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  1. 6 points
    The hybrid engineering is rock solid. You will find it a very relaxing car to drive. I had, and now the wife has it, a 2010 Auris Hybrid. The main components will be the same in a newer Auris. You will get better mpg in the summer then the winter, maybe 7-10 mpg less in the winter. This is because the computer will keep the engine running or maintain its warmth, plus you have cab heater, demister, heated rear window non more in the winter. Wife’s Auris does about 62mpg summer, 54 winter. A hybrid is a compromise, it has the benefit you don’t have to worry about plug in like you do with all electric. Electric cars have no engine but heavy battery. Hybrid has a heavy engine, plus a big battery not weighing as much as a full electric, but cannot go as far as a big battery electric only vehicle. Hence you heard a Auris hybrid will not do a great distance on battery only. And yes, around 21mph the engine kicks in, but just think that as long as you have enough charge in the hybrid battery you can go a longish way under 21mph ie town driving, queues etc. What you do find that you can be travelling at up to say 55Mph and with the right conditions, be travelling on hybrid battery power. Personally I don’t find high speed Mway driving (national speed limits) very conducive to good mpg, but it’s relative. I would think 55 maybe a bit more mpg. I don’t use cruise control on a Mway, I can ease more mpg by me controlling the right foot. Easy relaxed driving...... yes. The CVT gearbox cant really be compared to any other auto box, and it is well engineered. Driving the Auris hybrid is easy as a computer does all the thinking re hybrid battery/engine use, and you can barely feel the change between engine and battery drive and back again. Best move I did, and until battery cars can go longer before charges, and there are more charging stations available, hybrid is the way to go IMO.
  2. 5 points
    Just wanted to share some of my experiences with the Corolla 2.0 Touring Sports hybrid. Before buying it on 1 October 2019 I have been driving a Prius 2004 for the last 10 years, ditching it at 300.000 km (186.000 miles). So I am used to drive a Toyota hybrid – yet the 2.0 TS is a quite different experience. Naturally, the acceleration is better, but in a way, it is the overall driving properties that make the biggest difference. It feels much more sharp, stable and firm, both in curves and in heavy wind. These driving properties makes it so much more engaging to drive. Plus, it is well noise insulated, and the nasty scream from the CVT when pushed is much less noticeable in this car than other Toyota hybrids I have tried. Milage: I have logged all my gas consumption – the milage can be seen on this graph (calculated, not read from the slightly untrustworthy display): [Milage calculated for every tank full of gasoline] It should be noted that summer wheels are 17 inch and the winter tires are Continental wintercontact TS860 205/55/16. They have been on the car since km. 7300. The weather since then has been more or less non stop rain, windy and temperatures around 4-10 degr. C. I estimate that minimum 80 % of the km’s driven has been on motorways. In Denmark, where I live, the motorway speed limit is 130 km/h (81 mph) as default but quite often reduced to 110 km/h (68 mph). Getting acceptable km/l (mpg) can be a bit tricky in this car, compared to the old Prius. The mpg in the 2.0 TS is so much more sensitive to pushing the speeder too hard - and that can be a bit tempting in this car, I must confess. However, doing so punishes you immediately. In the Prius, it made a difference, naturally, but much less so. If I want to achieve a mpg (UK) approaching 60 on motorways in winter, I really need to drive slowly (around 90 km/h (56 mph)) and maybe utilize the draft from a truck in front of me (I never do the pulse and glide stuff and am not a fanatic but do like to see high mpg figures. I turn off the AC whenever possible but the heater is running all the time. Low beam is on almost all the time, as is the radio and the GPS). The total average at this point is 17,8km/l (50.3 mpg). I just calculated the mpg for the old Prius in the same time span (also with 16 inch winter wheels) in 2018-19, and is was 17,5 km/l (49.4 mpg) – i.e. basically identical. Max speed: The 2.0 TS has a listed top speed at 180 km/h (111 mph). Unless you live in Germany, testing this can (legally) only be done on a racing track. Or by traveling to Germany - which is what I did (I was on holyday there). The conclusion is that 1) the acceleration – also at the high end of the scale – is really good. It feels almost linear, but I haven’t measured anything. And 2) Yes, the top speed is of course 180 km/h (111 mph), in case you wondered. Even at that speed, the car performs excellent. The old Prius quite frankly felt wobbly and unsafe at its max speed of 170 km/h (106 mph), and the acceleration in the upper end of the scale was really slow. The tachometer in the TS never seems to move into the red area no matter what you do, so I guess it is limited to 6000 rpm as its max. The engine temperature never changed from the standard position just below middle, but then again it was winter and around 4-8 degrees C. By the way, in Germany, I ended up with 15 km/l (42 mpg) as an average but at very high speed, it seemed to be doing more like 23 mpg or so. First service check I just had it done, no remarks except new windshield wiper blades. Price in Denmark 520 euro; what a bargain (sigh). I had them turn off the warning sound for safety belts, as it occasionally goes off if I have luggage on the seats. They claimed that there was no software updates available in Denmark (except the map data). Wonder if that is true… Do I like the car? Yes, very much so. Until now, only disappointment has been a slightly lower mpg than I hoped to achieve, but I am still learning to optimize it, and it should also increase a little in the summer. I considered buying e.g. the Leon estate 1,5 TSi 150 ST DSG, but it was almost the same price and significant lower mpg. And Toyota Corolla spells reliability and durability, keeping my fingers crossed. Have not regretted it for a second so far.
