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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    I am now the proud owner of a 17-plate Prius PHV in Hypersonic Red. Generally speaking, I don’t like red cars, but for some reason I like this one. I'm sure I will be posting more about it in due course. Here's a nice picture of it: However, the process of getting to the stage where this particular car is sitting on my drive has been nothing less than tortuous. What I was expecting to be a joyful process full of anticipatory excitement turned out to be an arduous and depressing slog, as my wife and I travelled hundreds of miles around the country seeking the 'right' car, only to discover an almost-uniformly awful experience at each Toyota dealership we visited. I should perhaps point out that this is likely to be a long post, written more for my own cathartic benefit than for anyone else's interest, so here’s the tl;dr up front, to save you the effort of reading through the drivel beneath: Uninterested, uninformed dealers making half-hearted attempts to sell cars, often in worryingly-dubious condition, for staggeringly random prices. Anyway, if you do want to read on, here's the unexpurgated version. It's not pretty... To start with, what the juddering hell is the deal with pricing on these cars? It's insane. Brand spanking new Prius Excel PHVs are available through Carwow for £27.5k, so why would anyone pay more than that for a used one with a few thousand miles on it? Yet we found tens for sale, well above that price point. The bizarrely specific numbers like £28,471 suggested some kind of machine-learning algorithm at play. I can only assume this was locked in some kind of infinite rank-ordering comparison loop, as I actually saw individual vehicle prices going up as well as down in the time I was monitoring them. Unsurprisingly, these optimistically-priced specimens are all still for sale now, having spent months on forecourts already. I am utterly baffled at what is happening here. Even more mystifying was the price differential between apparently identical cars. We found cars with the same specs, age and mileage, for sale at up to £5k difference in sticker price. In one case, this difference was between two cars at the same dealership! Granted, the cheaper one was in Dishwasher White but even so, you've got to really hate kitchen appliances to pay five large more for Decuma Grey, right? Price had seemingly no bearing on condition, either. And, on the subject of condition, the state we found some of these cars in was shockingly poor, given that they were all Toyota Approved cars with minimal miles, less than 18 months old. The first one we saw had done fewer than 2,000 miles yet looked like it had done ten times that; it was covered in scratches inside and out, with big chips of paint missing from the front bumper. The driver's door looked like it had repeatedly been opened into a brick wall, and was down to the bare metal along its edge. Yet the conversation that followed went roughly like this: "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "Okay, but if we agree to buy it, will you get your bodyshop to sort the worst bits of the paintwork out before we collect?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "That’s a no, then?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "And you're not prepared to make any kind of reduction to account for the poor condition, to cover the cost of getting it sorted ourselves?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "Right. Bye, then." Then there was the one that turned out to have done over 3,000 miles more than advertised, with a replacement windscreen that had somehow been re-fitted with no seals around it, leaving huge gaps and the plastic scuttle flapping in the breeze, along with two strips of glue residue on the roof from where they'd used the wrong tape to hold it in. "Don't worry, we'll get the workshop to look at the windscreen and get it sorted for you before you pick up the car." "Right. Would that be the same workshop that made such a godforsaken mess of it the first time around?" "Er, yes..." "Er, bye then." And then there was the one that had a big dent in the lower side panel, and which had been run by the dealership boss for 18 months but somehow hadn't been serviced at all in that time. "Don't worry, we'll fix the dent with a bit of filler and we'll service it before you buy it. The manufacturer's warranty will be fine." "You mean the warranty that Toyota specifically state will not be fine, as any items which fail in future as a possible result of lack of servicing will not be covered?" "No, it will be fine. Let me get my service manager to explain why both you and the Toyota website are wrong about this." "No, let me get my coat, and remind me never to assume that Toyota dealers understand their own service intervals and warranty conditions." Still, if some of the cars were poor, the actual experiences and interactions in the showrooms were worse. Here's a flavour of what we endured: Being left waiting for ages whilst the salesman 'found the best price' for my car, only for him to finally come out and offer £1k less than we both knew it was worth. Pro-tip: We all know you can look up a valuation in 30 seconds. If you're going to bid me in the nuts for my car, at least have the common decency not to make me wait for half an hour before you do. Especially not when you're keeping me from my lunch. Being seated directly in front of glass pane windows, squinting into the baking sun, in a showroom that inexplicably didn't have air conditioning, waiting for the salesperson to arrive whilst being forcibly engaged in toe-curlingly banal conversation by a painfully enthusiastic teenager wearing a badge that actually – I kid you not – gave his job title as Host. Pro-tip. Try to ensure you offer a buying experience that doesn't run the risk of contravening the Geneva Convention as a form of cruel and unusual punishment. You may just sell more cars. Being told that the person I'd agreed to meet at the specified time wasn't available, being asked to wait until someone else could see us, then being dealt with by a surly, uncommunicative teenager who had no interest in selling the car and whose knowledge about the product he was supposed to be persuading us to buy was utterly non-existent. He even checked his phone a few times during our conversation. Pro-tip: If you really must employ useless millennials who can't grasp the concept of turning up at an agreed time and place, at least make sure the backup isn't a social media addict from Generation Zombie. Being told that the dealership couldn't provide a valuation for my car at all, unless I first agreed I would definitely buy their car from them and not go elsewhere. Pro-tip. That. Is. Not. How. It. Works. You've just let me walk away, and I will not be coming back. Ever. You can call me all you like the day after. But, just as you discovered, I won't be answering. Being told that my wife couldn't sit next to me in the front for the test drive as the salesman had to be there in case he needed to 'grab the wheel' when I was driving. Pro-tip: Try to avoid insulting your customer's driving ability before they've even got in the car. Oh, and never let my wife ride behind you when you've just ****** her off. We nearly did crash in the end, because I was too busy laughing at her in the rear view mirror as she made gestures behind your back suggesting your proclivity for indulging in onanistic pleasure. Frankly, you were lucky she didn't garotte you with your spivvy skinny tie. Being told that there was 'no room for negotiation' on the initial cost to change you offered. Pro-tip: There is always room for negotiation. Otherwise *cough* you might end up with your car still on your forecourt, at a *cough* considerably reduced price that is now hilariously less than what I was actually willing to pay you weeks ago. Ha ha ha and, indeed, ha. Being told on the phone that I had to pay a £100 'refundable deposit' in order to make sure the car would be available to view the next day. Pro-tip: Wait, what? I don't even… kthxbye. Even when we actually found a car in decent nick that wasn't horrifically overpriced, defective or abused, it was a struggle to complete the purchase. I think it was the young salesman's first ever experience of dealing with someone who didn't want finance. Or possibly just his first ever experience of selling a car. He was giddy with excitement, which was actually quite endearing at first. We finally agreed a price that I was happy to pay, shook hands on the deal, then he went round the back to get the paperwork. All seemed to be going well. Then he returned, looking very sheepish and informed us that we'd have to pay £1 more than we'd just agreed. He explained that he'd exceeded the amount by which he was 'allowed' to discount the car, so would we mind paying a pound more? After my wife and I realised that he wasn't actually joking, we obviously told him to do one. A gentleman does not renege on a handshake, FFS! However, I did generously agree to sign the paperwork for the higher amount if he gave me a quid from his own pocket there and then. Panicking now, and not having any cash himself, he was out of ideas so I suggested he went round the back for a whip-round. I fully expected him to return with a handful of loose change. However, he eventually came back having apparently got permission to put the lower amount through on the card machine whilst keeping the extra £1 on the paperwork. Seriously, that happened. In all honesty, if we hadn't have closed the deal on that one then we'd probably have just thrown in the towel and bought a brand new one on finance. I have a sneaky suspicion that this may actually have been Toyota's plan all along: overprice your used stock and make the buying-for-cash experience so awful that people give up and finance a new one instead. I’m glad we didn't, as I've ended up with what seems to be a decent example, obtained in the end for a fair price. But next time? I'm not sure I'll have the energy. I might just have to accept that long-term ownership is a dying scene, and give in and join the masses on their 3-year contracts and monthly payments...
