oldcodger

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    2,208
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    28

oldcodger last won the day on November 2 2019

oldcodger had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

276 Excellent

2 Followers

About oldcodger

  • Rank
    Top Rank Poster!

Profile Information

  • First Name
    oldcodger
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla 1.6
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Derbyshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi, Yes, Toyota prices are top dollar , and their spare part prices for some items can be unbeliveable, so its often worth getting good quality parts from other well known sources. Expect you could half those prices at any of the big name "high street" places like you mention plus places like Halfords, though as it seems you are not a diyer, might be worth seeking out a local general garage who should offer simlar lower prices, but who you can get to know better and hopefully rely on them for future service work ? All those jobs are just standard bread and butter work to them, if requested you can often ask what brand of part the intend to use and in some cases you could even have a choice, though that could affect the price of the job.
  2. Hi, Better if you could say how the fault developed ? Did both speakers suddenly go off together , just the other day, or have they been loosing sound now and then for some time, either one speaker at a time or both together ? What about the head unit, when the sound goes off, what does the display show, still a normal screen with a normal station and volume number displayed or does it go off when the speakers loose sound ? To test the wiring you need to use a multimeter connected between the disconnected speaker plug thats at the back of the head unit and to the actual speaker terminals, once the meter is connected then wiggle all parts of the wiring you can get hold of and see if the Resistance changes. Also move the door as where the wires goes across is a common failure point, thouhg unlikely to happen at the same time on both doors, Repeat on all four wires to the speakers If thats not something you can do most auto electricians or anyone whos handy with their own multimeter should be able to help.
  3. Hi, Sounds like you need to take it to a garage that has the equipment to check and tune your car, might be cheaper than replacing parts on a hunch... ? You could try can of CataClean just before the test or even try a different tester /station as sometimes the operator or machine can cause false readings. eg the other year, at the same test station and machine, my readings were near the upper limit and it just passed, yet the year before and the year after they were back to the usual low readings - now was that my car or a problem with the operator/machine ?
  4. Hi, Seems unlikely the wires to both speakers have failed at the same time and if you are happy their wires and plug to the head unit are ok, it sounds like a fault in the head unit itself. You do not mention the head unit display going off and on, so you could discount the power lines, Would seem to be a problem in the output stage or the plug and socket to the speakers ? You can find such used head units cheaply on ebay or the Audio /For Sale section in this forum where folk have replaced theirs for a more modern unit, probalbly cheaper than having yours repaired, if anyone would look at it ..?
  5. Hi, The struts are a common part used across many industries , not just cars, so yours will not be Toyota redundant stock. Just like any other part, if its a good seller then you get cheapies flooding the market. Like you I took a punt on the cheapies and partially lost, If you see SGSs site mine and possibly yours are about £15 each, plus they show you how to fit them Easy enough to fit in 10 mins once you have done one. Would think its worth fitting your cheapies, they might be fine , if not - https://www.sgs-engineering.com/car-boot-tailgate/toyota/corolla
  6. Hi, Replaced mine last year as they would not lift the lid fully. They are retained by a spring clip what you ease off with a screwdriver or similar blade, (need a good light and glasses to see them !!) Once one strut has been removed the lid is Very Heavy ! so do prop it or if in a garage tie it up to something. Generally you see them referred to as different part nos for L or R ones, but generally they are the same, think its that the end fittings now rotate rather than fixed ? I bought some ebay cheapies and regret it as they barely lifted the lid up fully, sometimes they do ok other times they need a gentle push. Places like SGS say theirs are good quality uk made , which are still cheaper than Mr.Ts, might go for them if mine get any worse.
  7. Hi, Yes, need to do some more road and garage tests to see if I can find the problem, might be not as problematic as first thought, but as you know once you here such noises you kind of latch on to them, though better safe than sorry. Changed the gearbox oil last August, no leaks or low level etc. Always used Comma oils. The other day, took a sample of oil from the gearbox drain plug in case there was signs of any metal fragments etc but all clean. The new clutch was some 3-4 years ago and its feels fine and no noise from the release bearing at tickover, when pressed down or released.
