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  2. Jerky at low speeds

    Is it just the rev counter, or is it engine revs actually changing?
  3. Smoking 'Rear end'.

    It is not abnormal for condensation to take place in the exhaust when the system cools down after a run. Then when started up, the hot gases turn the condensate to steam. If its just a puff, not a continuous stream, that's what it could be.
  4. Driving the 2.5 Hybrid RAV 4 2018

    Hi HectorG Thank you for your feedback on the RAV4 Hybrid. The fact it's not the Ferrari of the hybrids it's not a problem to me since I have a natural and organic Speed Limiter - my wife - that would prevent me to do more than 120Km/h (something like 80mph) :-). I guess sometime I would need to change the brand but I have it all setup there is another Japanese brand that I would love to drive: LEXUS :-). Now seriously, I drive Toyotas since 97, I've "sold" Toyotas to all my family and my wife's family too (except my father in law that was a Citroen fan) as to some friends of mine. Note: I'm not a car seller. Regarding driving tips for the RAV4 hybrid, have you got already reached any conclusion? And about the audio system? Do you have the JBL or the base one? What are your findings on it?
  5. Driving the 2.5 Hybrid RAV 4 2018

    Hi Mike Thank you for sharing your thoughts and I´m pretty sure that you'll spend a lot of good times with your RAV 4. I'll for sure share all my findings and feelings with the new car, when I get it. Seams an eternity... I did also entered on a Mitsu PHEV. Here, as it is a PlugIn it's almost offer as company car. The problem is that my boss refused any Plug-in (he's a German diesel car fan so I'm still a bit surprised on how he did accept an hybrid). Here the PHEV costs around 54K € but as company car is less than 32K€. Pure Hybrids (or the Self Charging Hybrids) are treated as a normal car. :-( For me the biggest "attraction" on the Mitsu would be the fact that I would be able to do a full daily run only with battery. The problem would be the monthly Electricity cost for it :-) The down part is that the engine is known to be underpowered for the car thus a big spend of petrol when running out of battery. Well nothing is perfect... The RAV4 Pure Dark costs around 37K€ for company car and 41K€ for normal client. What I loved about this RAV was the peace we feel on driving it- total silence (unless you press hard the accelerator pedal). It feels big, it feels solid, it feels good! My colleague has a Honda CRV 2017 and it feels like a fancy toy with all those colorful displays. RAV seems an adult car :-). Then I miss those details that the European are ahead: hidden usb plug, sac holders at the sides (to hold the MacDonalds food bags :-) ), things that make sense for the day by day and don't need a team of nerds to think about, especially on a familiar SUV. Well we can't have it all and we get the most important: a reliable car from a brand that doesn't fool it's clients.
  6. Clunky gearbox

    One more point to add, if you are going to buy another brand of oil with the same viscosity, make sure it is API-GL4 as this is suitable for soft metal (copper) synchromesh gears as recommended in the Yaris handbook Don't use API-GL5 as this will wear out your copper synchromesh gears. My recommendation is to use the Toyota brand. I recently replaced my Verso gearbox oil (52k miles) as well with the above mentioned part number and had not caused any clunky problem.
  7. Clunky gearbox

    The Yaris (d4d 2010, 6 speed) didn't have any clunky shift problem, but it was due for gearbox oil change at around 50k miles. I specifically asked to put the correct oil, but the dealer lied and put in the generic oil which meant to be used for trucks (4x4 gearbox). The problem was very clunky, difficult to engage gears. As soon as I had the problem, I checked the service invoice and clearly stated 85w-90. I enquired about this and told them that the manufacturer recommends 75w-90. The dealer then changed the story saying it was a typo in the invoice. The the dealer blamed the problem was present before the oil change. At this point I wasn't going to argue with them as I know the problem wasn't there before the oil change. So i ordered the recommended oil from the parts department to get it drained and replaced with: Toyota Manual Gearbox Transmission Oil LV 75W MT 1 Litre (part number 0888581001). You need to buy 3 litre (i.e 3 bottles) and if I remember correctly, the mechanics managed to drain 2.8 litre of oil and he only managed to fill with approx. 2.5 litre as specified in the handbook. The dealer here has also overfilled the oil. This may have contributed to the clunky problem. But I think it is more to do with the viscosity. The gear changes were smooth after using the correct oil.....
  8. Yaris 1.3 auto high revs at speed

