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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Protection against thieves? Well, it used to be called the law but then all sorts of protectional clap trap was introduced by do-gooders and found more easy to enforce than actually stopping the people from taking what doesn't belong to them. Now, you aren't allowed to give the individual who is helping themselves to your property a good pasting. Apparently, one of the most effective deterrents is prayer and the fear of being smited for ones sins by the almighty or in the case of prius catalytic converters, hope that God is looking and lets the jack slip.
  2. 4 points
    There were a few reports in the press a while ago that leasing companies had cars returned at the end of their lease (typically 3 years for company cars) where the charging cable was still in a sealed wrapper. The Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV was mentioned a few times, as it sold like hot cakes and probably still will to some extent as I suspect the primary appeal to business drivers is the Benefit In Kind tax rate more than the purchase subsidy, although the subsidy may well have brought the car into a price range that allowed more company car drivers to choose one. Whilst not conclusive, as some may have charged on a home unit that came wit ha cable and/or charging station that had a cable, my observation from my days of company car use is that many don't even dip the oil during their tenure, so plugging is by no means likely in all cases, especially where the fuel is paid for by the employer.
  3. 4 points
    I think a little of the extra advantage plug-in Prius seem to have over the ordinaire variety is that when you charge the battery it also fills the bit of the HV range that would be almost always empty in the standard car. When I switch mine off at the end of the day, I may have anything from 2 to 7 bars on the HV battery gauge, dependent on whether I approached on the dual carriageway from the south, in which case I'll have been braking from 60 mph down a gentle incline to the last roundabout before entering my village (7 bars) or come in on the coast road at 20-40 mph largely in EV (car's choice) (probably ending up on 2-4 bars). The plugin is like me being able to charge the missing bit somehow and that will explain a small part of the plugin's advantage. A former member of this group (who's now bought a EV and disappeared) previously had a first gen plugin, and he suggested another part of the advantage was the fact plugins used Lithium Ion technology instead of the Prius ordinaire's NiMH, and he believed the former's charge/discharge efficiency was greater.
  4. 4 points
    I would be disinclined to trust your YouTube sources, on the basis that if they're driving at 82mph and trying to be economical (either financially or in terms of fuel), then they're doing it wrong! There's a lot of inefficiency in Charge mode - you're using an inefficient source (the ICE) to put power into the battery with associated transfer losses, then you're getting that power back out of the battery with further associated losses. Whilst not all the power harvesting will be inefficient (the hybrid system is fiendishly clever in siphoning off power that isn't 'needed') the car is set up to do that all the time anyway even when not in Charge mode. In the circumstances you describe, I would suggest that it would be more efficient to charge the car at home and just switch to HV mode during the journey once the EV range drops to approximately the amount of 'town driving' you're going to do at the end of your journey. That will keep enough in the battery to use EV mode in town, without wasting fuel in Charge mode. This is basically what Geoff is describing above, using HV as the default. That only makes sense on long journeys though - don't switch to HV mode and then find you get back home to your charger with EV range to spare! The only time I could see Charge mode having any real value is if you can't charge the car from a socket before setting off. It could then be used on a long run to build up charge for EV driving later on. Even then, the transfer losses mean that I'm not convinced it would work out more to be more efficient overall, but it would give the advantage of reducing local noise and pollution in the built-up area. Personally I'd just stick with HV mode which gives pretty phenomenal returns even on an empty battery. It is at least as good as the Gen4 ordinaire despite the extra weight being lugged around, possibly because it can store more regen charge in the larger battery. Set the cruise to 65mph on the motorway, leave the outside lane to the German dieselburgers, relax and enjoy an easy 70+mpg. Away from the motorway, I'v found mid-90s mpg to be achievable on a warm day when starting with zero EV range, although perhaps not in Yorkshire as you have proper hills up there!
  5. 4 points
    It's not the gas that's different but the compressor oil that goes round with the gas. The compressor windings are saturated in the oil so it has to be correct ir burnout will happen.
