Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/15/2010 in all areas

  1. 18 points
    The symptoms. The MPG is disgraceful this time last year we was averaging no less than 38mpg over a tank and around 42-45mpg when driven on a run with cruise control set at 70mph. Over Christmas we did approx 1500miles and have managed best on a run +4oc 31mpg driving with cruise control set at 70mph, when it was cold we was down to 21mpg and have now risen to around 30mpg driving like your gran going to church. These figures are a long way short of the figures that Toyota quote and of what we was achieving this time last year with similar temperatures, it may be worth noting the car makes a pinking sound at around 1800-2300rpm if you put your foot down and there is a small delay / flat spot in throttle response (not turbo lag) when you press the accelerator, I suspect this is the fly by wire throttle system but is it supposed to have a delay? How to clean, I did have to borrow a few pictures as I had cleaned mine by the time I made this thread. 1. Remove the engine cover, this just pulls up and unclips. 2. Now you can see the EGR Valve, you will need a 12mm socket, Ratchet and extension to remove this. 3. Remove these 2 x bolts 1st for the pipe above the EGR valve. 4. Now undo the other 4 x 12mm nuts and bolts from the EGR valve and unplug this from the wiring loom, this can now be removed. 5. This is now what you will find. Dirty manifold with 2 x blocked breathing holes. Dirty EGR valve with restricted air flow. 6. I cleaned these using an old toothbrush, small screw driver, carburettor cleaner, old cloth and a dyson cleaner to suck the muck out. Try to scrape and brush out the thick carbon then use the carburettor cleaner to clean the finish this off. Now once all this is cleaned out just simply refit, This took me a total of 15 minutes so I assure you this is very easy. The results This will vary for everyone but in my experience I did a 360mile round trip the next day with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, going there (more downhill) the roads where very very wet with poor visibility and approx 7oc and we averaged 41.1MPG by the time we got there. When we come home with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, slightly uphill most of the way the roads where dry and approx 3oc the average MPG had dropped to 40.0. When I filled up we got 37.4litres in the tank which I rounded up to 38 and worked out at 43MPG (I always brim the tank). This is now showing a big improvement / approx 20% for a 15minute job of cleaning the EGR valve. I will also note the slight flat spots in throttle response are a lot less than before. I would like to say a big thank you to cabcurtains for bringing the EGR valve to my attention and to twingo69 as I borrowed a few pictures from his thread to make this guide. UPDATE Ok it has been nearly 5 months and around 4k since I did this do this morning I thought I would check the EGR valve. To be honest the manifold was very very clean maybe a small less than 1mm coating of carbon and the EGR valve had a little more, I did clean this again while it was removed but in my opinion looking at what I seen today I would recommend cleaning this around every 12months or 10k. UPDATE Well over the next 12 months the MPG just continued to drop, Toyota claimed there was no problems with the car but by Feb 11 we could only manage 28-32MPG at best. I had also noticed the car had started to do a lot of DPF recycle burns and suspect the DPF was maybe on its way out, we had no warrenty left on the car so had a shop around and exchanged for a 5 month old 500 mile CRZ. What can I say but for sure the CRZ is one of the best cars we ever owned and was fantastic on fuel (49MPG average for every turn of the key over 9 months and 9000 miles) but due to the birth of Lewis we needed a bigger car so exchanged this for a CTR (FN2), I will say that so far over 7000 miles this has returned 29MPG for us which puts a quicker petrol car in the same area as the T180 when we traded this in. What never made sence was when we first bought the T180 we could get 40-44MPG no problem then at around 30'000 miles the MPG just started to drop while nothing really changed, we never found a cure for this or a fault but for sure this is problem and Toyota must know about this because they dropped the 2.2 and 2.0 Auris diesel cars and have now agreed to use BMW diesel engines from 2013. Why the worlds largest car manufacturer would need to use a BMW diesel engine is beyond me unless it shows they are struggling to get a modern diesel to be clean and efficient while being very driveable.
  2. 9 points
    I am now the proud owner of a 17-plate Prius PHV in Hypersonic Red. Generally speaking, I don’t like red cars, but for some reason I like this one. I'm sure I will be posting more about it in due course. Here's a nice picture of it: However, the process of getting to the stage where this particular car is sitting on my drive has been nothing less than tortuous. What I was expecting to be a joyful process full of anticipatory excitement turned out to be an arduous and depressing slog, as my wife and I travelled hundreds of miles around the country seeking the 'right' car, only to discover an almost-uniformly awful experience at each Toyota dealership we visited. I should perhaps point out that this is likely to be a long post, written more for my own cathartic benefit than for anyone else's interest, so here’s the tl;dr up front, to save you the effort of reading through the drivel beneath: Uninterested, uninformed dealers making half-hearted attempts to sell cars, often in worryingly-dubious condition, for staggeringly random prices. Anyway, if you do want to read on, here's the unexpurgated version. It's not pretty... To start with, what the juddering hell is the deal with pricing on these cars? It's insane. Brand spanking new Prius Excel PHVs are available through Carwow for £27.5k, so why would anyone pay more than that for a used one with a few thousand miles on it? Yet we found tens for sale, well above that price point. The bizarrely specific numbers like £28,471 suggested some kind of machine-learning algorithm at play. I can only assume this was locked in some kind of infinite rank-ordering comparison loop, as I actually saw individual vehicle prices going up as well as down in the time I was monitoring them. Unsurprisingly, these optimistically-priced specimens are all still for sale now, having spent months on forecourts already. I am utterly baffled at what is happening here. Even more mystifying was the price differential between apparently identical cars. We found cars with the same specs, age and mileage, for sale at up to £5k difference in sticker price. In one case, this difference was between two cars at the same dealership! Granted, the cheaper one was in Dishwasher White but even so, you've got to really hate kitchen appliances to pay five large more for Decuma Grey, right? Price had seemingly no bearing on condition, either. And, on the subject of condition, the state we found some of these cars in was shockingly poor, given that they were all Toyota Approved cars with minimal miles, less than 18 months old. The first one we saw had done fewer than 2,000 miles yet looked like it had done ten times that; it was covered in scratches inside and out, with big chips of paint missing from the front bumper. The driver's door looked like it had repeatedly been opened into a brick wall, and was down to the bare metal along its edge. Yet the conversation that followed went roughly like this: "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "Okay, but if we agree to buy it, will you get your bodyshop to sort the worst bits of the paintwork out before we collect?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "That’s a no, then?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "And you're not prepared to make any kind of reduction to account for the poor condition, to cover the cost of getting it sorted ourselves?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "Right. Bye, then." Then there was the one that turned out to have done over 3,000 miles more than advertised, with a replacement windscreen that had somehow been re-fitted with no seals around it, leaving huge gaps and the plastic scuttle flapping in the breeze, along with two strips of glue residue on the roof from where they'd used the wrong tape to hold it in. "Don't worry, we'll get the workshop to look at the windscreen and get it sorted for you before you pick up the car." "Right. Would that be the same workshop that made such a godforsaken mess of it the first time around?" "Er, yes..." "Er, bye then." And then there was the one that had a big dent in the lower side panel, and which had been run by the dealership boss for 18 months but somehow hadn't been serviced at all in that time. "Don't worry, we'll fix the dent with a bit of filler and we'll service it before you buy it. The manufacturer's warranty will be fine." "You mean the warranty that Toyota specifically state will not be fine, as any items which fail in future as a possible result of lack of servicing will not be covered?" "No, it will be fine. Let me get my service manager to explain why both you and the Toyota website are wrong about this." "No, let me get my coat, and remind me never to assume that Toyota dealers understand their own service intervals and warranty conditions." Still, if some of the cars were poor, the actual experiences and interactions in the showrooms were worse. Here's a flavour of what we endured: Being left waiting for ages whilst the salesman 'found the best price' for my car, only for him to finally come out and offer £1k less than we both knew it was worth. Pro-tip: We all know you can look up a valuation in 30 seconds. If you're going to bid me in the nuts for my car, at least have the common decency not to make me wait for half an hour before you do. Especially not when you're keeping me from my lunch. Being seated directly in front of glass pane windows, squinting into the baking sun, in a showroom that inexplicably didn't have air conditioning, waiting for the salesperson to arrive whilst being forcibly engaged in toe-curlingly banal conversation by a painfully enthusiastic teenager wearing a badge that actually – I kid you not – gave his job title as Host. Pro-tip. Try to ensure you offer a buying experience that doesn't run the risk of contravening the Geneva Convention as a form of cruel and unusual punishment. You may just sell more cars. Being told that the person I'd agreed to meet at the specified time wasn't available, being asked to wait until someone else could see us, then being dealt with by a surly, uncommunicative teenager who had no interest in selling the car and whose knowledge about the product he was supposed to be persuading us to buy was utterly non-existent. He even checked his phone a few times during our conversation. Pro-tip: If you really must employ useless millennials who can't grasp the concept of turning up at an agreed time and place, at least make sure the backup isn't a social media addict from Generation Zombie. Being told that the dealership couldn't provide a valuation for my car at all, unless I first agreed I would definitely buy their car from them and not go elsewhere. Pro-tip. That. Is. Not. How. It. Works. You've just let me walk away, and I will not be coming back. Ever. You can call me all you like the day after. But, just as you discovered, I won't be answering. Being told that my wife couldn't sit next to me in the front for the test drive as the salesman had to be there in case he needed to 'grab the wheel' when I was driving. Pro-tip: Try to avoid insulting your customer's driving ability before they've even got in the car. Oh, and never let my wife ride behind you when you've just ****** her off. We nearly did crash in the end, because I was too busy laughing at her in the rear view mirror as she made gestures behind your back suggesting your proclivity for indulging in onanistic pleasure. Frankly, you were lucky she didn't garotte you with your spivvy skinny tie. Being told that there was 'no room for negotiation' on the initial cost to change you offered. Pro-tip: There is always room for negotiation. Otherwise *cough* you might end up with your car still on your forecourt, at a *cough* considerably reduced price that is now hilariously less than what I was actually willing to pay you weeks ago. Ha ha ha and, indeed, ha. Being told on the phone that I had to pay a £100 'refundable deposit' in order to make sure the car would be available to view the next day. Pro-tip: Wait, what? I don't even… kthxbye. Even when we actually found a car in decent nick that wasn't horrifically overpriced, defective or abused, it was a struggle to complete the purchase. I think it was the young salesman's first ever experience of dealing with someone who didn't want finance. Or possibly just his first ever experience of selling a car. He was giddy with excitement, which was actually quite endearing at first. We finally agreed a price that I was happy to pay, shook hands on the deal, then he went round the back to get the paperwork. All seemed to be going well. Then he returned, looking very sheepish and informed us that we'd have to pay £1 more than we'd just agreed. He explained that he'd exceeded the amount by which he was 'allowed' to discount the car, so would we mind paying a pound more? After my wife and I realised that he wasn't actually joking, we obviously told him to do one. A gentleman does not renege on a handshake, FFS! However, I did generously agree to sign the paperwork for the higher amount if he gave me a quid from his own pocket there and then. Panicking now, and not having any cash himself, he was out of ideas so I suggested he went round the back for a whip-round. I fully expected him to return with a handful of loose change. However, he eventually came back having apparently got permission to put the lower amount through on the card machine whilst keeping the extra £1 on the paperwork. Seriously, that happened. In all honesty, if we hadn't have closed the deal on that one then we'd probably have just thrown in the towel and bought a brand new one on finance. I have a sneaky suspicion that this may actually have been Toyota's plan all along: overprice your used stock and make the buying-for-cash experience so awful that people give up and finance a new one instead. I’m glad we didn't, as I've ended up with what seems to be a decent example, obtained in the end for a fair price. But next time? I'm not sure I'll have the energy. I might just have to accept that long-term ownership is a dying scene, and give in and join the masses on their 3-year contracts and monthly payments...
