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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/06/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Like some others on this forum, I am not entirely convinced that Toyota is so far behind everyone with EV tech. Their hybrid program has included nearly all if not all technologies require to build a totally electrical car. They have one of the most slippery bodyshells on the current prius and this includes quite wide tyres and a radiator grille-( both items known to cause drag). They have electrical motors able to power the car along, they have kinetic battery recharging technology, electrical power control technology, charging technology and battery technology and mass production experience. Putting a Toyota next to any one of its EV competitors highlights their competitors weakness. Nissan , for example are only successful with small cars with big batteries. Tesla have cracked the range, power and battery issue but the cost of the tech is astronomical.Renault have fallen rather short of the mark made by Nissan but have also gone along the route of putting big batteries into a small car. Nearly everyone else is trying to use their petrol engined chassis as a lack lustre EV or hybrid. Only BMW have really had a good go at things but their very space efficient I3 is a bit of a draggy little lump at cd 0.29. My impression is that for the time being , Toyota are keeping their powder dry whilst battery and motor technology slowly improves to the point where producing a vehicle which will carry 4 persons and their baggage 300miles between fuel ups ( charges ) is commonplace and affordable.
  2. 2 points
    When a Toyota pure EV is produced I reckon it will be a good un, that's what Toyota do.
  3. 1 point
    Hi everyone, I've been a lurker on here for quite some time, had my 2009 iQ3 for over a year now and love it! Unfortunately in the past couple of weeks it's decided to add an extra feature that I'm not keen on. I noticed the passenger mat was wet, didn't think too much of it initially, but pulled that up to find the carpet underneath was wetter. I pulled the carpet up and the soundproofing underneath was totally drenched with water. It was the same on the driver's side but not to the same extent. I took the carpets up, removed the sound proofing and dried everything out. Tried googling to see if anyone else has had the same problem but couldn't find anything. I sat in the car with the majority of the lower dash off, with a hose pointed at the front all over and couldn't see anything coming in (that's not to say it isn't just from the amount I would expect it to be flowing in reasonably quickly). Have checked to see if any drain points are blocked, pollen filter etc. but can't see anything obvious. So a week after drying it out the water is back again... I'm wondering if the air con drain pipe is blocked but can't seem to find a reference or diagram showing where it is. Have taken the dash off again this morning but can't see anything obvious. Would any of you lovely people know where it is or have any other suggestions to where it could be coming in? I'm reluctant to take it to a garage initially as I know how notoriously difficult it is to trace a water leak so want to rule out anything obvious myself first. Thanks, Steve
  4. 1 point
    Hi all, I just wondered if anybody had any inside info from the dealer network as to the possibility of this being a future upgrade / software update for the new 2019 Rav4 Martin
  5. 1 point
    Toyota's recall checker - https://www.toyota.co.uk/owners/vehicle-information/recall-checker
  6. 1 point
    P0093 = Large fuel leak detected ( Unlikely to be an actual fuel leak ) Fuel pressure drop before and after fuel injection is larger than the threshold a certain number of times (0.2 seconds or more). (1 trip detection logic) P0193 = Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input. Fuel pressure sensor output voltage is 4.9 V or higher for 0.5 seconds. (1 trip detection logic) P0406 = Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit High. EGR valve position sensor output voltage is higher than 4.9 V for 5 seconds. (1 trip detection logic) P602D Is not a recognised code. P062D = Fuel Injector Driver Circuit Performance Bank1. Open or short in the injector driver (EDU) or fuel injector circuit. (1 trip detection logic) There are technical service bulletins for both P0093 & P062D EG-0068T-0514 Subject: Knocking noise and DTC P0093 due to injector nozzle deformation in AD engine. Models: AURIS; AVENSIS; COROLLA; RAV4; TOYOTA RAV4; VERSO Model codes: ADE150; ADE157; ADE186; ADT270; ADT271; ADE150; ALA40; ALA41; ALA49; ALA30; ALA35; AUR20; AUR21 DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON Some customers may experience and report knocking noise and/or DTC P0093 being triggered. The nozzle of the injector might corrode, deform and crack due to condensation water created inside the cylinder. PRODUCTION CHANGE -The design of the Injector has been changed Injectors need to be removed and nozzle tips inspected for deformation ( pitting, denting, bends ) if found replace injectors as a set, if not deformed then the bulletin does not apply proceed with P0093 diagnostic process EG-0024T-0212 Subject: Loss of engine power and MIL ON due to fuel injector failure - DTC P062D MIL ON Models: AURIS; AVENSIS; COROLLA; RAV4; TOYOTA RAV4; VERSO Model codes: ADE150; ADE157; ADE186; ADT270; ADT271; ADE150; ALA40; ALA41; ALA49; ALA30; ALA35; AUR20; AUR21 DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON Some customers may complain about injector failure causing a loss of engine power and MIL ON. DTC P062D (fuel injector driver circuit performance) is stored in the memory of the engine ECU. PRODUCTION CHANGE The production process of the fuel injectors has been improved. Injector feed backs need to be monitored via diagnostic PC if feedback volume of 1 or more injector is greater than +/- 3.0mm replace faulty injector/s with modified injector, if feedback of all injectors are < 3.0 mm Replace ALL injectors with modified injector
  7. 1 point
    Welcome aboard Roy and Linda.....enjoy the Verso.!
