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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/30/2020 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Hi, I have identified a problem with my front o/s wheel bearing on my 2004 2.0 D4D. The car has amassed some 207,000 miles, which is pretty good going. I have reasonable mechanical skills, so I have purchased a replacement front wheel bearing c£35 and a small 6 ton press £45. However, reading the manual I note that there is an Inner Raceway, which according to good practice is normally replaced. This inner raceway is a bit of a pig to get off (not having the SST) requiring cutting a diagonal groove, then chiselling out. My questions are: 1. Where I can get this part from? 2. Given the mileage of the car is it actually worth replacing, in other words can I just replace the bearing itself? many thanks
  2. 1 point
    hi, ive got a 2003 rolla and its got full service history, its got 100,000 miles (motorway miles) on the clock i was wondering if thats a problem for a car like this? will i lose power? will there be an increase in fuel consumption? will there be any problems? im hoping not because its a toyota :) and also its been taken good care of thanks to people who have already given me advice or help on my first car and also for the people who will help in the future :D
  3. 1 point
    Not the trouble-shooting, silly! Just the replacing the bulb bit
  4. 1 point
    Check the Dome fuse under the bonnet
  5. 1 point
    Hi Keith, after reading your earlier post I’ve just sent for a battery meter. I didn’t know they existed but as my car is getting older I thought it pertinent to put one in especially as it fits so neatly in the 12V socket. At least now I can keep a close eye on my battery health & get it sorted if it starts to deteriorate. Cheers.
  6. 1 point
    Door panels is easy to remove a few screws and the rest is clips (trim tool required) Finally, figured out the passenger auto window, i broke down and purchased a module, it works with the non auto switch but the way its built fitting the illuminated auto switch isn't hard bench tested it and it seems to do the trick
  7. 1 point
    On old 2005, there is one harness going to whole of back light housing which includes brake, indicator & reverse lights . The cables on harness are green-white,green-black,green,red-black & white-black. I tried searching for the harness diagram and what signals these carry but got nowhere. I've already tried connecting reversing camera's red to red-black & ground to white-black but nothing shows up on headunit which makes me think these are not the correct wires. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  8. 1 point
    It needs both batteries to start, do you have any way to check the battery voltage eg. a multimeter ? AGM batteries need to be charged low and slow and can take up to 30-50 hours to charge on a normal charger if the 12V battery is low enough it will not have power to close the contactor and/or power the electronics correctly
  9. 1 point
    I would be very interested to know how long you had left the car parked up before your battery went flat. Could be a useful warning for other owners.
  10. 1 point
    Hi, this might be something related to the brake pedal switch, if faulty or disconnected, it looks like the car is stuck in Acc mode and not able to start or goes into ready mode because the ecu doesn’t get signal from the brake pedal when pressed. Maybe good to check that too.
  11. 1 point
    I’ve always used V Power and as well as muting the engine note a little bit (to my ears) it burns a lot cleaner than regular or supermarket fuels - so good in the long run. When I worked at a dealer I asked the techs about this and premium fuels are better for the engines.
  12. 1 point
    It's the Quadlock (Fakra) connector don't go hacking wiring when the adapter is available cheaply (this style is more common to the 107, 207, 307 and c1) Connects2 CT20CT02 or autoleads PC2-86-4 The Quadlock (Fakra) main power and speaker blocks are ISO Standard (Part A) https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Peugeot-Citroen/Citroen_Quadlock_RD4_Head_pinout.shtml if you want a plug for the radio get a SOT lead and cut it in half EG. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOT-040-Peugeot-207-2006-Car-Bluetooth-Parrot-SOT-Lead-T-Harness-ISO-Adaptor/251289535190?hash=item3a820602d6:g:28MAAOSwKwpbFQ1d
  13. 1 point
    Hi all new to the club, have owned my facelift for 3 and a bit years. Been off the road for a year before taken off the road the RAC guy said the fuel pump was struggling and needed replacing. After a couple hours sat it would go for about 30ish miles fine. Any help much appreciated 👍
  14. 1 point
    Hi, If thats the problem, then replacing the whole fuel pump assembly probably worthwhile after 16 years. However , it could Also be a partially blocked filter due to a dirty / rusty fuel tank so you need to ensure thats all ok first. Have read that on earlier models the fuel filler pipe to tank, being metal , could also corrode and even leak. Access the the fuel pump assembly under the rear seat on the standard models, would think the TS is the same ..
