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  1. 9 points
    I am now the proud owner of a 17-plate Prius PHV in Hypersonic Red. Generally speaking, I don’t like red cars, but for some reason I like this one. I'm sure I will be posting more about it in due course. Here's a nice picture of it: However, the process of getting to the stage where this particular car is sitting on my drive has been nothing less than tortuous. What I was expecting to be a joyful process full of anticipatory excitement turned out to be an arduous and depressing slog, as my wife and I travelled hundreds of miles around the country seeking the 'right' car, only to discover an almost-uniformly awful experience at each Toyota dealership we visited. I should perhaps point out that this is likely to be a long post, written more for my own cathartic benefit than for anyone else's interest, so here’s the tl;dr up front, to save you the effort of reading through the drivel beneath: Uninterested, uninformed dealers making half-hearted attempts to sell cars, often in worryingly-dubious condition, for staggeringly random prices. Anyway, if you do want to read on, here's the unexpurgated version. It's not pretty... To start with, what the juddering hell is the deal with pricing on these cars? It's insane. Brand spanking new Prius Excel PHVs are available through Carwow for £27.5k, so why would anyone pay more than that for a used one with a few thousand miles on it? Yet we found tens for sale, well above that price point. The bizarrely specific numbers like £28,471 suggested some kind of machine-learning algorithm at play. I can only assume this was locked in some kind of infinite rank-ordering comparison loop, as I actually saw individual vehicle prices going up as well as down in the time I was monitoring them. Unsurprisingly, these optimistically-priced specimens are all still for sale now, having spent months on forecourts already. I am utterly baffled at what is happening here. Even more mystifying was the price differential between apparently identical cars. We found cars with the same specs, age and mileage, for sale at up to £5k difference in sticker price. In one case, this difference was between two cars at the same dealership! Granted, the cheaper one was in Dishwasher White but even so, you've got to really hate kitchen appliances to pay five large more for Decuma Grey, right? Price had seemingly no bearing on condition, either. And, on the subject of condition, the state we found some of these cars in was shockingly poor, given that they were all Toyota Approved cars with minimal miles, less than 18 months old. The first one we saw had done fewer than 2,000 miles yet looked like it had done ten times that; it was covered in scratches inside and out, with big chips of paint missing from the front bumper. The driver's door looked like it had repeatedly been opened into a brick wall, and was down to the bare metal along its edge. Yet the conversation that followed went roughly like this: "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "Okay, but if we agree to buy it, will you get your bodyshop to sort the worst bits of the paintwork out before we collect?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "That’s a no, then?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "And you're not prepared to make any kind of reduction to account for the poor condition, to cover the cost of getting it sorted ourselves?" "The car is priced taking its condition into account." "Right. Bye, then." Then there was the one that turned out to have done over 3,000 miles more than advertised, with a replacement windscreen that had somehow been re-fitted with no seals around it, leaving huge gaps and the plastic scuttle flapping in the breeze, along with two strips of glue residue on the roof from where they'd used the wrong tape to hold it in. "Don't worry, we'll get the workshop to look at the windscreen and get it sorted for you before you pick up the car." "Right. Would that be the same workshop that made such a godforsaken mess of it the first time around?" "Er, yes..." "Er, bye then." And then there was the one that had a big dent in the lower side panel, and which had been run by the dealership boss for 18 months but somehow hadn't been serviced at all in that time. "Don't worry, we'll fix the dent with a bit of filler and we'll service it before you buy it. The manufacturer's warranty will be fine." "You mean the warranty that Toyota specifically state will not be fine, as any items which fail in future as a possible result of lack of servicing will not be covered?" "No, it will be fine. Let me get my service manager to explain why both you and the Toyota website are wrong about this." "No, let me get my coat, and remind me never to assume that Toyota dealers understand their own service intervals and warranty conditions." Still, if some of the cars were poor, the actual experiences and interactions in the showrooms were worse. Here's a flavour of what we endured: Being left waiting for ages whilst the salesman 'found the best price' for my car, only for him to finally come out and offer £1k less than we both knew it was worth. Pro-tip: We all know you can look up a valuation in 30 seconds. If you're going to bid me in the nuts for my car, at least have the common decency not to make me wait for half an hour before you do. Especially not when you're keeping me from my lunch. Being seated directly in front of glass pane windows, squinting into the baking sun, in a showroom that inexplicably didn't have air conditioning, waiting for the salesperson to arrive whilst being forcibly engaged in toe-curlingly banal conversation by a painfully enthusiastic teenager wearing a badge that actually – I kid you not – gave his job title as Host. Pro-tip. Try to ensure you offer a buying experience that doesn't run the risk of contravening the Geneva Convention as a form of cruel and unusual punishment. You may just sell more cars. Being told that the person I'd agreed to meet at the specified time wasn't available, being asked to wait until someone else could see us, then being dealt with by a surly, uncommunicative teenager who had no interest in selling the car and whose knowledge about the product he was supposed to be persuading us to buy was utterly non-existent. He even checked his phone a few times during our conversation. Pro-tip: If you really must employ useless millennials who can't grasp the concept of turning up at an agreed time and place, at least make sure the backup isn't a social media addict from Generation Zombie. Being told that the dealership couldn't provide a valuation for my car at all, unless I first agreed I would definitely buy their car from them and not go elsewhere. Pro-tip. That. Is. Not. How. It. Works. You've just let me walk away, and I will not be coming back. Ever. You can call me all you like the day after. But, just as you discovered, I won't be answering. Being told that my wife couldn't sit next to me in the front for the test drive as the salesman had to be there in case he needed to 'grab the wheel' when I was driving. Pro-tip: Try to avoid insulting your customer's driving ability before they've even got in the car. Oh, and never let my wife ride behind you when you've just ****** her off. We nearly did crash in the end, because I was too busy laughing at her in the rear view mirror as she made gestures behind your back suggesting your proclivity for indulging in onanistic pleasure. Frankly, you were lucky she didn't garotte you with your spivvy skinny tie. Being told that there was 'no room for negotiation' on the initial cost to change you offered. Pro-tip: There is always room for negotiation. Otherwise *cough* you might end up with your car still on your forecourt, at a *cough* considerably reduced price that is now hilariously less than what I was actually willing to pay you weeks ago. Ha ha ha and, indeed, ha. Being told on the phone that I had to pay a £100 'refundable deposit' in order to make sure the car would be available to view the next day. Pro-tip: Wait, what? I don't even… kthxbye. Even when we actually found a car in decent nick that wasn't horrifically overpriced, defective or abused, it was a struggle to complete the purchase. I think it was the young salesman's first ever experience of dealing with someone who didn't want finance. Or possibly just his first ever experience of selling a car. He was giddy with excitement, which was actually quite endearing at first. We finally agreed a price that I was happy to pay, shook hands on the deal, then he went round the back to get the paperwork. All seemed to be going well. Then he returned, looking very sheepish and informed us that we'd have to pay £1 more than we'd just agreed. He explained that he'd exceeded the amount by which he was 'allowed' to discount the car, so would we mind paying a pound more? After my wife and I realised that he wasn't actually joking, we obviously told him to do one. A gentleman does not renege on a handshake, FFS! However, I did generously agree to sign the paperwork for the higher amount if he gave me a quid from his own pocket there and then. Panicking now, and not having any cash himself, he was out of ideas so I suggested he went round the back for a whip-round. I fully expected him to return with a handful of loose change. However, he eventually came back having apparently got permission to put the lower amount through on the card machine whilst keeping the extra £1 on the paperwork. Seriously, that happened. In all honesty, if we hadn't have closed the deal on that one then we'd probably have just thrown in the towel and bought a brand new one on finance. I have a sneaky suspicion that this may actually have been Toyota's plan all along: overprice your used stock and make the buying-for-cash experience so awful that people give up and finance a new one instead. I’m glad we didn't, as I've ended up with what seems to be a decent example, obtained in the end for a fair price. But next time? I'm not sure I'll have the energy. I might just have to accept that long-term ownership is a dying scene, and give in and join the masses on their 3-year contracts and monthly payments...
  2. 5 points
    Lots of debate this time of year whether winter tyres or not. On 29th Jan 2019 it dumped with snow over the snake pass in the Peaks with very expensive 4x4's on their standard summer tyres failing to get over the top and even making the point of winding down their window to tell me that I had no chance on making it as they had tried twice & failed. I had lots of surprised faces when I passed them all and I was the only one over the top at 3pm on Tuesday afternoon - Winter tyres are the way forward if you live in an area that gets is bad!
