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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Driving the other day, there was a distinct rattle jiggle knocking from the rear RH side. Noticeable going over bumps and road unevenness. I was worried about a suspension linkage and was considering taking the car to our local independent garage for them to take a look on the rack. Yesterday, I washed the car, and when hosing it down, and as usual I hosed out the rear wheel arches, especially the "mud trap" forward of the rear wheels. I then found the source of the rattle jiggle knocking. It was a piece of rough stone about the size of a marble or a Malteser! 🤣 Just thought I'd share this with the Yaris community, as maybe someone else may have the issue. Mick.
  2. 2 points
    Craggle was right. Talking to the Toyota Service Manager he confirmed that the clutch pedal needs to be right down to the floor - I.e. more than required to change gear. Apparently it can be adjusted, but now I know I just always floor the pedal completely - every time. So problem resolved.
  3. 2 points
    I changed today to the Cross Climates. They do seem quieter and the steering feels sharper. Too soon to say if mpg will be adversely affected. Both the Toyo and the Michelin are 195/65 R15 91H. I feel we may be getting into the 17 vs 15 discussion again. The circumference of the tyres is the same it is just the depth/ width of the tyre that changes. From experience over 12 years and 4 hybrids I can assure you that tyres and tyre pressures make a huge difference to mpg. Even the brochure for the Gen 4 says Urban mpg 97.4 for 15 vs 85.6 for 17. My averages have never got near either of these but I regularly see 80+ on 20 mile trips. Summer was 62.7 winter maybe 61 but often trips are less than 5 miles and the long trips fast motorway, neither of which are ideal. I have never known what the correct pressure should be as the handbook is ambiguous It says 32 psi with a full spare and 36psi front 35 rear without. I have a spacesaver but thats not quoted.. I know that after a service my pressures were always down. and I put up to the label inside the door pressures again. 2.5 /2.4. maybe that is why I was not happy on the Toyo . In the past when I changed from the OEM tyre type I always consulted the manufacturer of the tyre for pressures and invariably found they were not the same as the manufacturer of the vehicle. Michelin say go by the label in the door. By the same token in the past I always went 4 psi over or the fast setting for better mpg and less wear (Pre Toyota). A friend just swapped his Rav diesel for a Rav Hybrid and was moaning about the fuel consumption. When I went out to look at it he had huge Black wheels with very low profile tyres. He was completely unaware of the affect wheel size had on mpg.. Style over substance.
  4. 2 points
    In case anybody is waiting for them the latest autumn 2018 maps for touch 2 with go are now available for download on the My Toyota e-store.
  5. 2 points
    Blind Spot Monitor, I suspect. It's those lights on your wing mirrors. It is an option you can switch on or off.
  6. 2 points
    Well Snetterton happened and it was a wet and windy as we used the 300 track which the BTCC use for their races. So after a very slippery sighting laps and practice laps and a bit of suspension adjustment I went out to do my timed runs in which I was like bambi on ice it was mad. When it dried for 1 run I was able to put a fast time in which help me scalp some lot faster cars to my little Yaris. We also had a GRMN Yaris one of two go off into the barrier oops. It was a very nervous day on track but a great event though. I walked away with the E-Street and J16 Championships.
  7. 2 points
    Hi Paul, I'm with Nick ( @saxo265 ) on this one.....I think you've been watching "Sin City Motors" and are doing the "Baseball bat between the tyre and the arch and roll the car forwards and backwards" technique to roll the arches. I think that it will look great and just the look that you are going for.....Top marks for bravery, my friend as it scares the bejeezus out of me! 😮 Good luck, Paul, you're doing a great job and I have to say that I'm loving your videos and this is one of my favourite threads on the site. Best of luck with all that you do and keep up the good work All the best!
  8. 2 points
    Rolling wheel arches? 🤔
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Good honest report. The Prius is an excellent car but the Gen 4 is the best one yet. Just a shame about the storage in glove box and under the boot.
  11. 1 point
    Hi, Is it actually the engine itself which is at fault? Black smoke, poor acceleration etc are more likely to be an issue with the EGR, or the injectors. I would be quite surprised if a diesel engine was worn out at 170k. Personally I would avoid a 2.2 unless it was from at least 2009 onwards when the known problems with the 2.2 were apparently fixed.
  12. 1 point
    I was on the M40 last summer and the motorway signs said obstruction on road lane 1. I slowed but some carried on regardless. A couple sitting on my tail. In the road was a pipe that looked like it was off a tanker. Flexible tube with brass screw on connectors about 6” diameter. I was able to swerve out into lane 2, a couple of cars that were almost tailgating me hit it and I saw bits of car flying off. Further down the road three other cars were on the hard shoulder, one looked like the radiator was holed water dumped behind it. You get a warning and people ignor it, too many sheep driving these days!
  13. 1 point
    Its been 3 days now and the eml light has not come back on. I read that the code for the bank 2 lambda sensor is P0430, so im assuming it cant be the other sensor. I replaced the bank 1 sensor in July 2016 with original Denso one so i wouldnt expect it to in balance with the other one. Should a new lambda sensor generally go faulty after 2 years? Maybe it was a glitch, im not sure. Will continue to drive and see if it comes on again. Will report updates if anything happens. Thanks
  14. 1 point
    Removing the resonator is a popular mod among certain tuners, however, doing so may reduce your power and increase noise. The reason why this may reduce your power is, explained in a simple manner, that the air flow will collide with itself, reducing the ammount of air that goes in to the engine when the intake is open. With the resonator, the air that bounces off the closed intake will have a place to go. Idk if I explained it in a good way but if you want to dig deeper into the idea of resonators, I can provide you with an article or two.