  15. 1 point
    I think it's nearly impossible to make changes to the cars software or battery management. Lets say you fill the boot with batteries. The car must understand that it's native hybrid battery has been extented, and now must work as one large unit, even if the voltage is different. It's like inserting a SD card in your computer and trying to merge it with the harddrive.
  16. 1 point
    Gentlemen, thank you for your contribution. It's this critical spirit I've been looking for. So for the moment we've collected 3 very important points. 1) Invalidate the warranty. 2) You risk destroying something and throw away a lot of money. 3) The electric motor of the Hybrids is not very powerful and does not hold at normal trafic speed. And I would add: 4) It takes up a lot of space in the luggage. 5) It costs a lot of money and you can't get it back by saving gasoline. 6) ......
  17. 1 point
    Apart from the warranty serious problem, I find it a bit pointless to try making plugin hybrid from a car with such a weak electric motor. Even you will have enough electricity for lets say 20-30 kilometres, the motor will be still so weak that during acceleration the car will still start the ICE. And trying to keep the driving and acceleration in the EV zone only for such long distances will be a nightmare. Especially with other vehicles around you. I have the 2.0, it has on paper a bit more powerful motor and bit bigger battery. But even so, with 7 out of 8 bars of battery and selected "EV Mode" button, in a parking lot I have experienced starting the ICE on the ramp to the next floor.
  18. 1 point
    I assume you don't intend to maintain any warranty coverage on the car? as any such modification would certainly render any warranty or drive-train, hybrid and electric system invalid.
  19. 1 point
    Hi Guys can anyone tell me if the Oil Pump on a Corolla 2zz engine can be replaced with the engine in place or do I need to remove the engine Thanks Mal
  20. 1 point
    The car is a Toyota Corolla Compressor 1.8 2005 can anyone help with my question Thanks Mal
  21. 1 point
    I'm in West Berkshire and I was stopped by two separate police checkpoints today asking where I was going from/to. Luckily I had a receipt from a local grocer to show as proof of journey. Going out for just a drive rather than a valid reason isn't good enough for our local coppers. I'm out on a bike ride tomorrow and it'll be interesting if they stop me again. We have a lot of boy racers at the moment and late night "dogging" which may account for the checkpoints. A mate in the army has just had his fortnight's leave cancelled, but he doesn't know any more yet. I feel sorry for those that won't be able to pick their new RAV4 up for the foreseeable. I just hope that a '20 plate can be collected before the '70 plate is out. Make sure you ask for it to be registered as close to pick-up as possible. I just hope that I can keep driving until the army really lock us down, just a mattern of time I think. I've just cancelled my cycling holiday in Greece for August as I'd rather lose the small holding deposit than claim for the whole lot. I can't see things going back to normal by Summer. Just wait, we'll have a scorcher with no beaches, parks, campsites or BBQs to enjoy. LOL... They think Wimbledon is going ahead... yeah, right! Be safe out there and be polite to the coppers if stopped 😉
  22. 1 point
    Hi, the higher octane fuel I have used few times did not make any change in performance or consumption where some additives did with noticeable effect. I think using a standard petrol and put the additive you like is better option, as you don’t actually know what additives are in the higher octane petrol, but you can make your own choice add it to the tank yourself, if you want to achieve better performance, fuel consumption or to clean the fuel system. Last time I used a higher octane petrol was a big mistake, the petrol quality was so poor for some reason that the car didn’t want to go at all, felt like I have all 4 tyres punctured. Just find which garage your car likes the most and fill up mostly from there. General rule is that lower powered cars are more sensitive to fuel quality and additives. When additives are used and there is no change that means there was no need of the additives at first place., perhaps same for the higher octane fuel. Regards
  23. 1 point
    I only get about 50 MPG in my 2012 Plug-in on motorways too, that's with the cruise control stuck at 120 km/h (130 indicated), just under 75 MPH. It's closer to 60 if I slow down to 100 km/h, but sometimes I just couldn't be bothered :)
  24. 1 point
    The figures I meant were those using the HV mode, which is similar to the 'normal' Toyota hybrid running. As to charging - I've only charged at home and the time taken is just over 2 hours from empty to full charge. I've used the drive charge-mode twice, both from Clisham to Stornoway and even then I achieved 85MPG on HV mode. So lugging a heavy battery doesn't seem to cause too much!