  6. 4 points
  7. 4 points
    Thank you for your observations. Most of what you said was with reference to electric only vehicles. All you said I took into consideration but still decided to ditch my Qashqai and bought my first hybrid - a Auris hybrid. Loved it so much I now have a Prius (all Prius are hybrid or plug-in hybrid). The battery now has a Toyota 15 year warranty so long as you have a battery health check every year - free if you have the car Toyota serviced. Even if a cell went down, they are individual cells and can be replaced individually for not a lot of money. Prius has been on the uk market now for 20 years and not a lot go wrong with them, other then what all cars have to deal with ie tyres, suspension, brakes etc. The engineering of the hybrid system as bullet proof as can be. I just done 27.9 miles today in four separate journeys and clocked 81.1 mpg, done in a very comfy car that I think WILL not depreciate as much as you may think. And there is more to like a hybrid then just good mpg. I pretty pleased on the switch and would not now like to go back. Hydrogen may rule the car sales in 30 years, but we living now, and I certainly wont see 30 years time or if I do I will not be capable of driving. So happy with what i got.
  8. 4 points
    I don't really see the point in Toyota going to great lengths to produce a vehicle which is as economic and feasible as possible, to be bought by people who want to take off some of the tweaks. When one sits in the car travelling from A to B, using the worlds dwindling resources as sparingly as possible, is it really necessary for us to be able to imagine what our car looks like from the outside? I am basically a skinflint and I really don't want to spend my time and money on making the outside of my car more acceptable for others to look at. I see blingy wheels as something which makes the car less economical which contradicts my original aim of driving a vehicle which is more economical. I have never admired the prius as a thing of beauty, its appearance is more like a pimple on the road surface. What I do admire is the uncompromising excellence of engineering and the fact that a company is willing to manufacture a vehicle which looks less appealing in order not to sacrifice aerodynamic gains and savings. Having said all that, to each their own.I have seen hybrid cars with empty roof racks, I park near to one on most days of the week. I see them with low, unchecked tyre pressures, I see them with the more expensive low profile wide and high drag tyres.
  9. 3 points
    1971 Toyota Crown

    © Gaynor Evans

  10. 3 points
    Ever since I have owned a car, I have done my own oil service. This is the first time I have done an oil change with my current car. It was last done July 2015 before I owned the car. I did some research and bought the oil filter removal tool - The other problem was getting the correct oil (0w-20) which is quite expensive. I bought my oil from Euro car parts at £30 plus the oil filter. My earlier post below mentions the "wrong" grade by some of the major sellers. My drive is raised about 1.5ft above the ground level of my house, so I can access the under side without using ramps or jacks and stands. The under tray hatch is secured by three push fasteners - same as on the engine covering. Just push the centre of the fastener in, then pull the the outer to remove. Very easy. Old filter and gasket. Oil filter housing with new gasket plus the new oil. Sump plug before draining. Location of the oil filter under the car. Note the additional new fibre washer on the sump plug. The new filter also came with a smaller plastic attachment and seal for a different type of fitting. These were not needed. When everything was replaced, tightened and checked again, I reset the fasteners by pushing the centres out, then placing them with position after closing the under tray hatch. Press the centres home to secure the fasteners. Then refill the engine with the new oil. The key point is, Toyota saw fit to add the hatch to the under tray, instead of having to remove the whole lot, like other cars. That is a major time saving point! The only thing I may need to do in the future is the auxiliary belt. When I last checked it, the belt was fine. Probably get a spare.
  11. 3 points
    Experiment complete. Came home, all eight bars green, and came up the drive in reverse. By the time I was at the top, only six bars green. Neutral and coasted back to the gate. Neutral doesn't charge the battery, so at the gate, I selected reverse again and drove hard back up. Four bars green, and then repeated, then two bars green. Next time up, the engine revved high and at the top, I still had two bars green. Repeated another four times, and each time the engine revved and it stayed at two bars green. After the next one, I was a bit bored so didn't do any more, but it seems that two bars green was the minimum. The car wasn't as eager on the latter runs than on the first few, but it still did well. There you have it. Probably no limit to how far you can reverse. Mick.
