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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Ever since I have owned a car, I have done my own oil service. This is the first time I have done an oil change with my current car. It was last done July 2015 before I owned the car. I did some research and bought the oil filter removal tool - The other problem was getting the correct oil (0w-20) which is quite expensive. I bought my oil from Euro car parts at £30 plus the oil filter. My earlier post below mentions the "wrong" grade by some of the major sellers. My drive is raised about 1.5ft above the ground level of my house, so I can access the under side without using ramps or jacks and stands. The under tray hatch is secured by three push fasteners - same as on the engine covering. Just push the centre of the fastener in, then pull the the outer to remove. Very easy. Old filter and gasket. Oil filter housing with new gasket plus the new oil. Sump plug before draining. Location of the oil filter under the car. Note the additional new fibre washer on the sump plug. The new filter also came with a smaller plastic attachment and seal for a different type of fitting. These were not needed. When everything was replaced, tightened and checked again, I reset the fasteners by pushing the centres out, then placing them with position after closing the under tray hatch. Press the centres home to secure the fasteners. Then refill the engine with the new oil. The key point is, Toyota saw fit to add the hatch to the under tray, instead of having to remove the whole lot, like other cars. That is a major time saving point! The only thing I may need to do in the future is the auxiliary belt. When I last checked it, the belt was fine. Probably get a spare.
  2. 1 point
    REF..... code P264A - 'A' Rocker Arm Actuator Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1 I have a Toyota auris tr valvematic 2011 plate 64K on the clock… with the above fault code....... Does NOT show up all the time, it’s very intermediate however it does seem to be more active once the engine is up and running and hot (normal running temp) I'd really appreciate ANY advice ANYONE could tell me to point me in the right direction to fix this poxy problem. I’ve done huge amount of homework on this issue sadly NO WHERE can i find a definitive explanation what the hell a * rocker arm actuator * is….. Or images of the part that could be a fault, let alone the !Removed! location of it on the engine. I’ve checked many things the car did have an oil change over 90 days ago ( with the correct oil ) However It making me think it’s something to do with the Oil its self after reading some sites…. Over filled / under filled / wrong oil ? I have removed 1L of oil so the car has now…… half a filled sump….. On the dip stick. I have remove both Camshaft oil timing controls and cleaned them (they won’t dirty anyway) I am now TOTALLY at a loss …….What the hell is making the car do this…. let alone what a * rocker arm actuator * is….. Or its location of it on the engine so I could change it. HELP !!!!!! 🙄😂😂
  3. 1 point
    After being a very happy (and loyal) Prius owner for near on 8 years (Gen3 and Gen4), I have retired now and have decided to become a full EV car owner which will meet my requirements for 95% of the time (I do very low mileage these days and I've only clocked up 9000 miles on my Gen 4 Prius). Unfortunately, it looks like Toyota is possibly 2-3 years away from releasing their first all electric vehicles, so I have placed an order for a new 40kHz Nissan Leaf. There is currently a 5 month lead-in time due to their popularity. I'd like to thank everyone on this forum for your help and support. I hope you found my input useful too.
  4. 1 point
    A new episode of #Thecarinajourney has just gone live on my #Youtube channel, I'd really appreciate some views and feedback, many thanks.
  5. 1 point
    This will be a long post I'm having fuel consumption issueI I'm 99% sure its because of the DPF. I used to get over 400 miles to a tank. Now i'm struggling to get 340/50 miles now.. I shouln't be getting 33/34 mpg on this car. I fitted a new 5th injector the other day in the hopes the original one was possibly leaking, causing the increased consumption and that it may not be able to get the DPF hot enough. I thought this because the lambda sensor reads a dip whilst driving along with a reduction on the MPG readout from 44mpg to 29 ish during this period. Tell tale of a DPF regen. When I manually carry out a DPF regen it never seemed to get hot enough as exhaust only stays around 500/550 Celsius. Now, looking at the image below. Looking at the second from the top graph you can see a jump towards the end. That's the ECU carrying out a DPF Regen to saying completed. Now straight after that, looking at the orange line in the middle. That's the lambda sensor. It's used for feedback during regeneration. As you can see, towards the end AFTER the ECU has completed the regeneration, it starts carrying out, another regeneration, or something..? See how the lambda sensor reading dips every so often. That's a tell tale sign the DPF is regenerating. Also note how the exhaust temperature stays really high. Looking at the second image is after I fitted the new 5th Injector. (genuine Denso etc). Before fitting the new injector the exhaust temperature wouldn't as high as it does now with the new one. You can see how it peaks at 671 degrees Celsius during regeneration, which is more than hot enough to burn off the soot, which burns at around 600 degrees. When I carried out a manual regeneration it would never get this hot. With the new injector it does now. So that's good! The Fuel Addition feedback value is also lower which is also better according to Toyotas documents (1.32 vs 1.45). I can't understand what the car is doing. I can easily achieve 38-41mpg in TOWN! where on the motorway, cruise set the 70mph I get 34/35mpg. Every-time I drive the car, the DPF starts doing a mild regeneration of sorts. Looking at the last image you can see a dip in the Lambda sensor every so often, and look how high the exhaust temperature is.. It shouldn't be this high whilst cruising and NOT carrying out a Regeneration.. Look on the left hand side for example.. The DPF soot and sulphur regen are BOTH on standby... The pressure sensor reads it as unblocked. On another data value, "DPF NO ACTIVATE" IS active. Meaning its not allowing it to regenerate yet it keeps squirting fuel into the exhaust to burn... something?! I'm going to try another ECU and see where that gets me.
