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Auto Gearbox Oil - Recommended Grade, Quanity Etc


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#1 riscyrich

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 10:29 PM

Hi All

Newbie to the Rav4 forums here and indeed to Rav4's.

Recently bought my mum a Rav4 after her Vectra gave up the ghost. Managed to get a 2dr, 2.0L Auto GX on a N plate with 90k miles on the clock for 1K which seemed reasonable.

Anyway, it needs an MOT soon so I planned to give it a overhaul this weekend.... engine oil flush, new fully synthetic 10w40 oil, plugs, HT leads, air filter, oil filter, brake fluid etc. The one thing I got stuck on was the auto box as I've never owned a car with one so don't really know much about them. I understand that it's pretty important to get the fluid changed in these fellas regular so as the car has done 90k i thought it was about time. However when I was in the local spares shop looking through the lube catalogues with the guys we struggled to find much detail on the Rav4 requirements other than it needs 7 litres ?!?

Can anyone tell me what grade I should get and how much, seven litres seems excessive. I don't work too far from Millers Oils so I was going to drop in tomorrow and pick some up. Also, I understand that there is a filter to change? If so, anyone has some instructions on how to change it and the oil...?

Thanks in advance :thumbsup:

Best regards,

Richard
(riscyrich)
Toyota Rav4
Mazda MX5
BMW 316i

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#2 bothwell_buyer

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Posted 10 May 2007 - 11:36 PM

Hi All

Newbie to the Rav4 forums here and indeed to Rav4's.

Recently bought my mum a Rav4 after her Vectra gave up the ghost. Managed to get a 2dr, 2.0L Auto GX on a N plate with 90k miles on the clock for 1K which seemed reasonable.

Anyway, it needs an MOT soon so I planned to give it a overhaul this weekend.... engine oil flush, new fully synthetic 10w40 oil, plugs, HT leads, air filter, oil filter, brake fluid etc. The one thing I got stuck on was the auto box as I've never owned a car with one so don't really know much about them. I understand that it's pretty important to get the fluid changed in these fellas regular so as the car has done 90k i thought it was about time. However when I was in the local spares shop looking through the lube catalogues with the guys we struggled to find much detail on the Rav4 requirements other than it needs 7 litres ?!?

Can anyone tell me what grade I should get and how much, seven litres seems excessive. I don't work too far from Millers Oils so I was going to drop in tomorrow and pick some up. Also, I understand that there is a filter to change? If so, anyone has some instructions on how to change it and the oil...?

Thanks in advance :thumbsup:

Best regards,

Richard
(riscyrich)
Toyota Rav4
Mazda MX5
BMW 316i


In looking at my Haynes manual, (which is printed for the US market) but is the same car, for an automatic transaxle, on a '96 car, the capacity is 3.3 litres for a 4 wheel drive automatic; using Toyota automatic transaxle fluid type T or T-IV or equivalent.
Transfer case lubricant (4WD with auto) is API GL-5 75W-90 gear oil.
Hope this helps a bit and I assume the 'transaxle is the auto box.
7.7 litres is mentioned for models from 1997, but it drops to 3.3L from 1998. 1996 is 3.3 litres on a drain and refill.
Its recommended to change the oil and filter every 30k miles.
Its recommended to change the fluid whilst its warm (the fluid and not you!) by raising the car on jackstands; and having a drain pan that can take 4 litres. The drain plug is a 10mm allen key fit.
"Remove the front transaxle pan bolts, then loosen the rear bolts and carefully pry the pan loose with a screwdriver and allow remaining fluid to drain....remove the bolts and lower the pan. "remove the filter bolts, disconnecting the clips on some models and lower the filter from the transaxle...watching for more residue fluid.
Place the new or cleaned filter (if mesh) in position; connect the clip (if it was there..) and fit bolts. Torque to 9.5Nm.
Clean gasket surface of fluid pan , remove magnets noting their position, and wash out pan with solvent then dry it. Put back magnets, install a new gasket, and fit bolts in original position to 4.8Nm in your case.
Lower the vehicle, remembering to remove yourself from under it. add new fluid through the dipstick tube, using a funnel to prevent spills, adding a little at a time and checking level with dipstick.
Start engine and run in positions thru P to L then shift to P and apply handbrake.. With the engine idling, check fluid level and add fluid up to Cool level on the dipstick.