  3. 5 points
    I cannot for the life of me understand why people are obsessed with range/segments/miles per tank etc etc, drives me nuts! Here is a tip for you all. Fill the tank, when it gets to a half or quarter tank, go to the fuel station and fill it up again, no stress, no strain, job done
  4. 5 points
    This post is designed to give a basic overview of modern Toyota Diesel engines and their commonly troublesome components: How does a Diesel engine work? Firstly Diesel is not as flammable as Petrol. Diesel engines don’t have spark plugs to ignite the fuel, but to bring about combustion they require heat. If you put your finger over the end of a foot pump and pump it, your finger will become hot. This is due to compression of the air trapped inside the pump (the air molecules have less space to move about and collide with each other more frequently causing energy to be given off in the form of heat). The same thing happens in a diesel engine: as the piston moves upwards, the air trapped inside is compressed, causing it to heat up (the temperature reached is circa 400 degrees C). Just before the piston reaches the top of its' stroke, the pump and injectors spray a very fine mist of diesel into the piston chamber. The intense heat of the trapped air in the piston causes the diesel to ignite, forcing the piston down and producing the power stroke which goes through the engine via the gearbox / wheels etc etc and off you go. What are Glow Plugs? When internal sensors detect that the core of the engine block has reached a certain designated temperature, or when a certain amount of time elapses, the glowplug relay switches off the "wait-to-start" light. A pre-heating cycle usually lasts for 2 to 5 seconds. The driver then turns the key to the "start" position. The glowplug relay switches off the glowplugs after the engine is running. In some newer cars, glow plugs continue to operate for up to 180 seconds after engine start to keep the engine within emissions regulations, as combustion efficiency is greatly reduced when the engine is very cold. Link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug As glow plugs wear out the vehicle will be more difficult to start, run poorly and produce a white/bluey smoke. Glow Plugs are a reasonably cheap to replace. What is D4D? D4D is Toyota’s version of Common Rail Diesel. The term "common rail" refers to the fact that all of the fuel injectors are supplied by a common fuel rail which is nothing more than a pressure accumulator where the fuel is stored at high pressure. This accumulator supplies multiple fuel injectors with high pressure fuel. Modern common rail systems, are governed by an engine control unit (ECU) which opens each injector electronically rather than mechanically. What are Injectors? Fuel injectors are a key part of modern automotive systems, as they're responsible for getting fuel into the engine in a precise, orderly and carefully engineered pattern. Unfortunately, the conditions we drive in are not ideal. Pollution is in the air, and fuel can be contaminated with water, dirt particles and other debris. Regularly changing your fuel filter (according to change interval in your service book) will help keep debris from circulating. You can also add fuel injector cleaner to your fuel tank, which may help solve running issues. Doing this at regular intervals of 10,000 miles or so might provide more cleansing than your engine actually needs, but it shouldn’t harm the system. Injector Cleaner can't improve your car beyond its original factory spec. When injectors fail there are generally two approaches to repair, take the vehicle to a main dealer and have the whole set (£1000+) replaced or find a diesel specialist who may be able to replace or repair individual injectors (circa £250 each) after testing. Fuel Injector problem symptoms include, poor starting, rough running, loss of power, black or white smoke. It is generally known that injectors will need attention after 100,000 miles. What is a Turbo? Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the turbocharging. When Turbo’s are failing they will typically cause the car to have a loss of power, excessive smoke and in some cases a high pitched whine. Turbo’s can often be repaired bya turbo specialists or replaced with a new unit, obviously a repair is cheaper. What is an SCV? SCV's (Suction Control Valves) are used in Common Rail diesel engines to control the pressure of the fuel in the accumulator. The pressure is varied by the ECU by controlling how much fuel the pump feeds into the accumulator, replacing the fuel as it is delivered into the engine by the injectors. Low pressure for the injectors at idle, high pressure at maximum power. Electrically operated, SCVs can need to open and close at up to 200 times per second and if they stick or fail to open properly then poor running, starting and power loss can occur. Sticking when hot is often cited as a cause of hot starting problems. D4D pumps may have one or two of these valves depending on the type of pump fitted, this is important when ordering the correct parts. Vehicles commonly affected by this have the 1CD-FTV 2.0 D4D Engine 2000-2005, found on RAV4/Avensis/Corolla built between these dates. This article SCV's on the RAV4 Forum provides an overview of the location and parts on a two valve pump. These parts are typically £250 to replace + fitting if required. What is an EGR Valve? Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is a nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions reduction technique used in modern engines, EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. After a while the gases containing dirty, sooty carbons start to cover and coat the intake area and valves causing the air to fuel ratio to become unbalanced thus resulting in more black smoke being emitted from the exhaust. This black smoke is then drawn back into the air intake via the EGR valve. A vicious cycle then starts with the engine producing more smoke and sootier carbons being drawn into the intake, a major problem. Symptoms of EGR issues include lack of power, engine hesitancy and then a surge of power followed by black sooty smoke. A fall in fuel economy may also occur. On most Toyota engines the valve is easily removed and cleaned, a dealer will charge an hours labour to do the same job. If the valve fails it will cost around £300 to be supplied and fitted by Mr T. If the vehicle is used continually then carbon clogging could eventually lead to head gasket failure on AD engines, please review the attached document to see if your car has one of these engines.AD Head Gaskets.pdf A simple method of trying to keep the EGR valve clean is to drive the vehicle (once warm) hard by bringing the revs near to the red line, this will result in black soot leaving the exhaust, continue this until the soot no longer appears. This should be a weekly event. This is also known as an Italian Tune Up. Personally as my 2.2 D4D Verso is out of warranty i clean the EGR every 10k, this a superb guide http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=106241 What is D-Cat? D-CAT (Diesel Clean Advanced Technology) is Toyota’s version of a diesel particulate filter (DPF) which is a device designed to remove soot from the exhaust gas of a diesel engine. The soot created by the engine is burnt off during the regeneration process, this process uses fuel which is added by an additional injector, this additional fuel usage reduces MPG when compared with vehicles that dont have a DPF. The regeneration process occurs at road speeds higher than can generally be attained during urban usage ,vehicles driven exclusively at low speeds in urban traffic will require periodic trips at higher speeds to clean out the DPF. On cars with a very high sixth gear the engine revs may be too low to generate sufficient exhaust temperature for regeneration. Occasional harder driving in lower gears should be sufficient to burn off the soot in such cases. With this type of DPF regeneration will be initiated by the ECU every 300 miles or so depending on vehicle use and will take 10 to 15 minutes at 40MPH+ to complete. You shouldn't notice anything other than perhaps a puff of white smoke from the exhaust when the process is completed. If the DPF doesn’t regenerate properly eventually a warning light will be displayed and the vehicle should be taken to a main dealer. Continued usage past this point may destroy the DPF completely so it must be replaced, this will be very expensive (£1000+). DPF Continued If your car is type approved and registered after the date below it will have a DPF to meet the EU Emissions, things can get very complicated here. Vehicles are often built long before being registered, so you could purchase a 2010 car that was a 2009 model. Its important to ask what model year your car is and which emission standard it meets. Its possible to be driving a 10/60 or even an 11 Reg thats not Euro 5 (V) if the car was built long before being registered. Euro 5 (V) Emissions Standard Commenced - September 2009 If you only drive low mileages in town do not buy a Diesel with a DPF. A Petrol is more suitable. Modern Diesels are very complex machines, following manufacturer servicing guidelines is essential as is using the correct oils, fluids and drivers checking levels frequently. The issues mentioned above are not restricted to Toyota's, all manufacturers have these issues and probably more of them. Hopefully this is useful to people Please PM me if any of this requires amending.
  5. 4 points
    Having use USB memory sticks on my Mk1 Avensis with Sony, CD changer and Connects2 for many years, I wanted the same on my T27. My original post: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/169513-added-usbbluetooth-adaptor-to-w53828-in-avensis-mk3/ I choose the LaPower Adapter as it had the additional Bluetooth A2DP, at a cheaper cost than the usual Connects2 and Xcarlink, plus the supplier is UK based. The USB/Bluetooth kit . The trim removal kit The first is to look at the many guides for the radio removal on the internet. http://www.handsfree.lt/index.php?route=product/download/download&download_id=13 Remove the glovebox. With the trim removal tool I obtain from eBay I carefully worked on the top vent. then the passenger side trim near the heater controls. Then remove the surround to access the lower screws securing the stereo . . Remove the four screws to access the rear of the stereo. Pull the stereo forward and slightly to the left to pass the right trim, which is only loosened and not removed. Looking at the rear the Cd changer socket 12 pin (6+6) should be empty . Route the cable for the adapter from the glove box area, as close to the firewall as possible, behind the vertical reinforce bar and insert into the CD changer socket. At this point, reposition the stereo and connect the adapter to the cable. Get a memory stick with music and test the system. I used mine from my other system and they all worked fine. Better to find out now than later after putting the car back together. I decided to leave the adapter in the glovebox for now but may make changes. Next was to install the microphone and carefully rand the cable along the front of the roof lining, tucking along the front of the A pillar close to the windscreen - this avoids interfering with the curtain airbag! Everything was put back and the sound quality is very good and clear. Most of the functions can be operated by the steering wheel controls. I have two mobiles and the second is connected to the adapters Bluetooth. Calls can be taken or rejected by the steering wheel Next or Previous buttons. The other phone is connected to the cars Bluetooth. I may get an USB/Aux extension cable and mount in a blank hole in the dashboard measure the blanking plate and compared to measurements of the two I found. They both measure the same 33mm x 21/22mm The first costs £11.80 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121504852123?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The second £5.88 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391206888063?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The first looks better built and seems to match the hole, whilst the second looks cheaply made and may need more work to keep in place. If I go ahead, there will be an update. I bought the more expensive USB/AUX dashboard extension cable because it looked a better fit, and I was correct. The socket without the cable attached. The blank socket I chose was close to the steering wheel A notch had to be cut out on upper right side of the hole, using a craft knife. A slight adjustment was done on another notch and the socket now fits perfectly. The dashboard material is soft and easy to work on. After routing the cable, repositioning the adapter to the space behind the heater on the passenger side freed up the glove box. If the adapter needs resetting, removing the glove box gives quick access. The USB/AUX socket in position. It looks a lot better now, but I may move it to the storage compartment between the seat replacing the original socket . This will need a lot more work and I could not remove the reverse collar on the gear stick. I don't want to break that! The system works well and I will not be using the microSD socket on the adapter, only USB memory sticks. The adapter can only use one or the other, so it is not an issue. The total integration is very good and the only minor gripe which is for every USB adapter, is the lack of artist/title display. I don't really look at what artist is playing, since I put the music on the USB stick! Unfortunately iPhone and iPod are not supported through the USB cable, but I don't own or use Apple products. A cheap upgrade. I have changed the position of the USB/AUX dashboard extension, to the centre storage box. This replaces the AUX only socket which is not needed. As you can see, both sockets look identical and the fitting notches are in the same location. The later Avensis has the USB/AUX in the same position in the centre storage box . Removing the centre console covers is fair simple. First the covers between the dashboard and the console and the console surround trim . Remove the lower console trim in the footwell on both sides. Then the gear lever console trim. Press on the gear lever cover surround to separate it from the trim and using a suitable lever lift the trim. . Also remove the ashtray and lighter panel to re-route the adapter cable. Now with the access you can unplug the AUX socket and remove it Install the AUX/USB socket and route the wire from the adapter carefully to the socket. Refit all panels in reverse order. Job done.
