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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    1971 Toyota Crown

    © Gaynor Evans

  2. 1 point
    At junctions and traffic lights, I always set the handbrake and take my foot off the brake. This stops the annoying brake lights upsetting the vehicle behind. If I'm facing downhill, the handbrake needs to be on tighter than pointing uphill or on the level, as I always leave the car in Drive. Selecting Park and then back to Drive to move off is a hassle plus there's a silly flash of the reversing light as you pass through Park to Drive, and you have to re-press the brake pedal too .................. so I leave it in Drive. Going to Neutral and setting the handbrake is simple and quick, as it going from Neutral to Drive to move away as it's only a single move and you can do this without pressing the brake pedal. What is the issue here? Does it matter? What do other Hybrid users do? Mick.
  3. 1 point
    Check service history (if you have any) for what has been done and when. Oil and filter should be changed every year but other things are less often. For example spark plugs might be every 4 or 5 years, and antifreeze every 10 years. I wouldn't necessarily go changing things which are perfectly serviceable. One thing missing from your service list - check/replace drive belt(s).
  4. 1 point
    We were on holiday recently - for 14 days - and on our return the battery of our 2018 Yaris was dead. Dealer said that battery would lose charge if car was not used for 3 days. Claimed that all the systems (like collision warning, etc) were still working even when the car was not is use - parked and locked. I suspect that the "3 days" was an exaggeration. Does anyone have any experience/knowledge of this topic?
  5. 1 point
    My T27 2,0 D4D had same problem... Terrible rattling noise when idling. When I pushed the pedal a little bit, no noise. First I thought that the timing chain has gone bad, but then I listened carefully with rubber hose and noticed that the noise is coming from a/c compressor pulley. When rotating the pulley by hand it came out that there were too much clearance between pulley and that metal plate which is bolted to compressor shaft. Inside the pulley are some rubber dampers and they must have gone bad... I searched this forum for help and found this topic. I watched the video above and had an idea! I extruded some elastic sealant inside the pulley through the metal plate holes (12) and after 24 hrs drying no clearance, no noise. This is temporarily repair, but interesting to see how long it lasts... Hope this will help others with pulley problems...
  6. 1 point
    I've tried all 4 of my Toyota hybrids on ordinary fuels, both from major supermarkets and major companies and also BP Ultimate and Tesco Momentum. No difference on any of them, performance or MPG Never had any fuel systems issues, never needed any magic cleaners or boosters.
  7. 1 point
    Hey Mick, So you're talking about a petrol. Petrols definitely don't have nearly as much difference and petrol engines aren't nearly as sensitive to bad petrol as diesels are to bad diesel. If you buy a new diesel and fill it up with supermarket diesel only, you can pull the intake manifold after a year or two and you'd be disgusted at what's in there. Petrols don't have that problem. I guess that's why there's such a contrast of opinions in this thread.
  8. 1 point
    Up until a couple of years ago, we ran a Fiat 500 Twinair 85bhp. Absolutely super-dooper car and went like a pocket rocket, but the huge two doors were a pain in the wotsit and the boot space wasn't good. Sad to see it go, but it wasn't practical for us. However, I digress ........... sorry. I always fill up with supermarket fuel. Never ever an issue over all the cars and all the mileage. From first owning the 500TA, I monitored the fuel consumption from full tank to full tank so I knew the MPG we were getting etc. I tried Shell RON99 premium for a while and tried to detect an improvement. To be frank, there wasn't a ha'porth of difference. Best smoothest performance improvement we ever got was changing the spark plugs. Mick.
  9. 1 point
    Then I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on this since I've used such products previously and seen them used (not the cheap sTp stuff though) and have seen first-hand the effects, how the engine itself is quieter, the idle is smoother, and acceleration is more responsive. This is on diesels though, and the quality of diesel varies greatly from country to country, and not all countries have access to good stuff. It might be that you can't see any difference since everything in your cars has been working perfectly, but for those in worse areas with no access to good fuel it's only logical that stuff gets fouled up. Heck, I've also seen first-hand what cheap diesel does to the intake manifolds of cars versus premium diesel from Finland, for example.
