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mrpj last won the day on October 4 2018

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  1. mrpj


    And to quote my own post, can't edit? To correct my rookie error, lbfft, not ftlbf. The latter being work done.
  2. As Steven says, Amron. No need to remove it. I have front and rear dashcams, the power cable and coaxial rear feed are easily tucked in behind the top of that trim, each side. Probably the same may be done with the aerial cable? I think the airbag is situated below the top of that trim piece. There is a "special"clip low down which needs to be turned through 90 degrees, using long nosed pliers. Just a conventional push in clip(s) higher up. The lower clip is to ensure the trim doesn't fly off in the event of the airbag deploying.
  3. I recently paid £37 (delivered) for 5 litre of Toyota 0W20 from a dealer, on the bay. Manufacturing date on the container, late 2020 with a 5 years unopened shelf life. Other parts, from the bay, always from a dealer or even Toyota's official store there (as Lee suggests). Parts-King too, who can be very competive re prices.
  4. mrpj


    It should be in the manual as Christopher has advised. I would suggest 103Nm (76ftlbf) for wheel nuts assuming they are Toyota's usual M12x 1.25. Which is slightly more than 72ftlbf.
  5. Thanks Tony. I was pleasantly surprised at how pristine the brake hardware is. It's exactly as it was after the drum was removed. The two small marks on the backplate are from the two bolts used, dare I say?, to jack off the hub! Hopefully to last more than 30k miles!
  6. For reference, I used a Blueprint assembly. ADT38387. Silicone greased the spigot and Dinitrol ML sprayed the axle flange side. Used new hub flange bolts and blue Loctite too, for peace of mind.
  7. That's exactly what happened to that one on my car Jon! Replaced by plastic until I started using a tyre pressure monitoring system with external sensors. They have steel locking nuts for security but I don't use them for that reason.
  8. I changed front pads and discs for a neighbour, a couple of years ago. They were Textar pads (made in France) and no maker's i/d on the discs which were made in Italy. I got what I thought was a good deal, on evilbay, from a Toyota dealer. I think the four pads and two discs were around £75 delivered! It's possibly sometimes worth keeping an eye on prices there. Genuine Toyota 0W20 can be had for a comparitively good price too (5 litre). In fact the last 5 litre I bought was cheaper than ECP's Triple QX 0W20 at the time.
  9. Thanks Keith. I do that myself, constantly! Managed to change it. Not too stuck. But who devised the plug for the wheel sensor? No way to release the locking tab and I had to lever it off with a screwdriver. There is a clipped on protective cover and advice is not to remove that because the wiring is really thin, flimsy and easily damaged. As far as I could determine there is no way to release the plug correctly without removing that cover. I therefore had to don the straw boater hat and white striped apron. If anyone knows different then please advise, because I might change the oth
  10. Thanks Bob. That looks a bit high, but I'll take your word for it. Keith, that method should work with the bolt through from the back and into a threaded hub fixing flange. I've seen use of hydraulic power steering too rather than a lump hammer! I can't see how it would with the bolts through a clearance hole in the flange and into the threaded axle flange?
  11. Does anybody know the correct torque setting for the four hub assembly bolts? Thanks. Various figures quoted on t'internet!
  12. I know! I have been quoted £233 inc. VAT by a Toyota dealer. Maybe not selling many due to the extortionate pricing? They are as cheap as £30 on the old evilbay. No thanks. 6 months life if optimistic. Probably o.k. if moving the car on. My only concern re d.i.y. is if it is seized in the axle.
  13. Thanks for all the replies. I only mentioned "sealed for life" as that is what many things are now and it could mislead some. The car has been serviced on time, 5 years by Toyota, the last two an independent. That's not relevant though, because wheel bearings are not a serviceable item only a MOT check or maybe part of a routine service check. It has been "humming" for some time. I didn't initially think bearing noise because of the mileage. Thought it might be a sporty exhaust noise. It's the nearside, rear which seems to be where all the manholes, grids and potholes seem to be loca
  14. My Yaris was serviced and MOTd yesterday. 29900 miles from new. I thought that the Yaris was "bullet proof" if looked after? That is not relevant here because many parts are not serviceable, the so-called "sealed for life". An odd statement really because it only means the life of the component. It failed on a rear wheel bearing. That should not happen at that mileage. A really logical design too, the complete hub has to be changed rather than a properly engineered part where the actual bearing(s) may be changed. I was aware of a possible issue, because of a humming noise at certain
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