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Toyota Model

Found 236 results

  1. I noticed that the combined mpg for Icon+ is around 5mpg higher than the Trend model, I was wondering if anyone here has had experience with that and knows if the 5mpg does actually translate to on-road results? Also, which one would you recommend buying? Thanks
  2. Hi there, I'm new to the forum and I'm impressed by the content already here, everyone seems super friendly... Can anyone point me in the direction of the Crank sensor can be found on a 2006 1.3 VVTi Petrol Yaris, please? I've got P0016 showing on an ODBC Code Reader and have changed the Camshaft Position Sensor but I can find no exact location of the crank sensor on any website, google search or youtube video etc.... I can't see it under the rear of the engine, and the only thing I can see similar looks the wrong shape, and is obscured by the aircon pump on the front of the engine by timing chain cover... If it's not the Cam sensor or Crank Sensor I'm thinking it might be a timing chain change... Many thanks, Bob
  3. Hi guys Ive got a problem with my Yaris t sport 2001, there is an intermittent lack of power that happens anywhere in the rev range and at all speeds, if I keep my foot in the same place it’ll suddenly come alive and gooo. Sometimes the car is flawless and pulls well and sometimes it acts like this. I’ve checked all the love data of the o2 sensors and maf etc... however the timing advance seems to jump around quite a lot, I was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or wether there’s common issues with the vvti system. Thanks in advance
  4. ConnieElise

    Problems with Pwr Heat Yaris 2009

    Hi guys! My PWR Heater in my Yaris 2009 1,4 D4D suddenly stopped working. I want to try to reset it, but I can't find the fuse. I can't find any wiring diagram online, and I dont know where the control power Is located. Does anyone here know how to reset the power heater? Also would like to hear if anyone else had problems with the pwr heater and what was wrong with it. Thank you :D
  5. Hi, My Parking brake is not holding my car anymore what could be the problem? thanks
  6. r30ser

    1.4D Performance chip

    Hi All, I expect this has been asked many times, but I cannot find anything conclusive. I own a MK2 Yaris 1.4d (early 2011), I wanted to know if anyone had experience with Chipping the engine with a tuning box? / and or Remap? There are several providers of the tuning boxes, but I am unsure as to which would be best, if any? I know enough, that I wont be buying a cheap one from a certain bidding website. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  7. Burgerman

    Old girl problems

    Can anyone Help I have an old Yaris (2000)been for Mot Had a FULL exhaust system fitted including CAT . She has a Fault Code (running Lean bank 1) I disconnected lambda got no code when I first start even when she's warm we are getting a very bad smell of petrol not very good for missus whos asthmatic Now she's dolling lumpy. !!!( car not missus ) PLEASE HELP
  8. Hi all, Recently bought a T-Sport Yaris (2001), with an intake and exhaust. I’m wondering what kind of miles I should get out of a full tank? I picked it up Monday night, filled it up (£50) as the light had come on. Fuel was £1.35 a litre. It’s currently telling me I’m getting 39.4MPG, I’ve only done 240 miles and I’ve only got 3 bars left. Does this seem right to anyone? Wondering what everyone else normally gets out of a full tank.
  9. El Gato

    Yaris tail lights issue

    Hi all, My reg 08 Yaris tail lights are not coming on anymore. I have checked the fuse behind the passenger box and it seems fine. According to all the fuse diagrams I have checked, the corresponding fuse is also the same one for the plate lights but these are working OK. I have also checked both bulbs and they are also fine. Is there another fuse or relay that only covers the tails? Please help as I am puzzled as to what this can be. many thanks in advance!
  10. Timbo88

    Hill starts

    Hi all I'm new to this forum so firstly I shall introduce myself I'm Tim and I live in Derbyshire. I'm really struggling with hill starts in my yaris (2001) it's my first car as I've just passed my test but I cannot seem to get the hang of hill starts in it I know it will be because I'm a new driver and I'm still getting used to the car but I was wondering if even any of you lot struggle even with experience behind the wheel ? Any tips on how to correct this are welcome also have a nice evening.
  11. Blueman2