  3. 9 points
    On the Eleventh hour of the Eleventh hour of the Eleventh day, the guns fell silent ... ... ... They went with songs to the battle, they were young. Straight of limb, true of eyes, steady and aglow. They were staunch to the end against odds uncounted, They fell with their faces to the foe. They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old: Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning, We will remember them. They mingle not with their laughing comrades again; They sit no more at familiar tables of home; They have no lot in our labour of the day-time; They sleep beyond England's foam.
  4. 9 points
    This is an American article on which vehicles are traded in for the Nissan Leaf. Over there it is the Toyota Prius, where 18% of all trades in for a Leaf were Prii. http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1067548_which-cars-are-getting-traded-in-for-electric-cars-we-find-out So I'm curious what the figures are over here? I'm wondering if it would be similar or at least is the Prius the top trade in. If it is, Toyota might want to reassess the ridiculous price of their forthcoming PHEV Prius as customers don't appear loyal to the brand as such, but rather the early adoptor nature of the new technology. I've got a Prius and am tempted for a Leaf. I liked the idea of the PHEV Prius, but £31,000!!! lol not a chance. What would you get if you were to replace your Prius - a PHEV Prius, a Leaf or the Ampera?
  5. 8 points
    I am getting fed up of the number of posts where people are bragging about driving at speeds well in excess of the speed limit. None of this "private road/race track nudge nudge wink wink" crap either. The next person to make a post of this nature will be banned. No warning, no message to ask you not to post things like that just straight to a ban. If you want to post about your exploits breaking the law then please also include your full name, address, car reg and where/when you broke the speed limit so that TOC can pass it on to your local Police so that you can be removed from our roads as well as our forums!
  6. 8 points
    Hi, I had the same problem. Poor start with cold day, engine sometimes only puff-puff and stall (blue-white smoke). In last three years I changed glow plugs, battery, overhaul fuel pump, bought new injectors, bought fuel warmer etc. But everything without effect. Now I found where is problem. If you have a small SCV valve on fuel pump (called Compact SCV) try this home made diagnostic: warm up SCV valve before starting in cold day using hot water or hot airgun (about 80°C). When engine start for first time, piston in SCV valve is seized (rather chill diminishes tolerance and piston seized). Denso prepare new version of SCV valve, please wait few days, I prepare complete guide with pictures, order numbers and Denso service manual. P.S. I´m sorry for my english, because I´m from Czech Republic :-) Edit: 6.2.2013 - Here is part number: new one - 0422626020 (replace old 042260L030) After replace SCV, you must make Supply Pump Initialization Procedure - see enclosed Denso Repair Manual, Repair Section/2.Diagnostic Overview/2-113 to 2-115. I make this process with Toyota IT II (Intelligent Tester), I think that this way is better than connecting terminals TC and CG.. After replacing SCV during calibration were two random errors. Both of these errors concerned Air Mass sensor and Intake Air Temperature. I erased all this errors three times during calibration. Now is everything OK. Torque for SCV bolts is 6,9Nm first, 10,8Nm second. DENSO CR SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
  7. 7 points
    Toyota 1N Engine Repair Manual 1N Engine Manual.zip
  8. 7 points
    The Prius Gen 4 Although many of the descriptions here apply to all versions of the Prius gen 4, driving impressions and results are of my Business Edition Plus with 15” wheels and Bridgestone Ecopia EP150 195/65R15 91H tyres. This is my view -you may find it ‘dogmatic’ and biased but you’re allowed to love your car! Hybrid cars have never been understood by most motoring journalists and motorists so their benefits have not been appreciated. As a consequence much pollution has and is being generated by out of date propulsion technology. The Toyota system (Hybrid Synergy Drive) is the most effective system for propelling a car efficiently over daily mixed driving. The Prius is the best example of a hybrid for this purpose, but this has not been widely realised because most do not understand the issues. Having read many reviews and explanations of the hybrid drive system it is clear that it is not understood, and its advantages not explained. The Prius generation 4 is the most efficient car which does not plug in. It is second in low pollution to the i3, an electric car. There is no range anxiety with the Prius as you can go many hundreds of miles on a tank of petrol, which only takes a few minutes to fill. Practical journeys of hundreds of miles with a family and their luggage are easily possible. It is important to note that it is a very clean petrol/electric hybrid. The Prius is affordable and intended to be used in everyday motoring, not a manufacturer’s attempt to include a low emission vehicle in their range. In regard to it being a very clean petrol/electric hybrid, drivers have been erroneously encouraged to buy Diesel powered cars in the mistaken belief that they were low polluters simply on good mpg thus low CO2, and now Governments around the world are having to find ways to discourage use of Diesel power particularly in urban areas where the majority live. The discussion has now started to mention the high level of poisonous NOx emissions from diesel engines and the carcinogenic soot from diesel exhausts. The Toyota Hybrid Synergy Drive is a near perfect way to power a passenger car. Continual development means it is refined, efficient, smooth and quiet. It is nice to know that with such driving pleasure comes excellent economy, low pollution, low tax and low maintenance costs. The gen 4 Prius is fresh and dramatically styled both inside and out. To me a cross between luxury car and stealth fighter. It makes most cars seem very old -fashioned, and is very smooth and pleasant to travel in. The entire engine/motors/transmission/controller is a brilliant compact package. Unlike conventional drive trains, both manual and automatic, the Prius has no clutch, or gears to shift, therefore no clutch mechanism and gearshift mechanism. There is no starter motor to engage, nor fan belt and water pump belt, which are all sources of problems in old-fashioned cars. Imagine an old-fashioned manual car starting up. First a noisy starter is engaged and a little churning goes on until the engine fires. Then gears are crunched and the clutch is let up to allow a jerky take-off, unless of course the engine is stalled and the car stuck, while the whole process is repeated. A few seconds later another gear has to be selected and the clutch engaged to try a smooth gearchange. There is no gear lever as no gears are “shifted”; forward and reverse motion are selected by a switch when stationary. Take-off is accomplished by electric power and is smooth and continuous, with no risk of stalling. At traffic lights it is not necessary to keep the Prius in “gear” (that is switched to drive) as it sits silently until Drive is selected and this can be done more quickly than many drivers sitting with their foot on the clutch and their car burning fuel, can engage the clutch and move off. On the road the car is very easy and pleasing to drive. The certain availability of torque to propel the car makes daily driving easier and worry free. The electronic driver aids such as radar cruise control, lane warning and blind spot monitoring are a great help to safe driving and reduce the load on the driver. The head up display has always been a favourite of mine, although originally regarded as a gimmick by some motoring journalists. The Prius is very convenient in everyday use, from the ease of entry with the keyless system to the ability to carry large items occasionally. The ride and handling are very good and as mentioned noise levels are low. It is often not obvious whether the petrol engine is running. Driving on the road or turning in tight spaces is easy and the car is very easy to manoeuvre. When necessary it parks itself accurately with minimal input from the driver. The car is technically a great achievement from Toyota, who have been steadily developing the future of motoring for some years. The entire engine transmission and two electric motors integrated into a compact unit
  9. 7 points
    ... until today. From what I've been told (and partially observed), this is a rolling advertisement for a local crane company. The rig isn't in any way operational. Still.. Worth a look and a laugh: Spotted by yours truly in downtown Oslo, Norway.
