Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
    Thank you for your observations. Most of what you said was with reference to electric only vehicles. All you said I took into consideration but still decided to ditch my Qashqai and bought my first hybrid - a Auris hybrid. Loved it so much I now have a Prius (all Prius are hybrid or plug-in hybrid). The battery now has a Toyota 15 year warranty so long as you have a battery health check every year - free if you have the car Toyota serviced. Even if a cell went down, they are individual cells and can be replaced individually for not a lot of money. Prius has been on the uk market now for 20 years and not a lot go wrong with them, other then what all cars have to deal with ie tyres, suspension, brakes etc. The engineering of the hybrid system as bullet proof as can be. I just done 27.9 miles today in four separate journeys and clocked 81.1 mpg, done in a very comfy car that I think WILL not depreciate as much as you may think. And there is more to like a hybrid then just good mpg. I pretty pleased on the switch and would not now like to go back. Hydrogen may rule the car sales in 30 years, but we living now, and I certainly wont see 30 years time or if I do I will not be capable of driving. So happy with what i got.
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    My main reason for owning my first Prius was not the economy, I just love the looks, the technology of the drivetrain, reliability and the way it drives. I have never driven such a relaxing car as the Prius and I have had many so called premium brands in the past. The economy is obviously a bonus, its as simple as that for me.
  5. 3 points
    The incentives for electric cars remain - albeit reduced. Then again one has to question whether vehicle manufacturers adopted high prices for electric cars to take advantage of the subsidy.
  6. 2 points
    The Gen 4 Prius (including, I think, the 2nd Gen Plug-in which is based on the Gen 4) don't need this as there is some sort of automatic block that only opens when the engine needs cooling. Can't say I've seen it though, but I haven't really looked - I was happy enough with about 100 extra miles per tankful over the Gen 3, even though the Gen 4 tank is 2 litres smaller. According to the blurb when the car was launched, this helps with aerodynamics as well as warm-up times.
  7. 2 points
    As others said, a single button press while driving shouldn't do anything - you either need to push and hold, or stab the button three times. So unless there's high probability of either of those happening, I wouldn't worry too much.
  8. 2 points
    Get some baking soda, and pour around the wet parts to neutralize the acid. Check the battery caps and close them. I would not drive the car if i was you since the high voltage is popping the plastic caps. If you are lucky, you might find some local place with a spare part, or at a wreckers, and can replace it over the weekend. It's possible the high voltage is triggering the ABS errors as mentioned on 1st page. I wonder what caused this, and the only thing that comes to mind if they reversed the polarity of the battery installing, tried to start to move the car, nothing happened, and then switched it around, but damage to alternator diode was already done.
  9. 2 points
    Well, just to buck the trend... [BTW - Prius no longer gets exception from London Congestion Charge, I'm not even sure the plug-in qualifies now - and if it hasn't happened, it's about to: even Private Hire Vehicles (aka minicabs) will only be exempt if the are fully electric, Hydrogen or possibly plug-in with a fairly high EV range.] I first drove Gen 3s at a test track 6 months before launch, and then company ones for a few weeks to get to know them as I managed a fleet of 200-300 Prius which was expanding and swapping from Gen 2 to 3 (over 600 today, though I retired a few years ago - my own was still a Gen 1 when I retired). At first, I didn't like ECO mode except for starting off in snow/ice. Once I got my own Gen 3 in 2012 though, I quickly developed a preference for ECO mode, which has stayed with me ever since, including on my Gen 4 Prius and on test drives of other Hybrids including an extended drive of the Gen 5 RAV4, of which I'm expecting mine to arrive next month. It's nice to have the choice even if many only use one of them. They have one thing in common - the all start at creep and give full power when floored. It's how far you have to press the pedal to achieve a given level of power in between that changes. I wouldn't say it's harder in ECO, just requires a longer pedal travel. I use NORMAL mode on a few occasions when I'm changing lanes in busy dual carriageway traffic as I use the Adaptive Cruise Control a lot and use resume to let it manage much of my acceleration up to speed. Unlike the 'ordinary' CC in previous Toyota Hybrids, in the Gen 4 Prius and other recent Hybrids like the new RAV4 and the C-HR, the rate of acceleration under CC varies according to the mode selected. In ECO mode it's quite gentle, and would be inconsiderate in heavy traffic, especially when changing lanes to I switch to NORMAL or even PWR in such circumstances. On the odd occasion someone else drives my car I put it in NORMAL unless they are used to Hybrids. Some other Hybrids do have 'real' gearboxes and some have dual clutch systems (I'd hate to pay for repairs to one of those!) or torque converts. Until recently most Honda Hybrids had 'real' CVT gearboxes (with belts and pulley inside), but behaved exactly like the Prius Hybrid system in response to accelerator use.
