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I don't believe these figures. I filled the tank to the brim on Thursday and we left for Northumberland from Cambridge. Hit the A1 and A69 to Hexham with two comfort breaks. Didn't hang about but kept to fast traffic flows. Did one run on Friday to two English heritage places on A and mainly B roads in Northumberland. Came home today on A1 to Leeds, M1 to Nottingham (sister) and A52/A1/A14/M11 to home. Filled the car to the brim. E5 petrol both fills. Total mileage for trip : 638 Miles Brim to brim fill up 27.18 litres E5 / 6 gallons. That's 108 Miles to the gallon. I really can't fathom it out. When I say brim to brim it was manual fill after auto shut off until fuel seen gurgling. Even if I'm 2 litres out it is still remarkable. BTW, aircon off for most of the time. I love this Yaris!

Toyota is the only company that has sold me a car that matches or improves their official combined MPG figures. Their brochures quote a 54-64 mpg combined figure for the Yaris Cross. I now achieve a regular 70 mpg which I have calculated by long division sums, rather than depending on the digital read out. However, both figures are nearly always the same. I have previously owned Audis, VWs, Skodas and not one of them achieved anywhere near their official claims. In fact, some of the claims were totally misleading and I’m surprised that they were never taken to task on the matter. The Yaris Cross truly is a remarkable car and I’m glad I eventually moved over to the Toyota family.

Lol, great figures indeed 👍 I can tell you that those Yarises that are flying around me on M25 on daily basis does not get near these figures at all 🚀🫢 Yaris hybrid currently is the cheapest car to run from all available energies, petrol, diesel, hybrid or electric. Hybrids indeed should simply remain available as alternative fuel cars post 2035, even some diesel and petrol only applications. The other makes hybrids, some of them has come close to Toyota as efficiency but remain more complicated as mechanics and not to my personal like, although they are better than before so they should stay too. The true beauty of Toyota hybrids power train is the exceptional economy, the smooth and easy drive, the minimum maintenance requirements similar to full electric cars, the reliability and owners expense on a long run.

Every engine I've owned hasn't given a toss who's fuel they've been feeding off, my wallet however prefers the cheapest. I have never detected any gain in mpg using one fuel against another and to be honest, I'm unsure how anyone could outside labratory conditions. There's a very easy test that, to the best of my knowledge, nobody has conducted. It involves all those who say their car works better with one fuel vs another. What you do is get half a dozen of those people and give them six identical brand new cars. Tell them each car has been filled up with different fuels and at the end of the week, get them to swap cars. By the end of week six they'll have driven all six cars. Ask those people to rate them from the best and worst - best mpg, smoothest engine etc. How many of you seriously believe any two people will come up with the same results? Now the twist is that what I'd actually have done, was filled all six cars up with the same fuel, I'd have just told the drivers I'd filled up with different fuels. 🤣 You can bet your last penny nobody will say all cars were the same. When that test has finished repeat it with six more armchair experts, only this time tell them which fuel is in each car. ( but don't tell them it's the same fuel they're using each time ). What do you reckon the results would be after six weeks? This time I'm willing to bet that they'll all give similar ratings - the most expensive v-power super-duper fuel will obviously be the most popular, the rubbish from Morrisons cheapest fuel on the market will be bottom. ( It'd be Home Bargins if they supplied petrol ) I love mind games but for the individuals involved it'd prove nothing. If someone feels they're better off with the most expensive fuel then it's impossible to change their mind. And there absolutely nothing wrong with that. If people are happy then that's all that ever matters. I'm now off to wash my shirts with new formula turbo charged Persil automatic because Persil's old stuff that made my shirts whiter than white just wasn't good enough. 🤣 Don't you just love the power of advertising.

I've found this in my own Mk4 Yaris. Just clocked up 11400 miles and I swear it just keeps on getting better and better. One thing that has been most notable is that my mpg between neck-to-neck fill-ups is getting better and better each time. Another thing I have noticed is that I can do a round trip to the local shops in EV mode 90% of the way (as long as the SoC was good at the start) there and back. I could never do that when the car was new...