  3. 4 points
    I have decided .. Goodyear Vector 4seasons Gen2 are going to be my next tyres. I think they are worth a blast based on the comments. Thanks everyone 🙂
  4. 4 points
    On my main car I have Nokian all-season tyres and can recommend them. On my "occasional" cars, which do a low mileage, I keep winter tyres on all year round. I would never go back to having summer tyres on any car in the winter - too much of a risk, too many slippery episodes.
  5. 2 points
    Hi Martin, From the Goodyear website and the info on the Goodyear Vector 4 seasons, I would say that the compound is a "Half way house" between that of the summer and winter tyres. That might sound like a compromise but when you add in the unique "Whale tail" tread pattern and the smoother ride in dry conditions, then that would still be my choice for Stuart. If I lived in Scandinavia, Germany, or the Alps then I would go for Winter tyres every year without question but in the UK we get a few days of snow/ice and then we go back to the dreary wet conditions that we are all used to. A couple of years ago we had the exception with the "Beast from the East" but normally our weather is wet rather than icy and having driven a car on winter tyres in the dry (OK, things might have changed as that was a few years ago) I can say that it's not a lot of fun. As I said earlier, with our climate in the UK, the all season tyre could be the answer for Stuart (At the end of the day, it is his decision, not mine) but I like to read reviews and do a bit of homework before I buy something, as AygoStu is doing and that leads me away from the total winter tyre. David ( @fordulike ) lives in the North East and if the Goodyears are good enough for him with the conditions up there, then that's good enough for me. It's interesting to hear different views though, isn't it?.....As for you, Stuart, there used to be an American comedy on TV called "Soap", at the beginning of every episode the did a recap of what had previously happened and ended with the tag-line: "Confused? You will be" I bet you feel exactly the same, Matey! Anyway, all the best and good luck.....I'm sure that you'll make the right decision in the end.
  6. 1 point
    Hi All, Had my Corolla TS Excel since Nov 2018, can't fault it. After running a VW Tiguan TDI 4motion the MPG is quite refreshing, though the build quality lacks the German touch it makes up for it elsewhere, well..... everywhere apart from the horn. Not that I want you all to think I'm a toot tooter at all times, however there are times when you toot to warn others of your presence, and times when folk cut you up.. problem is the horn doesn't match the car, my old classic mini had a meatier horn than the Corolla. It can be pretty embarrassing, this is a 180bhp hybrid FFS, not Noddy's car. Anyone know where the horn is? Plan for good weather is to replace it. Cheers, David.