  2. 5 points
    Lots of debate this time of year whether winter tyres or not. On 29th Jan 2019 it dumped with snow over the snake pass in the Peaks with very expensive 4x4's on their standard summer tyres failing to get over the top and even making the point of winding down their window to tell me that I had no chance on making it as they had tried twice & failed. I had lots of surprised faces when I passed them all and I was the only one over the top at 3pm on Tuesday afternoon - Winter tyres are the way forward if you live in an area that gets is bad!
  3. 5 points
    I cannot for the life of me understand why people are obsessed with range/segments/miles per tank etc etc, drives me nuts! Here is a tip for you all. Fill the tank, when it gets to a half or quarter tank, go to the fuel station and fill it up again, no stress, no strain, job done
  4. 4 points
    Wheel alignment isn't checked on service. If you have an alignment problem then an indicator would be that your tyres may show signs of uneven wear either on the outer or inner edges. Have you hit a pothole or kerb recently? That would be a reason for it pulling and if it's only just started you wouldn't see any tyre wear initially. Take it to a decent garage to get the alignment checked. Anyone with a Hunter system would be my personal choice.
  5. 4 points
    I arranged with my local Toyota dealer, Chester/Deeside area, to have 2 new tyres fitted today. All 4 tyres were hanging around 3 mm but I decided to have 2 new on the front. I have a Gen 4 Prius Excel with 15" wheels. Originals were Toyo and the dealer quoted me about 2 months ago £50 per tyre, that included balancing, new valves, disposal etc and included VAT. That matched any price I could see on the internet so booked in for today. When done I started chatting to the service guy about satnav map updates, and he offered to update today if I had time to wait for about an hour - it takes that time for the software to do its job. Job done, just had to hand over the £100 for 2 tyres. If there is another map update before my car is 3 years old end of September then they will do that freebie as well. I know some on this forum are not too impressed with their local Toyota dealer, so I thought I would give a good comment about my local dealer.
  6. 4 points
    So, I’ve had my Prius PHV for two weeks, and thought I’d share a few of my first impressions, good and bad. I wanted one in Pearl White with the light grey interior, registered in March 2017 for the free tax. I ended up with one in Hypersonic Red with a black interior, registered in June 2017. I’m not very good at buying cars. However, despite having failed to meet all three criteria, I’m still happy with my purchase. And to save you wading through what follows, I can summarise my thoughts very nicely: I like this car a lot. 💕 That Tailgate! Can anyone truly say they’ve bought a car because of its boot lid? I think I can now. It’s nothing short of an engineering marvel with its double-bubble glass, uber-cool LED light strip and honest-to-god legit carbon fibre that’s subtly visible through the window. Okay, so that light strip is disappointingly fake (only the central brake light illuminates) and yes, there’s the small matter of not having a rear wiper (although interestingly the aero actually keeps the screen completely clear as long as you’re moving) but still… it is a masterpiece of geeky design. I absolutely love it. 💕 Squint, and it looks a bit like an Alfa SZ. Remaining on the subject of looks, I was trying to work out why I find the PHV more appealing to the eye than the standard Gen4, and realised that it might have something to do with looking a tiny bit like an Alfa SZ. Especially in red. I was an impressionable teenager when the SZ appeared – in fact, it arrived the same year I passed my driving test – and I’ve always harboured a liking for them. I reckon there’s more than a little of the SZ design language in the Prius PHV. They’re both unconventionally attractive. Or, perhaps, conventionally ugly. Definitely ungainly from some angles, and more than a little quirky in the detailing. And to my eyes, they share quite a few of those details: the square headlights; the steeply-raked waistline with an excess of body over the rear wheel; the black roofline and glasshouse; the full-width light strip at the rear… and the SZ had a pretty decent drag coefficient for its day as well. 💕 It’s a Smooth Operator We all know the hybrid drivetrain is supremely relaxing when driven as intended. The PHV adds another dimension – as I’m sure the standard Gen 4 also does on 15” wheels – which is a proper cosseting ride. There’s a level of bump absorption that people seem to have forgotten is actually possible in these days of huge wheels and tiny sidewalls. Yet it doesn’t flop around corners like a dying halibut either; it feels remarkably well-balanced and tied down. Incredibly, it actually delivers a more comfortable ride than my Lexus GS Premier, probably thanks to the latter’s wholly unnecessary 18” wheels. It’s a bit ridiculous that this eco-car should be so much smoother than a ‘luxury exec’ saloon, but it is. No more thumping horribly over horizontal seams on the A14; no more getting jiggled uncomfortably on badly-maintained B-roads and what were once haemorrhoid-troubling speed humps are now dispatched with nary a rectal twinge. 💕 Zero-Emission Commuting? Nearly! Having not owned a plug-in vehicle before, I was looking forward to the experience of electric-only running. My journey to work is 32 miles, give or take. It’s an easy route to drive economically and very well-suited to hybrids. I figured that whilst the official EV range of 39 miles would be hopelessly optimistic, I might manage 32 on days when it’s not cold or wet. And manage it, I have. The full-charge range has been a bit random so far, but I guess it’s getting used to my driving style. Day One, a full charge got me a disappointing 31 miles on the indicator. But, 32 miles later, I was arriving at work with 0.1 mile still showing. Day Two, I kicked off with 33 miles, but made it with nothing to spare. Day Three, I kicked off with 35 miles but the roads were properly wet and I fell short by a couple of miles. Day Four, I started with 35 miles again, but it was chillier and I fell short by a mile. Day Five, I started with 36 miles then turned the AC off completely and saw 39 miles estimated. I left the heating off and arrived at work with 3 miles still left, and rather cold feet. I won’t be doing that on a regular basis, but it was an interesting experiment. A week further on, and the indicated range is inching above 40 miles, but in reality I’m still getting similar actual range. Overall, I’m happy with that. I knew I’d be unlikely to get all the way to work outside of summer time, and it’s clear that wet roads and cold temperatures have the same big impact on economy as in any other car. In the depths of winter, I’ll probably be lucky to make it half way. However, that’s not the whole story. Because, of course, there’s the journey back each day, where - until I can manage to wangle a charging point at work - the car is lugging a very big, very flat EV battery all the way home. I was hoping to see an indicated 70-75mpg for these journeys, as that’s what I used to get in my Gen3. The new setup is obviously more efficient than the Gen3, but I figured the extra dead weight would pull it back down. I figured wrong. Day 1, that 0.1 mile of charge disappeared pulling out of the work car park, meaning the whole journey was done in HV mode. I was gobsmacked to arrive home with 92mpg showing on the meter, although I’d been slowed down for a portion of the journey by a tractor so figured this wasn’t representative. Day 2, dragging the flat battery all the way and without the benefit of a slow tractor, netted me 85mpg. Day 3, with the roads having dried out since the morning, I was up to 87mpg Day 4, it was still a bit colder and I managed 83mpg Day 5, it was warmer and I had a bit of EV range to get me going, so I hit 94mpg. Since then, I’ve never been below 80mpg even when starting with absolutely zero EV range and I’ve been back over 90 a few times with a best run home of 97mpg. That is seriously impressive to me, and indicates just how brilliant the standard non-PHV Gen4 hybrid setup really must be. A quick flick through the info screens soon reveals the reason for such petrol parsimony. I’m hitting well over 50% - often over 60% - of engine-off running on the journey home. The slice of the battery that works like a standard hybrid is far stronger than any other hybrid I’ve driven, not least for its ability to let me cruise for extended periods at 50mph with the engine off. And when the engine does run, the fiendishly clever algorithm that determines power routing manages to harvest charge by using ‘excess’ petrol power even when not on re-gen. Sometimes it manages to grab enough to bring the EV range meter back into play, allowing me to switch to full EV mode for short distances despite starting with ‘nothing in the tank’. I’ve always guesstimated around 30% of engine-off running on that route in my other hybrids, so to be hitting double that is a pretty amazing achievement for this car. 