  10. 1 point
    I know plenty about "the subject" thanks and is exactly why I have NEVER filled up with "the cheapest fuel available"! (and I wouldn't touch a diesel with a barge pole either...) Read up on them (after market fuel additives). Most proper tests show that they have a negligible effect on a well maintained and serviced vehicle. By "negligible", I mean an ongoing "repeatable cost benefit" when you use the stuff regularly. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    The difference can be felt the most by those who regularly fill cheapest fuel available. If you fill premium fuel from reputable brands then such additives don't have nearly as much effect. But to outright say they don't do anything and are snake oil is basically admitting that you don't know enough about the subject. Also, if you suspect that one or more of your diesel injectors are starting to nail, running diesel purge or its fuel additive cousin will make the nailing more pronounced, and so confirming that the noise isn't tappets or bearings inside the engine.
  12. 1 point
    I have also had a few hybrids, 2 Prius, one Yaris and a Lexus CT200. They have all been left for 60 odd days, however, always pulled the fuse that runs the equipment that is live with the ignition off (immobiliser/alarm etc). The cars were left in a locked garage which is integral with my house, so does not get too cold. The 12V batteries have always provided enough power to start the electrics and the traction batteries only lose 1 or 2 bars over that time, so they always started first time too.
  13. 1 point
    My Yaris GRMN has just started after being left for 62 days, not even a flicker from the dashboard, it cranked normally and fired up within 2 seconds. A 12V battery should not discharge within 3 days unless lights or accessories have been left on by accident.
  14. 1 point
    Hi Keith. I think you are right. A fully charged battery should be showing 12.80 volts. If it has been left for a while, say a couple of weeks it should not drop below 12.64 volts. Any readings below this would cause a on going problem especially during any cold weather if and when it arrives. Get your dealer to carry out a voltage resistance drop test, if they cannot do it there are lots of battery sales companies that carry out a free check. Cheers.
  15. 1 point
    If you charge your battery fully with a battery charger .................or go for a drive - in good weather not using electrics much - and make the drive a couple of hours or more - your battery will be fully charged. Test the voltage after switching off and letting the battery relax. Give it maybe an hour before testing the voltage. It's difficult in real everyday use to have a fully charged car battery and generally it doesn't matter. Eventually they fail through constant use or neglect. Just coz a car is brand new, it doesn't mean that the battery is as good as new. There is no substitute for a good strong battery. Mick.
  16. 1 point
    True what you say about load, Mick. One can buy load testers, but for the private motorist a new battery is probably more cost effective. I've just never had a battery that stayed at 13V.
  17. 1 point
    Voltage is only half of it. You need to do a Drop Test to get a better idea. How does the voltage hold up when under load? Just coz it sits at what you think is a good voltage, doesn't mean it's got good regulation. High internal resistance will kill voltage. Aim for 13v on a battery at rest, and you'd be more than likely fine. 12.56v is ok as you've not replenished the battery after a couple of 30min drives. Mick.
  18. 1 point
    Fully charged batteries should sit at 13v or nearly 13v. I reckon you've got a duff battery and need a new one. We had a Fiat500 up until a year or so ago and it had a Stop/Start system. We bought the car out of warranty and I noticed after a while, that the SS system wasn't stopping the engine for the designed full three minutes. I carried out many experiments to prove it. I took the car to three separate independent garages and they all said that the battery was fine ........... even though it would sit at 12.5v. They all, to a man, said that that was a good battery. I knew different, and hoped they would back me up. I paid £100 for a new battery - Stop Start batteries are expensive!! - and the fault was immediately cleared. Trouble is, unless you give the car a good run, the SS system stops being perfect, so I bought a battery charger with a plug connection (not croc clips) to the battery. Each and every time I came home, I would pop the bonnet and connect up the charger on a long lead from the front porch, then lower the bonnet. The job took less than a minute to do, and even quicker to disconnect before driving. The SS system worked perfectly for years, and probably better than when the car was new. The issue really, is that when they build cars, they are parked for months sometimes in a big carpark waiting to be sent out to be sold. They then go to a main dealer by lorry and may sit on the forecourt for weeks before a punter wants to buy the car. It then goes for a pre-delivery inspection, cleaned, battery charged, and then test driven. The battery at that time could well have been flat .......... and that's the worst thing you can do to a battery. If so, from then on, it's on its last legs. Mick.