That's not vandalism! That has definitely "popped" due to being stressed in some way. Especially as it has shattered near the edge seals on both sides. If it were me, I would persist as I am guessing that you are still in warranty. Escalate to Toyota GB if you get no joy from the dealer that sold it to you...

Once I drive 20 miles in negative, I managed to fill up around 40ltr after that which means I had left with 2ltrs of petrol in the tank. It was not my choice just specific circumstances that had happened and the car was showing messages “low fuel” but there was nothing around except me, the country lanes and the moon. 🫢

The range to empty is a complete waste of time. It will always predict the range to reserve and it varies on how the car is driven. The trip computer on the whole is a toy and can’t be relied upon to give accurate data. The most consistent indicator is the low fuel light on a level road which is a float.

Since you mentioned that, I have to derail this thread with the most awesome/stupidest thing you may well have ever seen:

It’s quite possible Jeff depending on the route although you need to give it more time for a better average as it might do somewhat less around town. I personally wouldn’t deprive myself of the wonderful automatic air conditioning which on yours also features nanoe x facility. You might lose a few percent but you’ll lose the refinement if you don’t. The a/c on the Yaris is very efficient.

Saturday I decided to go ahead and do the sound deadening. There's lots of vids on YT about how to remove the trim panels and as long as you are gentle when pulling out the poppers you should be fine, although I did buy a pack of spares off ebay, and needed one of them. Here's the boot with all the panels removed: I removed the silver struts you can see in the first pic before I carried on. I then went round and covered with sheets of this: https://www.dodomat.com/collections/sound-deadening/products/dodo-dead-mat-hex-50-sheets I got as far into the wheel arches as I could reach with my arm. It's a little easier than wallpaper or tiling as you don't have to pattern match and you don't have to cover every piece of metal. Also I didn't cover any electrical components or vent holes. I cut holes into the sheets where bolt holes needed to be. I used 30 of the dodomat sheets. I don't have photos of the foam as I was getting tired and forgot to take any. I put cut areas of this https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Insulation-Earthwool-50mm-Acoustic-Roll---15-6m²/p/143388 right into the wheel arches, and on the wheel arch sides and the boot floor. Again I took care not to cover or get contact glue on components or vents. The roll on the sides is covered by the panels. The roll on the boot floor I covered by cutting a piece of paint dust sheet to size and securing it under the panels. With the boot floor taken up with the spare and jack and other bits an bobs you can barely see it and of course when the cover is over you can't see any of the work. I think as the glass wool is covered it won't get disturbed and won't shed bits. I haven't actually gone for a drive on a fast noisy DC but I will be tomorrow and will see how it goes. It took me 6 hours all told, as I didn't want to rush and had to plan and cut as I went along. I also have 20 of the deadn sheets left so I might have a go at the back doors too at some point. Total cost, £80 for the deadn sheets although I could have got the 30 pack for £50. I already had the insulation from when I did the loft but to buy is £63. Glue, scissors, £10. So it cost me under £100 but even with having to buy the roll, it would have been £160. 30 sheets of deadn is 7.5kg and I didn't use much roll really so I've only added less than 10kg I reckon. It will be interesting to see if it was worth it.

