Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 03/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    For those who wear spectacles and experience glare from car lights at night or in poor light conditions, it may be worth looking at the different types of lenses available. For example Zeiss have their DriveSafe lenses, of which one of the benefits is reduced glare from street lights and car lights. My wife has these and found them to be better for her. https://www.zeiss.co.uk/vision-care/en_gb/products-services/spectacle-lenses/drivesafe-lenses.html Obviously there may be alternatives on offer.
  2. 3 points
    With a Gen 3 or 4 Prius (and maybe other Toyota models [*]) there is also the option of using the Hill Start Assist (HSA) feature. People will no doubt have varying ideas as to the desirability of this, but it's there if you want it. On a Gen 3, briefly pressing the main brake pedal a bit harder invokes HSA (it beeps when activated and I think the Stability Control light flashes), and when the foot is removed the brakes are held on for 2 seconds, which is enough to start accelerating. On a Gen 4, just releasing the main brake pedal activates HSA if the slope is more than the creep can hold, and again keeps the brakes on for 2 seconds, but there's no beep or dash light. [*] I've noticed this system on a C-HR Hybrid and Aygo MMT that I've driven too.
  3. 3 points
    problem solved sticking SCV on the diesel pump, replaced and all o.k., just thought id mention it incase someone else gets this at a later date.
  4. 2 points
    Brake lights don't blind anyone, unless that individual is so visually-impaired they shouldn't be driving at night in the first place. The glare may be mildly uncomfortable to look at, and it is perfectly reasonably for you to wish to minimise others' discomfort, but let's not make out that it's some kind of an unforgiveable sin to not be overly bothered about this. I would respectfully suggest your old driving instructor could perhaps have laid off with the threats of GBH and instead promoted the zen-like art of finding something other than the brake lights of the car in front to stare at whilst in traffic. It's definitely better for the blood pressure! Regarding safety, I prefer prevention to mitigating impact. So whilst coming off the brake in a collision is certainly a valid downside to keeping your foot on the pedal, it's worth bearing in mind that you are far less likely to be hit in the first place if your brake lights are actually illuminated. It's also far quicker to take evasive action if you see someone approaching rapidly in the mirror than it is if you have to release the handbrake, get into gear or shift out of park. Pete has already described his approach of waiting until a car appears behind before taking his foot off the brake, which seems like a sensible approach to both these issues. However, at that point, you have an entire car's worth of shock absorption behind you, which means far less need to be concerned about a serious impact anyway. I'm not posting the above in any attempt to change anyone's views - just to explain why I adopt the foot-on-brake approach. None of us are going to change what we've done for years just because of what some other random dude on the internet says, but it's always interesting to get an insight into the thinking behind others' driving behaviour. This thread also reminds me of why I still come back to this forum to post now and again: because people on here can have an argument without descending into the aggression or name-calling that characterises some other motoring websites!
  5. 2 points
    Your car probably doesn't have traction control. My 2009 Auris doesn't have it for example. Usually no button = no traction control fitted.
  6. 2 points
    Josh, do what Alan sez... basically what I stated in my second post in this thread... but Alan said it better :) You may be turning a straight forward cam belt job into space opera! If that sucker turns over by hand and you have compression with a new belt on then fire her up; you have nothing to lose bar the price of fitting the belt. Better the devil you know rather than a new engine of un-known history! Unfortunately it seems that those so called mechanics you were dealing with are scammers! If you can find an honest mechanic that will tell you like it is... then he is worth his weight in gold!
  7. 2 points
    At the moment you have an engine which had a broken timing belt. An untrustworthy garage has taken the rocker cover off but possibly not really checked anything, and you can't find out whether you have an interference engine or not. I reckon you have some options... 1) Turn the crankshaft by hand. If it turns complete cycles there's a chance it hasn't smashed anything - so fit a new timing belt. Turn the engine by hand again and check whether the valves go in/out properly (and without hitting anything). This will tell whether you have bent valves. If all seems ok then refit the rocker cover and do a compression test. This will tell if you have smashed pistons. If all is ok then attempt to start the engine. Bear in mind you could still have slightly bent valves, so you'll need to see how it goes from there, considering how well (or badly) the engine runs. 2) Strip the cylinder head off and check the pistons and valves. Replace parts as necessary. 3) Fit a replacement engine. Personally, I'd start with option 1) which, assuming all goes well, will only really cost the same as having a new timing belt fitted, give or take an hour or so labour.