  7. 1 point
    Hi Everyone, When shopping around for your car insurance, why not check out our Toyota Owners Club Insurance scheme? It's run in partnership with Adrian Flux and offers Toyota Owners Club members up to 15% discount on their policy - just for being a member! As if that's not enough, they will also insure modified cars as well as standard and classics. They know what you're talking about too - unlike some other insurers! So why not give them a try? Not only are you helping to support your club but you could save yourself some money too! :D To get a quote simply FREEPHONE 0800 5876 317 To find out more about Toyota Owners Club Insurance visit: Toyota Owners Club Insurance Thanks
  8. 1 point
    Have just read an article about a recall on the toyota corolla but cant work out if it's just the USA market or EU countries as well. Here is the article if you haven't seen it https://news.sky.com/story/toyota-and-honda-recall-six-million-vehicles-due-to-airbag-glitches-11914698 I have done a check here and my uk vehicle isn't listed so must be usa only https://www.toyota.co.uk/owners/vehicle-information/recall-checker?ds_rl=1253313&gclid=CjwKCAiA35rxBRAWEiwADqB37wz_bM4YBI7soMu6yeSLZayFG7Alk8egmWJ3XeAhUk0P0XdWvm18-BoCUSIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  9. 1 point
    REF..... code P264A - 'A' Rocker Arm Actuator Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1 I have a Toyota auris tr valvematic 2011 plate 64K on the clock… with the above fault code....... Does NOT show up all the time, it’s very intermediate however it does seem to be more active once the engine is up and running and hot (normal running temp) I'd really appreciate ANY advice ANYONE could tell me to point me in the right direction to fix this poxy problem. I’ve done huge amount of homework on this issue sadly NO WHERE can i find a definitive explanation what the hell a * rocker arm actuator * is….. Or images of the part that could be a fault, let alone the !Removed! location of it on the engine. I’ve checked many things the car did have an oil change over 90 days ago ( with the correct oil ) However It making me think it’s something to do with the Oil its self after reading some sites…. Over filled / under filled / wrong oil ? I have removed 1L of oil so the car has now…… half a filled sump….. On the dip stick. I have remove both Camshaft oil timing controls and cleaned them (they won’t dirty anyway) I am now TOTALLY at a loss …….What the hell is making the car do this…. let alone what a * rocker arm actuator * is….. Or its location of it on the engine so I could change it. HELP !!!!!! 🙄😂😂
  10. 1 point
    Yeah, well, my driving pattern has changed lately (job & family reasons), so it was nice to get a new car! I don't know if there is a single point where mpg goes crazy, but I think that above 120 km/h (75 mph) or so it gets a bit thirsty... But then again, I guess that because of wind resistance etc., this is what you see in all cars. My dad-in-law got a 2.0 turbo diesel Volvo estate; he has begun to never exceed 110 km/h (68 mph) on his (very long) motorway rides because going above that costs a lot of extra money.
  11. 1 point
    I know that feeling, turn your back for 30 seconds and your tools will be walking down the road - In my teens i would think nothing about pulling an engine/gear box in a afternoon these days its someone else's job
  12. 1 point
    That’s an interesting reed, at the the end if you race both cars they will be very similar results, and the difference in acceleration may well been only a feeling. Back in the days early 2000 there were discussions about VAG cars between turbo diesel and turbo petrol, as some said that the diesels are faster on acceleration, perhaps was just a wrong feel from the low end torque. I agreed though, in hybrids the punch from turbo is missing obviously, but if you pay attention to the speedo you can see that speed builds up quickly, and yes traction battery charge will impact the acceleration because the car uses both petrol and electric power together. You can empty the battery on purpose and try to accelerate uphill, then you feel like driving a fully loaded with passengers Kia Picanto 1.1 automatic with aircon on. , it’s just not going 👌😊👍
  13. 1 point
    More than likely an error, its all the same servers, or you have a rare 1 of 1 Lexus Corolla
  14. 1 point
    2009 model will either be the last of the Gen2 or an early Gen3. Gen2 still has a good reputation but I think it is a 1500cc engine, Gen3 are 1800 engines (and still are). I had a 59 plate Gen3, got it with 105 k miles and sold it with 110k miles, simply to get a Gen4 as I loved the Prius, now have 66 plate Gen4. The Hyndrid mechanics are rock solid, obviously well engineered from day 1, Priuswere introduced to UK in 1999, so been about a bit. My friend bought a 60 plate from a Toyota dealer. It burnt oil terribly, got it sorted under sale warranty, but not heard a lot of this problem. Other then that, not know of major problems. Did you know that the Auris has the same hybrid engineering the same as Gen3 Prius, exactly the same, but it’s shape will give less mpg. Auris generally is cheaper then an equivalent year Prius, so well worth you looking at an Auris, younger car for your money. Our first hybrid was a 60 plate Auris, I bought it, then gave to wife when I got the Gen3 Prius.