  6. 1 point
    Hello, hope someone can help please. I'm in urgent need for the following parts for a TOYOTA CARINA 1971 TA12. Any help would be very much appreciated!! Can I get parts from another Toyota which will fit? Dash Rubber (the foam which sits just below the windscreen) Windscreen rubber (do i need inner and outer chrome trip as well?) Rear left light lens Fuel Filter Wiper washer bottle pump + hose Radiator + hoses Track rod ends (for steering tracking x2) Ignition coil distributor contact points Seatbelts Condensor 4x spark plugs and leads RHD Headlights (sealed beam)
  7. 1 point
    IMO Hybrids and PHVs are a safe island where lots of people are gathering at the moment.
  8. 1 point
    My dealer in Birmingham just called to say that an update would be chargeable and that there is no update since 1520 for my car! I've told him to go back and check - because I'm not going to pay them to update the software for something that should be working right. Initially he said to me that it was something I could update through MyToyota app! Pulling my hair out here.
  9. 1 point
    Your answer is correct.I experienced error U011B-Lost communication with Rocker arm control module A.This is after doing a reverse polarity during jump-starting.I fixed the broken fuses and bought a used valvematic controller for Ksh12,000($120).It cleared the error and the car is all good now.Before buying anything,do proper troubleshooting to ascertain where the issue is
  10. 1 point
    A bit of googling suggests, not unreasonably, that all new cars have tyres that are grossly overinflated from 5he factory, as a) they don’t know what car they’re going on to and b) said car may be sat for months in a parking lot and overinflation prevents flat spotting of the tyre. So, responsibility of the dealership to check and adjust prior to handover to customer. I’ll be interested to find out how the dealership addresses the issue.
  11. 1 point
    After reading all the posts on this I have fitted a Samsung smarthings motion sensor in the car. this connects to the smart hub in the house. if the car is moved it will turn on the lights at the front of the house and the bedroom light (set to blue so I know what the problem is). If this happens at night I will just open the bedroom window and throw the wife at them. then they will be sorry
  12. 1 point
    I've done some research and calculation: the Ziex ZE914 Ecorun have a high rolling resistance and replacing them with almost every premium tyre will save fuel between 0.15 and 0.5 l/100km for an average of 15% city, 15% country roads and 70% highway. Continental PremiumContact 6 are a great candidate, matching great dry and wet handling and breaking distances, resistance to aquaplaning with riding comfort and low rolling resistance (abut 20% less than the Falken's).
  13. 1 point
    I've just taken delivery of a 2019 Corolla Design 1.8 Hybrid TRK. TRK indeed! The dealer suggested that if I couldn't use the useless tyre repair kit, I instead use the breakdown cover if I have a puncture but in rural Scotland that could be a very long wait for a repair. I was quoted silly money from the dealer for a space saver steel wheel so I found the wheel geometry somewhere and it's the same as an Auris Space saver. So I purchased the Auris one and it fits both the wheel studs and under the boot floor. I placed the order on Friday at 4pm and delivered via DHL the following Tuesday. Purchased from The Wheel Shop. https://www.thewheelshop.co.uk/toyota-auris-space-saver-spare-wheel-17-and-tool-kit.html Don't forget you'll need the retaining bolt.
