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Use a broker like carwow to get discount.

If the outside air is warmer than the inside and cooling is required, or the outside is colder when heating is required, then the system is likely to use recirc. (In buildings there is usually a minimum fresh air setting and/or air quality monitoring, but cars may not have got to that yet.) If the car is turned off in either of those states, which are pretty common, then it will of course be stuck in recirc.

I have only owned the car since Feb last year, and before that it was owned by my mother since it was 18 months old. I looked at the receipts she got from the garage that serviced it for her and on the one receipt it said 0W-20 and on another it said 5W-30. The current oil it has in it is 5W-30 which was put in 6000 miles ago. The engine is very free revving, in fact, I'd say a bit too rev-happy and it a bit tappety but they all tend to be. I've never had a garage change the oil on my cars in the past, I've always done it myself as I've driven mainly older cars and I would go to the motor factors, buy a filter, some 5W-30 and change the oil myself. But this car has a different style of oil filter to what I'm used to and it also needs the a/c re-gassing, so Kwik Fit will be sorting it all out for me this time. I will ask them to use 0W-20, but if that is what Toyota specify, then it's probably what they will use. Certain cars are very fussy about oil grade, especially those with internal "wet" cam belts that run like a timing chain, bathed in engine oil, so the oil grade used in them is absolutely critical or the belt will degrade and block the oil strainer with belt residue, but with a timing chain, as long as you use a good quality oil and change the oil every 10K miles I dont think whether its 0W-20 or 5W-30 would be that critical.

You are welcome. I think personally Toyota make the best hybrids from all others and they have best warranty terms plus they are most reliable and simple to work on after warranty period. Honda and Mazda have good cars too with probably slightly plusher interiors but they are nowhere near Toyota hybrid system technology. You can try both Yaris and see how you like them. Corolla also a good car. See Steven Eagell dealers if there are any around, they seems to be a good ones. Good luck

YouTube videos, Auris or Corolla or Prius. Good luck

No need to switch off interior sensor as this is only for if you leave a pet in or leave windows open. Best way is to lock the car with the emergency key build into your key fob. In this case by default the alarm will not be activated and the car will be just locked. To unlock you need to use the same key on your return.

The hvac system doesn’t require any interaction before we turn off the car. In fact if you turn off the ac few minutes before you stop and park the car you will lock moisture in the system and cause bad odour. If you use ac keep it ON all the time and set in auto mode, only ever change temperature as per your requirements. Recirculating mode is activated by the system as needed, and the hvac system remains active after we switch off the car. There are flaps that opens and close to do any vent needed to keep everything in order.

... and that's exactly why I will be regularly removing it to clean underneath it.

Finally! I found out why my car sometimes beeps 8 times at me when I lock it! https://youtu.be/Ly-Gj54P3oA?si=81VL9DputFYL29z4

It would seem (from reading the full manual and my own observations) that in the latest 2024 models equipped with fully automatic climate control, the recirculate/outside air function is now also fully automatic and the lights don't indicate what it is currently doing if the system is in auto and/or dual; unless you manually select either button in which case the light comes on and stays on until either you select the alternate, or, power cycle the car. So, it would seem that the default is now no light indication of recirculating or outside air.

I have a 24MY Corolla TS 1.8 (140). When I initially went through all the meter settings I set the DRCC acceleration setting to the lowest of the three available settings. Thinking being, new car, running in, and if it's too sluggish I can just use the throttle to increase pace. Yesterday it got its first real workout. I found myself in a situation such that, from a crawl, I suddenly had a clear road ahead (with DRCC set to 55mph). I was expecting very gentle acceleration and was thinking that I might need to give the throttle a prod to get it going. Not a bit of it. Acceleration was 'sprightly', way quicker than I was expecting. Revs up, hybrid gauge into the power quadrant. With less than 500 miles on the clock I wouldn't have been pushing that hard if I had been driving 'manually'. Checked the mirror after a few seconds, a car that had been a few metres behind me was now way back. Which left me wondering. Is this as it is supposed to be or do I have a software issue that needs sorting? And if this is normal for the car, just what happens if I change the DRCC acceleration setting to medium or fast? Any thoughts please?

