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  1. 18 points
    The symptoms. The MPG is disgraceful this time last year we was averaging no less than 38mpg over a tank and around 42-45mpg when driven on a run with cruise control set at 70mph. Over Christmas we did approx 1500miles and have managed best on a run +4oc 31mpg driving with cruise control set at 70mph, when it was cold we was down to 21mpg and have now risen to around 30mpg driving like your gran going to church. These figures are a long way short of the figures that Toyota quote and of what we was achieving this time last year with similar temperatures, it may be worth noting the car makes a pinking sound at around 1800-2300rpm if you put your foot down and there is a small delay / flat spot in throttle response (not turbo lag) when you press the accelerator, I suspect this is the fly by wire throttle system but is it supposed to have a delay? How to clean, I did have to borrow a few pictures as I had cleaned mine by the time I made this thread. 1. Remove the engine cover, this just pulls up and unclips. 2. Now you can see the EGR Valve, you will need a 12mm socket, Ratchet and extension to remove this. 3. Remove these 2 x bolts 1st for the pipe above the EGR valve. 4. Now undo the other 4 x 12mm nuts and bolts from the EGR valve and unplug this from the wiring loom, this can now be removed. 5. This is now what you will find. Dirty manifold with 2 x blocked breathing holes. Dirty EGR valve with restricted air flow. 6. I cleaned these using an old toothbrush, small screw driver, carburettor cleaner, old cloth and a dyson cleaner to suck the muck out. Try to scrape and brush out the thick carbon then use the carburettor cleaner to clean the finish this off. Now once all this is cleaned out just simply refit, This took me a total of 15 minutes so I assure you this is very easy. The results This will vary for everyone but in my experience I did a 360mile round trip the next day with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, going there (more downhill) the roads where very very wet with poor visibility and approx 7oc and we averaged 41.1MPG by the time we got there. When we come home with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, slightly uphill most of the way the roads where dry and approx 3oc the average MPG had dropped to 40.0. When I filled up we got 37.4litres in the tank which I rounded up to 38 and worked out at 43MPG (I always brim the tank). This is now showing a big improvement / approx 20% for a 15minute job of cleaning the EGR valve. I will also note the slight flat spots in throttle response are a lot less than before. I would like to say a big thank you to cabcurtains for bringing the EGR valve to my attention and to twingo69 as I borrowed a few pictures from his thread to make this guide. UPDATE Ok it has been nearly 5 months and around 4k since I did this do this morning I thought I would check the EGR valve. To be honest the manifold was very very clean maybe a small less than 1mm coating of carbon and the EGR valve had a little more, I did clean this again while it was removed but in my opinion looking at what I seen today I would recommend cleaning this around every 12months or 10k. UPDATE Well over the next 12 months the MPG just continued to drop, Toyota claimed there was no problems with the car but by Feb 11 we could only manage 28-32MPG at best. I had also noticed the car had started to do a lot of DPF recycle burns and suspect the DPF was maybe on its way out, we had no warrenty left on the car so had a shop around and exchanged for a 5 month old 500 mile CRZ. What can I say but for sure the CRZ is one of the best cars we ever owned and was fantastic on fuel (49MPG average for every turn of the key over 9 months and 9000 miles) but due to the birth of Lewis we needed a bigger car so exchanged this for a CTR (FN2), I will say that so far over 7000 miles this has returned 29MPG for us which puts a quicker petrol car in the same area as the T180 when we traded this in. What never made sence was when we first bought the T180 we could get 40-44MPG no problem then at around 30'000 miles the MPG just started to drop while nothing really changed, we never found a cure for this or a fault but for sure this is problem and Toyota must know about this because they dropped the 2.2 and 2.0 Auris diesel cars and have now agreed to use BMW diesel engines from 2013. Why the worlds largest car manufacturer would need to use a BMW diesel engine is beyond me unless it shows they are struggling to get a modern diesel to be clean and efficient while being very driveable.
  2. 9 points
    On the Eleventh hour of the Eleventh hour of the Eleventh day, the guns fell silent ... ... ... They went with songs to the battle, they were young. Straight of limb, true of eyes, steady and aglow. They were staunch to the end against odds uncounted, They fell with their faces to the foe. They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old: Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning, We will remember them. They mingle not with their laughing comrades again; They sit no more at familiar tables of home; They have no lot in our labour of the day-time; They sleep beyond England's foam.
  3. 9 points
    This is an American article on which vehicles are traded in for the Nissan Leaf. Over there it is the Toyota Prius, where 18% of all trades in for a Leaf were Prii. http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1067548_which-cars-are-getting-traded-in-for-electric-cars-we-find-out So I'm curious what the figures are over here? I'm wondering if it would be similar or at least is the Prius the top trade in. If it is, Toyota might want to reassess the ridiculous price of their forthcoming PHEV Prius as customers don't appear loyal to the brand as such, but rather the early adoptor nature of the new technology. I've got a Prius and am tempted for a Leaf. I liked the idea of the PHEV Prius, but £31,000!!! lol not a chance. What would you get if you were to replace your Prius - a PHEV Prius, a Leaf or the Ampera?