  14. 1 point
    Ok, just had a chat with Toyota GB and my local (very knowledgeable seemingly) technician at my local dealer to try and get a definitive answer to this question. In the case of the Yaris Hybrid (and I'm sure probably all Toyota Hybrids), in addition to regenerative braking it also has EBD (Electronic Brake Distribution) meaning that the mechanical brake force on any given wheel at any given moment is totally variable controlled by the ECU and driving conditions at the time. So, I asked the question "after regenerative braking and thinking about the transition to the mechanical braking system, could you say that the subsequent further brake force is biased in any way between the front and rear axles?" and the answer was "No, it will be constantly variable across all 4 wheels whilst maintaining the car's balance". I hope this helps.
  15. 1 point
    Finally got a test driver yesterday, sadly only the Design version.. but was impressed by the build quality. For me, it is between the Camry Excel and Lexus ES .... to be honest, not a lot in it. Interesting the dealer advised their target market is VW & Skoda, but they're taking customers from Lexus, which wasn't the plan ! There are some obviously differences... Price ... about 20% when discounts taken into account... also only 4.9% on the Camry, but 5.9% on ES Camry is quiet, but Lexus more so.. harder to notice the engine and road noise in the Lexus, but not sure if enough to make a difference to me decision. The touch screen in the Toyota is much better than the awful mouse pad in the Lexus.. much easier to use... otherwise both seemed to have very similar controls. Some of the features worked better in the Lexus (lane departure was just a warning alarm in the Camry, but actively adjusted the steering in the ES. Camry looked like a bigger boot, but possibly an optical illusion. Leather seats in Camry are clearly lower grade, but were perfectly fine... I'd say similar to what you see in a BMW/Merc (Lexus is way ahead of the German brands in that respect) Doors are equally massive on both ... this is my biggest worry...the car is very wide and not sure how it will work in a supermarket car park... never mind the reach to close the door... overall very impressed ... need a long think about the price difference and small variation in quality.
  16. 1 point
    That would be the Dracula model, limited edition, made in Transilvania, delivery after midnight 🤣
  17. 1 point
    Long delivery times - I read recently that with the growth in demand for electric/hybrid vehicles the demand for metals that go into the batteries is outstripping supply. Some sources (countries) of these metals are hiking prices a lot. That could cause delays in vehicle supplies. The only car Toyota produces in the UK, (AFAIK) is the Corolla. Engines made in Deeside, North Wales, and assembly at Burnaston, Derbyshire.
  18. 1 point
    You have to wonder how all the endless tests went - "I've banged my head" "Sorry sir, you got in wrong" "I don't have that on my current car" "It's progress" . B
  19. 1 point
    No, measuring from the centre point of the wheel to the outer edge, the rim has ½ inch less and the tyre 11.25mm more. That ½ inch of rubber instead of steel still makes a difference tho. If you were to measure the diameter of the complete wheel/rim set up it would be: On a 225/40/18 setup - tyre sidewall height 90, plus wheel diameter 18", plus tyre sidewall height at the other side 90. Total 25.1 inches. 804 revs/mile. On a 225/45/17 setup - tyre sidewall height 101.25, plus wheel diameter 17", plus tyre sidewall height at the other side 101.25. Total 25 inches. 808 revs/mile.
  20. 1 point
    Not surprised that HJ likes it to be honest - think the quote about appealing to those that don’t care what others think and want 400k mileage sits with me quite well- my LS400 is on nearly 300k and is not exactly something that impresses others which suits me just fine.
  21. 1 point
    I collected the car last weekend. Now it is as good as new with the new inverter. I was told by a service rep that the inverter is like a light bulb - it can burn out after a certain time. For me this is a slight exaggeration. It is not like a fuse that is easy and cheap to replace. FYI - I did not write that the cause of the inverter failure was the clogged hybrid battery air duct. They told me that they found it like that. But if you think about it, it could have contributed to the hybrid system overheating and the inverter cooling was not sufficient. I am still baffled that this service job (i.e. cleaning the rear cooling fan and air duct) is not offered by Toyota as part of any service. To prevent this is in the future, I was told to keep hoovering the car and keep the interior clean. I got a standard 12-month warranty for the replaced parts. Let's hope this won't ever happen again to me.