  15. 1 point
    This is a screen shot from the Toyota guide to upgrading the radio, the original is available on the Toyota GB website for free if you search hard. The document title is at the very top of the picture. These guides are all picture-based, there is no relevant text to go with this screen shot. Looks like there are some screws on the instrument cluster. As the car isn't with me currently, I can't remember what '3' looks like when fitted. There is some access available by removing the r/h dash end panel (the one that gets hidden when the door is closed). This pops off quite easily, no screws. Perhaps that might be enough if your hands aren't too big. Don't forget to update on how you get on! HTH.
  16. 1 point
    Hi, Just to say you are lucky that you spotted this in time. Had misfortune to snap a driveshaft on Saturday just pulling on to a roundabout after a stop.
  17. 1 point
    Indeed; and its the first Toyota I've had with this anomaly. Perhaps it's a trend.....
  18. 1 point
    After having new front brakes and disks fitted today, I just got home and parked up to find a wet patch under the car, and have a mini panic after seeing what looked like an exposed pipe dripping. I took lots of photos, powered my laptop up ready to create a post in here, and then found this thread. That I started. Apologies for the thread resurrection, but I felt I had to share my relief!
  19. 1 point
    Taken from Toyota GB's own sales figures and are for total UK sales with no distinction between corporate or private customers.
  20. 1 point
    I can see clearly now, the rest of the pipe has gone... This clamp will grip the lip and allow the hanger/bobbin to be attached. This cobble-up is made possible because the original layout includes a sleeve [cut off & here reused for the butt joint of the up curve] 2sav
  21. 1 point
    Thats likely to the the main input shaft bearing in the gearbox, which spins when the clutch is not depressed, and when it wears, its creates a whirring, rattly type of noise. Its very common in higher mileage cars, and unless its really severe, there is not much to be worried about. If the noise goes away with the clutch depressed, then its more than definitely the gearbox bearing thats worn, and is unlikely to be the clutch release bearing or thrust bearing as its also known. The only way to stop the noise would be to overhaul the gearbox. My old 1999 Yaris with 70K on the clock made this noise too, and so do many other cars with manual gearboxes - its just the effects of higher mileages on the gearbox bearings. You could try checking the gearbox oil level, and it should be up to the filler hole level, but as I say, if the mileage is higher than about 50K, then there will usually be some kind of noise from the input shaft bearings when the car is idling in neutral.
  22. 1 point
    Have you tested the battery? I don't know what the lower CCA limit for your car is but I don't think you would notice a drop of 20. I don't think you should stray too far off, however. If you have the auto start/stop function, you should get a battery that is designed for this. I've personally only had good experiences with Toyota batteries but I put a Varta Silver battery in my old T22 back in 2012, which I moved over to my current T25. Seems quite solid, and I can run the stereo with the engine off for quite some time. At the end of the day, I guess it all depends on what you use your battery for. If you're just using your car in a normal way, I think any battery approximately matching the original specs would do. If you tax the battery a lot, an AGM battery might be worth the investment. Remember to buy the correct battery size (short code, I think it's called). <-- That's apparently just a Varta thing, look for the correct measurements.
  23. 1 point
    Cheers just wanted to check when I disconnect coolant temp sensor fans kick in and temp gauge in dash doesn’t goes to cold when I reconnect fans stop and gauge in car goes back to half way mark just wanted to see if this was normal
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    I'm really pleased for everyone. Since my last post I was going to suggest an in-situ clean as described. If the matrix leaks then you would have had the same effort as me but you had everything to gain for a lot less hassle. A tip I would suggest is to get some proper 5/8" coolant hose to connect temporarily to the matrix as it's so cheap. I've been reading about different types of anti-freeze. There is a difference between the Toyota red and VW or GM pink and they should not be mixed either like the blue. I'll find the links again as soon as I can in case anyone is interested. This may have been the cause. Here's one: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa052601a.htm Part quote: (highlights mine) "In many US and Japanese antifreeze formulas phosphate is added as a corrosion inhibitor. European vehicle manufacturers, however, recommend against the use of phosphate containing antifreeze. The following will examine the different positions on this issue to help judge the pros and cons on phosphate inhibitors. In the US market, a phosphate inhibitor is included in many formulas to provide several important functions that help reduce automotive cooling system damage. The benefits provided by the phosphate include: •Protect aluminum engine components by reducing cavitation corrosion during high speed driving. •Provide for corrosion protection to ferrous metals. •Act as a buffer to keep the antifreeze mixture alkaline. This prevents acid build-up that will damage or destroy metal engine parts. European manufacturers feel that these benefits are achievable with inhibitors other than phosphate. Their main concerns with phosphate containing products are the potential for solids dropout when mixed with hard water. Solids can collect on cooling system walls forming what is known as scale. This concern comes from the fact that European water is much harder than water in the US. Because phosphate "softens" water by forming solids of calcium or magnesium salts that can dropout of solution, there is potential for cooling system blockage. The phosphate level in most US and Japanese antifreeze formulas do not generate significant solids. Furthermore modern antifreeze formulations are designed to minimize the formation of scale. The small amount of solids formed presents no problem for cooling systems or to water pump seals."

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