  10. 2 points
    Wow! I certainly did not expect that response. I thought I would be the odd one (wife has always said I am odd one 😄). I feel quiet normal now.😎
  11. 2 points
    May I try to clarify a few things? Hybrids (basic ones that can't plug it) don't have any worries about the HV (big, High Voltage traction) battery going flat, it's just a store for spare energy to smooth out extra power requirement when the petrol engine on it's own isn't quite enough and to receive 'free' energy from slowing with the accelerator released or while braking. The engines tend to be de-tuned for efficiency and low emissions, the power shortfall being made up by the electric motors helping. A number of manufacturers have coined the term "Self Charging Hybrids" for these, presumably to distinguish them from Plug-in Hybrids and emphasise that not only do you not need to charge them from the main, you can't. Plug-In Hybrids that started to appear around 2012 such as the Plug-in Prius and Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV work just like ordinary Hybrids, and could be used without ever plugging in, but work best if plugged in whenever possible, and especially for people for whom most journeys will be within or almost within it electric only range. They typically only have 20-30 mile range on Battery alone (the first Prius Plug-in was only 9-12 miles), but for some people (me included), they can work quite well, while still being able to tackle long journeys with no inconvenience or repeated charging. Once the battery's electric only range is used up the car then behaves like a normal petrol Hybrid, using a small part of the battery reserved for basic Hybrid operation. Plug-in Hybrids can often do 500-600 miles on a full petrol tank in addition to any electric only driving. So far, the HV batteries of both types seem for be far more reliable and last way longer than anyone (except possibly Toyota engineers) expected in the early days. When Hybrids first came out in the UK in late 1999, they cost £15,500 after a government incentive of £1,000. I had a couple of these, the second of which I kept until it was 9 years old with 163,000 miles on the clock. Even though I got only £500 when I sold it, I kept a record of all running costs and it was the cheapest car to own I've ever had, whether calculating by mile, month or year. Part of this was because of reduced maintenance, only one brake disc/pad replacement in this time on two sets of spark plugs,and very little else. My present Hybrid Prius, for example, can fill up with fuel for about £45 at today's unleaded prices, and then do about 600 miles. The depreciation when I trade it next month for another Hybrid is pretty good for a 3 year old car with about 38,000 miles on the clock. The brakes have about 20% wear, my last Prius had used about 25% at 4 years/60,000 when I traded it for this one. Various governments (both parties in the UK, and many across Europe) gave incentives for diesels for some 20 years because under the right circumstances they produced less CO2 than petrol cars, and CO2 was the big news during most of that time. Unfortunately they were vastly worse for other emissions (NOx especially) which had more immediate impact on health, and governments' own scientific advisers warming of this time bomb fell on deaf ears until too late. Sadly, many people who did mostly short journeys bought diesels because of the Excise Duty advantages, but their type of use meant that many such users got worse mpg than a comparable petrol car, produced even more NOx gases and often had major repair bills because their EGR valves and Particulate Filters didn't get hot enough to clear the waste and clogged up, in extreme cases wrecking complete engines. More recent diesel cars have much better harmful emission performance, but not until they warm up, so they still don't suit low mileage motorists, but can be very good for higher mileage use especially when towing substantial weights. EVs (pure Electric Vehicles) on the other hand still get a subsidy, but smaller than before, and are still expensive even with it. According the this article, the AA polled more than 19,000 motorists and "35% thought the premium commanded by electric vehicles (EVs) was too high". I would have like to gone electric, but lack of a spare wheel is another issue for me. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/third-of-drivers-wont-go-electric-until-prices-fall-study-shows/ar-AABkQQk?ocid=spartanntp
  12. 2 points
    Does the car break function correctly? I guess you just lost the ABS option, so in case of hard breaking, the wheels will lock. According to what you say, the car can be driven just fine, you just dont have the ABS to prevent wheels from locking in case of some hard braking.