  22. 1 point
    Something it’s not right here, already mentioned twice by other members . Two different problems are mixed together. Clogged battery cooling fan(located on the rear) and faulty inverter (located on top of the the gears, engine compartment). One has nothing to do with the other, even the battery fan is completely dead only can cause overheating on traction battery. And if inverter overeats can get damaged internally without any additional damage caused to the battery. The question is ., if the dealer technician didn’t explained properly or the customer did not understood the explanation about the problem with his car. The inverter might had been overheated due to the pump failure, but if the car hasn’t been driven long after that , the inverter may only needed a new pump. Same for the rear battery, may need just cleaning of the fan and that’s all. And here comes whether the dealer are honest and want to help or just see an opportunity to rip off the client who is under pressure in situations like that. And reading this post from Los Angeles times seems like people gets problems after software update done as part of the ongoing recall. , what is going on with Toyota .
  23. 1 point
    This is the point I was making. This sounds as if the diagnosis has been misunderstood by the customer service personnel, and then given to you. There is the potential for an (accidentally???) inflated bill being drawn up here unless the exact nature of the fault is clearly defined beforehand. The fan mentioned is at the back of the car, the inverter is at the front, they are connected electrically, but, just to repeat, I've not heard of one damaging the other, so far anyway. But, 'There's always a First time for everything' etc. etc. I don't think that you are being punished for not having a full Toyota service history, but Toyota UK might have offered to offset some of the bill if you had got all the services done by them, not least because this is an unusual fault and this part is not a 'wear and tear' item, but their goodwill gesture is not by any means certain at all. If it's of any consolation, the inverter module could be said to be taking on the role of the clutch (as well as lots of other functions) in a conventional car (this is not quite correct, there is no clutch in the HSD transmission etc. etc.). A bill of £1300 for a dealer clutch replacement for a conventional car is not unrealistic. Excuse the cheekiness of the suggestion; if and when the repair does go ahead, I would be pleased to collect the defective parts from you to see if anything can be learned by taking them apart and inspecting for wear or damage. I can quite understand that you might not wish to do this and it might be impractical. For what it's worth, under European consumer law, if a major fault develops within 6 years of original sale, it is viewed as being not fit for the purpose sold. If your car is (just) new enough you might have some recourse there. It is not a commonly used course of action.
  24. 1 point
    Just as background information:- The cooling fan mentioned (that fills with dirt and hair) is fitted under the rear seat, on the left hand side, close to the back door. From what I've read of other people's experience, when the battery cools down after an overheat/error light display (this is the traction battery fan, not the inverter), the problem goes away until the battery gets hot again, but this won't happen if the vent grille has been cleared. To date, I have not heard of any lasting damage caused by this. The repair is simple and takes a few minutes. The fan doesn't seem to fail. It is made in Japan. I always understood that there is only one inverter (could there be a small secondary one next to the traction battery to keep the 12v battery charged - but I assumed that was integral to the main one under the bonnet). That lives under the bonnet, on the r/h side when viewed from the front of the car, it's a big, flat, aluminium casting with orange cables running into it. This has no fan. It has an electric water pump that runs continuously when the car is in a 'ready' state. It uses a conventional radiator at the front of the car to keep cool. If the water pump fails (this can happen at higher mileages, say, beyond 120,000+ miles), then this can ruin the inverter as it overheats, but not always. The pump is straightforward to replace, I believe, and is probably £250-300 for the part, perhaps someone knows for sure. The inverter is a very expensive part, that is the part/price mentioned by the original poster. I don't believe fitting is very difficult for this. Dirt and hair does not have any affect on this item - there is no service requirement, apart from changing the coolant. If I remember correctly, this is done after 10 years, I would have to look it up to be sure. Your fault sounds like the first one, but the diagnosis sounds like the second one. If it were me, I would want to get this clarified (a lot!) before the repair was started. I have no recollection of anyone having the first problem causing the second, but then I'm just an owner/occasional driver. Perhaps someone else knows more....?
  25. 1 point
    I was driving on a busy motorway around London on a hot day and while accelerating, I got the same "Check Hybrid System" message that Zetor mentioned. The car entered fail-safe mode (reduced power, petrol engine higher-pitched sound only) and I was lucky enough to reach a nearby Toyota Dealer. I left my car there and then they diagnosed it a couple of days later and said that the inverter failed and needs to be replaced. They found a lot of dirt and hair in the hybrid cooling fan which could have caused the overheating and failing of the inverter. I have been quoted around £1,500 (parts and labour). Having very limited options because the car is far from my home and I want to get it back after a week, I accepted it. However, after all this my trust in Toyota's reliability and honesty took a hit. I had a hybrid health check at my local Toyota dealership done last September to make sure that the hybrid system works all right. But it was only a computer diagnostic check with everything green, no physical checks of the system. Why did not they offer any Hybrid Service which would have cleaned the hybrid cooling fan? Why did not they let me know the risks of overheating? My Auris has been recalled for a software update earlier this year. https://news.sky.com/story/more-than-55-000-hybrids-recalled-by-toyota-in-uk-11517888 I complied with it and had the car fixed. Otherwise my car might not have entered fail-safe mode when this overheating fault happened. I feel like I am paying for something which could have been prevented easily. I have re-read the Toyota site again about Hybrid maintenance but it still says this: "Hybrid vehicles contain highly advanced technology, but that doesn’t make them more expensive to maintain. As with all our vehicles, regular Toyota maintenance is key. Hybrid engines need regular oil changes but no special servicing is required for the hybrid car battery or hybrid system itself." I feel like I am being scammed. Have you had anything like this happened to you before? What can I do in this case?