🙉 Infernal Indicator Clicks Of course, no car is perfect and the PHV has its fair share of irritations. Not least, the appalling noise that issues forth every time the indicator stalk is used. Why, Toyota, why? If the C-HR – and, by all accounts, the standard Gen4 – can have an inoffensively-soft click then what on earth possessed you to equip the PHV with a squeaky, tinny clicker that actually manages to approximate a fingernail/blackboard interface? I’ve got a Carista dongle on the way, so I’ll see if lowering the volume makes it more tolerable, and failing that I’ll just silence it completely. For the time being, I’m tempted to go full-Audi and just not signal at all. It really is that bad. 🤬 Un-Turn-Offable Auto Headlights I realise I’m preaching to the converted here (well, @PeteB anyway) but seriously, how can it possibly be acceptable to have removed the ‘Off’ switch for the headlights when the Auto setting is so goddamn dangerous? The first thing I did was set the sensitivity to its lowest, yet they still go on at the slightest hint of shadow. I actually clocked up over twenty unnecessary activations the other day before I gave up and stopped counting. As twilight fell, I had to pull right back from the van in front, as I could see him looking in the mirror wondering what my game was. Last Friday, on a narrow lane, the car in front stopped in a shadowy dip to wait for some fighting pigeons to get out of the way. I wasn’t in a hurry, and completely understood why he had stopped. Nobody wants a fat wood pigeon in their grille and when the birds are scrapping they often just won’t move for you. However, the dim light triggered my stupid auto lights, so the chap got upset and gestured back angrily because he thought I was being impatient. Fortunately, he wasn’t a violent psycho, but I struggled to find the right sign language for ‘sorry, it’s not me, it’s the car’. And then, of course, there was my daily roundabout-with-a-flyover, where the inevitable happened: the lights came on under the flyover and the person waiting at the entrance thought I was flashing them to pull out. I was already braking at this point, because I knew full well what was going to happen, but it was still an unnecessary danger. Seriously, auto headlights are an absolute liability. To make them impossible to disable is madness. I don’t want to run sidelights all the time, because that dims the DRLs, which are a useful safety feature in the land of partially-sighted pensioners where I live. And I’d really rather not run on dipped headlights all the time either, as that’s just wasting energy when it’s not dark. I wonder if Carista can access an even-less-sensitive setting than the paltry -2 the car presently allows? 😢 Economy-Class Seating Okay, so I am coming from 18-way semi-aniline heated/ventilated luxury, and anything is going to be a bit of a comedown from that but still… it really hurts that the Prius Prime in the US gets proper electrical adjustability whilst here I am having to crank myself up and down and back and forth manually like a prole. A bit more padding wouldn’t go amiss, either. 💩 Archaic Infotainment This goes without saying, really. I’m not disappointed with it because I knew it was going to be bad, but it’s such a simple thing to get right that it’s depressing to see Toyota (along with so many other manufacturers to be fair) fail so hard. I mean, Mirrorlink? Really? That’s all you’re giving me in a car released in 2017? And just to rub it in that I can’t use my phone’s screen, you’re making me use an interface that looks like something from the days of Windows 7? You. Can. Do. Better. The sat nav actually gave me some hope, at first. Unlike my GS with its offensively-basic 1990s-style map display, the Toyota map at least looks vaguely modern. It can connect to the internet via my phone, to get those all-important live traffic updates. And it’s evidently been updated fairly recently, as all the shoddy new-build estates that are popping up like fungus on my route to work seem to be accounted for. Could this finally be an in-car nav system that’s worth using? Of course, not. Because then, you actually try to use the damn thing and it all falls apart. Primarily, because some cheapskate bean-counter in Aichi specced a wholly-inadequate CPU to power the whole thing. It’s impossibly slow to route, laggy to use and despite that internet connection it has so far managed to provide 100% inaccurate traffic info. All reported delays have failed to materialise, it insisted that a road was completely shut last week when it clearly wasn’t and it’s failed to give any warning of the delays which did actually occur. Still, in brighter news, the wireless charging mat nearly works, which means I don’t have to pull the surprisingly un-rattly trim apart to route a charging cable to a phone holder. That means I can run TomTom on my phone sitting on the mat, and occasionally glance down for proper accurate traffic info. I say nearly works, because it can’t supply enough charge to stop the battery from slowly draining when running TomTom, but to be fair that’s more to do with TomTom being a CPU hog than any real fault with Toyota. And, whilst the interface for music playing is predictably clunky, when it’s cranked up the JBL setup genuinely sounds terrific. I have tinnitus and hearing loss so I’m hardly operating at audiophile level, but I couldn’t honestly say the fancy Mark Levinson system in my GS sounds any better. 😁 Conclusion All in all, I am seriously impressed with this car. However, I can see why Toyota haven’t sold many. It’s a very niche market: an odd-looking four-seater with no spare wheel, a tiny boot and an unattractive price. Add in the general public’s completely irrational but depressingly common fear of any car that plugs in to a power socket, and you can see why used PHVs lose value far more rapidly than the standard hybrid. I am under no illusions: the PHV makes no financial sense. The money I’ll save in fuel will be far less than the extra I’ll lose in depreciation compared to the standard Gen4. I didn’t even manage to bag a free-tax one either. However, I’m finding it hard to care about that. For me there is a perverse joy to be gained in perambulating around the countryside whilst using no fuel, that outweighs such pecuniary concerns. I’ve also already enjoyed getting into a pre-heated car in the morning, and that joy will only grow in the winter months. The adaptive headlights – once it’s dark and they’ve stopped flapping around switching on and off – are actually incredibly effective, and even better than the steerable HIDs of the Lexus. Besides, to be honest, even if it didn’t have any of those extras, I’d still have got one over the standard Gen4. Because I’m vainly juvenile at heart, and I’m easily seduced by surface beauty. And any which way you play it, a carbon fibre bootlid is properly f-----g cool.