  8. 2 points
    As Stephen said it is down to certification. The only LEDs afaik that are currently legal for road use in the UK are those where the complete bulb & light unit have been designed/tested together (either as part of a new car or as a complete aftermarket replacement unit). Because LEDs output light differently they often output a different beam pattern from existing reflectors. Manufacturers like Osram & Philips aim to develop LED bulbs that will be straight swaps for existing bulbs but have not yet managed.
  9. 2 points
    Also running winter tyres (Conti TS860 on steel wheels) here. I didn't get stuck once and we got it pretty bad here in Norfolk, especially out in the sticks, when the wind picked up. Passed many a stuck 4x4 and battled on through a good 2' of drifts at times. I have no pictures from the UK event but I was in the Swiss Alps last week, a place that gets far worse snow than we do and only needed to stick some chains on for the steepest part of the Bernina pass.
  10. 1 point
    I have a Gen 4 Prius Excel and over recent months the external door handles on both front doors have stopped returning to their shut positions. They now have to be pushed the last 6mm or so to click shut. The fault has got progressively worse as when it first started, the inertia of shutting a door made the handle finally click into place. This no longer works. I thought a bit of grease or WD40 would cure the problem but as the car is only 18 months old, I decided to let my Toyota dealer do this. However, after examining the handles, the Service Dept. said the problem is more complex and they need to take the handles apart. This may involve stripping parts of the doors. On PriusChat an owner from Ireland recently reported the same problem but no one has offered an explanation. Has anyone else come across this on a Gen 4 Prius?
  11. 1 point
    @kithmo - IT's a valid question seeing as literally 99% of road users DON'T use handbrake-neutral!! But no, it's not just my opinion; This is what the highway code explicitly says, and was virtually hammered into me by my driving instructor! ;) You can and will quickly rack up minors until they become an insta-fail major fault for not doing handbrake+neutral in a manual car when stationary during a driving test! @Ten Ninety - During the day they're fine, but it's dusk and night that is the problem - Maybe many people have fairly poor nightvision, but as someone who has quite good eyesight and nightvision, I can say brake lights *are* blinding at night, especially these new super-bright LED arrays that you get on e.g. newer Audis and Priuses! Just a second at night is enough to leave a bunch of blobs in my vision which could easily lead to me missing one of the Dressed-In-Black suicidal pedestrians that tend to randomly run across the road in the places I drive. Some years ago I started just closing my eyes while waiting in traffic at night because I can see the glow of the brakelights *through my eyelids*! And clearly enough to see when they go out and know it's time to move! @Dancing Badger - I play that game too! XD Usually I am the only person doing neutral+handbrake sadly, and it's so rare to see another person do it that when I do I get disproportionately excited... >_> It warms my heart to read so many of you don't stand on the footbrake for ages - It's so rare to see it in The Real World, and it makes me feel a bit better to know I'm not the only person who actually paid attention to the highway code! ^___^
  12. 1 point
    Welcome...but a rather strange intro. Please enlighten us...why would you buy a car that's not functional..and what regrets might you have.?
  13. 1 point
    One other thing about "N", is that if the petrol engine happens to be running when you select it (maybe because it's warming up, heating the cabin or charging the HV battery), it will continue running indefinitely, wasting fuel and wasting the electricity being generated. There is a small cost too, of sitting in N while the engine is not running, as the car's ancillaries are consuming power that will ultimately need to be replaced either by running the engine or working it harder while driving.
  14. 1 point
    Want to explain this? How exactly does this configuration waste energy? And the key point here is "a long time". My HV battery can sit in N for well over 20 min if reasonably full until it get to the point of needing to charge. Also an important factor is being present in the car while it is in N, never use N unattended. I also see a difference between parking up, as in a parking area, parking building or at the side of a road, as opposed to stop for an extended time in a traffic jam or light with a long cycle. In all my distance of driving, I have had the warning message twice. Both times, it just required pressing the P button. When you consider this, it is a con, but not a significant one.
  15. 1 point
    Haven't VAG heard of chains? That was one less thing to worry about on the T25.
  16. 1 point
    Hello Svein - welcome to Toyota Owners Club
  17. 1 point
    The article dates from February 2017. Looks to me like pictures of the Auris prototype - possibly the new Touring Sport, or whatever the new estate will be called. Also at this year's Geneva show, Toyota declared they will drop diesel engines from their European passenger car range during 2018 - leaving diesel versions of the Hilux, Landcruiser and Proace in place - which will mean no more BMW diesels being used. Think a new Corolla saloon will be unveiled within the next year. The new Auris already has a larger wheelbase and as the two cars share a lot of their structure, etc, presumably the new Corolla will also grow in size (the current Corolla has the same size wheelbase as the Avensis and Prius).