  26. 1 point
    Yes, Toyota hybrid synergy drive ( now called “self charging hybrid”) is simpler than conventional petrol or diesel drive trains, however hybrids from other manufacturers like Vw, Mercedes BMW etc ., their hybrid drive trains are more complicated, and here is why people love Toyota- Lexus hybrids, well that is the point of a hybrid car: 1. Reliability 2. Efficiency 3. Less emissions and less noise pollution. Please refer to YouTube videos plenty of info about Toyota hybrid drive trains
  27. 1 point
    Most modern cars (as opposed to SUVs) are getting lower - it helps the aerodynamics so helps fuel economy/emissions.
  28. 1 point
    I have this exact issue! Did you ever find out what it was?
  29. 1 point
    Toyo Tyres I've had on my 107 have been good. I've tried the Yokohama BluEarth ones, they're not particularly good in the wet which surprised me. If I could justify the cost, then I'd go with the Continentals. But Toyo to me are good for these cars.
  30. 1 point
    Depends which level of Gap insurance you look at. For example, discounting the first year new car replacement (which is usually operative if one is the first owner - thus removing pre-reg cars from this clause), if a car is written off, one will receive somewhere between trade value and retail value as settlement. Insurers won't pay full retail value. One option of Gap, is return to invoice, where if the car is written off, the Gap insurance pays out the difference between the car insurance settlement and the invoice value of the car when purchased. Choice is yours.
  31. 1 point
    Like everything else, range will be improved, Hydrogen is here in the UK and more stations are planned. The Police are taking Mirai because they need to reduce their carbon footprint in London, EV are no good to them, the cars are hot swapped and cannot wait for charging to take place. When the supermarkets can see an opportunity to MAKE and sell Hydrogen AND make money they will be on it, then you will see production expand. Toyota have released all the patents for fuel cell technology so it can be expanded and improved, it is here, it is not going away. I for one am quite excited by it...can you tell? lol as I was with Hybrid in 1997, look where that is now
  32. 1 point
    Toyota have far from lost sight of the future, they are at the forefront of technology, just not what everyone else is doing. The Toyota mantra for some 20 odd years has been to produce cars with zero emissions, but at that time, the only way forward was Hybrid for which they are now mainstream. I was lucky enough to talk to the UK chap in charge of the Mirai Hydrogen project, what an exciting future that is. Imagine being a fuel station owner now, having to buy your fuel from a refinery and paying the going rate. Roll on a few years (available now but not mainstream) and you will find your local petrol station making their own Hydrogen on site. Not tied to any fuel manufacturer, making your own fuel from electricity and water, now that truly is the future, and it's not far away either, all we need is the vehicles to be built at much lower costs, the fuel stations are coming, more and more added each year. When we have cars buses and lorries on Hydrogen it will take off massively, the only trouble then is taxation, there is currently no tax on zero emissions, imagine what will happen when zero emission vehicles become the mainstream?
  33. 1 point
    Hi Paul, I've been thinking the same! I'm retired & do just over 9,000 miles like you these days. I'm very interested in an EV & I guess the Nissan Leaf with the larger battery would suite my purposes, admirably. I've always appreciated the reliability of my Toyotas & the Gen 4 Prius Excel I've had for the last couple of years, has been a great motor. However, how short sighted could Toyota be not to realise that EVs really are the future. Even if they decide to produce EVs in the future, they're so far behind the competition, even in Japan, that it's hard to see that they could compete now. Shame really because I've always been impressed with the build quality & excellent reliability of the Toyota marque, that it does make me wonder who the hell has made what potentially is a bad decision not to invest in EVs much earlier, when it was blatantly obvious that that was going to be the future?
