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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/12/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Specification bulletins were issued to dealers last week, order books open December, demonstrators into dealers late Jan early Feb and customer deliveries late Feb
  2. 2 points
    I would never buy anything else apart from Lexus which are also top notch. Had a vw never again, Toyota will always be open and honest if they have a fault and recall and fix free of charge unlike VW who cover things up, Vauxhall know they have probs but do nothing, bmw as well and you have to pay to sort yourself ! we all have different opinions.
  3. 2 points
    If this is your only fault on a seven year old car, it isn't doing too badly.
  4. 1 point
    My mistake - Avensis T25 2007 D4D diesel 93KW - and i dont think that there was anithing on the mont ,it looked like this but the original had bigger hole and "stronger " rubber
  5. 1 point
    It would good to get a handbook for any Toyota that is in 'proper' English! Interesting comment on the camera - I haven't noticed anything untoward (or different from previous cars) - other than it gets dirty quickly 😄 As to whether it can read number plates! I don't know - but I'll give it a go next time - though to be honest as long as it warns me visually that I'm not about to hit something the precision of the vision aspects are less important... Perhaps the PHV is an expensive layout in the first instance and it's another cost-cutter, just like the cabin pre-heat (they forgot?)
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Toyota Owners Club has no association with Toyota. Toyota do not visit the club. Really the above post has been wasted, as it won't be seen by Toyota who are the organisation you need to be speaking to.
  8. 1 point
    First generation - Freetronic and, from 2003, Multi Mode Transmission (MMT) Second generation - Multi Mode Transmission Third generation to date - Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) and e-CVT (hybrids). Moved to the Yaris club.
  9. 1 point
    Another day another video 😄
  10. 1 point
    Hi konrad, Thank you for the information above and I certainly was unaware of these models as I did not do further research as I am usually do. Yes your right the VVTI is a better spec and uprated engine and will decide on the future of this car. My aim is to get some idea from my mechanic on what to do and if it looks to be an expensive fix then I will most definately look at getting a T-spirit. I must admit that I do not check my engine levels and now that you have mentioned it I will look at this during my lunch hour. I cannot tell if th EML is luminated on start-up. i will also check the EML lights up or not and if it does not then will get my mechanic to check this when he puts it on diagnostic if it will show up with anything.
  11. 1 point
    Some cheap Chinese turbos are ok but others are awfull - problem is that you won’t always know until premature failure. Low cost reconditioned units will often be a new rotating cartridge bolted into the old casing - can be dubious especially if the origin of the cartridge is unknown. You won’t go wrong with Turbotechnics, and Turboactive, in Teesside, are also excellent with a good warranty. If in any doubt, fit a new oil feed line when fitting a new turbo. Turbotechnics can supply a suitable stainless steel braided flexible with the correct end connections.
  12. 1 point
    Hi, Perhaps some of my recent experiences may help. Getting the hoses off the bulkhead connectors was actually quiet easy, a twist was all they needed. Suppose you could use wd40 but it might attack the rubber if you do not clean it all off with a spirit based cleaner like IPA. Think you then need to see if it is actually blocked or not, if it is simple forwards and reverse flushing may work... As for the reservoir, for years mine always dropped slightly every few months, say about 20mm, when I did a 100k coolant change I replaced the thermostat as a matter of course. After moving the alternator out of the way you could see some traces of dried coolant around the housing so I though that was it, but after some months it still dropped a bit. Could not see any other signs of leaks, checking partic around the water pump etc, but when moving the main radiator out of the way to replace a leaking a/c condenser I could see a leak right down at the front, when that was replaced its stayed slap on the mark all this year. Think what is important that you fully flush all traces of whatever old coolant is in the engine /radiator and if you use concentrate antifreeze its important to use distilled or RO/DI water as Hard water will just help clog things up again. Just £1 a 2lt bottle from big supermarkets. I use Commas antifreeze, see their site product checker for your exact model; probably G30 like mine ? Don't know about your 1.8 as its not on all models, but on my 1.6 there is a tap at the back of the engine quiet well hidden just above the exhaust pipe thats there to drain off the engine block as simply removing the rad hoses may not drain it all out. Found it with a torch and mirror but was very wary of turning the tap as though if it was seized I might break the whole tap off the block and then would be up the creek ! - gave it plenty of Plus Gas overnight and it then moved ok. If your does not have one, then fill with water , run to warm up and drain a good few times, using DI water for the last flush, so any water left in is not Hard water. hth
  13. 1 point
    Toyota offer refurb Turbo's on an exchange basis and they are cheaper than Eurocarparts, Turbotechnics are reputable https://www.turbotechnics.com/ before Toyota started their own recon programme the Toyota extended warranty company used Turbotechnics to diagnose and replace Turbos .