  7. 4 points
    Car air conditioning never ceases to amuse. Refrigeration technicians are highly,trained, skilled, knowledgeable and qualified. Qualifications are gained over a period of approximately 3 years minimum. Knowledge takes a while longer to accumulate. Garages in the most part, cant afford to employ air conditioning technicians. So to put it simply, why don't you ask the bloke next door if he wouldnt mind asking his youngest to wipe a cloth over the vents and give the ac a once over? Change the pollen filter, clean out the vents, run the unit on recirc only for the shortest possible periods and once or twice a year scald the entire system with air which is hotter than 60 degrees for about 15 minutes. EASY to do on a hot summers day with the ac turned onto maximum heat medium fan speed on a long run during which the engine is at its full working temperature. (Motorways are good for this.)Dont forget to wind the windows down so that the heat escapes and the system carries on trying to throw heat through the ductwork and coils. You then ensure that you kill the bacteria which makes everything stink. Keep the drain clean and clear, blow out the coil and kill bacteria by temperature and not disinfectant. Adding, topping up or routinely replacing refrigerant isnt necessary. Changing refrigerant is only necessary when there has been a leak. All refrigerant leaks have to be degassed, repaired and proven prior to reintroducing refrigerant. Most refrigerant leaks are very hard to detect. They do sell dyes which glow under an ultraviolet lamp however, what they don't tell you is that these dyes will only work if the leak is big enough to let the ultraviolet sensitive element of the dye to escape ; in many cases the molecular size of the escaping gas component is smaller than the dye molecule size and so the gas escapes whilst the dye doesn't. It makes everyone think that the problem went away until the ac stops cooling again. And guess what! you didn't just pay a semiskilled, barely trained, charlatan £165 to be fed a line or two. Recent developments show the motor industry trying to protect its own by introducing "special" refrigerants so that you have to entrust your vehicle to someone who just got back from a fortnights course. Sorry to say, this doesn't make them right ; a properly trained refrigeration technician knows how to handle and is qualified to manage any type of refrigerant from propane to carbon dioxide to ammonia ( I kid you not) and many , many more. A lot of people refer to air conditioning as "air con" some of them think they are being a bit savvy, Nicholas Cage fans and err ...cool. However I think that they are unwittingly being extremely accurate; a lot of the air conditioning trade is "air CON"
  8. 4 points
    I just carried out the annual oil and filter service, for the third year. The car has just done over 76,000 miles. I took the following photo a few hours later to record the odometer. I covered my previous oil service experience here:- I am currently using Petronis 0W-20 oil I got at discount from Euro Car Parts. The only issue I had this time, was the filter being hard to undo. Blame the last person who changed the oil filter - me. A longer socket handle and brute force sorted that out. Toyota seem to be using the same style filter across the range of most the petrol and hybrid engines, including the tool. I checked the coolant which was near the minimum mark. I topped up a little for the first time in well over a year, which is not bad, since only a small amount was needed. Drive belt was checked and looks fine - I have spare in the boot. The cabin and air filters have been change earlier this year. The car is fine for a good while.
  9. 4 points
    I know there must be a more eloquent of doing this, but I've listed screenshots from my Carista App showing the options available on my 2016 Gen 4 Prius. You probably already know that you get a month's free trial when you buy the Carista unit so you do have some time to tweak for free. However, as I've just discovered, it appears that the trial starts from when you first connect the app to the unit and not (as I thought) from when you make your first tweak. Hope this is useful.
  10. 4 points
    So when I was reversing the Aygo the other day (the girlfriend is a learner and couldnt get it out the space in front of my car without worrying) she says to me " the right side reverse light isn't working" Ok, says I.. I will sort it. SO today I buy a couple of bulbs, look up on You tube how to get the rear lens out, take the lens out, change the bulb, test it before refitting and still it does not light up when in reverse. With fading daylight I thought "sod it" and put it back together. When I had screwed the lens back in I looked at it and thought... hmmm why is the lens red... Then I flicked the fog light switch on the light stalk.. Doh!
  11. 4 points
    just an update from my previous posts just back from the dealer and they replaced the timing chain and other components and now the car sounds perfect, i am so happy the problem has been solved thanks to all who helped
  12. 3 points
    I'm surprised you say that, I had a 2000 and 2011 Yaris and with the rear seat slid fully back there was loads of room for four fair sized adults. Even when we went for a weekend away with 2 friends and we all had overnight bags, with the rear seat half way back all the luggage went in the boot and everyone still had enough leg and head room. Sadly, the same cannot be said of Yaris from 2012 onwards, I simply couldn't consider one as there's too little legroom in the back and headroom even worse. Not to mention the generous interior oddments space of earlier models became one very small glovebox and virtually nothing else.