  34. 1 point
    Hi Folks - does anyone know the name of the part pictured below? It is attached to the fuel pump.By disconnecting it my car no longer cuts out and runs smoothly but when it is re connected the car will cut out after less than a mile. If I keep driving with it plugged out will it do any harm?
  35. 1 point
    Does your car creep on its own when releasing the brake pedal and without pressing the throttle? if no then your transmission needs reinitialising
  36. 1 point
    love it ,!!!!!!!!!!! Im tiding a 1980 hiace at the moment ,they dnt seem to be a very chatty bunch on here, trim bits for my van are hard to come by .but totally love your motor well done ;)
  37. 1 point
    The OP was last on the forum in September 2010 - so I doubt you will receive a response ..........
  38. 1 point
    Hi, Remapping is now available for these denso ECU's!, After reading online that I couldn't get my engine remapped, I almost gave up & considered buying a tuning box. I found a tuning company that said they could remap my ECU, so I got my 2008 Auris 2.0 D4D remapped & I am very impressed with result. My car is now pushing 170 bhp & has 380nm of torque, almost as much as a 2.2 lump! :)
  39. 1 point
    Hi Just an update - sorry for late reply. Had the valve fitted and new software updated - whilst it did start OK, I am not 100% sure its made much difference as I think there is still a slight bit of hesitance - only time will tell. The dealer gave me a certificate which showed the old and new software version - can anyone confirm that either 1) the software that has been put on is the latest, or 2) whether or not the old software had in fact been updated at some point? Old Software - 30245400 New Software - 302V0000 I'm sure that you need at least software 302V0000 for the increased fuel pressure, but just wondered whether my old one was in fact old, or whether ive done a backwards step! Thanks all
  40. 1 point
    thanks mikesh for helping out. but i am sure it is not a loose spark plug. I did change my spark plug recently and the sound is always here. I have attached some new recordings in which you can hear the sound Much better than before !.. you will definitely hear something strange now ! Don't tell me it is nothing :)! I have compiled these recordings over several weeks of investigation. LINK:https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n04pib5mastixcq/AABV6ppJcICPRuW3EV86o0Zba?dl=0 Note: the sound is NOT big at all - only 400 kilobytes total (so less than 1 megabyte). therefore you can safety download all four. Thank you for listening to it and trying to help out !
  41. 1 point
    I asked my local dealer but they said they couldn't fit me one and recommended me a place further down the road.
  42. 1 point
    It does not have an alarm. It has an immobilizer which stops the car being started unless the correct (ie one of the ones supplied with the car) key is used (and stops it being started if someone tries to "hot-wire" the ignition). Toyota do an alarm themselves which is designed to link in to the vehicles existing electronics and can be fitted after purchase - ask a Toyota Dealer. It won't do much extra to stop the car being stolen but will possibly deter break ins.
  43. 1 point
    Hi, I had the same problem. Poor start with cold day, engine sometimes only puff-puff and stall (blue-white smoke). In last three years I changed glow plugs, battery, overhaul fuel pump, bought new injectors, bought fuel warmer etc. But everything without effect. Now I found where is problem. If you have a small SCV valve on fuel pump (called Compact SCV) try this home made diagnostic: warm up SCV valve before starting in cold day using hot water or hot airgun (about 80°C). When engine start for first time, piston in SCV valve is seized (rather chill diminishes tolerance and piston seized). Denso prepare new version of SCV valve, please wait few days, I prepare complete guide with pictures, order numbers and Denso service manual. P.S. I´m sorry for my english, because I´m from Czech Republic :-) Edit: 6.2.2013 - Here is part number: new one - 0422626020 (replace old 042260L030) After replace SCV, you must make Supply Pump Initialization Procedure - see enclosed Denso Repair Manual, Repair Section/2.Diagnostic Overview/2-113 to 2-115. I make this process with Toyota IT II (Intelligent Tester), I think that this way is better than connecting terminals TC and CG.. After replacing SCV during calibration were two random errors. Both of these errors concerned Air Mass sensor and Intake Air Temperature. I erased all this errors three times during calibration. Now is everything OK. Torque for SCV bolts is 6,9Nm first, 10,8Nm second. DENSO CR SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
  44. 1 point