  19. 1 point
    Sorry I was going by another post and probably misread it. An hours drive should put back what a standard starter motor takes out. So it could be a faulty battery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  20. 1 point
    Toyota hybrids use the 12 volt battery, for things like alarm/central locking, When shut down. When powering on it powers the basic systems The downside is the charging rate is low, maybe you might consider a modern battery charger that you can use while it's in the car. A hybrid car charges at 4amps and if the battery is low it could take 12 hours to charge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  21. 1 point
    Am I correct in assuming that when you press the “start” button the 12v battery only ‘boots’ the computer and the ICE starter motor is subsequently powered by the hybrid battery? if so, then the ‘start’ drain on the 12v battery should be quite small and quickly recovered?
  22. 1 point
    Some journeys are short - about 20 minutes, but most journeys are closer to 1 hour. Let me ask a different question: how long do I need to drive to recover the energy used to start the car?
  23. 1 point
    A battery that is in a good state of health should last over 2 weeks without any problem. Does the car only get used for short journeys? If yes then it might the problem as the battery never gets a full charge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  24. 1 point
    Hmm A battery shouldn't discharge that fast. If a battery only last 3 days, then you have an electrical problem. The only thing that should be drawling power with the car switched off and the doors and boot properly, will be the alarm or remote central locking. That applies to both hybrid and non hybrid cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  25. 1 point
    Speaking of Hybrid Assistant, I'm loving Alessandro's sense of humour today! [emoji6] Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
  26. 1 point
    If you have an android device go to google play and search for "hybrid assistance". Apple may also have it?
  27. 1 point
    I ran 4 hybrids over the last few years, never seen that monitor go below 2 bars and very rarely does it get to full either. Don't stress about it, just let the system look after the battery. If your force it into EV mode, the battery may go lower than usual, but that is a false economy as the engine will then run for longer to get it into normal range. In the end, I just left it in "D", never bothered with "B", "ECO" or "EV" in normal driving. "EV" only used for 20 feet trips into and out of my garage, just to prevent the engine starting for a very short period.
  28. 1 point
    Hi, I realise this is an older thread but I have the same issue - I recently changed the rear discs, pads And calipers on my 2009 Avensis Tourer D4D. It has a manual electric brake (ie, it does not automatically come on when the ignition is switched off), so in order to do this work myself, I simply switched the car ignition off when the handbrake was off, which allowed freewheeling of the rear wheels. I have changed endless brakes over the last 30 years but I'm stuck with the following problem - the 'Check Parking Brake' warning is coming on each and every time I use the EPB. If you turn off the ignition and re turn it on, it will clear the code and allow use of the EPB again, but only once each time. I have tried the OBD hack (12th and 4th pins short) but this does not work, neither does any holding in or pulling out of the EPB button. I took the car to an independent garage who could not clear the code, then I took it to Toyota who also could not clear the code. Instead they told me that the actuator had failed (but they could not tell me what was wrong with it) and that the cost to replace is upwards of £1000. I am not convinced the actuator has failed one bit, as it still works, on and off, albeit only once per ignition switch on. It seems that Toyota do not have a clue about this, other than to simply replace all parts, however, having read several threads on this, it looks like the ECU throws an EPB failure code at the slightest anomaly in the system, whether that be uneven braking, sticking