  13. 2 points
    Hmmm, I'm no expert, so casting around for other ideas.... so, if not the wheel bearings (you've done well, replacing them all), then a worn CV joint? A worn joint somewhere in the suspension? Seeing another of your posts, the car's done quite a mileage - is it possible the engine's dropped, and the rumble noise is the engine sitting on a failed engine mounting, and the engine vibration is being transmitted through the body? I assume the exhaust's not so close to the bodywork that there's contact when the engine moves slightly. Whatever the fault, I'd be reluctant to do more work until confident I'd identified the problem. Has the rumble slowly crept up, or did it seem to appear after some work had been done on the car? Never easy to identify, with having tyre noise, which can get worse as the tyres wear. OldCodger is very knowledgable with having a 1.6 Corolla, and I expect he'll have some wise words for you, Hopefully he'll be along soon ☺️
  14. 2 points
    I ordered my 2019 RAV4 Hybrid Excel on 28th February. The dealer said recently that I would be available 10th to 15th June. While I was talking to Toyota CS about a package problem on their web site I asked if they could give me an update and they said that my car is on a boat on its way from Japan with arrival in the UK on the 23rd May, along with many other RAV4s I would guess.
  15. 2 points
    Now up to 15 years in the UK - https://www.toyota.co.uk/owners/warranty/toyota-warranty
  16. 2 points
    I took delivery of my AWD Excel last Friday. It is Silver Blade with Black upholstery and I can confirm that the headlining and pillars are light grey. All my initial impressions are very positive.
  17. 1 point
    Remove the mechanical key from the fob. Stick a flat bladed screwdriver in the hole that the mechanical key came out of and twist to separate the two halves. Replace the CR2032 battery. Push the two halves back together. Insert the mechanical key. Done. This was on page 568 of my manual in the Electronic Key Battery section.
  18. 1 point
    Hi guys Greetings from Estonia. I have a 1987 mod Toyota Corolla AE80 with only 55k miles on the clock Currently doing bodyworks on her Running on BC coilovers, full polybushings set
  19. 1 point
    They look alright, look forward to more updates 😄
  20. 1 point
    Yeah there’s not may around in original condition good job I work for Toyota so original parts 😂
  21. 1 point
    Stick with your own part number, unless you have extra $$ to do experimenting. I think you would get a better price if you would contact some wreckers and ask for a price, instead of ebay and etc.
  22. 1 point
    If you make sure the climate control is off when you start the car it is more likely to stay in EV mode. My habit is to switch the climate control off when I go into the garage.
  23. 1 point
    Don't know but I would imagine production/demand/marketing. 4WD Prius became available in the Japanese market only in 2015. It became available in N. America in 2018.
  24. 1 point
    Hi Aaron, how did you block the grill. Any chance of phots? And what sort of benefits?
  25. 1 point
    Also. pressing the power button 3 times in succession can cause emergency shutdown too. I'm not certain, but it might be that once done you have to stop and the the transmission into (P)ark before you can start again - which could be a problem on a motorway or similar.
  26. 1 point
    This is from my 07 Auris user manual which also has smart entry and start system, so i presume the same rule applies to your model. It would be best to get an owners manual for your own model, and to verify. Have you considered getting some kind of protective cover for the button, like this below, but maybe in transparent option (if one such exists) ? The cover below is for Mustang, but maybe can be cut down and modified for your car, and maybe repainted black so it does not attract her (they dont sell any color except red)
  27. 1 point
    Not too sure why it would damage the car, perhaps someone else could confirm, but I've used it whilst moving to accelerate past a slow moving vehicle, more quickly than just putting foot down, switching back afterwards. Most often, though, it's engaged whilst stationary - waiting. Leave it for another confirmation....
