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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I arranged with my local Toyota dealer, Chester/Deeside area, to have 2 new tyres fitted today. All 4 tyres were hanging around 3 mm but I decided to have 2 new on the front. I have a Gen 4 Prius Excel with 15" wheels. Originals were Toyo and the dealer quoted me about 2 months ago £50 per tyre, that included balancing, new valves, disposal etc and included VAT. That matched any price I could see on the internet so booked in for today. When done I started chatting to the service guy about satnav map updates, and he offered to update today if I had time to wait for about an hour - it takes that time for the software to do its job. Job done, just had to hand over the £100 for 2 tyres. If there is another map update before my car is 3 years old end of September then they will do that freebie as well. I know some on this forum are not too impressed with their local Toyota dealer, so I thought I would give a good comment about my local dealer.
  2. 3 points
    I stopped taking mine to the dealer once the warranty was up, FSH be damned! I still bring it in for the Hybrid Health Check, but I do the oil and filters myself. I try and keep the receipts for the service items, hopefully that'll be worth something to the next owner.
  3. 3 points
    7mm is nowhere near the low mark, it's not even halfway between 2&3, I still work in imperial 😀 and it came to me direct from the factory 1/4" below the top mark so maybe 6mm is closer Filling to the top mark is clearly wrong! If you look in the cars handbook page 127 it shows a diagram of the dipstick numbered 1,2 & 3 (1) is marked as low, (3) which is the top spot on the dipstick is marked as excessive. From that you can presume that the correct level is somewhere between 2 & 3, certainly not on the excessive mark and definitely not 5mm above it as was done to my car and many others from what i have read here, so how can a precise amount result in that? clearly something is wrong at the dealers and the engine is not warmed up so they drain cold oil and don't wait for it to finish trickling out ,
  4. 2 points
    Hello everyone. Just picked up my '17 Auris Hybrid after my wife talked me out of buying a Hyundai Ioniq (she has a little Aygo). Hopefully I'll be able to contribute 🙂
  5. 2 points
    Toyota say from £610 depending upon exact model. Being a diesel it probably has a DMF so if you want that replaced too at the same time expect quite a bit more. Of course a 3rd party will be cheaper than a dealer.
  6. 2 points
    In days gone by, I'd have put new tyres on the rear, but that was when I drove more enthusiastically and ran a greater risk of the car losing stability on a wet corner. These days I'd put them on the front. I'd rather have better traction pulling out on a wet roundabout and better aquaplaning resistance on the steering wheels. If the rears are really bad enough to cause a loss of stability under braking - even when we have ABS and stability control to keep the car in line - then I'd say those tyres need changing as well!
  7. 2 points
    Its rather like when you've just washed the car, it starts to rain---when motorcycling , the only time it rains is when you went out without your waterproofs and when you fit winter tyres, the weather stays mild.
  8. 2 points
    I thought about saying that to you yesterday - depreciation on the new car would probably be higher than what you saved in petrol.
  9. 2 points
    If you want to save money, just keep the Auris. With such low mileages, I can't see how it could ever make financial sense to change the car.
  10. 2 points
    Finally got around to changing the oil, the dipstick pump was a failure, clearly the Prius has a very narrow tube, I got a 6mm tube from B& Q, went out to the carpark to make sure it fitted part the way in and it appeared to be o.k. Got home and tried it again and halfway down it went very tight , I was aware of what would happen if it got stuck and decided to take it back and get a 5mm tube but non in stock. I decided yesterday to raise the car and drain it from below, I saw a Youtube video of a Gen 4 having it's oil changed from off small ramps, without me having ramps anymore I hit on the idea to cut an old 30mm plank into suitable pieces, jack up the wheel, push the board under, lower the jack, put another board under the jack and raise the wheel to get a second board under the wheel. Doing this repeatably on both wheels I got 4 pieces under each and it was completely safe, nothing could collapse. Underneath it's easy to reach the 3 X10mm bolts holding the little plastic cover, then the 14mm drain plug is clearly visible, I ran the engine to warm back up, switched off and drained it into a container. I left the filter as I wanted to tip the oil out but it is more awkward to reach and needs a special tool . Refilled to the original factory spec of around 7-8mm below the top mark on the dipstick and set off to test it. ( I did check the level the day I collected the car) We've been out on one of our regular local trips today and it seems to be vastly improved like it was the first year we had the car. Clearly my car was not filled with 0W-20 by Listers and combined with 5mm of overfill cannot be trusted to do a simple oil change, just shoddy careless work. I'm going to cancel the service contract so not only will they lose my custom for servicing but also my next vehicle will not come from them either.