  15. 1 point
    Edit. going to confirm this information, so i have removed it If you want more security get a Thatcham 2-1 plip alarm that will add an extra immobiliser circuit, ultrasonics and tilt sensor you can also add a break glass sensor/microwave sensor
  16. 1 point
    Probably i has not been reset for a very long time. Try to reset it.
  17. 1 point
    I would be more concerned with the oil consumption. If it is burning oil that badly then the sensors are correct in reporting a fault. To me it sounds as if either the valve seals or piston rings are badly worn, but you NEED to get this checked out properly. After the oil problem is squared away then see if the fault clears.
  18. 1 point
    And I got Audio version 1100/1010 (don't remember the exact number) few days ago when I visited my dealer. It should be available in UK too.
  19. 1 point
    I read that winters come with more tread/ deeper groves. So I wonder if they last longer than say my continental eco contacts if I used them all year round.. then again like someone said, swapping them over at home in March is no biggy
  20. 1 point
    I believe the latest system software to be 1530 and maps to be 2019 v2
  21. 1 point
    I would never drive a car without winter/snow tyres on icy road. It is asking for trouble and it just needs one bad slide or braking issue to have a bad accident and loose life. Not worth it when all could have been prevented with proper winter tyres (not just all season or all weather tyres) that cost just a couple of hundred pounds. The winter tyres for Aygo are quite cheap because of the small wheel size and besides the winter tyres will spare the wear and tear on your summer tyres. Worth every penny and if you have some where to store them during summer you can change them by your self. It takes max one hour to change all 4 tyres in Aygo, the pleasure of having a small car. Yes I do have proper winter tyres for our Aygo and I change them myself. Remember the true winter tyres have a different rubber compound that is soft in winter and has a far better grip than the hard rubber of summer tyres. Besides the true winter tyres have sipes for even better grip, braking and acceleration in snow and ice. There are lots of videos in you tube testing cars with and without winter tyres.
  22. 1 point
    I will be interested in how the larger brakes work, and if it is a very simple switch, so please keep us posted MartinBrynildsen!
  23. 1 point
    These are front and back pictures of an Auris bonnet lock. I would expect a Corolla one to look quite similar. The area of the switch that you refer to is highlighted with the red arrow. If you could spray in that general area with you moisture repellent of choice (WD40 etc.), then that might do what you were wishing to do. The first red arrow is pointing at the connector of the switch, next to the switch. The wires to this switch seem to have been cut by the vehicle breaker. Close up the switch will look a little bit like this one, but without the three electrical connectors sticking out. You are probably aware that the ultrasonic portion of the alarm can be temporarily disabled via a button that is (likely) on the 'B' pillar? This is used for if you have to leave a dog or suchlike in the car. The function resets to operating normally on the next unlock/lock cycle. Toyota don't supply a complete paper owner's manual for some years now, but a full manual can be downloaded for free from the Toyota GB website. More alarm details might be in included in that. Did the dealer explain what the diagnostic was that they were going to do? HTH
  24. 1 point
    I agree with Bob regarding the amount of work to replace CD/radio with the nav unit. I thought about it, but when you see this following link, you will look for an easier option - As bob stated, the navigation will be piratically out of date. I use my phone via a Bluetooth/USB adapter, so can get voice directions and stream music, as well as take calls. The original Bluetooth only supports voice calls and depending on the phone, voice directions. Here are my posts on my upgrades - You can go my route or the android unit with suitable adapter cables suggested by Bob.
  25. 1 point
    imho the sat nav isnt worth the hassle due to its age you can get a nice aftermarket alpine or pioneer stereo for similar money with more up to date features (not sat nav) I don't think I have use a CD in-car for 10 plus years when you can get 10 albums on a 4gb USB stick
  26. 1 point
    I'm running four of those Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons Gen 2's that Agent Orange mentions. They are very good. Not tried in snow yet, but wet and dry, they provide good grip on both. The Continental ECOs I had on before were nasty in the wet 😯
  27. 1 point
    Ok, I’ve figured it out... just need to hold the voice command button to enable google assistant or Siri.
