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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Another way to clean/ operate the rear brakes is to reverse quite fast in a safe area and brake. This way the weight of the car is transferred to the rear and the rear brakes will apply harder. Also Regen braking does not work in reverse as far as I know. HTH
  2. 4 points
    I know there must be a more eloquent of doing this, but I've listed screenshots from my Carista App showing the options available on my 2016 Gen 4 Prius. You probably already know that you get a month's free trial when you buy the Carista unit so you do have some time to tweak for free. However, as I've just discovered, it appears that the trial starts from when you first connect the app to the unit and not (as I thought) from when you make your first tweak. Hope this is useful.
  3. 4 points
    So when I was reversing the Aygo the other day (the girlfriend is a learner and couldnt get it out the space in front of my car without worrying) she says to me " the right side reverse light isn't working" Ok, says I.. I will sort it. SO today I buy a couple of bulbs, look up on You tube how to get the rear lens out, take the lens out, change the bulb, test it before refitting and still it does not light up when in reverse. With fading daylight I thought "sod it" and put it back together. When I had screwed the lens back in I looked at it and thought... hmmm why is the lens red... Then I flicked the fog light switch on the light stalk.. Doh!
  4. 4 points
    just an update from my previous posts just back from the dealer and they replaced the timing chain and other components and now the car sounds perfect, i am so happy the problem has been solved thanks to all who helped
  5. 4 points
    Hi, It was this:- I bought it from my local dealer. It was less than £10 and included the four clips that secure it. I think the last two part number digits, C1, refer to the trim colour. C1 was good for me, but you may need C0 (a different shade?), as this is listed in some parts breakdowns for the spare wheel kit for an Auris mk2 Once the two chrome 'D' securing rings are removed the trim just pulls straight up (against the four securing clips). HTH
  6. 4 points
    A year ago I put the space saver in our 2013 Auris Hybrid. Further to the chart above, I thought some pictures might be of use. A shallower trim piece is required for the boot slam panel, this is very reasonably priced in the UK (less than £10). I have shown it next to the original piece in the picture. The lower boot floor is not well supported and it is tilted (picture) when the wheel is fitted. The wheel carrier is the one recommended by my dealer and was about £10, which seemed a bit steep, other very similar ones (for a Yaris?) are half that price. The spare wheel is not big enough to accommodate the jack and handle, so these have to go somewhere else. (The photo shows the tyre size I have). There are 4 rubber blocks that are needed to hold the metal wheel rim off the metal boot floor, but I used a heavy duty carpet tile instead. Your spare wheel could go either way up, I can't see much benefit to either. I have not used the wheel in anger, but your existing wheel nuts should fit, but will use the taper at their end to secure the wheel, instead of the flat/washer face they use on the alloy. I have tried a full size alloy (195/65 x 15) in the boot, just because I have one. The slam panel would need serious cutting to fit this in, it is very tight. The lower boot floor is then so high that it barely exists. On the new Auris, the spare wheel is standard in the UK, and is fitted the other way up, meaning a different (longer) carrier/clamp is required. Also, these cars have completely different boot plastics which finish the boot off properly, but that are (dealer) reported to cost hundreds when ordered as a spare part. (Last 2 pictures). HTH
  7. 4 points
    Hi all, wife has let me get a car I’ve wanted for a long time...celica 190 t sport. You would not believe the history that comes with this car...see pictures! So the wife has a 207...which she wants to keep so not sure to do with old faithful (aka my Avensis), sorned her for now so thinking of selling her. Anyway here’s a family photo lol And some of the Celica... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. 4 points
    Hi Richard, You've just spent 20 odd thousand pounds on a great car so I can't see why you quibble about £160 to have a decent proper service using the Toyota garage. I would certainly take on board Frosty's comments regarding the warranty. I wouldn't dream of taking my Prius to anywhere other than a Toyota garage for a service. Besides that just remember Toyota agents have the specialised diagnostic equipment needed to maintain the running of their hybrid cars in tip top condition!
  9. 3 points
    Not sure you will get many answers. In the UK the National speed limit is 70mph - motorways and some dual carriageways. If caught driving at 100mph one faces being fined between 125% and 175% of one's weekly wage subject to a maximum of £1,000 for non-motorways and £2,500 for motorways. Plus a possibility of a driving ban - an instant ban if travelling at 45% more than the speed limit in force where caught.
