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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/17/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    You missed the context - it is a mistake if you want to be efficient (use less power) and, I would imagine, a person that buys a hybrid has their eye on efficiency.
  2. 2 points
    My own mechanic recommends replacing the pump just in case it leaks after the belt is replaced, U just bought the car I think better safe than sorry, and get year's of trouble free motoring by replacing all the bit's. I think.
  3. 2 points
    Assuming the menus are mostly the same as my non-plugin Gen 4 Prius: yes, you can disable the Road Sign Assist. That takes it off the HUD and off the screen nest to the speedo. In its place, you get a real-time mpg meter (0-100 on the non-PiP), or HB battery gauge or ECO meter. This extra gauge only disappear when the speed limiter is active, as it uses the space to display the limiter settings. I disabled it because it's inaccurate at least 25% of the time, meaning you often get a red warning in the HUD because it thinks the limit is lower than it is. no idea, must be a PiP thing the YouTube reviews I've seen of the PiP show it having the tonneau cover (but tiny boot space underneath) see first answer You can also disable the info messages popping up about the cruise control and other features, one-by-one in the menus. I agree re the front seats should have electric memory, at least as an option - electric operation is available in some markets, but I don't think they include memories. Personally, I find the front seats very comfortable in my Excel, but a have a fair bit of personal padding too! I find the Gen 4 Prius to be the most comfortable version since the Gen 1 (especially on 15" wheels), which was the best for both seats and suspension IMHO. The Gen 2 was the least comfortable, with (for me) over firm seats and suspension - it came as a shock (pun intended) for some owners who upgraded from Gen 1. I love the adaptive cruise and have learned to live with the limitations, dabbing the throttle if something is turning off in front (or when approaching a slower vehicle I'm about to overtake) and flicking the lever to cancel it when wanting gentle engine braking before a junction, queue or whatever, then using resume. The lane keep assist can be adjusted between 3 sensitivities in the menus, although on mine the standard setting has worked just fine.
  4. 2 points
    I took a Plug-In out for a few hours yesterday, as a possible candidate for replacing my wife's Auris HSD. I had no issues with clarity of the HUD - to me, it was the same as the one in my GS, which I find to be even clearer than the one in my old Gen3. I do remember disliking the HUD in the Gen3 when I first tried one, so maybe it's just something to get used to. The rear view mirror was also fine, although the curved tailgate screen does distort the view in certain areas. Overall, I liked the drive. Sadly the dealership hadn't bothered to charge it up despite me pre-booking, so I didn't experience much electric power. I charged it myself for 30 minutes and got 8 miles of range, which seemed reasonable. Things I loved: Ride quality. This did a great job of smoothing out our terrible road surfaces - better than my GS. Genuinely impressive. Interior fit and finish. A big step up from where Toyota has been in the past. No rattles! Engine noise suppression. Most of the time I had no idea whether the ICE was running or not. Switching from EV to HEV mode was imperceptible at 60mph. Wind and road noise were less impressive but still better than the Auris. Things I think should be better: Seat comfort. Not awful, and certainly not as bad as the terrible Hyundai Ioniq, but still too firm and too lacking in adjustment to be really comfortable. Excel spec should also have electric memory function in my view. Interface ergonomics. No worse than my Lexus, but still a terrible hodgepodge of outdated graphics and unintuitive controls. I'm sure you get used to it, but it doesn't give a great first impression. Adaptive cruise. The brains behind this operation decided to slow the car down on the A14 when a vehicle in front went down a slip road and braked. This should be a solved problem by now - it isn't first-gen cutting edge technology. Also kept flashing up and taking over the MFD each time it decided to 'intervene', which was unnecessary and distracting. Lane Keep Assist. Allowed me to stray well over the lines before beeping at me, by which time I would have already sideswiped someone if the lane wasn't empty. Again, this should be a solved problem. Its only redeeming feature was the ease with which it could be switched off. Things I really hated: Road Sign Assist. I was expecting this to be garbage and it was, missing loads of signs over a 60-mile journey. However, I hadn't realised it would also infect the HUD. I found this infuriating because it kept removing the power meter just when I wanted to look at it, when accelerating into a new speed limit. Using the indicators. The turn signal stalk undermined the general feel of quality - it made a horrible hollow clunk every time I moved it. However, that was nothing compared to the excruciating, nails-down-blackboard squeaky click of the actual turn signal 'click'. Truly horrid. Is this modelled on the sound German cars make? It would certainly explain why drivers of said cars never seem to indicate. Questions: Is it possible to disable Road Sign Assist? I found it in the settings and thought I'd turned it off, but it didn't go away. Just getting it off the HUD would be enough for me. I sat in the car fiddling with settings, whilst it was plugged in and charging. Every 3 minutes or so, everything switched off and I had to push the Power button again. Is this normal? There is no roll-out luggage cover. I presume this is because the boot is so shallow, but I'd still want one. I saw that the mouldings were present - can a cover from a standard Gen4 be retro-fitted? Is there a way to get an instant mpg readout on the MFD alongside the 1-minute graph like you could on the Gen3? Was it there somewhere and I just missed it?