  28. 1 point
    The horn on our Auris is embarrassing, but a puny horn never gets mentioned by motoring journalists, and is rarely tried on your own test drive. So feeble horns sneak into production! Although fairly impractical as an installation on a new Corolla, I think this video highlights just what can be done if you are serious about upgrading the FS1E - style beeper. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnr6uGIV8no
  29. 1 point
    It won't fit in your tray, but Home Bargains usually have a telescopic wheel wrench and 1 reversible socket (1/2" square drive) for £4.99. I've not used that specific one, but as a tool in general they are excellent. I don't know what the socket sizes are that it covers, though.
  30. 1 point
    Whilst I wholeheartedly agree with you, I can't see that happening any time soon unless someone with a high profile takes up the cause, and shames the authorities for their obvious failure to deal with the situation, i.e. trap the thieving ( #nT$, and interrupt the chain that leads to a metal refinery somewhere. Perhaps you've seen, in just the last week or so, the papers have been running articles on the likelihood of a typical car criminal getting prosecuted. For breaking into, or theft of a car, nationally it is a 1 in 400 chance of being convicted and receiving a sentence, caution or community service. And that would not seem to be a dire enough, or important enough statistic to provoke a response from anyone in authority. Are they thinking it will sort itself out? Or maybe it's not considered a problem 'because your insurance will cover it.'? In the one police arrest that I've seen reported regarding car cats., the culprit's vehicle was only stopped because they were speeding. Their boot full of trolley jacks, power saws, false number plates and catalysts was just a lucky find by the police, if I understood the situation correctly.
  31. 1 point
    Still happening - check the comments on the Toyota blog site: https://blog.toyota.co.uk/catalytic-converter-theft-how-to-protect-your-car Many people wouldn't have another Toyota hybrid because of the issue and their response:(
  32. 1 point
    You have to brake and accelerate like a granny to satisfy MyT. No good in the real world IMO.
  33. 1 point
    hi folks, interesting I also had hub bearing wich did not want to be removed, I gave it a good spray with w.d.40 next day slide hammer removed it with ease.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Hi All I'm a newbie to this forum but have a new Camry Excel - I had been looking for a new car and had considered a new RAV4, a Lexus ES and a Camry - our Lexus and Toyota dealers are about 200 yards apart so could compare the ES and Camry very easily - to my mind there was little difference between the two apart from a £10K price tag. So I have had it for around 10 days now and done about 1000 miles in it and I’m really pleased with it - mpg is averaging 48 tank to tank, and it’s a really nice drive. OK it’s no sports car but it’s plenty quick enough and really puts you back in your seat when you accelerate and only starts to understeer at the extreme and will spin it’s wheels on lock due to the electric motor torque. The fit and finish are fantastic- OK there are some hard plastics but otherwise it’s as good as most and better than many for the price with excellent paint finish. The infotainment is not as poor as most reviewers pan it for - it links well with my iPhone and it’s a good sounding system and the DAB drops out far less than most other cars I’ve had. I would recommend it to anyone....
  36. 1 point
    Sorry, not Auris feedback but the lights on the Corolla are far better than they were on my previous BMW. Though its LED vs Halogen, I used to be in fear of dark driving before but now the Corolla gives me great visibility at night!
  37. 1 point
    Totally agree. I find using the fog lights on unlit country lanes helps a fair bit.
  38. 1 point
    I had my firmware upgraded to version 1530 (from 1520) today. But the dealer didn't know anything about it and it took a reference to this thread before his "master technician" went on-line to download the appropriate version. Only 10 minutes to install but over half an hour for them to search through their system to find and download it. I had an interesting chat with the salesman who sold me the car - he confirmed that the Apple CarPlay retrofit will cost £50 if included with a service or £120 without - available May 2020. And he also said that Corolla hybrids are in such great demand that he will be on the phone half way through the PCP deal to make me an offer. But then how long to get another I wonder?
  39. 1 point
    It's a quality website, that one. Where 'rubbish and confusing' is a description of quality :)
  40. 1 point
    Your answer is correct.I experienced error U011B-Lost communication with Rocker arm control module A.This is after doing a reverse polarity during jump-starting.I fixed the broken fuses and bought a used valvematic controller for Ksh12,000($120).It cleared the error and the car is all good now.Before buying anything,do proper troubleshooting to ascertain where the issue is
  41. 1 point
    Long delivery times - I read recently that with the growth in demand for electric/hybrid vehicles the demand for metals that go into the batteries is outstripping supply. Some sources (countries) of these metals are hiking prices a lot. That could cause delays in vehicle supplies. The only car Toyota produces in the UK, (AFAIK) is the Corolla. Engines made in Deeside, North Wales, and assembly at Burnaston, Derbyshire.
