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  1. 2 points
    L denotes Local production which in the case of EU Corolla means UK production VIN starting SB1or Turkish production VIN starting NM, J is for Japanese production VIN starting JT
  2. 2 points
    I didn't have to contact the insurer. If I was happy to use their preferred supplier, Autoglass, Direct Line supply a number to ring them direct. I got the chip repaired next day. I rang Thursday afternoon to say I needed a new screen and they offered me several appointments on Saturday at either Norwich or Ipswich. It was lucky that they chose to repair the original crack, as I only had to pay a £10 excess. Because the repair failed I got the whole windscreen fee including the re-calibration. If they'd originally said I needed a new screen, my company charges £75 excess. If I chosen to get my dealer (or anyone other than Autoglass) to do it (£600) they would only have paid £150 towards it.
  3. 2 points
    Update! It's finally been done!!!
  4. 2 points
    Hi Anees, welcome to TOC 1) as you are buying from a trader you have very good rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 should anything go wrong within 6 months (& the car is still within Toyota UK's warranty period anyway). 2) Toyota service intervals are 10,000 miles or 12 months whichever comes sooner. However, they generally allow leeway of plus 1000 miles or 1 month. 6 stamps should be 60,000 miles so it's probably due another especially as it is 10,000 since last - I probably would have made a service part of the purchase deal but hey ho ... The fact that not all services are dealer should not impact on the warranty as such but may mean that you may not get goodwill for things outside normal warranty terms.
  5. 2 points
    Having quoted seat part prices for over 40 years I'm quite surprised at how reasonable those prices are! I priced a heat seat element the other day for a Range Rover and it was £322 plus VAT, just for the part
  6. 2 points
    Phone any manufacturer and ask them how much seat trims come to, I think you will find Toyota no more expensive. TBH you are lucky the parts are even available, considering the car is 10 years old and the model out of production for the same amount of time.
  7. 2 points
    A nice set, and I love buying tools :D
  8. 2 points
    .......... YaY E18 is a *dead-fit onto the 12MM bolt. Turned straight out and both are very rusty... Smeared 3-in-1 over the shanks/threads before reassembling. *Metrinch sockets cost a fortune - an E18 does for 12mm, suits me! Very happy bunny. 2sav
  9. 2 points
    The disadvantage of using cruise control is that going up any inclines it will ensure that the set speed is maintained thereby using more fuel than if speed was manually allowed to reduce. I suppose it would also be a disadvantage to use CC on downhill stretches as it would limit the speed and not allow momentum to increase the distance travelled. So on the face of it it seems that CC would be less efficient fuel wise. Another factor would be how journey times might be affected. Who knows whether manual reductions in uphill speeds would be compensated by increased momentum/speeds going downhill and whether it would be favourable compared to CC. To be honest I'm not bothered. I use CC because I find it more relaxing and comfortable for longer journeys and am not concerned that arguably it might be a little less fuel efficient (or not, if that's the case!).
  10. 2 points
    Quick Update. The dealer I bought the car from has inspected the car and confirmed it is the release bearing causing the problems. It also turns out I have a 5yr warranty (not the 3 years I was told when I bought the car 2yrs ago) and the car isn't 5yr old until August. Another thing to note is, there is a knowledge article for the release bearing fitted to my car advising of these issues and the replacement has been covered under warranty. To say I am over the moon is an understatement. The dealer has been fantastic and the whole process took 2 days from me dropping the car off with them. My wife & I have owned Toyota's for around 8-10 years and have never had a fault of any kind, we are amazed at the reliability of their cars and even more amazed by the support & friendly atmosphere given by the dealer who we return to year after year for services & MOT's, they are not our closest dealer but we still maintain they are the best dealer out there.
  11. 2 points
    Life's to short to be faffing with additional steering locks etc imo, which then pose a significant danger in the event of a crash, unless in the boot. Far better to have a decent insurance policy in place. If it get nicked then claim and job done.
  12. 1 point
    Toyota service intervals are 12 months or 10,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
  13. 1 point
    That's a good price, nice tool lol.
  14. 1 point
    Glad you found it and thanks for posting back, not everyone does.