  5. 1 point
    Avensis should be about 46mpg on paper combined, my reality about 41mpg. Auris 1.6 about 47mpg on paper reality about 47mpg. Both regular brim to brim and on same commute at same times of year etc so I believe a fair comparison. Drive is rural, about 14miles on free flowing but twisty roads. Avensis boot is same width as auris but about 4-5" deeper front to back (have an auris boot liner in the avensis (out of the previous auris I sold) so very easy to compare sizes - the liner fits the avensis relatively well!). Avensis is far nicer car to sit in, much heavier car to drive and has far better equipment. Rear legroom is MUCH better on the avensis. Roks - I had a 1.2 tourer for a couple of days on a test drive and much preferred my 1.6. 1.2 had more pull than 1.6 but over a shorter range. Not as smooth to drive, economy not much different that 1.6 as far as I could tell, can't put my finger on it but just didn't like the turbo engine - I'm sure others do! Add this reticence to the fact that the 1.2 hasn't been tried/tested for that long and I moved away from a new auris and towards the non turbo avensis. Personally I'd go for a 2014 1.6 over a 2014 1.2 but that's just me! I'm sure those who own the 1.2 would suggest to go for that!!!
  6. 1 point
    Update: I work with IT and I thought "What's the standard solution for 90 % of all IT problems?" The answer is a reboot, so I decided to disconnect and reconnect the battery. Worked like a charm! I no longer have to fiddle with the key in the dark 😁 Thanks to all of you!
  7. 1 point
    Hello Neil - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.
  8. 1 point
    Which could easily develop into an instance of road rage especially if the other driver strongly objects to such action. Please return to the topic subject.
  9. 1 point
    Hi Just a thought guys... How about if i were to find a lonnng usb lead that fits my dashcam and then run this frim the dashcam, through the roof liner, down the A pillar, and down a side wall some where, and let it dangle very near to the cigarette port whereby i already have a usb charger plugged in. If such lonnng usb leads exist on ebay...then its an option. Agree???
  10. 1 point
    This engine is the same as the Carina/Avensis of the same period and all the parts are the same. Haynes covers both the cars. By the way, your car is AT200. The AT202 is the 2.0l engine. You have got the part numbers correct. Have a look at the following link:- http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1998/celica/at200r-blmskw/3_252570_002_/tool-engine-fuel/1605_v-belt Here are the links to the part number from Conti and Gates:- http://www.gatesautocat.com/drive/TOYOTA/Celica/AT200/7AFE/11-93_11-99/102839 Drive belts, ALT 5PK970, power steering 3PK628, AC 4PK860 http://aam-europe.contitech.de/pages/web-katalog/web-katalog_en.cshtml Drive belts, ALT 5PK975, power steering 3PK630, AC 4PK860 - I fitted these actual belts to my old car. The Gates cambelt kit which was fitted to my old Avensis is part number K015386XS, and includes the tensioner. The discrepancies between the belt sizes are small, and the adjustments should take up the slack. Be careful when removing the crank pulley because it is has a rubber layer between the in and outer metal parts. Never use a puller on the out ring. Use the threaded holes. The pulley can cost between £40 to £300 to replace! Mine failed destroying the alternator and air-con belts. Lucky this happened as I left my house. The coolant pump being driven by the drive belts and 'NOT' the cambelt, can be changed independent of the cambelt. I can be changed without touching the cambelt. This is covered in the Avensis Haynes manual. If it has been already changed and not leaking, then leave. You can decide. The one good thing about the 7A-FE engine is that the engine is a non-interference engine. That means if anything happened, the engine should be safe. Some members have had broken belts and just replaced, like old Vauxhall and Maestro/Montego engines.