  8. Hi all and thanks for the replies. Must confess it does sound as if its coming from the gearbox as had read that the very early Corollas gearboxes could be prone to failure. Do get the same sound be it in 4th or 5 th gear, will have to try and drive steadily in 3rd etc and see if I can hear it in the lower gears. As for wheel bearings, seems thats going to be a difficult one to identify. The tyres are all good, Michellin Energys with even tread wear, and when it went in for the airbag recall a few months ago , surprisingly their checklist included a wheel alignent report, so know thats all ok as was the MOT etc. Did ckeck of wheel bearing play etc all seemed ok and nothing obvious when the wheel revolved, though will do the test again as that was done cold, seem the sound is not obvious until its got really warmed up, say 10 miles or so, checking it straight after a long run might show things up more ..? When the sound is noticeable am generally driving on a straightish road but will try the point of loading the wheels up more by finding some tighter bends and see if that increased or changes the sound.
  9. Hi, Seem to have developed a gearbox whine over the last week or two, seems most obvious when travelling at around 40 -50 mph at a steady quiet pace or overrun, though expect its there at other speeds but probably the general noise is drowning it out. When the whine is obvious, putting it in neutral and letting the revs drop does not change the sound, nor does pressing and holding the clutch down. Have checked the driveshafts and wheels for obstructions or play but nothing obvious, though have seen some folk suggest the wheel bearings can whine ? though in all my years of motoring never had a wheel bearing fail , so no idea how they actaully sound, thought it was more a rumble. The car , 2006 1.6 , has done 120k miles and had a new clutch at 85 k miles, been given proper gearbox oil changes at 40k /4 years and the gearchange is fine and smooth and not noticed any noise from the clutch release bearing , The real concern is if its a problem we can live with, or its likely to get worse and fail sooner ? Assume gearbox addatives like this are not really recommended or likely to improve things ? eg snake oil or could make things worse ? https://xado.co.uk/revitalizants/ex120/revitalizant-ex120-manual-gear-box Wonder if its a repairable job , by a gearbox repair specialist , or a referbished exchange gearbox that I could fit in ? getting one from a scrap dealer seems more like a game of roulette ! Any thoughts ....
  10. Hi, If you see this thread you should find an answer, though as you will see you need to get spraying the bolts threads etc with plenty of penetrating fluid and use good fitting spanners or sockets. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/186278-13-4e-fe-alternator-pivot-pin/?tab=comments#comment-1488787
  11. Seems the US models had just drums on the rears, so maybe yours is that type ? Not seen mention of such a conversion, though even if it was possible without replacing the whole costly hub , would there be that much of an improvement as most of the braking force is on the fronts, also no idea if it would affect the ABS unit /pressures etc if fitted ? If yours are rear drums might be worth looking on the US Toyota forums to see if anyone there has done such a conversion,
  12. Hi, Not aware the 2005 Corolla had drum brakes or were the Irish models that different ? Think you might be refering to the rear disc and drum combined unit , where the drum part is just used for the handbrake .. ?
  13. Hi, Thanks for the links, seems you have got most of it working ok now . Found replacing my front speakers and using door mounted tweeters (Pioneers) gave a really good sound improvement. The Haynes printed manual is good for most things including routine servicing. https://haynes.com/en-gb/toyota/corolla/2002-2007 This link https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h61621895vjxz2m/AAD9M5EsZoYdkfs7zK6orixLa?dl=0 is for a 2004 US model which can be of some general help though some differences to our 1.6 eu model.
  14. Hi Rogier, Welcome to the forum. Looks a nice conversion, something I have been considering, be interesting to know the make of the double din fascia plate/housing as it looks a good fit. Looking at my console there is a gap of about 3mm between the radio unit and the heater control panel, though not really visible when in a normal seated position. Perhaps some self adhesive black foam tape positioned before you press the panels back into position might work ..? According to the Haynes manual that switch can be unplugged from the back of the unit, so it might be avaiable as a Toyota spare on its own, it also contain a wedge type bulb. Probably the bulb has blown or the plug/wiring needs reseating ? cannot find anything to suggest it has its own fuse. As for the switch not returning, does it work ok when the outer black panel/cover is removed, could it be catching on the outer panel ? A bit of switch cleaner or silicone spray to lubricate things ? Something you do not mention that has caused problems for such conversions it the Re-connection of the steering wheel controls, not sure if it is possible on these Android units, this recent post highlights the problem, though the poster has never come back to say if they got it working ? https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/190971-corolla-e12-prefacelift-steering-wheel-control-problem-with-aftermarket-android-radio/ As well as this Corolla forum, also worth checking the Audio section - https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/forum/19-audiovideoelectronics/ Another thing often missed on routine services and worth checking /replacing is the pollen filter, located behind / after removing the glove box.
  15. Not sure about what part that is, but expect its only available from your local Toyota dealer who should soon find the part number from your registration or Vin number. Doubt anyone would produce an aftermarket part for such a small and obscure item.