  8. 1 point
    Hello Roy and Linda, welcome to the Toyota Owners Club, enjoy it 😄
  9. 1 point
    Hi Roy and Linda, welcome to the club.
  10. 1 point
    Hello Roy and Linda - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.
  11. 1 point
    have an 08 avensis, one of the grandchildren left interior light on, car would not start, charged the battery , now starts but no throttle response or dashboard functions, car moves but very slow only, any ideas
  12. 1 point
    Hi all I'm a new member. I have bought a toyota estima 2.4 petrol today and all was well for about 10 miles. It then started tapping when accelerating and has got gradually louder and at one point the engine management light came on for about 10 seconds. Oil was fine when I bought it but waiting for it to cool down before I check again. Any thoughts?
  13. 1 point
    Hi, the engine light and trc light are illuminated on my IQ3(61) and the vsc light is constantly flashing. I have had a service and the mechanic changed the lamber/oxygen sensor thinking it would remedy the fault, as that was the fault showing up on the computer. 20miles later and same problem has returned. We both at a loss. The car drives the same but the fuel consumption is terrible. Any help greatfully received.
  14. 1 point
    Hey dippy, Reading through this I'm also left quite baffled at what's going on. Since the DPF is new and the smoking is still there, why hasn't anyone even mentioned injectors, especially since there's an injector specifically for DPF (5th injector)? Since the car has 150k km on it, it's also due to have first problems appear with injectors. My manual states that injectors need attention after about 100k. And even if mechanics looked at data from all injectors it's still not a bomb-proof way of seeing if they're going bad. I think all they see is the pressure at the rail and whether a particular injector is compensating more than the others. It's still likely that the flow of fuel is incorrect or, let's say, the injector isn't atomizing correctly. I'm dealing with this right now where diagnostics show everything regarding fuel is in top order but the car is starting "laborly" even in +30°C weather. One or more injectors are thought to be the problem. Unfortunately you need to take the injectors out and put them on a test bench but since the fault is likely with the 5th injector, I think it'll be easier to remove. I also wouldn't write off the main 4 injectors as being the problematic ones.
  15. 1 point
    Like everything else, range will be improved, Hydrogen is here in the UK and more stations are planned. The Police are taking Mirai because they need to reduce their carbon footprint in London, EV are no good to them, the cars are hot swapped and cannot wait for charging to take place. When the supermarkets can see an opportunity to MAKE and sell Hydrogen AND make money they will be on it, then you will see production expand. Toyota have released all the patents for fuel cell technology so it can be expanded and improved, it is here, it is not going away. I for one am quite excited by it...can you tell? lol as I was with Hybrid in 1997, look where that is now
  16. 1 point
    Battery swapping has been tried and doesn't really work - handling such heavy battery packs causes a lot of wear and tear, not something you want when dealing with high voltages and volatile chemistry. Battery charging is constantly getting faster. Once it's down to <10 minutes for a full charge then the inconvenience of BEVs will no longer be an issue. It'll happen eventually (though not necessarily for home charging, due to amount of power required), but I don't know how soon. I don't think hydrogen fuel cells is ever going to happen for normal passenger cars, mainly down to the infrastructure. Hydrogen storage is expensive, and production requires a lot of energy - it's more efficient for the lecky to go directly into your car than use it to produce hydrogen. There's not a single publicly available hydrogen station in my country, whereas there are hundreds of public EV chargers around, and if I'm really stuck I can charge (slowly) from pretty much any residential or commercial premises in the country. And the Mirai has a range that's no better than the top end Teslas (around 300 miles).