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    I got my Gen2 new in Jan 2007, and 12 years & 107K virtually trouble-free miles later have just handed it on to my newly-married daughter. I say virtually as a couple of years ago the ABS warning lights came on, but this turned out to be a problem with the sensor and not an ABS fault. I've replaced the 12v battery once and the exhaust system once. There's no way I would give my daughter a car that I didn't think was totally reliable. No technical info to share, but for what it's worth in my view if you've got £5K to spend on a 2nd hand car, you could do a hell of a lot worse than a Gen 2 Prius.
  15. 3 points
    No I am NOT going to break out in song........ Its what a difference this nice summer type weather in February is making to my mpg Here is my very latest Prius Gen4 mpg. Sunday 24th Feb was a return journey of 8.5 miles each way. Tuesday 25th Feb, we travelled about 18 mile to Warrington, then moved around that town, Wed 26th Feb Was a return trip to Sheffield area. Today 27th Feb Was 2 return journeys in the local area, largest of which was 5 mile each way, so mostly on cold engine starts. I very impressed with these figures, cant wait for the real summer to come. I just love my Prius.
  16. 3 points
    Hi, Your garage should not have made you a quotation or told you 'to keep an eye on it'. On my mk1 Aygo, the water pump started to leak very early. One day, I brought my car for regular servicing and I was asked to schedule a day rapidly to have the water pump changed. It was replaced under warranty. Your situation is usual with car dealerships. As long as the car is under warranty, there is nothing to worry about, it can wait. And as soon as the warranty has expired, everything needs replacing urgently 😄
  17. 3 points
    The displayed range after a full charge is not directly proportional to your battery capacity, it is based on previous journeys and other data. Your efficiency will be down during winter due to lower ambient temperatures. The battery will generate heat while charging, but that's not enough. Li-ion batteries like operating temperatures closer to 20 degrees.
  18. 3 points
    Some people either don't have the time, inclination or the facilities to undertake their own servicing - nothing to do with not having technical knowledge, which is a wildly inaccurate assumption. Yes, one can have servicing done by independents during the new car warranty period, but the onus is then on the owner to prove the servicing has been carried out to the manufacturer's requirements in the event of a warranty claim which correct servicing has a bearing on. Those who have a manufacturer's extended warranty, often find that to keep the warranty valid, the vehicle has to be serviced within the manufacturer's dealer network - certainly the case with Toyota. Also some manufacturers offer reduced cost servicing for out of warranty vehicles, which is also the case with Toyota. Toyota's Essential Care scheme offers the equivalent of an Intermediate service (silver service) from £99 and the equivalent of a Full service (gold service) from £180, depending on model. There is also a current offer of a silver service and MOT for £99. Worth bearing in mind that if one has a major issue with an out of warranty vehicle for which the manufacturer is approached as regards a goodwill contribution towards the cost of repairs, independent or self servicing will usually mean that goodwill is denied. Goodwill works both ways. Yes, some franchised dealers are better than others, and the same applies to independents. At the end of the day, whether one chooses to have one's vehicle serviced by either a franchised dealer, an independent or to do one's own servicing, it is down to personal circumstances and personal choice. Nothing else!
  19. 3 points
    As much as i love the 3 Toyota Hybrids I have owned (1xAuris Hybrid, 1xGen3 Prius and 1xGen4 Prius) and find they suit my needs very adequately, I think a Prius would not be for you and your needs, and although not owned or even been in a Prius Plus, I have doubts that would too. The Hybrids are good on fuel consumption, the Auris is doing 60+mpg in the summer, the Gen3 I had was doing 66mpg in the summer, and now the Gen4 is doing 75+mpg in the summer. They all drop about 10mpg in the winter months - car engine runs more in the cold weather. I find all 3 comfortable, the Gen4 the most comfortable. If it was just a family of 2 adults plus 3 kids, the Auris would be just ok, the Prius perhaps more so. The Prius plus, giving 7 seats would be better for your family needs, but you do take a hit on mpg (the standard Prius design is more aerodynamic). Its the carrying potentially 4 adults plus 3 kids that will rule the "standard" cars out. And when you talk of carrying 5 bikes plus 5 passengers your mpg will drop dramatically. Physically the Prius Plus is the one more suited to you but you would have to make a very careful decision, and not just done on a test drive (which you would probably love). I dont know what your budget is for this "new" to you car is, but I think you need to look at MPV still. Could you keep what you have got (or even purchase a newer MPV), for the bikes/extended family and buy a used Nissan Leaf mark1 all electric vehicle for doing your local runs to school, shops etc. Mark 1 Leaf should do about 140 miles in the summer and 80-90 miles in the winter on a charge - thats a 5 day week running about covered before a charge overnight. Just my thoughts, though I will have to go and wash my mouth out after talking about Leaf electric vehicles.
  20. 3 points
    I think they have spoilt the look, I love my rear Z lights, not too keen on what they have done to the front either. Its lost some of its individuality 😕
  21. 3 points
    Got my 2016 Yaris Icon Hybrid last July and since then my MPG has varied between 62 summer and 52 winter. I do a lot of short trips around town and the occasional long trip involving motorway driving. I find the type of journey has little impact on consumption, temperature has the largest effect. MPG started to drop below 60 in November and is now steady at 52. I always calculate MPG from full tank to full tank though I find the trip computer in the car to be fairly accurate to within 1-2 MPG. My previous Hyundai i20 Auto only managed 30-40 mpg and was useless on short trips. The Yaris is a much nicer to drive as well.
  22. 3 points
    .... Just in case you didn't know, If you do choose to swap the front tyres around, there is a jacking point (for a trolley jack) under the middle of the engine bay, it has a slight bulge to locate into the jack's cup. So no need to jack up each side seperately with this. Axle stands best used as well. Something else to look out for, some garages have been known to mistakenly jack the car up from just in front of the sill, on the seam that is the joining point of the front wing. This then bends as it's not designed to take the car's weight, the wing then sits proud at its base. The owner assumed the garage knew what they were doing and only (angrily) notices days later when it is too late to complain.
  23. 3 points
    Never ever have to demist the windows. Never ever had to with the past two cars either due to having aircon. Leave it on permanently, never turn it off, and it will dry out the car internally and the windows never mist up. Mick.
  24. 3 points
    I absolutely agree, but since they were 20 years late with heated mirrors and at least 10 years late with electric folding mirrors, I'm not holding my breath. When the Hybrid System was launched in 1997 it was so advanced (and still is very impressive) so it's hard to understand why Toyota are so backward in some other areas (an electric heated front windscreen would be welcome too).