  12. 3 points
    I like the white bits looks good to me.
  13. 3 points
    Interesting. The acid test would be to repeat the journey in normal mode. If your 4 plug in charges give you about 130 miles, the remaining 90 miles might use less than 5.8 litres in normal mode, but you'll have to try it and see. My post above didn't intend to detract from the fun of playing with the car's toys- I went through that phase when mine was new, but I drive in lots of traffic and don't have a regular commute to get bored with. I just wanted to say that there's a different kind of driving pleasure in keeping everything simple and relaxed, and the fuel consumption when doing so will be a pleasant surprise.
  14. 3 points
    I happen to live nearby, and like to fly drones; so here are some fresh pictures. Cars are unloading as we speak.. Hopefully ours are here somewhere 🙂
  15. 3 points
    After nine years it isn't unreasonable to need a regas. Five years would be considered pretty good on most cars. My wife's VW only managed two years on its first charge! (Although, to be fair, VW did recharge it under warranty ,and it was still good five years later when we sold it.) The issue, as I understand it, is that the refrigerant gas molecules are small enough to slip through the tiny microscopic pores in every flexible joint, no matter how tightly you seal it. So, over the years, a fair number of them are bound to get away. Nothing particularly suspicious about it.
  16. 3 points
    They are not 100% sealed and, in spite of what some might tell you, do lose some gas over time. The biggest culprit is the compressor's shaft seal. That's why it is recommended to run the system over the colder months. Even around 10 minutes a week is sufficient. I had mine "regassed" last year, local garage, and over the four years it had lost about 30g of refrigerant. Capacity and type of gas should be on a plate under the bonnet. UV dye added to the system, a Sniffer" and/or pulling and holding a vacuum will determine whether there are any potential leaks. All done using a dedicated machine which extracts the old gas and oil and adds the correct amount of gas and oil. My system is essentially tight in spite of the small loss.
  17. 3 points
    I always use my mechanical key to open it. There's an indentation in the plastic which is the same dimension, so you don't mess up the plastic.
  18. 3 points
  19. 3 points
    My main reason for owning my first Prius was not the economy, I just love the looks, the technology of the drivetrain, reliability and the way it drives. I have never driven such a relaxing car as the Prius and I have had many so called premium brands in the past. The economy is obviously a bonus, its as simple as that for me.
  20. 3 points
    The incentives for electric cars remain - albeit reduced. Then again one has to question whether vehicle manufacturers adopted high prices for electric cars to take advantage of the subsidy.
  21. 3 points
    My previous Avensis Executive 2.0. A sudden Lexus infection made me sell it for a RX300 which was a bad decision.
  22. 3 points
    IF the cat is the problem, you could leave your Prius parked in one of those areas where the tealeafs jack the car up and cut out the cat. (they dont know its faulty) and you could claim for a new one on insurance. Just expressing my thoughts in type. 🤔
  23. 3 points
    The so-called eCVT transmission in Toyota Hybrids is generally regarded as bullet proof and nothing like the CVT system in most other cars (including most Honda Hybrids) that have it. The Toyota system (sometimes called a planetary transmission) is fairly uncomplicated with a single central cog (Sun Gear), 3-5 (Planet) cogs around it in a carrier with a ring on the outside with its teeth innermost and meshing to the planet cogs. One is connected to the main electric motor, one to the petrol engine, the other to the wheels. Nothing slips, engages or disengages, swaps cogs etc. There's no clutch or torque converter, it's so simple it's beautiful. If one of the three pieces changes speed, one or both the others must change to compensate - for example: car is stationary, engine starts to charge the battery, the main Motor/Generator (MG) must spin the other way. car starts to reverse (engine not running), MG turns the other way. using cruise control at 60 mph, come to a steep upwards hill: engine revs increase (car stays at 60), MG must reduce rpm proportionally (or even spin the other way). hard acceleration, car speed increases, engine revs stay constant - MG slows (possibly reverses direction) proportionately to car's speed increase. Some nifty graphics are in this page: http://prius.ecrostech.com/original/PriusFrames.htm Conventional CVT gearboxes contain a system of cones with a flexible steel belt and as the cones move closer and further apart the band is squeezed and changes ratio continuously, but this systems needs a clutch or torque converter to handle being stationary with the engine running while in gear. There is a simple diagram in this explanation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission I've driven a number of cars with 'conventional' CVTs, including Mk2 Nissan Micra auto, Honda Jazz CVT, Honda Civic Hybrid and Honda Insight Hybrid and they behave uncannily like each other and the technically different Toyota eCVT in response to accelerator operation.
