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Aygo Excite Clutch


Fizzle
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I have just had my second service and they have told me I need a new clutch... I have done 28000 miles.   Can anyone say if this is reasonable?  Seems to me that a new clutch every couple of years is going to make this otherwise great little car a liability.!!

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Manual, MMT or X-Shift?

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Did you buy the car new or used? What type of driving do you do - urban, city stop/start, rural, etc?

Any times when you keep the clutch depressed when stationary or you keep contact with the clutch pedal?

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I drive round the M25 everyday...  the car was brand new when I bought it, I do keep the clutch depressed at traffic lights..  is that a bad thing?

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Wouldn't recommend it unless you know the lights are going to change soon. If you're stopped for more than a few seconds, Handbrake and Neutral as my instructor drummed into me!!

Also, if you're leaving it in-gear too and your foot slipped off for some reason, you'll launch into the car in front! :eek:

Another thing is it increases the wear on the clutch release bearing and diaphragm spring which can cause other problems with the clutch (I reckon the previous owner of my old Yaris did this: I had to get the clutch changed because it was becoming extremely hard to move off on a hill; I had a look when the mechanic took out the old one and the spring on the old clutch was almost flat on one side and the release bearing was worn and wobbly so it deffo needed replacing. The actual clutch disc was noticeably worn around the outer half too, although the mechanic reckoned it had at least 20,000 miles left in it otherwise!)

TBH tho', if you're in heavy start-stop traffic all the time it's not uncommon for the clutch to wear down quickly. My old crappy Fiesta was awful for clutches and just ate them up in slow start-stop urban drives and they only lasted about 20,000 miles!! Partly it was because the crap engine meant I had to give it some revs to move off without stalling, esp. on hills or even turns!, which no doubt wore the clutch plate more. By comparison, with my diesel Yaris I can engage the clutch without even touching the accelerator and it'll happily move off at 800rpm rather than the 1800+ the Fiesta needed! That's gotta be a factor. (Also I'm a muuuch better driver now than I was then; Getting the knack of idle-rolling through traffic without having to stop while the person in front of me is start-stop kangarooing all the way! :tongue:)

 

Oh, I also remembered, there was a thing with one generation of Aygo where the clutch disc was too small and wore out really quickly, but they fixed this by using the bigger one from a Yaris. Our omniscient overlord Frosty can probably tell you whether yours is affected or not, but if it is then the new clutch should hopefully last a lot longer!


 

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3 minutes ago, Cyker said:

Oh, I also remembered, there was a thing with one generation of Aygo where the clutch disc was too small and wore out really quickly, but they fixed this by using the bigger one from a Yaris. Our omniscient overlord Frosty can probably tell you whether yours is affected or not, but if it is then the new clutch should hopefully last a lot longer!

Afraid I'm a serf like anyone else on the forum.

The first generation Aygo had the smaller clutch, and this was replaced in production by the larger clutch from the Yaris in 2009. The second generation isn't affected by this.

As far as I'm aware keeping the clutch depressed at traffic lights, etc puts strain on the clutch and can cause problems. Also riding the clutch (keeping one's foot resting lightly on the clutch pedal when travelling) can increase wear. This doesn't just affect the Aygo. 

Usually the new car warranty (in Toyota's case the 5 year/100,000 mile warranty) only covers things like clutches for a limited time, as they are viewed as a wear and tear item. All manufacturers are the same with this.

As Cyker has said, when stationary, use either the handbrake or the brakes, put the car in neutral and release the clutch. Then when ready to move, move off as normal.

 

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i have posted an image of a clutch

when you are driving the clutch plate (lining) is sandwiched between the flywheel & the pressure plare

when you stop at traffic lights with your foot on the clutch the pressure plate moves away from the clutch plate

and lets the clutch plate rotate, this rotating motion wears the lining of the clutch plate and after continual

rubbing the clutch will be come worn out and start to slip. this goes for all manual gearboxes from any manufacturer.

to stop the clutch from prematurely wearing out ,when your stopped for a long period of time i.e. traffic lights

put the car into neutral and take your foot OFF the clutch pedal.

clutch.jpg

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From experience the clutch in these 2nd generation ones (the ones with the newer clutch) will go at 60,000 miles. I'd have expected the early clutches to go at 30,000 miles. I know one guy who's clutch had to be changed after 16,000 miles with the first clutches.

Whats exactly wrong with the clutch for them to say it needs a new one? Is the clutch slipping? You can adjust the clutch cables on these cars which would prolong the inevitable.

