Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I don't really see the point in Toyota going to great lengths to produce a vehicle which is as economic and feasible as possible, to be bought by people who want to take off some of the tweaks. When one sits in the car travelling from A to B, using the worlds dwindling resources as sparingly as possible, is it really necessary for us to be able to imagine what our car looks like from the outside? I am basically a skinflint and I really don't want to spend my time and money on making the outside of my car more acceptable for others to look at. I see blingy wheels as something which makes the car less economical which contradicts my original aim of driving a vehicle which is more economical. I have never admired the prius as a thing of beauty, its appearance is more like a pimple on the road surface. What I do admire is the uncompromising excellence of engineering and the fact that a company is willing to manufacture a vehicle which looks less appealing in order not to sacrifice aerodynamic gains and savings. Having said all that, to each their own.I have seen hybrid cars with empty roof racks, I park near to one on most days of the week. I see them with low, unchecked tyre pressures, I see them with the more expensive low profile wide and high drag tyres.
  2. 4 points
    I got my Gen2 new in Jan 2007, and 12 years & 107K virtually trouble-free miles later have just handed it on to my newly-married daughter. I say virtually as a couple of years ago the ABS warning lights came on, but this turned out to be a problem with the sensor and not an ABS fault. I've replaced the 12v battery once and the exhaust system once. There's no way I would give my daughter a car that I didn't think was totally reliable. No technical info to share, but for what it's worth in my view if you've got £5K to spend on a 2nd hand car, you could do a hell of a lot worse than a Gen 2 Prius.
  3. 3 points
    Ever since I have owned a car, I have done my own oil service. This is the first time I have done an oil change with my current car. It was last done July 2015 before I owned the car. I did some research and bought the oil filter removal tool - The other problem was getting the correct oil (0w-20) which is quite expensive. I bought my oil from Euro car parts at £30 plus the oil filter. My earlier post below mentions the "wrong" grade by some of the major sellers. My drive is raised about 1.5ft above the ground level of my house, so I can access the under side without using ramps or jacks and stands. The under tray hatch is secured by three push fasteners - same as on the engine covering. Just push the centre of the fastener in, then pull the the outer to remove. Very easy. Old filter and gasket. Oil filter housing with new gasket plus the new oil. Sump plug before draining. Location of the oil filter under the car. Note the additional new fibre washer on the sump plug. The new filter also came with a smaller plastic attachment and seal for a different type of fitting. These were not needed. When everything was replaced, tightened and checked again, I reset the fasteners by pushing the centres out, then placing them with position after closing the under tray hatch. Press the centres home to secure the fasteners. Then refill the engine with the new oil. The key point is, Toyota saw fit to add the hatch to the under tray, instead of having to remove the whole lot, like other cars. That is a major time saving point! The only thing I may need to do in the future is the auxiliary belt. When I last checked it, the belt was fine. Probably get a spare.
  4. 3 points
    The so-called eCVT transmission in Toyota Hybrids is generally regarded as bullet proof and nothing like the CVT system in most other cars (including most Honda Hybrids) that have it. The Toyota system (sometimes called a planetary transmission) is fairly uncomplicated with a single central cog (Sun Gear), 3-5 (Planet) cogs around it in a carrier with a ring on the outside with its teeth innermost and meshing to the planet cogs. One is connected to the main electric motor, one to the petrol engine, the other to the wheels. Nothing slips, engages or disengages, swaps cogs etc. There's no clutch or torque converter, it's so simple it's beautiful. If one of the three pieces changes speed, one or both the others must change to compensate - for example: car is stationary, engine starts to charge the battery, the main Motor/Generator (MG) must spin the other way. car starts to reverse (engine not running), MG turns the other way. using cruise control at 60 mph, come to a steep upwards hill: engine revs increase (car stays at 60), MG must reduce rpm proportionally (or even spin the other way). hard acceleration, car speed increases, engine revs stay constant - MG slows (possibly reverses direction) proportionately to car's speed increase. Some nifty graphics are in this page: http://prius.ecrostech.com/original/PriusFrames.htm Conventional CVT gearboxes contain a system of cones with a flexible steel belt and as the cones move closer and further apart the band is squeezed and changes ratio continuously, but this systems needs a clutch or torque converter to handle being stationary with the engine running while in gear. There is a simple diagram in this explanation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission I've driven a number of cars with 'conventional' CVTs, including Mk2 Nissan Micra auto, Honda Jazz CVT, Honda Civic Hybrid and Honda Insight Hybrid and they behave uncannily like each other and the technically different Toyota eCVT in response to accelerator operation.
