theoilburner

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About theoilburner

  • Rank
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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Pete
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Prius Gen III T-Spirit / Avensis T27 T Spirit Tourer
  • Toyota Year
    2009
  • Location
    Worcestershire
  1. Hmm... interesting. Makes me think that it is the charge system of the car that is not looking after the battery properly. Do you drive your car regularly (e.g. each day to work)? Given the battery isn't being used to start the car (i.e. it is not being hit for 150A by a starter motor), either the battery charger isn't working too well and/or something on the car is discharging it faster than other cars. We do use our Prius quite regularly, 3 days a week for long journeys to work, a couple of days of local short journeys and maybe a day at the weekend for general family use too. I'm not sure whether the charging system is naff or not, but it IS a very small battery and is probably a very cheap design given that it doesn't ever turn the engine over, like you say. Remember that the Prius also has keyless entry (pretty standard on Toyota now, I suppose), so it's always scanning around the doors and boot for a key nearby, that must take quite a bit of juice too. I've noticed how it puts the interior lights on if you walk past with the key too... Great tip, only I have a Yaris, not a Prius. Can something similar be done on the Yaris as well?Interesting topic. I think so (disclaimer - I haven't got a Yaris so can't try it!) - if you have one of the T&G type systems, then I think you'll have a Setup button (I do on my Avensis), you can press and hold that, switch the lights on and off three times and that will get you into your diagnostic screen, assuming you have a touch screen.
  2. As it happens, we've just replaced the 12v battery on our Prius. It's on battery number 3 now. First battery went after less than a year, battery number two lasted 5 years or so. We've never done any conditioning charge or whatever in the 2.5 years we've owned it. Although after leaving the car for 2 weeks whilst on holiday, it seems it would help it to give the battery a boost before using the car, as it never seemed to like that much. However, at £90 for a new battery (which I think is fair for 5 years use), I'm not overly concerned with it. Just for the record, you'll know when your 12v is getting too low when the car starts doing strange things, like not going into Ready mode on the first press of the power button, or sections of the digital dash and HUD turning themselves off... Ours was down to 10v when I gave in and bought a new one. I'm amazed it even worked at all at that voltage really. You can also check it's state by pressing and holding INFO-TEL whilst switching the lights on and off three times. On one of the diagnostic screens that pop up, you can see the 12V battery state. Do that when not in Ready mode to get a true reading.
  3. A family friend with a doctorate in engineering asked me if we leased the batteries in our Prius. When I said, no, of course we don't (it's not some cruddy French leccy car, after all), he looked very concerned and tried to claim we were in for some massive bills when it goes wrong. Yeah...right... :)
  4. Good luck my friend. Here's a link which explains it fully, although it's a bit dry to read: https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/cars-and-other-vehicles/problems-with-the-car-you-bought/the-car-you-bought-is-faulty/ Key points (my emphasis in italics): "If you want a refund then you will have to prove the car is not of satisfactory quality. If you are asking for a repair or replacement, or a refund because the trader cannot offer a repair or replacement within the first six months, then the responsibility is on the trader to prove the car is of satisfactory quality" and "The responsibility is normally on you rather than the dealer to prove that a car is faulty in some way. However, the responsibility is on the dealer to prove that the car was of satisfactory quality when you bought it, if you discover the fault within the first six months and you are asking for: a repair ora replacement ora full or partial refund where a repair or replacement isn't possible, would cause significant inconvenience to you as the buyer or would cost a disproportionate amount to the dealer.Where the dealer is responsible for proving the car is of a satisfactory quality, they have to prove the fault wasn’t present using evidence such as an independent report into the car’s condition." I'm sure they'll try to wriggle out of it at first, but a simple PDI and maybe a service by the dealer most certainly doesn't count as an independent report. Bear that in mind when/if the excuses start to come...
  5. The good news is that the seller is liable for any faults that appear in the first six months, regardless of the length of supplied warranty. See the Sale of Goods Act. Under that, faults that are uncovered in this period are assumed to have been there when the car was sold to you. You don't even have to prove it. If they refuse to fix it for free then you should take them to the small claims court.
  6. Very confusing this new system, and maybe bad news for sales of Toyota hybrids: So after year one, all cars will be £140, unless list price is above £40k, then they're £140+£310 (yep £450 a year) until 6 years old. I foresee a lot of premium cars with special editions just under £40k to buy. Zero emissions is free - for now, as long as there isn't too many of them around, I suppose. It's not clear if £40k zero emissions are free or not. So a new Auris HSD will be £100 for the first year tax, and a Auris 1.33 petrol will be £160. I doubt the £60 saving will matter much when the hybrid is so much more to buy in the first place. And then in Year 2, they'll both be £140. Personally, I prefer the hybrids and I like the advantages of no diesel issues, reliability, smoothness etc. Not sure if that's enough for the average buyer though. That £0 car tax was a major plus.