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Yes, would be interesting to know some more details on how the Toyota dealer came to this conclusion. Guessing that you've owned the car from new, have you noticed any difference in the clutch operation such as stiffness, slipping or noises?

Have they said if Toyota will contribute towards a new clutch? If not, how much have they quoted for the full cost?

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23 minutes ago, fordulike said:

Have they said if Toyota will contribute towards a new clutch? If not, how much have they quoted for the full cost?

As the car is two years old, and clutches carry a only limited warranty being a wear and tear item, unless there is a manufacturing fault it is doubtful Toyota will contribute.

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1 hour ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

As the car is two years old, and clutches carry a only limited warranty being a wear and tear item, unless there is a manufacturing fault it is doubtful Toyota will contribute.

I've read, that the Toyota dealer needs to strip it down at the owner's cost, to see if it is a manufacturing fault. The problem is, that it would be highly likely that they attribute the clutch problem to driving style, which means that it won't be covered under warranty. As the car is already stripped down at the dealer, then you are pretty much stuck with paying their clutch replacement cost.

I got a quote at my local garage for £360, VAT inclusive, which I think is fair. My clutch is ok at the mo, but I'm just thinking ahead, in case the unthinkable does happen.

Anyone know what the Toyota dealers are actually charging for a manual clutch replacement on an Aygo these days?

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Yes the clutch will need to be removed to see what the issue is, but if it is a warranty issue, the removal cost will then be covered as part of the warranty claim. 

On our previous 2012 Hyundai i20, we experienced some clutch judder when it was 2 years 9 months old (16,000 miles). Expected to pay for a new clutch. However, the dealer replaced it under warranty with a modified clutch and also replaced an oil seal that had been weeping.

As always it is the owner's choice.

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1 minute ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

Yes the clutch will need to be removed to see what the issue is, but if it is a warranty issue, the removal cost will then be covered as part of the warranty claim.

I suppose it's a bit of a lottery whether it will get done under warranty. I'd prefer to get a replacement done at the Toyota dealer, but the uncertainty of whether they will honour a warranty claim, plus the high quotes that people are getting, means I'd probably get it recovered straight to the local garage.

Hopefully someone can give an example of an up to date dealer price, so I can ponder. Mmmmmmmmmm :biggrin:

 

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I might be imaging this, but I'm sure I saw something about Toyota redesigning a part of the clutch actuator, late 2013. Maybe the release fork???

Anyone shed some light on this, or am I truly going bonkers :blink:

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Holding your foot on the clutch will not wear out the clutch plate. It puts strain on things like the clutch cover, release bearing and the crank thrust bearings but the clutch plate itself will be spinning freely. If you have ever seen a clutch operating with the ability to view it through the bell housing you'd be surprised how much room the clutch gets to spin freely.

If the car is still driving well and you can climb hills without the engine revving on it's own indicating a worn clutch plate, carry on driving it and ignore the dealer. Take it to a private, independent garage if you want a second opinion but I seriously doubt you have worn it out in 2 years and 28k miles.

Craig.

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Fizzle, could you post how the dealer came to the conclusion that you need a new clutch please. Are you noticing any difference in clutch operation or unusual noises?

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  • 3 months later...

My toyota excite had its second birthday last week, it had done nearly 14000 miles and i took it to a toyota garage for a second service! They told me the clutch has got a high bite and quoted me 580 pounds for a new clutch. Not covered under the warranty they said unless when they see its a manufacturing fault. I am a careful driver and i know how a clutch works. The clutch works ok ! but i am very saddened with Toyota.

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With any manufacturer's new car warranty (Toyota, Hyundai, Ford, VW, etc), the clutch will only have limited cover, which can be as low as six months.

New car warranties cover manufacturing defects and not wear and tear.

 

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8 hours ago, Johanna Lena said:

My toyota excite had its second birthday last week, it had done nearly 14000 miles and i took it to a toyota garage for a second service! They told me the clutch has got a high bite and quoted me 580 pounds for a new clutch. Not covered under the warranty they said unless when they see its a manufacturing fault. I am a careful driver and i know how a clutch works. The clutch works ok ! but i am very saddened with Toyota.

Clutch bite is high on all Aygos, so wouldn't worry too much. If the worst happens and it does go, then it's only £300 - £350 at a local garage.

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put your handbrake on tightly, select 1st gear and try to move off if your clutch is

working properly the revs will drop and the engine will stall ,if its slipping you will

be able to take your foot of the clutch pedal with the car in gear and the engine wont stall

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