  5. 3 points
    probably just as well. The 2 manuals for my Prius come to just over 1,000 pages. If there was a printed copy in the car it would probably knock another 1-2 mpg off!
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    I purchased two pouches from E-bay; one for my set of car keys and one for my wife's set.. I tested both pouches on receiving them. Keith has already pointed out with the keys in the pouches the car doors would not open. My wife forgot her keys were in the pouch in her handbag and after shopping tried to open the car. the car would not open. They are very effective. There are two sections in the pouch the keys must be in the "gold" cloth rear section. The front section "white" can be used for credit card.
  8. 3 points
    Cars are not accident prone. Drivers are.
  9. 3 points
    I'm surprised you say that, I had a 2000 and 2011 Yaris and with the rear seat slid fully back there was loads of room for four fair sized adults. Even when we went for a weekend away with 2 friends and we all had overnight bags, with the rear seat half way back all the luggage went in the boot and everyone still had enough leg and head room. Sadly, the same cannot be said of Yaris from 2012 onwards, I simply couldn't consider one as there's too little legroom in the back and headroom even worse. Not to mention the generous interior oddments space of earlier models became one very small glovebox and virtually nothing else.
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    No I am NOT going to break out in song........ Its what a difference this nice summer type weather in February is making to my mpg Here is my very latest Prius Gen4 mpg. Sunday 24th Feb was a return journey of 8.5 miles each way. Tuesday 25th Feb, we travelled about 18 mile to Warrington, then moved around that town, Wed 26th Feb Was a return trip to Sheffield area. Today 27th Feb Was 2 return journeys in the local area, largest of which was 5 mile each way, so mostly on cold engine starts. I very impressed with these figures, cant wait for the real summer to come. I just love my Prius.
  12. 3 points
    Hi, Your garage should not have made you a quotation or told you 'to keep an eye on it'. On my mk1 Aygo, the water pump started to leak very early. One day, I brought my car for regular servicing and I was asked to schedule a day rapidly to have the water pump changed. It was replaced under warranty. Your situation is usual with car dealerships. As long as the car is under warranty, there is nothing to worry about, it can wait. And as soon as the warranty has expired, everything needs replacing urgently 😄
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    The displayed range after a full charge is not directly proportional to your battery capacity, it is based on previous journeys and other data. Your efficiency will be down during winter due to lower ambient temperatures. The battery will generate heat while charging, but that's not enough. Li-ion batteries like operating temperatures closer to 20 degrees.
  15. 3 points
    Like some others on this forum, I am not entirely convinced that Toyota is so far behind everyone with EV tech. Their hybrid program has included nearly all if not all technologies require to build a totally electrical car. They have one of the most slippery bodyshells on the current prius and this includes quite wide tyres and a radiator grille-( both items known to cause drag). They have electrical motors able to power the car along, they have kinetic battery recharging technology, electrical power control technology, charging technology and battery technology and mass production experience. Putting a Toyota next to any one of its EV competitors highlights their competitors weakness. Nissan , for example are only successful with small cars with big batteries. Tesla have cracked the range, power and battery issue but the cost of the tech is astronomical.Renault have fallen rather short of the mark made by Nissan but have also gone along the route of putting big batteries into a small car. Nearly everyone else is trying to use their petrol engined chassis as a lack lustre EV or hybrid. Only BMW have really had a good go at things but their very space efficient I3 is a bit of a draggy little lump at cd 0.29. My impression is that for the time being , Toyota are keeping their powder dry whilst battery and motor technology slowly improves to the point where producing a vehicle which will carry 4 persons and their baggage 300miles between fuel ups ( charges ) is commonplace and affordable.