  24. 3 points
    Have had this car for over 10 years. It's comfortable, reliable and well made. Occasionally it needs some TLC.
  25. 3 points
    2008 yAris and just usual maintenance expenses.. over 350000 and running well..
  26. 3 points
    probably just as well. The 2 manuals for my Prius come to just over 1,000 pages. If there was a printed copy in the car it would probably knock another 1-2 mpg off!
  27. 3 points
    Like some others on this forum, I am not entirely convinced that Toyota is so far behind everyone with EV tech. Their hybrid program has included nearly all if not all technologies require to build a totally electrical car. They have one of the most slippery bodyshells on the current prius and this includes quite wide tyres and a radiator grille-( both items known to cause drag). They have electrical motors able to power the car along, they have kinetic battery recharging technology, electrical power control technology, charging technology and battery technology and mass production experience. Putting a Toyota next to any one of its EV competitors highlights their competitors weakness. Nissan , for example are only successful with small cars with big batteries. Tesla have cracked the range, power and battery issue but the cost of the tech is astronomical.Renault have fallen rather short of the mark made by Nissan but have also gone along the route of putting big batteries into a small car. Nearly everyone else is trying to use their petrol engined chassis as a lack lustre EV or hybrid. Only BMW have really had a good go at things but their very space efficient I3 is a bit of a draggy little lump at cd 0.29. My impression is that for the time being , Toyota are keeping their powder dry whilst battery and motor technology slowly improves to the point where producing a vehicle which will carry 4 persons and their baggage 300miles between fuel ups ( charges ) is commonplace and affordable.
  28. 2 points
    Modern oils are formulated to resist sludging but yes you should be changing the oil per the manufacturers recommendations using the recommended grade. Checking the oil is s different matter. Low oil level is still the most common cause of catastrophic engine failure. Put simply, by the time the oil pressure light is on, it's too late. If you have an oil level indicator these are a help but aren't infallible. If you have a dipstick, take a few minutes a week, if you've driven the car, or each month if you don't drive many miles, and check all the fluid levels, tyres, wipers etc. It's part of the training for any advanced driving qualification. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  29. 2 points
    So you check your oil every 2 years.???..... don't think that's good practice and is very risky.! I use nothing BUT fully synthetic in our Toyotas'....and I check oil levels regularly...it takes but seconds to do.
  30. 2 points
    which is exactly the mistake I made when I got my 4th generation Prius three years ago. Once inside it's very comfortable, but to get the superb aerodynamic drag coefficient (0.24, which at launch was one of the 5 best world production car figures) one thing they did to achieve this was to make the car lower. After about a year I started having hip problems (I'm now 63) which have got steadily worse to the extent getting in and out is now very painful and puts awful pressure on my hips due to the clumsy way I have to do it. It was until the last 6 months that in discussing with my GP Practice's physiotherapy team that the car may have aggravated or even caused the problems. Reluctantly, I've arranged to trade the car for a new RAV4 Hybrid which is currently somewhere en route from Japan (I hope!). Interestingly, two other (slightly older) friends have recently had to change their choice of car for the same reason. Ironically, when I bought my first Mk 1 Prius in 2002, the floor and seats were much higher, and somewhere in the marketing material was a diagram that showed how this made getting in and out much easier!