On Saturday cruising back from helping my brother buy a new car, driving on the M25, when the warn alert sounded, the instrument display caution and warnings ⚠️ lit up the dashboard, plus the usual messages like 'Check Parking Brake' and a few others. The car felt and ran normal. I took the next junction a minute later and stopped in a safe place. Turning off and restarting the engine made no difference, so I continued my journey home, and apart car drove fine, including cruise control. The next day, I got my Launch diagnostic reader to get the code - P0301 misfire cylinder 1 current and pending. I had a box of new sparkplugs indoors, so I got to work. When removed the old sparkplugs, I was shocked by their condition! All had the tips burnt away as shown in the photos. I am sure I installed them in 2019 and got them from Ebay. The set before them, was installed in 2015. Those set s were bought either from Euro Car Parts or a Toyota garage with an Ebay shop, so were genuine. They still had their tips and looked hardly used. I suspect the last set could have been fakes, because my car use dropped since 2020 and my average mileage is now 4000 miles. Another possibility is the E10 fuel! The new sparkplugs are Denso SC16HR11 which superceded the SC20HR11. I bought them from Halfords a few months ago on offer for around £30 for the set at the time. I removed the fault codes and the engine started without issue and the no warnings or cautions. Car sorted. 👍🏾 Now the weird thing was, on the outward journey, I said to my brother, 'most breakdowns are preventable with maintenance'. Then on the return journey on the same stretch of the M25 my car bites me. 😂 One final thing, my brother bought a 2019 Kia Proceed Shooting Break from Bletchley Kia. I have to say, the car is great and would be happy with the Kia Ceed estate. The kit level is extremely high. The main take is check and change the parts in good time and be wary of fakes!

So I noticed a surface scratch on my '19 Corolla. Probably the result of my retirement since I've stopped taking grocery deliveries and now go to the supermarket every week. Anyway I thought I should touch it up so sent off for a colour matched paint using my reg number. The paint delivered today was described as 'Emotional Red, Metallic'. It didn't look right to me - too scarlet and I didn't think my Corolla had metallic paint. But I tried a bit in a mostly out of sight place and it turns out to be correct. So I touched up the scratch and a couple more minor chips on the bonnet. Then being a sensible chap I decided to put the container on a small shelf by the car in the garage. It turned out there was already a small touch-up container there, unopened. I assumed it was probably from my previous car - an orange Honda Jazz - but on inspection the label said "Toyota Emotional Red (Met)". Le sigh. I now have a vague recollection of getting some touch-up paint when I bought the car. I suppose that's why it's called "Emotional Red". I'm feeling a wasted £6.50 worth of emotion 😒

Just refilled with 2 miles on the range meter. Filled with 30.26 litre to first click. ( never fill more nowadays so as not to damage the fuel recycling thingummy). MPG meter 5% optimistic from calcs. 424 range now. I’m sure there is a safe 20 miles left in the tank at least.

I’m a bit of a belt and braces type of guy and would never on purpose let my fuel tank go so low. I’d be squirming in my seat and be hyper vigilant in locating the nearest filling station. If your estimate that 6.5 litres left in the tank is fairly accurate then all is well.

I didn’t want anybody getting excited about something they can’t have. No need to get snipey, I’m not confusing it with an IED.

We all make mistakes, it's all part of learning - if you don't try something, how do you know you can't do it, you learnt to drive and passed a test didn't you

Just don't drop the phone.......!

Its not about what the car will run on its about whether you believe the additives will keep your car running better than if you dont use fuel with the additives, the video below shows the effects of carbon build up over time you may believe the additives will not help i believe they will and i am happy to pay the extra for the premium petrol, there is a lot of info about carbon build up in direct injected petrol engine and its not taking 10 years for it to become a problem this fuel may save you an expensive trip to the garage! As i have said I use Momentum 99 i dont believe the extra additives are "Snake Oil" and as the difference in price between Shell E10 and Momentum 99 (E5) is a couple of pence (last time i checked) i think its worth the extra.

Indeed. And the things gets even worse when communicating with younger people. Sometimes I need to visit Google search to translate myself the text sent by my daughters and then reply 😂😉👌

I'll bet you're like a kid waiting for Santa. 🙂 1. The battery in my 2021 HEV is Lithium. 2. AFAIK the RAV 4.5 uses the 4th Gen Hybrid system. 3. Try not to cuddle it. The neighbours might be alarmed - Oh, and buy a StopLock Pro for use overnight and secluded areas.