  11. 2 points
    Hi guys, just purchased my second toyota 😀
  12. 2 points
    Every car is different, sometimes even the same year, make and model can have different-feeling pedals or other things, but you get used to it with time. It's also worth noting what shoes the driver is wearing, now in the colder months people tend to wear shoes with thicker heels and so the feel of the pedal doesn't get transfered as good as it does in the summer when the shoes you're wearing are giving you the feeling that you're driving bare-foor. Or is this a new "fault" and it was okay for a long time before? There was a post here quite recently where 1.8 petrol owner felt his car lacking power, only to find out the throttle body wasn't operating correctly and didn't open quite as much as the pedal would make you think. This might be the same issue but the other way around where the throttle body opens up too much.
  13. 2 points
    had mine done as it devoloped a judder in heavy stop/start traffic,but not on long journeys.was quoted £970 by toyota got it done at a1 clutches in dudley for £280
  14. 2 points
    I had my clutch replaced in my 2005 T25 1.8 petrol and it came in at just under £300 - the mechanic charged me 4 hours labour.
  15. 2 points
    Well I collected my shiny new toy today, and I'm chuffed to little mint balls with it! 😁 Pleased with the way it drives - it does feel quite different to (better than) the Auris. Found it very easy to get comfortable - I'm pleased to find that the arm rests are actually high enough that I can use them, unlike the Gen 3. I spent a little while in the driveway fiddling with menus, finding how to get the display I wanted and getting my phone paired and the sat nav to connect to the internet for traffic - I'll be experimenting with running it in parallel with my phone Tom Tom on some known routes to see how it compares on routing. I was pleased to see that the map graphics are considerably better than they were on my Auris which I found difficult to read - they are clearer and less cluttered, and the contrast is better. Mileage is promising - 64.9 mpg since the first fill but I've only done about 30 miles - still I wouldn't be anywhere near that in the Auris on the same trip. The radar cruise control is cool - felt very weird the first time it slowed down for a car in front - I find standard cruise control frustrating especially in motorway roadworks (which those of you who use the M6 a lot as I do will know means constantly) - this looks to be much better. I found that the wireless charger can't keep up with the drain from the sat nav on the phone - not an issue if I find that I'm happy with the in-car sat nav, if not I'll just plug it in. Oh, and I switched off the Road Sign Assist - it's as much use as a chocolate fireguard, half the time it displays the wrong limit when it displays anything at all - but all the other tech is tickety-boo so far. Only disappointment is the relative lack of storage space compared with the Auris, which itself compared poorly to the Gen 3 Prius - seems like Toyota shrink the internal storage space with every new model. If that's the only drawback I reckon I can live with it! I've a couple of days commuting then feet up for Christmas but I've a trip to Southampton on the 30th (I live in Manchester) so looking forward to seeing how it is on a long trip. Happy days!
  16. 2 points
    Then it all depends on what the car is like generally. Are the brakes ok with plenty of wear left? Hows the exhaust system going on, will it last another few years? What about the tyres for wear left? General body condition? Do you like the car enough to keep it? The balls in your court.
  17. 1 point
    Part of the emissions control - not an issue. You soon get used to it.
  18. 1 point
    Finally got to the bottom of the squealing sound.It was caused by a partially seized front nearside brake caliper.Mad really because i had only changed the pads and discs last Summer. I just removed the caliper and used a large set of water pump pliers on the piston to force back,i also used an old disc to push up to after i had continuously worked the caliper backwards and forwards,anyways it appears to have done the job for now.Will Look into replacing the caliper at some point.
