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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Check the charcoal canister according to the manufacturer's specifications. A common problem with them is the leakage of one of the three ports. it is a plastic lid with a port and this lid is glued to the rest of the canister. A sponge with glue is used which eventually fails. It can be removed easily and glued with a better glue for plastics. The canister is on the passenger side of the engine bay, just behind the headlights assembly. A hose is connected to this port from the throttle body housing which is under engine vacuum, thereby drawing air into the engine. Because the Mass air flow sensor is located just after the air filter, this extra air drawn into the engine is not measured. The result is a lean air to fuel mixture with the adverse effects on engine life, overheating in the combustion chambers, pre ignition and poor fuel economy. Regards, Chris.
  2. 2 points
    Begin with the easy things - is the air filter old/choked, and when were the spark plugs last changed. My 2012 1.8 auto could get as low as low to mid 30's if driven fast on motorways, normal driving gave about 40, nun-like driving gave about 50.
  3. 2 points
    Thanks for the welcome! Yes, I'll get a photo on soon. My Carina is a different shape.
  4. 1 point
    My handbook recommends 0w20 fully synthetic oil to be used. That’s what I used on my last oil change but it’s not easy to get hold of, can’t buy it anywhere locally so have to buy online and it’s so expensive for engine oil! I do notice that is says 5w30 can be used but it should be changed to 0w20 as soon as possible. Is it that important to use 0w20 and how much difference does it make compared to using 5w30?
  5. 1 point
    Hi All, was out car shopping for my sister as trying to get her out of her C1 which she'd had forever as it came with free insurance back in the day. So while I was at the dealership I had a good snoop around the GR Sport and I like it for a five door! I've always been a 3dr fan and with having my 2 Yaris's already in 3dr. But you know what it not bad at all and with the car market changing we have to make the best of what we get here in the U.K. The seats are great and steering wheel from the GT86 makes a good addition too, if I try had a manual 6speed with the 1.5 It would be even more fun 👍
  6. 1 point
    The rubber bungs are there to drain water out of the boot if it fills up for any reason. Most cars have them.
  7. 1 point
    The low fuel warning light will come on with ~10l still in the tank so yes, ~33mpg assuming that it was full to start with (but you really should do brim to brim top up). Tbh that is only slightly less than I have been getting in winter with my usage ( quite a high % of urban, often barely warming up) . Is yours a manual or CVT, saloon or estate? As already mentioned check tyres - not only pressures but what size/type they are (e.g. I am now on my winter tyres so don't expect the same fuel economy as on my summers) & that no brakes are binding. Lots of little things add up.
  8. 1 point
    While I wouldn't disagree that it may affect fuel consumption it will be so little that it wouldn't be noticed day to day. It won't cause any adverse effects on the engine so unless you can get hold of the 0w 20 cheaply then I'd just be using the 5w30 it's very similar. Synthetic always recommended as you won't find anything but that with those grades.
  9. 1 point
    The very simple method of resetting everything would be to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for ~10 minutes. Then, once connected back, start the car with all accessories turned off and leave it idling for around 5 minutes, then take it on a nice long drive, or even better would be a drive consisting of mixed driving, such as a bit of city driving, a bit of motorway. I think around the 300-400 mile mark the car should start feeling normal again since it takes a while for the ECU to learn everything again and then you can check the mpg then. If it's still bad then I guess you would need to connect the car to a diagnostic computer to really see what's going on, you really don't want to start changing things willy nilly. Off the top of my head, the spark plugs could be due for a replacement, then the usual air filter, then my guess would be to check the Mass Air Sensor. Last thing is oil. There have been numerous threads on here saying that when car is filled with incorrect oil (for example, if your engine takes 0W-20 but shop puts in 5W-30) then the extra drag on the engine could very well bring those mpgs way down. If this is the case then simply changing the oil would help but I would be very suspicios of something like this. Sure, the oil could've been changed just before selling and previous owner didn't get to see the change, but it could be that the previous owner tried masking an issue with the engine by using a thicker oil which isn't unheard of.
  10. 1 point
    Just manually alter the fan speed to its lowest setting when cold. That will turn the blower fan on (and also enable the A/C if ambient conditions are suitable). That will 100% over ride the Auto setting. Also manually set the desired airflow direction.
  11. 1 point
    I am exploring all the things my C-HR can do. One of the things I am looking at is the pedestrian pre-collision prevention. The online manual has this entry...... Regions Function availability Region A The pedestrian detection function is available Region B The pedestrian detection function is not available However it doesn’t explain how to determine what region the car is from. Anyone got any idea how I find out ?