They definitely get better. I once spoke to someone on the development side who suggested that the engine management is subdued for a period (I think circa 5000 miles was mooted at the time) to help the bedding in process and many engine ecu’s have a learning parameter that will adapt to the driving style. In other words it might increase performance up to about 5% by driving hard and reduce it into eco by the same by very steady driving. That thing of Cyker’s is probably up to 7% the way he drives it 😉

I wish there were better ways to appeal such things - It seems very unfair that we're expected to be literally psychic, yet they don't get any comeback for failing to maintain the signage. On some of my hooning roads there are lots of signs that are covered by overgrowth that are not being sorted out; A load of us were stuck behind someone who thought the limit was still 30 because the NSL sign had been assimilated into the hedgerow and I guess they'd recently had a speeding fine as they were absolutely nailed at 30mph! That said, you'd think they'd have gotten some sort of hint when even the bus overtook them! (I didn't think those small country busses could move so fast )

Good afternoon, I have nagging questions about the possibility of an engine swap in my 2022 Aygo X. I have a 1.0 engine with eCVT transmission. I am deeply in love with this car because it holds the road the best of all the cars I've driven. Also, longer road trips are so comfortable. For me, even the size is perfect since I am the only user of it. The only drawback I notice is, unfortunately, the lack of power and the possible solution could be swapping an engine. There begins my concerns. I have on my eye a Peugeot Prince 1.6 turbocharged engine. To be exact it is the "EP6FDT" model. It is an inline-4 layout generating about 220 hp. I have an idea where to mount the intercooler, put my Aygo X on a different suspension (able to support the heavier engine without dipping its nose to the ground) and other stuff but still - I'm not sure about the rest. How should the engine mounts be modified and will they fit at all? Will I still have A/C? (probably I would have to "adapt" somehow the whole unit...) The transmission is not designed for this much HP, so with what I should go with? (Automatic transmissions stole my heart by their comfort so I want them exactly) Will even the transmission fit? And what about connecting it with the drivetrain? And so many other questions about the electronics and "pairing" it with the car computer itself despite the different ECU dedicated to this engine... Before I get replies like "You should have bought a different car" I would like to clarify something... I'm only making this post to solve my endless questions about modifying the car I truly adore. Maybe someone more experienced will give me some advice or someone will share their experience with swapping the engine in Aygo X. If anyone has a better idea of adding much more power I am open to hearing it 😄 Hopefully, my concerns and questions will be solved 🙂 Thank you and have a pleasant evening ❤️

In addition to my previous comment, I had personal experience of a colleague who ran out of fuel on the M74 near Beatock Summit during a horrible winter night which required an AA patrolman to attend. The police were also in attendance to illuminate the area in case of a potential collision on the hard shoulder. My colleague was driving a Ford Mondeo which had an indicated fuel range of 70 miles left in the tank. That’s why I’m a belt and braces type of guy.

The Prince PSA engine is a steaming pile (as found in the mini cooper s and 207) anything is possible if your pockets are deep enough a drive in, drive out type service will be in £15-20K range, tbh i would fit a 1.6 Yaris GR engine as it a nice compact 3 cylinder tbh that sort of money you are into a Yaris GR/ GRMN or decent GT86 with none of the headaches and they will hold there value

Hi, some good advice given and here are my two cents. It is possible to change the engine, however it’s not just the engine but many more things like transmission, wiring loom, immobiliser, suspension set up etc, pretty much you will need to use only the body structure from your Aygo x. A donor car needs to be Yaris or Yaris cross, and in uk for example they comes only as hybrids, which is good, actually the best drive train. The price of this conversion will be higher than you just swap your Aygo x for one of these. These three cars are built on the same platform tnga, and share many similar parts and donnoring from one to another might be easier than you think, no need of cutting metal structures or welding. But it’s a big job that it’s not worth it by any means, unless you have a garage and do many of the jobs yourself. My suggestion to you is to test drive Yaris or Yaris cross and see how you lie, any of them and simply swap the Aygo . This is the smartest move imo. Good luck