  17. 1 point
    Toyota have far from lost sight of the future, they are at the forefront of technology, just not what everyone else is doing. The Toyota mantra for some 20 odd years has been to produce cars with zero emissions, but at that time, the only way forward was Hybrid for which they are now mainstream. I was lucky enough to talk to the UK chap in charge of the Mirai Hydrogen project, what an exciting future that is. Imagine being a fuel station owner now, having to buy your fuel from a refinery and paying the going rate. Roll on a few years (available now but not mainstream) and you will find your local petrol station making their own Hydrogen on site. Not tied to any fuel manufacturer, making your own fuel from electricity and water, now that truly is the future, and it's not far away either, all we need is the vehicles to be built at much lower costs, the fuel stations are coming, more and more added each year. When we have cars buses and lorries on Hydrogen it will take off massively, the only trouble then is taxation, there is currently no tax on zero emissions, imagine what will happen when zero emission vehicles become the mainstream?
  18. 1 point
    I have done the opposite and traded in my Renault Zoe EV for my Gen 4 Prius. I only do a small number of miles a year too, approx 7,000, but once the fun and novelty of driving an EV wore off, I found it quite tiring always having to plan ahead and think about charging. It was exacerbated due to it being the main car as my partner only has an MX-5 so is not as practical. I may go back to an EV in the future, but not any time soon as I am enjoying my Prius too much and like that I can just jump into it anytime I like and go for a long unexpected trip knowing I can get fuel anywhere at the drop of a hat. Although I charged at home say 90% of the time, when I did using the public chargers I encountered so many issues. I wish you well and hope you enjoy the Leaf, which I have to say does look very good 😀
  19. 1 point
    Hi guys well it's a tale of woe, was driving back from derby after welding mates car and the engine symbol came on temp gauge was fine so i carried on steady thinking get codes read when i get home, then i gradually lost power an eventually came to a stop, rac said head gasket has gone, i'm going to attempt to repair it myself as i used to be a mechanic, what i would like to know is am i better off dropping engine out cos i don't fancy doing it in situ really, iv'e just ordered the sads donuts and a workshop manual as they need doing any advice or tips wiuld be gratefully appreciated cheers mdears
  20. 1 point
    Has anyone created a sort of box/tray for the back seat to kind of "lock off" the back section of the car turning into more of a 2 seater with proper storage? Was thinking of knocking one up out of wood and wondered if anyone else had done so yet? Thanks
  21. 1 point
    Hello chaps, Log since member of the forums from a number of years ago when I had my Corolla T Sport! Back now as I've just picked up a 2007 Yaris T Spirit - bit of a comedown I know! 😕 Anyway, hoping to draw on some experience. I'm looking at this (cheapo) double din heady it with sat nav etc; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-GPS-Double-2-Din-satnav-DVD-Player-WiFi-in-car-stereo-Bluetooth-USB-FM-Radio-/231927876861?nav=SEARCH Question is, does anyone have any idea what I may nee in the way of fascia kit, cage etc? I was of the impression this is what I'd need to get extra; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Yaris-MK2-2007-On-Car-Stereo-Radio-Double-Din-Facia-Fascia-Panel-CT24TY22-/261506419392?nav=SEARCH http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/261163934039?_mwBanner=1 Any clarification would be perfect. Cheers, Dan.
  22. 1 point
    Presumably the standard HIR2 bulb. The standard HIR2 bulb is already supposed to be approx 70% brighter than standard halogen, so comparing the Optiwhite HIR2 to standard halogen would be a nonsense. Extract from a post from CPN in the following topic after he fitted the Optiwhite HIR2's yesterday - "BTW, the new bulbs are excellent! What a massive improvement in both the headlights (dip and main) and the front fogs which are now actually useful (which they were not before IMO...)."