  7. Really interesting. I'm not fond of the EPB in my Avensis, but I really like the foot operated brake in my wife's Prius. Vive le difference eh? As for diesels, whether they're clean or not, I prefer the HSD to the D4D just for the smooth driving experience. I would have had an Auris Tourer in a heart beat if I wasn't towing.
  8. It may work even if the caravan is heavier than the allowable towing weight, but you might run into trouble not only technical trouble, but also financial and legal trouble (at least here in Norway, I haven't been able to find clear UK rules for this). Yes, in the UK things are fairly clear on this. The car's V5C registration (and official technical documentation) states the maximum braked load you can pull. If you exceed this, you're breaking the law, and probably struggling to make the thing move anyway. Not suggesting that anyone here is being daft, but it's always worth checking the data before buying a caravan or new tow car. It's some kind of expensive mistake to find out afterwards... I know the Caravan Club in the UK also recommend not exceeding towing more than 85% of the cars kerbweight (assuming that's less than the towing limit), which I think might be a bit conservative, but makes a good rule of thumb all the same. The Caravan Club also recommend towing with around 40 bhp per ton, based on the total of the car being fully loaded and the caravan also at its MLTPM. You can probably get away with less, but steep hills are going to cause you some headaches from time to time if you do.
  9. Really surprised if Toyota are giving up with the plug in hybrid. Can't they see it didn't work because it was too pricey and didn't have enough range? Mitsubishi have proved with the Outlander PHEV the demand is there if you get the ingredients right.
  10. As for the Avensis, I once owned a 2005 1.8 VVTI and drove it about 60 miles after the range went to empty, it still had about 2 litres in the tank. Our Prius has been driven about about 30-40 miles on empty, not sure how much was left in it, as I didn't re-fill it. With myy current Avensis, I had a range showing of 35 miles - I filled it up and could only get 44 litres into the 60 litre tank. I agree with Heidfirst, 10 litres on reserve seems about right. My tank is running low again, how far shall I play this game again before my nerve runs out... :)
  11. Thanks FB, I've contacted them, let's see what they say.
  12. Hi Guys, I'm surprised this one hasn't been asked before, but after spending ages searching I've not come up with anything... So, I'm trying to use the Internet search, calendar and email functions, and it's not going well.. I have the Touch & Go Plus in my car, and I'm set-up on My Toyota UK. I've registered and confirmed my car and T&G+ serial number on there. I can see the service history (which is very cool) and vehicle data etc. I've managed to update my maps to the latest 2015 update, so I'm chuffed with that. Then, I've logged onto My Toyota on the T&G+ unit itself and it seems fine - to that point. I can use the Weather app OK, so I know I'm connecting to the internet via my phone. BUT - the Internet search app tells my I need to login to "my.toyota.eu" to accept the terms and conditions for the search provider, and then stops me from going any further. Fine. So I go to that site on my PC (and get re-directed), and nowhere, I mean nowhere can I find anywhere to accept the T&C for Google. Or, set-up the calendar/email either. Anybody actually managed to do this in the UK? There is a tab in the E-Store on My Toyota that says "Connected Services", but when I click that I get a message saying "no connected services available". Thanks.
  13. Downloaded yesterday and installed today without any issues on our Avensis. Have to say though, first thing I noticed was that it thought there was a 40 mph limit and speed camera on the M50 which isn't there any more (from road works, I suppose), so maybe not that up-to-date. D'oh! It did have the latest speed limit data on local roads near my home, so that was handy. Otherwise, I was just relieved it didn't brick my T&G unit!
  14. Good news, I've checked today and the 2015 update is now available.
  15. Just checked my instructions (mine was a Right Connections kit, not the official Toyota one) and you're right - it's a light blue wire for the fog light. My kit didn't do anything fancy - it was a simple and literal cut of that wire, then I crimped some new connectors on the ends and slipped them into a plastic connector block that came with the kit. Not as trusty as soldering and heat shrinking true, but seems okay. I'm with you on the build quality - despite the idiosyncrasies of Toyota design, I can't fault how they screw a car together. I was impressed when I was taking interior panels apart a) how easily and logically they came off without undue force and b) how neatly they all went back in again and fitted as good as new. Clearly it's been designed to be assembled quickly but properly. Fair play to Toyota for that. BTW, I wouldn't recommend the Right Connections kit to anyone, they provided two diagrams for the wiring blocks (pre and post facellift) and neither matched my car. Cue lots of scratching of head to work out what the correct wires should be from which multi-connector before cutting them! Plus, they routed the wires via the bulkhead in the driver's footwell, which is a nightmare to get through the engine bay without touching hot things or moving things. Looking at the instructions for the Toyota kit, they go through an access point behind the glovebox - much nearer to the battery and on the correct side of the car...