  31. 2 points
    Our first run in the Prius has been completed and with judicious charging and using the charge mode we completed a 220 mile journey with 5.8 litres of petrol (full to full). That is well over 150 mpg plus 3 full paid charges (about £3) and one free top up in the Flemingate shopping centre. About 75% was EV so we travelled about 55 miles on charge mode. This is about 45mpg. The charge mode seems to generate 1EV mile for every mile travelled so we recovered about 50 EV miles on the journey, so I assume that would be the same as 90mpg in normal HV mode. Whichever way you look at it the Prius PHV is amazing at 4p per mile. None of this was at the cost of slow driving - mainly A roads at speed limits. More results in the future. Tony B
  32. 2 points
    If it had been left in gear (or park if automatic) it wouldn't have rolled: If you park on a hill or slope you should park close to the kerb and apply the handbrake firmly select a forward gear and turn your steering wheel away from the kerb when facing uphill select reverse gear and turn your steering wheel towards the kerb when facing downhill use ‘park’ if your car has an automatic gearbox.
  33. 2 points
    I also had this problem with my 2012 Avensis. The doors wouldn’t lock with the fob but the boot did lock. If I locked manually with the key then unlock worked fine with the fob for the door and the boot. Same issue with the internal locking button on the drivers door, unlock worked but lock didn’t. Two days ago i started repeatedly pressing unlock, then lock, unlock, then lock..... on the locking button on the drivers door. After about 10 seconds the doors locked. Since then it’s been locking as normal with the key fob. Its only been two days and the problem might come back but it’s worth a try for anyone else that has this issue.
  34. 2 points
    Over the last few years I have tried changing the tyres and wheels on several cars - as the tyres get narrower the steering becomes a little easier to turn. For example, a 195/65 x 15 is an easier steer than the exact the same car on a 205/55 x 16. Are the cars you are comparing fitted with the same tyre sizes?
  35. 2 points
    May I try to clarify a few things? Hybrids (basic ones that can't plug it) don't have any worries about the HV (big, High Voltage traction) battery going flat, it's just a store for spare energy to smooth out extra power requirement when the petrol engine on it's own isn't quite enough and to receive 'free' energy from slowing with the accelerator released or while braking. The engines tend to be de-tuned for efficiency and low emissions, the power shortfall being made up by the electric motors helping. A number of manufacturers have coined the term "Self Charging Hybrids" for these, presumably to distinguish them from Plug-in Hybrids and emphasise that not only do you not need to charge them from the main, you can't. Plug-In Hybrids that started to appear around 2012 such as the Plug-in Prius and Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV work just like ordinary Hybrids, and could be used without ever plugging in, but work best if plugged in whenever possible, and especially for people for whom most journeys will be within or almost within it electric only range. They typically only have 20-30 mile range on Battery alone (the first Prius Plug-in was only 9-12 miles), but for some people (me included), they can work quite well, while still being able to tackle long journeys with no inconvenience or repeated charging. Once the battery's electric only range is used up the car then behaves like a normal petrol Hybrid, using a small part of the battery reserved for basic Hybrid operation. Plug-in Hybrids can often do 500-600 miles on a full petrol tank in addition to any electric only driving. So far, the HV batteries of both types seem for be far more reliable and last way longer than anyone (except possibly Toyota engineers) expected in the early days. When Hybrids first came out in the UK in late 1999, they cost £15,500 after a government incentive of £1,000. I had a couple of these, the second of which I kept until it was 9 years old with 163,000 miles on the clock. Even though I got only £500 when I sold it, I kept a record of all running costs and it was the cheapest car to own I've ever had, whether calculating by mile, month or year. Part of this was because of reduced maintenance, only one brake disc/pad replacement in this time on two sets of spark plugs,and very little else. My present Hybrid Prius, for example, can fill up with fuel for about £45 at today's unleaded prices, and then do about 600 miles. The depreciation when I trade it next month for another Hybrid is pretty good for a 3 year old car with about 38,000 miles on the clock. The brakes have about 20% wear, my last Prius had used about 25% at 4 years/60,000 when I traded it for this one. Various governments (both parties in the UK, and many across Europe) gave incentives for diesels for some 20 years because under the right circumstances they produced less CO2 than petrol