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oldcodger last won the day on October 8 2017

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About oldcodger

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    Corolla 1.6
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  1. Binding brakes front and rear

    Hi, If the drum has been overheated I would expect to see a blue hue to the inside of the drum, though I doubt that is the case. Same with excessive wear, would expect your shoes would be worn down before the drum surface wore out, plus you have to renew you disc/drum more because the disc is too thin or worn unevenly. I have never been able to set up the handbrake shoes without a little bit of drag, as below. You must have a good handbrake action or it will fail the mot. What I do, is jack up both rear wheels and then back off the adjusters until they are free to rotate, and then pull the handbrake on tightly to help centralize the shoes; don't mistake pad drag for the drum drag, if possible push the pads back a bit so they do not make any noise. You may not get rid of all noise, but if you can easily rotate the wheel with just one finger between the spokes then its not really a problem, I get a slight high spot on mine. Then turn the adjusters one click at a time until you can feel the shoes biting, then back the adjuster off, I find you need to back it off two clicks, spin the drum in a forwards direction, and then forward the adjuster one click and its usually just right. Once you have both wheels done, so they are virtually free to turn, then go to the handbrake and pull it just one notch, turn the wheel and see if its added and resistance. Repeat another click until you feel the first real bit of bite, checking that its reasonably even between both wheels. I try and aim for the first bit of bite on the 2nd click, so if your does not, then adjust the cable adjuster by the side of the handbrake lever ( 2 bolts and 2 screws to remove the centre console). Ideally I try and get it so the wheel are locked hard on 4 or 5 clicks. Often I will set them up like this then do a good few miles and then recheck and adjust just before the mot. As said, I can hear a bit of drag but if you can still do the finger test I would not worry, my drums never get hot, more likely any heat is from the disc pads. It works for me and passes the mot, but expect someone else knows a better way ...?
  2. Binding brakes front and rear

    Wow, £300 for a 2005 1.6 !! .... get more than that for scrap metal ! Something seriously wrong with it , very high mileage / bodywork / paint ?? Unless someone has very badly adjusted the handbrake shoes I would suspect the pads/sliders/calipers have seized ....
  3. Binding brakes front and rear

    Hi, They do not really wear as such being just the handbrake and are part of the disc when you more often replace that. Normally easy to come off if a bit of copper grease has been applied to the hub. If they do catch on the shoes there is an inspection hole/rubber to allow the adjuster to be backed off - all in that Haynes manual. If you are working though a full service, don't forget the gearbox oil and the pollen filter behind the glove box, both often forgotten. What are you getting for fuel - I typically get 40mpg, about 42 in summer , 38 in winter currently 106k miles. Don't go by the radios mpg meter, it can be very fickle, sometimes very close other times way, way off, use the fill the tank to full method,
  4. Binding brakes front and rear

    Hi, Think you have covered most things. The slider pins can seize , but usually can be cleaned up and lubricated ok, but do make a note of which position the one with the rubber end is located in, get them wrong and you have problems. All four calipers are a simple straight push, so easy enough to test if seized. The drum handbrakes ,I find just need a dusting with brake cleaner and a brush, then if needed adjust the handbrake by means of the adjusters in the drums and by the handbrake lever if the pull is too many notches. Also check your flexibles hoses are sound and a full brake fluid change is needed every 2 years. All well covered in the Haynes service manual, a good buy, which also gives the minimum thickness of the discs before replacement.
  5. Speedo sensor not working

    Hi, If he does not see your post have a look at Micks reply and his Link/Thread in this post. https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/181280-e11-corolla-speedo-not-working/
  6. 2005 Corolla heater fault

    Looking in 2 books, the post 2002 models have heater flap control , no heater valve as most older cable operated motors once did. Looking back at your posts, if after a good run your rubber hoses by the bulkhead are not both almost as hot then its not flowing though the matrix. As you say you have done a flow test, either you may have disturbed some sediment or the new antifreeze has caused a reaction and its blocked things or you have a massive air lock. If the old was T Red or Pink , what have you refilled with ? On some models, like mine, there is an engine block drain tap just by the exhaust manifold which helps drain all the old stuff out, I would say disconnect those rubber hoses again and do a hose pipe or similar test on the matrix to ensure it is still flowing ok. when you end the test, turn the flow off steadily so you can be sure no air is in the matrix, before reconnecting the pipes. Also test those pipe back to the engine for flow, it could be a blockage in that area or the rubber pipes themselves.
  7. Coolant Leak?