  16. 2 points
    A 2006 car will use the older R134a refrigerant.
  17. 2 points
    As above...if your system is sound and the job is done right then you should not need a re-gas every year.
  18. 2 points
    I couldn't agree more. I was very pleased to be able to chose the top trim on my current Prius, and still order it with 'sensible' (IMHO) wheels. My last Gen 3 Prius was the most basic version (to get 15" wheels), but still had everything I really wanted (once I'd paid my dealer to install the switch to get the otherwise fully fitted cruise control system working!). My Gen 1 Prius had 14" wheels with Low Rolling Resistance tyres, and though I don't drive like I'm on an interview to work for Top Gear, I do sometimes drive in quite a spirited (but safe and legal) fashion, and I've never found these 'normal profile' tyres lacking. I choose plain white paint whenever possible, because I won't pay extra for something that does nothing for me, and it saves a little on a/c when the sun is on the car. It never ceases to amaze me just how much cooler mine feels to the touch even in low power spring sun, compared to my friend's dark grey Yaris, which often feels almost too hot to touch. Having said all of that, despite my 4th Gen Prius being the best car I've ever had (apart from auto headlights that seem determined to cause an accident when they come on suddenly at inopportune moments), it has one other big drawback that has forced me to go against the grain and trade it for a car that is far less frugal (when the damn RAV4 Hybrid finally arrives) - one downside of the world beating aerodynamics is the low stance of the car, that has exacerbated (maybe even caused or aggravated) a problem with my hips that has arisen since I got it. Getting in and out has become a painful (and often noisy!) experience. Before anyone says bigger wheels might have helped, the 17" ones are actually the same diameter at the outer edge of the rubber, just more metal and less air/rubber. It's a step backwards, but at least it drives as nicely as the Prius, has all the Hybrid benefits (but massive 18" wheels* and the aerodynamics of a house brick). At least with the updated Hybrid system it's environmental and energy consumption performance is relatively good for a vehicle that's in most respects unnecessarily large (for my needs), though is as relaxing end involving to drive as the Prius, has a spare wheel and digital instruments... AND doesn't make me shout when I get in and out! Like my Prius it should also manage around 600 miles out of a single tank (admittedly because it's a much bigger tank!). [* the space saver on the RAV4 looks bigger than the mains wheels on my Prius!]
  19. 2 points
    Yes. But in the scheme of things, the difference won't be genuinely noticeable. They improve the aerodynamics. Less of a difference at low speeds, and more at high speeds. They also add weight so some of these gains are negated. While they do make a tiny difference, and while all these tiny differences do add up, removing one isn't a big deal. The weather, the way the music on the radio unconsciously affects your driving style, tyre pressure, and so on, all make way way bigger differences.
  20. 2 points
    Hi Benjamin, welcome to TOC 🙂 Here in the UK afaik we didn't get the option of JBL, however, according to grade, you got a 6 or 9 speaker system. Tbh neither will astound you. It's more expensive to replace ones that are also built-in satnav.
  21. 2 points
    Have had this car for over 10 years. It's comfortable, reliable and well made. Occasionally it needs some TLC.
  22. 2 points
    I paid 11k for mine, ex demonstrator, had about 4k on the clock,was under 12 months old, here we are getting on for 9 yeas later ,and apart from tyres and wiper arms,its only ever had a battery change, and i'm still doing a daily 92 mile commute with it.you only get what you pay for,aygo is built to a budget and its cheap to buy ,and it shows. I'd probbly be on my 2nd or 3rd aygo by now in that time, so in my head my iq3 is the better buy
  23. 2 points
    A quick update on this. Firstly, thank you to all you responded & gave me lots of things to consider when it came to finding a suitable car My brother and I took my mother to see some Aygo's and Yaris's and TBH Mum preferred the Aygo so we set about finding her one. We upped our budget a little and last weekend we picked up a 2014 Aygo with 40k on the clock & FTSH for £3.5k which our mother is delighted with & we thought was a good buy for the money. Cheers Martin
  24. 2 points
    2008 yAris and just usual maintenance expenses.. over 350000 and running well..