cars, and CO2 was the big news during most of that time. Unfortunately they were vastly worse for other emissions (NOx especially) which had more immediate impact on health, and governments' own scientific advisers warming of this time bomb fell on deaf ears until too late. Sadly, many people who did mostly short journeys bought diesels because of the Excise Duty advantages, but their type of use meant that many such users got worse mpg than a comparable petrol car, produced even more NOx gases and often had major repair bills because their EGR valves and Particulate Filters didn't get hot enough to clear the waste and clogged up, in extreme cases wrecking complete engines. More recent diesel cars have much better harmful emission performance, but not until they warm up, so they still don't suit low mileage motorists, but can be very good for higher mileage use especially when towing substantial weights. EVs (pure Electric Vehicles) on the other hand still get a subsidy, but smaller than before, and are still expensive even with it. According the this article, the AA polled more than 19,000 motorists and "35% thought the premium commanded by electric vehicles (EVs) was too high". I would have like to gone electric, but lack of a spare wheel is another issue for me. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/third-of-drivers-wont-go-electric-until-prices-fall-study-shows/ar-AABkQQk?ocid=spartanntp
  36. 2 points
    Does the car break function correctly? I guess you just lost the ABS option, so in case of hard breaking, the wheels will lock. According to what you say, the car can be driven just fine, you just dont have the ABS to prevent wheels from locking in case of some hard braking.
  37. 2 points
    Hmmm, I'm no expert, so casting around for other ideas.... so, if not the wheel bearings (you've done well, replacing them all), then a worn CV joint? A worn joint somewhere in the suspension? Seeing another of your posts, the car's done quite a mileage - is it possible the engine's dropped, and the rumble noise is the engine sitting on a failed engine mounting, and the engine vibration is being transmitted through the body? I assume the exhaust's not so close to the bodywork that there's contact when the engine moves slightly. Whatever the fault, I'd be reluctant to do more work until confident I'd identified the problem. Has the rumble slowly crept up, or did it seem to appear after some work had been done on the car? Never easy to identify, with having tyre noise, which can get worse as the tyres wear. OldCodger is very knowledgable with having a 1.6 Corolla, and I expect he'll have some wise words for you, Hopefully he'll be along soon ☺️
  38. 2 points
    It will be the high level brake light seal. I had a wet boot on mine and I didn't fancy messing around with sealant,so I bought a complete unit with a, supposedly, upgraded seal as you can't get the seal on its own. No more wet boot 😀Also try putting a bit of sealant around the 2 little stops at the corners of the boot as they can, sometimes, be the culprits.
  39. 2 points
    The genuine Toyota hub/bearing and ABS sensor unit was quoted as £356 by my local Toyota dealer for our 04 1.3 Yaris a little while ago when I did one of mine. Therer are lots of pattern spares on e bay for around £28-£40. However I bought one which fixed the ABS problem I had but then had an MOT advisory for play in the (new) bearing. After much hassle I got a refund and ordered another from a different supplier. I fitted that one and there was play in it, again more resistance to giving me a refund. Different makes but both faulty. I eventually bought from these https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/carpartsgermany2016?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 It is a very easy job although the 4 shoulder securing bolts need a long socket extension to get at and soaking in penetrating oil helps to free off these very tight bolts. By the time I had done it 3 times I could get one off and a new one fitted in about 1/2 an hour. You need a tiny flat screwdriver to push down a plastic tab that holds in the sensor to the hub. Good luck with it
  40. 2 points
    Like I say, 8 bars lit doesn't mean full - at least, not straight away. Maybe the Yaris is different, but on Prius 1.5 & 1.8 Hybrids I've driven, the very few times I've experienced a truly maxed battery is after more like 3-4 miles on a 20% gradient. I never experienced it at all for over 3 years and some 70,000 miles until a trip to Scotland. Once the battery maxes out, on hitting level ground it behaves like a true EV as the system tries very hard to make some room for more regenerated power. I wish I could find it now, but some years ago someone published a great colour diagram showing the charge levels for each bar - there was some overlap, and the gauge would change at a different point depending on whether the SoC (State of Charge) was increasing or decreasing, and not all bars cover the same range. IIRC, bars 2 and 8 cover a bigger band than any others.