    Yeah when the car not serviced regularly it hard to determine when something was last done. Sounds like there quite a few things needing attending with the car. Definitely weigh up the cost and age options of the car to see if it worth going through with these fixes. Though I don't think cars have a maximum mileage, 165k for a partily documented serviced car is pushing the limits. How much more use can you really get ? But let us know how you go.
  9. Clunky gearbox

    Thanks for the insight Perfection. Can you recall the exact brand/product of oil you used. Furthermore, did you change to oil because you were experiencing a clucky gearbox or where you trying to rectify the issue the dealer created. Finally how's the gearbox and gear change now, smooth like should be ? Thanks
  10. Yaris 1.3 auto high revs at speed

    I have not done one, no. I just had a browse through the log book, goes dark after 90000 miles... second owner didn't keep records of services they have done but MOT certs upto 136k miles. I had looked into doing the transmission flush but read lots of bad things if you flush a high mileage car. Service book says for automatic to change transmission fluid every 3 years/30k miles so its due for a change at least. Probably best to assume the last owner did not do a change every 30k miles or do a flush. Next service: Oil + oil filter, air, pollen filters Transmission fluid change or full filter change and flush? Change coolant (flush) as I haven't done this since purchased or 4 years/20k miles Brake fluid change?? the level is fine and it brakes fine On a side note, my car has the engine light on and had 2 mechanics look at it. One said dodgy 02 sensor and nothing to worry about other than fuel economy, the other said a leak between engine block and exhaust when he went under and looked. I have those ODB2 bluetooth scanners, will feedback the code. The other issue when braking there is noise every-time the wheel rotates and I can see the disc edge hitting the calipers although the pads don't look worn. This only started on drivers side front disc after a tyre change and the guy used impact gun and didn't torque it. I will remove and torque it down and see if that fixes it. Some work to keep me busy.
  11. Clunky gearbox

    My experience with dealer, they put in generic 85w-90 which was a wrong viscosity and wrong API for Yaris and this causes shifting problem. I had to buy the oil with the correct type and ask my indi mechanic to drain and put in the correct type. So don't let the dealer ruin your gearbox. A significant difference between 75w and 85w.
  12. Error Code P2226 On Rav4 2.0 D4D.

    I have the same problem. I change thise sensor (manifold absolute pressure sensor / barometric pressure sensor) but toyota still doesnt work good. Someone can help me?
  13. Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed

    Ok mate no probs photos would have been good but thanks anyway.
  14. Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed

    The window runner is attached to the glass via a plastic plate , This has cracked causing the glue to be loose . The clip is held on the runner by a bolt which I removed and then drilled the plastic bracket and fitted another nut and bolt which in effect clamped the plastic to the glass and then refited the bolt fixing the plastic bracket to the window runner . I did take some photos at the time but now cannot find them sorry
  15. Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed

    Thanks for the replies fellas. One more slight issue has arisen:- my cigarette lighter connection works but seems to be loose so when I put something into it such as an Bluetooth FM transmitter, it wobbles. Any ideas?
  16. Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed

    Yes mate it seems this is the situation. Ac needs to be used regularly which perhaps this wasn't. In any case, I'm debating whether it's worth getting it resolved anyway tbh the front window is more important to myself atm.
  17. Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed

    Probably the gas needs replacing mate but I've been told that garage have to make sure it's just the gas before they refill it anyway. Might just leave it as it won't be used much with the weather in the UK anyways. Don't really want to spend much on this unless I need to tbh.
  18. Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed

    Hello mate. Bought the car for £1300 after the original post had it a month or so. Needed the two front wheel bearings replaced which was £200 so total so far is £1500. Reharding the window issue, I still haven't taken off the door card to have a look at it myself but I read your post and not sure id be able to drill holes into it for a fix. According to the seller, the clip was broken like yours but he apparently replaced the plastic clip but he didn't mention any bolts holding the window to the clip. He said the window was secured to the clip using glue? But he apparently used the wrong type of glue so it came loose again? Did you do the repair byjust unscrewing the door card? Or did you need to unbolt the metal panel behind it also. In addition, was yours a jap or French built model? As maybe the windows are secured to the clips differently on the French built ones? In regards to the glow plug issue the light is still on after it was cleared by an OBD reader for a while. Replacement NGK glow plugs should be around £60 for 4 and I'd like to get them all replaced at once it shouldn't cost more than around £60 again to fit them but that is assuming the haven't siezed in the engine. If they have then it will obviously the engine to come out which would be a lot more costly. I'm looking to get them hopefully replaced before this winter.
  19. Auris Driver's Seat 'Click'