  6. 4 points
    I got my Gen2 new in Jan 2007, and 12 years & 107K virtually trouble-free miles later have just handed it on to my newly-married daughter. I say virtually as a couple of years ago the ABS warning lights came on, but this turned out to be a problem with the sensor and not an ABS fault. I've replaced the 12v battery once and the exhaust system once. There's no way I would give my daughter a car that I didn't think was totally reliable. No technical info to share, but for what it's worth in my view if you've got £5K to spend on a 2nd hand car, you could do a hell of a lot worse than a Gen 2 Prius.
  7. 4 points
    Wheel alignment isn't checked on service. If you have an alignment problem then an indicator would be that your tyres may show signs of uneven wear either on the outer or inner edges. Have you hit a pothole or kerb recently? That would be a reason for it pulling and if it's only just started you wouldn't see any tyre wear initially. Take it to a decent garage to get the alignment checked. Anyone with a Hunter system would be my personal choice.
  8. 4 points
    Difficulty - Medium Time - The are 2 stages, one to adjust the brakes themselves and the other to adjust the cable. Cable 10 minutes Including brakes 1 hour. Tools - Jack and wheel brace, flat blade screwdriver, phillips No2 screwdriver, 10mm socket and suitable driver. Trim tool if available. 2 X 10mm spanners. Introduction The handbrake on all 4.2 RAVs is of the "drum in hat/exclusive" type. This consists of a small diameter drum brake which is positioned in the boss of the rear brake disc. Although a handbrake could be incorporated into the disc brake, these are becoming less popular because they rely entirely upon clamping force which requires high actuation force and are exposed to contamination if the vehicle should be used off road. Although the parking brake is efficient, it should be remembered that it is solely a static brake and should never be used dynamically because it is at a huge mecanical disadvantage - a tiny brake inside a large wheel. Even applying it just as the wheels are coming to a stand will eventually cause excessive wear of the components. As it is a static brake the linings should last indefinitely and the brake requires little maintenance. Once adjusted after the linings have bedded to the drum it should normally not be required again for the life of the vehicle. Occasionally the drum brakes may become inefficient due to lack of use, a build up of contaminants or incorrect use. If the linings have become wet (when the vehicle is waded to the depth of 300 - 500mm) the brake will be submerged and can be dried by applying the handbrake with a force of 10kgs for a distance not exceeding 400m at 30mph. If the linings have been replaced they can be bedded by using the same procedure but repeating the process after a cooling period of 1 minute a number of times as required. In this case the brake should be re-adjusted when completed. Once the brakes have been adjusted for the first time, any subsequent adjustment required is likely to be as a result of cable stretch. If you have no reason to suspect the brakes need further adjustment (you haven't renewed the linings etc) then it is acceptable to adjust the cable only. The cost for having the handbrake adjusted can vary. I have heard reports ranging from £25 - £65 which I presume depends on whether the foundation drum brakes have been adjusted or only the cable. Procedure To adjust the foundation parking brake shoes; Working on level ground safely chock the front wheels and release the hand brake. Observing all the usual precautions, jack up and remove one rear wheel. Ideally the vehicle should be jacked and supported on axle stands but if the supplied vehicle jack is used under no circumstances place any part of your body under the vehicle. As the disc is not fixed to the hub it is necessary to secure it by taking two of the wheel nuts and running them up to the disc. The hand brake adjuster is accessible through a rubber bung in the disc. Using a screwdriver, prize out the bung and rotate the disc (it will be stiff as you have to turn the transmission) until the toothed adjuster is visible - it will be somewhere near the bottom ; Use the screwdriver to engage the teeth of the adjuster; To adjust the brake you need to turn the adjuster as shown to expand the shoes; Turn the adjuster until it is no longer possible to move the disc then turn it backwards until the disc is just free. It is OK to hear it rubbing but it should not be tight. Turn the disc a full revolution to make sure there are no tight spots. When complete refit the rubber bung and the roadwheel. Go around and repeat the process at the other wheel but when finished do not lower the wheel to the ground. To adjust the hand brake cable; Go inside the car and use a trim tool or screwdriver to prize the back of the gear stick gaiter upward; The front of the gaiter is hooked under the lower facia so just pull it back to disengage and lift it up over the gearstick but do not try to remove it. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws from the front of the centre console; Fold down the back of the console and remove the cup holders to reveal the 2 fixing bolts. Use a 10mm socket and extension to remove the bolts then lift off the console. Note - it will be necessary to reach under and unplug the wire from the cigar lighter. Now with the console removed the handbrake and cable is very easy to see; Use the 2 X 10mm spanners to unlock the adjusting nut. Hold the bottom nut still and undo the top nut anti clockwise. This photo is from a 4.3 but it is the same; Now turn the bottom nut clockwise to tension the cable. The specification calls for 7 - 9 clicks with a pulling force of 20kgs (44 lbs) - thats a heavy pull! The main thing is not to over adjust it so you should still feel some free play at the bottom of the lever travel. Keep adjusting and testing little by little. If you start at the bottom and pull, you should not feel any resistance until about the third click. As a check go back to the jacked up wheel and check that it turns freely. Replace all of the trim in the reverse order remembering to re-connect that cigar lighter. Lower the remaining wheel and don't forget to finally tighten the road wheel nuts to the specified torque of 76 ft/lbs. As a final check take the vehicle to an incline where it would normally just roll and check to see that it does so in both directions. For those that might prefer the handbrake to be on with just one click don't forget that if it binds it will get hot and cause a lot of damage so whatever happens make sure you do these checks to make sure it is free.
  9. 4 points
    I arranged with my local Toyota dealer, Chester/Deeside area, to have 2 new tyres fitted today. All 4 tyres were hanging around 3 mm but I decided to have 2 new on the front. I have a Gen 4 Prius Excel with 15" wheels. Originals were Toyo and the dealer quoted me about 2 months ago £50 per tyre, that included balancing, new valves, disposal etc and included VAT. That matched any price I could see on the internet so booked in for today. When done I started chatting to the service guy about satnav map updates, and he offered to update today if I had time to wait for about an hour - it takes that time for the software to do its job. Job done, just had to hand over the £100 for 2 tyres. If there is another map update before my car is 3 years old end of September then they will do that freebie as well. I know some on this forum are not too impressed with their local Toyota dealer, so I thought I would give a good comment about my local dealer.
  10. 4 points
    If you want to save money, just keep the Auris. With such low mileages, I can't see how it could ever make financial sense to change the car.