  25. 2 points
    My original battery was a small one like yours, which failed after 5 years, I then replaced it with the 60ah Bosch one which lasted about 7 years and replaced with the above Varta 60ah brand last year Never had any alternator or electrical problems and starting even in the coldest weather is easy, so that dismisses your above possible charging problems, which would only happen if you increased the battery capacity by an excessive amount. The Bosch or Denso alternators used on the 2006 Corollas have an output rating way above the 60ah of these larger batteries. Don't forget on our older cars, the alternator is not that Smart, its adding load to the engine all the time If you talk to any experienced car electrical guys they always say go for the next size up (ah ) on older cars. You can talk to Toyota but doubt they will recommend anything thats not within their original specification. ie 45ah.
  26. 2 points
    Unable to say what battery my Corolla originally fitted with, but just before I acquired the car in 2013, the present Varta 3 year battery was fitted, & and still doing well. It is a Type 027, 60 Ah & 540 CCA. I suspect it is the same physical size as the OP's, but of much higher capacity.
  27. 2 points
    This has been the case on every aircon-equipped car I've driven, and certainly not unique to Toyota. Turning on the aircon demists the screen very quickly, but if you then turn the aircon off the residual moisture trapped in the system evaporates and steams the screen up again. In damp weather to avoid this problem you've really either got to leave the aircon running continuously or just never use it at all. Exactly the same as on the VWs, Fords, Peugeots etc I've owned with aircon too.
  28. 2 points
    The point, as I see it, is that government environmental regulations will soon make pure ICE power units impossible. The only way to get the emissions under the proposed new limits will be hybrid or electric power units. Hybrids in their present form are too complicated and expensive. The perfect vehicle should not need two different types of power unit bolted together. The sooner we can get rid of the ICE bit, the better. Hybrids are merely a stop-gap until battery technology is good enough to get you further than to the shops and back. Ideally, we need a range between charges of greater than 300 miles. The benefit of electric vehicles to the individual driver is debatable. The benefit to society as a whole is easier to see. The days of burning as much fuel as you can afford are long gone (although the petrolhead in me still feels a slightly guilty sense of sadness).
  29. 2 points
    Good morning everyone, Thank you to everyone who has completed the survey so far - there's been over 50 responses which has been fantastic - great to see such an active community. I've been pulling together some design concepts and prototypes and taking onboard some of the feedback I've read here e.g. MPG vs m/kwh. I'm on annual leave this week and will be posting links to a prototype and opportunity to feedback on my return! Thanks again! 🙌 Karim
  30. 2 points
    Hi all, New review of the Excel 2WD on Carwow for those who might be interested.
  31. 2 points
    Toyota Owners Club uses forum software provided Invision Community - the same as a number of forums such as Ford Owners Club. Invision also provide a bulk e-mail facility to enable users to contact members. Toyota Owners Club does currently have a spring sale for Premium membership as per the club's Facebook page and the topic posted yesterday in General Discussions. If you wish to take advantage of the offer, you can use the link provided in the topic below or on Facebook, rather than the e-mail link.
  32. 2 points
    Firstly, thanks for posting this as I wasn't even aware of the app! Works great on my Yaris! You mentioned the OBDII adaptor. Well, since starting to use Torque a couple of years ago, I grew dissatisfied with the cheap eBay adaptors I was using at the time because they were so unreliable, even with Torque. The first "more expensive" one I tried was Carista and this improved things a lot. Still had the odd glitch but I could live with it. When Hybrid Assistant came out, I was still using the Carista and it worked well initially but as the app got more and more advanced, the shortcomings of the Carista started to become apparent in terms of its scan speed. Eventually and since I was using and relying on HA a lot, I bit the bullet and purchased an OBDLink LX from Amazon for £79.50 (got a -£6 promotional offer on the full £85.50 at the time) and I might add that this wasn't because of HA's recommendation, it was more to do with user reviews across a range of OBDII adaptors and I wanted the best available at the time. I am glad now that I did as the OBDLink LX has proved to be worth every penny in use and 100% reliable for what it does. One of the major advantages of the more expensive OBDLink LX is the 3-year warranty and the fact that it can get firmware/software updates from the supplier and because of these factors, I would highly recommend it for serious/continuous use (it also has a sleep mode when the car is off).