  18. 1 point
    I'm assuming this is with the engine is running. If so, then the additional load of heated seats and so on should all be met from the alternator. Worth making sure the battery terminals are tight. Does it ring any bells ? Erm yes, kind of, but not on a Toyota. Years back I had a new Audi A4, and among the myriad issues that it had through its life was a weird electrical issue. Turning the aircon on caused the cassette player to eject. The fuel gauge read low. The wipers came on by themselves. The washers trickled out water that wouldn't reach the base of the screen...... This was an intermittent issue and the dealer couldn't find the problem. In the end I had a poke and tug of all the wires behind the dash and by good fortune found the problem. A large earth tag with many returns to it was hanging loose, the bolt having come undone. This was located in the passenger footwell behind the kick plate. On a Toyota... well I would look for more simple reasons first before suspecting a major issue.
  19. 1 point
    There is a really easy test you can do, find a snow covered shopping car park without any trolley bays and have some fun.
  20. 1 point
    Electronic stability control/vehicle stability control, which often includes traction control, became mandatory for new vehicles from November 2014
  21. 1 point
    I'd be interested to know why you're not buying another Passat. A small percentage of the AD engines suffered head gasket failures due to carbon buildup, all varieties were affected but anecdotal evidence suggests the larger engines more so, probably because of the increased output. However all manufacturers have problems from time to time, as anyone with a BXE engined VW will tell you if they were unfortunate enough to see a connecting rod through the front of the block. This was due to a cost cutting measure where VW decreased the size of the crank journals in their cheaper derivatives. If you really don't need the power and lack of economy that comes with a 2.2, either of the 2.0 engines are very sturdy and will outlast your will to drive them, though the earlier 1CD engine seems to have a subjectively better reputation, and may be suitable if you're ok with cam belts.
  22. 1 point
    Last MOT expired 8th October 2016, and looks like it is SORN'd.
  23. 1 point
    It was the gear linkages that needed adjusting thanks for the help
  24. 1 point
    Android Auto not sure if there is a IOS which works the same, but its great, as works over Google Maps, can set speeds up on it and even warning sound if you go over that. You can set it to how ever many miles you want over the set speed. Its a free app, you can pay for a upgraded app, but lve not needed too, so with trying the free one first, set it to work with Goole maps, great instructions from both
  25. 1 point
    can you not get on with the steering controls for the main features of the climate control and audio? I found I could find the buttons by feel quite easily. It's a few years since I last drove a Gen 2 Prius, but from memory there was something about the shape of each steering wheel button that made it easy to identify.
  26. 1 point
    How did we arrive at this situation... it should not cost a kings ransom to repair a car? It almost seems that the manufactures are deliberately making them in such a way as to make them economically un-repairable! Good for car sales business, but not for the earths resources... a car should last a good thirty to forty years before being recycled. We don't have limitless resources on this planet to just keep making new and scrapping older vehicles. When I started work as a mechanic in the early sixties it was not unusual at all to be working on cars from the thirties and forties... We really must stop this waste; we have the technology and materials now to make cars last a lot longer that they currently do. It’s all about turn-over and new sales/profit.
  27. 1 point
    Thanks to Madasafish - the passenger side sensor WAS choked with rust flakes stuck to the sensor magnet and the toothed wheel was also very dirty with rust and other debris. cleaned it all up and bingo all is good with ABS. Including snapping the securing bolt and drilling it out and retapping the thread it took me about 2 hours.
  28. 1 point
    Did you get it mate? All fitted now?
  29. 1 point
    Don't think the clips are faulty, just a poor design, and seems to be a fairly common weak point.
  30. 1 point
    Hi Andy, welcome to TOC Certainly not unknown on T25 Tourers. It's probably failed seals. You can replace/reseal or drill a tiny hole to allow it to drain.
  31. 1 point
    Many cars on proper winter tyres will outperform 4x4s on summers. proper winter tread design works even better ... but yes, it's a no of things that all contribute.
  32. 1 point
    I have changed all my interior lights to LED and it makes a huge difference. I would like to change my indicators to LED, but as far as I am aware there are no road legal replacement LED bulbs for external lighting on the market in the UK. All the ones you see on eBay/Amazon etc do not have the right type approvals and are therefore illegal for road use. Even ones you see in Halfords will say not legal for on road use or show use only or words similar.
  33. 1 point
    You're comparing a power consumption, not light output. Take into account that brake lights are normally headlight, and when stopped behind a car they're directly in front within 10 meters, when driving they're a lot further away - no different to how an oncoming car with main beams on will cause little or no dazzle when a mile away, but at 100 meters will be very uncomfortable.