  23. 1 point
    Hi everyone It is with deep regret that i can no longer support people with Tns510 and Tns350 sat nav's that have lost their operating system due to flat or changed battery increasingly my email address has been exchanged to the point i am spending up to two days a week emailing the files to people and answering queeries so i ask anyone who has had the files from me in tbe past to step in and pass them on although i suspect the people looking for a quick fix are no longer members. Alternatively you can look on ebay under tns510 or tns510 and you can buy replacement cards from around £30 plus you get full use of your satnav then not just your Radio and Bluetooth Best Regards all David
  24. 1 point
    Interesting if they did make the electric side offer greater performance at low speed. This is something I said recently regarding the Yaris - during the warm-up phase the engine is held at idle (unless you floor it) so most of the performance of the car is from the electric side. It would be good if this was available during normal operation, too. Does anyone know if the battery in the C-HR is larger than e.g. Prius/Auris? EDIT: watched the video, and don't really see what the problem is? If you look at the official performance of any of the Toyota hybrids, they are all around the same figure for 0-60 MPH acceleration (around 10.5 seconds), and all have a top speed of around 105 MPH. Where they differ to conventional cars is they are faster off the mark from a standing start, but slightly slower in the latter part. If you want a dragster, buy a dragster. Hybrids are very capable. Yes, they drive differently, but IMHO they are better. Once you get used to them, you won't want to go back. The single biggest mind-set change is that engine RPM is completely disconnected from acceleration and speed. Sure, going up-hill requires more power (it's physics) but basically you operate it more like an aircraft, and set a power and wait for the car to accelerate. It takes more power to go faster (again, physics) and the power instrument reflects this. Part of learning to drive a hybrid is knowing what power setting (roughly) gives you what speed when accelerating. On the Yaris, middle of ECO will get you 30 MPH, 1 tick mark higher will get you 40 MPH, 2 tick marks higher will get you 50 MPH, but then 2.5 tick marks will get you 70 MPH and maybe a little faster if the road is level. Once you're at speed, you can lift off slightly. This is where the magic of hybrids take over - the engine is throttled back slightly*** giving great MPG, and the electric motor takes up the duty of maintaining speed, while the ICE is relegated to electrical generator-in-chief to supply power to the electric motor and charge the HV battery. *** compared to a conventional car, a lot! In fact the engine can be idling, as in 1000 RPM at 50 MPH and holding speed. Not even diesels can do that! RANT: Too many reviews focus on the "noise" made by hybrids under heavy acceleration, but that is only because the engine is brought up to peak torque RPM for maximum acceleration. A conventional car has to work its way there, whereas the hybrid drive-train allows for the engine to run at peak torque for the entire duration (this is why they actually pull so much better - they're running at the optimum all the time). If you were to drive a conventional car in 3rd gear at 60 MPH, it too can rev its guts out and make a lot of noise! /RANT.
  25. 1 point
    Hi everyone . I have a 2010 toyota iq . Will the TRD rear sway bar for 12~15 scion iq fit my 2010? Any one try to fit that be4? thank you
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Try here (David - "Tarquin" - can do an exchange unit with upgraded LED, you send him yours and he sends modified one by return post; he's refined it to avoid early failures) Link to Tarquin's work on interior light To remove, you push a round ended blade in from right hand side (between the headlining and light fitting), apply a little pressure and twist at same time to pop the fitting out. Very easy !! Dave
  28. 1 point
    Hello Rae - welcome to Toyota Owners Club. The answer is 'yes' to both. See Devon Aygo's post copied below: "There is only 1 kit available for Current Yaris and it covers both 15" and 16" wheeled Yaris supplied without a spare wheel, its a space saver type wheel and tyre and fittings to install. Current price is £95 incl VAT 1 x 42600-0DM50 16" Space saver wheel and tyre 1 x 42600-09D00 fitting kit including: 3 x rubber spacers to fit between wheel and floor 1 x Large plastic bolt to hold wheel to floor 1 x Cushion to fit on top of space saver to support lower floor and hold some tools 1 x Tool bag 1 x Jack 1 x Jack handle 1 x Wrench"
  29. 1 point