calipers, broken pins, or just because its a cloudy day and it's feeling a bit down. I am at a loss over this, I have checked over my work on replacing the calipers discs and pads and everything works as it should. I have watched the cables pull on both sides as someone else turns the EPB button on and off, and each time both wheels lock up and release as they should. My next move was to completely strip both sides, regrease caliper slides etc, then re-bleed the rear calipers. Can someone PLEASE shed any light on this?? It is too much of a coincidence that the actuator has failed just after I changed the brakes, but no matter what I do, I cannot stop this failure code from showing! I'm determined to fix this without paying £1000+ for an item that I just know is not broken. Anyone pleeeeeaaaase.................!!! Thanks!!! (-:
  29. 1 point
    I'm going to continue to use Neutral as it's the best way. The issue of not charging the battery is a red herring I think, especially round here. The battery is never so low that it would any difference whatsoever for a minute or two at traffic lights. Even if it was an issue, the car would alarm at you! In Drive, the system wants to creep forwards, and in Reverse it wants to go backwards of course. If you are stopped with your foot on the brake, the drive is disconnected even though you are in Drive or Reverse. The trouble is, the stupid designers didn't use the handbrake to disconnect the drive like the footbrake does! This means that if you are stopped in Drive with the handbrake on, the car is STILL trying to move .................. ie wasting energy. Selecting Park disconnects the drive of course, but it's a hassle to select it when stopped and deselect it to drive away. Sitting at a junction or at traffic lights with your foot remaining on the brake is against the UK Highway Code, and also bad car control. Neutral and handbrake is the correct way to do it in a manual car, so I don't see why a hybrid would be any different. The main issue really, is that the car creeps in Drive so you have to positively stop it. Mick.
  30. 1 point
    How to Switch on power without engine starting hybrid in garage
  31. 1 point
    The cars only charge in D, R and P and so if the battery level is low and the engine is running, then you must be in one of said 'gears'. If the battery level is high and the engine is running, then it is probably just trying to keep warm, as it were, so using N is probably OK, but not efficient. If you are in D with the handbrake on, you are wasting energy.
  32. 1 point
    Don't put you foot on the brake pedal when pressing the start button if I remember correctly. I think there are 2 levels of "on" depending on how many times you push the button. You will be discharging the small 12V battery in this mode, not advisable for anything more than very short periods.
  33. 1 point
    If you get it right, the GRMN will beat all the other models off the line and after that, no contest. It's also remarkably cheap to insure, only £211 with AVIVA. That's for a 59 year old male, full NCD and 5000 miles a year.
  34. 1 point
    I can understand this - I have to have 2 cars for the same affect, one being an old school V8 convertible - good for country lanes and setting off car alarms in multi-storey car parks. Regarding the carwow drag races, I would like to see all the Yaris options in one: petrol, diesel, hybrid and GRMN. My guess would be the hybrid would get to 50 yards first and then the GRMN zooms past to win. Chuck in a Zoe and BMW i3 to add to the mix.
  35. 1 point
    It's perfectly fine as a daily driver, fun on winding country roads and overtaking is much easier than in my previous hybrids. I am actually enjoying have 3 pedals for the first time in 23 years. Seats are very comfy too for my 59 year old backside.
  36. 1 point
    What are cars like this actually for? Absolutely pointless on public roads, and can only be used effectively on a track. If you have one, what do you do with it when not racing? Sorry, Mick.
  37. 1 point
    I have one, it's fun and very fast. There are a couple to be had as mentioned above.
  38. 1 point
    I believe that the UK allocation is sold out - 1 of the members here has 1.