  25. 1 point
    Hi everyone new to this and new to toyota recently picked up a t sport and ime wanting to upgrade the exhaust system. But falling down a rabbit hole of all different parts and not sure what fits any suggestions
  26. 1 point
    Fitted the PUMPKIN 7 inch Android 9.0 head unit to my Toyota Avensis and is working fine. It was quite easy to install and I'm learning fast how it all works. Fast boot and sounds as good as the sony I had before but does so much more. This is basically an android phone and an amplifier. So everything you can do on a phone you can do on this. I added a Dab+ to my purchase.
  27. 1 point
    Three of the Rover gas turbine cars are housed at the British Motor Museum, Gaydon, and are usually on display. The last time I was there, Toyota had their Toyota Carina E in the workshop on the ground floor of the collections hall, which they label 'number 1'.
  28. 1 point
    Hi. I can only speak for what we get in the UK. As Frosty says, the built-in one doesn't need a phone connection, but on the UK versions fitted for quite a few years you can get much better traffic data if you link it to a data-enabled phone. Otherwise, it uses RDS-TMC (Traffic Message Channel, part of the Radio Data System). In my experience, TMC traffic is about as much good as the traffic bulletins readout by radio presenters, and about as up-to-date (in other words, not very!). The only benefit is it's displayed on the car's SatNav screen and can generate warning messages if your route is affected. Internet traffic is better, but it's diversion routing and traffic data quality does not match my TomTom, even though Toyota is reputed to get their traffic data from TomTom. In the UK, after 3 years Toyota updates have typically been around GBP £110 each. In addition to the built-in SatNav, I have a 5 year old TomTom which sits on a TomTom beanbag on top of the dash. The magnetic mount is connected to the 12V socket and as soon as the TomTom is dropped onto the mount, or if the car is turned on while it is mounted, it fires up, and shuts down again when removed or the car is turned off. Very convenient. Typically, the free updates last about 8-10 years if you buy the machine near the beginning of it's availability. Mine includes 4 free map updates a year (generally much more up to date than Toyota's), and has a built-in SIM card to get free EU wide traffic data for the life of the machine too. The traffic data has been the best I've ever experienced, and I rely on it so much I always use the SatNav even on routes I know well, and allow it to divert me without asking. More recent models than mine have also included 'lifetime' free traffic camera updates too. From what I hear, recent Garmin SatNavs are at least as good as the TomTom. Again, I agree with Frosty in that a built in SatNav might make the car very slightly more attractive, but it will barely affect the selling price. Adding it to a car that didn't have it fitted at the factory is usually prohibitively expensive, even if possible. A built-in SatNav is certainly more convenient, and very unlikely to be stolen, but the gulf between the quality of the maps, routing and traffic means I would not have paid more than about £100 extra to get it had my last 4 Toyotas not come with it as standard.
  29. 1 point
    Come on now, just who would buy a "Recreational Activity Vehicle with 4-wheel drive" (RAV4) with only front wheel drive? What's the point in that? Such vehicles should rightfully be called 'RAV2' to accurately reflect their lowly status ... Less flippantly, the all wheel drive option is well worth the extra expense if you need or want the security of 4-wheel drive. Living half way up a hill in Wales I want to be able to get all the way home during those two or three weeks of snow every three or four years when we have snow. The system works exceedingly well when needed. The overhead fuel cost is 'marginal' when compared with the differences made by driving style and the weight of each individual's right foot. As above, if you don't need or want all wheel drive then why pay for it? There are plenty of medium to large estate cars available with front wheel drive that, arguably, represent better value than a RAV4. And I'd like to see a campaign to badge the front wheel cars as 'RAV2' to save the blushes of the few that have bought a second-hand RAV4, assuming that it was 4-wheel drive, only to find that it wasen't ... but I doubt that it would get much traction ... 😉
  30. 1 point
    Firstly, Toyota Jemca Reading and Toyota UK Customer Relations have been really good, keeping me up to date. So, a major part was replaced yesterday (can't remember what it was called) which did not resolve the issue. Funny enough Toyota engineering team contacted Jemca after receiving the AA report on the faults to see what had been done and the status. Between them it was agreed they now need to replace the "Booster Brake" (costs £2,500). This they are waiting for which will take a few weeks. Once they have fitted it they are hoping this fixes the issues, then they'll thoroughly test is. Toyota UK are supplying me with a replacement CH-R until everything is fixed and working. I have put in writing my concerns with getting the car back, I am nervous about the thought of driving. They've assured me I will not get the car back until they are 100% happy it is safe. I'll wait to see what happens, and will update you. Thanks also for all your comments. Wish me luck! Steve
  31. 1 point
    I would say no. Outside Japan the Estima was known as the Previa or the Tarago (Australia). Insuring an Estima as a Previa may disguise the fact it is a grey import (ie. a Japanese domestic market vehicle imported into another country). There may also be some differences in parts.