    Hi ! I just bought an iQ from 2009 as my first car :) I'd like to add a little subwoofer (Focal iBus 20). This one just needs an ISO connector on the radio to run. So i just want to know if the Radio on the iQ (i have the simple Radio in my car, not the GPS) have an ISO connector and if i need to buy an adaptator to connect my sub? Thanks guys ! (I'm sorry for my bad englsh, i'm french :/ )
  30. 1 point
    The Sd card not only contains the map data but also the Tns510 operating system which is a file called Loading.kwi. When you disconnect the car battery, it looses the operating system leaving it dead in the water. If you pm me an email address that can receive a 23mb file, i will send you that file. All you need to do is drop the file onto a blank SD card 4gb and lower and insert it in the tns510. Switch the ignition on to first position and watch the screen load indicated by a yellow progress bar. When its finished, the radio and bluetooth will spring back to life. For map info you will have to buy a genuine map card David
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    A very minor update! I noticed the screws at the base of the driver/front passenger seatbelts. I then decided that if a Lexus can have these covers, then so can my iQ... Chris iQ² ☆ black with red leather ☆ upgraded interior lighting ☆ white backlit dashboard/switches ☆ auto-folding mirrors ☆ smart entry ☆ auto-locking doors ☆ chrome exhaust ☆
  33. 1 point
    Just a minor improvement to the boot lid locking mechanism, if you're as fussy as I am... Chris 2012 iQ² with red leather upholstery ☆ upgraded interior lighting ☆ white backlit dashboard/switches ☆ auto-folding mirrors ☆ smart entry ☆ auto-locking doors ☆ chrome exhaust ☆
  34. 1 point
    Assuming the Scion IQ has similar mirrors, have a look at the following: http://www.iq-forums.com/forums/how-d-i-y-do-yourself/2222-diy-removal-side-mirror-turn-signal.html
  35. 1 point
    Its not like Cruise control... But I use it all the time Probably the best way to describe it is to compare it to cruise control Cruise Control: Usually you set a speed, and the car accelerates or maintains that speed (some advanced systems will also apply the brakes if the speed is considerabley over that of the speed set or if an object interacts with the radar some cars have fitted). One the cruise speed is set you can remove your feet from the pedals (or normally cover the brake, as you can adjust acceleration/speed with cruise stalk). If you brake or accelerate (hard) the system cancels automatically, and you have to set it again to enable it. How the Aygo's Speed limiter works: You set a speed (lowest is 20mph) or if your already moving above 20mph whatever your current speed is, again you can adjust the speed on the stalk afterwards. Whatever speed you set the car will not accelerate past in normal throttle control, but you must keep your foot on the throttle to maintain that speed. Now you can drive however you like the limited will stay set until you manually cancel it (so you can brake or accelerate and if you set it to 30mph, as soon as you hit 30mph the revs will die and the engine will only do as much work as is required to maintain that speed). There are a couple of extra bits of info: If you set the limiter and then depress the throttle hard(you can feel a slight click in the pedal) then you can continue accelerating beyond the limited speed, but the limiter will remain set for a further 30 seconds or so, so if your speed drops once more then your back on the limiter. The other thing is if you are going down hill and have your foot on the accelerator but aren't accelerating aggressively the digits on the dial will flash and it will beep to alert you that your exceeding your limited speed. tl;dr: Cruise control doesn't require you to keep your foot on the gas, speed limiter does, cruise control cancels if you hit the brakes, speed limiter doesn't It works great around town, where your in a 30mph zone for ages but your stopping at traffic lights and roundabouts all the time, as it removes the need to look at the speedo and you can concentrate more on the suicidal pedestrians. It also works quite well on the motorway too as the wind and road resistance is enough to !Removed! the car with small downwards adjustments and it just accelerates normally with upwards adjustments. The only issue I have with it is that you have to keep your feet on the pedals, which after an extended journey might leave them feeling a little numb (a problem you wouldn't have with cruise control) Hope that helps
  36. 1 point
    Nearly a month into IQ ownership I'm finding I'm putting the back seats down more and more to use the back for storage. I'm concerned about the back of the seat backs wearing so am considering getting the reversible boot mat that Toyota do. Apparently it's rubber on one side and material on the other. Has anyone got one and any opinions? Does it split allowing one seat up and one seat down? What happens when the seats are up...does it slide down in the small boot. Any help greatly accepted.