  11. 4 points
    So, I’ve had my Prius PHV for two weeks, and thought I’d share a few of my first impressions, good and bad. I wanted one in Pearl White with the light grey interior, registered in March 2017 for the free tax. I ended up with one in Hypersonic Red with a black interior, registered in June 2017. I’m not very good at buying cars. However, despite having failed to meet all three criteria, I’m still happy with my purchase. And to save you wading through what follows, I can summarise my thoughts very nicely: I like this car a lot. 💕 That Tailgate! Can anyone truly say they’ve bought a car because of its boot lid? I think I can now. It’s nothing short of an engineering marvel with its double-bubble glass, uber-cool LED light strip and honest-to-god legit carbon fibre that’s subtly visible through the window. Okay, so that light strip is disappointingly fake (only the central brake light illuminates) and yes, there’s the small matter of not having a rear wiper (although interestingly the aero actually keeps the screen completely clear as long as you’re moving) but still… it is a masterpiece of geeky design. I absolutely love it. 💕 Squint, and it looks a bit like an Alfa SZ. Remaining on the subject of looks, I was trying to work out why I find the PHV more appealing to the eye than the standard Gen4, and realised that it might have something to do with looking a tiny bit like an Alfa SZ. Especially in red. I was an impressionable teenager when the SZ appeared – in fact, it arrived the same year I passed my driving test – and I’ve always harboured a liking for them. I reckon there’s more than a little of the SZ design language in the Prius PHV. They’re both unconventionally attractive. Or, perhaps, conventionally ugly. Definitely ungainly from some angles, and more than a little quirky in the detailing. And to my eyes, they share quite a few of those details: the square headlights; the steeply-raked waistline with an excess of body over the rear wheel; the black roofline and glasshouse; the full-width light strip at the rear… and the SZ had a pretty decent drag coefficient for its day as well. 💕 It’s a Smooth Operator We all know the hybrid drivetrain is supremely relaxing when driven as intended. The PHV adds another dimension – as I’m sure the standard Gen 4 also does on 15” wheels – which is a proper cosseting ride. There’s a level of bump absorption that people seem to have forgotten is actually possible in these days of huge wheels and tiny sidewalls. Yet it doesn’t flop around corners like a dying halibut either; it feels remarkably well-balanced and tied down. Incredibly, it actually delivers a more comfortable ride than my Lexus GS Premier, probably thanks to the latter’s wholly unnecessary 18” wheels. It’s a bit ridiculous that this eco-car should be so much smoother than a ‘luxury exec’ saloon, but it is. No more thumping horribly over horizontal seams on the A14; no more getting jiggled uncomfortably on badly-maintained B-roads and what were once haemorrhoid-troubling speed humps are now dispatched with nary a rectal twinge. 💕 Zero-Emission Commuting? Nearly! Having not owned a plug-in vehicle before, I was looking forward to the experience of electric-only running. My journey to work is 32 miles, give or take. It’s an easy route to drive economically and very well-suited to hybrids. I figured that whilst the official EV range of 39 miles would be hopelessly optimistic, I might manage 32 on days when it’s not cold or wet. And manage it, I have. The full-charge range has been a bit random so far, but I guess it’s getting used to my driving style. Day One, a full charge got me a disappointing 31 miles on the indicator. But, 32 miles later, I was arriving at work with 0.1 mile still showing. Day Two, I kicked off with 33 miles, but made it with nothing to spare. Day Three, I kicked off with 35 miles but the roads were properly wet and I fell short by a couple of miles. Day Four, I started with 35 miles again, but it was chillier and I fell short by a mile. Day Five, I started with 36 miles then turned the AC off completely and saw 39 miles estimated. I left the heating off and arrived at work with 3 miles still left, and rather cold feet. I won’t be doing that on a regular basis, but it was an interesting experiment. A week further on, and the indicated range is inching above 40 miles, but in reality I’m still getting similar actual range. Overall, I’m happy with that. I knew I’d be unlikely to get all the way to work outside of summer time, and it’s clear that wet roads and cold temperatures have the same big impact on economy as in any other car. In the depths of winter, I’ll probably be lucky to make it half way. However, that’s not the whole story. Because, of course, there’s the journey back each day, where - until I can manage to wangle a charging point at work - the car is lugging a very big, very flat EV battery all the way home. I was hoping to see an indicated 70-75mpg for these journeys, as that’s what I used to get in my Gen3. The new setup is obviously more efficient than the Gen3, but I figured the extra dead weight would pull it back down. I figured wrong. Day 1, that 0.1 mile of charge disappeared pulling out of the work car park, meaning the whole journey was done in HV mode. I was gobsmacked to arrive home with 92mpg showing on the meter, although I’d been slowed down for a portion of the journey by a tractor so figured this wasn’t representative. Day 2, dragging the flat battery all the way and without the benefit of a slow tractor, netted me 85mpg. Day 3, with the roads having dried out since the morning, I was up to 87mpg Day 4, it was still a bit colder and I managed 83mpg Day 5, it was warmer and I had a bit of EV range to get me going, so I hit 94mpg. Since then, I’ve never been below 80mpg even when starting with absolutely zero EV range and I’ve been back over 90 a few times with a best run home of 97mpg. That is seriously impressive to me, and indicates just how brilliant the standard non-PHV Gen4 hybrid setup really must be. A quick flick through the info screens soon reveals the reason for such petrol parsimony. I’m hitting well over 50% - often over 60% - of engine-off running on the journey home. The slice of the battery that works like a standard hybrid is far stronger than any other hybrid I’ve driven, not least for its ability to let me cruise for extended periods at 50mph with the engine off. And when the engine does run, the fiendishly clever algorithm that determines power routing manages to harvest charge by using ‘excess’ petrol power even when not on re-gen. Sometimes it manages to grab enough to bring the EV range meter back into play, allowing me to switch to full EV mode for short distances despite starting with ‘nothing in the tank’. I’ve always guesstimated around 30% of engine-off running on that route in my other hybrids, so to be hitting double that is a pretty amazing achievement for this car. 🙉 Infernal Indicator Clicks Of course, no car is perfect and the PHV has its fair share of irritations. Not least, the appalling noise that issues forth every time the indicator stalk is used. Why, Toyota, why? If the C-HR – and, by all accounts, the standard Gen4 – can have an inoffensively-soft click then what on earth possessed you to equip the PHV with a squeaky, tinny clicker that actually manages to approximate a fingernail/blackboard interface? I’ve got a Carista dongle on the way, so I’ll see if lowering the volume makes it more tolerable, and failing that I’ll just silence it completely. For the time being, I’m tempted to go full-Audi and just not signal at all. It really is that bad. 🤬 Un-Turn-Offable Auto Headlights I realise I’m preaching to the converted here (well, @PeteB anyway) but seriously, how can it possibly be acceptable to have removed the ‘Off’ switch for the headlights when the Auto setting is so goddamn dangerous? The first thing I did was set the sensitivity to its lowest, yet they still go on at the slightest hint of shadow. I actually clocked up over twenty unnecessary activations the other day before I gave up and stopped counting. As twilight fell, I had to pull right back from the van in front, as I could see him looking in the mirror wondering what my game was. Last Friday, on a narrow lane, the car in front stopped in a shadowy dip to wait for some fighting pigeons to get out of the way. I wasn’t in a hurry, and completely understood why he had stopped. Nobody wants a fat wood pigeon in their grille and when the birds are scrapping they often just won’t move for you. However, the dim light triggered my stupid auto lights, so the chap got upset and gestured back angrily because he thought I was being impatient. Fortunately, he wasn’t a violent psycho, but I struggled to find the right sign language for ‘sorry, it’s not me, it’s the car’. And then, of course, there was my daily roundabout-with-a-flyover, where the inevitable happened: the lights came on under the flyover and the person waiting at the entrance thought I was flashing them to pull out. I was already braking at this point, because I knew full well what was going to happen, but it was still an unnecessary danger. Seriously, auto headlights are an absolute liability. To make them impossible to disable is madness. I don’t want to run sidelights all the time, because that dims the DRLs, which are a useful safety feature in the land of partially-sighted pensioners where I live. And I’d really rather not run on dipped headlights all the time either, as that’s just wasting energy when it’s not dark. I wonder if Carista can access an even-less-sensitive setting than the paltry -2 the car presently allows? 😢 Economy-Class Seating Okay, so I am coming from 18-way semi-aniline heated/ventilated luxury, and anything is going to be a bit of a comedown from that but still… it really hurts that the Prius Prime in the US gets proper electrical adjustability whilst here I am having to crank myself up and down and back and forth manually like a prole. A bit more padding wouldn’t go amiss, either. 💩 Archaic Infotainment This goes without saying, really. I’m not disappointed with it because I knew it was going to be bad, but it’s such a simple thing to get right that it’s depressing to see Toyota (along with so many other manufacturers to be fair) fail so hard. I mean, Mirrorlink? Really? That’s all you’re giving me in a car released in 2017? And just to rub it in that I can’t use my phone’s screen, you’re making me use an interface that looks like something from the days of Windows 7? You. Can. Do. Better. The sat nav actually gave me some hope, at first. Unlike my GS with its offensively-basic 1990s-style map display, the Toyota map at least looks vaguely modern. It can connect to the internet via my phone, to get those all-important live traffic updates. And it’s evidently been updated fairly recently, as all the shoddy new-build estates that are popping up like fungus on my route to work seem to be accounted for. Could this finally be an in-car nav system that’s worth using? Of course, not. Because then, you actually try to use the damn thing and it all falls apart. Primarily, because some cheapskate bean-counter in Aichi specced a wholly-inadequate CPU to power the whole thing. It’s impossibly slow to route, laggy to use and despite that internet connection it has so far managed to provide 100% inaccurate traffic info. All reported delays have failed to materialise, it insisted that a road was completely shut last week when it clearly wasn’t and it’s failed to give any warning of the delays which did actually occur. Still, in brighter news, the wireless charging mat nearly works, which means I don’t have to pull the surprisingly un-rattly trim apart to route a charging cable to a phone holder. That means I can run TomTom on my phone sitting on the mat, and occasionally glance down for proper accurate traffic info. I say nearly works, because it can’t supply enough charge to stop the battery from slowly draining when running TomTom, but to be fair that’s more to do with TomTom being a CPU hog than any real fault with Toyota. And, whilst the interface for music playing is predictably clunky, when it’s cranked up the JBL setup genuinely sounds terrific. I have tinnitus and hearing loss so I’m hardly operating at audiophile level, but I couldn’t honestly say the fancy Mark Levinson system in my GS sounds any better. 😁 Conclusion All in all, I am seriously impressed with this car. However, I can see why Toyota haven’t sold many. It’s a very niche market: an odd-looking four-seater with no spare wheel, a tiny boot and an unattractive price. Add in the general public’s completely irrational but depressingly common fear of any car that plugs in to a power socket, and you can see why used PHVs lose value far more rapidly than the standard hybrid. I am under no illusions: the PHV makes no financial sense. The money I’ll save in fuel will be far less than the extra I’ll lose in depreciation compared to the standard Gen4. I didn’t even manage to bag a free-tax one either. However, I’m finding it hard to care about that. For me there is a perverse joy to be gained in perambulating around the countryside whilst using no fuel, that outweighs such pecuniary concerns. I’ve also already enjoyed getting into a pre-heated car in the morning, and that joy will only grow in the winter months. The adaptive headlights – once it’s dark and they’ve stopped flapping around switching on and off – are actually incredibly effective, and even better than the steerable HIDs of the Lexus. Besides, to be honest, even if it didn’t have any of those extras, I’d still have got one over the standard Gen4. Because I’m vainly juvenile at heart, and I’m easily seduced by surface beauty. And any which way you play it, a carbon fibre bootlid is properly f-----g cool.