I hope this makes sense to you, as I have a manual '94 RAV, but I've basically copied from the manual.

on engine oil, it mentions 10W-30 & just under 4 litres capacity.

Dunno how you get spares, but from memory good ol Toyo charged me 60 for a set of plugs. Needless to say, after 170,000+ miles I still have the original HT leads. I'm now changing them as I am swapping the engine.
Can't believe how little you paid for the RAV! Anyway, one or two other things on a RAV that age is the petrol breather tube could be rusted - proven if you smell petrol. I found the rear springs and shocks needed replaced but you can get them off the market without going to Toyo. The RAVs seem to go through front discs so if the MOT garage says they need replaced (they are only 18mm thick, ventilated, ) then don't pay a fortune for Toyo discs as they are a waste of money. There are various other options which are cheaper and better.

Have fun,

Ian :rolleyes:

#3 riscyrich

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 10:35 AM

Thanks Ian, you are a star !

I'll have a look at the breather hose....

I think I best go to the dealership for the auto oil as it's not something I want to get wrong.

I popped for the 10w40 oil as opposed to the 10w30 as the car has 90k+ on it. Plus with it being full synthetic I've know it make engines a little more tappy than mineral - not that I would ever dream of using mineral these days. I good flush with engine additive, flushing oil and the 10w40 should be OK. I read somewhere that other people use 10w40 without problem. Anyone know if the 2.0L block have solid or hydraulic lifters ?

If anyone has any other pointers I should look out for I would very much appreciate any help.

Suppose I should by a Haynes manual :-)

Thanks again.

Best regards,

Richard
(riscyrich)
Toyota Rav4
Mazda MX5
BMW 316i

#4 bothwell_buyer

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:19 AM

Thanks Ian, you are a star !

I'll have a look at the breather hose....

I think I best go to the dealership for the auto oil as it's not something I want to get wrong.

I popped for the 10w40 oil as opposed to the 10w30 as the car has 90k+ on it. Plus with it being full synthetic I've know it make engines a little more tappy than mineral - not that I would ever dream of using mineral these days. I good flush with engine additive, flushing oil and the 10w40 should be OK. I read somewhere that other people use 10w40 without problem. Anyone know if the 2.0L block have solid or hydraulic lifters ?

If anyone has any other pointers I should look out for I would very much appreciate any help.

Suppose I should by a Haynes manual :-)

Thanks again.

Best regards,

Richard
(riscyrich)
Toyota Rav4
Mazda MX5
BMW 316i


Section 2A-12 of the Haynes manual describes the strip down of the camshafts and removal of the metal lifters which "have a prescribed oil clearance dimension. Should this be excessive, then a new head/ and or lifters will be required".
Can't help much on this as my first engine seized and I never got round to stripping it down. The 2ndhand one came complete so I didn't do any work on it as it was to be a short term fix until i sourced a 3SGTE turbo engine.

The breather hose is behind the plastic shroud in the rear nearside wheel well - I managed to shear 3 bolts in removing the plastic which is there to prevent damage to the petrol filler tube and breather but also acts as a muck trap which corroded the breather pipe very badly, although the filler wasn't too bad. I replaced the breather with new plastic fuel tube and braided protection; and a re-inforced plastic fuel filler hose (Demon Tweaks) which after heating with warm water, got it over the original filler pipe; replacing all the hoseclips too. I did this as some ****** had used the petrol tank to jack up the car some time in the past and it was well bent and beginning to corrode. Another good secondhand tank suitably prep'd with paint etc (as well as the filler pipe). If you look underneath, you'll see how easy it is to use the tank as a jacking point!
Funnily enough (or not) I had a Previa '94 from new which had to have its breather pipe replaced well under 100k miles.
I can understand your change of oil. The 3SFE engine might last a little longer ! My problem had been my daughters using the RAV and despite being told that the crankcase oil seal was leaking, didn't bother checking the oil level! :crybaby: It seems thats what fathers are for (cheek or reality?). Engine having seized though, I got the car back for myself and they went onto buy their own.