  37. 1 point
    Here are some photos taken while David was changing the dash lights and a 'before and after' shot of the door switches. Just look at those tiny LED bulbs! Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC
  38. 1 point
    I'm really proud to show off my next upgrade and it's all thanks to David who has once again worked his magic on an iQ! David changed his dashboard lights (dials, fuel display, knobs etc) to blue and it looks great. I wanted something similar but, as the plastics inside my car are black and white, with red leather upholstery, I decided to avoid introducing a new colour. I've seen lots of VWs, Audis and other high-end cars with white dials and they've always looked really smart and sporty. I'm not trying to make my Toyota something it isn't; instead I want to simply improve upon what's already there. I was worried that the white would be too bright, or not white enough. 'Pure' was the word of the day! David had exactly the right LED bulbs for the job, and the skills to do it. It took him a matter of minutes to pop open the dash and access the existing LED board. Then came the painstaking job of swapping over the *tiny* bulbs. The pictures speak for themselves - David did a fantastic job, for which I'm very grateful. Well worth the investment and now night-time driving is a total thrill (it's almost giving me a reason to look forward to winter!). The white and red looks great with my red leather seats, and the fuel display is much easier to read in bright daylight.
  39. 1 point
    The upper brake light seal was the problem with my Aygo sport, unscrewed the lamp, bit of seam sealer has never leaked since, and that was three years ago.
  40. 1 point
    Tried adjusting the brake cable at the hand brake end but no more tension as the threads bottom out. Where is the next place I need o adjust please, I am new to doing hand brake adjustments
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Seriously, I think the light you are seeing on the dash is not because you lifted the boot hatch, its because you pressed the button and unlocked the door. Also what do you regard as the boot? Are you wishing the light to cover the rear seats for when they are laid flat? David
  43. 1 point
    I don't know if the Avensis is the same, but here is the diagnostic test for the RAV4 auto A/C system: CHECK MODE PROCEDURE 1. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (INDICATOR CHECK) (a) Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. (B) Turn the ignition switch ON while simultaneously pressing the A/C control AUTO switch and the REC/ FRS switch. © Check that all indicators and the display area are turned on and off 4 times in succession at 1 second intervals. HINT: After the indicator check is completed, the system automatically enters sensor check mode. (d) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel diagnosis. 2. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (SENSOR CHECK) (a) Perform the indicator check. HINT: After the indicator check is completed, the system automatically enters sensor check mode. (B) Press the REC/FRS switch to enter actuator check mode. © After the actuator check is completed, press the AUTO switch to enter sensor check mode. NOTICE: The sensor check must be performed again after the actuator check is completed because sensor check mode, which starts automatically after the indicator check, cannot fully detect malfunctions. (d) Check the sensor check results displayed on the set temperature display. HINT: • The illustration shows the display when code 21 is output. • When 2 or more sensor check codes are detected, the codes are displayed in ascending numerical order. • In cases with 2 or more codes, if they are difficult to read, press the DEF switch to activate the step operation and display them one by one. • The codes are displayed in ascending numerical order as the DEF switch is pressed. (e) When any sensor check codes are displayed, refer to the DTC chart (see page AC-39). (f) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel diagnosis. HINT: Pressing the REC/FRS switch returns the system to actuator check mode. 3. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (CLEAR SENSOR CHECK CODE) (a) Inspect, and repair or replace the malfunctioning parts. (B) Clear the sensor check codes. (1) While pressing the DEF switch during sensor check mode, press the Rr DEF switch. HINT: Sensor check codes can be cleared by removing the ECU-B2 fuse from the engine room No. 2 relay block for more than 60 seconds. © Perform the sensor check and confirm that normal code 00 is displayed. 4. PANEL DIAGNOSIS (ACTUATOR CHECK) (a) Start the engine and warm it up. (B) Perform the indicator check. © When the sensor check is started after the indicator check, press the REC/FRS switch to start the actuator check. HINT: Perform the actuator check with the engine running. (d) Check the temperature and blower levels by hand at each step while the actuator check proceeds from step 0 to 9 at 1 second intervals (continuous operation). HINT: Each step number is displayed on the set temperature display. (e) To display step numbers one by one manually, press the DEF switch to activate the step operation. The step number changes each time the DEF switch is pressed. HINT: • Each step number blinks at 1 second intervals during the step operation. • The illustration shows the display when step number 5 is displayed. (f) Press the OFF switch to terminate the panel diagnosis. HINT: Pressing the AUTO switch returns to sensor check mode.