  32. 1 point
    The 2.0 Hybrid is fitted with a P711 type transaxle: HYBRID TRANSAXLE SYSTEM GENERAL GENERAL OUTLINE A P711 hybrid vehicle transaxle is used. Containing the motor (MG2) for driving the vehicle and generator (MG1) for generating electrical power, this transaxle uses a continuously variable transmission mechanism with a compound gear unit that achieves smooth and quiet operation. This hybrid vehicle transaxle assembly consists primarily of a generator (MG1), motor (MG2), power split planetary gear unit, counter gear, final gear, differential gear unit and oil pump. By utilizing a pluriaxial configuration for the generator (MG1) and the motor (MG2), the overall length of the transaxle has been shortened. A compound gear that consists of the ring gear of the power split planetary gear, counter drive gear and parking lock gear is utilized to drastically reduce size and weight. By using high accuracy machining for the gear tooth surfaces, low-loss bearings and an oil sling type lubrication mechanism, driving losses have been reduced resulting in improved fuel economy and reduced noise. This transaxle has a 4-shaft configuration. The power split planetary gear unit, an oil pump and generator (MG1) are provided on the main shaft. The MG2 reduction gear and motor (MG2) are provided on the 2nd shaft. The counter driven gear and the final drive gear are provided on the 3rd shaft. The final driven gear and the differential gear unit are provided on the 4th shaft. A differential pre-torque mechanism is used. Straightline stability and acceleration performance during periods of low load and low differential rotation when the vehicle is being driven normally are ensured. Lubrication for each gear is performed via the trochoid oil pump of the main shaft and final driven gear slinging up ATF. Through the use of a lubrication structure (oil sling type lubrication method) in which the gears sling up ATF, reduction of oil pump drive loss and enhanced transmission efficiency of the powertrain system have been achieved. Also, a water-cooled type oil cooler which optimizes the flow of ATF is used to achieve high cooling performance, resulting in a high efficiency and high output powertrain. *1 Generator (MG1) *2 Oil Pump *3 Motor (MG2) *4 Final Driven Gear *5 MG2 Reduction Gear *6 Final Drive Gear *7 Counter Driven Gear *8 Planetary Ring Gear *9 Power Split Planetary Gear Unit *10 Counter Drive Gear *11 Parking Lock Gear - - *a Main Shaft *b 3rd Shaft *c 2nd Shaft *d 4th Shaft *e Differential Gear Unit *f Compound Gear SPECIFICATION Item Specification Transaxle Type P711 Shift Position P / R / N / D / S Power Split Planetary Gear Unit No. of Sun Gear Teeth 30 No. of Pinion Gear Teeth 23 No. of Ring Gear Teeth 78 MG2 Reduction Gear No. of Drive Gear Teeth 16 No. of Driven Gear Teeth 49 Counter Gear No. of Drive Gear Teeth 53 No. of Driven Gear Teeth 49 Final Gear No. of Drive Gear Teeth 22 No. of Driven Gear Teeth 76 Total Speed Reduction Ratio*1 3.193 Fluid Type Toyota Genuine ATF WS Fluid Capacity Liters (US qts, Imp. qts) 3.8 (4.0, 3.3) Weight (Reference)*2 kg (lb) 96.7 (213.2) *1: The ratio of the combination of the counter and final gears. *2: Weight shows the figure with the fluid fully filled. HYBRID TRANSAXLE SYSTEM CONTROL SEQUENTIAL SHIFT FUNCTION The sequential shiftmatic system enables the driver to select an appropriate shift range among 6 stages of engine braking force by operating the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly). By controlling the engine, generator (MG1) and motor (MG2), this system improves the generation response of the engine braking force. In addition, the engine speed is controlled to maintain high speeds, enhancing acceleration response when the driver depresses the accelerator pedal. By moving the shift lever to S, the automatic shifting mode will be switched to shift range selecting mode. By operating the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly), driving in the shift range selected by the driver is possible, and the accelerator pedal characteristics and acceleration response can be selected. Performing a "-" (downshift) operation with the shift paddle changes the system to a temporary shift range selecting mode when the shift lever is in D. By operating the shift paddle in the same way as when in S, shift range selection is possible even in D. As a result, the level of engine braking force can be selected by operating the shift paddle without the need to remove hands from the steering wheel while driving. In shift range selecting mode, when low shift range is selected, the engine braking force becomes greater during deceleration and the motive force between the accelerator intermediate and fully open range becomes greater during acceleration. Table 1. Acceleration Characteristics when in Sequential Shiftmatic Mode Shift Range Characteristics Low