  12. 1 point
    Any vehicles I've used with climate control work the same - the heater fans don't kick in (or do, but only at the lowest speed) until the engine starts to warm up, then increase as the engine warms. Usually there's a screen defrost button which puts the air flow to the screen, puts the air con on (even tho it doesn't work below at certain temp, usually 3 or 5 deg), and puts the fan on high. The police can't insist you have all windows clear. You need the screen, the front side windows and the wing mirrors clear (ie the same field of vision that a van/truck driver has at all times) . Except if you don't have a n/s mirror - then you also need the rear window clear.
  13. 1 point
    Ok so that's both of us seeing the same. So apparently the Police are very quick now to stop any driver with misted, iced or partial window obscurity on ANY window in a car - 3 points & a big fine for driving like this! So take care if you're tempted to drive off in freezing cold weather. With no manual, I need the best way to get the car heating up inside more rapidly if/when the frost and ice starts. Any ideas with a climate control A/C unit?
  14. 1 point
    On an Auris, I have recently made up one seat from two 'bad' ones. The pneumatic-style lumbar adjustment mechanism (air pump and bag and switch) was in the 'new' (breakers yard) seat, but not the old one, and was transferred across. So I have seen some of the Auris lumbar mechanism close up. I would expect it to be the same design in your car as both cars are from the same Toyota plant, and almost certainly the seats are made by Johnson Controls for Toyota, probably nearby (expensive to transport otherwise?). The inflate/deflate valve and pump are wrapped together in thin grey, vinyl wallet and live at the base of the seat back on the r/h side, on the inside of the major steel side support. On the Auris you can just see this module if the rear seat panel is unzipped completely (the Auris has two vertical zips on the seat back). Just follow the air tube back from the bladder in the seat back. I had no reason to look inside the vinyl bag to get a view of the motor/valve, as I had tested the unit out of the car before fitting. The unit is quite small and a label says it is made in Poland. It is almost completely silent in deflate mode, by the way, just a single click. It has three wires going to to the pump/valve, I imagine these are 12v. to air pump, ground, and 12v. to air release valve. Dismantling the seat is actually quite straightforward. Getting the seat out of the car is very tight, but you may not have to! Expect to find some rust on the seat frame, and look out for sharp edges on the steel pressings! I have no idea of the cost of this part, but this is a Toyota, so I would expect around £1bn + vat. But you may get a small discount if you ask nicely (10%). This picture is of the seat back without foam etc. as seen from the dashboard point of view. HTH
  15. 1 point
    Hi, I'm a new member, just found the site. I have a Toyota Carina E, registered 1992. I was wondering how I could find out how many cars of this era were still around?
  16. 1 point
    A silly video from James May regarding the GRMN: GRMN unboxing Also, if you want the real thing, some are available for around £22K with minimal mileage - check out autotrader.
  17. 1 point
    The Toyota keys I have had (5 cars) have all been easy to open and replace battery, your car manual may describe the action needed. Batteries have been large button battery similar to what goes onto a computer motherboard and can be got from Toyota, probably around £4 fitted, or at Tesco etc for that sort of price for 2 in one pack.
  18. 1 point
    Should be very easy. Check in your handbook. It probably needs a CR2032 button battery
  19. 1 point
    The trouble with a Zoe, is that the battery rental is the same cost as the petrol you would use in a normal economical ICE car. I've raised this with Renault, and they reluctantly agreed with me. We do about 7,000miles a year. This would cost £60/£70 per month depending on Zoe model. 50mpg at £6 per gallon(?) = £850 per year = £70 per month. https://www.renault.co.uk/renault-finance/battery-hire.html Mick.
  20. 1 point
    Malcolm Hi, I assume you have a hatchback. Remove the cover (2 x trim plugs and 2 x screws). Prise out the light strip (2 x clips, one each end). Disconnect wiring plug.Refitting is reverse procedure. Try and get one from a scrappy, and ask if you can watch how it's done.
  21. 1 point
    Hi If he had locked the centre diff then the car would have driven off just fine. And yes, permanent four wheel drives should not be tested on rollers. Leo
  22. 1 point
    So spoke to toyota today they advised its not covered under warranty. And they want £150 for it parts and labour.
  23. 1 point
    Yeah my dealer wants £65 to change the bulb. I wasn't aware it was part of a warranty, but thanks will give them a call
  24. 1 point
    As the lamp is a sealed unserviceable LED unit it is covered under the 5 year/100,000 mile Toyota warranty if it fails, so perhaps give your local dealer a call.
  25. 1 point
    im sure replied to this ages ago oh well here goes again i have the 140 model vvti


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