  10. 7 points
    So - after The Grand Tour audience laughed haughtily at the Prius I decided to shoot a second film about WHY I LIKE IT! Hope you agree, like it, smile, laugh, sniff or any other exclamations.
  11. 7 points
    This guide is wriiten to hopefully answer most of the often asked questions about the 2AD 2.2 Diesel engine and its problems. The Symptoms Owners complain of the following; Excessive oil consumption. Coolant Water being blown out of the expansion tank and the colour sometimes turning darker in colour. Excessive Fuel consumption. Blocked or heavily sooted EGR valves And of course cars going into limp mode or displaying fault codes relating to this engines issues. Toyotas Answer. Well Toyota really stepped up to the plate and offered an extended warranty which can be found in the following text taken from the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) "AD Engine Out of Warranty Guidelines (0730J) We are pleased to advise that we have received more formalised guidelines from TME for the handling of AD engine problems on out of warranty vehicles. The coverage and processes are summarised below. Conditions Covered 1) Oil consumption worse than 0.5 litre per 621 miles (1,000 km) 2) Overheating & Head Gasket failure due to carbon deposits on the pistons For all other out of warranty conditions related to AD engine problems, where the customer complaint can be directly linked to a “carbon clogging” concern, i.e. EGR Valve, DPNR, 5th Injector, EGR Cooler, blocked manifold, etc., we would accept this as being linked to an oil consumption condition. Vehicles Covered Those vehicles fitted with AD diesel engines; ��Avensis with 1AD or 2AD (Prod. Date: Apr 2005 to Feb 2009) ��RAV4 with 2AD (Prod. Date: Jul 2005 to Dec 2008) ��Auris with 1AD or 2AD (Prod. Date: Sep 2006 to Sep 2009) ��Verso with 2AD (Prod. Date: Apr 2005 to Nov 2008) Age / Mileage Covered These guidelines cover vehicles up to 7 years old and 111,846 miles (180,000 km), whichever the sooner. This is conditional on there being a retail customer complaint and the vehicle having been reasonably maintained". So what do I do if my car is displaying the above faults? You should take Your car for inspection to your nearest Toyota Dealers. They will check your oil level and carry out all or any checks required by Toyota and read any stored fault codes. You will then be asked to take the car back to the dealer after approximately 1000 miles and the oil will be checked again to determine if its oil consumption is to great as in the TSB above. So what happens next? If it is deemed You engine is burning too much oil, is sooting the EGR valve or displaying any of the above related faults your engine will be replaced under the extended warranty. What will be replaced? The engine assembly in Toyota terms is a ¾ engine which is basically the whole engine from the sump up to the rocker cover. Up until mid 2011 engines were rebuilt by the Dealer but after this proved too time consuming and sometimes unsuccessful, engines were replaced as a ¾ assembly for economic reasons. Sometimes these replacement engines are reworked or remanufactured engines rebuilt in Japan. Sometimes the engines are brand new. The following will or may be replaced during the procedure. EGR valve. Injectors including the 5th injector. Catalytic convertor. DFP filter (Diesel Particulate Filter). The engine oil of course and the coolant . Air conditioning will be re gassed. The procedure for and during replacement Well I will explain what my experience was...... Once the car was diagnosed and the engine replacement was approved I took the car into the Dealer who kindly supplied me with a free courtesy car. 2 days later I was called and informed my car was ready for collection. I was given a work sheet detailing what had been done and the new engine number. Note: It is the owners responsibility to inform the DVLA of the change. The differences between old and new engine. The new engine is much quieter. Fuel consumption is far better than before. Consider also; If You are having a new engine fitted under warranty, consider having a new clutch assembly fitted while the engine is out. There will normally be no labour charge for this as there is no increased labour as all these parts are stripped out during replacement. It would otherwise cost in the region of £1200 (should it become necessary) for a clutch replacement on a RAV4 but less on an Auris, Avensis or Verso. I hope this answers most of the questions. If I have made any mistakes please PM Me and I will correct.... Charlie.
  12. 7 points
    I purchased my first IQ new in March 2013 (pearl white) and was previously a member of this forum until my details were lost in a server failure. I visited my Toyota dealer last week to view the Aygo but was not impressed, the build quality was no match for the IQ. I was told the IQ was being discontinued so ordered a new one which I took delivery of today, a nice chilly red IQ CVT. No regrets about buying a discontinued model. Over 40 years of motoring driving many different cars large and small, none have been as much fun as the IQ. End of an era.
  13. 7 points
    I had to post these photos of my buddies iQ. He did a full body wrap to advertise his company Armored Ink Tattoo. Just looks amazing. I'll have more information coming soon.
  14. 7 points
    I see neither advertising nor soliciting in Charlies post, his intentions were clearly to seek advice on how best to find a new home for his Rav. The listing of fitted extras was simply a way of giving Rav forum members the tools to best advise him on a sensible asking price for his Rav, IMHO this is neither an attempt to advertise his Rav nor to promote any third party website. Another interesting and well contributed post ruined, this forum will soon need mediators not moderators, needless intervention !
  15. 6 points
    After upgrading my headunit to a Pioneer system last month, http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/157732-Gps-Receiver-Location?#entry1325433 I now have upgraded my speakers with pioneer ones....The ones I fitted are recommened by pioneer to go with my headunit. The tools needed were screwdrivers, stanley knife, crimping or soldiering tools and panel removal tool. Oh and plenty..... So the first thing to do is start popping off all the trim.....The tweeter grill comes off with finger pressure These came off pretty easy with a plastic trim tool. Next you need to undo the three exposed screws.. Then you need to pop the door trim off. They are held in with these. Mine came away pretty easy again, but i do have a trim removal tool just in case. Then i popped out the OEM tweeter and finally the door release mechanism.... And hey presto speaker is now accessible. Next you need to drill out the three rivets holding in the woofer speaker. This is done using a 4mm drill. For those who dont know how to do this, just drill down the centre of the rivet about 2-3mm deep then pull the drill to one side and the head of the rivet will pop off. And then youll have the speaker out of the door..... Install the new speaker you will need an adaptor. I got mine from ebay made by connect2. My pioneer's TS-170ci So now to install. I screwed my adpator to the door first with sealant. Not sure if this is a waste of time or not, but i like to do it to eliminate any vibration and air flow out the sides. I then attach the speaker wires to back of speaker and then screw that to the adaptor with sealant also.... I cut off the OEM speaker plug and wired onto the end spade plugs to fit onto speaker. Next I attached the pioneer Tweeter to the back of the door. And then put eveything back together in reverse order. I now need to break in the speakers before turning volume up to high, but off the bat these sound way better than the oem ones... But saying that, and seeing the size of the oem speakers, I am really suprised at the quality of sound and bass with the toyota speakers with such a small magnet. So much so these are going straight into my wifes R reg corsa..... One thing I would also recommend is that when you are fitting the speaker DO NOT use an electric drill/driver. Screw the speaker in by hand. As its so easy to over tighten and split the plastic adaptor or more importantly, slip of the screw head and puncture your new speaker cone...... Now to do the other 3. Hope this helps anyone thinking about doing a speaker upgrade. P.s. Sorry for the small pics, not sure what happened there.... Edit: I have just finished installing rear speakers. Went fine, just like the fronts but I have to add I thought the rears were 6.5" like the fronts but nope they are 5.1/4" dual cones..... Dual cones, good god, no wonder they sound crap. Anyways, I ordered 2 pairs of pioneers TS-170Ci. Long story short they did fit and the door trim went back on OK, but I did have to make new fitting holes for the speaker adaptors...... Now the sound is 100% better... The bass is much more pronounced.... And less rumble/muddy sound when at high volumes..... I was gonna install a pioneer under the seat sub woofer but I think I'll hold of for now.EDIT: Well I think i've held of long enough........Time to install a underseat subwoofer.... I went for the Kenwood KSC-SW11. Read loads of reviews and this one kept coming up on top for my price bracket. So first, time to remove headunit again. And plug in RCA Phonos and Amp remote trigger (the Blue wire). I then removed the centre console and run these two wires between seats. Then removed glove box and lower panel. And went looking for a 12v+ feed.... I noticed this blanking plug. So unplugged it and noticed what looked like a socket for a relay.. Anway I tested the left prong and it was a 12v feed. But did also notice that the blanking plug was bridging the left and right prong using this..... So I decided to keep this in place and just solder my amp 12v feed to it... Put it back in to the blanking plug... And pushed it back into its position on the fuse box. I have decided to run a 12v Power lead ,and remote trigger, twice the size that is necessary for this amp because, I know that in a few months I will put another one under the other seat. So doing this means the power and trigger is already run and i have no need to disturb the front of the car again. I now run the power wire down between seats along with the previous two. Next I placed the sub under the seat and routed the wires through the carpet to the middle od the centre console framework. I then joined all wires together and tucked them inside the centre console framework. And screwed the earth to the frame. Then put it all back together. I have put the amp controller inside the armrest. Along with all the other wires from the headunit. Until I install the second underseat amp, I have set the headunit sub controls to max and am using the amp controller to adjust and play with the bass. When the second amp is in, I will max out the two amp controllers, tuck and secure them under the seats, then use the headunit to control both amps. In fact a quick look at instructions shows with the controllers removed it will still produce sound with the frequency cut-off set 125Hz and phase set 0 Deg. So right now I am in the burning in period of the amp and speaker. But even when it is set to half way there is a noticeable difference is bass.Now I know this isn't gonna produce earth shattering bass, but it is definately adding more bass to my set up. In fact i'm suprised how much bass it kicks out for such a small unit.It also means I can turn down the bass to the door speakers a little, which reduces clipping or popping...... This was a fun install and I can't wait to add the second one..... Hope this helps anyone, in anyway..... :D
  16. 6 points
    Took the redundant rear seat out of my iQ and finally got around to making the remains half decent. I like the idea of retaining the storage holder which is usually behind the rear seat, but made my own which fills the gap nicely behind the front seats.