  33. 2 points
    As Frosty says you have rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, don't let them talk you out of them.
  34. 2 points
    I thought I better wash my car it's been a while!
  35. 2 points
    it's probably theoretically possible if you have enough cash, there is enough room for it, you can get someone to reprogramme or replace the car's ECU etc. etc. - probably cheaper/easier to just sell it & buy a faster car to start with ...
  36. 2 points
    Yep! Mine's going to my dealer today for the swap (and I'll be borrowing a RAV4 Hybrid demonstrator for 24 hours from them at the same time).
  37. 2 points
    The rear seats have great flexibility I agree, but I'm over 6ft and passenger space is limited compared to my previous auris and avensis. Good point, there are so many storage compartments in this model. Even one behind the steering wheel! How does this model hold up to rust? All I can really see is the rear beam has surface corrosion all over it but nothing a rub down won't cure. Also does anyone have a recommendation for a set of spark plugs? I've seen Bosch and ngk for sale around £30 for a set. Thanks
  38. 2 points
    Great purchase 👍 You don't see many of these Yaris these days, if your going to tinker with it the guys to talk to are Se7en Motorsport great guys and with the engine been a celica one they know them very well.
  39. 2 points
    Hi. Regarding the Aygo... Pros: -nimble in town, short steering radius, easy to park anywhere -cheap to run, insure... Cons: -the clutch can be a little strange to handle, with its very high biting point, this might annoy a senior driver (no offense), and this part has always been a weakness on this car, check the amount of ads with a clutch replaced very early -a rather low sitting car, I noticed that the seat foam tends to collapse with time, I weigh 180 pounds and after a few years, I was sitting a few centimeters lower ^^ -the trunk has a high loading level forcing to lift up shopping bags, take a 5-door to load on the back seats -everything is cheap, although it is more recent than the 97 Micra, it might seem lower in quality I love the Aygo but I would go for a Fiat Panda or a Yaris, even a Yaris mk1 😃
  40. 2 points
    The latest episode of The Carina Journey has just gone public on my YouTube channel. Feel free to take a look, thanks.
  41. 2 points
    Don't know where to post this as I found advice in several of the RAV4 sections of the forum, but having had the RAV4 dashboard light up like a Christmas tree, and having looked at all the excellent posts on here, was able to alert my mechanic to the fact that just because the ABS and brake system and VSC warning lights were on, this did not mean a complete breakdown of the entire ABS system, and that they might check the brake pedal actuator no matter what the code fault reading was. And the brake pedal actuator was indeed the culprit ... it makes such a difference even if you don't fix these things yourself to be able to walk into the repairers with a hint of where they might start looking. Thank you all contributors. 😋 Btw, having paid for the diagnostic and the minimum 1-hour labour (a reasonable total of £64), I had fitted the £28 Toyota genuine article rather than the £7.99 option. Didn't seem worth paying for the cheap option if I had to fork out another £64 sooner rather than later ....
