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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    We'll much better mpg then my last car a steady 57-60mpg on the way back home . The clutch seems better then the pre facelift no clunking noise on slow moving traffic . Pulls better off the line . Less noise in the cabin and not sure if I'm imagining things but suspension has less roll . Any way first mod done as soon as I got home replace the mirror covers to black .I think it looks better my self but each to there own . Before and after ....
  2. 2 points
    Hi everyone, I am new here and thought I had to make an account and some uploads for my yaris! The back story, I needed a super cheap car for my job, I do allot of miles and was looking for anything cheap after my last car went to the scrapyard with electrical issues (it was a focus) my budget was only about £500 after lots of looking and test drives of some horrible cars I found my 2001 Yaris Sr 1.3 with 100k miles which I got for £560 If a car is cheap there is ALWAYS a reason, some it's rust, some it's dodgy clutches or engines, my wee yaris it was a hole in the exhaust you can put a finger in and the paint looks like it was cleaned with a brillo pad! I have had the car for 3 months and done just over 7k miles and I have fallen in love, so much fun to drive, so good on fuel and so so cheap, all I have done is change the oil! I would love to hear from anyone with tips on how to make thease engine last forever, if I keep going the way I am the car will do 30k miles this year and take a beating on rough country roads
  3. 1 point
    Hi all After my Gen1 Auris was written-off (see link): I have decided to replace it with a newer MK4 Yaris Hybrid Excel My high expectation criteria's are, MUST HAVE/BE: 01. MK4 Yaris Hybrid (2017-)...so, there is road tax 😔 02. Sat Nav 🚦 03. Panoramic Roof 🌞 04. Convenience Pack (or is it Smart Pack) with folding electric wing mirrors 🍹 05. Right colour 🤔 Preferables: 06. Part/leather 07. TSS (Toyota Safety Sense) 08. Design/Bi-Tone version (machined alloys!) 09. Low mileage! 10. From a dealership! ll for a budget of £10k 💰 MISSION IMPOSSIBLE ?!!! That's why I am hoping with the POWER of this FORUM and its 100s of 1000s of members, that someone will find this Yaris on sale for me! Will you help?
  4. 1 point
    Just some more wee pics of the carina in action - these where the days! :) scan0016.pdf
  5. 1 point
    I will be adding to this post when time allows We will start with the simple stuff Touch2 Gen 1 (with surround) Touch2 Gen 2 (one piece) Access to the service menu. Press and hold the music or car button and turn the sidelights on and off 3 times - some cars with the touch2 you pull the hand brake up and down 3 times To access the Hidden Diag Menu from the Service Menu touch the bottom right and left corners 3 times each eg. Right ---- Left, Right ---- Left, Right ---- Left, some times it takes a few extra presses 2/3 TOUCH SW Adjust allows you to re calibrate the touch screen Connectors All connectors are Sumitomo apart from DA USB, EXT USB and E1/LVDS what are JAE E1/LVDS connectors are JAE MX48 these Plugs are not avalible to the public (you can freely purchase the pcb/smd sockets tho) When you have the nav module connected the DA USB is not used as the Nav Module handles the bluetooth and usb it then communicates back to the Touch2 (DA) via LVDS If your unlucky enough to get a touch2 with the nav module without the nav wire (patch harness) the only real option is to purchase it from the main dealer 86842-12010 £57+vat at the time of posting
  6. 1 point
    Three of the Rover gas turbine cars are housed at the British Motor Museum, Gaydon, and are usually on display. The last time I was there, Toyota had their Toyota Carina E in the workshop on the ground floor of the collections hall, which they label 'number 1'.
  7. 1 point
    Hi, might be better to start this in a seperate thread, I think it will get lost in this one and may not get the answers
  8. 1 point
    I switch to the digital speedo and set the centre display to media (dab radio in my case). Much less fussy.