  17. 6 points
    So you no doubt won't be impressed to hear I still think in pounds, shillings and pence! Can't believe I pay over 12 shillings for the cheapest postage stamp!
  18. 6 points
    Couldn't agree more - we're still (allegedly) a sovereign nation, we should never have adopted litres in the first place. I'm also really annoyed when programmes made by the BBC (British Broadcasting Corporation) give measurements in Kilometres, without even stating what that is in British Imperial measure!
  19. 6 points
    Productive evening with a roll of silver carbon fibre film, a sharp knife and a hair dryer. Handbrake surround was badly scratched (by previous owner), couldn't afford to get then hydrodipped and didn't want to risk painting. Much better now!
  20. 6 points
    This post is designed to give a basic overview of modern Toyota Diesel engines and their commonly troublesome components: How does a Diesel engine work? Firstly Diesel is not as flammable as Petrol. Diesel engines don’t have spark plugs to ignite the fuel, but to bring about combustion they require heat. If you put your finger over the end of a foot pump and pump it, your finger will become hot. This is due to compression of the air trapped inside the pump (the air molecules have less space to move about and collide with each other more frequently causing energy to be given off in the form of heat). The same thing happens in a diesel engine: as the piston moves upwards, the air trapped inside is compressed, causing it to heat up (the temperature reached is circa 400 degrees C). Just before the piston reaches the top of its' stroke, the pump and injectors spray a very fine mist of diesel into the piston chamber. The intense heat of the trapped air in the piston causes the diesel to ignite, forcing the piston down and producing the power stroke which goes through the engine via the gearbox / wheels etc etc and off you go. What are Glow Plugs? When internal sensors detect that the core of the engine block has reached a certain designated temperature, or when a certain amount of time elapses, the glowplug relay switches off the "wait-to-start" light. A pre-heating cycle usually lasts for 2 to 5 seconds. The driver then turns the key to the "start" position. The glowplug relay switches off the glowplugs after the engine is running. In some newer cars, glow plugs continue to operate for up to 180 seconds after engine start to keep the engine within emissions regulations, as combustion efficiency is greatly reduced when the engine is very cold. Link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug As glow plugs wear out the vehicle will be more difficult to start, run poorly and produce a white/bluey smoke. Glow Plugs are a reasonably cheap to replace. What is D4D? D4D is Toyota’s version of Common Rail Diesel. The term "common rail" refers to the fact that all of the fuel injectors are supplied by a common fuel rail which is nothing more than a pressure accumulator where the fuel is stored at high pressure. This accumulator supplies multiple fuel injectors with high pressure fuel. Modern common rail systems, are governed by an engine control unit (ECU) which opens each injector electronically rather than mechanically. What are Injectors? Fuel injectors are a key part of modern automotive systems, as they're responsible for getting fuel into the engine in a precise, orderly and carefully engineered pattern. Unfortunately, the conditions we drive in are not ideal. Pollution is in the air, and fuel can be contaminated with water, dirt particles and other debris. Regularly changing your fuel filter (according to change interval in your service book) will help keep debris from circulating. You can also add fuel injector cleaner to your fuel tank, which may help solve running issues. Doing this at regular intervals of 10,000 miles or so might provide more cleansing than your engine actually needs, but it shouldn’t harm the system. Injector Cleaner can't improve your car beyond its original factory spec. When injectors fail there are generally two approaches to repair, take the vehicle to a main dealer and have the whole set (£1000+) replaced or find a diesel specialist who may be able to replace or repair individual injectors (circa £250 each) after testing. Fuel Injector problem symptoms include, poor starting, rough running, loss of power, black or white smoke. It is generally known that injectors will need attention after 100,000 miles. What is a Turbo? Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the turbocharging. When Turbo’s are failing they will typically cause the car to have a loss of power, excessive smoke and in some cases a high pitched whine. Turbo’s can often be repaired bya turbo specialists or replaced with a new unit, obviously a repair is cheaper. What is an SCV? SCV's (Suction Control Valves) are used in Common Rail diesel engines to control the pressure of the fuel in the accumulator. The pressure is varied by the ECU by controlling how much fuel the pump feeds into the accumulator, replacing the fuel as it is delivered into the engine by the injectors. Low pressure for the injectors at idle, high pressure at maximum power. Electrically operated, SCVs can need to open and close at up to 200 times per second and if they stick or fail to open properly then poor running, starting and power loss can occur. Sticking when hot is often cited as a cause of hot starting problems. D4D pumps may have one or two of these valves depending on the type of pump fitted, this is important when ordering the correct parts. Vehicles commonly affected by this have the 1CD-FTV 2.0 D4D Engine 2000-2005, found on RAV4/Avensis/Corolla built between these dates. This article SCV's on the RAV4 Forum provides an overview of the location and parts on a two valve pump. These parts are typically £250 to replace + fitting if required. What is an EGR Valve? Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is a nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions reduction technique used in modern engines, EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. After a while the gases containing dirty, sooty carbons start to cover and coat the intake area and valves causing the air to fuel ratio to become unbalanced thus resulting in more black smoke being emitted from the exhaust. This black smoke is then drawn back into the air intake via the EGR valve. A vicious cycle then starts with the engine producing more smoke and sootier carbons being drawn into the intake, a major problem. Symptoms of EGR issues include lack of power, engine hesitancy and then a surge of power followed by black sooty smoke. A fall in fuel economy may also occur. On most Toyota engines the valve is easily removed and cleaned, a dealer will charge an hours labour to do the same job. If the valve fails it will cost around £300 to be supplied and fitted by Mr T. If the vehicle is used continually then carbon clogging could eventually lead to head gasket failure on AD engines, please review the attached document to see if your car has one of these engines.AD Head Gaskets.pdf A simple method of trying to keep the EGR valve clean is to drive the vehicle (once warm) hard by bringing the revs near to the red line, this will result in black soot leaving the exhaust, continue this until the soot no longer appears. This should be a weekly event. This is also known as an Italian Tune Up. Personally as my 2.2 D4D Verso is out of warranty i clean the EGR every 10k, this a superb guide http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=106241 What is D-Cat? D-CAT (Diesel Clean Advanced Technology) is Toyota’s version of a diesel particulate filter (DPF) which is a device designed to remove soot from the exhaust gas of a diesel engine. The soot created by the engine is burnt off during the regeneration process, this process uses fuel which is added by an additional injector, this additional fuel usage reduces MPG when compared with vehicles that dont have a DPF. The regeneration process occurs at road speeds higher than can generally be attained during urban usage ,vehicles driven exclusively at low speeds in urban traffic will require periodic trips at higher speeds to clean out the DPF. On cars with a very high sixth gear the engine revs may be too low to generate sufficient exhaust temperature for regeneration. Occasional harder driving in lower gears should be sufficient to burn off the soot in such cases. With this type of DPF regeneration will be initiated by the ECU every 300 miles or so depending on vehicle use and will take 10 to 15 minutes at 40MPH+ to complete. You shouldn't notice anything other than perhaps a puff of white smoke from the exhaust when the process is completed. If the DPF doesn’t regenerate properly eventually a warning light will be displayed and the vehicle should be taken to a main dealer. Continued usage past this point may destroy the DPF completely so it must be replaced, this will be very expensive (£1000+). DPF Continued If your car is type approved and registered after the date below it will have a DPF to meet the EU Emissions, things can get very complicated here. Vehicles are often built long before being registered, so you could purchase a 2010 car that was a 2009 model. Its important to ask what model year your car is and which emission standard it meets. Its possible to be driving a 10/60 or even an 11 Reg thats not Euro 5 (V) if the car was built long before being registered. Euro 5 (V) Emissions Standard Commenced - September 2009 If you only drive low mileages in town do not buy a Diesel with a DPF. A Petrol is more suitable. Modern Diesels are very complex machines, following manufacturer servicing guidelines is essential as is using the correct oils, fluids and drivers checking levels frequently. The issues mentioned above are not restricted to Toyota's, all manufacturers have these issues and probably more of them. Hopefully this is useful to people Please PM me if any of this requires amending.
  21. 6 points
    There is definitely more to the hybrid/diesel debate than just bottom line MPG. I have bought new Mk2, 3, 4 and 5 Golf diesels, but before buy the new Mk7 I fortunately saw the Light.....The Oriental Rising Sun. (Enter T Spirit Prius from stage left) Over 2 years of mixed miles, the balance being Motorway trips, the overall mpg is just over 60mpg, but none of the Golfs ever cracked 50mpg But the main substance of the Prius, is the car's deep outbreathe, and then Zen silence during the ever increasing motorway queues and traffic jams, when all those around are clutching/declutching, franticaally starting/stopping for just 10 meters of travel. If the car came with a blood pressure guage, you may even get a Prius Precription from your GP.