Good luck with yours,
Ian

#5 bothwell_buyer

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:58 AM

I should have begun by saying welcome to the world of RAVs !!!

#6 riscyrich

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 12:13 PM

Ian

Super, so no hydraulics then. That's good news as I was worried for a moment that the grade of the oil might create problems.

Understand completely about the father/daughter car relationship. I'm the family garage / DIY'er / electrician / plumber etc. Which means I not only service mine and the wifes, I also get lumbered with mum's, dad's, and two sisters cars (and their boyfriends). Thankfully my brother has managed to work out how to do his own. Saying that, I would rather do it myself as I hate the way some garages treat and charge people.

Get this - I've just been down to Toyota garage in Bradford to pick up the auto oil. Asked for a price to do it to which I got, "What you don't want us to do a full service?". I laughed at her and said I would do it myself (that will teach me to go to service dept in a suit). She then came back with a price to change the auto box & diff oil...

Auto oil @ 4 Litres = 40
Diff oil = 20
1 hours labour = 99 ! !

Total =159 FFS

I then told the very obnoxious service lady to get me the parts guy as I just wanted the oil. He came out and sold me the 4 litres of auto oil for 22...

What's even better is an old fella came in at the same time as me, just wanted a battery changing in his key. There were going to charge him 60 to do it ! ! He turned to me and said, "I'll use the f*****g key at that price". Service lady then came back with key and said they couldn't do it anyway as it was an import.

And I though Mazda in Bradford were a set of b***ards....

Cheers

Rich

#7 bothwell_buyer

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 12:34 PM

Ian

Super, so no hydraulics then. That's good news as I was worried for a moment that the grade of the oil might create problems.

Understand completely about the father/daughter car relationship. I'm the family garage / DIY'er / electrician / plumber etc. Which means I not only service mine and the wifes, I also get lumbered with mum's, dad's, and two sisters cars (and their boyfriends). Thankfully my brother has managed to work out how to do his own. Saying that, I would rather do it myself as I hate the way some garages treat and charge people.

Get this - I've just been down to Toyota garage in Bradford to pick up the auto oil. Asked for a price to do it to which I got, "What you don't want us to do a full service?". I laughed at her and said I would do it myself (that will teach me to go to service dept in a suit). She then came back with a price to change the auto box & diff oil...

Auto oil @ 4 Litres = 40
Diff oil = 20
1 hours labour = 99 ! !

Total =159 FFS

I then told the very obnoxious service lady to get me the parts guy as I just wanted the oil. He came out and sold me the 4 litres of auto oil for 22...

What's even better is an old fella came in at the same time as me, just wanted a battery changing in his key. There were going to charge him 60 to do it ! ! He turned to me and said, "I'll use the f*****g key at that price". Service lady then came back with key and said they couldn't do it anyway as it was an import.

And I though Mazda in Bradford were a set of b***ards....