  12. 4 points
    Car air conditioning never ceases to amuse. Refrigeration technicians are highly,trained, skilled, knowledgeable and qualified. Qualifications are gained over a period of approximately 3 years minimum. Knowledge takes a while longer to accumulate. Garages in the most part, cant afford to employ air conditioning technicians. So to put it simply, why don't you ask the bloke next door if he wouldnt mind asking his youngest to wipe a cloth over the vents and give the ac a once over? Change the pollen filter, clean out the vents, run the unit on recirc only for the shortest possible periods and once or twice a year scald the entire system with air which is hotter than 60 degrees for about 15 minutes. EASY to do on a hot summers day with the ac turned onto maximum heat medium fan speed on a long run during which the engine is at its full working temperature. (Motorways are good for this.)Dont forget to wind the windows down so that the heat escapes and the system carries on trying to throw heat through the ductwork and coils. You then ensure that you kill the bacteria which makes everything stink. Keep the drain clean and clear, blow out the coil and kill bacteria by temperature and not disinfectant. Adding, topping up or routinely replacing refrigerant isnt necessary. Changing refrigerant is only necessary when there has been a leak. All refrigerant leaks have to be degassed, repaired and proven prior to reintroducing refrigerant. Most refrigerant leaks are very hard to detect. They do sell dyes which glow under an ultraviolet lamp however, what they don't tell you is that these dyes will only work if the leak is big enough to let the ultraviolet sensitive element of the dye to escape ; in many cases the molecular size of the escaping gas component is smaller than the dye molecule size and so the gas escapes whilst the dye doesn't. It makes everyone think that the problem went away until the ac stops cooling again. And guess what! you didn't just pay a semiskilled, barely trained, charlatan £165 to be fed a line or two. Recent developments show the motor industry trying to protect its own by introducing "special" refrigerants so that you have to entrust your vehicle to someone who just got back from a fortnights course. Sorry to say, this doesn't make them right ; a properly trained refrigeration technician knows how to handle and is qualified to manage any type of refrigerant from propane to carbon dioxide to ammonia ( I kid you not) and many , many more. A lot of people refer to air conditioning as "air con" some of them think they are being a bit savvy, Nicholas Cage fans and err ...cool. However I think that they are unwittingly being extremely accurate; a lot of the air conditioning trade is "air CON"
  13. 4 points
    I just carried out the annual oil and filter service, for the third year. The car has just done over 76,000 miles. I took the following photo a few hours later to record the odometer. I covered my previous oil service experience here:- I am currently using Petronis 0W-20 oil I got at discount from Euro Car Parts. The only issue I had this time, was the filter being hard to undo. Blame the last person who changed the oil filter - me. A longer socket handle and brute force sorted that out. Toyota seem to be using the same style filter across the range of most the petrol and hybrid engines, including the tool. I checked the coolant which was near the minimum mark. I topped up a little for the first time in well over a year, which is not bad, since only a small amount was needed. Drive belt was checked and looks fine - I have spare in the boot. The cabin and air filters have been change earlier this year. The car is fine for a good while.
  14. 4 points
    I know there must be a more eloquent of doing this, but I've listed screenshots from my Carista App showing the options available on my 2016 Gen 4 Prius. You probably already know that you get a month's free trial when you buy the Carista unit so you do have some time to tweak for free. However, as I've just discovered, it appears that the trial starts from when you first connect the app to the unit and not (as I thought) from when you make your first tweak. Hope this is useful.
  15. 4 points
    So when I was reversing the Aygo the other day (the girlfriend is a learner and couldnt get it out the space in front of my car without worrying) she says to me " the right side reverse light isn't working" Ok, says I.. I will sort it. SO today I buy a couple of bulbs, look up on You tube how to get the rear lens out, take the lens out, change the bulb, test it before refitting and still it does not light up when in reverse. With fading daylight I thought "sod it" and put it back together. When I had screwed the lens back in I looked at it and thought... hmmm why is the lens red... Then I flicked the fog light switch on the light stalk.. Doh!
  16. 4 points
    just an update from my previous posts just back from the dealer and they replaced the timing chain and other components and now the car sounds perfect, i am so happy the problem has been solved thanks to all who helped
  17. 4 points
    Hi, It was this:- I bought it from my local dealer. It was less than £10 and included the four clips that secure it. I think the last two part number digits, C1, refer to the trim colour. C1 was good for me, but you may need C0 (a different shade?), as this is listed in some parts breakdowns for the spare wheel kit for an Auris mk2 Once the two chrome 'D' securing rings are removed the trim just pulls straight up (against the four securing clips). HTH
  18. 3 points
    No I am NOT going to break out in song........ Its what a difference this nice summer type weather in February is making to my mpg Here is my very latest Prius Gen4 mpg. Sunday 24th Feb was a return journey of 8.5 miles each way. Tuesday 25th Feb, we travelled about 18 mile to Warrington, then moved around that town, Wed 26th Feb Was a return trip to Sheffield area. Today 27th Feb Was 2 return journeys in the local area, largest of which was 5 mile each way, so mostly on cold engine starts. I very impressed with these figures, cant wait for the real summer to come. I just love my Prius.
  19. 3 points
  20. 3 points
    The displayed range after a full charge is not directly proportional to your battery capacity, it is based on previous journeys and other data. Your efficiency will be down during winter due to lower ambient temperatures. The battery will generate heat while charging, but that's not enough. Li-ion batteries like operating temperatures closer to 20 degrees.
  21. 3 points
    Always remember, the alternative to a Hybrid car is either an ICE or EV. Downside of ICE is pollution, which is main reason getting away from ICE. Downside of EV is low mileage travel between charges, main reason I kept away from an EV within my budget. An Hybrid is a compromise. It is self charging, so no need to worry where nearest charge points are, it has an engine to keep me going in all situations except running out of fuel - and I would only do that if I was stupid, it gives good mpg and less pollution of the atmosphere due to running on petrol less. On that last point, my on board computer shows I running on battery in the summer 57% of the time,and in winter 43% of the time. Battery technology is getting better all the time, smaller, lighter, more powerful. Until the lower priced EV can do 300 miles on a single charge,and can be “refilled” to the top within 20-30 minutes, and charging stations are more common, personally I think an Hybrid is brilliant. Until then, life is a compromise, and Toyota, IMO, has got it right in bringing to the market now for 20 years Hybrid vehicles. You can be sure though they will have EV’s being developed and tested right now, but what’s the point on bringing out a Leaf or Zoe that can only do 100 or so miles between charges (first editions). And what cost and how frequent is a battery replacement that’s being used all the time.? I don’t know about the Yaris Hybrid, but the my Prius and the Wife’s Auris hybrids have a 10 year HV battery warranty so long as they are checked annually (free as part of a service, £40 otherwise). My Prius Gen4 was doing just over 80mpg summer and just over 70mpg winter. And I can drive past urban schools with playground full of kids knowing full well most times I can be running on battery, so less pollution then petrol/diesel. I have watched a lot of YouTube videos on how to drive a hybrid car to get full advantage of high mpg. I had to make changes as to how I drove, but always making sure I don’t hinder or road users. I read recently someone in a Toyota hybrid saying it’s painfully slow trying to get from traffic lights stop to 30mph in a reasonable time, using battery, without annoying others. I don’t even try. Sure, I use the battery to get the 1.5 ton car moving (thus save a lot of money) but once moving I use the petrol engine to get me up to a reasonable speed in a reasonable time - you can’t run forever on battery 1) it’s not got the power to accelerate quickly, 2) I am mindful the system is self charging and so accept there are times it needs to run on petrol. I choose the times to my advantage when I can. Battery cars seem to be the future, maybe hydrogen cars will rule (and Toyota market an hydrogen car), but until the day batteries have a good capacity, taking up less space, weigh less, are cheaper, can be charged quicker and more fill up places, Hybrid is the way to go.
  22. 3 points
    I have a 2005 Yaris T-Sport and all I can say is that it's one of the best little cars that I have ever owned & I have gone through a few over the years. I bought mine when it had 54k on the clock & FTSH. A number of years later it still has FTSH and has just turned 82k and has flew through it's MOT a few weeks ago with no advisories. Mpg wise I am getting close to 40 & it has been ultra reliable with me only having to replace a few parts where corrosion has got the better of them such as the exhaust & fuel neck filler pipe. You need to remember this is a different car to the 1.3 and is huge fun to drive on twisty roads if you like that kind of thing. I love mine as you may be able to tell
  23. 3 points
    I think they have spoilt the look, I love my rear Z lights, not too keen on what they have done to the front either. Its lost some of its individuality 😕
  24. 3 points
    Got my 2016 Yaris Icon Hybrid last July and since then my MPG has varied between 62 summer and 52 winter. I do a lot of short trips around town and the occasional long trip involving motorway driving. I find the type of journey has little impact on consumption, temperature has the largest effect. MPG started to drop below 60 in November and is now steady at 52. I always calculate MPG from full tank to full tank though I find the trip computer in the car to be fairly accurate to within 1-2 MPG. My previous Hyundai i20 Auto only managed 30-40 mpg and was useless on short trips. The Yaris is a much nicer to drive as well.