  41. 2 points
    That's quite an interesting way of setting things out Frosty. Carina II 1.6GL (1989). No mechanical faults. This was dads car. Carina II 1.6XL (1990) Clutch and flywheel replaced in first year. Known issue following change to asbestos free linings. Central locking switch/motor drivers door replaced under warranty. Carina E 1.6GL (1994) Central locking fault repaired under warranty. Instrument cluster replaced under warranty (gauges and rev counter would fall to zero). Corolla TSport (2002) Weeping front shock absorber at around four years old. Only 3 yr warranty back then. No other faults in 8 years. Corolla 1.4 4 door (2003). This one was built in Turkey. Sticking brake caliper at 14 years old. We still have the car. Auris 1.33 (2010) no faults.
  42. 2 points
    I am a little concerned with having the registration in September, I am a female who works in an all male environment and can hear the jokes already 😉, I have emailed Toyota UK to ask if there is a supply and demand issue and also emailed my dealership to see what they say.
  43. 2 points
    I take it you meant 155 not 115 ? Confused me that lol.
  44. 2 points
    Hi Keith. Even though I have many, many years of mechanical experience I had to quit 12 years ago on medical grounds and Cat's on cars hadn't been out long on the scale they is now, hence my inexperience with Cat's, DPF's etc etc. so I thank you for your explanation. When I bought my 2012 Rav the government were pushing us into diesels hence why I bought one, now they are trying hard to get us all out of them. My personal Rav, a 150 D-Cat has yet to reach 17K so a petrol would suits me better but it's a perfect car so am reluctant to part with it as the money I would get for it I feel it's better to keep it, incidentally I have no idea if it has ever re-gen but it runs perfectly and does at least one good run every week, my wife is out in it to day, a 60 miles round fast trip. Thanks again, Mike.
  45. 2 points
    Thanks to inspiration from Craig here, this is my version for my wife who hated the limitation of the stock basic cd player and radio and wanted more features including DAB radio. I decided to go the 3d-printed route rather than use too much filler, so after cutting out an aperture, I designed a suitable cradle to receive a stock DIN radio but with a flange on the right side to accommodate usb lead that fitted into the rear of the Pioneer radio I got cheap from Halfords. My wife's fascia is metallic, glittery black and I managed to find a can of spray paint from Halfords that was pretty close, but as you can see I'll need to sand back and respray the entire fascia the same colour at some stage. I will take more photos of exactly what I did from the rear when I do that, but in the meantime I have attached my 3D-print design and the (almost) final result, which has worked well for three months so far. Note - I printed from PETG plastic as PLA would melt in summer
  46. 2 points
    Yes. But in the scheme of things, the difference won't be genuinely noticeable. They improve the aerodynamics. Less of a difference at low speeds, and more at high speeds. They also add weight so some of these gains are negated. While they do make a tiny difference, and while all these tiny differences do add up, removing one isn't a big deal. The weather, the way the music on the radio unconsciously affects your driving style, tyre pressure, and so on, all make way way bigger differences.
  47. 2 points
    I have no idea how good/bad these are https://m.spaccer.com/en_GB/bestellen.html
  48. 2 points
    Exactly what I fitted last year, and the previous one was a Bosch, but they say Varta make the batteries for Bosch and this time the Varta were cheaper.
  49. 2 points
    Unable to say what battery my Corolla originally fitted with, but just before I acquired the car in 2013, the present Varta 3 year battery was fitted, & and still doing well. It is a Type 027, 60 Ah & 540 CCA. I suspect it is the same physical size as the OP's, but of much higher capacity.
  50. 2 points
    Hi all, New review of the Excel 2WD on Carwow for those who might be interested.

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