  22. 6 points
    OK guys, I prefer having an independent set myself but joking aside here is a second stab at the pros list... OEM Nav Pros O-1. Less likely to have a breakin as the unit is built in so cannot easily be removed by tea leafs. O-2. Don't have to fiddle around with physically setting it up before you drive away - less hassle and delay. O-3. No need to clean the windscreen to avoid tell tale sucker marks (see 1 above) O-4. Won't fall off the windscreen when you accelerate or corner hard O-5. Integrates to HUD, displaying directions for you in an easy to see format. O-6. Don't have to recharge it from the 12V socket, leaving the socket free for the 101 other things you use it for (electronic hand warmers anybody? ) O-7. Doesn't take up windscreen space, so more room for your fluffy Garfields. Or better visibility. You chose. Independent Set Pros I-1. Can use it in any car you want. I-2. A lot cheaper to buy. I-3. A lot cheaper to keep up to date. (Is it? ) I-4. Wider choice of devices so you can find something you really like rather than having to put up with just one user interface that might be annoying you. I-5. Wider choice of voicemappings, settings. I-6. When mounted it is in line of sight. You don't have to look down so far to see it. So improved safety and convenience. For different people, the relative values of the above will mean a different choice. I am sure others can add things to the starter for 13 above. R04drunner1 (P.S. if you like this, please show it some love by +1. Reputation still -7, don't know why!?)
  23. 6 points
    You need the ER300 Ecopia which is the low rolling resistance version of the ER300's. It will make a 5 mpg difference and without it you'll be lucky to get over mid 50's mpg. Also, check the garage haven't under inflated the tyres - garages can often just pump them to 30 psi rather than what they should be. When I've changed tyres (always use llr tyres) I don't find they need much bedding in to get the same economy as previouly. They may have disconnected the 12v when changing the water pump and this may have reset your cars computer which will take a few miles for it to learn the optimum settings for best economy. See how it goes but my money is on not having Ecopia llr tyres.
  24. 6 points
    How to clean, I did have to borrow a few pictures as I had cleaned mine by the time I made this thread. 1. Remove the engine cover, this just pulls up and unclips. 2. Now you can see the EGR Valve, you will need a 12mm socket, Ratchet and extension to remove this. 3. Remove these 2 x bolts 1st for the pipe above the EGR valve. 4. Now undo the other 4 x 12mm nuts and bolts from the EGR valve and unplug this from the wiring loom, this can now be removed. 5. This is now what you will find. Dirty manifold with 2 x blocked breathing holes. Dirty EGR valve with restricted air flow. 6. I cleaned these using an old toothbrush, small screw driver, carburettor cleaner, old cloth and a dyson cleaner to suck the muck out. Try to scrape and brush out the thick carbon then use the carburettor cleaner to clean the finish this off. Now once all this is cleaned out just simply refit, This took me a total of 15 minutes so I assure you this is very easy. The results This will vary for everyone but in my experience I did a 360mile round trip the next day with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, going there (more downhill) the roads where very very wet with poor visibility and approx 7oc and we averaged 41.1MPG by the time we got there. When we come home with mainly cruise control set at 70mph, slightly uphill most of the way the roads where dry and approx 3oc the average MPG had dropped to 40.0. When I filled up we got 37.4litres in the tank which I rounded up to 38 and worked out at 43MPG (I always brim the tank). This is now showing a big improvement / approx 20% for a 15minute job of cleaning the EGR valve. I will also note the slight flat spots in throttle response are a lot less than before. I would like to say a big thank you to cabcurtains for bringing the EGR valve to my attention and to twingo69 as I borrowed a few pictures from his thread to make this guide. This guide is only made possible thanks to Rick D4D who has allowed me to host his pics in order to keep this guide for others to use.
  25. 5 points
    I understand that the sounder must be carried by a person walking in front and carrying a red flag. 😁
  26. 5 points
    Protection against thieves? Well, it used to be called the law but then all sorts of protectional clap trap was introduced by do-gooders and found more easy to enforce than actually stopping the people from taking what doesn't belong to them. Now, you aren't allowed to give the individual who is helping themselves to your property a good pasting. Apparently, one of the most effective deterrents is prayer and the fear of being smited for ones sins by the almighty or in the case of prius catalytic converters, hope that God is looking and lets the jack slip.
  27. 5 points
    Lots of debate this time of year whether winter tyres or not. On 29th Jan 2019 it dumped with snow over the snake pass in the Peaks with very expensive 4x4's on their standard summer tyres failing to get over the top and even making the point of winding down their window to tell me that I had no chance on making it as they had tried twice & failed. I had lots of surprised faces when I passed them all and I was the only one over the top at 3pm on Tuesday afternoon - Winter tyres are the way forward if you live in an area that gets is bad!
  28. 5 points
    I cannot for the life of me understand why people are obsessed with range/segments/miles per tank etc etc, drives me nuts! Here is a tip for you all. Fill the tank, when it gets to a half or quarter tank, go to the fuel station and fill it up again, no stress, no strain, job done
  29. 5 points
    Another way to clean/ operate the rear brakes is to reverse quite fast in a safe area and brake. This way the weight of the car is transferred to the rear and the rear brakes will apply harder. Also Regen braking does not work in reverse as far as I know. HTH
  30. 5 points
    Not just gallons, but the rest of Imperial measurements. My wife went into sweet shop on Wednesday and asked for a quarter of sweets, which nonplussed the sales assistant completely.
  31. 5 points
    I have just replied to you with prices. We also have a policy of not giving out part numbers. We are under no obligation to provide part numbers, you can purchase technical information from Toyota tech doc, it does not give you part number information The reason we do not give part numbers is, people call a dealer to get a number, go away and Google the number, and buy the part from an online shop, usually a pattern part, based on the number we have given. When the part doesnt fit or there is a quality issue, the customer comes back to us complaining the part number must have been wrong. We undertake to supply the correct parts to our customers based on the information they give us, we don't give that information away so somebody can go and buy a pattern part based on what we have told them. We are happy to deal with hundreds of online quotes every year, but we are not happy to line somebody elses pocket. There are lots of online parts catalogues out there with part number information, many will be out of date as parts supplied will change number from time to time as parts are updated, please feel free to use one of those if it helps you Kingo
  32. 5 points
    Do you find forum responses from TOC members helpful? We would imagine you did, so please show your appreciation to our members and click "Like" in their post. It's members that go out of their way to help each other that make TOC such a great place, so liking their post is a visual way to say thanks!
  33. 5 points
    THINGS THAT ARE DIFFICULT TO SAY WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK: Indubitably Innovative Preliminary Proliferation Cinnamon THINGS THAT ARE VERY DIFFICULT TO SAY WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK: Specificity British Constitution Passive-aggressive disorder Loquacious Transubstantiate THINGS THAT ARE DOWNRIGHT IMPOSSIBLE TO SAY WHEN YOU'RE DRUNK: Thanks, but I don't want to have sex Nope, no more booze for me Sorry, but you're not really my type Good evening officer, isn't it lovely out tonight
  34. 5 points
    you do realise that we are all going to say that you are mad ...
  35. 5 points
    Having replaced my Gen3 Prius T-Spirit with a Lexus GS300h Premier a couple of months ago, I thought I would share my perspective on what the change has been like now that the rose-tinted honeymoon period of ownership is over. I know a few others have moved from a Toyota hybrid to a Lexus of some description, so I thought a comparison might be of some interest to anyone here who may be contemplating a similar move - especially as the GS depreciates so badly in Premier spec that it can be picked up for considerably less than a new Gen4 in Excel trim. And without wishing to ignite a pointless debate about the merits of second-hand versus new, it's hard to ignore the 'wow, that's a lot of car for the money' feeling such a comparison generates. At least, it was for me. Anyway, here's a few pointers as to what you might be getting yourself into if you find yourself similarly tempted... Be warned - I do like to witter on at length about inconsequential detail, so this post will surely be a lot longer than it needs to be. Driving The hybrid drivetrain in the GS works in exactly the same way as the Prius, except power goes to the rear instead of the front. The battery feels stronger and can go further in milkfloat mode than my Gen3 could, but that may just be because it's a newer car. In Eco or Normal mode, it really does 'feel' the same to drive apart from when you floor the throttle, at which point it does take off at what I found to be a surprisingly rapid pace. In fairness, having spent 3 years in a Gen3 my expectations of acceleration have probably been somewhat recalibrated. The GS is not a fast car by anyone's definition, but it is faster than what I've been used to. There's a Sport mode which doesn't make the car go faster, but it does sharpen the throttle and weight up the steering. In addition, the power meter magically transforms into the world's most pointless rev counter and you can even switch the 'transmission' to manual mode where it makes a hilarious pretence of 'changing gear' using the flappy paddles on the wheel. This was presumably fitted as a sop to journalists and other morons who are congenitally incapable of appreciating the joys of smooth progress which only a CVT can offer. In fairness, the system works about as well as it could do in the circumstances, and certainly means you can make the GS drive like a 'normal' car if you so wish. I just cannot fathom why anyone would want to. Premier spec gets adaptive suspension, which can be summed up as a wasted opportunity. The Sport+ mode works well: it's compliant but still reacts adeptly in corners, and if you're into that sort of thing then you can press on very nicely in a way that you couldn't ever enjoy in a Prius. At least, not a Gen3, anyway. However, I'm not sure why anyone interested in that kind of driving would want to buy a GS 300h as they'd surely be better served by a BMW, or even the 450h. Again, I suspect it was designed to please journalists rather than the people who actually buy these cars. The real problem I have with the system is that Normal mode just isn't different enough from Sport+ for it to seem worthwhile. It's not exactly a harsh ride, but it doesn't absorb bumps as well as I think a car of that size and weight really should. On my commute, where I know every ridge and pothole by heart, it feels marginally better than the Prius on some stretches and actually slightly worse on others. I would have much preferred it if they'd tuned the normal mode more towards the 'comfort' end. Interior Comfort The seats are very, very good. 18-way