  44. 1 point
    Hi, I have a 2004 avensis Tourer 1.8 and both dipped headlights have suddenly stopped working, sidelights and main beam are fine, any obvious ideas such as fuses and relay (please help on the specific location of these as have not found them yet!!) before I remove the skin off my knuckles inspecting the bulbs!
  45. 1 point
    Yes check the brake fluid level first. Try jiggling the handbrake lever and see if the light flickers - it may be a loose micro-switch. I would be concerned though about the ABS warning light - it could be a faulty ABS sensor or reluctor. Looks like the garage did a lousey job. Switching off the warning light obviously only treated the symptoms and not the cause and considering brakes are a vital safety system of any car their inability to cure the cause may have inadvertently put lives at risk. Imagine going to your doctor with a severe headache and all he/she gave you was painkillers and then it turned out you have a sevre brain illness.
  46. 1 point
    Dont think anyone has covered this but i would like to change the front seats in my tsport yaris. This is only because the seats that are in are too high, not a fan of city seats!! I am 6ft 1 but have plenty of room this is no issue. I dont want anything boy racer like bucket seats from halfords, their terrible. I was more thinking along the line of the celica seats so they may atleast look like they belong in the car, or even some corolla seats (saw a taxi at my local garage, had all leather spec was absolutely gorgeous interior). Has anyone done this? is it fairly easy? dont want a massive job to be honest, plus their are airbags in the standard seats which would throw the airbag light up when removed. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.... Many thanks
  47. 1 point
    Pull out the middle heating rod control knob (the one that says 1234) and they'll be a hidden Phillips screw :)
  48. 1 point
    It is astounding so many people are ignorant of a basic requirement...they are dimwits there's no excuse. My son has recently bought a Yaris and isn't mechanicly minded, but I have instilled into him that oil is extremeley important and he checks it regularly.
  49. 1 point
    Sales talk. The SR was a a standard version in the UK. The limited edition E11 was the G6R - there was one for each toyota dealer in the UK when they were sold back in 1999. This was the "bug eye" version not the facelift which was the later version.
  50. 0 points
    If anyone wants to make Toyota more aware that EGR problem should be made re call item by Toyota UK and worldwide you can write to: Mr Jon Williams, President and Managing Director of Toyota GB, Toyota (GB) plc PO Box 814 Portsmouth PO6 9AY United Kingdom OR: IN JAPAN - Board of Directors Address - Toyota-Cho, Toyota City, Aichi Prefecture 471-8571, Japan Akira Imura - Chairman Chairman Akira Imura Vice Chairman Kazunori Yoshida President Tetsuro Toyoda Executive Vice Presidents Kimpei Mitsuya Tetsuo Agata Chiaki Yamaguchi Senior Managing Directors Toshiyuki Sekimori Kazue Sasaki Hirotaka Mori****a Shinya Furukawa Akira Onishi Masaharu Suzuki Directors Masafumi Kato Norio Sasaki Toshifumi Ogawa Toshifumi Onishi Fujio Cho Corporate Auditors Standing Corporate Auditors Shigetaka Yoshida Kakuo Ishikawa Corporate Auditors Katsuaki Watanabe Toshio Mita Hans-Juergen Marx Managing Officers Senior Managing Officers Takaki Ogawa Kohei Nozaki Kan Otsuka Taku Yamamoto Managing Officersl Yukihisa Tsuchimoto Hiroaki Asai Takashi Ito Toshiya Yamagishi Junichi Harada Mikihiko Okamoto Hirooki Fujiwara Yasuhiro Murata Yojiro Mizuno Masahiro Kawaguchi Susumu Toyoda Yuji Ishizaki Keizo Hara Kiyotsugu Kurimoto Masafumi Kunito Toshihiko Shimizu Koichi Ito

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