  25. 3 points
    As above, this could be unequal tyre wear. I have found on several of our cars, including the Auris, that the left hand front tyre (UK, RHD) wears quicker than than the right hand, almost certainly due to roundabouts being clockwise, and to an extent the road camber. But wear through cornering would seem to wear the tyre more on the outer edge than the inner edge of the l/h tyre, so the tyre becomes slightly cone-shaped, which may move the contact patch a little, I am reckoning. When I swapped the front tyres across the axle the steering bias and steering wheel offset reversed. On other cars the problem has also gone when new front tyres were fitted.
  26. 3 points
    Never ever have to demist the windows. Never ever had to with the past two cars either due to having aircon. Leave it on permanently, never turn it off, and it will dry out the car internally and the windows never mist up. Mick.
  27. 3 points
    I absolutely agree, but since they were 20 years late with heated mirrors and at least 10 years late with electric folding mirrors, I'm not holding my breath. When the Hybrid System was launched in 1997 it was so advanced (and still is very impressive) so it's hard to understand why Toyota are so backward in some other areas (an electric heated front windscreen would be welcome too).
  28. 3 points
    How to install an aftermarket radio/cd/mp3 player in your T25 Avensis - I joined up here and found there wasn't a guide, so I had a go and took some pictures and tried to write one. Hope it's of use! Right. First of all you need a 10m socket, with a long handle so you can unscrew the bolts that hold the radio and air-con unit (which are also stuck together - more on that later). You also need an ISO adapter to suit the Toyota radio plugs (such as: this) and a bit of plastic to fill the gap left around the radio (such as: this) or you can buy them both together. But yeah, basically go on ebay and get an ISO harness adapter and a fascia adapter! FIRST, REMOVE ANY CD YOU HAVE IN THE MACHINE! REMEMBERING THIS ONCE THE RADIO IS ON YOUR KITCHEN TABLE CAUSES CONFUSION AND DELAY. Once you have all the things, first take off the gearknob and surround. The knob unscrews (eventually) and once that's off, I find if you hold the surround by poking your fingers down where the gaiter is and pulling the whole surround upwards using the gaiter as protection it avoids trying to pry it up around the edges. Once you've eased it away, you need to unplug the electrical connector for the cig lighter, which has a little clip, so don't just yank it. Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Once that's done, stick the gearknob back on, just so you don't accidentally duff the radio/aircon unit up on the big pointy metal stick should you drop it or something. Next, you want to remove the top trim where the cup holder is. Easiest to open the glovebox, and just pry it away with your fingers. i found it came away pretty easily, but you need to unplug the electrical connector for the heated window, etc. As with the cig lighter there's a clip on the bottom of the plug. Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr The Radio and Aircon are clipped together as one unit with a big metal frame. the frame is bolted tot he dashboard by 4 brass (or brass coloured) bolts. Two at the top, and two at the bottom. They should be fairly obvious. The top two are a bit tricky to get at, try not to let them fall down behind the dash when you take them out! (You can see the top left one here) Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Once you've unscrewed those, ease the radio & aircon block out, and unclip the many electrical plugs from the back. There's 2 for the air-con (IIRC) and three for the CD player if you have stering controls. Obviously some specs will differ slightly, but broadly speaking, the plugs will only fit in the holes they're meant for, so it shoudln't be too bad mating them up again! Once they're all unplugged, your dashboard should looks something like: Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr And you should have something like this left over: Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Unscrew all those bolts/screws on both sides. Once you have the metal side plates off, to separate the air con and stereo units, you slide them sideways from each other. I had to break one of the clips to work this out, but if you just slide the radio to the left (I think) as you look at them, they will slot apart like magic! You can then attach the plastic fascia plate (this one) the same way. Modern radios usually have holes strategically placed in the side of the radio chassis to accept screws/bolts like the above. Mine did, although it didn't like the gold-coloured bolts which were holding the Toyota radio in, so I had to dig our some others. MAKE SURE WHATEVER SCREWS YOU USE AREN'T TOO LONG! (See your radio documentation to be sure, although it's usually embossed on the side or top of your radio saying "WOAH, ONLY 8MM SCREWS, YEAH?" or similar.) Anyway, screw it all together like a meccano thing, with your radio hovering there in mid air (for now), then add the fascia surround, and you might end up with something like this: Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Now, the rest should be easy. Take care handling the unit, especially as the plastic fascia adapter is probably flimsy and brittle. Offer it up to where the old one was, and plug the connector adapter onto the toyota wires, then the back of your radio. Don't forget to re-connect the air con too. Then once it's located (you might have to ease the fascia bit into the gap as they're not typically made to the most exacting quality standards), then add the bolts. (It's worth checking everything works before you bolt it all up and put the gear surround and cupholder bits back!). Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr Basically from here, re-fitting is the reverse of removal! Just carefully ease the gear surround back on (you'll need the knob off again first, then on again after!) and re-fit the top trim (again, starting at the glove-box end) and reconnecting the plug for the heated rear window as you go. Ta-da! Untitled by Tony Lloyd, on Flickr EDIT: I should have mentioned, your steering wheel controls won't work unless you buy an extra harness adapter, which I haven't done. They do seem to be readily available though, here's some.
  29. 3 points
  30. 3 points
    Not a Hybrid but a Mk1 T-Sport running Mk2 alloys with full blown winter tyres - Continental Winter Contact TS 860's. I commute to Sheffield 3 days a week via the Snake Pass and believe you and me, that road gets battered with snow & ice to the extent that it ends up being closed for 2-3 days at a time at many points over the winter. Last winter I crossed the pass safely many times when other cars were turning around or sliding all over the road due to the sheer amount of grip that these tyres provide - like the brown stuff to a blanket 😉 I put my winter tyres on last weekend after the 1st dump of snow over the Snake pass last week & they will probably stay on until the end of March as they did last year. Had I not lived so close to the Peaks where there is always a lot of snow every winter then I probably wouldn't have bothered with winter tyres.
  31. 3 points
    I'm into my second week with my 2015 Icon hybrid and finding it great fun after my Vauxhall 1.4 SE auto. I think I'm also getting the hang of driving it as I'm seeing 60.7mpg average when driving mixed motorway, local and suburban routes, keeping to the max speed limits (driving at but not exceeding them whenever safe to do so). Best average so far, 97.4 mpg for a short local trip with the engine fully warmed before setting off Its one of the most relaxing cars I've driven in my 60 odd years of driving 🙂
  32. 3 points
    Driving the other day, there was a distinct rattle jiggle knocking from the rear RH side. Noticeable going over bumps and road unevenness. I was worried about a suspension linkage and was considering taking the car to our local independent garage for them to take a look on the rack. Yesterday, I washed the car, and when hosing it down, and as usual I hosed out the rear wheel arches, especially the "mud trap" forward of the rear wheels. I then found the source of the rattle jiggle knocking. It was a piece of rough stone about the size of a marble or a Malteser! 🤣 Just thought I'd share this with the Yaris community, as maybe someone else may have the issue. Mick.
  33. 3 points
    If you took it to the dealer they would have changed the suspension and the tyres.
  34. 3 points
    I changed today to the Cross Climates. They do seem quieter and the steering feels sharper. Too soon to say if mpg will be adversely affected. Both the Toyo and the Michelin are 195/65 R15 91H. I feel we may be getting into the 17 vs 15 discussion again. The circumference of the tyres is the same it is just the depth/ width of the tyre that changes. From experience over 12 years and 4 hybrids I can assure you that tyres and tyre pressures make a huge difference to mpg. Even the brochure for the Gen 4 says Urban mpg 97.4 for 15 vs 85.6 for 17. My averages have never got near either of these but I regularly see 80+ on 20 mile trips. Summer was 62.7 winter maybe 61 but often trips are less than 5 miles and the long trips fast motorway, neither of which are ideal. I have never known what the correct pressure should be as the handbook is ambiguous It says 32 psi with a full spare and 36psi front 35 rear without. I have a spacesaver but thats not quoted.. I know that after a service my pressures were always down. and I put up to the label inside the door pressures again. 2.5 /2.4. maybe that is why I was not happy on the Toyo . In the past when I changed from the OEM tyre type I always consulted the manufacturer of the tyre for pressures and invariably found they were not the same as the manufacturer of the vehicle. Michelin say go by the label in the door. By the same token in the past I always went 4 psi over or the fast setting for better mpg and less wear (Pre Toyota). A friend just swapped his Rav diesel for a Rav Hybrid and was moaning about the fuel consumption. When I went out to look at it he had huge Black wheels with very low profile tyres. He was completely unaware of the affect wheel size had on mpg.. Style over substance.
  35. 3 points
    Toyota have far from lost sight of the future, they are at the forefront of technology, just not what everyone else is doing. The Toyota mantra for some 20 odd years has been to produce cars with zero emissions, but at that time, the only way forward was Hybrid for which they are now mainstream. I was lucky enough to talk to the UK chap in charge of the Mirai Hydrogen project, what an exciting future that is. Imagine being a fuel station owner now, having to buy your fuel from a refinery and paying the going rate. Roll on a few years (available now but not mainstream) and you will find your local petrol station making their own Hydrogen on site. Not tied to any fuel manufacturer, making your own fuel from electricity and water, now that truly is the future, and it's not far away either, all we need is the vehicles to be built at much lower costs, the fuel stations are coming, more and more added each year. When we have cars buses and lorries on Hydrogen it will take off massively, the only trouble then is taxation, there is currently no tax on zero emissions, imagine what will happen when zero emission vehicles become the mainstream?