  15. 1 point
    What do you want one of those ancient old things for, when you can have a set of digital ones for peanuts
  16. 1 point
    I was tempted to test it a few hours later but decided it was best for it to be left for 24 hours. I will give another update if it is successfully fixed or not. Thanks again!
  17. 1 point
    Hello David - welcome to Toyota Owners Club. Yes - paste links to the cars you're interested in as they will enable members to provide more accurate feedback.
  18. 1 point
    Try sprinkling talcum powder over everywhere ,water should leave tracks.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    This should be a good and safe place to re-check the EV mode button's action. With a full-ish battery and warm engine, select EV mode and notice that you can use power beyond the ECO mid-point without the engine starting. Try without EV mode and notice that engine kicks in as you apply power beyond the ECO mid-point. Simples.
  21. 1 point
    Update: Mike has beaten me to it by 10 seconds!! I have seen a driveshaft fail in a very similar way on a Rover 25 many years ago. In that instance there had not been any clutch work or otherwise carried out on the car. In your photo, to the right side of the breakage, there is what appears to be a thick rubber vibration damper, this is a very common design across many (all?) brands of front wheel drive car. The damper fits tightly around the shaft, but over time, rust forms underneath and compromises the shaft's strength, not least because the effective diameter of the shaft is reduced. That is exactly where the Rover 25 shaft failed (whilst being driven normally). That car was in otherwise great condition, but old. So from that Rover experience, I would say that your garage is not to blame, this was an existing problem - a corrosion trap - that was going to fail sooner or later anyway. It is a potential problem on many, many cars. It was lucky that your driveshaft breaking didn't leave you somewhere vulnerable!
  22. 1 point
    Wow you want a lot for your money [emoji1] Plug in Yaris is one thing, but you want 4WD as well. I would rather see them, increase the battery capacity and beef up the regen. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  23. 1 point
    Finally finished the installation of my Ambarella A7LA50 dashcam, so I thought I'd post the information I gathered along the way. Hopefully this will help someone in the future. I was looking for a neat and tidy installation, so wanted it mounted at the top centre of the windscreen for the best view. I also wanted it hidden from general view from the inside and outside, but still easily accessible. Finally after a little playing around I decided I could fit it behind the rear view mirror whilst leaving enough space for mirror adjustment. Next problem was getting power and having the power switched off with the ignition, I didn't want recording to continue 24/7 and flatten the battery. I needed to tap into the cabling somehow and the upper central console looked a good source. After a visit to a Toyota Garage for some tips in removing the light, I discovered it was just a matter of ensuring there were no bolts/screws holding it up by checking behing the light lenses (none found) and then levering the console out until the clips popped out. You can see here that my unit is just held in place the four pop clips (2 blue & 2 white clips in photo). Best method is to use a long thin plastic prise tool to lever it out, however I improvised with an ice scraper. The connecting cables are easily unplugged. From eBay I purchased a 12v DC to 5v DC converter with a micro USB plug on the end, suitable for running my dashcam.(£3.58 inc postage from a UK supplier) and also a few wire taps and spade connectors to spur off the power from the existing cabling in the roof lining.(£3.15 inc postage from a UK supplier) - Also known as T-Tap or ScotchLok Using a meter and probes I found that the black and white wire was common ground/negative and a blue wire had a 12v supply which was cut with the ignition (perfect!) These wires powered my rear view mirror auto anti-dazzle, so shouldn't cause a problem tapping into that. Press on the connectors onto the wires (using pliers), crimp the spade connectors onto the power adapter and plug in. Nice and easy, no soldering. After plugging it all in and routing the USB cable down the side of the mirror trunking, it was just a simple case of popping the centre light console back. Easy peasy, looks neat and works great!30 minute job from start to finish (including taking photos!)
  24. 1 point
    I know the first comments will be use the search etc., but I spent 20mins looking over lunch today though. I can find reference to plenty of folk saying "clean the EGR valve" to solve your problems and "wow! what a difference" afterwards. But is there a guide to doing it or pictures of at least where it is (2007 2.2 D4D engine)? Il put my hands up, im a newbie when it comes to diesel engines. Apprciated.
  25. 1 point
    The proper way to do this is to get the 4 wheel alignment done on your car. Get them to make sure the wheel is set to dead centre and it will be sorted.


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