adjustable, and the passenger gets a fold-out 'ottoman' for lower leg support. The range of adjustment makes a big difference if you are plagued by back problems - the three-way lumbar adjustment is a real boon and compared to the Prius long journeys are much more comfortable. It's not perfect, however: there are three separate memory settings for both driver and passenger seats, but infuriatingly these cannot be accessed on the move! The car has to be in Park before it will change seats to a different memory position, yet manual adjustment remains possible whilst driving. I am sure this has something to do with 'safety' but manual fiddling is far more distracting, and why the restriction applies to the passenger side is simply incomprehensible. I always had a problem with the road noise in the Prius, and felt it was excessively loud for a car of that size. As you would expect, the Lexus is better in this respect. It is not, however, as quiet as reviews might lead you to believe. I suspect that compared to an equivalent 5-series or A6 with a dirty diesel tractoring away up front, the GS is indeed relatively quiet. Wind and engine noise are both nicely suppressed. However, on poor surfaces the tyre roar becomes very noticeable. Given that pretty much all of the UK's road network now has a poor surface, that means it's noisier than I would like for most of the time. I did test drive a lower-spec GS with smaller wheels and - just like when I swapped 17s to 15s on my Gen3 - it was not noticeably quieter. The climate control works exceptionally well. It actually maintains a temperature on chilly mornings (unlike the Prius which would get progressively colder unless I kept upping the temp manually). Also unlike the Prius, it is subtle in both noise and air-speed even on high settings. It can also control the heating and ventilation of the seats automatically and it has a strangely-named 'Nanoe ion filter' that uses some kind of trickery to cool the air without drying it out. That actually works, which means no more dry-eye on long summer journeys, and less chance of the semi-aniline leather seats cracking. Infotainment The Mark Levinson audio system sounds immense, as you would expect. Unlike the (early) Gen3 Prius, there's a USB iPod connection that works properly. Phone connection for Bluetooth streaming is also faultless, as is the import of contacts. The 'mouse' controller for the screen is fiddly, but it's not as bad as some reviews suggest and basic air-con and music functions can be engaged using traditional knobs and buttons anyway. However, the voice control system is an incredible step backwards from the Prius. It simply doesn't work. At all. I presume this is because they've tried to make it clever enough to recognise more than just the handful of phrases the Prius can handle, but they evidently haven't upgraded the hardware to properly support this. It won't recognise any command I speak - it literally just does something completely random every time I attempt to use it. The sat-nav is almost exactly the same as the one on my 2010 Gen3. Its routing is pathetic, the interface (without the touch screen it was originally designed for) is clunky beyond belief, its traffic warnings are hopeless and the maps are so ugly and devoid of interest that I actually find it offensive to display them in what is an otherwise modern, attractive interior. The sooner car makers give up on this nonsense and move to Carplay / Android Auto the better. Fortunately, the nice widescreen display can be configured to replace the map with a good range of trip/economy info - this is actually a lot better than the Gen3 MFD because I can have everything I want on the screen at once without having to cycle through displays. Other Random Observations: Lexus auto wipers are hopeless. The Prius ones were spot-on, and the Auris ones are pretty good. Why Lexus can't just use the same parts is a mystery. It would appear that they even know their system is rubbish, as there's actually a button on the end of the stalk to switch it off. However, they couldn't even get that right because it's supposed to switch it to a traditional 'intermittent' function using the collar but in fact I can only manage to find on, fast and off. A truly baffling fail. In another one of those inexplicable Japanese-manufacturer spec twists, only the Premier spec 300h has a HUD. Coming from the Prius, that meant I ruled out all the other - possibly better value - options because I really didn't want to lose the HUD. Still, the GS is not really a car that you want to be driving in poverty-spec 'SE' trim anyway. And don't be fooled by the 'Luxury' spec, either. It's still missing all the good stuff. Unlike the Prius, the GS won't park itself. It has all the sensing kit fitted, and has a mode where it will tell you what to do step-by-step, but it won't actually turn the wheel itself. Frankly, that's just lazy. I only used the Prius system twice in three years, so I can't say it's a major issue. However, it does seem like another inexplicable step backward. The outside mirror memory positions can be programmed separately for reverse gear. That's a very minor feature but one which I find incredibly useful for my daily 'precision parking' feat in the garage. Every car should be able to do this. The automated boot lid is stupid. There's no sensor, so it requires you to fumble round for the button and then hauls itself up so slowly you try to yank it up yourself, at which point it starts wrestling with you. And, in what is undoubtedly another daft 'safety' move, it's possible to open the boot from inside the car but if you want to shut it again you actually have to get out and push the button on the lid. Which means the only entertaining thing you could do with it - i.e. amusing the car behind by opening and closing it when stopped in traffic - is sadly ruled out. Economy: The big question, perhaps, for anyone coming from a Prius is how the GS compares in terms of fuel economy. Clearly it's not going to match the Gen3, let alone the Gen4, but how close can it get? Not very, is the answer if you just look at the mpg figures alone. I'm averaging around 15-20mpg less than my Gen3. My commute has seen me averaging low 60s on the GS's MFD at this time of year, which would have been high 70s / low 80s in the Prius. Real figures will be a handful of mpg lower in both cars. Outside of the average performance, it's clear that the GS really doesn't have the headroom to get silly numbers like the Prius does, which is perhaps understandable given the 2.5 litres of displacement and all that extra weigh to shift. My best journey average (32 miles) in the GS is an indicated 66mpg - my best on the same journey in the Prius was 93mpg. Although to be fair I only saw 90+ averages in the Prius a handful of times in 3 years whereas I am regularly hitting 63-65 journey averages in the GS. The thing is, because of the way mpg calculations work when you're up beyond 50mpg, doing 20mpg less might sound like a lot but it doesn't actually cost me that much more to fuel. My weekly trip of ~332 miles costs me somewhere in the region of £6 - £7 more. That's 2p a mile or thereabouts. For most people who aren't blessed with my eco-friendly commute - and who probably aren't prepared to devote the same concentrated effort to achieving high figures - I suspect the difference will still work out to be similar. If you're getting mid 50s out of a Prius as many people do, you'll probably get mid 40s from the GS as it doesn't seem to drop that much when driven normally. On a recent trip to the north east I still averaged over 52mpg with lots of hills, lots of motorways and very few concessions to eco-driving. And there is one huge advantage over the Prius when it comes to filling up: you don't have to do it very often! The GS fuel tank was designed for the much thirstier 6-cylinder 450h and 250 models which means I can see close to 700 miles before the warning light shows. Conclusions: My main disappointment with the GS is that it's not as quiet or as comfortable as it should be, and there are a raft of minor quibbles that Lexus really could - and should - have designed out. None of these have been fixed in the 2016 facelift, either. However, I did a couple of extended test drives and knew what I was getting beforehand so I can't really complain. If you harbour a pathological dislike of diesels like I do, choices for a large comfortable car that won't break the bank to run are somewhat limited. I've heard it said that 'you really have to hate diesels to choose a hybrid.' Well, I do. And given that self-imposed constraint, I am happy with my purchase. There are a couple of other things which I haven't mentioned that also add to the satisfaction of ownership. One is that it's a seriously rare sight on the roads, to the extent that it doesn't seem to carry any associations for other motorists. Has there been less open antipathy and aggression around me than there was in the Prius? It certainly feels that way, although that could just be my imagination. Another plus - and one which has proved to be far more of a positive than I ever thought it would be - could probably be termed the 'quality ambience' of the interior. That sort of feeling is all new to me. I've spent years driving Japanese motors with terrible plastic interiors and they've never really bothered me, but the GS is a real step up. It's basically a scaled-down LS interior using the same materials, which interestingly are of tangibly better quality than those found in the CT, IS and even the nice new RC coupe. I have been surprised at just how much of a difference this makes, in terms of it being a nice place to spend time in. I'm not sure what that now says about me as a nouveau materials-snob, but I do know that I'd find it hard to go back to low-rent plastics and rattles when it's time to move on again. That urinal in the Gen4 looks even less appealing now than it did before! So, the long and the short of it is that the GS is flawed, and certainly not as good as it could or should be, but for someone who loves the whole hybrid driving experience it's still a satisfying ownership prospect. If you're thinking of moving on from a Prius, it may be worth a look. :)
  36. 5 points
    So got around to looking at the old Carina E at the weekend, shes a 1996 1.6 gli (4A-FE) Liftback model - one owner since new, 191000 on the clock, my father parked it up about 5 years ago as he picked up another car and its been growing moss ever since. Charged the battery over night but it wasn't strong enough to get the engine to crank so threw it out and got one from the breaker - stuck it in and she started first time! impressive. The wing mirror had been knocked off before it was parked up and tapped on, so got one on ebay, think it cost £5 - got that put on. So its going to be my new project - needs a few more bits before i consider testing her. Engine management light is on so will try get the code from that and see whats up. Exhaust is blowing - the hole is in end section - anyone know if an exhaust from a Generation 1 Avensis would suit? I saw one at the breakers at the weekend. She will be due a belt after being sat there that long. Also the door rubber on drivers door has broken at the top so will need replacing. Breakers yard again i think. Also i noticed after she ran for a while after warm-up, she seemed to mis-fire, struggled. not cutting out just not running right. Maybe an injector? I see that they can give a bit of trouble. I will do as much as i can myself, but my knowledge is basic enough, e.g. oil, filters, plugs, brakes etc - but wouldn't dream of doing a belt change etc. Interior is immaculate in this car. No pets, kids, smokers etc since new. Paint is red so its faded now. Will read up on cutting/rubbing compounds etc to bring her back. Bonnet however has large patches where the lacquer has lifted to will see if i can get another red one or else paint it. Will post a few pics when i get a chance and also keep progress report on here. Thanks for reading.