Nothing's impossible if you have the money and you're crazy enough... If money and sanity are beyond your worries, the consequences of that mod shouldn't be. You have a new 2022 car, still under warranty, that will be destroyed with that mod. How are you going to MOT it? Will it pass with all the mods? Is all of that legal? Also, it's value will plummet, making it almost impossible to sell, and believe me, with a mod like that many things will go wrong, no doubt about that. The best thing you can do is to trade it in. Get another car, as already advised by other members. A car that gives you what you need. I understand your problem, the engine that powers the Aygo X is a complete dog, especially on inclines. I live on an island with a lot of them, and tourists don't like it. It's horrible when you have to get it moving uphill. The car is very nice to drive, very economical, but is best suited for long and flat stretches of roads, or flat cities. If you need more power, get a more powerful car. It's a new 2022 Toyota. Talk to someone and see if you can trade it for a Yaris with a better engine.

Haven't driven the cross, though not surprised by what you've said. Went from a MK3 to the MK4 Yaris myself, it's a great car. Always felt the cross with the same engine/power will be a bit lacking. When the cross 130 does come out it will be better. That is amazing mpg. On myt app the other day says 24% fuel left, 100 miles range left in the car. Start the car after a few days, range left gone up to 145 miles and 32% left, don't know how that works out.

Whilst the Yaris was in for a paint repair, they loaned me a Yaris Cross for 2 days. I hate to say it (sorry Cross owners) but I didn't like it. In comparison to the Yaris, it was less pleasant to drive and I found the engine was running almost all of the time. The dealer agreed with me and said the Cross is a heavier car and has the same power train but really needs something beefier. For completeness, the one I was given was the "4WD" version. For me, the Yaris is practical and fun to drive, the Cross is a nice car but not for me Again, each to his own 😁

I don't see the point of testing the suspension over speed bumps. Maybe they have company cars, or hire vehicles. Remember, a hire car is a better off road vehicle than any 4x4. It can carry far more than any other car in it's class, is faster on pull off, and can brake far more sharply 😁

I think what I meant to say was they should allow Hybrids to continue to be sold alongside electric after the deadline for the death of petrol and diesel non hybrid engined cars. I know Sunak said he would push the date back to 2035, but it aint set in stone yet - he could face a rebellion from certain members of his own party - it will take legislation to postpone the deadline, and until that is done and dusted, there is still every possibility the delay to the deadline may not go ahead. I know Starmer's party has said they will stick to the 2030 deadline. If only they would allow fuel efficient Hybrids to be sold alongside electric only after the deadline - they are not perfect, but at least they are more suitable for people that dont have their own private parking and home charger, such as those living on terraced streets, in flats, and other places where charging an electric is not possible - a Hybrid would be the next best thing. If only a compromise could be reached, it would be very sad if even the Hybrid system is banned.

108 mpg is insane economy to be honest, quite unheard of a few years back. Thats better than even the most frugal diesel can do. If only the Tories would allow petrol hybrids to continue to be produced after 2030 even if petrol and diesel non hybrid are banned, it would give a fair and reasonable alternative to solely electric drivetrains which not everyone is able to practically own or afford. I imagine round town used for short journeys the mpg would reduce substantially, but to achieve over 100mpg on a long run is very impressive. I have managed to wring out 61mpg from my 1.33 petrol on a run, with a/c off and no other load on the engine and round town doing short 3 mile runs back and forth to work all I can get then is 30 - 35mpg, and even worse if I get stuck in bad rush hour traffic. Although I couldnt afford the cost of a brand new Hybrid right now and have reservations about battery reliability past 10 years old in a second hand Hybrid, if I could afford a newer Hybrid mk4 I would have one at that sort of mpg returns. Jthspace - Is yours the Yaris Cross or the standard Yaris ?

Right??? I keep saying, this new Yaris drivetrain is insane! Toyota absolutely bulls-eyed this combination of chassis and drivetrain. I don't know of any other car that has such high levels of responsiveness and handling, yet can still return double the mpg of most other petrol cars at the same time! I think this is the first hybrid than can even beat diesels at all speeds! If it wasn't for the high cost, I think almost every small car would be replaced by one of these!!