  42. 1 point
    Difficulty - Medium Time - The are 2 stages, one to adjust the brakes themselves and the other to adjust the cable. Cable 10 minutes Including brakes 1 hour. Tools - Jack and wheel brace, flat blade screwdriver, phillips No2 screwdriver, 10mm socket and suitable driver. Trim tool if available. 2 X 10mm spanners. Introduction The handbrake on all 4.2 RAVs is of the "drum in hat/exclusive" type. This consists of a small diameter drum brake which is positioned in the boss of the rear brake disc. Although a handbrake could be incorporated into the disc brake, these are becoming less popular because they rely entirely upon clamping force which requires high actuation force and are exposed to contamination if the vehicle should be used off road. Although the parking brake is efficient, it should be remembered that it is solely a static brake and should never be used dynamically because it is at a huge mecanical disadvantage - a tiny brake inside a large wheel. Even applying it just as the wheels are coming to a stand will eventually cause excessive wear of the components. As it is a static brake the linings should last indefinitely and the brake requires little maintenance. Once adjusted after the linings have bedded to the drum it should normally not be required again for the life of the vehicle. Occasionally the drum brakes may become inefficient due to lack of use, a build up of contaminants or incorrect use. If the linings have become wet (when the vehicle is waded to the depth of 300 - 500mm) the brake will be submerged and can be dried by applying the handbrake with a force of 10kgs for a distance not exceeding 400m at 30mph. If the linings have been replaced they can be bedded by using the same procedure but repeating the process after a cooling period of 1 minute a number of times as required. In this case the brake should be re-adjusted when completed. Once the brakes have been adjusted for the first time, any subsequent adjustment required is likely to be as a result of cable stretch. If you have no reason to suspect the brakes need further adjustment (you haven't renewed the linings etc) then it is acceptable to adjust the cable only. The cost for having the handbrake adjusted can vary. I have heard reports ranging from £25 - £65 which I presume depends on whether the foundation drum brakes have been adjusted or only the cable. Procedure To adjust the foundation parking brake shoes; Working on level ground safely chock the front wheels and release the hand brake. Observing all the usual precautions, jack up and remove one rear wheel. Ideally the vehicle should be jacked and supported on axle stands but if the supplied vehicle jack is used under no circumstances place any part of your body under the vehicle. As the disc is not fixed to the hub it is necessary to secure it by taking two of the wheel nuts and running them up to the disc. The hand brake adjuster is accessible through a rubber bung in the disc. Using a screwdriver, prize out the bung and rotate the disc (it will be stiff as you have to turn the transmission) until the toothed adjuster is visible - it will be somewhere near the bottom ; Use the screwdriver to engage the teeth of the adjuster; To adjust the brake you need to turn the adjuster as shown to expand the shoes; Turn the adjuster until it is no longer possible to move the disc then turn it backwards until the disc is just free. It is OK to hear it rubbing but it should not be tight. Turn the disc a full revolution to make sure there are no tight spots. When complete refit the rubber bung and the roadwheel. Go around and repeat the process at the other wheel but when finished do not lower the wheel to the ground. To adjust the hand brake cable; Go inside the car and use a trim tool or screwdriver to prize the back of the gear stick gaiter upward; The front of the gaiter is hooked under the lower facia so just pull it back to disengage and lift it up over the gearstick but do not try to remove it. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws from the front of the centre console; Fold down the back of the console and remove the cup holders to reveal the 2 fixing bolts. Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the bolts then lift off the console. Note - it will be necessary to reach under and unplug the wire from the cigar lighter. Now with the console removed the handbrake and cable is very easy to see; Use the 2 X 10mm spanners to unlock the adjusting nut. Hold the bottom nut still and undo the top nut anti clockwise. This photo is from a 4.3 but it is the same; Now turn the bottom nut clockwise to tension the cable. The specification calls for 7 - 9 clicks with a pulling force of 20kgs (44 lbs) - thats a heavy pull! The main thing is not to over adjust it so you should still feel some free play at the bottom of the lever travel. Keep adjusting and testing little by little. If you start at the bottom and pull, you should not feel any resistance until about the third click. As a check go back to the jacked up wheel and check that it turns freely. Replace all of the trim in the reverse order remembering to re-connect that cigar lighter. Lower the remaining wheel and don't forget to finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the specified torque of 76 ft/lbs. As a final check take the vehicle to an incline where it would normally just roll and check to see that it does so in both directions. For those that might prefer the handbrake to be on with just one click don't forget that if it binds it will get hot and cause a lot of damage so whatever happens make sure you do these checks to make sure it is free.