  14. 1 point
    Have you made sure you turn up to full volume on the iphone? When I play mine its always turned up to full volume then I adjust with the volume on the car radio.
  15. 1 point
    The 1.2T became the only option to the hybrid from December 2017 - prior to this the 1.33 petrol, 1.4 and 1.6 diesels were also alternatives.
  16. 1 point
    Nothing adverse for the 1.2T in the Good/Bad section of the Honest John Auris review.
  17. 1 point
    I changed today to the Cross Climates. They do seem quieter and the steering feels sharper. Too soon to say if mpg will be adversely affected. Both the Toyo and the Michelin are 195/65 R15 91H. I feel we may be getting into the 17 vs 15 discussion again. The circumference of the tyres is the same it is just the depth/ width of the tyre that changes. From experience over 12 years and 4 hybrids I can assure you that tyres and tyre pressures make a huge difference to mpg. Even the brochure for the Gen 4 says Urban mpg 97.4 for 15 vs 85.6 for 17. My averages have never got near either of these but I regularly see 80+ on 20 mile trips. Summer was 62.7 winter maybe 61 but often trips are less than 5 miles and the long trips fast motorway, neither of which are ideal. I have never known what the correct pressure should be as the handbook is ambiguous It says 32 psi with a full spare and 36psi front 35 rear without. I have a spacesaver but thats not quoted.. I know that after a service my pressures were always down. and I put up to the label inside the door pressures again. 2.5 /2.4. maybe that is why I was not happy on the Toyo . In the past when I changed from the OEM tyre type I always consulted the manufacturer of the tyre for pressures and invariably found they were not the same as the manufacturer of the vehicle. Michelin say go by the label in the door. By the same token in the past I always went 4 psi over or the fast setting for better mpg and less wear (Pre Toyota). A friend just swapped his Rav diesel for a Rav Hybrid and was moaning about the fuel consumption. When I went out to look at it he had huge Black wheels with very low profile tyres. He was completely unaware of the affect wheel size had on mpg.. Style over substance.
  18. 1 point
    Do what I did - get a cheap (even secondhand) Android phone and keep it in the car doubling up as an emergency phone.
  19. 1 point
    If the Auris stereo has a CD changer port at the rear of the unit, the a AUX/SD/USB adapter or with optional Bluetooth built in, can be added. This will greatly enhance your in car multimedia and help try and keep you legal by using the steering controls, not touching any hand held device: - The adapters shown fit and work with most Toyota's with 6+6 CD changer sockets. Also see my how to:- A bit late but may be useful to other owners.
  20. 1 point
    One thing always worth doing to tighten up the T Sport is to put polyurethane replacements in everywhere for rubber ones. Quick and easy job, but makes a BIG difference to the handling by stiffening it up.
  21. 1 point
    Taken from Toyota GB's own sales figures and are for total UK sales with no distinction between corporate or private customers.
  22. 1 point
    Well, Another mod took place today. Well, Fitted today, it's taken some time in the planning and build of it. In my previous cars I've always enjoyed changing the radio unit to something a bit better, Keep up with technology, better sound quality, more options to play with etc. but the standard, built in CD player in the iQ always felt a bit basic to me. It's very built in though so what can you do I hear you cry, Well, Read on..... I purchased another radio unit from an accident damaged iQ on ebay for £40. It came complete in the plastic housing with the radio unit still fitted to it. An interesting thing to note is the radio behind the plastic housing is a standard Din size radio so I bought myself a Pioneer CD, DAB, unit and fitted it to the same brackets as the existing unit, Even the screw holes lined up. I then cut the plastic housing and made a new plastic fascia surrounding the radio and fibre glassed it all into place. After a few coats of filler and lots of sanding it was painted a similar grey to the old unit and fitted into place. It seems to work fine except I can't find anything on DAB at the minute? I got a steering wheel control adapter too so they still work and it sounds much better than the old unit. I have more photos and have the part numbers of cables, adapters etc. if anyone else fancies having a go. Craig.