  42. 2 points
    Hi I have had a test drive today in the all new RAV4 it was the 2 wheel drive Dynamic full leather. In a word brilliant. Ultra quite in EV mode apart from a slight wine from the electric motor on moving off and on stopping, it wasn’t a problem AT ALL to start with I thought it was an emergency vehicle in the distance, I kept looking in the mirror expecting to see police/ ambulance . On the dual carriageway. It was very quite on full acceleration noisier in sport mode , back to normal driving mode and I was pleasantly suprised by the lack of engine noise that was present in my 2014 Prius Plus when flooring the throttle ,there was always lots of engine noise whilst waiting for the CVT to catch up. a vast improvement in the new RAV4 . When the car goes from EV to petrol engine and back again you can’t tell ,even if your listening for the change The cabin was very well screwed together the driving seat was easy to get my ideal driving position (6ft) comfortable and very supportive . Back to the dealers and parking up so quite in EV mode full rear camera . Very good test drive with dual carriageway and town work . next test driving Lexus NX on the same route, followed by the Audi Q3 Sport 35 TFSI S tronic They have quite a lot to do when you consider the RAV4 5 year warranty and 2 years interest free finance . Plus the RAV4 is an all new design
  43. 2 points
    As Konrad said they are excellent cars to buy used for someone that intends to hold onto them. very reliable naturally aspirated engine to minimise potential expensive issues down the line & reasonable economy very reliable auto box estates very flexible/practical long manufacturer warranty that is transferable to new owner cheap to run The downside for someone looking to buy is relatively few petrols around & even fewer available for sale 😛 Hopefully for an owner that translates into an easy sell when one does want to. 😄
  44. 2 points
    They do hold their value, I bought my 2012 Prius+ T-Spirit at 6 months old for £24k (IIRC new was around £29k) and still got £17k trade in 3 years later for it, well pleased, it meant I got my brand new Gen 4 for £11k. 6 months old seems to be the sweet spot for value, it lost £5k in first 6 months then only £7k in the next 3 years.
  45. 2 points
    depends on insurer - always best to check beforehand.
  46. 2 points
    That to me is totally unacceptable from the dealer and Toyota Greece. Who did you contact at Toyota Greece...... go higher up the management chain...... to a high level. Dont ask if 4mm is acceptable.....TELL them it is NOT acceptable
  47. 2 points
    Surprised how little interest there is on here, in the motoring press and in general. It is a good looking car with a very high spec even at the bottom end. Considering it's actually in the showrooms it is surprising there are no decent reviews yet in the main motoring press.
  48. 2 points
    If you want to save money, just keep the Auris. With such low mileages, I can't see how it could ever make financial sense to change the car.
  49. 2 points
    When a Toyota pure EV is produced I reckon it will be a good un, that's what Toyota do.
  50. 2 points
    Ive just realised ive never posted this up on this forum so here it is; I decided that I wanted to convert my tail lamps on my compressor to give the JDM look, after seeing Noedel's conversion on the TOC a year so ago. I loved the look it gave to the rear end of the car at night and it looked relatively simple to do. What I didn't like about Noedel's conversion was the fact you had to disable the rear fog light and every year you would have to return the lights back to standard to pass a MOT. As I've messed with car lighting wiring looms of practically every car I've owned, I quickly hatched a plan of "how to do it" in my head. This method allows you to have; 4 sidelights 4 brake lights 2 fog lights displayed in the inner oem fog light area. There will be no unwanted fog light symbol coming up on the dash everytime you brake, nor will all the lights light up when you turn the rear fog on. This way makes all the lights work as it should and it will have no problems going through an MOT like this :) Heres a video of the lights working to give you a idea on how it will look ;) Right first up, parts that you will require; - 2 380 Brake light bulbs - 4 5amp diodes - Some very small screws + screwdriver - 1.5mm/8mm drill bit + drill - Soldering iron and solder - A wiring connector from a scrapped Toyota (If you'd like two rear fog lights) - Rotary tool with attachments - 3m of 1.0mm 16A car wiring loom grade wire - A selection of heat shrink in various sizes - Some sharp side snips - 4 very small electrical o ring connectors I shall start with the drivers tail lamp. First; - Remove the carpet cover in the boot - Remove the white wiring connector on the top nut, it just pulls off - Remove the 3x 10mm nuts - Pull the tail light off the car and remove the connector by pushing in the tab. - Remove the inner light panel from the light assembly by pushing the two black tabs revealing this: The left bulb here is missing - this is the fog light one to be modified. In the fog light slot there is a metal tab which connects to the bottom of the bulb. As we will be using a 2 point bulb we need to remove this. So I used a pair of side snips to cut the tab at the top Using a flat head screw driver lift the tap up to allow the whole piece to