  43. 1 point
    Hello Everyone and particularly Neil (aka Agent Orange). Just an update to my post dated 22nd March 2017. I finally had a little time to try and repair the electrical connector which was detaching itself from the glass. It might not be pretty but saved me a shed-load. Thanks Neil for the Plastic Padding tip. Kind regards, Bob Sutton.
  44. 1 point
    Does your car creep on its own when releasing the brake pedal and without pressing the throttle? if no then your transmission needs reinitialising
  45. 1 point
    Hi Just an update - sorry for late reply. Had the valve fitted and new software updated - whilst it did start OK, I am not 100% sure its made much difference as I think there is still a slight bit of hesitance - only time will tell. The dealer gave me a certificate which showed the old and new software version - can anyone confirm that either 1) the software that has been put on is the latest, or 2) whether or not the old software had in fact been updated at some point? Old Software - 30245400 New Software - 302V0000 I'm sure that you need at least software 302V0000 for the increased fuel pressure, but just wondered whether my old one was in fact old, or whether ive done a backwards step! Thanks all
  46. 1 point
    Illuminated mirror switch: David has worked his magic on this one. With some serious Googling, I sourced two of the correctly sized illuminated mirror switches (one for each of us), and David fixed the complicated wiring. It's technologically beyond me but it looks fantastic! Thanks, David, for your perseverance. It looks and operates like it was fitted at the factory. Chris
  47. 1 point
    I asked my local dealer but they said they couldn't fit me one and recommended me a place further down the road.
  48. 1 point
    It does not have an alarm. It has an immobilizer which stops the car being started unless the correct (ie one of the ones supplied with the car) key is used (and stops it being started if someone tries to "hot-wire" the ignition). Toyota do an alarm themselves which is designed to link in to the vehicles existing electronics and can be fitted after purchase - ask a Toyota Dealer. It won't do much extra to stop the car being stolen but will possibly deter break ins.
  49. 1 point
    I see 'cruise' is available on the Verso S where it is still sold today, I wonder if it could be retro-fitted without too much trouble and expense to a 2 year old UK example? Little point in asking the dealership as when presented with a 'off piste' question, Toyota emporiums, like all other franchises, follow the same mantra, 'just say no'!
  50. 1 point
    Hi, I had the same problem. Poor start with cold day, engine sometimes only puff-puff and stall (blue-white smoke). In last three years I changed glow plugs, battery, overhaul fuel pump, bought new injectors, bought fuel warmer etc. But everything without effect. Now I found where is problem. If you have a small SCV valve on fuel pump (called Compact SCV) try this home made diagnostic: warm up SCV valve before starting in cold day using hot water or hot airgun (about 80°C). When engine start for first time, piston in SCV valve is seized (rather chill diminishes tolerance and piston seized). Denso prepare new version of SCV valve, please wait few days, I prepare complete guide with pictures, order numbers and Denso service manual. P.S. I´m sorry for my english, because I´m from Czech Republic :-) Edit: 6.2.2013 - Here is part number: new one - 0422626020 (replace old 042260L030) After replace SCV, you must make Supply Pump Initialization Procedure - see enclosed Denso Repair Manual, Repair Section/2.Diagnostic Overview/2-113 to 2-115. I make this process with Toyota IT II (Intelligent Tester), I think that this way is better than connecting terminals TC and CG.. After replacing SCV during calibration were two random errors. Both of these errors concerned Air Mass sensor and Intake Air Temperature. I erased all this errors three times during calibration. Now is everything OK. Torque for SCV bolts is 6,9Nm first, 10,8Nm second. DENSO CR SERVICE MANUAL.pdf



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