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Bold

I always use a soaked paper towel and leave it on the poop to soften it; It should just slide off. Don't try and scrape it off as that'll risk damaging the lacquer - The adhesive qualities of bird poop are surprisingly strong!

I would think it's possible that the rings that the sensors read could be badly corroded and/or very dirty, rather than the sensor itself being faulty. Have a wire brush to hand as well (though if the teeth are far gone the ring will need replacing).

looks like aftermarket front sensors, a very generic rocker switch look at the front bumper for sensors 2 in the black grille and one on each side in the body-coloured part put the car in D, foot on the brake and get someone to walk in front of the car you should here it

I think the ones that deposited on mine all came from Chernobyl….

Resolute.

Where we live, along with “normal” garden birds, we have a proliferation of wood pigeons, crows, a few magpies, and gulls - the latter having learned to be around when school children are travelling to and from school - plus a local idiot adult who puts out food in their garden for them. The discharge from these quite large birds can produce very large splodges and streaks, made worse by the unsuitable food the birds have ingested. Apart from cars, house walls, windows and doors are all at risk. The only solution is to keep an eye open (but don’t look up!☂️), and clean off with copious amounts of water.

Young Bev I’d say like my dealer it will be a design spec

Many of the speed bumps - broken or continuous - are built from (usually red) blocks. In the majority of these cases the edges are quite steep, and often show signs of scraping on the leading and trailing edges of the bumps. Modern production cars very often have low valances at the front. And cars do travel with their suspensions lower than their static design when fully loaded with passengers and/or luggage. Regardless of a slow speed, such loaded cars will suddenly drop at their rear end as the rear wheels leave the bump. I wonder how far the road authorities and car makers cooperate (if at all) to ensure that there is no conflict between vehicle and bumps under all practical situations? My guess is that they do not! The only event that I am aware of, where the council responded to complaints about the bumps (outside the local primary school),is when the local service buses were suffering damage and, in hot weather, the downward force of the buses leaving the bumps was causing the road tarmac to rut. The raises ridges at the gutter were also a danger to people, including children, when crossing the road, from risk of ankle injury. Now, these two bumps can be comfortly navigated at 30 mph without significant response from the car’s suspension. Just goes to show, when the “right” persons complain, the council will listen and act!

Having just washed my car I noticed a big dollop of bird !Removed! right next to the front Toyota badge, pressure washing wouldn’t shift it so I used the stuff they gave me included in the kit when I had the paint protection done, I’ve noticed a slight mark in the paint, I’ve tried polishing it out and, it’s helped a bit, but its still there, I think more aggressive polishing is required but, I’m having a paint scuff repair done soon, so I will ask his advice, so, I assume the Toyota paint is the same across the range so, beware, bird !Removed! on your paintwork needs dealing with straight away…

I have a 21 Rav4 4 PHEV and an account with Octopus. They supplied and fitted an Ohme charger. For the first week it wouldn't charge. Then, suddenly, it would 99% of the time. Now it is down to about 50% certain it will charge. Here is the thing:- 1. There is no developed interface between Ohme and Toyota vehicles. 2. The interface between Octopus and Ohme isn't fully developed. 3. Any mistake/glitch/mismatch of systems means the charge doesn't happen. 4. Complaints about any of this are batted between Ohme and Octopus with little (no) desire to actually address the problem. As a result of my experience I formally rejected the Ohme charger as unfit for purpose. In fairness, that coincided with the start of the period when it was actually charging so I didn't push the issue. Octopus simple ignored the rejection. Essentially, it seems to me, you have to just bodge it. > Remove ALL schedules from the car. > Set the car to receive a charge when it is offered. > Set the charger to only charge when the overnight rate is active. > Cross your fingers and hope. I agree with other comments that this is an early adoption issue. However, there seems to be no will to fix it and Octopuses claim to of Award Winning Customer Service looks flaky at best. I suggested to them that these problems could be addressed quickly, and at moderate cost by producing vehicle specific instructions of how to regularly achieve a charge. I'm still waiting.

Looks perfect!

Thanks for the info MardyMarvin That makes a lot of sense. However I am still hoping that my dealer will have an Excel or Premiere version available for test drive

Update for anyone else having the same issue:- Jumping pins 4 & 13 on the OBD2 port gets the ABS light flashing codes for a couple of wheel sensors and low voltage. Pumping the brakes during this process resets the ABS module, clearing the codes and letting it once again communicate with my diagnostic tool. Driving the car then puts me back where I was with both the ABS light and brake warning symbol back on, but at least now I know the module is not damaged. Ordered some new sensors so will change them next weekend and examine the loom to see if there is a bad earth or something

Hi Ed, welcome lots of good advice when you need it and always welcome when you give it.

Hi, there is definitely a leak on the liquid pipe. I'm quite happy to make the repair myself but need the spare part to fit to the car.

Hello Ed - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.

It will happen soon...how soon for Toyota cars i don't know but for VAG/BMW it will be very soon as these have always been profitable for people who want to code in or out certain functions. When the Mk8 Golf came out VW said the ECU was locked so you couldn't do this and they said it would be difficult to unlock it. It took about 3 months to unlock the ECU(probably by a 13 year old hacker😁) It about giving people a choice and as i have said certain companies Mazda and even sister company Lexus make it easier to disable these systems.

Reminded me. What did the baby fish say to mummy fish? "Mummy, do you believe in Cod?".

Sounds like your battery is done for. Might be worth doing a last check with a volt meter after the battery has been stood overnight without any charger on. It will probably read zero volts or close to it, but anything under 8 volts usually means unrecoverable. If you go check with Halfords or even a Toyota dealer with your reg number to compare, you might get a good deal. As always, I recommend Yuasa batteries. Good luck 🤞 PS,if you have nowhere secure to leave a new battery on charge while on the car, you could just have the battery in the house on a trickle with your ctek, then refit it when you intend using the car.

When I push the start button thr info screen comes up with a shade of blue questionnaire and I have to answer it for it to go. How do I avoid this so I don’t have to answer it every time or is it compulsory.

I've got more chance of a date with Drew Barrymore then Toyota updating earlier vehicles to wireless Android Auto. Just buy a AA Wireless dongle as they work perfectly.

I haven't bothered with the video, but I love the topic title - typos can be divine! 🙂

Hello everyone, I should have introduced myself a few weeks ago. I’m a have-a-go-diy-wannabe-mechanic ?? I was tired of getting ripped off at garages etc and realised how much money you can save by doing things yourself and I actually enjoy working on me car. These forums have been priceless to me especially when I do something silly, you never know maybe I can help someone else out. Thanks

If you are certain that there is a leak on one of the air con pipes (and in which case the air con will not be working at all at this time as all the pressurized refrigerant will have escaped to the air) then its either a dealer or independent air con specialist. Are you 100% certain about the leak and the pipe? If the air con works its not what you think it is.