  36. 3 points
    Thought I'd share my experience of installing a Cruise Control on a RAV with you lot, in case someone finds it useful or entertaining. Disclaimer : I am not an automotive engineer. Everything you read below is an account of my personal experiences and should not be treated as “a recipe” to do anything. If you are not entirely sure that you are safe in whatever you’re doing, you should simply not do it. No responsibility is given or implied for any of your own actions or any damage that may result from them. That out of the way :) ... I was doing some reading on the forum and on the net and I came to the conclusion that Cruise Control on a RAV4 is all done in software; And, more importantly, allready built-in! [Well, in my one anyway (‘07 XTR D4D 2.2)]. What was missing was a little control stalk that is mounted on the steering wheel. Someone then gave me a pointer to an auction on a well-known auction site where I found the very device for a princely sum of about 25 pounds. It was shipped from Thailand and arrived about a week later. Following is the procedure I used: First, I disconnected the battery [i thought that this is very important!] In order to get to the areas I needed to get to, I needed to lift the driver’s airbag (it is a part of the steering wheel cover assembly (horn)). Airbags should always be treated with respect. My thinking was that if there is no power to trigger them they should be reasonably safe. Lift Airbag assembly out of the way I undid the two Torx screws at the underside of the steering wheel using a ratchet and and an extension bar. (There are only two holes on the cowling, they are hard to miss). I then carefully lifted the airbag. I chose not to disconnect the airbag (to avoid upsetting anything) but “secured” it on top of the cowling with a couple of rubber bands. Note: The connectior that is circled in red is the one that CC stalk connects to Cut a hole for the CC-stalk I got a rough idea of the hole that I needed to make from another forum user’s photo of a factory fitted Cruise Control (thanks DavRav). I marked it with a felt-tip and got to work with a scalpel (I could have used a “box-cutter” / “Stanley” knife too). I used a small file and a tiny blowtorch to tidy up the edges. Install control stalk I slid the stalk through the hole I made and fastened it to the frame with a couple of screws. I then connected the stalk to [the only connector that would fit] on the steering wheel. Re-install airbag assembly I finally [very carefully] put things back where they were in the first place and re-did the two retaining torx-screws. Re-connect battery I found that step quite useful... as I was planning to start the car n'that... :) Test I [carefully] tested on a deserted stretch of road. Push the button - "CRUISE" dashboard light came on in it's green splendour :) All cruise control functions worked fine.... Job's a good'un!
  37. 3 points
    I bought a set of these polishing foam disks for about a fiver that I could connect to my cordless drill and just used some cutting compound. I'd tried two different headlight polishing kits before this method, the polishing kits took a significant amount of elbow grease and yielded poor results compared to the ease and finish the drill attachment gave.
  38. 3 points
    The 700W number is interesting. My commute home is 15 miles and takes about 30 minutes. I typically get 65mpg to 72mpg in moderate weather. There is 9.6 kWh per litre of petrol. 65 mpg is 1/65 = 0.0154 gallon per mile 1/65 / 0.22 = 0.0699 litres per mile 1/65 / 0.22 * 9.6 = 0.6713 kWh per mile 15 mile trip uses 15 * 0.6713 = 10.0695 kWh 30 minutes of AC at 700W = 0.35 kWh Petrol to electric efficiency is probably about 1/3 so approximately 1kWh for AC. This is approximately a 10% decrease in efficiency and 65 mpg goes down to 58.5 mpg if the AC is on fully. This is consistent with what I see in really hot weather.
  39. 3 points
    I would like to share my experience with you guys. I have recently bought a 2011 Avensis tourer 2.0 d4d to use as a taxi. it came with privacy/tinted glass from factory. the council does not allow this for passenger safety. I sourced some windows from a breakers yard from a 2012 model. 2012 is the facelift model. so the glass is the same in the preface lift and face lift model. the rear quarter(boot) and tailgate glass had to be removed professionally as its bonded. I used the same guy who the breakers yard used to save on labour costs. the door glass I changed at home with the removal of the door card. I am now left with privacy glass if anyone is interested in purchasing please get in touch, i will attach before and after photos. I would like to say thank you to Konrad for the moral support and help.
  40. 3 points
    Well, today I took the plunge, not a new one, but a Gen4 Excel, just under 2 year old. Bought from Toyota dealer in Solihull, under 21,000 miles, Pearlescent Red, and with 15” wheels plus a spare. Collection to be confirmed but possibly next Friday 20th July. Looking forward to getting it.
  41. 3 points
    I'd say wheels need to be balanced. That's why they put those tiny wheel weights on them, maybe some fell off.
  42. 3 points
    Problem with people saying they'll pay for damage, is that they often don't realise the actual cost. Aside from that they often want the repairs done as cheaply as possible. Is she paying for a courtesy car whilst yours is being repaired - probably not. Whether or not she pays, your insurance company should be informed. I would be inclined to just let your insurance deal with it. At least that way you know that a reputable company is dealing with the repairs, and one usually gets a guarantee on the repairs.
  43. 3 points
    A few (not particularly good ) Piccies. Maybe I'll have another go!
  44. 3 points
    Once upon a time, when it was a DIY job, I used to change engine oil/filter every 6 months, as It just seemed a sympatico thing to do....I even used engine flush, which was probably daft, as some must have been retained. Nowadays, like Kithmo, with only 3k Gen 4 miles pa, changing oil, other than for the problem of water condensing in the crank case, seems a bit daft. Especially as the Gen 4 ICE does not even do all the suggested mileage. Apropos of bore glazing, It was always the received wisdom, that if you wanted a fast car, drive it extra fast straight out of the show room But conforming to the the service intervals is very important as with my wife’s IQ has revealed. The car is an 09 and 10 years old, but just 20k miles, and now the paint on the roof has started peeling. I thought of having the roof vinyl covered for about £200, but using Frosty’s advice I wrote to Toyota Customer Services Flying a kite, you could say. Expected the reply to be my sandwiches wrapped in a road map, I was surprised (to say the least), to get reply suggesting I take the car to Jemca body shop for inspection. Just 3 years warranty in 09, and 2 years for paint, this was unexpected, but the car had a full Mr Toy service history, as had my 2 Prius, both bought new. The body shop car measured paint depth on all panels, mentioned that this car was a Japanese import, said it was one of the better paint jobs, but that the roof undercoating had become contaminated, and said he would submit a report to Toyota head office. Ah well, I thought, thats the end of it, move on, nothing to see here. But......last week I had a phone call from the Body Shop saying that a COMPLETE RESPRAY of the whole had been approved, at a Toy cost of (wait for it) .....£3000! And not only that, but I would get a loan Yaris auto for the 2/3 weeks of stripping the car down completely! All I can say is that current a Toyota is the ONLY car to buy, and that letting the main agent service the car is the most intelligent thing a person can do It seems that I just had to tell this story, as it gob smacks most folk, but is probably the very best word of mouth advertising Mr Toy could ever spend money on
  45. 3 points
  46. 3 points
    For those who wear spectacles and experience glare from car lights at night or in poor light conditions, it may be worth looking at the different types of lenses available. For example Zeiss have their DriveSafe lenses, of which one of the benefits is reduced glare from street lights and car lights. My wife has these and found them to be better for her. https://www.zeiss.co.uk/vision-care/en_gb/products-services/spectacle-lenses/drivesafe-lenses.html Obviously there may be alternatives on offer.
  47. 3 points
    problem solved sticking SCV on the diesel pump, replaced and all o.k., just thought id mention it incase someone else gets this at a later date.
  48. 3 points
    As someone who regularly bemoans the lack of common courtesy on our roads, I find it reassuring to see folks on here who are placing the needs of others over their own convenience when stopped in traffic. However, at the risk of causing offence, I would like to suggest that those of you who believe that using Park in traffic is the polite and courteous thing to do are perhaps misguided. In fact, you could be doing more harm than good. Here's why: Moving from P to D takes time. If you're in front of me, and you're fannying around pumping the brake and getting back into gear when you should be acquiring some forward motion, that is going to inconvenience me far more than a bit of brake light glare could. Maybe one person doing this isn't an issue. But if there's a whole queue of well-meaning 'considerate' people ahead, it means I'm probably not going to get through the lights before they change, which is a pretty damned inconsiderate outcome that has the added affect of negatively impacting congestion and pollution! More importantly, I would suggest that you could actually be making the 'dazzle' problem worse for the driver behind by going into P. This is because you are going to need to hit the brake again to get back into Drive. In other words, you are going to 'dazzle' the person behind - whose eyesight has adjusted to your lights being off - with a brief burst of illumination right at the very point when they are looking to pull away. Surely, this is worse, and potentially even more hazardous? I will be honest and admit that I'm not entirely convinced that the dazzle thing is a genuine concern. I was taught years ago to 'avert my eyes' from brake lights if waiting in traffic, rather than staring at them transfixed until my pupils reduced to pinpricks. It's not hard to do, and I am therefore in the 'leave my foot on the brake' camp myself. However, I respect the view that brake lights could still be seen as 'impolite'. If that is indeed your view, then I would suggest the better option is the one suggested by Joseph D and others: just knock your car into neutral and put the handbrake on. The HSD charging thing is a red herring edge-case. And at least then you can switch back to D without touching the dazzle pedal, and pull away nearly as swiftly as you could if you left your foot on the brake! To add some further information which may be of interest to Toyota HSD owners, my Lexus hybrid has a 'brake hold' function which I originally thought might offer a 'best of both worlds' solution. It lets you take your foot off the brake after a couple of seconds in stationary traffic, and automatically releases when you get back on the throttle. Unfortunately it is more like the worst of both worlds. The brake lights actually stay on even after you take your foot off the pedal, AND it adds an annoying delay when you try to get going again. Technology hasn't answered this one, yet!