    5v or 12v outlet in boot

    Having had a very near miss, I am thinking of fitting a rear facing dashcam, this will obviously need power. Rather than running a very long cable from the 12v outlet in the dashboard, does anyone know if there is a convenient place to pick up ignition controlled 5 or 12v in the boot area?
  12. Hi all, stuck now. 1999 1.0 Vitz 1SZ-FE, 120k miles. Had air filter, oil and filter and plugs twice in the last year/8k miles and a new O2 sensor in exhaust in November to fix a CEL. Just done a gearbox oil change. Car runs spot on all the time under normal conditions. Firstly, When in a traffic light GP race with the bin lorry for example, foot to the floor, change gear at 5 or 6000rpm, change 1st to 2nd 'fairly quickly' - once into 2nd, clutch fully out and back on throttle, car feels like it rocks slightly and doesn't accelerate for about a second. Then it goes. Secondly, say coming up an onramp onto the motorway, 3rd gear, full throttle, 6000rpm into 4th. Smooth gear change, back on the throttle. You can physically feel the car coming into life a full second or two after putting the throttle back down. It's like you put your foot down, and the car gives you 40% throttle for a second or two, and then it jumps to 100% throttle. Sorry it's hard to explain. Has anyone got any ideas? All I've read on Google is things about a new fuel filter or cleaning the oil control valve. Thanks
  13. CodyTheFurry

    Help! 2009 2-door strange fault!

    This morning driving to work my check engine light came on. This is normal as I have been having an intermittent issue with the Emissions Control Valve so I thought nothing of it. It went out as I normally expected it to after a while but right after my BRAKE and ABS lights came on. This was weird, have never seen this before but they went out after about 10 minutes and I thought nothing more of it. After driving about another hour they came on again this time accompanied by a loss of some power. they went out and the power came back after about 10 minutes again. I attached my OBD2 reader and there were no codes at all, just the expired codes from the EMCV. Alright strange. After driving another hour or so my entire dash lit up like a Christmas tree! pretty much every fault light came on! I pulled over off the highway, shut down the car and let it sit for about 5 minutes, started it up and everything seemed fine, I was wrong. Happened again about 5 minutes from home.... Not sure what to do about this, maybe there is something I have to rest, or maybe I am going to need to bring it in for some serious maintenance... I am not much of a car guy but to me this seems like an electrical issue. What are your thoughts? Gas mileage seems fine, still around 35-45MPG based on the 10 gallon tank divided by miles accomplished. Edit: Was literally caused by some water. RESOLVED.
  14. Dubliner

    Yaris 99 Shaking And Low Power

    Hi All, I have a Yaris 99 and it suddenly started to shake when Idle or at stop. It also started to have very low power at low revs. What do you think the problem might be? Actually just before this problem I hit the front bumper to the pavement but there is no visible signs of problem (e.g. oil leak etc.) at the engine. Thanks
  15. Hi All, I have a 1999 Yaris 1.0L. When the engine is fully warmed up the idle drops to around 500-600 RPM, which is supposed to be normal for the Yaris. However, when pressing the accelerator to pull away the engine will almost stall before the revs come up to where they should be. This is particularly bad when needing to pull away quickly because the car won't go for a second or two because the idle drops before rising back again. This doesn't happen when the engine is cold because the idle speed is higher. I hope this makes sense. I've also tried blipping the accelerator in neutral, and it does exactly the same thing. Can anyone help as to what this may be?
  16. Hi, Been driving a Yaris with MMT gearbox. Struggling to control the car when taking off and parking up. The car doesn't creep when in E (drive) and the brake has been released. I have to press the gas down which it makes it very hard to control the car when negotiating tight spaces. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I've heard the car creeps if you go into manual mode and you're in M1. Cheers
  17. sconly

    Yaris 2004 bonnet release

    I'm in need of some advice, please... I can't open my bonnet. The lever inside the vehicle pulls all the way up (feels loose) - as though the cable has come off at one end, knowing my luck on the catch at the front of the bonnet. Can anyone suggest best way around this, or post a drawing of how the front catch is activated? Thanks.
  18. Hi All, I am new to forum and recently bought yaris 1.3vvti petrol 2009 manual. I am faced with a dilemma of knowing a noise that i hear when i press the paddle quickly in neutral and noticeable purring noise comes and the disappears as car rev higher i.e 1500-2000 rpm. Also same sound appear when car is in a high gar and i push the paddle to give it a but juice and same purring noise comes and once rpm goes higher it disappears. This noise is similar to some sort of exhaust noise that one can experience at silencer end. There is no leak in silencer. I am baffled what is this noise. If anyone has experienced this please share your knowledge and findings. Much appreciate your help. Kind regards
  19. rngd5