Shift Range Change in the driving force output between when the accelerator pedal is intermediately depressed and the fully depressed position is increased, improving the vehicle response to the driver's pedal operation. High Shift Range Change in the driving force output in accordance with changes in the accelerator pedal depression amount is decreased more than normal, thus enhancing accelerator control making it easy to maintain the vehicle speed during constant-speed cruising. Tip: The sequential shiftmatic system does not indicate that maximum vehicle speed and maximum motion performance have been improved. Also, when the shift lever is moved to S, accelerator characteristics in drive mode (Sport*1, Sport S/S+*2 and Eco) are disabled. *1: Models without adaptive variable suspension system *2: Models with adaptive variable suspension system An S mode position signal is output from the transmission control switch to the hybrid vehicle control ECU when the shift lever is moved from D to S. Then, the system switches to shift range selecting mode in order to enable shift range switching operation using the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly). By performing a "-" (downshift) operation with the shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly) when driving with the shift lever in D, a shift-down signal is output from the shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly) to the hybrid vehicle control ECU the sequential shiftmatic system switches to the temporary shift range selecting mode, which makes it possible to perform shift range selection even with the shift paddle in D. In shift range selecting mode, by performing a "+" (upshift) or "-" (downshift) operation using the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly), a shift-up signal or shift-down signal is output from the transmission control switch or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly) to the hybrid vehicle control ECU, and the shift range is changed. While using the selected shift range as the upper limit, an optimal shift point is automatically selected in accordance with driving conditions. Holding the shift lever to "+" (upshift) in S will change the shift range to the S6 range regardless of the current shift range (S1 to S5). In order to protect the transaxle, when accelerating while any range between the S1 range and the S4 range is selected in shift range selecting mode, sequential upshifts are automatically performed up to the S5 range by exceeding a predetermined vehicle speed in each shift range. The temporary shift range selecting mode with the shift lever in D is canceled in the following conditions: The "+" (upshift) side shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly) has been operated for a certain period of time. The accelerator pedal has been depressed and held for a certain period of time in the same shift range. The vehicle has stopped. The shift lever is moved to any position other than D.* Tip: *: When the shift lever is moved to S, the system changes to the S position shift range selecting mode. Limitations Regarding The Sequential Shiftmatic System Upon receiving a downshifting request issued by the driver through the operation of the shift lever or shift paddle switch (transmission shift switch assembly), this system limits the changing of the shift range if the vehicle speed exceeds the limit speed, and informs the driver by sounding the buzzer in the combination meter assembly. Table 2. Limit Speed for Downshifting Downshift Request Limit Speed (Reference Value) 6 → 5 - 5 → 4 160 km/h (99 mph) 4 → 3 119 km/h (74 mph) 3 → 2 85 km/h (53 mph) 2 → 1 47 km/h (29 mph)
  33. 1 point
    Ooff! ..... And there's me ..... with a tube of 'flexible vinyl cement' to resolve my ills... lol 2sav
  34. 1 point
    It's not the gas that's different but the compressor oil that goes round with the gas. The compressor windings are saturated in the oil so it has to be correct ir burnout will happen.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Rather than getting ratty and endeavouring to be sarcastic with members who have made suggestions as to possible cause, no matter how obvious, it would have helped if you had outlined in your first post what checks you had already made. The attitude isn't helping, and won't encourage other members to reply.
  37. 1 point
    So while within warranty they're trying to fleece poeple off basically.
  38. 1 point
    That seems rather under-handed! Keep maintenance costs low until enough people are buying, then jack the price?! Not cool. As servicing costs factor into TCO for many people, is this mis-representation, if by their own admission they did not fully account for costs?
  39. 1 point
    Yes you are correct. Reverse is red/black and earth is white/black. The Haynes manual has the wiring diagrams which is fairly accurate.