  39. 1 point
    Had my 1.33 for 8 years now, main dealer serviced throughout. The first few years saw no oil consumption, and I used to ask what oil was used and was told 5-30 grade. I accepted it even though the 1.33 is supposed to use 0-20. Then a few years ago the oil consumption increased markedly, to the point of adding around 1 to 1.25 litres in 6000 miles. Again I asked what oil was being used and was now told only 0-20 oil was to be used, nothing else would do. I specifically asked whether switching to a 5-30 would benefit oil consumption and the answer was a definite no, and that 0-20 was the only oil to be used. Last year was the worst, I was adding oil after only a few months of it being serviced, the level being around a third of the way between min and max. This year and I was out of the 7 year service plan and so paid for a Gold service. The invoice states clearly that 5-30 synthetic has been used. The fill was a generous one, probably 10% over the max mark but I have to say that in around 2000 miles the level doesn't seem to have noticeably altered. At the end of the day you just don't know what is used. Years ago when I had the TSport I asked for synthetic oil to be used on its first service. The invoice said semi synth although the service desk scrawled across it in biro saying synthetic was used when I came to pay the bill. So you just don't know what goes on and what goes in.
  40. 1 point
    Thanks so much for your reply, I guess it's my mistake thinking Bluetooth comes as standard😶. Nevermind. I was wanting to stream music as well as answer calls - Halford quoted £250 on top of the cost of the stereo which seems expensive to me. They said it was something to do with needing special leads? I think I would prefer an integrated Bluetooth stereo fitted so if there is anyone who has any experience of doing this that would help. However, the Sat Nav you showed me looks like a great fall back plan if it will be too tricky so thanks for putting me on to that.
  41. 1 point
    Hi Kathryn and welcome to the board. I've had a look on Auto Trader at all the Aygo Black models on there and they all come with the standard Aygo stereo. Some other models in the range do have a bluetooth stereo which looks a bit different, like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Aygo-2010-2013-Radio-CD-Player-MP3-BLUETOOTH-/172920478865 Bluetooth is mentioned in my manual as well but I have the stereo, in my "Fire" which is the same as the one that you have fitted. As for replacing it, well it's case of what are you replacing it with and how much do you want to spend? Some Folk spend a fortune on updating their car stereo systems but if Halfords (Who, I have to admit, aren't the cheapest) are quoting £250 for a fitted stereo, then if the stereo that you are looking at is around the £200-£210 mark, plus fitting at about £40, then it's not too bad. I don't think that the Toyota Bluetooth Stereo ( I think it's made by Pioneer) is a straight fit, connections wise, into our Aygos but I might be wrong on that, so don't quote me!! You can get Bluetooth via various Sat Navs, from cheap Chinese ones which are sometimes pretty good, up to Tom Toms and Garmins. If you are thinking of getting a Sat Nav then for around the £130 mark, you could get a Garmin like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-DriveSmart-51LMT-S-Lifetime-Updates/dp/B01MYAXRPE/ref=sr_1_29?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525169299&sr=1-29&keywords=garmin+sat+nav All you would have to do is attach it to your screen and plug it into your 12v supply/cigarette lighter socket.....No worries or costs about fitting. I hope that helps, all the best! Edit: P.S. I am guessing that you want Bluetooth to answer your phone. If you want it to get music from your phone then a cheaper option would be just to connect your phone to the "AUX" socket on the stereo that you already have with a lead. I know that's not as tidy but it might save you a few Bob!! Anyway, tell us how you get on.
  42. 1 point
    Special tnx to Devon Aygo! You have right! This connector was rusty and looks very bad. I change connector with new and after 3.75 euro and 40 minutes left in garage, all working nice! Tnx mate!
  43. 1 point
    Do you have a tow bar fitted as the electric socket for the tow bar usually contains a switch to disable the cars rear fog light when a trailer is fitted and the small switch is the socket is common for failing.
  44. 1 point
    If the clutch is the original one, then best to just get it changed. Adjusting the linkage is unlikely to help, as the earlier clutches on Aygos are notorious for having problems. Later models changed to a beefier 190mm clutch pressure plate, whereas earlier cars had an inferior manufactured 180mm plate. IIRC, the clutch change occured late 2008.