Cheers

Rich


Must say I had a chuckle at this!! I dumped the Toyo dealer (from whom I'd bought a new Previa and RAV in '94) after I caught him out when charged 360 for a service - and that was in 1997 ! Stuff supposedly replaced hadn't been and I had a quiet word with a mechanic friend who said he'd heard it was common for the dealer to add things on, despite not doing the work. I sold the Previa 5 years ago as the kids were grown up, and the rear axle was beginning to be noisy and I couldn't afford a new mortgage for a replacement.
And I thought I was the only softy in the world - my father (88 and still driving) refused to trade in his 3 year old Punto despite my advice that its 17,000 miles had not been spent above 2nd gear and that the car was tired. He thought better and kept it, needing only a tyre (bald from wheel spinning starts in 1st gear with revs at 5600rpm!). 3 weeks alter the exhaust falls off! Do I step in? No - on principle! He paid 150 for a new one out of KwikFit which seems ok. Next will be his clutch!
And yes, I still get asked to check the oil levels on the kids cars; change wheels at the dead of night when they get a flat after driving over a pothole...then taking the bent wheels to get fixed at one of the friendliest tyre and wheel merchants I've ever met (Ian at Autoimage in Glasgow). He is amused at how many cars I seem to have! Just got 2 wheels back from him this week with another 3 to get tyres done next week.

Anyway, well done on the fast learning curve and getting the oil so cheap. Its about time Toyo got to grips with their after sales service provision...I had arguments with the local dealer (now a different one surprise surprise) that you could change the damper in the front struts without having to buy the whole thing. Ended up buying adjustable dampers from Demon Tweeks and the fitting was easy...with the strut coming apart by unscrewing the damper retaining nut. Saved a fortune and gained from now having adjustables.

Wanna buy a '64 Humber Hawk? Thats the next project if I get time!!

#8 riscyrich

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 03:39 PM

Funny how when you have to do all these things you find the nicer places to deal with.

I know a wheel place not far from me at Stanningley bottom run by a couple of young lads who are nothing short of diamond geezers. They only charge me a fiver to fit and balance a new tyre, usually bung them a tenner though as they do it there and then, no messing.

Also know a local garage called Viaduct Autos run by two chaps called Kev & Phil. Really good honest fellas who only do what needs doing - no made up extras. I get them to do all the major jobs for me like suspension, bearings, clutches etc. They let me run up 100's of pounds of work and leave it weeks before they call it in, so pretty trusting too.

Cheers

Rich

#9 dave.m

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 05:19 PM

Hi Rich, welcome to the club. Hope you guy's dont mind me getting my 2'ps worth in, but I'm sitting reading
this forum having a chuckle and am totally gobsmacked. (dont take that the wrong way) It allways totally
amazes that guys like bothwell buyer and loads of others take so much time and effort to answer threads
like this (very technical). Rich I hope you are well impressed, BB good on you.

Cheers,

Dave.

PS BB what was the Toyota dealer you dumped ? (without naming them) being that you and I are pretty
local, was it the one in Lanarkshire which no longer has a Toyota franchise ?

#10 bothwell_buyer

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 09:02 PM

Hi Rich, welcome to the club. Hope you guy's dont mind me getting my 2'ps worth in, but I'm sitting reading
this forum having a chuckle and am totally gobsmacked. (dont take that the wrong way) It allways totally
amazes that guys like bothwell buyer and loads of others take so much time and effort to answer threads
like this (very technical). Rich I hope you are well impressed, BB good on you.

Cheers,

Dave.

PS BB what was the Toyota dealer you dumped ? (without naming them) being that you and I are pretty
local, was it the one in Lanarkshire which no longer has a Toyota franchise ?



Hi Rich, welcome to the club. Hope you guy's dont mind me getting my 2'ps worth in, but I'm sitting reading
this forum having a chuckle and am totally gobsmacked. (dont take that the wrong way) It allways totally
amazes that guys like bothwell buyer and loads of others take so much time and effort to answer threads
like this (very technical). Rich I hope you are well impressed, BB good on you.

Cheers,

Dave.

PS BB what was the Toyota dealer you dumped ? (without naming them) being that you and I are pretty
local, was it the one in Lanarkshire which no longer has a Toyota franchise ?

Probably a good guess. Its name was re-worked by me to Kraps. I don't mind telling people cos they made a mint out of me! I don't even buy petrol there now! :P

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