  4. 8 points
    I am getting fed up of the number of posts where people are bragging about driving at speeds well in excess of the speed limit. None of this "private road/race track nudge nudge wink wink" crap either. The next person to make a post of this nature will be banned. No warning, no message to ask you not to post things like that just straight to a ban. If you want to post about your exploits breaking the law then please also include your full name, address, car reg and where/when you broke the speed limit so that TOC can pass it on to your local Police so that you can be removed from our roads as well as our forums!
  5. 8 points
    Hi, I had the same problem. Poor start with cold day, engine sometimes only puff-puff and stall (blue-white smoke). In last three years I changed glow plugs, battery, overhaul fuel pump, bought new injectors, bought fuel warmer etc. But everything without effect. Now I found where is problem. If you have a small SCV valve on fuel pump (called Compact SCV) try this home made diagnostic: warm up SCV valve before starting in cold day using hot water or hot airgun (about 80°C). When engine start for first time, piston in SCV valve is seized (rather chill diminishes tolerance and piston seized). Denso prepare new version of SCV valve, please wait few days, I prepare complete guide with pictures, order numbers and Denso service manual. P.S. I´m sorry for my english, because I´m from Czech Republic :-) Edit: 6.2.2013 - Here is part number: new one - 0422626020 (replace old 042260L030) After replace SCV, you must make Supply Pump Initialization Procedure - see enclosed Denso Repair Manual, Repair Section/2.Diagnostic Overview/2-113 to 2-115. I make this process with Toyota IT II (Intelligent Tester), I think that this way is better than connecting terminals TC and CG.. After replacing SCV during calibration were two random errors. Both of these errors concerned Air Mass sensor and Intake Air Temperature. I erased all this errors three times during calibration. Now is everything OK. Torque for SCV bolts is 6,9Nm first, 10,8Nm second. DENSO CR SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
  6. 7 points
    Toyota 1N Engine Repair Manual 1N Engine Manual.zip
  7. 7 points
    This guide is wriiten to hopefully answer most of the often asked questions about the 2AD 2.2 Diesel engine and its problems. The Symptoms Owners complain of the following; Excessive oil consumption. Coolant Water being blown out of the expansion tank and the colour sometimes turning darker in colour. Excessive Fuel consumption. Blocked or heavily sooted EGR valves And of course cars going into limp mode or displaying fault codes relating to this engines issues. Toyotas Answer. Well Toyota really stepped up to the plate and offered an extended warranty which can be found in the following text taken from the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) "AD Engine Out of Warranty Guidelines (0730J) We are pleased to advise that we have received more formalised guidelines from TME for the handling of AD engine problems on out of warranty vehicles. The coverage and processes are summarised below. Conditions Covered 1) Oil consumption worse than 0.5 litre per 621 miles (1,000 km) 2) Overheating & Head Gasket failure due to carbon deposits on the pistons For all other out of warranty conditions related to AD engine problems, where the customer complaint can be directly linked to a “carbon clogging” concern, i.e. EGR Valve, DPNR, 5th Injector, EGR Cooler, blocked manifold, etc., we would accept this as being linked to an oil consumption condition. Vehicles Covered Those vehicles fitted with AD diesel engines; ��Avensis with 1AD or 2AD (Prod. Date: Apr 2005 to Feb 2009) ��RAV4 with 2AD (Prod. Date: Jul 2005 to Dec 2008) ��Auris with 1AD or 2AD (Prod. Date: Sep 2006 to Sep 2009) ��Verso with 2AD (Prod. Date: Apr 2005 to Nov 2008) Age / Mileage Covered These guidelines cover vehicles up to 7 years old and 111,846 miles (180,000 km), whichever the sooner. This is conditional on there being a retail customer complaint and the vehicle having been reasonably maintained". So what do I do if my car is displaying the above faults? You should take Your car for inspection to your nearest Toyota Dealers. They will check your oil level and carry out all or any checks required by Toyota and read any stored fault codes. You will then be asked to take the car back to the dealer after approximately 1000 miles and the oil will be checked again to determine if its oil consumption is to great as in the TSB above. So what happens next? If it is deemed You engine is burning too much oil, is sooting the EGR valve or displaying any of the above related faults your engine will be replaced under the extended warranty. What will be replaced? The engine assembly in Toyota terms is a ¾ engine which is basically the whole engine from the sump up to the rocker cover. Up until mid 2011 engines were rebuilt by the Dealer but after this proved too time consuming and sometimes unsuccessful, engines were replaced as a ¾ assembly for economic reasons. Sometimes these replacement engines are reworked or remanufactured engines rebuilt in Japan. Sometimes the engines are brand new. The following will or may be replaced during the procedure. EGR valve. Injectors including the 5th injector. Catalytic convertor. DFP filter (Diesel Particulate Filter). The engine oil of course and the coolant . Air conditioning will be re gassed. The procedure for and during replacement Well I will explain what my experience was...... Once the car was diagnosed and the engine replacement was approved I took the car into the Dealer who kindly supplied me with a free courtesy car. 2 days later I was called and informed my car was ready for collection. I was given a work sheet detailing what had been done and the new engine number. Note: It is the owners responsibility to inform the DVLA of the change. The differences between old and new engine. The new engine is much quieter. Fuel consumption is far better than before. Consider also; If You are having a new engine fitted under warranty, consider having a new clutch assembly fitted while the engine is out. There will normally be no labour charge for this as there is no increased labour as all these parts are stripped out during replacement. It would otherwise cost in the region of £1200 (should it become necessary) for a clutch replacement on a RAV4 but less on an Auris, Avensis or Verso. I hope this answers most of the questions. If I have made any mistakes please PM Me and I will correct.... Charlie.