  45. 1 point
    My SR180 at sunset
  46. 1 point
    How to reset your Auto electric window function. Auhor: GIDDLEPIN If, like me, you let the wife use your beloved Auris to pop down to the post box when the weather's freezing and, if like my wife yours decides to wind the window down to clear the ice off (?????)... and, if like mine, your window is frozen solid and it stops the auto function working and causes the auto light on the switch to flash, here's the procedure to reprogramme the auto wind unit. Simply turn the ignition on, wind the window all the way to the bottom and hold the switch down for at least ten seconds. Then wind it all the way back up again and hold the switch for another ten seconds and voila, the system's reset!
  47. 1 point
    Ok, problem solved. The Auris ICON came with a jack, wheel brace, liquid goo sealer and mini compressor. There's space for a FS Steel spare so I've purchased this: http://www.oponeo.co.uk/steel-wheel/alcar-kfz-9683 £42, although now seems to have changed to £51, delivered so all looks promising. The only decision now is do I go for budget or mid range tyre as the spare as it'll only be used in emergencies so probably sit in the car for the duration of ownership. If I hit any obstacles I'll update the same. Thanks for the input, it's appreciated.
  48. 1 point
    It can be done via techstream software and a laptop. You can also tone down the beeps for the door open warning and the key in ignition one.
  49. 1 point
    Ok, after long time i had to get back to this and i made it. I managed to install cruise control on the rolla. I used the standart cc options of the car. I'll make a photo tutorial soon. Is anyone interested?
  50. 1 point
    Ive just realised ive never posted this up on this forum so here it is; I decided that I wanted to convert my tail lamps on my compressor to give the JDM look, after seeing Noedel's conversion on the TOC a year so ago. I loved the look it gave to the rear end of the car at night and it looked relatively simple to do. What I didn't like about Noedel's conversion was the fact you had to disable the rear fog light and every year you would have to return the lights back to standard to pass a MOT. As I've messed with car lighting wiring looms of practically every car I've owned, I quickly hatched a plan of "how to do it" in my head. This method allows you to have; 4 sidelights 4 brake lights 2 fog lights displayed in the inner oem fog light area. There will be no unwanted fog light symbol coming up on the dash everytime you brake, nor will all the lights light up when you turn the rear fog on. This way makes all the lights work as it should and it will have no problems going through an MOT like this :) Heres a video of the lights working to give you a idea on how it will look ;) Right first up, parts that you will require; - 2 380 Brake light bulbs - 4 5amp diodes - Some very small screws + screwdriver - 1.5mm/8mm drill bit + drill - Soldering iron and solder - A wiring connector from a scrapped Toyota (If you'd like two rear fog lights) - Rotary tool with attachments - 3m of 1.0mm 16A car wiring loom grade wire - A selection of heat shrink in various sizes - Some sharp side snips - 4 very small electrical o ring connectors I shall start with the drivers tail lamp. First; - Remove the carpet cover in the boot - Remove the white wiring connector on the top nut, it just pulls off - Remove the 3x 10mm nuts - Pull the tail light off the car and remove the connector by pushing in the tab. - Remove the inner light panel from the light assembly by pushing the two black tabs revealing this: The left bulb here is missing - this is the fog light one to be modified. In the fog light slot there is a metal tab which connects to the bottom of the bulb. As we will be using a 2 point bulb we need to remove this. So I used a pair of side snips to cut the tab at the top Using a flat head screw driver lift the tap up to allow the whole piece to simply lift out of the bulb slot. Then push the tab flat again once its removed, leaving you with this cut out bit of metal ;) Drill a 8mm hole in the back of the bulb holder for the new wires to pass through. Once that is done, take both of your 380 bulbs and solder a 10cm piece of wire to each of the connectors to the bottom of the bulb One will be the "high/brightest" connection and one will be the "low/dimmest" connection. I used a power probe to find out which was which. You can fit the circuit board back on the car and test each wire to see which is which if you do not have one of these :) Now you need to solder in a diode to the circuit board, please make sure you solder this in the correct way and to the correct