stu.andrews

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stu.andrews last won the day on December 4 2011

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About stu.andrews

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  • Toyota Model
    Avensis 1800 vvti auto
  1. Use a 5w/30 Semi or Full Synthetic (Personally I would use a semi synthetic) Use a good branded make, not supermarket rubbish & obviously change the filter at the same time. 'Tis easy to do.
  2. I always used to use 5/30 in mine & the consumption was absolutely nil. Flushing, as Mistermena states, causes the carbon seal formed on piston & rings to be dissolved. It will gradually reform especially if you are now using a little bit of oil. I personally always used to use semi-synthetic 5/30 & changed at approx 5000mls. You can use 10w/40 as this is a little heavier but will take marginally longer to circulate around the engine, especially in the now cold weather. A 5w/40 could be used, giving cold weather starting protection, but is often only available as a fully synthetic oil & therefore a bit more expensive. Also, why use the more expensive petrol? Normal unleaded is fine. It is not a high compression performance engine & providing no pinking occurs, will be entirely suitable providing the timing is correct. If you are wondering why I'm talking in the past tense, it is because someone decided to alter the shape of the rear of the car by driving forwards but looking where they had been! Happy motoring!
  3. Fuel filter is located on the bulkhead below the windscreen slightly to right of centre when looking from the front of the vehicle. It has two rubber fuel pipes attached & is easy to spot. Spark plugs are normally changed at 60,000 miles as they foul very little with the lean burn engine. A long socket is required as they are low down & do not do the new ones up too tight or cross thread in the alloy head. Beware of very cheap brake linings- get a reputable make. It's pads front & rear &, I know there are two different types for the rear. Don't mess with very cheap linings or pads, the bonding is often poor-your life depends on them 100%.
  4. Thanks Charlie. No-one really knocks the RAV so-Watch this space, as they say. Ta for all your help, everyone.
  5. Thanks for all your info, folks. Will chew the cud & decide what to do. Cheers
  6. May have to think of changing my wheels & am thinking of a diesel RAV4 about 3-4 years old. Is there anything particular to look out for? Help would be appreciated. Thank you.
  7. Have been using Carlube 5W/30 in my 52 reg Avensis. No problems & no oil burning at all.
  8. 52 plate Avensis-47mpg on the motorway if driven reasonably & no oil use between oil changes. Very pleased NEWS FLASH Well, I was until an idiot rammed me up the back at a junction-engine only just covered 41000. It's going away to Avensis heaven on Monday!
  9. Toyotas always seem very good on tyres & brakes. On my Avensis 1800 auto, at 41000mls, I'm about half way down on the front pads which I am pleased with. Front tyres still have good tread at this mileage although will be changed due to age cracking. Economical motoring, I think!
  10. The shims are there mainly to prevent brake squeal. It would be best to refit them. Wire brush all rust off all parts. Clean around caliper with an old toothbrush to get rid of the build up of brake dust, especially where the pads slide in. Smear lightly the back of the pads with copper grease & both sides of the shims at the contact points, as has been mentioned. Sometimes pattern parts are too thickly coated with paint to fit well.Pump brakes after fitting pads to seat-DO NOT WAIT UNTIL YOU HAVE TO STOP!
  11. Hi AvensisKen As Mistermena has said, using a Gunsons Eezibleed is the way to go. Follow the instructions carefully & you shouldn't have a problem. A day or two before you start, run a little WD40 onto the bleed nipple threads as they can corrode & easily snap but DO NOT LET ANYTHING OTHER THAN BRAKE FLUID get into the system. I LIGHTLY smear a copper based anti seize compound on the threads of the bleed nipples upon completion & the nipples only need to be nipped up. Start with the longest pipe run first, usually the RNS & progress to the shortest,FOS. Use transparent pipe & when the colour of the fluid changes from disgusting to light amber, you know that section is done & with very little waste.Use the grade of brake fluid listed for your model. Best of luck
  12. If you can reach the filter at all, try using thin rubber gloves-you will be surprised how well they work!
  13. No great problem. You will have to retune the radio. I had no problems when I did mine the other day. Alternatively, if you already have your new battery, connect jump leads btween the new battery & the car battery cable connections, then remove the old battery & fit the new. Then disconnect cables. WATCH THAT YOU DO NOT SHORT THE CONNECTORS! Simples! If you're wary of this second method just disconnect, swap batteries, reconnect, retune radio.
  14. Further to my previous post. Get a good branded oil. It need not be the most expensive & what is available from motor stores, so long as the specification is correct, then it will be OK. Very cheap oil like Tesco, Asda etc may reach the specs. but does deteriorate quicker & you do not know who the supplier is. Have you ever seen the Tesco or ASDA oil wells?
  15. I have run my 2002, 1800 vvti on 5w/30 semi synthetic for several years now. I change the oil at 6000ml intervals & do not have to add any between changes. It comes out as clean as it goes in. Fully synthetic is expensive & it is likely that your car may burn a little oil. It's up to you but I am fully confident running mine on semi synthetic. Change the filter every time!