  25. 3 points
    Difficulty - Medium Time - The are 2 stages, one to adjust the brakes themselves and the other to adjust the cable. Cable 10 minutes Including brakes 1 hour. Tools - Jack and wheel brace, flat blade screwdriver, phillips No2 screwdriver, 10mm socket and suitable driver. Trim tool if available. 2 X 10mm spanners. Introduction The handbrake on all 4.2 RAVs is of the "drum in hat/exclusive" type. This consists of a small diameter drum brake which is positioned in the boss of the rear brake disc. Although a handbrake could be incorporated into the disc brake, these are becoming less popular because they rely entirely upon clamping force which requires high actuation force and are exposed to contamination if the vehicle should be used off road. Although the parking brake is efficient, it should be remembered that it is solely a static brake and should never be used dynamically because it is at a huge mecanical disadvantage - a tiny brake inside a large wheel. Even applying it just as the wheels are coming to a stand will eventually cause excessive wear of the components. As it is a static brake the linings should last indefinitely and the brake requires little maintenance. Once adjusted after the linings have bedded to the drum it should normally not be required again for the life of the vehicle. Occasionally the drum brakes may become inefficient due to lack of use, a build up of contaminants or incorrect use. If the linings have become wet (when the vehicle is waded to the depth of 300 - 500mm) the brake will be submerged and can be dried by applying the handbrake with a force of 10kgs for a distance not exceeding 400m at 30mph. If the linings have been replaced they can be bedded by using the same procedure but repeating the process after a cooling period of 1 minute a number of times as required. In this case the brake should be re-adjusted when completed. Once the brakes have been adjusted for the first time, any subsequent adjustment required is likely to be as a result of cable stretch. If you have no reason to suspect the brakes need further adjustment (you haven't renewed the linings etc) then it is acceptable to adjust the cable only. The cost for having the handbrake adjusted can vary. I have heard reports ranging from £25 - £65 which I presume depends on whether the foundation drum brakes have been adjusted or only the cable. Procedure To adjust the foundation parking brake shoes; Working on level ground safely chock the front wheels and release the hand brake. Observing all the usual precautions, jack up and remove one rear wheel. Ideally the vehicle should be jacked and supported on axle stands but if the supplied vehicle jack is used under no circumstances place any part of your body under the vehicle. As the disc is not fixed to the hub it is necessary to secure it by taking two of the wheel nuts and running them up to the disc. The hand brake adjuster is accessible through a rubber bung in the disc. Using a screwdriver, prize out the bung and rotate the disc (it will be stiff as you have to turn the transmission) until the toothed adjuster is visible - it will be somewhere near the bottom ; Use the screwdriver to engage the teeth of the adjuster; To adjust the brake you need to turn the adjuster as shown to expand the shoes; Turn the adjuster until it is no longer possible to move the disc then turn it backwards until the disc is just free. It is OK to hear it rubbing but it should not be tight. Turn the disc a full revolution to make sure there are no tight spots. When complete refit the rubber bung and the roadwheel. Go around and repeat the process at the other wheel but when finished do not lower the wheel to the ground. To adjust the hand brake cable; Go inside the car and use a trim tool or screwdriver to prize the back of the gear stick gaiter upward; The front of the gaiter is hooked under the lower facia so just pull it back to disengage and lift it up over the gearstick but do not try to remove it. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws from the front of the centre console; Fold down the back of the console and remove the cup holders to reveal the 2 fixing bolts. Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the bolts then lift off the console. Note - it will be necessary to reach under and unplug the wire from the cigar lighter. Now with the console removed the handbrake and cable is very easy to see; Use the 2 X 10mm spanners to unlock the adjusting nut. Hold the bottom nut still and undo the top nut anti clockwise. This photo is from a 4.3 but it is the same; Now turn the bottom nut clockwise to tension the cable. The specification calls for 7 - 9 clicks with a pulling force of 20kgs (44 lbs) - thats a heavy pull! The main thing is not to over adjust it so you should still feel some free play at the bottom of the lever travel. Keep adjusting and testing little by little. If you start at the bottom and pull, you should not feel any resistance until about the third click. As a check go back to the jacked up wheel and check that it turns freely. Replace all of the trim in the reverse order remembering to re-connect that cigar lighter. Lower the remaining wheel and don't forget to finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the specified torque of 76 ft/lbs. As a final check take the vehicle to an incline where it would normally just roll and check to see that it does so in both directions. For those that might prefer the handbrake to be on with just one click don't forget that if it binds it will get hot and cause a lot of damage so whatever happens make sure you do these checks to make sure it is free.
  26. 3 points
    Obviously you refering to the HV battery. If you have the service some at Toyota they do a free hv battery test every year which carries a 12 month warranty, this goes on for 10 year. If you have a hv check before the end of the 10th year the warranty goes for another year, effectively 11 years. If you choose to have service done outside Toyota then the cost of hv check is £40. The actual battery is made up of cells which are replaceable, so if one or two cells go down they can be replaced individually. There are now businesses specialising in replacing individual cells, either new or 2nd hand, so to keep costs down. however, when I was doing my research into Toyota hybrid cars, I never saw a car for sale that said “new battery fitted recently” like you do when you replace an exhaust system, fit new brakes all round, 4 new tyres etc; never. And some of my research was on American sites where 250k miles was not unusual, add that with the fact batteries generally don’t like excessive heat (nor cold) meant to me hv batteries are long lasting. Obviously someone is having failures of whole lot or individual cells, or else those specialists businesses would not exist, but failure is not a “common” thing like clutch, alternator, starter motor etc, all of which Toyota hybrids don’t have. Some othe manufacturers hybrids have those things, Toyota doesn’t. the fact Toyota hv batteries have effectively a 11 year warranty (with annual checks) shows they have full confidence in their hv batteries. Remember the Prius hv cars have now been on the uk market 20 years, the hv parts seem to have been well engineered in the first place. Obviously there will be differences in design of the Prius hv system and aYaris hv system but the same ethos will be behind the systems I would think - I never yet heard anything bad about the Yaris hv system like I not heard anything bad about the Prius and other model hv systems. hope it helps.
  27. 3 points
    Toyota's electronics manage the battery charging to maximise life. When we see it as 'full' it really isn't. Similarly, it is never allowed to get near being properly 'empty' even when the battery graphic says it is. There is therefore no need to do any battery 'management' yourself, nor any need to worry about charging it fully and driving til it is empty. I'm surprised to hear Tesla doesn't have a similar system in place. That said, even with automatic management, the PHV battery will degrade slowly over time. I think there's something in the manual which suggests this is likely to manifest as reduced range, but not reduced performance. However, at what point any such range reduction will become noticeable above the daily impact on range of temperature and road conditions, is uncertain. The cars are all too new to have any meaningful data on this.
  28. 3 points
    update its now January 2019 and the battery light still remains on for a while and the car haven't failed me once what a fantastic little car I would recommend it to anyone .