metal paths as I have it shown here. The metal paths need to be either sanded or slightly ground down as they are galvanised and if you don't do this the solder wont stick very well. I used a rotary tool with a small grinding stone to do this as well, I was being lazy Next up you need to cut off the two plastic heads on the circuit board. I did this with a cutting disc on the rotary tool again to give it a clean finish. I've then drilled a 1.5mm hole into the plastic below to allow me to fit a very small self tapping screw into it. I've marked on this photo where I have done this and also which one is for either the high/low bulb wires go onto. Once your happy with your lengths of wire and that they go to the right place (you can always fit the circuit board back onto the car and test which one is high or low) you now need to fit two small ring connectors to the bulb wires. Again I soldered these in and heat shrank them to aid conductivity and protect against short circuits. The tiny self tapping screws I used And the drivers side unit all complete and ready to go :) The passenger side is just a reversed copy of the drivers side, so copy exactly what you did to the drivers side. ill just put the pictures up for a reference. And completed Even though there is a fog light bulb holder on the passenger side tail lamp, the hole for the bulb to access it is not cut out. I used a engravement attachment on the rotary tool as the outline for this hole is already there. All i did was "engrave" this mark deeper and deeper until it cut through. I then used a small sand paper wheel on the rotary tool to clean up the edges and you'll have something that looks like this :) There will be some bits that fall into the light housing itself, you can use a combination of a straw attached to a hover to remove these. If you cant get it all out that way, like i couldn't, I ended up swilling out the light 5-6 times with loads of water and leaving it to dry on a radiator. (BOTH SINGLE/DOUBLE FOG LIGHT VERSIONS) To the drivers side tail lamp connector. The red wire with silver dots is the fog light wire. Remove the electrical tape further up the wiring loom to give some more access. About half way up this photo above you will need to snip the fog light wire (red with silver dots) IF YOU ONLY WANT A SINGLE DRIVERS SIDE FOG LIGHT: Solder in a diode like shown and heat shrink the wire Rewrap the wires in electrical tape and refit the lights back onto the car. Stand back and enjoy the JDM look your tail lights now have :good: IF YOU WANT DOUBLE FOG LIGHTS: Take an electrical connector you've cut from a scrapped toyota. This one below happens to be a CD player connector out of a avensis, which had lying around from when i converted my E11 tail lights (I've already chopped most of it up as you can see ) And cut out a connector pin Solder in a diode noting which way I have it facing and add a good length of wire to it - Enough to travel from the left tail lamp to the right. Then heat shrink the connection Go to the passenger side tail lamp connector and you will notice that one of the six pins on the connector is missing (3rd from top) This is where the fog light wire would normally run. You need to pop open the little clip on the connector using a small flat head screwdriver and feed the connector pin into the slot. Make sure its the right way around!! You will feel it clip into place and then all you have to do is secure it back into place with the original clip :) I then wrapped some electrical tape around the wires at the connector end to make them all hold together securely. Remove the boot rubber seal from around the boot carpet and bottom trim. Remove the two 10mm bolts off the lower boot plastic trim and pop it off Pop the carpet out for some room at the sides of the lights - these are held in with one body trim clip each side. Feed the wire that you've added to the passenger light connector to the drivers side connector. I tapped it in at various places to the original wiring loom that runs along this panel to make sure it doesn't get trapped or caught on anything. Once at the drivers side tail lamp connector, you need to solder in a diode with the wire located as shown! The extra fog light wire must be above the diode (opposite side to the connector) otherwise you will over load the diode. Heat shrink the wire and diode Wrap the wires back up with electrical tape. Refit everything back onto the car, stand back and enjoy the JDM looking tail lights :good: If anyone is unsure of any part of this guide or feels like i haven't explained parts in enough detail - let me know and ill try to improve on it :)

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