  28. 1 point
    It could be, the controls - especially accelerator become more responsive to foot pressure.
  29. 1 point
    16 volts is definitely to high and will result in gassing of the cells (and possible venting of electrolyte which could be what are are seeing). The voltage on an older car with non ECU managed charging may briefly approach 15 volts (or even a little more) on a very cold winter start but should then reduce over a minute or so to no more than around 14.8. When very hot the charging voltage can be around 13.5. There may not seem much difference between all those voltages but they make a massive difference to how the battery behaves. The alternator should maintain the voltage to at least 13 volts or more under normal loading at idle (lights, wipers etc). When the car is left locked the current draw should be minimal, perhaps no more than 10 to 20 milliamps. Remember you should be able to leave a fully charged battery on the car for several weeks and still have it start first time.
  30. 1 point
    I have just checked on our car, this car had WD40 sprayed all over the fuse box when it was almost new (wifey's car), so corrosion ought not to be an issue. Those fuses are stuck firm, if I was to use any more force then I would be in the realms of cracking the covers. So I've left them as they are. The Haynes manual (actually one for the next model) offers no advice at all. I think the white plastic bit stays put. I'd completely forgotten there was an alternator fuse on this car. As Furtula mentions, in these circumstances, I would disconnect the alternator at the alternator itself. I've just checked the connections, they are much easier than I remember them - just the one nut under the rubber boot, and a multiwire plug. I still think it's worth dropping off the battery earth first, though. I think that when you disconnect the alternator the parasitic drain (4Amps!) will go with it, and the other fuses won't matter. This one has a Bosch alternator, it has never been replaced (124000m).
  31. 1 point
    If you have a copy of the owners manual, it should be shown in there, but i have similar fuses, even more encased in such plastic and in my case it says go to Toyota. If you are down to those 3, and it still looks to be the alternator, check if you can disconnect the wires from it, so you don't have to take the fuse out. If after that the drain is gone, i guess a used or reconditioned one should not be that expensive, and should be easy to replace by yourself.
  32. 1 point
    The code you have is actually a copy of the original, which had the source code for V1 leaked. The original one costs couple of times more. Anyway the copy can still do basic code reading and it's what most people want. I think most of basic diagnostics dont work on ABS codes on newer cars, as in cant even read them, let alone try to erase, maybe some safety issues.
  33. 1 point
    Be warned!!! My 12v battery was flat last week but no problem, I thought, because I have a jump start pack in the boot. Unfortunately, the boot wouldn't open because the battery was flat! I called out Toyota Roadside Assistance and they got me going very quickly.
  34. 1 point
    Yes. When you get your battery charged and your meter to hand, set in on the 20v dc range as above. Check the exact voltage with the battery disconnected from the car. As soon as a load is attached, the reading after the decimal point will lower a small amount. It would also be useful to know what voltage reading you get across the battery on the 20volt ac range with the engine running, and also with the engine at 1200 rpm. A second person needed here to open the throttle. If it's not the alternator draining the battery, then there isn't much that could flatten a battery that quickly. A faulty boot light, for example, should stay on for a day with no problems at all. As background, when disconnecting the battery, it is best to disconnect the earth wire first, that way, if your spanner touches the body accidentally, nothing happens. And if you then disconnect the positive terminal, an accidental short to the body etc.with the spanner does nothing I don't think that disconnecting the fuses will highlight anything, so it might be worth starting with disconnecting the alternator, which has bolt-on wires, if I remember. If you want to disconnect these then you must disconnect the battery first, if not done already, to avoid the (very real!) chance of an accidental short. And the disconnected wires should be insulated to prevent them touching any part of the car if the battery is to be reconnected afterwards. Perhaps an old glove or very thick bag cable-tied over the top of them??? If you intend pulling fuses then don't forget to photo the fuse layout before you start. It is easy to put your meter onto the dc current range and fit it in series with the connection to the battery to help fault find. But this carries a greater chance of damaging the car or meter if you then try to measure a voltage with the meter still set to the current setting. It's easily done. So I'd avoid doing that until you become familiar with the meter. On the 'current' setting the meter probes are effectively a shorting wire! If you do use the current reading on the meter, then an acceptable drain with everything off should be less than 40mA. If you post back here what the voltage drop/difference is with or without the alternator connected, that might be meaningful as well. HTH
  35. 1 point
    Dynamic ordered beginning of March, dealers just advised it will be mid-August 2019.