  29. 3 points
    If you want to save money, just keep the Auris. With such low mileages, I can't see how it could ever make financial sense to change the car.
  30. 3 points
    Auto wipers that need constant adjustment . Ah yes, yet another Toyotism, the rear screen. It's fine at speed, just dont stop! Mind, on the Gen4 I found the wiper was great for a left hand drive, hardly cleared much at all for a right hand drive. Unusual for a Japanese car, that is normally a European modified for right hand drive quirk. As for RainX I found that builds up and yellows, then starts to peel. It looks as though the rear glass is treated like the side front windows to repel water, just need stronger gravity for it to work! Dictionary explanation of Toyotaism. It's reliable for a long time, just does not work as you want it too.
  31. 3 points
    I'm into my second week with my 2015 Icon hybrid and finding it great fun after my Vauxhall 1.4 SE auto. I think I'm also getting the hang of driving it as I'm seeing 60.7mpg average when driving mixed motorway, local and suburban routes, keeping to the max speed limits (driving at but not exceeding them whenever safe to do so). Best average so far, 97.4 mpg for a short local trip with the engine fully warmed before setting off Its one of the most relaxing cars I've driven in my 60 odd years of driving 🙂
  32. 3 points
    Yes Alternator, I meant to say "like an alternator would", nevermind! I took the car into the dealers for their quick look and between several hours and several discussions with the mechanic, they haven't got a clue. I do not recommend lunch of tea and biscuits! They provide sandwiches at the Lexus garage. Ah you have left the lights on. No! Ah the dash cam is draining the battery. No the usb turns off with the ignition. I ran it for two years in the Prius gen4. Ah this is a different car. It still turns off. I don't think.so. I checked. No it has residual voltage on it still. No I checked with a voltmeter. It doesn't charge with the mains charger. Yes it does I have checked. When you ran the aircon/heater it drains the battery in the morning, the charger turns off when it's fully charged. No the mains charger turns back on when you do that, and charges the 12v battery as well. I'll check current leakage. Fine. There is 500mA drain on the battery. That does not explain how it was completely flat overnight, I have left interior lights on overnight on other cars without adverse effects. Must be a faulty battery. What about the 500mA drain. We are replacing the battery, next week fine? If I must. While we are at it. The Phone charger does not work. Ah you need a special phone for that. Yes I have one. Ah what model though.Just listen it does not work, it will not turn on. Please don't hit your head against the wall. LOOK the phone worked fine in the last car. Ah we will have a look. Further installments next week., if I'm not had up for GBH!
  33. 3 points
    If you took it to the dealer they would have changed the suspension and the tyres.
  34. 3 points
    Purchased today. Has some typical "Yaris tailgate / reversing camera corrossion" which will be fixed and repainted under warranty. Other than that, should make for a great little car for her. Thanks. Another (Japanese) joins the club that is Toyota motoring.
  35. 3 points
    Toyota have far from lost sight of the future, they are at the forefront of technology, just not what everyone else is doing. The Toyota mantra for some 20 odd years has been to produce cars with zero emissions, but at that time, the only way forward was Hybrid for which they are now mainstream. I was lucky enough to talk to the UK chap in charge of the Mirai Hydrogen project, what an exciting future that is. Imagine being a fuel station owner now, having to buy your fuel from a refinery and paying the going rate. Roll on a few years (available now but not mainstream) and you will find your local petrol station making their own Hydrogen on site. Not tied to any fuel manufacturer, making your own fuel from electricity and water, now that truly is the future, and it's not far away either, all we need is the vehicles to be built at much lower costs, the fuel stations are coming, more and more added each year. When we have cars buses and lorries on Hydrogen it will take off massively, the only trouble then is taxation, there is currently no tax on zero emissions, imagine what will happen when zero emission vehicles become the mainstream?
  36. 3 points
    If you have bought a brand new battery then I would definitely fit it in place of what you have. Otherwise it will just deteriorate. One dead easy check you could do on the old battery would be a simple discharge test for a few minutes. If you measure the voltage on the resting battery (after it has stood for a few hours) you should see at least 12.3 volts. Now turn on your headlights and heated rear screen without the engine running. That will draw around 30 amps. A new and fully charged battery would support that for at least a couple of hours and it should not fall below 12 volts in the first hour. For your old battery its just a quick check on seeing whether the voltage holds up over say 10 minutes under those conditions. If the voltage starts falling quickly then the battery is faulty and not holding sufficient charge. When you start the car from cold you should see the voltage across the battery rise to perhaps as high as 15 volts (or even slightly more under extreme cold conditions) and then see it fall back a little. When the engine (alternator) is really hot then the voltage could be as low as 13.5.
  37. 3 points
    I bought a set of these polishing foam disks for about a fiver that I could connect to my cordless drill and just used some cutting compound. I'd tried two different headlight polishing kits before this method, the polishing kits took a significant amount of elbow grease and yielded poor results compared to the ease and finish the drill attachment gave.
  38. 3 points
    I've recorded every single fillup in all 7 Prius I've owned since 2002 for over 300,000 miles and logged them in a database where is also record the B trip MPG, resetting B at the time of each fill. The database shows me the actual mpg, difference in mpg and %. On all versions the % varies between about 2% and 8% but roughly on average about 5% seems right, so that's what I deduct from any displayed figure.
  39. 3 points
    Just a quick post to tell you of a price reduction on the Toyota Avensis handbrake actuator. WAS £850 NOW £545 Price includes VAT and delivery to any UK mainland address, applies to part number 46300-05031. Time limited offer, I will post up as CLOSED when the offer expires Kingo
  40. 3 points
    The 700W number is interesting. My commute home is 15 miles and takes about 30 minutes. I typically get 65mpg to 72mpg in moderate weather. There is 9.6 kWh per litre of petrol. 65 mpg is 1/65 = 0.0154 gallon per mile 1/65 / 0.22 = 0.0699 litres per mile 1/65 / 0.22 * 9.6 = 0.6713 kWh per mile 15 mile trip uses 15 * 0.6713 = 10.0695 kWh 30 minutes of AC at 700W = 0.35 kWh Petrol to electric efficiency is probably about 1/3 so approximately 1kWh for AC. This is approximately a 10% decrease in efficiency and 65 mpg goes down to 58.5 mpg if the AC is on fully. This is consistent with what I see in really hot weather.
  41. 3 points
    I would like to share my experience with you guys. I have recently bought a 2011 Avensis tourer 2.0 d4d to use as a taxi. it came with privacy/tinted glass from factory. the council does not allow this for passenger safety. I sourced some windows from a breakers yard from a 2012 model. 2012 is the facelift model. so the glass is the same in the preface lift and face lift model. the rear quarter(boot) and tailgate glass had to be removed professionally as its bonded. I used the same guy who the breakers yard used to save on labour costs. the door glass I changed at home with the removal of the door card. I am now left with privacy glass if anyone is interested in purchasing please get in touch, i will attach before and after photos. I would like to say thank you to Konrad for the moral support and help.