  10. 3 points
    Once upon a time, when it was a DIY job, I used to change engine oil/filter every 6 months, as It just seemed a sympatico thing to do....I even used engine flush, which was probably daft, as some must have been retained. Nowadays, like Kithmo, with only 3k Gen 4 miles pa, changing oil, other than for the problem of water condensing in the crank case, seems a bit daft. Especially as the Gen 4 ICE does not even do all the suggested mileage. Apropos of bore glazing, It was always the received wisdom, that if you wanted a fast car, drive it extra fast straight out of the show room But conforming to the the service intervals is very important as with my wife’s IQ has revealed. The car is an 09 and 10 years old, but just 20k miles, and now the paint on the roof has started peeling. I thought of having the roof vinyl covered for about £200, but using Frosty’s advice I wrote to Toyota Customer Services Flying a kite, you could say. Expected the reply to be my sandwiches wrapped in a road map, I was surprised (to say the least), to get reply suggesting I take the car to Jemca body shop for inspection. Just 3 years warranty in 09, and 2 years for paint, this was unexpected, but the car had a full Mr Toy service history, as had my 2 Prius, both bought new. The body shop car measured paint depth on all panels, mentioned that this car was a Japanese import, said it was one of the better paint jobs, but that the roof undercoating had become contaminated, and said he would submit a report to Toyota head office. Ah well, I thought, thats the end of it, move on, nothing to see here. But......last week I had a phone call from the Body Shop saying that a COMPLETE RESPRAY of the whole had been approved, at a Toy cost of (wait for it) .....£3000! And not only that, but I would get a loan Yaris auto for the 2/3 weeks of stripping the car down completely! All I can say is that current a Toyota is the ONLY car to buy, and that letting the main agent service the car is the most intelligent thing a person can do It seems that I just had to tell this story, as it gob smacks most folk, but is probably the very best word of mouth advertising Mr Toy could ever spend money on
  11. 3 points
    hi stuart and here are some images of my car again after a wash,clay & a wax. i absolutely love keeping our cars clean if i spent all day cleaning i would still be happy at the end of the day.
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    With a Gen 3 or 4 Prius (and maybe other Toyota models [*]) there is also the option of using the Hill Start Assist (HSA) feature. People will no doubt have varying ideas as to the desirability of this, but it's there if you want it. On a Gen 3, briefly pressing the main brake pedal a bit harder invokes HSA (it beeps when activated and I think the Stability Control light flashes), and when the foot is removed the brakes are held on for 2 seconds, which is enough to start accelerating. On a Gen 4, just releasing the main brake pedal activates HSA if the slope is more than the creep can hold, and again keeps the brakes on for 2 seconds, but there's no beep or dash light. [*] I've noticed this system on a C-HR Hybrid and Aygo MMT that I've driven too.
  14. 3 points
    problem solved sticking SCV on the diesel pump, replaced and all o.k., just thought id mention it incase someone else gets this at a later date.
  15. 3 points
    As someone who regularly bemoans the lack of common courtesy on our roads, I find it reassuring to see folks on here who are placing the needs of others over their own convenience when stopped in traffic. However, at the risk of causing offence, I would like to suggest that those of you who believe that using Park in traffic is the polite and courteous thing to do are perhaps misguided. In fact, you could be doing more harm than good. Here's why: Moving from P to D takes time. If you're in front of me, and you're fannying around pumping the brake and getting back into gear when you should be acquiring some forward motion, that is going to inconvenience me far more than a bit of brake light glare could. Maybe one person doing this isn't an issue. But if there's a whole queue of well-meaning 'considerate' people ahead, it means I'm probably not going to get through the lights before they change, which is a pretty damned inconsiderate outcome that has the added affect of negatively impacting congestion and pollution! More importantly, I would suggest that you could actually be making the 'dazzle' problem worse for the driver behind by going into P. This is because you are going to need to hit the brake again to get back into Drive. In other words, you are going to 'dazzle' the person behind - whose eyesight has adjusted to your lights being off - with a brief burst of illumination right at the very point when they are looking to pull away. Surely, this is worse, and potentially even more hazardous? I will be honest and admit that I'm not entirely convinced that the dazzle thing is a genuine concern. I was taught years ago to 'avert my eyes' from brake lights if waiting in traffic, rather than staring at them transfixed until my pupils reduced to pinpricks. It's not hard to do, and I am therefore in the 'leave my foot on the brake' camp myself. However, I respect the view that brake lights could still be seen as 'impolite'. If that is indeed your view, then I would suggest the better option is the one suggested by Joseph D and others: just knock your car into neutral and put the handbrake on. The HSD charging thing is a red herring edge-case. And at least then you can switch back to D without touching the dazzle pedal, and pull away nearly as swiftly as you could if you left your foot on the brake! To add some further information which may be of interest to Toyota HSD owners, my Lexus hybrid has a 'brake hold' function which I originally thought might offer a 'best of both worlds' solution. It lets you take your foot off the brake after a couple of seconds in stationary traffic, and automatically releases when you get back on the throttle. Unfortunately it is more like the worst of both worlds. The brake lights actually stay on even after you take your foot off the pedal, AND it adds an annoying delay when you try to get going again. Technology hasn't answered this one, yet!