    Ive just realised ive never posted this up on this forum so here it is; I decided that I wanted to convert my tail lamps on my compressor to give the JDM look, after seeing Noedel's conversion on the TOC a year so ago. I loved the look it gave to the rear end of the car at night and it looked relatively simple to do. What I didn't like about Noedel's conversion was the fact you had to disable the rear fog light and every year you would have to return the lights back to standard to pass a MOT. As I've messed with car lighting wiring looms of practically every car I've owned, I quickly hatched a plan of "how to do it" in my head. This method allows you to have; 4 sidelights 4 brake lights 2 fog lights displayed in the inner oem fog light area. There will be no unwanted fog light symbol coming up on the dash everytime you brake, nor will all the lights light up when you turn the rear fog on. This way makes all the lights work as it should and it will have no problems going through an MOT like this :) Heres a video of the lights working to give you a idea on how it will look ;) Right first up, parts that you will require; - 2 380 Brake light bulbs - 4 5amp diodes - Some very small screws + screwdriver - 1.5mm/8mm drill bit + drill - Soldering iron and solder - A wiring connector from a scrapped Toyota (If you'd like two rear fog lights) - Rotary tool with attachments - 3m of 1.0mm 16A car wiring loom grade wire - A selection of heat shrink in various sizes - Some sharp side snips - 4 very small electrical o ring connectors I shall start with the drivers tail lamp. First; - Remove the carpet cover in the boot - Remove the white wiring connector on the top nut, it just pulls off - Remove the 3x 10mm nuts - Pull the tail light off the car and remove the connector by pushing in the tab. - Remove the inner light panel from the light assembly by pushing the two black tabs revealing this: The left bulb here is missing - this is the fog light one to be modified. In the fog light slot there is a metal tab which connects to the bottom of the bulb. As we will be using a 2 point bulb we need to remove this. So I used a pair of side snips to cut the tab at the top Using a flat head screw driver lift the tap up to allow the whole piece to simply lift out of the bulb slot. Then push the tab flat again once its removed, leaving you with this cut out bit of metal ;) Drill a 8mm hole in the back of the bulb holder for the new wires to pass through. Once that is done, take both of your 380 bulbs and solder a 10cm piece of wire to each of the connectors to the bottom of the bulb One will be the "high/brightest" connection and one will be the "low/dimmest" connection. I used a power probe to find out which was which. You can fit the circuit board back on the car and test each wire to see which is which if you do not have one of these :) Now you need to solder in a diode to the circuit board, please make sure you solder this in the correct way and to the correct metal paths as I have it shown here. The metal paths need to be either sanded or slightly ground down as they are galvanised and if you don't do this the solder wont stick very well. I used a rotary tool with a small grinding stone to do this as well, I was being lazy Next up you need to cut off the two plastic heads on the circuit board. I did this with a cutting disc on the rotary tool again to give it a clean finish. I've then drilled a 1.5mm hole into the plastic below to allow me to fit a very small self tapping screw into it. I've marked on this photo where I have done this and also which one is for either the high/low bulb wires go onto. Once your happy with your lengths of wire and that they go to the right place (you can always fit the circuit board back onto the car and test which one is high or low) you now need to fit two small ring connectors to the bulb wires. Again I soldered these in and heat shrank them to aid conductivity and protect against short circuits. The tiny self tapping screws I used And the drivers side unit all complete and ready to go :) The passenger side is just a reversed copy of the drivers side, so copy exactly what you did to the drivers side. ill just put the pictures up for a reference. And completed Even though there is a fog light bulb holder on the passenger side tail lamp, the hole for the bulb to access it is not cut out. I used a engravement attachment on the rotary tool as the outline for this hole is already there. All i did was "engrave" this mark deeper and deeper until it cut through. I then used a small sand paper wheel on the rotary tool to clean up the edges and you'll have something that looks like this :) There will be some bits that fall into the light housing itself, you can use a combination of a straw attached to a hover to remove these. If you cant get it all out that way, like i couldn't, I ended up swilling out the light 5-6 times with loads of water and leaving it to dry on a radiator. (BOTH SINGLE/DOUBLE FOG LIGHT VERSIONS) To the drivers side tail lamp connector. The red wire with silver dots is the fog light wire. Remove the electrical tape further up the wiring loom to give some more access. About half way up this photo above you will need to snip the fog light wire (red with silver dots) IF YOU ONLY WANT A SINGLE DRIVERS SIDE FOG LIGHT: Solder in a diode like shown and heat shrink the wire Rewrap the wires in electrical tape and refit the lights back onto the car. Stand back and enjoy the JDM look your tail lights now have :good: IF YOU WANT DOUBLE FOG LIGHTS: Take an electrical connector you've cut from a scrapped toyota. This one below happens to be a CD player connector out of a avensis, which