    There is a technical service bulletin concerning this: Ref: BO-0110T-1115 Subject: Clicking noise from Front Seat Models: AURIS Model codes: ADE186; NDE180; WWE185; ZRE185; ZWE186 DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON Some customers may experience and report that sometimes there is a clicking noise from the seat. This TSB is only applicable on the above vehicles which have a Seat Height Adjuster; PRODUCTION CHANGE The amount of free-play of the Seat Height Adjuster mechanism has changed. 12/2014 REPAIR PROCEDURE Please use the below flowchart to determine whether the by the customer reported Clicking Noise is the same as the Clicking Noise described in this TSB Give your dealer a call and reference the bulletin above
  20. Yaris mk1 1.4 D4D advice needed

    I ran my Mk 1 yaris D4d to 146000 miles before moving it on I had a glowplug causing a EML light on which could not be removed and was quoted £500 for the head to be taken off to remove the glow plug , at the time it passed the MOTs with the EML on but from May this year it would be a fail I believe I had window drop off and found a clip was broken This was a easy repair as I done it myself I found the MK 1 Yaris D4D to be a fantastic car but would now be wary of the glowplug issue at the price he is asking
  21. Driving the 2.5 Hybrid RAV 4 2018

    In reply to Heidfirst, the low sales volumes of the RAV4 in Europe don't surprise me because of the domination of German and French car makers despite their increasing unreliability. North Americans (i.e Americans and Canadians) seem to value reliability and cost above perceived status and fashion. On trips to South Africa and New Zealand in the last 12 months I was amazed at the almost total dominance of Toyota in those markets. In New Zealand, in a group of 10 cars passing in the opposite direction, it was not unusual to count 6 RAV4’s! Clearly in those countries reliability is essential, hence the choice of Toyota. I’ve been driving Japanese cars for getting on for 20 years - Toyota, Honda,Subaru and Nissan. The only exception was a Land Rover Freelander 2 (pressure from wife) and that was a disaster in terms of reliability, so got rid and went back to Subaru. I now run a RAV4 Hybrid which I would have bought sooner if it had been available. In reply to Goncas, it’s a very good, if unexciting, drive. Very comfortable, quiet, economical, roomy, cheap to tax in the UK (£20 per annum). As with most Japanese cars, the infotainment systems are a few years behind the Europeans. However, the next model,just announced, looks pretty up to date. I would thoroughly recommend the RAV4 Hybrid. It replaced a Subaru Forester XT which was very quick, but the Toyota seems a much more solid and substantial car. Of course in N. America Subarus are very cheap (unlike in the UK due to the ridiculous mark up of the importers) and seen as almost a budget car, which inevitably means corners are cut with the quality of some items, particularly the interiors.
  22. Yaris 1.3 auto high revs at speed

    I would get the transmission oil changed on the car. Automatic transmission oil changes are commonly done on high mileage cars. Not really a part of scheduled maintenance. This is normally a complete flush, new filter and oil.
  23. Smoking 'Rear end'.

    My 2002 RAV4 diesel emits a small cloud of white 'smoke' on start up, don't notice any when driving, it happens when engine is hot or cold. Any 'nice' suggestions or is it the tipping point?
  24. Aygo complete spare wheel kit & bootliner

    You have mail
  25. Yaris 1.3 auto high revs at speed

    Hello All, thanks for the responses. My car has done about 165k miles and I do service every 6k miles, next one coming up in about 1k miles and have owned it for 4 years . I have mentioned it to a mechanic before but didn't get any idea as to what was wrong with it. I have checked transmission fluid which seems ok so have not changed it but will take it in again to get checked out. When you say oil, you mean transmission fluid or just engine oil? I use fully synthetic 5W 30 as recommended int the manual and if I recall correctly it was the Triple QX brand the garage used. I don't recall the problem going away last time I did a full service and it comes and goes. I will post back if I get it fixed.
  26. Oxygen sensors 2001 Avensis 2.0l cdx Engine:1AZ-FSE

    Thanks, I have read these. I can't help wondering if I should just replace one sensor with a universal one. Presumably I would have to cut the cable to length and fit the plug. But if that fixed one for a small outlay (less than £30 each), I could do the others as well. From what I read the hardest part is getting the old sensors out in the first place.
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