mrpj

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mrpj last won the day on October 4 2018

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About mrpj

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  • First Name
    Peter
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris Icon+ Multidrive
  • Toyota Year
    2014
  • Location
    Staffordshire

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  1. Pot, kettle black. Maybe your phone is doing similar?
  2. " Toyota have declined to pay under extended warranty as it is wear and tear," That's exactly why I haven't taken out their extended warranty. It's too easy a get out and, like any of these warranties, a waste of money, in my opinion. A steering rack shouldn't wear out in 6 years and 106k miles. I'd wager most of that mileage is on mostly stright roads too. The steering rack on my 167k miles (yes it's been round the clock and started at 0 after 99000), 57 years old Morris Minor is still as good as new!
  3. Two mirrors, yes, but not two external mirrors.
  4. " it will be turned off manually every time from now" Good idea. It should be designed off by default and the driver choose whether to switch on or not. Too much stress on the starter motor, battery and engine in my opinion.
  5. Presumably the radiator/condensor cooling fan is operating? Have you looked to see if the condensor is obstructed in any way? Leaves, insects, bent/corroded fins, general rubbish etc.? It usually sits in front of the engine cooling water radiator so more vulnerable to blockage of air passage. However, if blocked could restrict air to radiator and cause some engine overheat which is not mentioned. You don't say what the low side/suction pressure is. e.g. possibly a partially blocked or inoperative expansion valve. Or just simply - overcharged.
  6. These might be of use? The black cylindrical part of the repeater is the lamp holder. One backside covering caveat, the 2018 year mirrors might not be the same though.
  7. Recently replaced one of mine for the same reason. Had to buy a new primed cover (courtesy of Parts-King) and spray it myself. It is easier to remove the cover after the mirror glass has been removed. That is only clipped into place (a circular clip arrangment). Although not strictly necessry. Adjust the glass to one of it's extreme positions and either using your fingers or a "padded" pry tool lever the glass off - it's a bit daunting but will release. If it's heated there are two push on connectors to remove. Access to the cover securing clips, to squeeze them together, then makes it easier to release by minimising the risk of broken clips. It is a horizontal remove. The indicator repeater plastic cover is held in place by one almost central clip, again a horizontal removal.
  8. Thanks for that listing FB. The dealer I purchased from and have used for servicing is, fortunately, not on the list and I have registered for the 5+ Club. However, I did e-mail the dealer re their participation but received no response. I will,of course, check with them, by phone, prior to when the next service is due.
  9. They are not 100% sealed and, in spite of what some might tell you, do lose some gas over time. The biggest culprit is the compressor's shaft seal. That's why it is recommended to run the system over the colder months. Even around 10 minutes a week is sufficient. I had mine "regassed" last year, local garage, and over the four years it had lost about 30g of refrigerant. Capacity and type of gas should be on a plate under the bonnet. UV dye added to the system, a Sniffer" and/or pulling and holding a vacuum will determine whether there are any potential leaks. All done using a dedicated machine which extracts the old gas and oil and adds the correct amount of gas and oil. My system is essentially tight in spite of the small loss.
  10. Can't assist re the rubber, sorry. The cabin fuse board is on the passenger side, behind and below the glovebox. There is a piece of trim in the footwell which is secured by three plastic spring clips, nearest to you. The cover should drop slightly as each clip is released. The cover is only slotted into position at the engine side. Your handbook should show this. Once removed, look up and the fuse box is visible. The cover pulls off and each fuse is identified. I used the 15A CIG (accessory socket), position 15, to hardwire my dashcam. It is ignition switched, i.e. ignitioin off, no power. If you are using a "piggyback", as most do, the cover will not fit anymore. Removing the glovebox helps for hardwiring access too. I carry the cover in my glovebox for reference.
  11. " Two FREE MOTs over the course of your warranty period." " If your vehicle fails an MOT, a Toyota Extended Warranty protects against unexpected repair bills. As long as the vehicle is repaired and passes, we will pay for parts and labour, up to the vehicle’s purchase price. All you’ll pay is the original MOT test fee and the first £10 of any repair costs covered by the Extended Warranty." Isn't that a contradiction? Why has the MOT test to be paid for when the warranty includes two "free" MOTs? I never did receive a definitive answer from Toyota as to whether the CVT is covered. They were very vague in their reply. Must have been written by a politician.😄 " the replacement of parts due to wear & tear " And as with most of these extended warranties, there's the get out clause.
  12. 👍 Give it a go in that CIG (fuse no. 15) supply, it is ignition switched. Retain the existing 15A for the accessory socket and use a smaller fuse for the dashcam "piggyback".- say the 5A which you are using. That's assuming you've used the original 5A and another 5A to supply the camera?
  13. Have you tried supplying it from another fuse? e.g. the accessory socket fuse, number 15 CIG, 15A if I recall. That's where my dual cameras are supplied from using a "piggyback" connection. A 5A fused circuit doesn't seem enough to me. Also it is advised to never connect to an essential or safety related supply. I'd certainly never go anywhere near one marked ECU!😨
  14. mrpj

    Oil change

    Cherry red and quench in cold water will anneal them successfully. Will they be copper? The engine drain plug washer is made from some sort of hard fibre.
  15. Don't, is my input. Been there and they are an absolute pile of poo. You will quickly regret it, be prepared for mega expense if/when it has problems. It's going to be 8 or more years old too. The most common issue I found is that the computer which controls it is "thick". It may be driven in manual mode but that sort of defeats the object. They sometimes, however, throw a wobbler in "M" too. One of Toyota's poorer decisions to adopt it. They learned from the error with the Mk3 and replaced the MMT with Multidrive (CVT). Much better if your finances can stretch to a Mk 3.