had lying around from when i converted my E11 tail lights (I've already chopped most of it up as you can see ) And cut out a connector pin Solder in a diode noting which way I have it facing and add a good length of wire to it - Enough to travel from the left tail lamp to the right. Then heat shrink the connection Go to the passenger side tail lamp connector and you will notice that one of the six pins on the connector is missing (3rd from top) This is where the fog light wire would normally run. You need to pop open the little clip on the connector using a small flat head screwdriver and feed the connector pin into the slot. Make sure its the right way around!! You will feel it clip into place and then all you have to do is secure it back into place with the original clip :) I then wrapped some electrical tape around the wires at the connector end to make them all hold together securely. Remove the boot rubber seal from around the boot carpet and bottom trim. Remove the two 10mm bolts off the lower boot plastic trim and pop it off Pop the carpet out for some room at the sides of the lights - these are held in with one body trim clip each side. Feed the wire that you've added to the passenger light connector to the drivers side connector. I tapped it in at various places to the original wiring loom that runs along this panel to make sure it doesn't get trapped or caught on anything. Once at the drivers side tail lamp connector, you need to solder in a diode with the wire located as shown! The extra fog light wire must be above the diode (opposite side to the connector) otherwise you will over load the diode. Heat shrink the wire and diode Wrap the wires back up with electrical tape. Refit everything back onto the car, stand back and enjoy the JDM looking tail lights :good: If anyone is unsure of any part of this guide or feels like i haven't explained parts in enough detail - let me know and ill try to improve on it :)
  45. 1 point
    I've done it to my car. 1.6 Valvematic originally 132BHP and 9.7 sec to 60mph (the brochure says it is 10sec but my gtech tested the acceleration and I got 9.7sec). I have installed a sport mufler (you can use for example made by MAGNAFLOW), then I changed the air filter to one made by PIPERCROSS. I did not check the power gain, I only got by those changes 9.6sec to 60mph. After that I installed the cold AIR intake made by K&N, but changed the cone filter to a one made of the same material as the pipercross filters. Those mods made my car get 141BHP and 9.45sec to 60mph. The cost of those modifications was around 300GBP (pounds) I also tried to add a piggyback computer to my ECU made by ECUMASTER. With all previous mods my car gained 157BHP and 9.3sec to 60mph. Unfortunately it was running on CHECK ENGINE all the time, this is why I sold the ECU MASTER.
  46. 1 point
    On that list forget plugs. They don't give power bonus so long as you keep them well maintained and gapped. With it being 2008 your about the changeover point of dual vvti/valvematic if it's valvematic forget camshaft changes. Very difficult to do. Supercharging is realistically easiest thing to do. Lotus have done it with the 1.8 dual vvti unit for the Elise.
  47. 1 point
    With it being naturally aspirated power gains are not cheap. Your obvious power gains are reduce weight dont carry whats not required. Power to weight ratio is the best performance gain. Lighter alloy wheels, remove air con, spare wheel. V Power fuel. Then its the usual Exhaust system, air filter, irdium spark plugs, bigger throttle body, camshafts, lighter pulleys etc list goes on. You will loose economy at the cost of performance, & have to declare the mods or insurance becomes void. Ideally if your serious change your car to save yourself the hassle.
  48. 1 point
    Clutch changes are expensive :( For my Yaris, quotes were £700-800 from main dealers, £500-600 for franchise garages and £400-500 for independent garages and travelling mechanics... When I've had to do clutch changes, I usually get the whole thing done (Friction plate, cover/spring, bearing and slave cylinder) just to save money in the future, as the labour costs are very high...
  49. 1 point
    Well, I would guess there's something wrong with the gearbox or the electronics controlling the automatic clutch - Yaris doesn't have a normal automatic gearbox; it's "Multi Mode Transmission" - a manual gearbox with an electronically activated automatic clutch and gear change. I'm assuming that you couldn't shift gears using the up and down on the gear lever or the paddles? I'm assuming that the MMT gearbox your one is the similar to the current models -- all I know is what's in the manual, but I drive a manual gearbox so can't be of a lot of help I'm afraid. Thanks anway, at least i kind of know what it is Hi did you find out the problem .. because I am having the same...
  50. 1 point
    Just been having a trawl around the net for some spark plugs on unsurprisingly spark-plugs.co.uk and noticed they do denso O2 sensors. £63 for the top and £48 for the bottom ones, I think that is plus vat but so was the £145.53 and £138.93 that Mr T charged me. Anybody used them?

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