  37. 5 points
    ...Lexus CT200h. I have to hand the keys to the Prius back in August, and was minded to replace it with an Auris HSD, but the dates don't work for me to order the new one. After much deliberation, I've ordered a CT-200h Luxury instead, which is actually a cheaper car than my fully-spec-ed Prius. The Prius sold me completely on the idea of a hybrid, and I've considered nothing else. But it'll be nice to have one that's better screwed together and doesn't rattle like a tea tray.
  38. 5 points
    Perhaps I'm missing something, but where is the harm in that? It wasn't getting heated, offensive or personal from what I could see, where else would / could the thread have gone? On another car forum I'm a member of as long as the OP has been answered then threads going off topic are never much of an issue, its even part of the fun and circle of learning imo. After all, face to face conversation in the pub etc is all about diverging and chatting about different things etc isn't it? Especially when its remaining remotely section related.
  39. 5 points
    This may seem a bit old hat now...a review of the old shape Auris hybrid but I gained much insight on this forum from other posters, before buying the car, so wish to return the benefit for other potential buyers and to compare notes with fellow owners. Obviously, the car is not new. This is a 61 plate T-Spirit model with 18k on the clock. I cover approx. 17k annually so was looking for a medium sized car with proven reliability and low running costs (aren't we all!) My work commute consists of a 60 mile round trip, roughly divided into three sections of urban driving, dual carriageway driving and twisty country B roads with many deceptive inclines and descents on route. My previous car was a 2.2 diesel Mazda but I wanted to move away from modern diesels with their potential problems of DPF blockage, flywheel failure, blown turbos and ever stricter emissions (and yes, my Mazda was starting to suffer from some of these issues). This left me to focus on either a small, high-powered `tsi type` petrol engine or another hybrid. I had previously owned a gen 2 prius for a short while. I traded it in (for a diesel!) as I found the 1.5 engine and 74 bhp underpowered for my journey and I guess I was a little fazed by the hybrid technology. In hindsight, I was probably a little hasty and never gave it the benefit of the doubt. So, after analysing what felt like every car on the market, everything pointed towards an Auris hybrid. With the improved 1.8 engine, it ticked all the boxes and, having owned more Toyotas than any other make in my 35 years driving, I felt like I was heading back to familiar ground. With free road tax, the remainder of a five year warranty and petrol prices cheaper than diesel, I immediately gained three benefits before even driving the car! Having now covered my first thousand miles in the car, I can now give my initial impressions. The good points... As expected, the drive is incredibly smooth with seamless changes from the engine (though I still need to stop myself from reaching for the gear lever!) Whilst the performance will never match the torque and 150bhp of my previous car (and the output doesn't feel like 134bhp either) the car has enough to keep up with traffic and I`ve never had to `floor` the accelerator yet so there is clearly more in reserve, a massive improvement over the old 1.5 engine. There`s a kind of perverse sense of satisfaction to be had when stuck in traffic. Even other cars fitted with stop/start technology need to fire up the starter motor and use fuel to creep forward whereas the hybrid motor uses not a drop. This is even more satisfying when alongside a big 4x4, guzzling fuel and belching out fumes. The bad points........... Haven`t really encountered any bad points yet, though there are a few niggles... The small boot and awkward shape has been well documented. This has now been rectified in the new shape model but gen1 owners just have to live with this. However, I`ve noticed the recess in the boot floor handily stops your shopping bags from sliding around so maybe Toyota stumbled onto something here! The constant beeping in reverse can be annoying, especially as my previous car had parking sensors so you`re expecting the tone to change as you near something, but I understand Toyota can change this to a single beep so I`ll ask for this at the next service. By far the biggest annoyance is the constantly illuminated `airbag on` light on the centre console. Surely common sense would dictate you should only be warned when the airbag is turned off. I find this a stupid design and cannot see the point of it. Unfortunately, not a lot can be done about it. But, as you can see, none of the above are `dealbreakers`, just niggles and annoyances that never stopped me buying the car. And the big question...the MPG! I hardly use the EV mode, find it`s more of a gimmick to show off really, though conversely, I`ve hardly used the Power mode either, as this would obviously affect fuel consumption (it`s funny how you suddenly become obsessed with mpg once you buy one of these !) I find the Eco mode made very little difference on my driving route though I could understand the benefits of using it if heavy traffic is anticipated. In general then, I just leave it in its default setting and let the engine do the thinking! I`ve filled the car three times so far, each one being a `brim-to-brim check. First fill equated to 58mpg, second at 57 and the most recent at 60. Part of me was expecting a little more than this, especially as this is the warmest part of year (so this will be as good as it gets) but, considering the different types of driving encountered on my commute, its quite impressive and easily beats the 48-50mpg of my previous car. Like all cars, I expect this to drop over the colder months and, even if it drops as low as 50, an average of 55 over the year for a medium sized petrol hatchback is good enough in anyone`s book. I should stress that the above has been achieved with `normal` driving and just keeping up with traffic flow / overtaking slow moving vehicles etc. I`m sure if I started to adopt proper hypermiling driving techniques these figures could be easily improved upon. So far so good then....... Now looking ahead to see how it`s going to perform when the bad weather comes and who knows...I may even get to press that Power button! Amazingly, even in the short spell of ownership, people still ask `is it electric?` or `do you need to plug it in?` Hybrids still have a long way to convince the majority but full marks to Toyota for persevering with this technology. With ever stricter emission controls (and the struggles for diesel manufacturers to reliably keep up with them) it`s interesting that even the `aspirational` marques like Audi and BMW are now starting to go down the hybrid road but....the car in front is Toyota!! For those who have got this far, thanks for reading. I hope this review will help any potential future hybrid owners and it would be interesting to hear from other owners to compare notes.
  40. 5 points
    To lift the spirits a bit, I just would like to mention that we took delivery of a brand spanking new iQ2 this week. It's awesome squared! (See what I did there?:) I've wanted to get one since they came out but my requirements have prevented me from getting one. Now my mother in law got one and my kids thinks it's the coolest car on the planet. Yay! So it may be a doomed model but it is loved and not dead yet... Sent from my iPhone
  41. 5 points
    I believe you are experiencing this: Technical Service Bulletin EG-0014T-0114 Subject:1AD-FTV V-Belt abnormal noise Models:AURIS; AVENSIS; COROLLA; VERSO Model codes:ADE150; ADE157; ADE186; ADT250; ADT251; ADT270;ADT271; ADE150; AUR20; AUR21 INTRODUCTIONThis Technical Service Bulletin is to inform you of a revision to the BELT, V-RIBBED. DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENONSome customers may experience and report squeaking/rattling noise from BELT, V-RIBBED around1500~2000rpm, due to slipping of the belt on the pulleys. PRODUCTION CHANGEThe design of the BELT, V-RIBBED has been changed to avoid slipping. Go to your local dealer refer them to this bulletin and get the modified belt fitted, I have had plenty of people reporting this issue only on 2012/2013 2.0d4d models and all of them have been cured with this modified belt.
  42. 5 points
    Some further observations: Those 14,400 miles have been driven almost entirely on the same route and it is definitely a route which is conducive to hybrid driving. My commute takes me from west Suffolk into north Essex and back. It's a journey of 31-32 miles depending on which route I follow but whichever way I go it's mostly A-road and B-road single carriageway with stretches of stop-start traffic-light town congestion at one end in the morning and at both ends in the evening. There's a couple of miles of dual-carriageway in there as well. The terrain is rolling hills rather than flat but there are only two hills which could be considered steep. The speed limit is also highly variable, with quite a few 30-limit villages and 40-zones. We have had a mild winter this year which will undoubtedly have helped the average significantly; I travel quite early in the morning but have still only seen sub-zero temps on a handful of occasions. The car is also garaged, so I don't have to worry about defrosting/demisting before setting off, which for some people will be a significant drain on economy if they have to leave the engine running. In terms of techniques, the following are what I have found to be successful. Running 40psi tyre pressures all round. I've done this in cars for years to improve steering response and even out tyre wear. It also benefits economy significantly.Constant forward planning to minimise braking e.g. maintaining a substantial gap from the car in front to soak up their binary-throttle speed variations. Acceleration is what knocks mpg. The less you brake, the less you need to accelerate afterwards.Coasting down early to junctions and lower speed limits. In fact, coasting as much as possible using very gentle pressure on the throttle to prevent regeneration. Using Eco mode permanently. This makes the throttle much easier to manage, once you get used to the lack of response. I never touch the EV mode button unless I want to move the car on the drive without starting the ICE. Using aircon all the way through the summer to keep cool as it makes the grand sum of NO difference whatsoever in my experience. However, unless it's really cold in winter I do leave the heater off for the first part of my journey home as I'm stuck dead in traffic and the ICE will just run constantly to provide heat if I switch it on.Using the HUD eco meter to maintain awareness of throttle position and staying away from the Power zone at all times, even when pulling away from stationary. I am patient at junctions when pulling out - I'll wait for a gap which doesn't require me to mash the throttle, unless there are folks waiting behind me. However, I have found that accelerating 'briskly' (i.e. with the eco meter just underneath the Power zone) is better than dragging it up to cruising speed on minimal throttle.Not exceeding 65mph on dual-carriageways and not exceeding 50mph on NSL single-carriageways. The latter is probably the only controversial aspect of my driving as I'm 10mph below the limit and people have to overtake if they wish to pass. However, on my route I can justify it because it is never long before we catch up a lorry or pensioner travelling at <40mph, meaning my responsibility for anyone's delay is temporary. If there's nobody behind me at all, I won't maintain a constant speed but will instead let the terrain have more of a say i.e. letting the speed drop right down when going uphill and letting it run higher when descending. There's nothing radical here at all in my view but equally I fully appreciate that not everyone would be comfortable driving the same way. For me, having bought an economical car, I'm happy to try to get the best out of it by driving economically. Anyway, for my next experiment... I intend to find out just how much of a difference wheels and tyres can make to fuel efficiency. I've been running the standard 17" T-Spirit wheels with Michelin Primacy tyres (C-rated for economy) up until now. However, I've just ordered a set of 15" alloys and will be fitting Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance tyres which are B-rated. As my commute and driving style will remain the same, I should be able to isolate the wheel/tyre impact quite clearly.
