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Ankh

Thanks for that, confuseddotcom🤔

In a weird twist of coincidence, I found a mini/quick start manual and service book jammed in the bottom of my glove box, still shrink-wrapped!, a few months ago - Another point to Jemca as I'm sure that wasn't a standard item with the Mk4's so they must have ordered it in especially?? Very unlike them... Gave the stamp book to the dealer at my last service and they stamped it all the way up to current (Although missed one so now one of the stamps is in the wrong place. Doesn't look suspicious at all! ) I'm mainly doing it in case I sell it, as it just looks better, but if you're going to trade it in to a dealer it's a bit pointless since all the details are stored electronically. Someone reckoned a lot of dealers throw away most paperwork anyway because of GDPR, so only the stamp book and electronic service records would survive in that case! It's a shame as it makes it easier to have confidence in a used car if it has loads of paperwork, receipts for work done etc. and I wouldn't trust a service book alone as evidence for service history as stamps are easy to fake! With me, any invoice for work on the car - Servicing, Brakes, Tyres, even alignment and AC regassing etc. all go into a box file with the car's reg on it and goes with the car when I sell it.

Yes, lots of good advice given. But just to chuck in my twopence worth on courtesy cars pushed by insurance companies and accident management outfits. As I understand it the business model is similar to the car hire one,as in claim for none existent damage, smoking in the car, missing parts,spare wheels, miniscule scratches not detectable by the human eye etc. that the victim, sorry customer finishes up paying for, well them or their insurance company. Of course, this may just be cynicism on my part, and they push this for the benefit of legitimate claiments.

ah you have the later fob as used on the Mk2 Yaris and a bunch of dead fobs

I love a happy ending. 😇

Bizarrely, the 1.8s had smaller lithium packs while the 2.0 had larger NiMH originally IIRC - It's weird as you'd think it'd be the other way around I'm not sure in the new/current models though - I feel like they have gone completely to lithium?

With the engine off, clutch down and first gear selected, the car can be pushed. I was doing this myself with one foot on the ground but the resistance felt roughly the same as when pushing with my foot with the car out of gear... Thank you.

You and me both! Useless doesn't even begin to describe how awful Toyota manuals are at explaining their operation. I've searched the internet and still haven't found an answer.

Congrats! And thanks for coming back to let us know how you got on! Glad you were able to figure out what type of chip you needed - That is usually the hardest part to figure out if you don't have an original master key!!

You still have USB to connect a wired device to ignore the green socket Your car already has its own DCM

Sounds pretty normal to me, my mother has a 2019 Icon tech 1.5 petrol and hers sounds pretty much the same. They do have pretty poor silencers on the exhaust on these, with only a small straight through back box that makes the car sound throaty on accelaration, its the same on the 1.33 engines too, they dont have a proper size back box and are quite noisy too. It would be unlikely you have an exhaust leak and I dont think it is that anyway going on the recording. Wheel bearing failure is like a loud, deep droning noise that starts to get progressively louder as speed increases, and is not altered by whether the car is accelarating, and is not changed by whether the engine is dropped out of gear and allowed to coast in neutral at idle - the droning noise is speed related only and not engine speed related. I have read reports of 2019 Yaris's being affected by failed rear wheel bearings, could have been a poor quality batch they used on later Mk3 models that fail more easily, especially with the poor state of the potholed roads in the UK. As I say - drive along at 50MPH so you hear the noise, then press the clutch down and let the engine speed fall to idle - if the noise still remains, it is the wheel bearings, but if the noise stops, its more to do with the engine or transmission. Check the oil level as well when the engine is cold - if the level is low, that could cause roughness in operation. How many miles has the car done and when was it last serviced?

Sorry having trouble picturing it... photo maybe? With my eBay-Special flip key, I had to wind/twist the spring one more turn and jam it in before it spang out to increase the spring tension.

We do have cones placed around here randomly, but they are always removed on a Sundae.

It might be better in Italy, but in the UK LPG is virtually dead so it's hard to recommend! Generally the hybrids are already so fuel efficient that you gain almost nothing with LPG conversion, even if the fuel is cheaper (Here there is almost no tax on it so it's almost half the cost of petrol, but mpg for LPG is significantly worse than petrol so the savings are a lot less than a half). I hear the petrol quality in Italy is not great so maybe LPG would be worth doing, esp. if you actually have a lot of specialists who know what they are doing rather than the mostly-trial-and-error types we seem to have here Personally I wouldn't, esp. as nobody has cracked the Toyota ECU (AFAIK!) so they'd need to use a piggy back ECU to alter the injection to adjust the fuelling amounts for LPG, and I'm not confident the long term reliability wouldn't be affected...

With the FXE engine, it does use the Atkinson cycle so the exhaust stays open longer on the compression stroke, which is both good and bad, bad because you don't have the same lubrication from the fuel with LPG

Thank you

thanks for the tip, much appreciated and its around like £100 - £200 max

Just bought some RainX. Going to try it on the camera and windows this weekend.

I didn't know this. What I did ask Toyota to do in the last 2 services, and each time they forgot to do it, was allow me to long press open on the fob to open all windows and sun roof, and close them all with long press on the fob. Unless there's a trick I can sort that for myself?

If it's a key type, insert key, hold brake pedal and twist key to position 3 to start it properly and put it in Ready mode (i.e. On/Started).

Still pretty reasonable. All the best and keep on trucking.

you mean I can't connect a wired car anymore in smart connect , so that's the worst since I use it more and it's convenient for me (i using google translate and the technical terms are not reading correctly)

No. The 2023 onwards cars have a digital dash that can be configured to show a rev counter.