  36. 1 point
    Tried ECO and POWER with my first Prius, Gen 3, in 2010 when I first got it, didn't like the dead feel of the pedal in ECO and the fidgety pedal in POWER, neither made any difference to mpg so I have always used normal since then, Gen 3, Prius+ and now Gen 4. TBH, I can't see the point of either of those buttons now, you soon adapt to the driving style that gives best mpg in normal mode, like getting used to the biting point of the clutch on a manual car.
  37. 1 point
    Same here, since around 6 months ago I only drive in normal mode, but before that been an eco driver for years . I find it more comfortable to drive in normal as does not require to press the accelerator hard to get the car going, especially when joining the traffic flow on motorways, I do 200-300 miles every day mostly motorway driving, can’t imagine going back to eco mode. Fuel consumption same, you are right all depends how gentle you play with the pedals . Eco mode only makes accelerator pedal harder to press, normal is normal and power is more sensitive pedal , no more or less power.
  38. 1 point
    45 litres should be good for 600 miles. Obviously depends on how you drive, less if you do lots of high speed MWay, and the weather plays a big part. Winter you will get less mpg, summer more.
  39. 1 point
    Why not send Karim at TCEU a personal message to enquire when confirmation will be received - that way you will know where you stand.
  40. 1 point
    Yes, now they'll have to sell them at the real price 🤷‍♂️
  41. 1 point
    Had a response back from my dealer. They've looked into the supply chain, and said they're not available for them to purchase at present. Although my mudflaps came from the Canada plant today. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  42. 1 point
    Don't think a tow bar is needed - have a look at the first post of the following:
  43. 1 point
    Gerg. No prior warnings engine water pump was failing. First I knew was during the very hot weather last year (could have been on its way out for a while). After about ten minutes driving from cold the check engine warning light would come on, then a few minutes later the car would shut down completely - quite scary as the engine would be off, no hybrid electric motor power and worst of all no power steering ! After a 30 second wait the car could be powered on and driven but only for a minute or so before shutting down again. Unfortunately this coincided with a failing 12v battery (again no warning it was failing) so after a few restarts it needed a jump to get going. During this time there were 3 failed attempts in a row to go into ready mode and so the car shut down completely and could only be restarted after towing to Toyota for a reset. Before going to Toyota I bought an OBD scanner and it showed a water pump fault, however Toyota said it was a false reading due to the bad 12v battery - they changed the battery, cleared the codes and said the car was running fine. Dissapointingly they didn't go for a long enough test drive to get the car up to temperature - just went round the car park ! So after I collected the car I got no more than a mile from the garage before the same issues happened again. Fuming I went straight back to the garage to be informed they hadn't checked the pump despite there being an error code because they presumed the battery change had fixed it ! Total cost if not under warranty would have been about £700, £600 for the pump (EXACT same part was £350 from the eurocarparts store next door!), £100 labour to fit and about £20 for coolant. BTW it's an electric water pump not mechanical. Oh, and the battery cost me £120 despite me qouting Toyotas fixed price, because apparantly it doesn't apply to hybrids !!! There were no warning lights or messages on the dash about engine temperature or overheating, I thought there was a 'check coolant' or 'temperature' warning ? The only light that came on was the engine maintainance one. After it cut out there was a check hybrid system message displayed - very helpful and informative !!
  44. 1 point
    Bonded windscreens have a band of black paint (called the frit band) around them to provide a good adhesive bond between the screen and the vehicle body. Without the frit band the bond between the adhesive and glass wouldn't be strong enough. Screen manufacturers often shade the frit band - graduating the solid coat using dots (the 'bobbles' mentioned). Often the frit band is extended down behind and to the sides the rear view mirror, to reduce glare from outside and to fill any gaps left by the sunvisors. On some cars the frit band along the lower edge of the screen is used to hide the view of external components from inside (eg wipers when parked) or to disguise dashboard panel gaps from outside.