  23. 1 point
    I'm really pleased for everyone. Since my last post I was going to suggest an in-situ clean as described. If the matrix leaks then you would have had the same effort as me but you had everything to gain for a lot less hassle. A tip I would suggest is to get some proper 5/8" coolant hose to connect temporarily to the matrix as it's so cheap. I've been reading about different types of anti-freeze. There is a difference between the Toyota red and VW or GM pink and they should not be mixed either like the blue. I'll find the links again as soon as I can in case anyone is interested. This may have been the cause. Here's one: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa052601a.htm Part quote: (highlights mine) "In many US and Japanese antifreeze formulas phosphate is added as a corrosion inhibitor. European vehicle manufacturers, however, recommend against the use of phosphate containing antifreeze. The following will examine the different positions on this issue to help judge the pros and cons on phosphate inhibitors. In the US market, a phosphate inhibitor is included in many formulas to provide several important functions that help reduce automotive cooling system damage. The benefits provided by the phosphate include: •Protect aluminum engine components by reducing cavitation corrosion during high speed driving. •Provide for corrosion protection to ferrous metals. •Act as a buffer to keep the antifreeze mixture alkaline. This prevents acid build-up that will damage or destroy metal engine parts. European manufacturers feel that these benefits are achievable with inhibitors other than phosphate. Their main concerns with phosphate containing products are the potential for solids dropout when mixed with hard water. Solids can collect on cooling system walls forming what is known as scale. This concern comes from the fact that European water is much harder than water in the US. Because phosphate "softens" water by forming solids of calcium or magnesium salts that can dropout of solution, there is potential for cooling system blockage. The phosphate level in most US and Japanese antifreeze formulas do not generate significant solids. Furthermore modern antifreeze formulations are designed to minimize the formation of scale. The small amount of solids formed presents no problem for cooling systems or to water pump seals."
  24. 1 point
    Happy to re-cap the steps I’ve taken for anyone to try. A few points to keep in mind – I’d already recently changed the coolant in the car, so I didn’t want to loose too much coolant. If you’re having problems with your heating it would seem to make sense to also first change your coolant. I should also add an “at your own risk” disclaimer, I obviously can’t be responsible for anything that happens as a result of anyone trying this (unless it’s just a lot of heat inside your car! ) – you’re going to be dealing with heat, bleach and other potentially dangerous stuff so make sure you’re prepared and careful! Equipment needed: a.) A hose pipe connected to running water b.) Additional pieces of hose pipe (or similar): * 1 short (~120cm or so should do) * 1 longer (~1.5m or so will be plenty) c.) A funnel (this needs to be able to connect to one end of the short piece of hose pipe) d.) A measuring jug e.) Your kettle with near boiling water to hand f.) A bucket g.) Scissors/knife (for cutting hose pipe) h.) Pliers i.) Mr Muscle Sink & Plughole Unblocker j.) Buster Kitchen Plug Hole & Sink Treatment k.) Engine coolant/water l.) Protective Gloves Hose Pipe Preparation: One of the most annoying things I found when trying to do the flush was that a standard hose pipe is just too small to get around the connecting pipes to the matrix and awkward to fit inside the pipes. If you have a slightly larger pipe it would be an advantage, otherwise I recommend trying to stretch the hose pipe ends slightly. One way to achieve this can be to sit the end in some hot water for a minute and then push something like the end of your funnel into it which, with its wedge shape, should help to stretch the rubber. Leave it in place for a while to really stretch it out. Do this to the hose pipe end as well as one end on each of the additional pieces of hose pipe listed above. Steps to Flush Matrix: 1.) Take the car for a drive to get the engine warmed up, turn the heater on and leave it on when you stop the engine. With the engine still warm I carefully released the pressure on the system by slowly undoing the radiator cap. I did this by wrapping a towel around it and wearing gloves – don’t get burnt! 