  19. 1 point
    Toyota have now recalled all existing vehicles with this fault and you can have it fixed for free! Check: https://www.toyota.co.uk/owners/vehicle-information/recall-checker#/iframe/https%3A%2F%2Fforms.toyota.co.uk%2Frecall-checker
  20. 1 point
    The blue light is a bit pointless in the way that it operates. I suppose it's done that way because the lights don't actually 'dip' at all, but it would be more reassuring if it changed when the shuttering activated. After adjusting the beams up, I don't use AHB at all any more. In fact, I rarely bother with manual main beam other than for the occasional joy of lighting up something that's half a mile away.
  21. 1 point
    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year too you all on here 👍 All the best for 2019 🎉🍾
  22. 1 point
    Welcome Ron...and good luck with all you want to do with your Rav.
  23. 1 point
    My original Toyota battery lasted 7 years, 69,000 miles, and it looks like the Halfords battery HCB012 which I replaced with a similar battery last year, lasted 12 years, unless I fitted two previous batteries not one, in which case the Halfords batteries lasted about 6 years. I've mislaid my service manual, so I cannot confirm that, my photo copies of it only go up to 2011. The car is 20 this year. The prescribed battery by Halfords did not fit the carrier, so I had to buy a smaller battery, but it has always started the car first time. However, I always plaster the terminals with loads of Vaseline.
  24. 1 point
    Your DPF is massively clogged, after a regen the PM Accumulation ratio should be 0% yours is 510%. it would appear your attempted regen was not successful, Toyota say: PERFORM PM FORCED REGENERATION Clear the DTC and Exhaust Fuel Addition FB value by disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal or removing the EFI MAIN No. 2 fuse for 1 minute or more. Tech Tips The accumulated PM volume stored in the ECM cannot be initialized using the intelligent tester. To perform PM forced regeneration, it is necessary to perform initialization of the accumulated PM volume stored in the ECM. Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3. Start the engine and drive the vehicle until the engine coolant temperature reaches 60°C (140°F) or more. Move the shift lever to N and set the parking brake. Turn the tester on. Enter the following menus: Powertrain / Engine and ECT / Active Test / Activate the DPF Rejuvenate (PM) / Data List / PM Accumulation Ratio. Perform the Active Test while the vehicle is driven at a constant vehicle speed within 50 to 100 km/h (31 to 62 mph) (transmission in 3rd gear) for more than 15 minutes. Tech Tips While the "Activate the DPF Rejuvenate (PM)" Active Test is being performed, the accelerator opening angle should be kept as constant as possible. When you start driving, "DPNR/DPF Status Reju (PM)" on the Data List displays "Compl". However, continue to drive the vehicle until "PM Accumulation Ratio" drops to 0%. Once "PM Accumulation Ratio" drops to 0%, regeneration is complete. Continue to drive the vehicle until "PM Accumulation Ratio" drops to 0%. CAUTION: Be aware of excessive heat on and around the exhaust pipes during PM forced regeneration. Note If PM forced regeneration stops, repair the malfunction that caused it to stop, and perform it again to complete the operation. Tech Tips PM forced regeneration completes in 15 to 40 minutes. PM forced regeneration time changes depending on PM Accumulation Ratio and driving conditions. A fail-safe stops PM forced regeneration if Catalyst Differential Press increases too much during regeneration Exhaust Temperature B1S3 becomes 500°C (932°F) or more within 20 minutes of PM forced regeneration start. PM forced regeneration will be stopped if the accelerator pedal is depressed during regeneration. In this case, PM forced regeneration needs to be performed again. Even if PM forced regeneration stops while it is occurring, the intelligent tester displays Compl (complete) for DPNR/DPF Status Reju (PM).
  25. 1 point
    Now i thought you might be on here! I'm loving the updates of late on the Carina, and cant wait to see whats next! Steve


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