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I have a new 24MY with the same 1.8 engine. I don't think that it is exactly the same but there were some changes in the 23MY facelift. All I can see in that area is what I suspect is the wiring loom for the two electric radiator fans; and there are no disconnected plugs. It would seem logical that those plugs should be connected, otherwise why are they there? If they are for the rad fans, with summer around the corner, it might be wise to get the dealer to look at it.

I didn’t know the reason why it was there but I didn't really think that it was anything to do with the dealer. My car came from a fleet sales operation, not retail (without going into the details... it is mine, not a company car, and owned rather than leased). The standard of prep was low, as is the norm for such cars; it is the price you pay for the price you pay, so to speak. So I wasn't expecting any freebies!

The 130HP is on the Yaris Premiere and GR Sport specs; Not sure about which Yaris Cross specs get it. Possibly the same, but may be more as its extra bulk would benefit from that extra oomph! To my knowledge, all the Mk4s with the old '2-knob' headunit didn't get Satnav, which I believe is 2022 and older (My '21 definitely is satnav-less!) but I think the 2023 ones did get the new headunit that came with Satnav? Others I'm sure will chime in to clarify!

Oil should be included - They all use automated machines to do it so as long as they press the right buttons (Not a given!) It should evacuate the system then measure out the correct amount of whatever is supposed to go in,

Yes. The short answer is don't put the car into N! You might find the long answer in the manual - if it is better than the Corolla manual. If the traction battery gets low the engine will start to charge it; but only if the car is in D (or B or even in P). The traction battery doesn't get charged in N, hence the warning you saw. If you are stopped at a traffic light and you want to take the car out of D, put it into P; but you don’t need to do that. It is perfectly OK to leave it in D. You won't do any harm at all. It is what the manual recommends. There are no clutches to wear. You could still hold it with the EPB but that is electromechanical and works only on the rear wheels. Better to use the Brake Hold function. Button next to EPB. A firm push on the brake pedal, after you have stopped, activates it. It releases automatically when you press the throttle. It allows you to take your foot off the footbrake because it holds the hydraulic pressure in the brake system. So it works on all 4 wheels.

Hi guys, today I had my headunit start flickering all off a sudden. The screen keeps switching off and on. Does anyone know what’s wrong with it? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. IMG_9987.mov

It is now standard issue on all 2024 model year Toyotas to satisfy Euro NCAP standards. (not a dealer "gimme")

Agreed, the Toyota statement is old news. The article suggests or infers a recent spate of thefts in the Sussex/ Hastings region, if anyone here is from that neck of the woods. Hence flagging more for this reason.

In the main vehicle manual... and... ...in the NAV manual.

One of the fundamental problems with TA in cars is that it is reliant on an FM sub-carrier on the Capitol FM frequency and since DAB & DAB+ came on stream in cars, I don't know of any Head Unit that can successfully switch from DAB to FM and back again after a TA has finished. If you're listening to an FM station, it works just fine but I, for one, haven't listened to an FM station for over 5 years now as DAB is so much better.

I think (the law?) probably requires that a trusted agent decides if it's CAT something before it gets sold off to anybody else. Otherwise any cowboy repairer could make fast money doing cheap fixes. Like any supply chain - the more links the less control.

This is old new news, I think - it merely restates information from the Toyota magazine article in March as discussed in: Back then the security enhancements would be available "in a matter of weeks" / end of April ... it's May now!

Yes, putting the car in N is a big no-no. When you do that it won't charge the traction battery, which charges the 12V battery so the engine will be running for nothing if it's on. The Toyota manual makes this clear, presumably you just missed it in the Suzuki version. Unless you're going to tow your car there's probably no reason for you to use Neutral. There is also nothing wrong with holding the brakes on (or letting the car do it) whilst you're waiting. It won't hurt them and they'll release quicker than the parking brake. If you disagree, just use the Park setting.

Perhaps that explains the difference. This was single carriageway, the car in front of me hadn't changed lane (where it might still have been visible to the camera or radar), it had turned off into a side road; and fairly smartly too as it went through a gap in the oncoming traffic. So it would no longer have been visible to my car. I have found that it typically only reaches about 1mph above the set speed when going downhill. However, I live in Cambs. On the edge of the Fens. Gentle undulations are the order of the day. I've not really driven it down anything steep so far.