  8. 7 points
    I had to post these photos of my buddies iQ. He did a full body wrap to advertise his company Armored Ink Tattoo. Just looks amazing. I'll have more information coming soon.
  9. 7 points
    I see neither advertising nor soliciting in Charlies post, his intentions were clearly to seek advice on how best to find a new home for his Rav. The listing of fitted extras was simply a way of giving Rav forum members the tools to best advise him on a sensible asking price for his Rav, IMHO this is neither an attempt to advertise his Rav nor to promote any third party website. Another interesting and well contributed post ruined, this forum will soon need mediators not moderators, needless intervention !
  10. 6 points
    After upgrading my headunit to a Pioneer system last month, http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/157732-Gps-Receiver-Location?#entry1325433 I now have upgraded my speakers with pioneer ones....The ones I fitted are recommened by pioneer to go with my headunit. The tools needed were screwdrivers, stanley knife, crimping or soldiering tools and panel removal tool. Oh and plenty..... So the first thing to do is start popping off all the trim.....The tweeter grill comes off with finger pressure These came off pretty easy with a plastic trim tool. Next you need to undo the three exposed screws.. Then you need to pop the door trim off. They are held in with these. Mine came away pretty easy again, but i do have a trim removal tool just in case. Then i popped out the OEM tweeter and finally the door release mechanism.... And hey presto speaker is now accessible. Next you need to drill out the three rivets holding in the woofer speaker. This is done using a 4mm drill. For those who dont know how to do this, just drill down the centre of the rivet about 2-3mm deep then pull the drill to one side and the head of the rivet will pop off. And then youll have the speaker out of the door..... Install the new speaker you will need an adaptor. I got mine from ebay made by connect2. My pioneer's TS-170ci So now to install. I screwed my adpator to the door first with sealant. Not sure if this is a waste of time or not, but i like to do it to eliminate any vibration and air flow out the sides. I then attach the speaker wires to back of speaker and then screw that to the adaptor with sealant also.... I cut off the OEM speaker plug and wired onto the end spade plugs to fit onto speaker. Next I attached the pioneer Tweeter to the back of the door. And then put eveything back together in reverse order. I now need to break in the speakers before turning volume up to high, but off the bat these sound way better than the oem ones... But saying that, and seeing the size of the oem speakers, I am really suprised at the quality of sound and bass with the toyota speakers with such a small magnet. So much so these are going straight into my wifes R reg corsa..... One thing I would also recommend is that when you are fitting the speaker DO NOT use an electric drill/driver. Screw the speaker in by hand. As its so easy to over tighten and split the plastic adaptor or more importantly, slip of the screw head and puncture your new speaker cone...... Now to do the other 3. Hope this helps anyone thinking about doing a speaker upgrade. P.s. Sorry for the small pics, not sure what happened there.... Edit: I have just finished installing rear speakers. Went fine, just like the fronts but I have to add I thought the rears were 6.5" like the fronts but nope they are 5.1/4" dual cones..... Dual cones, good god, no wonder they sound crap. Anyways, I ordered 2 pairs of pioneers TS-170Ci. Long story short they did fit and the door trim went back on OK, but I did have to make new fitting holes for the speaker adaptors...... Now the sound is 100% better... The bass is much more pronounced.... And less rumble/muddy sound when at high volumes..... I was gonna install a pioneer under the seat sub woofer but I think I'll hold of for now.EDIT: Well I think i've held of long enough........Time to install a underseat subwoofer.... I went for the Kenwood KSC-SW11. Read loads of reviews and this one kept coming up on top for my price bracket. So first, time to remove headunit again. And plug in RCA Phonos and Amp remote trigger (the Blue wire). I then removed the centre console and run these two wires between seats. Then removed glove box and lower panel. And went looking for a 12v+ feed.... I noticed this blanking plug. So unplugged it and noticed what looked like a socket for a relay.. Anway I tested the left prong and it was a 12v feed. But did also notice that the blanking plug was bridging the left and right prong using this..... So I decided to keep this in place and just solder my amp 12v feed to it... Put it back in to the blanking plug... And pushed it back into its position on the fuse box. I have decided to run a 12v Power lead ,and remote trigger, twice the size that is necessary for this amp because, I know that in a few months I will put another one under the other seat. So doing this means the power and trigger is already run and i have no need to disturb the front of the car again. I now run the power wire down between seats along with the previous two. Next I placed the sub under the seat and routed the wires through the carpet to the middle od the centre console framework. I then joined all wires together and tucked them inside the centre console framework. And screwed the earth to the frame. Then put it all back together. I have put the amp controller inside the armrest. Along with all the other wires from the headunit. Until I install the second underseat amp, I have set the headunit sub controls to max and am using the amp controller to adjust and play with the bass. When the second amp is in, I will max out the two amp controllers, tuck and secure them under the seats, then use the headunit to control both amps. In fact a quick look at instructions shows with the controllers removed it will still produce sound with the frequency cut-off set 125Hz and phase set 0 Deg. So right now I am in the burning in period of the amp and speaker. But even when it is set to half way there is a noticeable difference is bass.Now I know this isn't gonna produce earth shattering bass, but it is definately adding more bass to my set up. In fact i'm suprised how much bass it kicks out for such a small unit.It also means I can turn down the bass to the door speakers a little, which reduces clipping or popping...... This was a fun install and I can't wait to add the second one..... Hope this helps anyone, in anyway..... :D
