Latest Posts

boyse7evn if you need some spare immobiliser chips to try and program, you can have my spare chips I have from my 3 fobs that I didn't need as I managed to get my remote locking to work (in the thread above.) I'll post them to you free of charge. If you PM your address I can send you them. I don't need them so they can go to good use.

NCB has changed in the last 3 years max NCB is 9 years, and the stepback on some polices is horrendous

I've noticed similar with my Icon, definitely feel the sun on the skin more strongly than my previous VW hatch. It doesn't really affect me unless there is lower sun through the drivers side window.

nice, enjoy!

You are looking at it wrong. 88703 is the pipe, next to the pipe there is a number 1 in a circle, look at the bottom right of the pictures, number 1 is the o ring (and 2 and 3) for the other O Rings. The part number is alongside number 1

this thread is for the Mk 1 And 2 the mk3 uses a different system and you need a scan tool to program the immobilizer even more so with the smart key programming the remote locking can be a pain

In theory you should be able to swap the immobiliser chip from key 2 to key 3 so you can have a spare key that unlocks remotely and start the car unless someone on here has more knowledge? The little immobiliser chips are located inside the remote plastic housing, the little black chip. I'll attach a picture of the chip where it is located. As long as its blank, it should be able to be programmed. You obviously need the master key to do it. I can't test, unfortunately, as I lack a master key for my car.

Hi everyone, What is lowest temperature for YC hybrid 2023? Would it be operational at temperatures like -20 Celsius? Regards

to the op Part number and sizes are in your first post as is dia, if you look at the hose it gives a number in a circle and the quantity for that hose in brackets eg. (2) as you posted you need a 1x No.1 and 1x No.2 for AC you need Hydrogenated Nitrile (HNBR-70) o-rings

Ah, my mistake then.

Thank you i'll start looking into that now, I was also looking for a starter relay to check that as well but I'm finding conflicting info over the existence of said relay in the aygo, can you confirm whether there is one or not? Also any help on how to check for the 2 issues you mentioned would be appreciated

At the end of the day, NCB/D protection protects the discount one receives for making no claims. It doesn't protect one's premium. It is down to an individual's choice whether they protect their NCB/D or not, so respect that choice. Keep discussion polite as per the forum rules, and move on.

https://www.en.japanclassic.ru/booklets/524-toyota-land-cruizer-prado-2008-trj120-grj120.html#

These are great cars. Two major problem but these are specific for the uk and other markets 1. Car thefts 2. On some awd models rear motor high voltage cable connectors corroded- out of warranty is an expensive repair. Perhaps in New Zealand you won’t have to deal with those, less crime, no salt on the roads. 👍

Cvt transmission has specific way how to replace oil. Only hybrids eCVT has drain and refill procedure similar to manual transmission but all other cvt’s has their own way. Car transmission lose oil when axle been off for other repairs and some mechanics never bother to top up. Great that all been sorted for you quickly.

well they are 6 studs at a guess J120 Landcruiser 2002-2009 https://jamielawlor.com/alloy-wheel-refurbishment-2/ 6 Spoke 7.5Jx17 + 30 PCD 139.7 x 6 Edit. 42611-60721 Edit 2. 04/2008-08/2008

I don’t think it’s a good idea to use any of these assorted o rings in ac applications or in a places with high pressure, or precise fit. Check with the dealer if they can have some original o rings.

You don’t need to replace any fluids. Just both batteries 12v and 240v . Total cost over £2000. The petrol you drain can do with electric pump, Lidl, Aldi sells these or Amazon, then via the filler neck. Then start the car and let it work for an hour or so. See how it runs, do some drives and then if all ok replace engine oil and filter, cabin filter, air filter. That’s all. Brake fluid too. 👍 Good luck and let us know how the things are going 👌

The operation of a starter is fairly simple: When the key is turned to ignition, power is sent to the starter solenoid. The solenoid is basically a relay that closes the circuit on the starter motor. When that happens, a gear attached to the starter will extends, engage the teeth at the side of the flywheel and spin at the same time. When you release the key from the ignition position, the solenoid disengages, power will be lose at the motor, the gear that drives the flywheel will retract. Now, the crunching sound is basically the solenoid got an ignition signal. The gear inside the starter extends and engages a moving flywheel. When that happens, the starter will die very quickly. Since this event happened twice to 2 different starter, it generally points toward an ignition fault (at the key barrel) OR some wire (relating to ignition) is intermittingly shorting to ground. P.S. I agree with the recommendation above. I would definitely start with the key barrel.

I'd intended to post one of this fella's video's a few weeks ago but didn't because it wasn't Toyota specific, I still thought it an interesting subject for any car owner really but hadn't gotten around to it, now he's done one that is specific to the Toyota Proace so I thought I'd share it, it's an interesting topic because it poses the question as to whether certain vehicles are pre-programmed to throw up a fault, those vehicles are the Stellantis vans (Peugeot/Citroen/Fiat) as mentioned by Frosty, in this instance though the fella reckons this Proace is reporting a fault that its impossible to have, it might be of interest to some.

Thanks forkingabout. Unfortunately the second time I drove about quarter of a mile before the noise came on - so prob not that.

Not a good experience but at least you are well prepared. When things like that happen is kind of rewarding that you as a driver can do the job quickly and efficiently and be on your way in no time. Old school motoring 👌🛞👍

The car was brand new and on the way home he discovered the bolt in the tyre. These or very similar bolts with washers are the fixings of the large plastic cover under the engine, and mechanics often lose these on the floor so if the car was there on PDI check very likely the bolt puncture the tyre at that location. Dealer garages and all industrial places are horribly dirty these days. Poor culture.

Ok, then should not be the tyre sizes , low pressures can cause you issue an though.

No, its a sample of someone who does not have protected NCB