reidy

Steven smells! :P *runs back to C C U K

He's already on C.CUK , and Stu you've met this guy lol

The 2ZZ has individual coil packs per cylinder so no HT leads. Spark plugs were recently discussed on the other channel, most people tend to use Denso IK22's

As above Oil, Oil filter, Gearbox oil, Pollen filter and Drive belt Any decent brand 5w30 fully synthetic oil. The OEM denso oil filter is the best for the 2zz Brakes: MTEC drilled and grooved are a firm favourite (as said above) Induction kit: The pipercross viper kit seems to be the trend at the moment, requires a small amount of custom work to make full use of the cold air feed Lowering Springs: TTE/Eibach, Apex and H&R are recommended. Definitely a must on the Pre Facelift T Sports Rear Anti Roll Bar: Probably the best modification for the CTS, really sharpens up the handling especially when combined with a good set of springs. Progress and Whiteline produce good quality bars Front Strut: All the same really, you will need to bend a brakeline in order to make one fit on a Pre Facelift car I have done all the above bar the brakes and my car goes and sounds brilliantly, the handling was vastly improved by adding the springs, front strut and rear arb

The facelift was introduced on the 04 plate, there are a mix of pre facelift and facelift cars on an 04 plate

This was nearly a year ago and given how it ended I can't see there being another

You mean you want to remove the drive belt? A guide is being created on the other channel, here's a quick procedure of what to do to remove/change the belt. This isn't 100% but should at least help 1) Draw a diagram of how the belt runs around each accessory 2) 19mm spanner + bar on the tensioner "nut" 3) Pull the spanner towards you to release the tensioner off the belt. You need to hold it there to keep it that way 4) Whilst holding the tensioner, flick the belt off the alternator and remove. 2nd person makes life a lot easier 5) Route new belt around all accessories as per your diagram starting at the back of the engine, make sure that the belt is properly in between the guides on all the pulley's 6) Release tension again using spanner + bar and put the new belt around the alternator pulley 7) Check that the belt is ran as per your diagram, is in between all the pulley guides and tight all the way around

Bang on there mate, Eibach's are a bit dearer though

Anything of use here buddy? http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_43/Category_2/

Send Parts-King a PM, I got some back in September last year They drop a pre facelift car by 30mm and a facelift car by 15mm, this is because the facelift model already sits 15mm lower. The TTE springs do improve handling quite a bit as they are stiffer

What the Corolla T Sport owners usually do is space the the post cat sensor out of the exhaust stream so that it doesn't see a high reading. Running decat is an MOT fail as mentioned but most tend to just stick the cat back in before their test Sports cat's are a good compromise, some people do still experience CEL's though Performance wise decatting is well worth doing on any car

Bearing noise under engine braking is something to do with the clutch release bearing, its common Never heard of a failure relating to this though

Have a look at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-TOYOTA-COROLLA-SPORTS-TWIN-EXHAUST-/360422556260?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53eadbc264#ht_1399wt_1163 The part number is different to the T Sport TTE backbox so I guess this is for the 1.4/1.6

Your a crafty....