  34. 1 point
    [OFF TOPIC] Ha! Reminds me of conversations online in the early days of my Gen 1 Prius, some 16 years ago, when US members of the Prius Yahoo chat group were gobsmacked that we got so much better mpg than they did, until someone reminded them that the Imperial Gallon is one of very few examples of something we have that's bigger than theirs!
  35. 1 point
    MAF sensor? I have mentioned to "I" elsewhere that it is a typical fault when the car has no performance. Try cleaning it first before deciding to replace. If cleaning, use MAF sensor cleaner or electrical contact spray. Do not use carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner. They are very aggressive and can damage the wire in the MAF sensor.
  36. 1 point
    Hi Helle, welcome to TOC hopefully Tarquin can help you
  37. 1 point
    With the original gen3 PiP the Li-Ion battery resulted in better MPG over the standard Prius if used as a conventional hybrid without plugging it. My PiP used to do 70mpg real world with ease at motorway speeds without plugging in on long journeys.
  38. 1 point
    Apart from the obvious question of "why does it matter".?..you are never going to find out true readings without the use of professional equipment surely. People's general experiences and claims of "0 to whatever" times are largely meaningless..rather like mpg figures.!
  39. 1 point
    I've heard this rumoured too, but not seen anything in print from Toyota, nor any evidence in either my last Gen 3 or current Gen 4 Prius. If it happens, it would probably only be once the HV battery was getting close to danger level, and that's not something I'd want to experiment with.
  40. 1 point
    I thought this is only a limitation with earlier generations of Prius? I heard leaving a gen 3 or newer in N will still allow it to charge the battery, although I haven't tested it myself... I think they just wanted to make it operate as close to a normal car as possible. One of the primary target markets for the Prius are yanks, who are used to the way a traditional auto box works. Personally, if I'm stuck in traffic for a long time, I use the parking brake and N. Otherwise I keep my foot on the (service?) brake. I'd certainly not keep it in D with the parking brake on - I've had enough cars with crap handbrakes to know this could potentially end badly.
  41. 1 point
    Using N for short periods of time will do no harm as long as the State of Charge doesn't go below 2 bars, although I'm not advocating using it when stopped in traffic (from 6 bars it can last over 20 minutes if not too many electrical systems are on). I think it's there in case the car needs to be pushed. Unofficially, some people also like to select it briefly on the move to rub rust off the disc brakes, as it also disables regen braking. I'm also surprised crawl isn't disabled when the parking brake is on, even (relatively) cheap Aygo autos (MultiMode) are clever enough to do that! I don't know why a Hybrid needs to creep at all. I wish they'd take a leaf out of Tesla's book and have a menu option to choose whether to creep or not. I used to sometimes drive a CVT Micra which didn't creep, and it was so much more restful in heavy traffic. Personally I think it's bad manners and bad driving to stay on the brake pedal for more than a minute or so if someone is behind you, especially in the wet and/or night time. This is in the Highway Code: "In stationary queues of traffic, drivers should apply the parking brake and, once the following traffic has stopped, take their foot off the footbrake to deactivate the vehicle brake lights. This will minimise glare to road users behind until the traffic moves again. Law RVLR reg 27".
  42. 1 point
    This is one of the little niggles about the HSD (and, to be fair, lots of other automatics now!) - They encourage bad driving practices. With a Manual gearbox, if you are gong to be stopped for anything but the briefest pauses, you should go Handbrake + Neutral - This makes the car safe and doesn't blind the drivers behind you at night ("If a pause becomes a wait, USE THE HANDBRAKE OR I'LL BREAK YOUR LEGS!" as my instructor used to jokingly say. Well, at least I think he was joking... ) In the HSD however, you can't use neutral as it will eventually drain the battery. (Neutral is absolutely pointless on the HSD as it can't actually disengage the gears - Someone told me the only reason it's there is for legal requirements!) Also, you can't use D + Parking brake as the HSD will try to 'creep' against the parking brake and stress the leccy motor unnecessarily. Most HSD owners just commit the cardinal sin of standing on the foot-brake (Which, to be fair, is what 99% of drivers seem to do regardless of auto or manual!), but really the 'proper' way would be to engage the parking brake and then hit P so that even if you did get rear-ended the parking brake should take most of the impact and hopefully the pawl for the parking brake won't get sheared off...! I really don't know why Toyota made the car creep in D with the parking brake engaged - If they hadn't then D+Parking brake would be perfect!