    Hi, Have you had the air con on at all ? It has a drain pipe which comes out under the passengers side carpet and out through a hole in the floorpan, so it its dislodged or perished it could be that causing the damp. Sure its not a leak from a door seal /bodywork ? sounds like it been there for a while if the carpets/felt smell and the white stuff could be a fungus growth ? ?
  8. 2003 Corolla 1.8 T Sport heating issue

    Hi, You want to look at the post just previous to yours, he's having the same problem, though would seem he has covered all the points already. You need to check if the heater control flap is operating correctly and the heater valve if fitted. If ok , disconnect the two rubber pipes going though the bulkhead to the heater matrix and see if you can get any flow though it. If its blocked search the forum as there are threads on how folk have unblocked or replaced the matrix.
  9. 2005 Corolla heater fault

    Hi, Not sure how you would test with those rubber pipes disconnected from the bulk head, I would be tempted to see if you can blow down one and get some flow out of the other to prove there is no blockage or connect a hosepipe if you have the parts, though that would dilute your expensive antifreeze. It does sound like you have done everything right.. but am stumped as to what the fault is ....
  10. 2005 Corolla heater fault

    Hi, Sounds like you have covered everything ... If you have an air lock it normally will clear itself in a few days use; plus give it a few good revs to really 'flow' the water. When you fill up, gently squeeze the rad bottom hose to push the water around. One point, your say " Hot cold knob" don't you have the digital control in your 2005 model ? The only things I would suggest is have you disconnected the bulkhead pipes to the matrix and checked that there is flow in and out of the engine block , you might have a blockage there ? Also what about the water pump, is the aux belt good, not slipping , is the pump itself ok , not semi siezed, , still got enough power to drive water around hard enough to get into the heater.
  11. Coolant Leak?

    Hi, They may look the same but there are lots of really crap jub clips out there which fail all too easily, as I have found to my cost before today, so buy some decent quality ones from a good trade stockist, not the ten for a pound types ! Also the hoses, probably original might have some slight damage / wear on its inner surface which the clips cannot seal perfectly. To be honest, on a 15 year old car, doing what you have done, I think I would have replaced both the main top and bottom hoses and used new jub clips all round. Don't forget the rad cap, its a pressure device so might be releasing fluid due to weak parts/seals. They say its going to be warmer tomorrow up to 1c !
  12. Coolant Leak?

    Hi, Is the Nissen rad a new one or s/h ? Have you checked the rads drain tap or drain plugs are not leaking, same with the hoses and clips. if they are the old ones, remaking onto new parts can often cause a leak.
  13. No Heat From Heaters?

    Two things to check, Can you see or hear the heater flaps opening and closing when you turn the temp control from min to max, its motor or gears may be faulty. You could disconnect the two rubber pipes going to the heater matrix where they are located by the bulkhead in the engine bay, and then connect a hose pipe or similar and see if you can actually feed water though the matrix or if its completely blocked or has a really bad air lock.
  14. Disc sizes?

    Why don't you email Toyota Spares Online with your reg and Vin and they should come up with the correct ones and a price . http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ToyotaOfficialStore
  15. Coolant level at Min mark

    Hi, When did you last check the level 2015 ? if so you have no idea if its a gradual or sudden lost. You need to refill to Max and then monitor a couple of times a week to see how quickly is going down. Mine dropped slowly for years, but when I replaced the thermostat it was clear it had been slowly weeping from the seal, but evaporating before it became visible to a casual look from above. You could have a slow leak from your water pump or any hose or the rad cor or CHG . If its still goes down fast and you cannot spot the leak , you need a pressure test.