  11. 6 points
    This post is designed to give a basic overview of modern Toyota Diesel engines and their commonly troublesome components: How does a Diesel engine work? Firstly Diesel is not as flammable as Petrol. Diesel engines don’t have spark plugs to ignite the fuel, but to bring about combustion they require heat. If you put your finger over the end of a foot pump and pump it, your finger will become hot. This is due to compression of the air trapped inside the pump (the air molecules have less space to move about and collide with each other more frequently causing energy to be given off in the form of heat). The same thing happens in a diesel engine: as the piston moves upwards, the air trapped inside is compressed, causing it to heat up (the temperature reached is circa 400 degrees C). Just before the piston reaches the top of its' stroke, the pump and injectors spray a very fine mist of diesel into the piston chamber. The intense heat of the trapped air in the piston causes the diesel to ignite, forcing the piston down and producing the power stroke which goes through the engine via the gearbox / wheels etc etc and off you go. What are Glow Plugs? When internal sensors detect that the core of the engine block has reached a certain designated temperature, or when a certain amount of time elapses, the glowplug relay switches off the "wait-to-start" light. A pre-heating cycle usually lasts for 2 to 5 seconds. The driver then turns the key to the "start" position. The glowplug relay switches off the glowplugs after the engine is running. In some newer cars, glow plugs continue to operate for up to 180 seconds after engine start to keep the engine within emissions regulations, as combustion efficiency is greatly reduced when the engine is very cold. Link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug As glow plugs wear out the vehicle will be more difficult to start, run poorly and produce a white/bluey smoke. Glow Plugs are a reasonably cheap to replace. What is D4D? D4D is Toyota’s version of Common Rail Diesel. The term "common rail" refers to the fact that all of the fuel injectors are supplied by a common fuel rail which is nothing more than a pressure accumulator where the fuel is stored at high pressure. This accumulator supplies multiple fuel injectors with high pressure fuel. Modern common rail systems, are governed by an engine control unit (ECU) which opens each injector electronically rather than mechanically. What are Injectors? Fuel injectors are a key part of modern automotive systems, as they're responsible for getting fuel into the engine in a precise, orderly and carefully engineered pattern. Unfortunately, the conditions we drive in are not ideal. Pollution is in the air, and fuel can be contaminated with water, dirt particles and other debris. Regularly changing your fuel filter (according to change interval in your service book) will help keep debris from circulating. You can also add fuel injector cleaner to your fuel tank, which may help solve running issues. Doing this at regular intervals of 10,000 miles or so might provide more cleansing than your engine actually needs, but it shouldn’t harm the system. Injector Cleaner can't improve your car beyond its original factory spec. When injectors fail there are generally two approaches to repair, take the vehicle to a main dealer and have the whole set (£1000+) replaced or find a diesel specialist who may be able to replace or repair individual injectors (circa £250 each) after testing. Fuel Injector problem symptoms include, poor starting, rough running, loss of power, black or white smoke. It is generally known that injectors will need attention after 100,000 miles. What is a Turbo? Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the turbocharging. When Turbo’s are failing they will typically cause the car to have a loss of power, excessive smoke and in some cases a high pitched whine. Turbo’s can often be repaired bya turbo specialists or replaced with a new unit, obviously a repair is cheaper. What is an SCV? SCV's (Suction Control Valves) are used in Common Rail diesel engines to control the pressure of the fuel in the accumulator. The pressure is varied by the ECU by controlling how much fuel the pump feeds into the accumulator, replacing the fuel as it is delivered into the engine by the injectors. Low pressure for the injectors at idle, high pressure at maximum power. Electrically operated, SCVs can need to open and close at up to 200 times per second and if they stick or fail to open properly then poor running, starting and power loss can occur. Sticking when hot is often cited as a cause of hot starting problems. D4D pumps may have one or two of these valves depending on the type of pump fitted, this is important when ordering the correct parts. Vehicles commonly affected by this have the 1CD-FTV 2.0 D4D Engine 2000-2005, found on RAV4/Avensis/Corolla built between these dates. This article SCV's on the RAV4 Forum provides an overview of the location and parts on a two valve pump. These parts are typically £250 to replace + fitting if required. What is an EGR Valve? Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is a nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions reduction technique used in modern engines, EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. After a while the gases containing dirty, sooty carbons start to cover and coat the intake area and valves causing the air to fuel ratio to become unbalanced thus resulting in more black smoke being emitted from the exhaust. This black smoke is then drawn back into the air intake via the EGR valve. A vicious cycle then starts with the engine producing more smoke and sootier carbons being drawn into the intake, a major problem. Symptoms of EGR issues include lack of power, engine hesitancy and then a surge of power followed by black sooty smoke. A fall in fuel economy may also occur. On most Toyota engines the valve is easily removed and cleaned, a dealer will charge an hours labour to do the same job. If the valve fails it will cost around £300 to be supplied and fitted by Mr T. If the vehicle is used continually then carbon clogging could eventually lead to head gasket failure on AD engines, please review the attached document to see if your car has one of these engines.AD Head Gaskets.pdf A simple method of trying to keep the EGR valve clean is to drive the vehicle (once warm) hard by bringing the revs near to the red line, this will result in black soot leaving the exhaust, continue this until the soot no longer appears. This should be a weekly event. This is also known as an Italian Tune Up. Personally as my 2.2 D4D Verso is out of warranty i clean the EGR every 10k, this a superb guide http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=106241 What is D-Cat? D-CAT (Diesel Clean Advanced Technology) is Toyota’s version of a diesel particulate filter (DPF) which is a device designed to remove soot from the exhaust gas of a diesel engine. The soot created by the engine is burnt off during the regeneration process, this process uses fuel which is added by an additional injector, this additional fuel usage reduces MPG when compared with vehicles that dont have a DPF. The regeneration process occurs at road speeds higher than can generally be attained during urban usage ,vehicles driven exclusively at low speeds in urban traffic will require periodic trips at higher speeds to clean out the DPF. On cars with a very high sixth gear the engine revs may be too low to generate sufficient exhaust temperature for regeneration. Occasional harder driving in lower gears should be sufficient to burn off the soot in such cases. With this type of DPF regeneration will be initiated by the ECU every 300 miles or so depending on vehicle use and will take 10 to 15 minutes at 40MPH+ to complete. You shouldn't notice anything other than perhaps a puff of white smoke from the exhaust when the process is completed. If the DPF doesn’t regenerate properly eventually a warning light will be displayed and the vehicle should be taken to a main dealer. Continued usage past this point may destroy the DPF completely so it must be replaced, this will be very expensive (£1000+). DPF Continued If your car is type approved and registered after the date below it will have a DPF to meet the EU Emissions, things can get very complicated here. Vehicles are often built long before being registered, so you could purchase a 2010 car that was a 2009 model. Its important to ask what model year your car is and which emission standard it meets. Its possible to be driving a 10/60 or even an 11 Reg thats not Euro 5 (V) if the car was built long before being registered. Euro 5 (V) Emissions Standard Commenced - September 2009 If you only drive low mileages in town do not buy a Diesel with a DPF. A Petrol is more suitable. Modern Diesels are very complex machines, following manufacturer servicing guidelines is essential as is using the correct oils, fluids and drivers checking levels frequently. The issues mentioned above are not restricted to Toyota's, all manufacturers have these issues and probably more of them. Hopefully this is useful to people Please PM me if any of this requires amending.
  12. 6 points
    OK guys, I prefer having an independent set myself but joking aside here is a second stab at the pros list... OEM Nav Pros O-1. Less likely to have a breakin as the unit is built in so cannot easily be removed by tea leafs. O-2. Don't have to fiddle around with physically setting it up before you drive away - less hassle and delay. O-3. No need to clean the windscreen to avoid tell tale sucker marks (see 1 above) O-4. Won't fall off the windscreen when you accelerate or corner hard O-5. Integrates to HUD, displaying directions for you in an easy to see format. O-6. Don't have to recharge it from the 12V socket, leaving the socket free for the 101 other things you use it for (electronic hand warmers anybody? ) O-7. Doesn't take up windscreen space, so more room for your fluffy Garfields. Or better visibility. You chose. Independent Set Pros I-1. Can use it in any car you want. I-2. A lot cheaper to buy. I-3. A lot cheaper to keep up to date. (Is it? ) I-4. Wider choice of devices so you can find something you really like rather than having to put up with just one user interface that might be annoying you. I-5. Wider choice of voicemappings, settings. I-6. When mounted it is in line of sight. You don't have to look down so far to see it. So improved safety and convenience. For different people, the relative values of the above will mean a different choice. I am sure others can add things to the starter for 13 above. R04drunner1 (P.S. if you like this, please show it some love by +1. Reputation still -7, don't know why!?)
  13. 6 points
    You need the ER300 Ecopia which is the low rolling resistance version of the ER300's. It will make a 5 mpg difference and without it you'll be lucky to get over mid 50's mpg. Also, check the garage haven't under inflated the tyres - garages can often just pump them to 30 psi rather than what they should be. When I've changed tyres (always use llr tyres) I don't find they need much bedding in to get the same economy as previouly. They may have disconnected the 12v when changing the water pump and this may have reset your cars computer which will take a few miles for it to learn the optimum settings for best economy. See how it goes but my money is on not having Ecopia llr tyres.