  43. 5 points
    Just like to say a big thank you to Tarquin (David) for all his help. With doing my automatic mirrors that are great and my new interior bright light. Cheers David You are a very clever chap Thanks john
  44. 5 points
    Incase you're still undecided………… I came across this….
  45. 5 points
    First of all – it’s worth remembering that this isn’t the first time that Toyota has come up against the issue of heavy oil consumption. In the not too distant past there were significant problems with the VVti petrol engine – particularily the 1.8 litre version as fitted to the likes of the Celica. In the early 2000’s cars fitted with similar engines – such as the Avensis suffered serious problems to such a degree that some owners were bulk buying oil in 25litre drums. There was much denial that a problem existed but eventually Toyota, in a low key way, introduced a 7 year, 112000mile extended warranty against the oil consumption issue. Initially dealers attempted to fit new pistons / rings but after mixed success – moved to fitting new / reconditioned short motors to affected cars. Does this sound familiar to many of you? With petrol engines however, there were few consequential issues – it was really a case of the cost and inconvenience of high oil consumption. Owners often added to their problems by using products claimed to reduce oil consumption and often used the cheapest oil they could find whatever the spec! The cause of the problem resulted from the drive to increase power and efficiency by reducing weight and friction. The understanding is that the oil control ring on the piston was a fairly flimsy item which was subject to excessive wear so with a few thousand miles on the clock – the oil control rings became inefficient and excessive oil got into the combustion chamber. Move on a few years and it appears that Toyota’s oil issue with petrol engines has been sorted but a similar problem raises it’s head for the first time on a diesel – the AD engine fitted to several Toyota models including the Rav4. With a diesel the consequential problems are far more significant than a petrol – including failed head gaskets, blocked EGR systems etc. Toyotas eventual response was exactly the same as previous – a warranty extension to 7 years / 112000 miles. The action level on oil consumption was 0.5litre/1000km as previously. Again Toyota tackled the problem on affected cars by replacing pistons / rings but with mixed results and eventually fitted new / reconditioned short motors. When these engines are stripped – the heavy build up of carbon and degraded oil on the piston crown and cylinder head is pretty obvious. Carbon gets into the ring grooves and there’s evidence of restriction in the drains holes behind the oil control rings. Our choice to resolve the problem is to fit new Kolbenschmidt pistons and rings. Generally it’s possible to fit standard size pistons and glaze bust / cross hatch the bores but ovality can be an issue at high mileage. In this case we’d bore +0.5mm and fit oversize pistons. It’s also possible to re-sleeve the bores – not something I’ve done on this engine. There are other options in terms of piston choice including Toyota parts but Kolbenschmidt are superb pistons but are expensive. For a retail customer – total cost would be around £2000 which would include the work described above, refacing the head, all new gaskets and seals, all new bearings, new timing belt / tensioner / coolant pump, reconditioned oil pump, machine polish crankshaft journals, clean / test injectors, lubricants/ consumables /coolant, ultrasonic cleaning and solvent flush of the block, remove / install engine. The bottom line of all this is that a local engine machine shop can recondition your engine (look for an FER member). It’s not cheap, but worth it if you’ve got a Rav which is otherwise good, and you’d like to keep it – may be a much better option than a p.ex + £2000 tradeup!
  46. 5 points
    Listen folks, I'm not into having a public slanging match with a fellow mod but this subject effects everyone and your opinion will shape the outcome and the future of the club. I sincerely apologise if it seems unprofessional but I think this needs to be aired openly - especially as this thread was posted to labour a point. I will be asking Steve, the forum owner to contact me over weekend.
  47. 5 points
    There is a strong link between DMF / clutch failure and engine failure on some cars but not on the Rav. It's possible to turn over an engine when a cambelt has snapped but it's unusual for all cylinders to be affected. The first check is to see if the camshaft is turning when the crankshaft is turned by hand. This will determine whether the cambelt has failed - belts can fail prematurely due to poor fitting, oil contamination or a poor quality belt. Compression tests on diesels can give misleading results. If the measurement is made via the glow plug hole - the action of the injector can affect the results. Often pipework and adaptors are used to connect a gauge - this can increase the compression volume significantly giving a false low reading.
  48. 5 points
    Loads of tests have been done on brands of oil filters - Google "oil filter comparison". Some filters can have double the filter media area of others for the same application and there can be a vast difference in the quality of the internal bypass valve. Generally car manufacturer brand filters come out well, so it's worth going for the genuine item if possible. The ones to avoid are third division brands, often originating from China, and sold at ridiculously low prices (some cartridge filters can be bought trade for less than £1). Many dealers recognise that service items are readily and widely available elsewhere and, as such, they tend to discount these items to get them to a broadly competitive price. Unfortunately Toyota dealers tend not to be as generous as some others.
  49. 5 points
    Q: I am new to the site but I am unable to edit my profile. How can I edit my profile information? A: As part of spam prevention we have resticted profile editing for members who have never posted on the club. If you have never posted here before and wish to edit your profile then we suggest you make one post on the club and then your profile information will become available. This prevents spammers signing up and adding spam links in their profile. To help keep the forums clean and of good quality we have to take these steps in order to conquer spammers.
  50. 5 points
    From my experience, watch out for initial driver error with some of the more novel control interface features of the Prius. Here is my top 10 list of things to watch out for... 1) Get used to releasing the parking brake by your foot. In the early days of owning the car, I forgot to do this a couple of times and drove off with the car bleeping at me until I realised the sin I had committed. 2) Drive selector forward = reverse. Not forward. Reverse. I have my car programmed to only emit one bleep while reversing instead of a continuous bleeping. So I nearly got caught out a couple of times when I put the selector into the wrong position and didn't register the bleep. Thankfully I realised my mistake before any damage was done. (It helps if you try to move off slowly and steadily.) Oh yes, allied to the above... 3) Bleeps. The car will bleep at you quite a bit for various reasons (sounds like it is trying to swear at you but the very polite Japanese manufacturer put a CENSOR feature in there to bleep out the words!) It takes a while to realise what is going on in each instance. HINT: never let a passenger remove a seatbelt while the car is anything more mobile than absolutely stationary. The car will go more berserk than John McInroe on Centre Court. 4) The car engine is silent. (Even the ICE = Internal Combustion Engine is very quiet. But the electric engine is much better at that - even quieter than a teenager trying to sneak upstairs at 2AM without awakening his parents.) So it can be all too easy to park the car and get out with the engine still running. Don't worry, this is another instance of the aforementioned CENSORED swearing to let you know what you have done. 5) Trying to lock the car while the keyfob is still inside it. Yep, another coin in the swear box. 6) Distracted pedestians who try to decorate your bonnet because they don't hear you coming when you are in stealth (aka EV) mode. This is an opportunity for you to show the car how swearing really can be done. Or a swift toot of the horn if you want to be a bit more Japanese and polite about the whole affair. 7) Don't cover over the hybrid battery cooling vent in the rear seat. Not that I've tried this. But I understand a nuclear explosion follows and The World Will End Horribly. (Actually, I'm just kidding about the world ending bit. At least, I think I am.) 8) Hypermiling. Bet you never even heard of the term before. But now you have a Prius, you are in a prime position to be bitten by The Hypermiling Bug. Symptoms include: - muttering Star-Trek dialogue like "warp stealth" and "pulse and glide" - avidly swapping MPG figures with other drivers - feeling relaxed when other drivers overtake you - driving with one eye glued on the HSI (Hybrid System Indicator) trying to get that elusive extra 0.1 onto the gauge. Trust me, this will happen. I found the best tactic was to accept it and program the HUD to display both speed and miniature HSI. That way, at least I get to keep my eyes on the road while watching the HSI. 9) Wolf in sheep's clothing syndrome. Usually manifested by burning off allegedly "faster" cars at the traffic lights, just so you can see the surprised look on their faces as your milk float (you did say "Pearl White", didn't you?) zooms away in front of them. 10) Jealousy. From other drivers. Owning a Prius means you will be discovering new features every day that will bring a smile to your face and a lightness to your wallet. But there are ways you can cope with discussions with other motorists. Smile disarmingly at them when they mutter about the congestion charge. Click your tongue sympathetically when they moan about their annual car tax. Nod understandingly when they complain about the spiralling price of fuel. Roll your eyes heavenward along with them as they talk about the stress of sitting in stop-start traffic with their diesel clattering and their DPF clogging. Tilt your head to one side with a suitable smile of understanding while they whinge about having to squeeze their six foot sons into a small manual gearbox city car, "Because that's the only way you can get decent fuel consumption figures nowadays." Oh, and above all else... ENJOY

  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up