  43. 1 point
    Exactly the way I do it with the same considerations in standing traffic.
  44. 1 point
    I do exactly as the same in all the automatics I have driven, foot brake on and leave car in drive. The only time I will put it in park is the rare occasion the traffic is at a standstill due to an accident or so similar as I know everyone is stoppped for an extended period.
  45. 1 point
    I am not sure if it helps with the spark plugs, but it does help for some parts like the gearbox and certain valves in the car. Imagine how many times you use the 5th (or even 6th) gear while you drive in town.
  46. 1 point
    Great info @YarisHybrid2016 I regularly rev the Aygo to 6k rpm, not by choice, but needed to join a dual carriageway safely. It's uphill, so 2nd gear floored is the only way to reach speed. My spark plugs at 30k were looking in rude health. I'm a firm believer in the Italian tune-up concept.
  47. 1 point
    I removed the grommet and the problem is solved now
  48. 1 point
    A year ago I put the space saver in our 2013 Auris Hybrid. Further to the chart above, I thought some pictures might be of use. A shallower trim piece is required for the boot slam panel, this is very reasonably priced in the UK (less than £10). I have shown it next to the original piece in the picture. The lower boot floor is not well supported and it is tilted (picture) when the wheel is fitted. The wheel carrier is the one recommended by my dealer and was about £10, which seemed a bit steep, other very similar ones (for a Yaris?) are half that price. The spare wheel is not big enough to accommodate the jack and handle, so these have to go somewhere else. (The photo shows the tyre size I have). There are 4 rubber blocks that are needed to hold the metal wheel rim off the metal boot floor, but I used a heavy duty carpet tile instead. Your spare wheel could go either way up, I can't see much benefit to either. I have not used the wheel in anger, but your existing wheel nuts should fit, but will use the taper at their end to secure the wheel, instead of the flat/washer face they use on the alloy. I have tried a full size alloy (195/65 x 15) in the boot, just because I have one. The slam panel would need serious cutting to fit this in, it is very tight. The lower boot floor is then so high that it barely exists. On the new Auris, the spare wheel is standard in the UK, and is fitted the other way up, meaning a different (longer) carrier/clamp is required. Also, these cars have completely different boot plastics which finish the boot off properly, but that are (dealer) reported to cost hundreds when ordered as a spare part. (Last 2 pictures). HTH
  49. 1 point
    Been meaning to do this for a while now today I managed to get the wagon de badged I’m pretty pleased with the results
  50. 1 point
    UPDATE 18 Jan 2018 I now recommend fitting one of these cost £69.00 FAP DPF Emulator for TOYOTA D4D, DCAT *** CAN BUS version eBay item number 122289701127 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FAP-DPF-Emulator-for-TOYOTA-D4D-DCAT-CAN-BUS-version/122289701127?hash=item1c7908c107:g:Th0AAOSwRLZUEVaf II have listed their claims below note units do take around two weeks to arrive, I confirm that we have fitted five to date and not had one issue plus I’m delighted to say that NONE of our fourteen Avensis currently smoke therefore I have no hesitation in recommending these units though I have not actually noticed any better fuel consumption but to be honest I not have I done any before and after checks of consumptions. Their notes copied from eBay GUARANTEE: no more dpf diesel particulate filter problems better fuel consumption no white smoke no warning light (regarding DPF FAP filter) no more regeneration Lifetime warranty Technical support and installation instructions sent by email. This device have a waterproof design - can be mounted under the engine bonnet. We recommend to make installation of this device for qualified specialist only. Back to Me Fitting his unit cured smoking problem including the ones that were fixed using the other methods I have listed on the forums that had started smoking again. Point to note is that THREE lots of wiring diagrams are included with kit make sure whoever fits kit picks the right one for the age / model of your Avensis. If you go down this route NOTE you do not have to block or Blank off the fifth injector in fact the supplier recommends that you leave it in place some wires to the ECU and fifth injector have to be cut bypassing various measurements making this a job not for the none confident so I would suggest fitting is best left to a competent auto electrician. NOTE THIS WILL NOT fix faulty injectors so if that’s your issue you will still need to sort that. If you try this PLEASE Re Post and let us all know how you get on as I have not had one fail to cure problem yet. Best regards, Mel. Hope this helps anyone still having problems. BUT PLEASE DO NOT contact me if the advice on the Forums or this document do not fix your problem as to date I have nothing more I can add Best Regards, Mel. 17 Jan 2018 z99Smoking Avensis 02 Sep 2015 -17 Jan 2018.docx