    Yaris 1.0 to 1.5 engine swap

    I have a 2002 1.0 french built yaris. I have been driving it around for 1 year. I have recently purchased a damaged 2005 1.5 t sport. The donor car has body damage on the near side. The 1.0 engine is underpowered and I am hoping to swap it to a 1.5. I know it's easier to just buy a new car but I want a cheap project car for the summer to practice on. Now for the questions: Will the 1.5 engine fit straight into a 1.0 engine bay or do i need to fabricate engine mounts or cut into the chassis? Will i need to swap the entire front end over to the 1.0? Transmission, drive shafts, suspension, steering, brakes? What electrical work is required to make the 1.5 engine run?
  20. Mick F

    Broken Plastic Trim

    I've had a bit of an incident and broken the silver plastic trim RH side front next to the front black grille. No other damage as far as I can see. Photo of it before the incident to show the part involved. No doubt I can get one from our local friendly Toyota dealer, but what's the cost of them? Is there another source? Also, how would I fit the new one, or should I just leave it to our friendly Toyota dealer? Mick.
  21. Itzzemiilyx

    ABS fault

    Hi, My abs light has been on for a few months now it started as being every now and again but it's been on constantly for maybe just over a month now and I'm in no situation to be paying the ridiculous costs my local garage are wanting to charge me they've quoted £70 for a diagnostic before any work and told me to expect the worst as normally when abs comes on its the ECU that may need replacing and I'd be looking at around the £500 mark so I've decided to have a look myself. So I found a video on YouTube about resetting the ABS light by connecting a jumper wire from pin 4 to pin 13 where the OBD sensor goes and pressing the brake 8 times. This hasn't reset the light but I've managed to read the code it's giving. The ABS flashes 3 times pauses then 7 times before going off for roughly 4 seconds then repeating again. I've read somewhere that code 37 is a faulty rear speed sensor rotor and was wondering if anyone could explain to me how I would go about checking that part and possibly replacing it if it needs replacing? I have basic electrical engineering knowledge with me working as a technician so I think I'd be able to fix this myself 🤣
  22. So the central locking actuator died on the drivers door. Tried a used toyota one, same fault. Bought a universal 5 wire actuator to replace it, had it all wired up and working. Drivers door window broke and glazier said the popper was fouling the mechanism, so as a temp measure I cut the actuator back out. Scroll forward a few months and trying to reinstall the door actuator and I cannot remember how its meant to be wired. I thought it was Yaris Actuator White/Black to Black - Ground aka Earth Green/Black to white - Unlock Signal Brown / Yellow to Brown - Lock Signal Blue/Red to white also - Remote Signal (?) Blue/Black to Blue - Lock power Blue/orange to Green - Unlock Power Except having the green/black connected to white and the brown/yellow to brown causes the locks to all cycle repeatedly until unplugged From what was cut off I know the blue /red was def joined to the white. I had it all written down with what was connected to what, but the paperwork either got tossed or lost (D'OH) Any help / ideas?
  23. Miniffud

    Can Yaris 1.3 injectors it a 1.0

    Just a quick question my 1.0 Yaris is misfiring and need a new injector had a theory if 1.3 injectors would fit so I could potentially make a little more power
  24. Hello, I just bought 2012 Vitz/Yaris - imported from Japan in 2017. It is fitted with NSCP-W62 unit (sat nav/audio/rear camera) operating in Japanese. Does anyone know if it is possible to change the language to English? Gone through all of the menus with the help of Google Translate and cannot find the option to select language. The unit has SD card and I have tried swapping it to Toyota Europe SD card which does not solve the issue either. Any other ideas?
  25. YarisBoy18

    2012 Mark 3 Yaris Clunky Gearbox

    Recently purchased a manual 2012 Toyota Yaris with just under 50000 miles on the clock. However. I have noticed that the gearbox is quite clucky and not too smooth. More to my concern is the reverse gear which too often doesn't want to go into gear. Requires me to release my foot off the clutch once or twice before it goes in. Sometimes it appears to go into reverse gear with the reversing camera appearing, but just pops out into netural. I unsure if this is just a querk of the Yaris as I have read similar occurrences online or of this is a real problem.