  14. 6 points
    How to clean, I did have to borrow a few pictures as I had cleaned mine by the time I made this thread. 1. Remove the engine cover, this just pulls up and unclips. 2. Now you can see the EGR Valve, you will need a 12mm socket, Ratchet and extension to remove this. 3. Remove these 2 x bolts 1st for the pipe above the EGR valve. 4. Now undo the other 4 x 12mm nuts and bolts from the EGR valve and unplug this from the wiring loom, this can now be removed. 5. This is now what you will find. Dirty manifold with 2 x blocked breathing holes. Dirty EGR valve with restricted air flow. 6. I cleaned these using an old toothbrush, small screw driver, carburettor cleaner, old cloth and a dyson cleaner to suck the muck out. Try to scrape and brush out the thick carbon then use the carburettor cleaner to clean the finish this off. Now once all this is cleaned out just simply refit, This took me a total of 15 minutes so I assure you this is very easy. The results This will vary for everyone but in my experience I did a 360mile round trip the next day with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, going there (more downhill) the roads where very very wet with poor visibility and approx 7oc and we averaged 41.1MPG by the time we got there. When we come home with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, slightly uphill most of the way the roads where dry and approx 3oc the average MPG had dropped to 40.0. When I filled up we got 37.4litres in the tank which I rounded up to 38 and worked out at 43MPG (I always brim the tank). This is now showing a big improvement / approx 20% for a 15minute job of cleaning the EGR valve. I will also note the slight flat spots in throttle response are a lot less than before. I would like to say a big thank you to cabcurtains for bringing the EGR valve to my attention and to twingo69 as I borrowed a few pictures from his thread to make this guide. This guide is only made possible thanks to Rick D4D who has allowed me to host his pics in order to keep this guide for others to use.
  15. 5 points
    THINGS THAT ARE DIFFICULT TO SAY WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK: Indubitably Innovative Preliminary Proliferation Cinnamon THINGS THAT ARE VERY DIFFICULT TO SAY WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK: Specificity British Constitution Passive-aggressive disorder Loquacious Transubstantiate THINGS THAT ARE DOWNRIGHT IMPOSSIBLE TO SAY WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK: Thanks, but I don't want to have sex Nope, no more booze for me Sorry, but you're not really my type Good evening officer, isn't it lovely out tonight
  16. 5 points
    So got around to looking at the old Carina E at the weekend, shes a 1996 1.6 gli (4A-FE) Liftback model - one owner since new, 191000 on the clock, my father parked it up about 5 years ago as he picked up another car and its been growing moss ever since. Charged the battery over night but it wasn't strong enough to get the engine to crank so threw it out and got one from the breaker - stuck it in and she started first time! impressive. The wing mirror had been knocked off before it was parked up and tapped on, so got one on ebay, think it cost £5 - got that put on. So its going to be my new project - needs a few more bits before i consider testing her. Engine management light is on so will try get the code from that and see whats up. Exhaust is blowing - the hole is in end section - anyone know if an exhaust from a Generation 1 Avensis would suit? I saw one at the breakers at the weekend. She will be due a belt after being sat there that long. Also the door rubber on drivers door has broken at the top so will need replacing. Breakers yard again i think. Also i noticed after she ran for a while after warm-up, she seemed to mis-fire, struggled. not cutting out just not running right. Maybe an injector? I see that they can give a bit of trouble. I will do as much as i can myself, but my knowledge is basic enough, e.g. oil, filters, plugs, brakes etc - but wouldn't dream of doing a belt change etc. Interior is immaculate in this car. No pets, kids, smokers etc since new. Paint is red so its faded now. Will read up on cutting/rubbing compounds etc to bring her back. Bonnet however has large patches where the lacquer has lifted to will see if i can get another red one or else paint it. Will post a few pics when i get a chance and also keep progress report on here. Thanks for reading.
  17. 5 points
    Some further observations: Those 14,400 miles have been driven almost entirely on the same route and it is definitely a route which is conducive to hybrid driving. My commute takes me from west Suffolk into north Essex and back. It's a journey of 31-32 miles depending on which route I follow but whichever way I go it's mostly A-road and B-road single carriageway with stretches of stop-start traffic-light town congestion at one end in the morning and at both ends in the evening. There's a couple of miles of dual-carriageway in there as well. The terrain is rolling hills rather than flat but there are only two hills which could be considered steep. The speed limit is also highly variable, with quite a few 30-limit villages and 40-zones. We have had a mild winter this year which will undoubtedly have helped the average significantly; I travel quite early in the morning but have still only seen sub-zero temps on a handful of occasions. The car is also garaged, so I don't have to worry about defrosting/demisting before setting off, which for some people will be a significant drain on economy if they have to leave the engine running. In terms of techniques, the following are what I have found to be successful. Running 40psi tyre pressures all round. I've done this in cars for years to improve steering response and even out tyre wear. It also benefits economy significantly.Constant forward planning to minimise braking e.g. maintaining a substantial gap from the car in front to soak up their binary-throttle speed variations. Acceleration is what knocks mpg. The less you brake, the less you need to accelerate afterwards.Coasting down early to junctions and lower speed limits. In fact, coasting as much as possible using very gentle pressure on the throttle to prevent regeneration. Using Eco mode permanently. This makes the throttle much easier to manage, once you get used to the lack of response. I never touch the EV mode button unless I want to move the car on the drive without starting the ICE. Using aircon all the way through