What message?

Toyota's customer service for software is crap, but they're great at hardware.

Hi all! Auris 2015 post face lift. Alarm goes off random in the evenings, some times 2-3 times within an hour... Frustrating when youre one eye open almost dead asleep!! Some nights driving there is a bug flying about inside and i cannot seem to get it out for days, weeks even! A grey winged bug. (any suggestion to kill this bug and perhaps any eggs it may have left anywhere inside etc?) Any ideas? I read this suggestion i need to try but skeptical disabling alarm in any way.... On the verge of selling this auris tbh... Chairs sqyeek when going over bigger speedbumps... Ride is kind of stiff and you feel every pot every pebble on the road... Suspension is all good and checked... 😡 But what else is reliable that gives comfort.... And doesnt cost a mortgage...

Just saw this one... May or may not be useful but just in case... https://www.theargus.co.uk/news/24311088.toyota-rav4-cars-stolen-sussex-neighbourhoods/ Some past threads on this forum and the CANbus attack. I understand there's a potential fix for effectively covering or armouring access places to the bus. Alternatively, just get a good steering lock. Someone may want to post the latest position on which years and models this effects. I don't think it effects the PHEV but someone will clarify. And even if it doesn't the thieves may not know or care and mess your car up in the process. Steering lock, visible deterrent. Last thing anyone wants is their car robbed.

I have no idea why the Jazz hasn’t been recalled for such a major issue but apparently in Japan they have been recalled I think you are right Cyker about Toyota spoiling us by generally doing the right thing Am I correct in saying that the 130hp engine is only available in Premiere trim? When you say “older model” do you mean just not a 2024 version? Would a 2023 Yaris model not have sat nav etc? Thanks everyone for your help it’s really appreciated

Hello again, I'm really happy with the Swace now I've got used to the way of modern hybrid cars but today I got a surprise warning pop up on the display. It said something like 'traction battery needs protecting, don't put car in N'. If I'm at my local traffic light junction and I know I've got a bit of a wait I've been putting it in N and applying the handbrake thinking this is letting the car and the brakes relax but I'm obviously wrong. Does anyone know what is going on with this warning? Hopefully my learning curve will also help other people who are new to hybrids...

Was the installation of the Toyota Yaris Cross sides steps similar to the YouTube video on the installation of side steps on the Corolla Cross ?

On a previous VW I had, the setting affected how fast the car responded as well as the level of acceleration for the DRCC but I haven’t noticed much difference in mine between the settings. it’s fairly quick in the Toyota but it does seem to wait a second or so just to be sure that the car in front has really moved into the other lane before accelerating. I would like it to keep the set speed accurately, it should be easy for it as it can use regen braking to do so but it does drift above a few mph.

In the new cars, it's annoying because it appears to be fully automatic for both but crucially, doesn't indicate by way of the LEDs, what the heck it is actually doing!! The numpties! I take no chances now and make sure that I press outside air as part of my startup checks. The only time I use recirculate is if there is some smelly old diesel vehicle that I can see up front...

Some where on one of these forums people have bought a device which enables you to turn a none wireless carplay toyota into a wireless carplay. If you bought this device and then a usb hub and plugged the device into the usb hub and also a music stick I am not sure if this would work or not. Perhaps something for you to research about but it will depend if toyota car will support multiple devices on a single usb port. But something else to think about https://www.amazon.co.uk/CarPlay-Wireless-Bluetooth-Mercedes-2017-2023-Apple/dp/B0BWD31MRT/ref=sr_1_4?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.JXF77UE8EXviCw8sHGKC3KA04cA9g9kvDOap0a2VhDSle9pOzDQfUDAs47j-GlcV4mp2xHHhZQER0uMpZ-QbeOvjdDllaFjdfWBmZUh0OX9mncpoIfzjIDfRiAriASWF15gHgom81h8ireeXM4pqyImA4OIfWyXVTyKp9jh47GQdakbMCt76aIKOWv4-1oAwaEWuPtLIuNvSgKqP09WYHBsaVs3H59_naGhFmfmLuNc.GPVGygTYuZg8OQ_RgTvScVQ_GJcnT8UE1ra2z1MaflY&dib_tag=se&keywords=wireless+carplay&qid=1715547080&sr=8-4

Hello, how do I do this please? I’m having the same issue.