working ok, or replace the ECM with second hand unit. However doing so always risks introducing more faults than it cures as whoever sells it rarely knows its the exact one for your car or that its working 100%, unless you go to a specialist ecm repairer. Might be worth speaking to your local Toyota dealer to see if they can read out the ECM pins for the tacho and temp with the required test equipment or if they have some device to test the dashboard unit or try one of the dashboard/instrument cluster repairers/specialists.
  15. oldcodger

    Spark Plug

    Hi, Depends on your engine type - 1.4 petrol Bosch FR8KCU 1.6 petrol NGK BKR5EYA11 As stated in the Haynes owners workshop Manual 2002-2007 , a good buy for basic and advanced diy servicing. Details how to change the plugs and what torque pressures to use, eg 25Nm etc etc, https://haynes.com/en-gb/toyota/corolla/2002-2007