  9. 1 point
    Had the Cat Loc fitted today. Price was same as Toyota's £250 fitted incVAT. I saw the unit and looks a bit of substantial kit, Invoice stated that the unit was £184.45 and £24.15 labour plus AT. He told me that they pay more than a dealer for the unit, as they price them less than that for dealers. Comes with card which gives unique code if vehicle is stolen or the cat. The bolts are tamper proof, unless they are drilled out after installation
  10. 1 point
    I can't work out the acceleration guidance. Sometimes it's happy to let me use full ICE, other times in the same location and situation it wants me to barely tickle the accelerator pedal. Leaving Farthinghoe toward Banbury is an example of that. Every time I reach the end of the 30 zone I'm doing 30 mph. But sometimes it will say 'you can go for it if you want' other times it seems to prefer me to stay in EV (which I will do if I can't see any point accelerating harder) and yet other times the guidance wont even want me to use full EV. One thing I've noticed recently though is that if you wait a couple of seconds at whatever (arbitrary?) power level it wants and then gradually start pushing the accelerator the guidance seems to follow whatever you do whereas going straight to full ICE it will refuse to budge. It's almost as if it's just encouraging a little patience to start off with or perhaps just doesn't like you jabbing the pedal down. But I also wonder if there's any significant to the My T app mentioning road features. I've only ever been 'dinged' for accelerating too hard away from a roundabout, never any other kind of junction. Is the car actually taking the nature of the road into consideration? That would require that all Corollas had sat nav ability which seems a little unlikely. But anyway for me it's mostly only acceleration I get dinged on. My best ever score commuting was a 96 last October. Not a thing on the A422 so I just toddled along and - yes - obeyed the acceleration guidance.
  11. 1 point
    Pretty standard for a diesel. Don't worry, and enjoy the car.
  12. 1 point
    Not surprised it’s a diesel. It’s one of the characteristics of Diesel engines, they very dirty inside and of course now considered very dirty as to what comes out of the exhaust pipe. When you drain the oil at oil change time, you not removing every bit of oil, it’s in oil says all through the engine. So, when you put your new oil in, very quickly it mixes with the dirty old oil and turns black pretty quick. A petrol car is different, and the oil can look clean couple thousand miles down the road. Best thing you can do is buy quality oil and quality oil filters and change them no later then Toyotas schedule.
  13. 1 point
    SOLVED: So it is just impossible to get steering wheel controls working with aftermarket head unit in prefacelift Corolla e12. No one of those adapters etc doesn't work with AVC-LAN type steering wheel controls. I literally asked it from everywhere. I found a guy from Greece who made me a new PCB in original SWC. Haven't got it yet, but He said He have done many of them.
  14. 1 point
    I am blaming ALDI for all these stolen Catalytic converters. In their store today are hydraulic car trolley jacks for £19.99. Cheap as chips, no wonder thefts are increasing, almost tempted to get one and a grinder and set up in business.
  15. 1 point
    I queried the price with Toyo Tech, as to it being a fixed price of £250. They have come back and apologized say they based it on the invoice, which when they looked was for 2 items and not one. So it will be less than the price of Toyota's price. Thanks for the heads up, as I would not have known. And no, my one is still there hopefully till they fit the cat lock.
  16. 1 point
    Had mine fitted on Friday 14th at Toyota £250. Came with stickers for the car window which states catloc fitted and on a registered data base.
  17. 1 point
    As far as I'm aware Toyo Tech is an independent, not a Toyota dealer - https://www.toyo-tech.co.uk
  18. 1 point
    I work at Toyota and it's a fixed price for all catloc except early Prius And that's at ALL dealers
  19. 1 point
    Seems expensive it should be fixed price of £250 inc vat
  20. 1 point
    Whatever, but it shows not only hybrids are being targeted. Either way, its still not good, and the powers that be need to get a grip (preferably round the culprits throat).
  21. 1 point
    Basically the issue isn't a safety issue - so no mandatory action re informing owners is required. Exactly the same for owners of cars who have smart entry on their cars, despite the fact that thousands have been stolen through weaknesses in the systems. If you wish to raise a complaint, contact Toyota GB.
  22. 1 point
    Yes I did, waiting to approve the claim. Cheers
  23. 1 point
    They appear to be smashing drivers windows and removing steering wheels. The why would be demand for BMW airbags in the 2nd hand market or abroad. From my local FB page Our steering wheel was taken on Saturday night Hide or report this our steering wheel was also taken on Saturday night. The window was smashed!