  11. 1 point
    I read through those posts and they seem like T22 specific things, as you stated. However, I don't think the keys are causing the issue. My significant other uses one of the keys and I use the other one, and neither of them work now. I find it hard to believe something happened to both keys at the same time. I'm guessing it's an issue with the car itself, and sadly, I don't know how the remote system works. I'm guessing it's a receiver of some sorts connected to the central locking system which either needs reprogramming or replacing, and since I don't know how I can test it, I guess I'll have to visit Mr. T 😔 I'm still going to pick up an ODB2 scanner though, to save me some trouble in the future.
  12. 1 point
    It's a bit over the top though - all they need to do for that is disable being able to take it out of P. It's a nuisance if you want to wait in the car while charging, e.g. using the radio or aircon.
  13. 1 point
    Think more detailed information on dimensions and specs will be available much nearer to the launch date.
  14. 1 point
    Update. Turns out that the headlight level sensor can be defective without showing error message on instrument panel. As long as the outer pins on the sensor has connection with about 5Kohm, the system won't detect failure. The center pin on the sensor/potentiometer was broken because of corosion inside. The sensor price is high, but you can get it at ebay for around $15.
  15. 1 point
    If it's like the 1st gen Plug-in, I think so. You can't really turn on the car properly when it's charging, certainly not "Ready" mode anyway. I forget how long it stays on for, not something I do very often.
  16. 1 point
    Could be a relay chattering.. Open bonnet and listen near fuse box.. or grovel in drivers side footwell, remove cover to fusebox and listen.
  17. 1 point
    Hi Johan. Have you got a OBD2 reader just incase it has thrown up any fault codes? Mike.
  18. 1 point
    The problem is that the cheaper scan tools are only generally capable of reading the generic codes set by the engine management computer(s) as these are the minimum that must be readable by generic scanners. But, in order to read all of the Prius computers a more capable scanner is required. Unfortunately, this costs more. You also need to decide whether you want to have a compact hand-held or are happy to use a laptop based solution. For the latter there is an OBDII –> USB cable/dongle called VxDiag VCX Nano for Toyota that works very well and is reasonably cheap if you already have an old laptop you can dedicate to a diagnostic laptop. Otherwise it is buyer beware, and make sure the scanner you get is capable of reading all computers, can access the freeze frame data (FFD) and if it can access live data is a very good feature too. For all this capability you have to acknowledge to need to pay something.
  19. 1 point
    You could try turning the lights on without the engine running. See if there is still any noise. It could be that the alternator is on its way out. My daughters yaris alternator failed and its the same age as yours. Oh, and grease the brake pipes too....they are a common mot fail due to corrosion.
  20. 1 point
    Lovely mate, I reckon it would look even nicer with some hub caps on.
  21. 1 point
    2012 was the facelift year for the Gen 3. Different tail lights, moved foglights and IIRC DRLs introduced. The nav system was changed to Touch & go too. I don't think there were any changes in 2014.