Thanks Bob - much appreciated

On the American forums and Reddit there are people with 400k miles on the clock. Couriers and the like. No major issues.

I understand your point about the flaps being closed if the car is left with the hvac set in recirc mode. However, if I am reading what 'efficient ventilation mode' does correctly, it seems that it will switch the hvac to recirc when the interior of the car is hot and a/c is switched on, in order to bring the temperature down quickly. That's clear, I think. What it doesn’t say is whether, at some point, perhaps after initial cooling has brought the temperature down to whatever is set by the driver, it might return the hvac to fresh air mode (if, for example, that was the original setting). Who knows? I am just not assuming that it would mean that the setting would stay in recirc mode indefinitely whilst the a/c was switched on (and thus that the setting would be in recirc mode when the car was switched off). It would help if Toyota would employ a decent technical author, proficient in English, to sort out its lousy manuals.

After I had the test drive in the Honda Jazz I chatted to the dealer about ‘wiggle room’ on the price and they said there is some so I asked if they could email me with their best price. They said they would after I left the showroom. I’m still waiting for that email I phoned on Saturday to chase them and I am still waiting and as they are closed on Sunday it’s going to be at least Monday before I hear from them I’m pretty certain that my lovely friendly local Toyota dealer wouldn’t even let me leave the dealership without giving me their best offer; I’d still, of course, negotiate even that offer I feel really let down by the Honda dealer. If I don’t hear from them by Tuesday I simply won’t deal with them as it doesn’t bode well for after sales service Also there was a lot of confusion about the Honda extended warranty and service plans and this was from a sales guy who has been working there for quite a while With Toyota on the other hand it’s so simple to understand……..”This is how much a service plan will be which includes breakdown cover (and MOT’s if required) and your warranty is 10 years”… end of The Jazz may well be a nice car but I’m pretty put off at the moment which is why I’m pursuing the Yaris/Cross a bit more

Super thanks for your reply Tony much appreciated

He’s a Nigerian astronaut who hasn’t the funds to get him from the iss back to earth, so , hopefully, he’ll be back soon and give me the 12 cattle he promised me…

Looks good

Yes, wireless AA works fine on my S23U bar the issue I'm having when navigating and playing music at the same time.

Stuff like this is really annoying because it's so difficult to track down. I've listened to the clip again. None the wiser, just a squeaking noise as if something is loose. I have sometimes found with intermittent noises that they are affected by temperature and/or humidity.

Hi. I have a Toyota Auris 2012 1.6 E15 and I want to replace the light in the lower glove box. I've removed the upper glove box to change the light from there but it seems to be fitted in to a unremovable bracket. Can anyone help me with how to change this bulb? Any and all help is appreciated and thanks in advance!!

Because the flaps will probably be left in the recirc position meaning the car is (more or less) sealed from the outside air. When the flaps are left in fresh air position then more air can be exchanged with outside. The net effect will depend on the initial conditions inside the car when left and the outside conditions until it's started again. Typically overnight the temperature will drop leading to condensation inside the car - more if sealed in recirc, less (possibly not a lot - wind will be a factor) if the fresh air vent is open.

Perhaps as good as Yaris or even better. I am not the person who can answer your question but I am sure people who had both will share their opinion. I see so many of both Yaris in and around London. 👌🚙

just so i understand it correctly, you are talking about wireless AA right? cuz wired AA have worked fine for me so far. its the wireless that has problems

Make sure the leads are tight on the battery terminals as I had a prob starting my car and it was the battery.cable came loose all had to to 10mm spanner and tighten the nut an away we went . Look at the altanator and see if it looks fat. puffed up . Then ger a spanner fits the nut on the altanator see if the wheel turns . As our aygo did just that no noise The altanator had got fat all I can explaine it and would not turn it even cracked the casing on the altanator just expanded tight and split the walls . Cost £120 for new one as the £45 would not fit as it has AC ..