  49. 3 points
    The following advice is intended as a guide as to how to replace the fuel filter in a Toyota Rav 4, 4.3. Tools Required: Non-latex gloves (do not underestimate the mess diesel will make of your hands.. nasty stuff!) 10mm spanner or socket Old rags or kitchen roll Pipe grips Jam jar Removal With the bonnet open, locate the fuel filter at the back right of the engine bay, behind the air filter: Remove the air filter by unclipping the three clips round the side and prising open from the front. Unscrew the clamp with either a large cross head screw driver or a 10mm socket (red circle). Disconnect the plug (blue circle): And remove the air filter itself: You can remove the lower section of the air filter housing but I did not feel this was necessary. You'll notice there are four hoses connected to the fuel filter housing. Its very important you reconnect these later in the correct order.. Mine had been colour marked as you can see in the picture. the reality is you cannot connect them wrong as they are shaped and as such will sit in the right place when the new filter is fitted. To disconnect the hoses squeeze the clips with your fingers and slide them a few cm further up the hose away from the filter. This way they stay attached and you have no risk of losing them into the engine bay: Now slide the hose off the metal pipe. Have some kitchen roll or a rag ready as you will get some spillage out of some of the hoses. With the hoses disconnected unscrew the bolt holding the fuel filter to the bracket using a 10mm socket or spanner: Unhook the cable from the bracket by sliding it horizontally then dropping it down. If you can disconnect the cable now then go ahead. Otherwise disconnect once you have the filter partially out and the connector is above the support bar in the picture. Be careful with this as this is a water sensor that sits within the filter. You need to re-use this bit and is probably not cheap to replace: The filter unit is now free to be removed from the car. Remove the cut out in the plastic trim directly above the filter by gently (but firmly) pulling it upwards. Then slide the filter unit up off the bracket and out: This is where i run out of photos as my hands were covered in diesel whilst changing the filter so taking pictures became impossible! Sorry! First thing to do is to drain the filter. On the bottom you will see a drain plug. unscrew this until the diesel starts to flow. Pour this into a jam jar or similar. Before it empties, close the valve again and shake the whole filter. this should free up some of the dirt so when you poor the rest of the diesel into the jar you should see a lot of the crud that was stuck in there... (Only if you're interested!): This was my jam jar: Once the diesel is drained you need to unscrew the plastic sensor. If you cannot do this by hand use pipe grips or similar but be careful not to squeeze too hard. You do not want to damage the sensor. Once off you need to unscrew the filter itself. Again if necessary use pipe grips to slacken the filter and unscrew. Installation: Now do everything in reverse order with the new filter but considering the following points: Never reuse the o-rings you've taken off the filter. there will be a new one in the box. Use it. Install the filter first. wet the o-rings with a touch of diesel or engine oil before tightening. Once tightened, do not slacken as you may not get the same good seal due to the o-ring reshaping. Tighten the filter by hand until it makes contact then tighten another 3/4 turn (still by hand). I used pipe grips just to ensure the seal was there as i struggled to get the 3/4 turn by hand. Fit the sensor again tightening by hand until firm. I gave it a tweak with the pipe grips because my hands were covered in diesel so could't ensure it was tight. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. You are screwing plastic into metal. Over-tightening risk stripping the plastic threads. If you do this you will need a new sensor. Once reassembled, fit back into the car in the opposite order to removal. i.e.: Connect sensor cabling (Note when re-seating the connector to the bracket it pushes up from below opposed to sliding in as per removal) Place filter onto bracket and screw into place using 10mm bold Connect all hoses except the one with the arrow pointing away from the filter: You are now ready to prime the system... With the hose still off and a rag over the end of the metal pipe, pump the black plunger: Pumping could take a couple of minutes so keep at it. The plunger will begin to go hard and the fuel will begin to flow out the open pipe. Stop pumping and reconnect the hose. Pump a little more to continue to push the diesel through. The plunger will become quite firm. Remember to refit your air filter and the plastic trim directly above the filter before attempting to start the car! Start the car. It may turn over a few times before taking. Once it starts it may sound rough as the air gets pushed out the system. Once it's idling happily rev it a bit and make sure all is running well. Step back and admire your handiwork!! ------ Any inaccuracies or recommendations let me know and i'll fix it. Webblers
  50. 3 points
    Various methods: "Programming New Keys" STEPS: 1. Begin by sitting in the driver seat with all the doors shut. 2. Insert your working master (black) key in the ignition. 3. Very Quickly, turn the key from "LOCK" to "ON" 5 times. (You will end with the key in the "LOCK" position) [the 5 on-offs just need to be < 1 second each (you can hear something switching in the engine bay after 1 second switched to on - you've probably just got to beat that).] 4. Immediately, open and close the driver door 6 times very quickly. (End with the door closed) 5. Immediately, remove your working Master Key and insert your new Master Key 6. Turn the key to the "ON" position and leave it there while you wait for 1 minute. 7. After the minute, if you want to program another key, just remove the first one and insert the next one, turning it to "ON" and leaving it in position for 1 minute. 8. When you are through programming keys, just take the last one out, open and then close the driver door to lock in the programming, and your done. Programming Sub Keys (Grey) is done the same way except you turn the master key 4 times before you open and close the door 5 times. Then insert the sub key, turn to the "ON" position, and wait your minute. Finish by removing the key and opening and closing the door 1 time as before. Linking your Key to car locks: Better to start with confirmation mode first to know that how many keys are already programmed to it. Here's the info (I have only tried and tested the "ADD" function) : There are four different programming commands when setting up or verifying your remote transmitter, they are: A. Add mode, used to add a remote to your Prius that is not currently registered. B. Rewrite mode, used to erase all previously registered remotes and allow you to begin again the programming process. C. Confirmation mode, used to verify the number of remotes that are already programmed in your Prius. D. Prohibit mode, to prohibit all remotes from operating the door locks. All four modes start with these instructions: 1) Make sure that the key is not in the ignition, the doors are unlocked, and the driver's door is open. 2) Very quickly, without turning, insert and remove key from the ignition twice. (leave key out) 3) Close and open the driver door twice. (leave door in open position) 4) Again, insert key into the ignition and remove it. This time only once. (leave key out) 5) Close and open the driver door twice, then close the door. 6) Insert key into the ignition and leave it in the LOCK position. A. Add mode: A1) Turn the key to "ON" for 1 second, then turn back to "LOCK". A2) Remove the key. A3) Youll hear the doors "LOCK" and 1 second later "UNLOCK" (just listen) A4) On your remote, press the lock and unlock buttons simultaneously for 1 to 1½ seconds, then let go. A5) On your remote, IMMEDIATELY press unlock by itself. A6) Youll get one of three responses: R1) Youll hear the doors "LOCK", then "UNLOCK" once. The remote is accepted. If you want to program another remote, immediately proceed to step A4 with your second remote, otherwise open the drivers door and the remote is registered. R2) Youll hear the doors "LOCK", then "UNLOCK" twice. Either you didnt use the same remote in steps A4 and A5(not likely), or this remote was already registered. The timing was off when you pressed the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously and then UNLOCK by itself. Immediately press the two buttons together and the unlock by itself again. Keep trying until you get the locks to signal once that you have been successful. Then if you have another remote to program, quickly press its' buttons as before, until you hear the locks signal once. When you are finished, open and close the driver door to lock in the programming. R3) If no response, go back to step 1 near the beginning of these instructions. B. Rewrite mode: B1) Turn the key to "ON" for 1 second, turn back to "LOCK" for 1 second, then back to "ON" for 1 second, and finally back to "LOCK" for 1 second B2) Remove the key. B3) Youll hear the doors "LOCK", 1 second later "UNLOCK", 1 sec., "LOCK", 1 sec. "UNLOCK". (just listen) B4) On your remote, press the lock and unlock buttons simultaneously for 1 to 1½ seconds, then let go. B5) On your remote, IMMEDIATELY press unlock by itself. B6) Youll get one of three responses: R1) Youll hear the doors "LOCK", then "UNLOCK" once. The remote is accepted. If you want to program another remote, immediately proceed to step B4, otherwise open the drivers door and the remote is registered. R2) Youll hear the doors "LOCK", then "UNLOCK" twice. You didnt use the same remote in steps B4 and B5(not likely). R3) If no response, go back to step 1 near the beginning of these instructions. C. Confirmation mode: C1) Turn the key in 1 to "ON" and back to "LOCK" in one second intervals for a total of 3 times. C2) Remove the key. C3) Youll hear the doors "LOCK" and "UNLOCK" in 2 second intervals. (just listen and count each set) 1 Set = You have 1 remote registered 2 Sets = You have 2 remotes registered 3 Sets = You have 3 remotes registered 4 Sets = You have 4 remotes registered 5 Sets = You do NOT have any remotes registered D. Prohibit mode: D1) Turn the key to "ON" and back to "LOCK" in one second intervals a total of 5 times. D2) Remove the key. D3) Youll hear the doors "LOCK", 1 second later "UNLOCK" 5 times. (just listen and count each set) D4) This will erase all previously registered remotes and cancel the wireless door lock function.



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