  42. 3 points
    Hmmm, maybe they've changed the calibration since my very early model. I only use ECO to accelerate if people are behind me when on a dual carriageway and I'm not causing bunching, as virtually everything passes me while I'm accelerating (away from a roundabout, for example) - even some very low powered cars. I think governments of both parities have shown unbelievable levels of incompetence with things like VED, plastic bags, pollution control (look how many court cases they've lost!) for more than 15 years. Government (and other) scientists warned way back that the VED favouring diesels would cause more problems than they solved, but were ignored. Many bought the cars influenced by lower VED, which only saved the the equivalent of one or two tankfuls a year, if that. A few friends who bought them when the were wholly unsuitable for their low annual mileage and generally short journeys were shocked when I did some sums and showed: they got worse mpg (and therefore probably emissions) than their petrol equivalents the diesel versions were about £1,000 dearer to buy than the petrol equivalent (at that time) servicing was more expensive resale values were lower (and that was before the current backlash!). For two of them, I reckoned they were £1-1½ thousand pounds a year worse off taking all that into account even with the slightly cheaper VED! Also, one of the carers looking after my Mum a few years ago bought an Astra diesel and found her battery went flat every 3-5 days. She did lots of ¼-½ mile journeys each day with just enough time in between for the engine to get nearly cold. Diesels generally need more electricity to start because of their higher compression and sturdier (heavier) components and therefore need more driving time to put the charge back. She ended up getting her husband to charge her battery twice a week! VED rules from April last year make me think the whole government barely has any brain cells between them! Whilst I agree EVs should be encouraged, vast proportions of the population simply cannot use them at the moment because they have no off-road parking where they could charge at home, and insufficient charging points elsewhere to make up for it. Surely, it should be a no-brainer to give some incentive for the next cleanest bands of cars, but obviously not. An extreme example is the BMW i3 REX (Ranged Extended) which attracts the same tax as the dirtiest petrol diesel car currently available, even though it's almost a 100% EV, but with a device to get you out of trouble in an emergency. If anything, this is ideal for people for whom range anxiety would otherwise prevent them from buying EVs. For many, PHEVs are a brilliant solution, allowing all or nearly all EV only driving for most daily commutes, but give the ability to make long road trips with no inconvenience. Again, after 1st year taxed like any other petrol/diesel. Before buying my latest Prius, I even shortlisted a Tesla Model S with over 300 mile claimed range. I ruled it out for a few reasons, but a significant one was even that range and lack of charging stations on the East of England would have made some of my less frequent journeys nightmarish, and in the absence of Tesla's very fast Supercharger stations, take an awful long time to charge up. I worked out that on a trip from the Norfolk/Suffolk border to Hull and back, if I could only use a domestic socket, I'd need a 30+ hour charge - a pain on a day trip! And it gets £310 VED because of its price. The charge point situation has improved a little since then, but not enough.
  43. 3 points
    I'd say wheels need to be balanced. That's why they put those tiny wheel weights on them, maybe some fell off.
  44. 3 points
    Problem with people saying they'll pay for damage, is that they often don't realise the actual cost. Aside from that they often want the repairs done as cheaply as possible. Is she paying for a courtesy car whilst yours is being repaired - probably not. Whether or not she pays, your insurance company should be informed. I would be inclined to just let your insurance deal with it. At least that way you know that a reputable company is dealing with the repairs, and one usually gets a guarantee on the repairs.
  45. 3 points
    A few (not particularly good ) Piccies. Maybe I'll have another go!
  46. 3 points
    Not sure you will get many answers. In the UK the National speed limit is 70mph - motorways and some dual carriageways. If caught driving at 100mph one faces being fined between 125% and 175% of one's weekly wage subject to a maximum of £1,000 for non-motorways and £2,500 for motorways. Plus a possibility of a driving ban - an instant ban if travelling at 45% more than the speed limit in force where caught.
  47. 3 points
    Once upon a time, when it was a DIY job, I used to change engine oil/filter every 6 months, as It just seemed a sympatico thing to do....I even used engine flush, which was probably daft, as some must have been retained. Nowadays, like Kithmo, with only 3k Gen 4 miles pa, changing oil, other than for the problem of water condensing in the crank case, seems a bit daft. Especially as the Gen 4 ICE does not even do all the suggested mileage. Apropos of bore glazing, It was always the received wisdom, that if you wanted a fast car, drive it extra fast straight out of the show room But conforming to the the service intervals is very important as with my wife’s IQ has revealed. The car is an 09 and 10 years old, but just 20k miles, and now the paint on the roof has started peeling. I thought of having the roof vinyl covered for about £200, but using Frosty’s advice I wrote to Toyota Customer Services Flying a kite, you could say. Expected the reply to be my sandwiches wrapped in a road map, I was surprised (to say the least), to get reply suggesting I take the car to Jemca body shop for inspection. Just 3 years warranty in 09, and 2 years for paint, this was unexpected, but the car had a full Mr Toy service history, as had my 2 Prius, both bought new. The body shop car measured paint depth on all panels, mentioned that this car was a Japanese import, said it was one of the better paint jobs, but that the roof undercoating had become contaminated, and said he would submit a report to Toyota head office. Ah well, I thought, thats the end of it, move on, nothing to see here. But......last week I had a phone call from the Body Shop saying that a COMPLETE RESPRAY of the whole had been approved, at a Toy cost of (wait for it) .....£3000! And not only that, but I would get a loan Yaris auto for the 2/3 weeks of stripping the car down completely! All I can say is that current a Toyota is the ONLY car to buy, and that letting the main agent service the car is the most intelligent thing a person can do It seems that I just had to tell this story, as it gob smacks most folk, but is probably the very best word of mouth advertising Mr Toy could ever spend money on
  48. 3 points
    hi stuart and here are some images of my car again after a wash,clay & a wax. i absolutely love keeping our cars clean if i spent all day cleaning i would still be happy at the end of the day.
  49. 3 points
    For those who wear spectacles and experience glare from car lights at night or in poor light conditions, it may be worth looking at the different types of lenses available. For example Zeiss have their DriveSafe lenses, of which one of the benefits is reduced glare from street lights and car lights. My wife has these and found them to be better for her. https://www.zeiss.co.uk/vision-care/en_gb/products-services/spectacle-lenses/drivesafe-lenses.html Obviously there may be alternatives on offer.
  50. 3 points
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