  22. 1 point
    Check the Kit to be precise, but no - none need to go to the battery unless the kit directly says so. The fuse box and existing ground cables will work fine. Honestly, its best to read the instructions than anything i've written below, they are usually more accurate and detailed - but if not then there is a general setup for most dashcams: If there is only 2 wires, red and black: then black goes to ground, technically anywhere you can. -A metal point on the car such as a bolt hole would work as ground, where you would use a proper fitting such as a Crimp Ring Terminal end, but it would be best to use an existing ground cable, which are everywhere, such as the one off the back of the audio/stereo unit. -The red power cable goes to a power source which is only live when the ignition is on - usually there is an inline fuse on the red cable and it either goes over(piggy backs e.g Halfords "Autoblade Add-a-fuse") to the cig lighter fuse or replace's it altogether. The cig light will still work, its just the dashcam will draw from there - The Cig lighter fuse is used because it only activates when thee ignition is on. That way a simplistic dash cam wont stay on and drain the battery when the car is switch off. IgnON/DashcamON --> IngOFF/Dashcamoff Most hardwired kits however have at least 4 cables, as most dash cams these days have more features: - That means there is often 4 cables - 1 Ground, 1 Power (Permanent), 1 Power (Ignition) and an Aux line. --The ground is the same as above, --the Permanent power goes to a permanently live power source, same the same as say where the alarm gets power, (This is so the dash cam can work in standbymode, when the car is off and unattended, such as using motion detection to take picture of people looking into your parked car) --the Ignition power goes to an ACC line or something like the cig lighter fuse, that way the dashcam knows when the ign is switched on, and goes into video recording mode. The dashcam kit should tell you specifically how it should be connected. --and the AUX(usually a proper plug on the end) goes into the back of the stereo so you can view the dashcam on your cars LCD screen (if you have one with AUX input, but makes a terrible reversing camera lol) -In my old car I had two separate dash-cams, one at front, one at back, (I hardwired both - 4 cables each. piggybacked the Cig Light Fuse for Ign Source cable, piggybacked the fuse for the alarm, grounded to a frame bolt behind the dash, and plugged the two aux's into front and rear aux on my head unit. B@ST#RD thing to wire up 😞 -WHen I would park the car, the dashcams went into "observe mode" snapping pictures by motion dection or recording for a duration on an impact. When i got back and started the car, it went into Normal record mode. Next you have more complex and expensive dashcams which integrate into the car, alarm, stereo and more - They have their own GPS, sim and antenna, and the cables get right out of control for those. It allows the dash-cam to be mush more "smart" in when to turn on, display and even interact on the car LCD screen, knowing how to turn on, what turn on(IR light for example), detection and zoom, record extra information about location, car speed, etc, even to notify the user of events by phone and even upload video, all automatically. Basically more like a smartphone than a dashcam. As I said though, It really best to use the kit instructions than any of the rambling above, and have a professional installer do it for you... I wouldn't listen to the advise above :)
  23. 1 point
    I've owned 2 2014 auris 1.6 tourers (still have 1). One was bought with 13k on it at 9 months old (Icon) for £9750. The other I bought pre reg and still have along with Avensis tourer. 1.6 is a great engine in the car. Quick enough, smooth and surprisingly economical. General driving (multiple brim to brim checks) I get 44-48mpg and can get low 50s on long runs - far better than the avensis which on paper should be about the same. At 4 yrs and only 30k miles I'm starting to get suspension and steering noises so suspect work will be due shortly. Does get driven over a lot of very poor quality relatively fast country roads but sooner than I thought these things would start to rattle/clonk! Demand for the 1.6 seems to have really gone up over the past couple of years, presumably due to reliability? That said I'd still think you could get a much lower mileage car for that sort of money if you have a bit of patience!
  24. 1 point
    & yes, there will be a Touring Sports version. https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/toyota-auris-sports-tourer-spotted-sleek-new-design
  25. 1 point
    I just looked into the owners manual for my car, and there is a section on "Resynchronised function" in Part 1, chapter 1-2 keys and doors, page 16. It states if the lock and unlock buttons are pressed when out of range of the car or during the replacement of the batteries, unlocking operation does not operate. Then resynchronise the system by the following procedure. (The words are from the handbook and similar to what has been printed on the forum). Open the driver's door when the ignition key is not in the ignition switch. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch, and turn it from "OFF" to "ON" and wait for 10 seconds. Push either the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" switch on the wireless transmitter twice. At this time, operationing noise will be heard at the inside lock knob.Not great English, but sufficient for the process. At least this is in the handbook and not the usual "take the car to your dealer"! So if you have the handbook, check see if a procedure is covered. At least the forum may have a solution.

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