the summer to keep cool as it makes the grand sum of NO difference whatsoever in my experience. However, unless it's really cold in winter I do leave the heater off for the first part of my journey home as I'm stuck dead in traffic and the ICE will just run constantly to provide heat if I switch it on.Using the HUD eco meter to maintain awareness of throttle position and staying away from the Power zone at all times, even when pulling away from stationary. I am patient at junctions when pulling out - I'll wait for a gap which doesn't require me to mash the throttle, unless there are folks waiting behind me. However, I have found that accelerating 'briskly' (i.e. with the eco meter just underneath the Power zone) is better than dragging it up to cruising speed on minimal throttle.Not exceeding 65mph on dual-carriageways and not exceeding 50mph on NSL single-carriageways. The latter is probably the only controversial aspect of my driving as I'm 10mph below the limit and people have to overtake if they wish to pass. However, on my route I can justify it because it is never long before we catch up a lorry or pensioner travelling at <40mph, meaning my responsibility for anyone's delay is temporary. If there's nobody behind me at all, I won't maintain a constant speed but will instead let the terrain have more of a say i.e. letting the speed drop right down when going uphill and letting it run higher when descending. There's nothing radical here at all in my view but equally I fully appreciate that not everyone would be comfortable driving the same way. For me, having bought an economical car, I'm happy to try to get the best out of it by driving economically. Anyway, for my next experiment... I intend to find out just how much of a difference wheels and tyres can make to fuel efficiency. I've been running the standard 17" T-Spirit wheels with Michelin Primacy tyres (C-rated for economy) up until now. However, I've just ordered a set of 15" alloys and will be fitting Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance tyres which are B-rated. As my commute and driving style will remain the same, I should be able to isolate the wheel/tyre impact quite clearly.
  18. 5 points
    Just like to say a big thank you to Tarquin (David) for all his help. With doing my automatic mirrors that are great and my new interior bright light. Cheers David You are a very clever chap Thanks john
  19. 5 points
    Incase you're still undecided………… I came across this….
  20. 5 points
    First of all – it’s worth remembering that this isn’t the first time that Toyota has come up against the issue of heavy oil consumption. In the not too distant past there were significant problems with the VVti petrol engine – particularily the 1.8 litre version as fitted to the likes of the Celica. In the early 2000’s cars fitted with similar engines – such as the Avensis suffered serious problems to such a degree that some owners were bulk buying oil in 25litre drums. There was much denial that a problem existed but eventually Toyota, in a low key way, introduced a 7 year, 112000mile extended warranty against the oil consumption issue. Initially dealers attempted to fit new pistons / rings but after mixed success – moved to fitting new / reconditioned short motors to affected cars. Does this sound familiar to many of you? With petrol engines however, there were few consequential issues – it was really a case of the cost and inconvenience of high oil consumption. Owners often added to their problems by using products claimed to reduce oil consumption and often used the cheapest oil they could find whatever the spec! The cause of the problem resulted from the drive to increase power and efficiency by reducing weight and friction. The understanding is that the oil control ring on the piston was a fairly flimsy item which was subject to excessive wear so with a few thousand miles on the clock – the oil control rings became inefficient and excessive oil got into the combustion chamber. Move on a few years and it appears that Toyota’s oil issue with petrol engines has been sorted but a similar problem raises it’s head for the first time on a diesel – the AD engine fitted to several Toyota models including the Rav4. With a diesel the consequential problems are far more significant than a petrol – including failed head gaskets, blocked EGR systems etc. Toyotas eventual response was exactly the same as previous – a warranty extension to 7 years / 112000 miles. The action level on oil consumption was 0.5litre/1000km as previously. Again Toyota tackled the problem on affected cars by replacing pistons / rings but with mixed results and eventually fitted new / reconditioned short motors. When these engines are stripped – the heavy build up of carbon and degraded oil on the piston crown and cylinder head is pretty obvious. Carbon gets into the ring grooves and there’s evidence of restriction in the drains holes behind the oil control rings. Our choice to resolve the problem is to fit new Kolbenschmidt pistons and rings. Generally it’s possible to fit standard size pistons and glaze bust / cross hatch the bores but ovality can be an issue at high mileage. In this case we’d bore +0.5mm and fit oversize pistons. It’s also possible to re-sleeve the bores – not something I’ve done on this engine. There are other options in terms of piston choice including Toyota parts but Kolbenschmidt are superb pistons but are expensive. For a retail customer – total cost would be around £2000 which would include the work described above, refacing the head, all new gaskets and seals, all new bearings, new timing belt / tensioner / coolant pump, reconditioned oil pump, machine polish crankshaft journals, clean / test injectors, lubricants/ consumables /coolant, ultrasonic cleaning and solvent flush of the block, remove / install engine. The bottom line of all this is that a local engine machine shop can recondition your engine (look for an FER member). It’s not cheap, but worth it if you’ve got a Rav which is otherwise good, and you’d like to keep it – may be a much better option than a p.ex + £2000 tradeup!
  21. 5 points
    Listen folks, I'm not into having a public slanging match with a fellow mod but this subject effects everyone and your opinion will shape the outcome and the future of the club. I sincerely apologise if it seems unprofessional but I think this needs to be aired openly - especially as this thread was posted to labour a point. I will be asking Steve, the forum owner to contact me over weekend.