I sometimes think that a horse I have put a bet on thinks it has to run sideways! 😄

And I’m betting that extra (@20p /litre) £9 per tank gives waay more smiles per mile valued at waay more than £9. I think of it sideways somedays. would you feed a racehorse crap hay and expect a Derby winner?

Hi all, well I was passing my Toyota dealer a couple of hours ago and popped in. Asked if I could speak with someone who would be aware of Rav 4 security. The lady said to me that she had worked there for several years and there were no security issues Toyotas!!!!! When I informed her that she was mistaken and gave her the relevant information she said she would go see the in house garu who new all. She came back within 2 minutes to tell me that Toyota had issued a fix but it was only being rolled out in London and parts of Midlands. However in view of my concern the guy is going to contact Toyota and get details of parts and prices. He will then telephone me with relevant information.What annoys me about Toyota's narrow minded actions is that it hasn't occurred to them that just because I/other owners live in other parts of the country that we aren't ever likely to go to London/ Midlands. As it happens I am going to a wedding in a few months time in the Cheshire area and was in the centre of London a few moths back as well.Will be interesting to hear what this wiz kid has to say when they ring back Terry

Just come back from using the car. Engine was faultless. I also notice the eager throttle response and midrange pull. The sudden revs has not happened yet. The car has got back what it was missing for over 3 years. Hope everyone see this post and use the info to check their spark plugs.

Aye. I knew it would only mute it, never stop it, but altho it took a while I'm glad I did it. The only annoying thing is it now highlights where all the other noise is coming from. It's like a rabbit hole of sound proofing 🤣

Guys , why just not leave it. No point of argument here. Supermarket fuels are generally speaking lower quality than top tiers fuels from bp, shell, esso, texaco etc, when compared e10 vs e10. However if you use e5 from Tesco for example in comparison to e10 from shell then the supermarket wins. I had almost an empty tank this morning and I really wanted to fill up e10 from bp as I haven’t used different from Tesco momentum for a long time now, the price was 1.56 per litre but the shop was closed, so again I filled up at my favourite Tesco e5 for 1.57 per litre. Usually when using the same fuel for some time and then you get used to how the engine sounds and the car performance, then after you switch to another type petrol and you can note the difference easily. Same applies to tyres, engine oils, wipers etc . I had once purchased 4 new Firestone tyres to find out that they were much worse than the old Michelin and Yokohama they replaced, what a joke thought then. Lesson learned. If you happy with something either been tyres, engine oil or petrol, just stick with it and think no twice to buy again and again. For some will be e10, for others e5, I know what my car likes and what I like and spend my money on. Tyres - Goodyear, petrol - Tesco e5 , oil - Petronas , filters - blueprints., Mann and list goes on. I don’t need a dealer, a journalist or a engineer to tell me which is which, I had it, I test it, pass, I am buying it. , not happy., walk away.

Those are 100% fake plugs. Honestly, only buy parts from main dealers if you are looking for original and if you are looking for aftermarket avoid Asian names as those are most likely copies, bad quality fake parts. Only Denso parts are real if bought from big companies like Eurocarparts, however there are slight possibility to stock fake parts too. The worst vendors are those sellers like e-hybrid, and his all other names on eBay that sell fake oem or poor quality parts. Genuine car parts independent resellers almost does not exist in the world unless they sell cars and have own service garages. ⚠️ No car manufacturers spare parts department offer great discounts to make reselling their original parts at profit as independent resellers. ⚠️ Been in the car parts business for long time. Some people argue with me here about this and about new car sales profits but they had no idea of these businesses at all, and I had worked within for years. Although things has changed with the time the general idea and business model remains the same so there is no way you make money off selling original parts on eBay , unless they are fake or stolen. This new one on the picture also doesn’t look right to me. The tip colour ok, but the metal housing , the tread , the central electrode, the markings and most importantly the ground electrode look non genuine. You put them in, but if me I will buy new set from Toyota dealer and take one off these and compare and if the difference is real as I can see and I am right I will change them all again. 👌

Quick update on our car saga. Silver 20 plate MY19 Corolla now handed back and now in a Two Tone White/Black MY20 Corolla 20 plate. Both 2.0 Excels. Mileage checks out on this one, backed by regular Toyota Dealer servicing. Due to various delays and us being more cautious, it’s taken a little longer than it should. At least this one has everything add up. Certainly learned a lesson and will be more wary in future. If you have doubts on a car, walk away. In hindsight enough red flags on this one that I was blinded by its availability and perceived rarity.