  24. 1 point
    There seems to be an outbreak of BMW airbag thefts as well which are easier to steal than Cats. 3 BMW's local to me were targeted in one night. The big issue is there's been no better time to be a thief! Theft from vehicles is not even being investigated, it's just being recorded.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    I have a spare a manual which I got when I bought a replacement unit after mine gave up the ghost. I'll check to make sure it's the same numbered manual tomorrow, if it is I could sent it over to you.
  27. 1 point
    I wouldn't expect the electric motor to be able to do anything useful at that speed and it might even be outside of its operating range. The hybrid system can't work miracles.
  28. 1 point
    The figures from the Honest John Real MPG are close the same which are being mentioned on this post
  29. 1 point
    If it helps, I can offer some real world fuel stats from my 2019 Excel AWD hybrid, both solo and towing 1600Kg caravan. Car received 3rd May. I record usage on brim to brim readings. Mileage at last top up 2342 Towing mpg av.25.6 over 625 miles, last tow 28.4 mpg over 159 miles Solo mpg 49.0 over 1717 miles, last solo 49.82 mpg over 442 miles The mpg is improving as the car loosens up, I now regularly get 50+mpg on journeys. I don't drive purely for economy, but try to be economical within the needs of the traffic I am in. These stats are a huge improvement over my previous 2018 Rav4 hybrid, about 25%, and I am sure this is helped by the seemingly much more responsive engine/motor/battery management software as well as the other improvements. Dave
  30. 1 point
    Hi, even you are driving mostly motorways hybrid system still helps propel the car and you are always getting efficiency close to a diesel equivalent or even better. Driving in hills it’s not too bad either, because If you do a regular journeys both directions one way you are using more fuel than driving on flat roads but on the other way you may not use at all or just a tiny bit so you are still within the good range overall. My driving is motorways 80% , country lanes 5% and 15% in town, winter times I do 50mpg and in summer over 60mpg. My winter worsen a lot because I keep the car in ready mode sometimes for hours 6-8 hours , for heating and power supply.
  31. 1 point
    If anyone still needs information on how to change the spark plugs on a 998cc IQ, I’ve provided details below after completing the job this afternoon. It should take about 90 minutes and is pretty straightforward. Tools required: 10mm socket, 10mm spark plug socket and extension, cross head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, 3 new denso iridium spark plugs 1. Disconnect the battery connections 2. Loosen the clamps on the large inlet rubber pipe (cross head screwdRiver or 10mm socket) and the clip on the small side pipe on the right hand side of this pipe - and remove 3. Disconnect the 2 electrical plugs on either side of the throttle body (which the inlet pipe goes into. To do this you willl need to press down the clip on side of the connector and ease it off. A flat head screwdriver can help to press down the tab and ease the plug off. It may be useful to disconnect the clamp which holds the wires, by pressing on either side on the tabs where the connector mounts. 4. There are 4 bolts / nuts holding the throttle body in place. Remove the 3 bolts on the front of the throttle body using a 10mm socket. Remove the 10mm nut on the right hand side and slide the throttle body forward. You may want to unclip the 2 rubber hoses at the top of the throttle body where they clip into rubber clips - just press upwards with your fingers to unclip 5. Slide the throttle body forward until it is just clear of the stud which the 4th nut was connected to. Then lift the throttle body up by a couple of inches and insert the stud into the mounting hole. This will keep the throttle body out of the way and ensure that the coolant hoses are not damaged 6. You will then see the 3 coil packs in front of you. Each is held in place with a 10mm bolt. Start with the first one - order isn’t important. Undo the bolt and disconnect the electrical connector. To do this pres down on the tab on top of the connector and ease off. As before, a flat head screwdriver can help here. Then pull out the coil pack and put to one side 7. Using the spark plug spanner, remove the spark plug. This takes a while as the thread on the spark plug is quite long. Screw in the new spark plug to a torque of 15ft lb. insert the coil pack attach the electrical connector and bolt down with the bolt. No torque setting here, but needs to be pretty tight. The hardest thing here is getting the socket off the spark plug - it took a bit of jiggling to get it off. 8. Repeat for the 2 other plugs. I found to get enough clearance for the middle plug, I had to take the throttle body off the stud and lift a bit higher, taking care not to put strain on coolant pipes 9. Refit the throttle body using the 3 bolts and the nut (to connect to the stud) 10. Reattach the electrical plugs on either side of the throttle body, and the connector holding the wire in place, if you removed it 11. Reattach the inlet pipe, and tighten the 2 clamps at either end and the clip holding the smaller side tube in place 12. Reconnect the battery terminals 13. Start car and congratulate yourself for saving so much money by not getting the dealer to do it for you and that it’s 60,000 miles until you have to do it again! I hope this is useful to someone.