  16. 3 points
    Using N for short periods of time will do no harm as long as the State of Charge doesn't go below 2 bars, although I'm not advocating using it when stopped in traffic (from 6 bars it can last over 20 minutes if not too many electrical systems are on). I think it's there in case the car needs to be pushed. Unofficially, some people also like to select it briefly on the move to rub rust off the disc brakes, as it also disables regen braking. I'm also surprised crawl isn't disabled when the parking brake is on, even (relatively) cheap Aygo autos (MultiMode) are clever enough to do that! I don't know why a Hybrid needs to creep at all. I wish they'd take a leaf out of Tesla's book and have a menu option to choose whether to creep or not. I used to sometimes drive a CVT Micra which didn't creep, and it was so much more restful in heavy traffic. Personally I think it's bad manners and bad driving to stay on the brake pedal for more than a minute or so if someone is behind you, especially in the wet and/or night time. This is in the Highway Code: "In stationary queues of traffic, drivers should apply the parking brake and, once the following traffic has stopped, take their foot off the footbrake to deactivate the vehicle brake lights. This will minimise glare to road users behind until the traffic moves again. Law RVLR reg 27".
  17. 3 points
    This is one of the little niggles about the HSD (and, to be fair, lots of other automatics now!) - They encourage bad driving practices. With a Manual gearbox, if you are gong to be stopped for anything but the briefest pauses, you should go Handbrake + Neutral - This makes the car safe and doesn't blind the drivers behind you at night ("If a pause becomes a wait, USE THE HANDBRAKE OR I'LL BREAK YOUR LEGS!" as my instructor used to jokingly say. Well, at least I think he was joking... ) In the HSD however, you can't use neutral as it will eventually drain the battery. (Neutral is absolutely pointless on the HSD as it can't actually disengage the gears - Someone told me the only reason it's there is for legal requirements!) Also, you can't use D + Parking brake as the HSD will try to 'creep' against the parking brake and stress the leccy motor unnecessarily. Most HSD owners just commit the cardinal sin of standing on the foot-brake (Which, to be fair, is what 99% of drivers seem to do regardless of auto or manual!), but really the 'proper' way would be to engage the parking brake and then hit P so that even if you did get rear-ended the parking brake should take most of the impact and hopefully the pawl for the parking brake won't get sheared off...! I really don't know why Toyota made the car creep in D with the parking brake engaged - If they hadn't then D+Parking brake would be perfect!
  18. 3 points
    Dont worry Harters, we are all fools at times, so you not alone. Hi Keith, I am loving the Prius I had 1 month now (plus the 7 months in the Auris Hybrid, now the wifes). Would love a new one, but I have said I will never buy a new car again, loose too much in the first year......... but I can dream. I am 70 (nearly 71) and not working now, so it would be very hard for me to justify £25k for a new car anyway, so its dream on!
  19. 3 points
    I know why it has been done, but can't comment on the reason it was done A Dealer (Toyota or otherwise) is not allowed to actively seek out warranty work, any warranty work has to be reported as a fault by the customer, hence the phrase used. If I was to hazard a guess, I reckon they use a warranty code, which drops that wording into any warranty work line on the invoice. An unfortunate use of the term me thinks Kingo
  20. 3 points
    Hi, It does sound like you have really burnt out the clutch, so you need a full kit, clutch plate, cover and thrust bearing. Once opened up you may find the flywheel is damaged, needing a skim or replacement. If you do a Search on this forum you will find some posts where the Tsport guys have detailed their clutch replacements and type of kit fitted.
  21. 3 points
    I was thinking about this some more, and still think there is quite a bit of resistance in EV and hybrid vehicles due to the perceived notion that the hybrid traction battery is a disposable consumable item, and will need replacing at some point. It's obvious that the hybrid battery has a finite life, but where do you draw the line between an item that is expected to be replaced, and one that "should" last the lifetime of the vehicle?, what frequency of replacement denotes consumable? It seems to be a common question when people are looking for, or are presented with the fact that you own a hybrid (ooohhhhh, how much will a new battery be), however, when people are looking to purchase a diesel car do they factor in the cost of expensive replacement items (turbos, injectors, I mean a high pressure fuel pump is £1500 a pop) when considering a purchase?, no, they generally don't, because there is an assumption that they will last the life of the vehicle (many don't). I just wonder why there is this disconnect between expensive replacement items on ICE vehicles, and the battery pack on a hybrid / EV vehicle? There are also a few items that don't wear as much as ICE cars, brakes is one, and things that are consumable on ICE cars (clutches is a big one) that don't even feature on a hybrid / EV, then you've got the transmission, the eCVT HSD is way less complex than people think it is (can be hard to get your head around how it works!), but it's extremely robust, and features way, way less parts than the transmission on an ICE vehicle. Sorry for the ramble, but I just think that the notion of having to replace a pack as per for the course is mis information spread around by ill informed people!
  22. 3 points
    Is that the wife and your car, the wife and her car or just both cars Joe ?
  23. 3 points
    Save yourself £90 and make one from 9mm m.d.f.. Just waiting for 1sq.m of black car carpet to finish it off. Hole is for removal. Made a cardboard template as a guide for cutting the m.d.f.. Parcel tape in the centre is to facilitate removal while trimming to fit.
  24. 3 points
    Ok after spending a few hours on this today and gave up trying to trace the cables from the door actuator, I had one last go and got it working by using the wiring legend supplied on the previous page. heres some info for 2014/15 RAV4’s any question please gimme a shout. In the end it was really easy and a 15 min job had I had the information so hopefully this will help others.
  25. 3 points
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