  22. 5 points
    There is a strong link between DMF / clutch failure and engine failure on some cars but not on the Rav. It's possible to turn over an engine when a cambelt has snapped but it's unusual for all cylinders to be affected. The first check is to see if the camshaft is turning when the crankshaft is turned by hand. This will determine whether the cambelt has failed - belts can fail prematurely due to poor fitting, oil contamination or a poor quality belt. Compression tests on diesels can give misleading results. If the measurement is made via the glow plug hole - the action of the injector can affect the results. Often pipework and adaptors are used to connect a gauge - this can increase the compression volume significantly giving a false low reading.
  23. 5 points
    Loads of tests have been done on brands of oil filters - Google "oil filter comparison". Some filters can have double the filter media area of others for the same application and there can be a vast difference in the quality of the internal bypass valve. Generally car manufacturer brand filters come out well, so it's worth going for the genuine item if possible. The ones to avoid are third division brands, often originating from China, and sold at ridiculously low prices (some cartridge filters can be bought trade for less than £1). Many dealers recognise that service items are readily and widely available elsewhere and, as such, they tend to discount these items to get them to a broadly competitive price. Unfortunately Toyota dealers tend not to be as generous as some others.
  24. 5 points
    Q: I am new to the site but I am unable to edit my profile. How can I edit my profile information? A: As part of spam prevention we have resticted profile editing for members who have never posted on the club. If you have never posted here before and wish to edit your profile then we suggest you make one post on the club and then your profile information will become available. This prevents spammers signing up and adding spam links in their profile. To help keep the forums clean and of good quality we have to take these steps in order to conquer spammers.
  25. 5 points
    From my experience, watch out for initial driver error with some of the more novel control interface features of the Prius. Here is my top 10 list of things to watch out for... 1) Get used to releasing the parking brake by your foot. In the early days of owning the car, I forgot to do this a couple of times and drove off with the car bleeping at me until I realised the sin I had committed. 2) Drive selector forward = reverse. Not forward. Reverse. I have my car programmed to only emit one bleep while reversing instead of a continuous bleeping. So I nearly got caught out a couple of times when I put the selector into the wrong position and didn't register the bleep. Thankfully I realised my mistake before any damage was done. (It helps if you try to move off slowly and steadily.) Oh yes, allied to the above... 3) Bleeps. The car will bleep at you quite a bit for various reasons (sounds like it is trying to swear at you but the very polite Japanese manufacturer put a CENSOR feature in there to bleep out the words!) It takes a while to realise what is going on in each instance. HINT: never let a passenger remove a seatbelt while the car is anything more mobile than absolutely stationary. The car will go more berserk than John McInroe on Centre Court. 4) The car engine is silent. (Even the ICE = Internal Combustion Engine is very quiet. But the electric engine is much better at that - even quieter than a teenager trying to sneak upstairs at 2AM without awakening his parents.) So it can be all too easy to park the car and get out with the engine still running. Don't worry, this is another instance of the aforementioned CENSORED swearing to let you know what you have done. 5) Trying to lock the car while the keyfob is still inside it. Yep, another coin in the swear box. 6) Distracted pedestians who try to decorate your bonnet because they don't hear you coming when you are in stealth (aka EV) mode. This is an opportunity for you to show the car how swearing really can be done. Or a swift toot of the horn if you want to be a bit more Japanese and polite about the whole affair. 7) Don't cover over the hybrid battery cooling vent in the rear seat. Not that I've tried this. But I understand a nuclear explosion follows and The World Will End Horribly. (Actually, I'm just kidding about the world ending bit. At least, I think I am.) 8) Hypermiling. Bet you never even heard of the term before. But now you have a Prius, you are in a prime position to be bitten by The Hypermiling Bug. Symptoms include: - muttering Star-Trek dialogue like "warp stealth" and "pulse and glide" - avidly swapping MPG figures with other drivers - feeling relaxed when other drivers overtake you - driving with one eye glued on the HSI (Hybrid System Indicator) trying to get that elusive extra 0.1 onto the gauge. Trust me, this will happen. I found the best tactic was to accept it and program the HUD to display both speed and miniature HSI. That way, at least I get to keep my eyes on the road while watching the HSI. 9) Wolf in sheep's clothing syndrome. Usually manifested by burning off allegedly "faster" cars at the traffic lights, just so you can see the surprised look on their faces as your milk float (you did say "Pearl White", didn't you?) zooms away in front of them. 10) Jealousy. From other drivers. Owning a Prius means you will be discovering new features every day that will bring a smile to your face and a lightness to your wallet. But there are ways you can cope with discussions with other motorists. Smile disarmingly at them when they mutter about the congestion charge. Click your tongue sympathetically when they moan about their annual car tax. Nod understandingly when they complain about the spiralling price of fuel. Roll your eyes heavenward along with them as they talk about the stress of sitting in stop-start traffic with their diesel clattering and their DPF clogging. Tilt your head to one side with a suitable smile of understanding while they whinge about having to squeeze their six foot sons into a small manual gearbox city car, "Because that's the only way you can get decent fuel consumption figures nowadays." Oh, and above all else... ENJOY


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