  32. 1 point
    Hi David, where did you source the clutch part from?
  33. 1 point
    I can assure you that profess have not paid me to give praises. The workmanship was impeccable compared to a lot of other installations i have recently seen. But hey what do I know?? In regards to tweeks, I have no idea what tweeks if any. The installation is looked over but I have no idea what is done. I make the connection with them, they look over stuff for a minute. Connection ends, see you next year. Yes I am the same Steve, and if I am right you have a grudge against Profess or AC or both or any other LPG installer? Not sure why you are so negative against someone elses work? Doesn't bode well. You are much better being positive with your advice instead of slating others. Guess what, it doesn't work here. Yes you were right to be paranoid.
  34. 1 point
    It was the top nut that was loose, I just removed it with my fingers. Its not a lock nut as I would have expected so just used some thread lock & put it back on as tight as I could which wasn't too tight because the shock strut just turns after a bit but I undid the other side whilst at it & that only required a quick ***** on the socket bar to get it loose. You need to remove all the plastic bits at the bottom of the screen, then the metal tray underneath the plastic which is only a few 10mm bolts to get clear access to the top of the strut. I thought that the ring the nut is sitting on in the photo was the dust cap but only when you get clear sight did I realise that there is a rubber cap in the middle so don't make that mistake as I did. No damage done & rattling gone. Thanks again Craig for the photo's they were a great help.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    I used the Toyota workshop manual it covers my engine and the corolla Haynes as that covers the engine too.(2.0 diesel 1cd-ftv) CLUTCH.pdf MANUAL TRANSMISSION & TRANSAXLE.pdf
  37. 1 point
    I think it would make very little difference in Spain whether you used 5w 30 or 0w 20, however, in the colder Northern European countries, you should use the 0w 20 for better cold starting and MPG
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    There is nothing to actually "fail" As the camshaft rotates, it pushes down on the top of a valve to open it. There has to be a tiny gap so that the valve can completely close. Because if the valve doesn't seat properly, combustion gasses at very high pressures can be forced past. Rather than have some kind of adjuster between the moving parts as in days of old, The engine is assembled, clearances checked then an appropriate sized bucket / shim or both are fitted to give the perfect, tiny gap. The gap NORMALLY becomes slightly wider over time (therefore, noisier) just down to wear. Modern oils and materials mean you should get hundreds of thousands of miles with negligible wear. If they become noisy, measurements are taken, the engine is dismantled and thicker parts fitted. Main cost is time. ie......Take off air filter, coils, covers, bits & bobs. Measure some gaps. Turn engine a bit, measure some more gaps................Write down 12 gaps. Remove camshafts ......Time......more of it. Lift out all 12 buckets / shims......Write down the 12 sizes. Look in the big book of words. Find out what the gap IS what the gap SHOULD be. Work out the size of the shim needed (X 12) Have you any already in that size? Substitute some that fit for those that don't. Order the ones you need. Forget what went where. Parts arrive. Assemble in clinically clean conditions. Final last measure to check......Oh dear, one is just out of spec......Do it all again. Or simply swap in a young engine......just nuts & bolts. IF......the tolerances become too tight and the valve doesn't shut completely, the burning gasses will eventually wear away the valve seats. At this stage repair is uneconomic. Just swap engines. Tight tolerances should not occur in the Aygo engine as there is no adjustment for people to mess with and get too tight. Regular oil changes with top quality oils and......completely forget about them. I am the sort of bloke who lays awake at night worrying about stuff like valve clearances and other nonsense on my bike. As far as our Aygos are concerned, I sleep easy. Ian.