2.) With the pressure released I then needed to disconnect the two connections that run into the cabin (if I’m right this is actually the connections directly to the matrix itself) – you’ll need your pliers. These photos should help confirm where I’m talking about if you’re not sure Try and hook then upwards out of the way, e.g. so no coolant will flow out of them. When disconnecting them you may still lose a small amount of coolant. 3.) With those connections off and safely up and out of the way connect your hose pipe (with the water mains) to one of the connections. Make sure it’s a snug fit around the pipe. If you’re struggling to get the hose pipe on, re-read the preparation section – you’re going to need to stretch it out a bit or find an alternative. 4.) Connect the longer piece of hose pipe to the other connection and run this down into your bucket. 5.) Start running your hose gently to ensure you have a good flow, if water isn’t shooting our everywhere turn the hose up to full power. Repeat this step for ~ 3 buckets worth. If you’re seeing a lot of debris come out repeat until clear water runs. 6.) Switch the connections around to the opposite pipes and repeat steps 3 – 5. 7.) Disconnect the hose pipe end with the water flow and connect your shorter piece of hose pipe. Ensure that this is a clean pipe as you’re going to need to blow down it to force any remaining water out of the matrix and into your bucket. E.g. after this step there should be no liquid left in the matrix. 8.) Disconnect the long hose pipe so that one side of the matrix has nothing connected to it. Now attach the funnel to the end of the short piece of hose pipe that you have just blown into in step 7. 9.) We now want to fill the matrix with Mr Muscle! Holding the funnel high to let gravity do it’s bit to help slowly pour the Mr Muscle liquid into it. Keep your eye on the end of the matrix that has no pipe attached; you want to see a small amount of Mr Muscle get to the end here as you’ll then know you’ve filled the matrix. I used a 500ml bottle and found this to be just enough to fill the matrix. During the fill I had to add a very small amount of near boiling water from the kettle to encourage it through the matrix. 10.) You can now take a break! Leave the Mr Muscle solution in the matrix for 30mins. 11.) Re-attach the long piece of hose that you have running into your bucket onto the free connection to the matrix and give the Mr Muscle an initial flush through with some near boiling water - this is where the kettle comes in! Pour it slowly into the funnel which should still be attached. You may want to repeat this a couple of times. 12.) Disconnect the short piece of hose that you had attached with the funnel. You then want to repeat steps 3 to 7 to completely flush the system and empty the matrix. 13.) Optional Step – I repeated the steps above using Buster Kitchen Plug Hole & Sink Treatment. As I didn’t test the car in-between using the Mr Muscle and this I can’t say for sure which one solved the problem, or if it was a combination of both. As this is a powder type solution I mixed it up with some near boiling water in a measuring jug and poured it in once more via the funnel. 14.) With the matrix empty reconnect the engine hoses that you disconnected in point 2, again, using your pliers. 15.) Put the radiator cap back on. Check you’ve not missed anything else – everything should be reconnected. 16.) Take the car for a short spin (enough to get up to operating temp) – hopefully by that point you’ll feel some heat! 17.) Once the engine has cooled check your coolant levels in your radiator and overflow tank, you may need to top them up to replace the coolant lost from the matrix during the flush. I hope this is of some help, I'd be interested in the results anyone else gets from it. Also, if it's unclear at all please let me know.
  25. 1 point
    10 mins doesn't seem very long to me, but afterwards I would drain it via the bottom hose and put in de-ionised water 2 or 3 times to flush the solution out and do further cleaning. If you decide to drain the block, there's no point unless you remember to also do the matrix. Several water flushes will clear it just as effectively and is easier. When the de-ionised water is drained for the final time, fill the system with pure anti freeze the amount being half of the cooling system capacity in the handbook (can't remember what this is - sorry). Top up with water and you know you have the correct ratio mix in the system without getting the water out of the block.

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