  40. 1 point
    100k Mile Service 02/10/13 Service £ covered from by my service plan Front headlight bulb was replaced and one of the rear number plate bulbs. (i need to check my bulbs more often as i hadn't noticed) Front wiper blade also replaced as it was smearing the windscreen. My driver floor mat has a hole in from my heel, I guess that's done well to make it to 100k, and my passenger one is looking a bit rough so im going to order a new set, to keep on top of even the smallest bit of maintenance. The car is still driving great, and i still have my winter Yokohama's that where fitted last year at 70k miles ! they all have around 5mm left as on the service report. I will definitely be getting these tires again. Im off to Brussells this Christmas for the markets so really glad they still have life left. I have noticed a very small amount of rust spots appearing on the driver door, and roof where the top of the windscreen meets the roof. but by no means anything to worry about. Roll on the winter and xmas. I have no doubt my car will take many more miles.. Stu
  41. 1 point
    I'm not sure if I can claim the highest mileage or not, but my little Go has just clocked up its 2000th mile. ......& I only got it in November 2011! ......the only trouble that I've had with it is, because I only seem to fill it up with fuel just 3 or 4 times a year, (45mpg), the fuel cap is virtually welded to the tank by the suction from within the tank! So far: I done 1936 miles, £231.63 spent on fuel Average price per litre £1.43 175.9 litres purchased Equals 39.09 Gallons Giving average MPG of 45.91 Making it £0.13 per mile! Nice motor I've got here!! Hugo.
  42. 1 point
    I know its an old post, but for comparison I replaced the flywheel and clutch on my Fabia VRS - cost was £1200 - thats ONE clutch replacement, not two...
  43. 1 point
    Hi, Thanks for your replies. I live in Malta so it is not possible for me to show e vehicle to one of you. As i said, I do not think that the noise was there when I bought it however now that I know about it, I am hearing it more. I will however take igormus suggestion and take a video. One when cold and when with normal temp and hopefully the ticking noise will come out. The appt. with the mechanic is this Wednesday so hopefully you will see the video before that. Re. Hearing another rav, i have a friendof mine who has one however I do not think it makes tha ticking noise. I will check again and also let you know. Will try and post the vide later on today. Thanks guys.
  44. 1 point
    See what they say at the service and report back. hopefully its an easy fix.
  45. 1 point
    Ohh David Finally it's working brother Thank u Thank u Thank u
  46. 1 point
    Some information about the Tns 510. When the car battery is connected to the car the 510 receives a memory back-up voltage. When the ignition is turned on, the 510 looks at the SD card and looks at a file called loading.kiwi. This is the units application software and boots up the unit and starts a progress bar along the bottom of the screen. When its finished, it looks at the SD card again for map information. When the ignition is turned off, the memory live feed keeps the application in memory. When the ignition is switched on again, the application runs and checks the map in the SD card and it all works. I suspect that you either have a faulty Tns 510 or maybe the SD card is corrupt. I have a loading.kiwi file for the 510. All you have to do is drop it on a spare SD card and put it in the 510 and take the battery off fot 10mins then re-connect it. Turn the ignition on and the 510 should boot up. When it gets to asking for the map you take out the kiwi SD card and put in the original card that came with the unit. If it doesnt work then i suggest you have a faulty tns 510. I have tested the file in my 510 and it works fine. If you want to try it pm me and i will give you a link to the file David
  47. 1 point
    There is a dead easy fix..............take the keys out! Kingo
  48. 1 point
    WOW at the 251k .... 102k on my T-sport and is no different from when it was on 50 - 60k, Toyota themselves on the otherhand, well thats a different story. I still don't get the oil issue, mine just does not use much oil at all...... must have one of the good ones.....
  49. 1 point
    Hi all, newbie here. I have a 91 previa I recently bought with check engine light on. I was told it could be the cat conv. I retrieved codes 12, 21, 25,26. The van seems to hesitate during recent rainy weather. I'm not sure which 02 sensor it is referring to, but I'm going to check the distributor cap and clean up both sensors. Any and all tips or suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.
  50. 1 point
    *sigh* I love threads like these. I read it the other day and thought "**** that sounds like hard work. Hope I don't have to replace a bulb anytime soon". As luck would have it, I pulled into my driveway this evening and was casually told that my front offside light was out. Then I got told to calm down as it's only a bulb and should be easy to fix.



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