  40. 1 point
    Have been doing these on my bikes for years. They are a pain in the neck. However......I honestly don't think people go to these lengths on cars like Aygos these days. If mine required cams out & re-shimming I'd buy a low mileage engine and do a swap. By the time you've paid for gaskets, new shim / buckets, time etc. It makes far more sense. While they're rattlin', there are probably OK anyway. If they go quiet, due to closing up, you are having serious issues. Don't worry about 'em. Ian.
  41. 1 point
    Toyota say the tappets should be audibly inspected every 40,000 miles using a stethoscope, if the tappets sound noisy the valve clearances should be measured for correctness, if there is an issue with clearance then the camshafts have to come off and the tappet for the valve at issue measured and then replaced with a new tappet with a larger/smaller measurement. The best trick is to measure all the clearances and then it is often possible to swap tappets from one valve to another reusing some of them and only replacing the tappet left over with new ones of the correct thickness. I have worked for Toyota for 15 years now and have never seen an Aygo needing tappet replacement.
  42. 1 point
    Here we are on page 8 still blethering on about how an HSD goes uphill I have NEVER known a customer EVER have a problem go uphill, this is another "what oil do I use in my Hybrid" that will wander on forever and is meaningless FFS! sorry but it is getting right on my breasticles!! Ive driven plenty HSD and Ive NEVER had a problem, and thats around North Wales where we have one or two hills Kingo
  43. 1 point
    :D Please wait a few seconds for Video to load!
  44. 1 point
    The MMT box is NOT a semi auto (although like nearly all of todays automatics, it can be driven like one eg. Merc Tiptronic, flappy paddle boxes etc.). A semi auto is a clutchless box which requires a 'manual' input by the driver to change gear. As Kingo explained it is a manual box with an 'automatic' electronic clutch, (hence it does not require a 'manual' input). This issue has been covered in this forum many times before. There are 3 schools of opinion with respect to the MMT: 1) Never driven it but heard stories they're not very good = an irrelevant opinion from the opinionated uneducated 2) Have driven and don't like it - fair enough. Ususally because people expect it to be a full auto (torque converter) and drive it accordingly 3) Have driven and think its very clever and have little or no problems with it - these people understand what an automatic electronic clutch on a standard manual box implies and drive accordingly. You need to ignore 1), and then decide if you are in group 2) or group 3). Do a search on this forum and you will find a wealth of useful information from people who own and are very happy with these gearboxes. You don't drive a manual at constant throttle and change gear, because if you do it will not be a smooth ride! The same applies to the MMT. You need to learn how to get the best from these gearboxes and drive them with a degree of mechanical sympathy to how they are designed. My only criticism after 50k miles of entirely trouble free motoring is that they can be a little keen to change down to first at low speeds. But it is also worth remembering you can drive them as a semi-automatic if you wish (where you control when to change gear) This means you can have the best of both worlds: a semi-auto when required such as spirited driving/twisty B roads/hills and valleys (the gearbox cannot see, therefore it has difficulty anticipating road conditions, it relies on you to provide that input and this is paticularly relevant in a relatively low powered, small engined car such as the Aygo); and an automatic when in heavy traffic and pootling along. If you can understand the basic principles by which the box works and are happy to learn how to drive them, they are very rewarding and, in my experiemce, extremely reliable gearboxes. The best advise is to try one, even better advise is to try one with someone who knows how to drive them (if you do this you will be impressed). Regards, Neil
  45. 1 point
    Ive had a few MMT Toyota cars, and most of the time, people do not know how to drive them, sorry but that is how it is. The ones I have driven have been superb, querky at first but you need to adjust your driving style as it is different to driving a manual, and also different from an automatic The car is NOT a semi automatic, it is a standard manual clutch with gearbox, it has an electronic clutch intervention to operate the clutch seemlessly There have been some issues with the software on older models, newer models dont suffer the original MMT issuses The best thing to do is go and drive one, book yourself a test drive Kingo
  46. 1 point
    My 2000 yaris has 132k on the 998cc. Nothing major gone wrong , just exhaust, brakes and tyres. I do suffer from the air flow sensor problems but it's been like that for the last 5years/75000 miles and I still get 46 mpg average. Great cars
  47. 1 point
    354,000 miles in 3 years (Oil change every 5000 miles) Please wait a few seconds for Video to load!Don’t be concerned about hitting 100,000 miles next year! It will go to the moon (which is 238,857 miles) and probably back again My 2007 Toyota Yaris S Sedan doing 354,000 miles in exactly 3yrs without any major repairs. I replaced the alternator @ 323,000 miles. Only scheduled maintenance done on it, such as, Oil, Oil Filter, Spark Plugs, Drive Belt, Struts & Shocks, and Tires. Still running on the original factory clutch and brakes. I only use OEM parts.