The RAV4 PHEV is pretty good when you floor the go pedal. I’ve had the car over two years and still puts a smile on my face.

I drive my car long enough to know how the car drives, I service it by myself too and I can see how the parts are wearing with the time, mileage and different fuels. I can sense any so slightly different noises and performance and efficiency differences after each fill up with petrol from various petrol stations or differential types of petrol e5 e10. Anyone else who has developed the same experience with his own car will find the difference same as me and it will have his own petrol preference, which type and from where to buy because no two petrol stations sell the exact same fuels even if they are under one name, and petrol comes from the same factory. No arguing here, no point really as many will never understand or sense those differences we are talking about and all that matters for them is to buy the cheapest possible fuels. Another matter are the car additives. Some believe that these are snake oils, I can tell you that if you use quality ones, correctly they work indeed, and if they don’t means you either didn’t dose it correctly or there was no need of using any of them to begin with. For the e10 in your car tank and moisture I can also tell you that thete is no problem at as long as the fuel tank is placed and closed no moisture will accumulate inside and the only way water gets in is when filling up mixed with fuel plus other contaminants. And this is where the things can get nasty and we can have bad experiences with fuels and what exactly make fuels and petrol stations so different in between.

I am using the StopLock Pro (non elite) and I find that it fits fine. Others have tried it and found that they fouled the horn press so bought the Elite. The only difference between the two is the amount of bend in the shaft. The Elite has more so will accommodate a larger centre boss. Personally, I found it to be too big. The best advice would be to find a place that sell both and try them to see which you prefer. I did this in Halfords.

It wouldn't surprise me if that was the case. When I got my Gen.3 I remember the first roundabout near the dealer - the car just did not want to move. Of course, I adapted my driving immediately (and didn't want to push it hard anyway), but it was very obviously slower than the car I took for a test drive. I've got some milage to do in the next couple of weeks, so I'm probably going to be pushing 3k by the time I'm done. It's already quite easy to get a computer reported 75 MPG average. This tank is looking like I'll get 440 miles out of it, but I've been doing some shorter town driving which doesn't help. As before, she definitely prefers longer journeys unless you just get the right combination of road and SoC. By town driving, I mean max. 3 miles one-way with lots of stop/go.

Wonderful! More options! I like options... (and more particularly, I am in love with HUDs 😉)

I installed Zimmermann discs and pads all around on my Mk1. Nice bite, very good braking. Bought it on that big german online store. Not expensive.

I admire your enthusiasm, and understand that for some people the "doing of it" tuning can give a lot of pleasure, maybe more than the end result. But as others have pointed out, there is a lot to consider and take into account. The cost of doing it. The time off road while it is done,may take ages to get right if ever. The huge loss of value of the car , usually people who modify want it to be to their choices, not someone else's ,that's if such a car was sellable at all. I know you said" Before I get replies like "You should have bought a different car" but maybe that's not the worst idea, you could get best price for your car as is+the savings on cost of modification+the huge depreciation saved,as others have said that adds up to plenty to buy a pretty special and powerful car,all with no effort and waiting around. To give my own example, I had a lexus is200 and it was 150bhp , I wanted more power so looked into how and cost. The best option was to sell it and buy a lexus is300 at 200bhp,at the time that would have been around £500 difference, like for like. In the end it turned out even better to keep what I had and knew well. But good luck whatever you decide to do 😃.

Will it work though? Sounds like it's pretty deep inside a metal box, which can't be great for radio transmission and reception.