  45. 1 point
    Until relatively recently, all Toyota and Lexus Hybrids were stated by the manufacturer to be unsuitable for towing because of concerns about overheating the Hybrid components, especially the HV battery and Inverter. In the early days they were probably worried about breaking the Power Split Device, but that has proved bullet proof of 22 years since the first Prius came out. The battery has an air cooling system (the vent under the rear seat on most cars) which also sucks in cabin heat when it's cold to help warm up the battery. The Inverter has a separate water cooling system. Heat management (along with limiting the maximum power flowing into, out of and through them plus limiting SoC of the battery) of these two components have been key to their longevity, which confounded the early naysayers. Some people have towed small trailers without problems, but it probably wouldn't help if you needed warranty repairs on the Hybrid system if they found a tow bar had been fitted. Some more recent Hybrids, like the Gen 4 Prius and the RAV4 are certified to tow, in the case of the latter, a much higher weight on 4WD models than the Front Wheel Drive versions. I believe the Lexus RX can tow too, but that has a much beefier main Motor/Generator (MG) which is mated to a 3½ Litre V6 petrol engine and also has an extra MG on the rear axle to give 4WD (as does the 4WD RAV4). The limo sized Lexus LS saloon may be able to tow too, with it's leviathan 4WD Hybrid System which until the latest model included a 5 Litre V8. It could propel the 2½ ton beast to 60 mph in about 5½ seconds, but I somehow think few people would see that as an ideal tow car. I was lent one (worth nearly £100k!) for a couple of days a few years ago and it was very entertaining, but driven sensibly was amazingly docile and managed around 30 mpg (computed) with such treatment. A brief exploring of the performance saw that figure plummet though. It had some amazing toys too.
  46. 1 point
    Like I say, 8 bars lit doesn't mean full - at least, not straight away. Maybe the Yaris is different, but on Prius 1.5 & 1.8 Hybrids I've driven, the very few times I've experienced a truly maxed battery is after more like 3-4 miles on a 20% gradient. I never experienced it at all for over 3 years and some 70,000 miles until a trip to Scotland. Once the battery maxes out, on hitting level ground it behaves like a true EV as the system tries very hard to make some room for more regenerated power. I wish I could find it now, but some years ago someone published a great colour diagram showing the charge levels for each bar - there was some overlap, and the gauge would change at a different point depending on whether the SoC (State of Charge) was increasing or decreasing, and not all bars cover the same range. IIRC, bars 2 and 8 cover a bigger band than any others.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Left side looks like a mount for a standard trailer connector, so yes probably a bike carrier.
  49. 1 point
    Hi, Have you tried your local Toyota dealer to see if they have any reference to them ? If no one else comes in, perhaps PM Kingo a forum member and Toyota dealer who may have more info on the older models https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/profile/34014-parts-king/
  50. 1 point
    This is what I plan to do with my 55 plate E12. It is fully serviced and has a low mileage (23k) so plan to keep it for a long period. It's just coming up to its first MOT which will be the first I've had done on a car for a very long time. I'm getting to the point now where I no longer want to keep burning money every 2 to 3 years just to get a new one. It helps that I really like my car too. The only issue for me now is whether to fork out £400 for the extended warranty! Don't spend £400 on extended warranty. Ask yourself what would have to go wrong to justify £400. Not much. Save the money and think only of an issue if something does (which it won't if you look after your car) Extended warranties in any form are a complete waste of money. Insurance companies that offer these know they are a no brainer to make money for themselves and the chances are they will find a reason not to pay out if you have to make a claim. Think no more of it and hold onto the £400. Totally Agree, stick the £400 in the bank, the chance of a major mechanical failure that the warranty will cover are small. I would not be saying this if we were on a FIAT,Citroen,Peugeot,Renault etc Forum

  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up