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About PetrolDave

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    Aygo x-clusiv x-shift
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  1. The MMT isn't an automatic, it's the same gearbox as a manual but with actuators fitted instead of the gear selector cables and clutch cable. So you use exactly the same gearbox oil - because it's exactly the same gearbox! BTW it's very important that you use GL-4 oil and NOT either a GL-5 or GL-4/5 oil as the higher sulphur content of these can damage the gearbox internals.
  2. Or maybe getting that section of the rear wiring from a local scrap yard? Or smallcarsrus.co.uk
  3. One of the mechanism-less (i.e. no CD/DVD player) double DIN units would be an easier fit.
  4. I've recently switched from a manual C1 to an MMT (x-shift) Aygo so I've having the same learning experience! There is only one reverse gear, so it's just a case of being delicate on the throttle - just enough to get it moving and as soon as it moves easing off.
  5. The gap between second and third is noticeably larger than it was in my 2008 manual, I'm still having to learn what is the optimum revs to change from second to third is (I've only done around 1300 miles in my new Aygo). Maybe in E mode it still shifts at the revs that were right for the earlier gear ratios?
  6. In October last year I swapped my 2008 model for a new 2020 model, I too noticed the very different engine noise. Then I looked under the bonnet and saw a completely different inlet manifold and on doing some research found that the new models have a different variant of the 1KR-FE engine that has many differences: - longer inlet tract that enhances torque - 2 injectors per cylinder - variable valve timing on both inlet and exhaust valves - heated EGR system https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/19-10-20_faq_kr-engine_eng.htm - look at the type '18 details. When
  7. AFter getting my Aygo x-shift in October 2020 I quickly learnt that when tackling the hills in north Devon it was far better to go into manual mode so I could change down a gear early enough to keep momentum. Doing that I have no problem with the hills, even a 25% (1 in 4) one on my regular routes.
  8. I never needed to replace the engine mounts on my 12 year old C1, they're not regarded as a consumable item nor one that needs regular replacement. The rubber in them will be softer when hot like after a motorway run, but that will apply to new mounts also.
  9. On the Mark 1 (which OP has) factory tweeters were fitted in the A-pillar (I purchased a set of Mark 1 Aygo A-pillars off eBay for my previous C1 specifically because they had the tweeters). In the dash were mid-range speakers, and if you were lucky enough to have front door speakers they were woofers (not sub-woofers).
  10. It's all down to the programming of the engine management - so there's nothing that can be done. If you think this is bad then you need to have experienced a prototype Ford Escort cabrio that it was my misfortune to drive back in 1993 - when the aircon turned on & off the car would violently decelerate or accelerate to an extent that was positively dangerous.
  11. Everything I've read says the gearbox oil capacity is 1.7litres. As steveo3002 says you fill until the oil comes out the filler hole.
  12. Check the oil level, it could just need topping up.
  13. PetrolDave

    Usb hub

    ...what I do. USB adapter in 12V socket to power Road Angel GPS speed camera warning device, music source plugged into USB.
  14. Agreed 190mm, manual (non MMT)builds up to 2008 had 180mm after that all became 190mm - which is what I had fitted when the clutch on my 2008 C1 failed in 2011.
  15. Just got some Thule Wing Edge Bars in Black https://www.thejourneycentre.co.uk/bars-boxes-carriers-c14/complete-roof-bar-systems-c49/thule-wingbar-evo-edge-black-roof-bars-toyota-aygo-5-dr-hatch-14-normal-roof-p6812
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