simply lift out of the bulb slot. Then push the tab flat again once its removed, leaving you with this cut out bit of metal ;) Drill a 8mm hole in the back of the bulb holder for the new wires to pass through. Once that is done, take both of your 380 bulbs and solder a 10cm piece of wire to each of the connectors to the bottom of the bulb One will be the "high/brightest" connection and one will be the "low/dimmest" connection. I used a power probe to find out which was which. You can fit the circuit board back on the car and test each wire to see which is which if you do not have one of these :) Now you need to solder in a diode to the circuit board, please make sure you solder this in the correct way and to the correct metal paths as I have it shown here. The metal paths need to be either sanded or slightly ground down as they are galvanised and if you don't do this the solder wont stick very well. I used a rotary tool with a small grinding stone to do this as well, I was being lazy Next up you need to cut off the two plastic heads on the circuit board. I did this with a cutting disc on the rotary tool again to give it a clean finish. I've then drilled a 1.5mm hole into the plastic below to allow me to fit a very small self tapping screw into it. I've marked on this photo where I have done this and also which one is for either the high/low bulb wires go onto. Once your happy with your lengths of wire and that they go to the right place (you can always fit the circuit board back onto the car and test which one is high or low) you now need to fit two small ring connectors to the bulb wires. Again I soldered these in and heat shrank them to aid conductivity and protect against short circuits. The tiny self tapping screws I used And the drivers side unit all complete and ready to go :) The passenger side is just a reversed copy of the drivers side, so copy exactly what you did to the drivers side. ill just put the pictures up for a reference. And completed Even though there is a fog light bulb holder on the passenger side tail lamp, the hole for the bulb to access it is not cut out. I used a engravement attachment on the rotary tool as the outline for this hole is already there. All i did was "engrave" this mark deeper and deeper until it cut through. I then used a small sand paper wheel on the rotary tool to clean up the edges and you'll have something that looks like this :) There will be some bits that fall into the light housing itself, you can use a combination of a straw attached to a hover to remove these. If you cant get it all out that way, like i couldn't, I ended up swilling out the light 5-6 times with loads of water and leaving it to dry on a radiator. (BOTH SINGLE/DOUBLE FOG LIGHT VERSIONS) To the drivers side tail lamp connector. The red wire with silver dots is the fog light wire. Remove the electrical tape further up the wiring loom to give some more access. About half way up this photo above you will need to snip the fog light wire (red with silver dots) IF YOU ONLY WANT A SINGLE DRIVERS SIDE FOG LIGHT: Solder in a diode like shown and heat shrink the wire Rewrap the wires in electrical tape and refit the lights back onto the car. Stand back and enjoy the JDM look your tail lights now have :good: IF YOU WANT DOUBLE FOG LIGHTS: Take an electrical connector you've cut from a scrapped toyota. This one below happens to be a CD player connector out of a avensis, which had lying around from when i converted my E11 tail lights (I've already chopped most of it up as you can see ) And cut out a connector pin Solder in a diode noting which way I have it facing and add a good length of wire to it - Enough to travel from the left tail lamp to the right. Then heat shrink the connection Go to the passenger side tail lamp connector and you will notice that one of the six pins on the connector is missing (3rd from top) This is where the fog light wire would normally run. You need to pop open the little clip on the connector using a small flat head screwdriver and feed the connector pin into the slot. Make sure its the right way around!! You will feel it clip into place and then all you have to do is secure it back into place with the original clip :) I then wrapped some electrical tape around the wires at the connector end to make them all hold together securely. Remove the boot rubber seal from around the boot carpet and bottom trim. Remove the two 10mm bolts off the lower boot plastic trim and pop it off Pop the carpet out for some room at the sides of the lights - these are held in with one body trim clip each side. Feed the wire that you've added to the passenger light connector to the drivers side connector. I tapped it in at various places to the original wiring loom that runs along this panel to make sure it doesn't get trapped or caught on anything. Once at the drivers side tail lamp connector, you need to solder in a diode with the wire located as shown! The extra fog light wire must be above the diode (opposite side to the connector) otherwise you will over load the diode. Heat shrink the wire and diode Wrap the wires back up with electrical tape. Refit everything back onto the car, stand back and enjoy the JDM looking tail lights :good: If anyone is unsure of any part of this guide or feels like i haven't explained parts in enough detail - let me know and ill try to improve on it :)

  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up