  48. 1 point
    As long as it’s serviced every 12 months or 10,000 miles (which ever comes first) and has good quality oil and original filters and driven sympathetically, there is no reason for it to fail. I would also use Toyota to do the servicing. There is one it the States that has done over 350,000 miles and is good as it was the day he bought it. Enjoy your Yaris
  49. 1 point
    go 3sgte for the crack, anyone have any photos of a nice tte kitted ae111 corolla??? Will this do you?
  50. 1 point
    Welcome, ladies and gentlemen, to Alan's "Brief Guide to Being Annoyed with a Forum"... Introduction Maybe there are new members to your forum-of-choice, maybe old members have left or maybe you just feel you've grown out of a place you were previously happy. This guide is meant to help you to come to terms with these issues and decide what to do without causing undue anger or offence to those around you. 1. Don't Let Yourself Get Wound Up Try to avoid sections of the forum and forum users who may antagonise you. If that's a certain sub-forum (possibly labelled General, Off-Topic, The Restroom or similar) then maybe its best not to visit it if you can help it. Remember, what you can't see won't infuriate. Perhaps its a certain user(s). If that's the case then a brief jab of the "Ignore User" button will suddenly stop their irritating little post from being flagged to your attention. 2. Tact and Diplomacy If you do find yourself in a disagreement, know when to let it drop. Sit at your screen and think "I know I'm right". This works well on both counts as if they're right thay'll have to come back and admit their mistake at some point (knowing you were correct) and if you were wrong... Well, you're not going to look nearly as big a prat as you would have if you'd argued for a further 2 pages, are you? The moral high ground is a comfortable place to sit. 3. The Past There is no point harking back to "The Old Days". In much the same way as the dead cannot, except under very special and disputed circumstances, be made to walk then it its impossible to somehow wind a forum back to The Glory Days where the posts were brighter, the conversation more sparkling and the banter wittier. Members leave, members join. Forum members should strive for new Glory Days. A forum is what it is now, not what it was 18 months ago. 4. Time Out If it gets really bad, take some time out. Spend some time posting on other forums. Maybe even speak to people or read a book when you would have been surfing. After a couple of weeks you'll have forgotten what all the trouble was about and you'll have so many posts to catch up on that you won't want to waste time squabbling. Weaning yourself back in slowly is a good thing too. Too many posts and The Anger may return. 5. Grand Goodbyes If it has all become to much and you've decided that the forum is - for whatever reason - no longer for you then you should probably leave. Grand Goodbyes are not a good way to go. They cry "Attention !Removed!" and make even the most respected former-member look like a petulant child. More to the point they make a return so much more difficult should, at some point in the future, opinions be sought or required. Better to slip away quietly and have people ask, "where's that old rogue gone?" than say, "Thank **** that ****'s left". 6. Its only the Internet Remember, above all else, that you're only posting on the internet. Nobody can hear you scream. It can be impossible, despite the most careful use of smilies, to relay your emotions or emotional state accurately. Take this into account and treat people as you yourself would like to be treated - surely then you can't go wrong. Good luck and happy posting, Alan edited for grammatical typo...

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